As far as I know if you have AWS and AWA you only need boat speed through the
water
to get TWS and TWA which is shown by True on the i60 wind.
If you want to display the magnetic angle from where the wind is coming from,
such as
on an old ST50 multidisplay, then you need boat heading which
We did some more testing yesterday. Batteries fully charged by solar panel
would not start the engine with both buttons held down after 20 seconds of glow
plugs. Started fine with start button alone. Batteries read about 12.7v and
rapidly went down to 12.5 after 15 seconds of glow plugs. The
And in another place:
http://www.westerbeke.com/technical%20manual/200154_m30-m40-m50_technical_man.pdf
Dennis C.
On Thu, Aug 13, 2015 at 9:59 AM, Joel Aronson via CnC-List
cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote:
Here:
A friend just purchased a 1984 Bristol 38 with a Universal 40 engine and
wondered if anyone could provide a wiring diagram for the engine and
electrical control panel etc that he can use as a starter diagram to help
trace out his wiring. I have been following the recent discussions re glow
plugs
Here:
http://l-36.com/read_pdf.php?file=manuals11/200157_M12-M50_Operator_Man.pdftitle=Universal+Diesel++M+40+Operator%27s+Manual
Joel
On Thu, Aug 13, 2015 at 10:53 AM, John Russo via CnC-List
cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote:
A friend just purchased a 1984 Bristol 38 with a Universal 40
If your ST60 is giving you True readings then you have boat speed through the
water
wired in to the Seatalk bus. I would guess you have a through hull paddle wheel
connected to a Speed or TriData unit.
That is all you need for the new i series, though somewhere there will be the
need to convert
I know this has been discussed a bit before; but I had yet another “aneurysm”
to the original 1979 plastic hose coming out of my water heater while motoring
last weekend; which is pushing me into some drastic measures regarding my water
system.
Yes, it’s all still original; stained plastic
FYI, Depco Pump has lots of pump parts.
http://www.depcopump.com/MarineCatalog-111/MarineCatalog111.html
Dennis C.
On Thu, Aug 13, 2015 at 1:31 PM, svpegasu...@gmail.com
cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote:
Raw water pumps are all basically the same. I think it can be done on your
level, take your
My Beta 28 HP diesel, circa 2001, has developed a sea water leak on the engine
side/aft 'end' of the Jabasco (I think) pump which is driven directly by the
engine,
not by a belt. This engine has a primary coolant which is cooled by this water
pump circulating sea water thru a heat exchanger.
On Thu, Aug 13, 2015 at 11:24 AM, Josh Muckley via CnC-List
cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote:
You didn't mention a solenoid for the glo-plugs. Did i miss that?
Without a solenoid for the glo-plugs (and fuel pump) then just as the
second article stated (which is supported by your description of
Raw water pumps are all basically the same. I think it can be done on your
level, take your time and use your phones camera to document each step. When
taking it apart lay the parts out in order of disassembly. Reassemble inreverse
order. The parts break down is usually a good
Seems like something I would attempt.
You might find a selection of sockets and an extension to be a valuable
alternative to a press for getting the seals in and out.
Josh Muckley
S/V Sea Hawk
1989 CC 37+
Solomons, MD
On Aug 13, 2015 2:12 PM, Charlie Nelson via CnC-List
cnc-list@cnc-list.com
As a note, the wiring diagram shows the preheat solenoid on the engine side
of the harness connector. That leads me to believe it is attached to the
engine and is not at the panel. Further, the hot lead to the solenoid is a
#10 red wire from the hot connection on the starter solenoid. Follow
Patrick,
I have a similar system on my 35/3, but rather than having a slide stop I
have a metal plate (a gate) that (sort of) allows the slides to stay in the
slot while dropping to the boom. That allows me to use the horn. A rigger
can make a plate that screws on and eliminates the stop.
As
If the precombustion chambers get stuck again, I pull the fuel shutoff and
turn (bump) the engine over with the injectors out. It doesn't hurt to
have something to cushion the chamber as it is ejected from the port.
