I am thinking of getting 2 gallons of bottom paint currently on sale at
Defender/West Marine (Oydessy HD) that I may not need for 6 months to a year.
Does this stuff have a shelf life or use by date? I don't want to open it a
year from now and find it has solidified into a solid mass or
I strongly 'second' Dennis' views on the quality of the painter.
My boat came from the factory with a painted hull (1995) and it was a terrific
looking deep Navy Flag blue. Over the years (about 15) it had faded and needed
redone so I bit the bullet and she went into the paint shed (without
If possible with your mast, I would try and use cam cleats rather than jam
cleats. Unless the jam cleats are mounted somewhat off/'proud' of the mast, it
might be difficult to get the pole uphaul and downhaul lines (OK I know it is
only one line!) to stay in jam cleats.
If one or the other
I agree that netting would be relatively useless for an adult--I installed
similar netting I got from Defender/West Marine/? to prevent my toddler
grandkids (or dogs) from going under the lifelines and for that it was a good
solution.
OTOH, the version I bought (already made up in certain
Congratulations--another (unnecessary) example of matching the tool to the job!
Charlie Nelson
-Original Message-
From: Rob Hamlin via CnC-List
To: Stus-List
Cc: Della Barba, Joe ; Rob Hamlin
Sent: Fri, Mar 10, 2023 11:10 am
Subject: Stus-List Re: [EXTERNAL] Re: Motor Mounts
The
+1 for the jib sock which can be used on all headsails. Mine was ~$700 (from
ATN) but I had it 'customized' with the C red and white stripes x 2 against
the blue Sunbrella fabric background so that it matches the C stripes and
initials on the mainsail cover*. A bit more trouble to douse and
Additional comments below:
1. Depending on your mast 'stiffness' and how much you really can or do bend
it, you may be able to permanently remove the baby stay--my 36 has a 'bendy'
mast but the spreaders are 90 degrees to the boat centerline fore and aft. My
sailmaker had a look and decided
I have a Garmin 10 series instrument set on Water Phantom with 4 GMI 10
displays, GWS 10 wind transducer and a Garmin knot-meter/depth sounder all on a
NMEA 2000 backbone which I installed about 10 years ago (?).
This is connected to my Garmin 547(1?) chart plotter and this has worked fine.
Now
at the mark and with the pole up that is usually a S Show anyway so who
really cares where the lazy guy is at that point That boat is long gone from
here now and we don’t do dip pole on Persistence Mike Former crew on
Koobalibra C 115 Halifax From: Charlie Nelson via CnC-List
Sent
My tactician and I have a friendly disagreement on which winches to use when
doing dip pole jibes with lazy sheets and 'guys' on my masthead rig C 36
XL/kcb:
On Water Phantom, I have moved the initial primary winches (Lewmar ST 50s)
forward on the cockpit coaming and added another secondary
For about the same cost, you might consider shipping the wheel off to have it
coated in a tough plastic material--forgot the name its been so long!
It was a PITA shipping the wheel (UPS did it without insisting it be in a box)
and it is not as traditional as leather but it will never wear
/checkstay
tension. Sometimes I need to adjust halyard tension. Haven't sailed enough to
judge this setup.
Have you ever measured your prebend and mast rake?
Chuck
On 08/18/2022 12:42 PM Charlie Nelson via CnC-List
wrote:
Hello all;
My C 36
Hello all;
My C 36 XL/kcb was delivered with the runners/check-stays run to the aft rail
just about the location of the original headsail winches. They are rigged with
a 4:1 purchase and are released/tightened depending on what tack we are on.
Downwind they are unshackled and pulled forward.
I
Several years ago I replaced my headsail sleeve (Sunbrella material zippered
with a crossed double line 'snugging' system and C red, white and blue
colored bands (2) from ATN, the same company that sells the gale sail, etc.)
for about $800. This sleeve is used to cover whatever headsail is on
Thanks all--and to paraphrase Joe's remarks, this is exactly why I will never
go lithium on Water Phantom.
My boat use is for pleasure, not live aboard or extended cruising. Keeping up
with even the simplest systems, when there are many of them, is enough
engagement for me with the intricacies
arlie
-Original Message-
From: Andy Frame via CnC-List
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Andy Frame
Sent: Sat, May 28, 2022 4:26 pm
Subject: Stus-List Re: Antenna cable woes
Where is the cut?
On 5/28/2022 12:07 PM, Charlie Nelson via CnC-List wrote:
> The yard that removed my mast to
The yard that removed my mast to replace the rod rigging just cut the mast
antenna cable and so I either have to have another cable run or 'splice' the
current cable using one of the Sheakspeare fittings that claim to connect the
shield and the conductor without solder, etc.
Has any one on the
Thanks to all that replaced with solutions to this problem.
While I agree that adding any kind of 'splice' to the middle of such a cable is
not a good idea, for my type sailing (NC sounds, close off-shore PHRF racing
and boat deliveries) I decided to forego a complete cable replacement and try a
Ahoy all;
I had my 27 yr old rod rigging replaced this past summer. In the process, the
yard cut the antenna cable (and a few others) at the base of the mast. (The
antenna wire looks to be shielded coaxial cable of a relatively small
diameter--much closer to RG-51 size than RG-8 (I used to use
Its only a guess but I think it probably just goes into the lead within the
board or the fiberglass structure that has the lead contained in it. Rob Ball
probably knows for sure.