I think the aluminum sleeve is fine. I can't figure out how it would work
with
A gate is easy to build and fit to the mast to allow the slides to go all
the way down to the gooseneck. You might have to modify it a bit to fit
your track.
http://www.cncphotoalbum.com/doityourself/sailgate/sailgate.htm
Jim Watts
Paradigm Shift
CC 35 Mk III
Victoria, BC
On 13 August 2015 at
Heaving to is balance between the backwards thrust of the headsail, the
forward thrust of the mainsail and the rudder hard over keeping the whole
thing going. You're also balancing the rotation of the boat about the
keel. The headsail is trying to turn the boat off the wind and the
mainsail and
I’m not sure even the best mainsail tracks truly allow you to drop sail on a
broad reach in 25 kts anyway.
I've never heard of anyone reefing on a downwind run.
Fully recognizing the high cost of adding a Harken Batt car system, if one is
expecting to reef in all conditions including
Yes, but he didn't mention the existence of one. It sounds like it was
removed or bypassed and the start push button power moved up stream of the
glo-plug button.
Josh
On Aug 13, 2015 2:21 PM, Dennis C. via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com
wrote:
On Thu, Aug 13, 2015 at 11:24 AM, Josh Muckley
I am guessing the e7d is SeatalkNG but the i40 is Seatalk.
At least with my SPX/5 and firmware level there was no conversion between
Seatalk and SeatalkNG.
The converter was easy to install, though it would have been easier if I knew
I needed it and hadn't dressed and tied all the cabling first.
Reluctantly I’ve yielded to the logic and will be adding both a knot meter and
dedicated radar/chart plotter.
Fred - The Nobeltec radar product was interesting but I couldn’t get past the
dedicated wifi network (or two wifi networks)
Kudos to whoever first mentioned the need for the knot
Down wind in following seas with big waves can be a work out. I've never
heard of anyone reefing on a downwind run. You must have had a lot of
wind. When i sail downwind, wing and wing in big waves i always set a
preventer.
Most CCs don't have keels that make up a significant length of the
Patrick. There is no reason to heave to when reefing (assume you’re reefing
the main). Luff the main or head up so that it can luff, drop the halyard
(premarked is good) and then reef with either one or two lines. No mess, no
fuss, 30 seconds at most. It can also be a one person job with
I'm splitting this out from my reefing email because that one was getting
big (sorry!) and heaving to seems big enough to be a separate topic. I
searched the archive but didn't find too much on what configurations people
have found work best.
Two questions really -
- What sail config leads to a
Hi Josh,
Great input! Very clever idea for removing pre-combustion chamber as
well. I wish I had thought of it sooner.
Fair winds,
Gary
~~~_/)~~
On Thu, Aug 13, 2015 at 5:44 PM, Josh Muckley via CnC-List
cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote:
If the precombustion chambers get stuck
Thanks, good tips here.
I want to minimize going forward. So using the topping lift is probably not
something I'm going to do. Unless that were run back to the cockpit, but
that seems excessive and I'd need to add clutches.
I don't mind going forward in conditions with moderate or low waves, but
I have some questions on reefing. I know the basics, but want to get more
advanced so that it's easy even in challenging conditions. Especially
learning any handling characteristics that are specific to CC's.
Difficulty reefing was the one of the few sail handling issues we had on
our cruise of
As mentioned above, It is a combination of apparent wind and comfort level.
If you are a cruiser then I would consider heaving to then reefing the
main. The boat will be relatively flat and comfortable when you work on
setting the reef. I used to do this when single/short handed and it was
much
Boat's sail in the apparent wind. I don't know how an instrument could
figure out the true wind and direction without knowing the boat speed.
-- Forwarded message --
From: dwight veinot dwight...@gmail.com
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc:
Date: Thu, 13 Aug
Mike,
I think I read the same Ray documentation which seemed to show that one could
connect Seatalk and SeatalkNG devices
via the SPX-5 controller. I installed my i40 speed system with Seatalk
connector wired to the Seatalk ports on the SPX-5. It powers the i40 system,
and the speed display
Fawcetts may have the tube. If not, most riggers will.
South Shore Yachts for the bracket.
Joel
35/3
Annapolis
On Thu, Aug 13, 2015 at 4:01 PM, TOM VINCENT via CnC-List
cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote:
Not paying attention this past Monday I hit the piling at the fuel dock
with the stanchion
Well, I bought a CC 37+ a few weeks ago and have been having nothing but
trouble. It started with a fuel injector seal failure that allowed
combustion gases to escape into the cabin. Below the injectors are
pre-combustion chamber that where frozen in place requiring the cylinder
head to be
Patrick,
On Pegathy, also an LF38, I have never reefed the main. I have two reef points,
but I take it down, or just don't put it up. The boat sails very well under jib
alone, and I reef the roller furling jib in very high winds - sailed from
Martha's Vineyard to Natucket very comfortably in 40
Kenyon and Selden sell premade sail track gates. In theory all you need to do
is drill and tap a couple of holes in the mast. But the curvature of the CC
mast may not be exactly the same as the curvature of the premade gate – on my
25 I had to modify the curvature slightly to make the system I
Yeah, so i guess the boat may be moving forward sorta. Assuming you get
the boat stopped, then it will crab sideways. Since the crash back was
started on the other tack the crabbing action often times brings the boat
closer to the victim.
Josh
On Aug 13, 2015 9:25 PM, Josh Muckley
I reef hove to by preference. The boat sits pretty quietly with the main
slacked off and the jib backed, no problem at all and a much easier
platform to work from.
Jim Watts
Paradigm Shift
CC 35 Mk III
Victoria, BC
On 13 August 2015 at 20:07, Rick Brass via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com
wrote:
A couple of random thoughts
Yes, the boat is creeping forward while hove to.
No need to belittle 6-8' seas with short interval - nasty enough. Short
interval is far worse than much larger seas with room to spread out
Sea directly behind you - much more than the 6' you saw and you'd have
ARSS. I like that. I’ve always considered it to be just good seamanship, but
I’ve been accused of being excessive in my expectations of others from time to
time.
Rick Brass
Washington, NC
(ARSS = Anal Retentive Sailors Syndrome. I have a team working on developing a
purple
The boat is moving forward while hove-to I'll have to think on that one
for a while. There is a man-overboard maneuver that I call a crash back.
You basically turn up into the wind but don't release the headsail sheets.
Once the bow is through the wind turn the wheel back all the way and lock
Really, when you're hove to, you're pointing about 60 degrees off the wind and
your COG is about 90 degrees to the breeze. How hard you have the main sheeted
controls your angle to the breeze. I will roll most of the jib in big
breeze...leaving as little as 10 or 20% out.
Coming home to New
Dwight — do you also have an ST60 Speed in the system? If so (and I expect you
probably do…), that’s how your wind instrument can calculate TWA and TWS.
Otherwise you’re stuck with just AWA and AWS.
Fred Street -- Minneapolis
S/V Oceanis (1979 CC Landfall 38) -- Bayfield, WI
On Aug 13,
You didn't mention a solenoid for the glo-plugs. Did i miss that? Without
a solenoid for the glo-plugs (and fuel pump) then just as the second
article stated (which is supported by your description of the connector)
the panel is providing all 24amps of current which is the choke point for
the
Here is a link to the documents library for Westerbeke/Universal:
http://www.westerbeke.com/pages/documentlibrary.htm
You will find the wiring diagrams, parts book, operators manual, and service
information as PDF downloads on this page. Also look at the model history to
see the chronology
so my old Raymarine st 60 wind instrument gives me apparent wind speed and
angle and true wind speed and angle at the push of a button...I figured
those measurements were close enough to accuarte to be good enough for my
sailing needs...I don't think boat speed or heading or anything else is
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