He did indicate to me once that the lead within the board was not really
engineered but that the boards were often
A local NC marina (which was destroyed in the storm that went through
Southport, NC 2 years ago--forgot the name) tried to do something similar to
its slip-holders.
The slip-holders were not required by their lease to move their boats if a
storm was pending and AFAIK, they did not have to pay
Thanks Stu--I should have figured that out myself--daaa!
Charlie
-Original Message-
From: Stu via CnC-List
To: Charlie Nelson via CnC-List
Cc: Stu
Sent: Sun, Feb 20, 2022 4:57 pm
Subject: Stus-List Re: Cutting Board Sale
Beeswax is usually available at a local apiary or a candle
I like the beeswax idea--natural, etc. but aside from the web, where does one
find beeswax?
Charlie Nelson
-Original Message-
From: jhnelson24 via CnC-List
To: Stus-List
Cc: Stu ; jhnelson24
Sent: Sun, Feb 20, 2022 2:39 pm
Subject: Stus-List Re: Cutting Board Sale
I've found this
I will order 2 with SV Water Phantom on both--thanks Stu!
Charlie Nelson
-Original Message-
From: Randy Stafford via CnC-List
To: Stus-List
Cc: Stu ; Randy Stafford
Sent: Mon, Jan 10, 2022 4:57 pm
Subject: Stus-List Re: New C Items
Awesome! Thank you Stu. I would take one with SV
I second Bob's comment.
Whisker or spinnaker poles exert lots of pressure on the fitting which gets
transferred to the mast/rig. If the ring/fitting lets go, the pole would shoot
across the deck and likely not stop until it hit something (human or otherwise)
or was stopped by the clew of the
or steel hulls
I just upped my liability insurance cover to $500K for an extra $88 a year with
no issues. Are you SURE about this? It took me about 10 minutes to get coverage
online, try going straight to their website. JoeCoquina From: Charlie
Nelson via CnC-List
Sent: Tuesday, October 12
a stated "cash value" in case of loss. Each
year the premium drops a little, (like $20) so I always renew.
Chuck S
On 09/27/2021 4:11 PM Charlie Nelson via CnC-List
wrote:
I too am considering moving to Progressive to save ~ $1200 per year.
I have
Thicker and wider butyl tape is usually available at RV supply stores like
Camping World. Its not as soft and sticky as the Beddit tape but I have used it
with good results.
I sometimes worry that the Beddit tape is a little 'thin' and often put 2
layers on--which has its own problems because
I am having my rod-rigging replaced currently in NC with the rod provided and
cut by Rigging Only or something similar in NE.
Total job is estimated at ~$8700 for everything, including shipping the old rod
to NE and new rod back, installation, tuning, etc. After 26 years of mostly NC
sound
I too am considering moving to Progressive to save ~ $1200 per year.
I have never had a claim except for towing and now I use Boat-US for
that--$250/year which I may drop.
Before I switch, has anyone had any experience with the claims
procedure/reimbursement from Progressive--good, bad or
I second having this repair at least looked at by a professional--perhaps a
surveyor who is independent of whoever might repair the damage. As Bob mentions
below--I doubt you want to mess with the forestay/bow attachment coming
'adrift'--that 'gravity storm' could lead to a real disaster.
My
Hey all--
I got my 'imitation' teak and holly via Defender (I think!) but used the
company's web site for info, etc. It came in a 54" width roll IIRC.
I used mine to re-cover my cabin sole where the original T was in sad shape
and impossible to sand/varnish/etc. back to nice looking!
The cabin
Your rigger is on the mark regarding adding bend to the mast (and stiffening it
to some degree since it attaches lower than the head stay). If it is left in
place and used, the mainsail should be cut appropriately so that when the stay
is on, the luff is pulled forward somewhat by it and the
Depending on the conditions you usually sail/race in, (higher winds (>15
knots), waves that are high enough to pound into, etc.) and your spreader
angles aft (if any) and mast stiffness, etc. you may find that you can either
remove it permanently (my solution) or just release it and connect it
Why not have it delivered by water--never done it but I know local delivery
crews who often deliver boats from Europe to US, US East Coast to Caribbean,
etc.
Charlie NelsonC 36 XL/kcb 1995
-Original Message-
From: Andrew Burton via CnC-List
To: Stus-List
Cc: Andrew Burton
Sent:
Hey all;
I have a set of Garmin GM10 instruments on Water Phantom including the masthead
wind direction/speed sensors along with sensors for the depth, speed thru the
water paddlewheel, etc. They are tied to a NEMA 2000 network backbone and to a
Garmin 542(?) chart plotter all about 8-10 years
Thanks to the list, I am learning more than I probably need to know about high
tech lines!
Anyhow, it seems these lines if properly sized and spliced, etc. can last a
long time and then when replaced, can be done with a competent, relatively easy
splice in such single braid line.
OTOH, a wire
Thanks Andy--
My terminology may be incorrect but what I call check stays are mounted at two
different heights on my mast and are separate from the rod backstay, which is
adjustable via a hydraulic cylinder. This being the case, I suppose some might
call them 'running backstays' but I already
We use them to 'help' support the mast--my trimmers know that these need to be
attended to during tacks.
OTOH, I am not sure they provide much stiffening since they pull mostly aft. My
rig has what I believe to be a 'bendy' mast and used to have a baby stay (since
removed) so I use them.
Don't
Hey Edd--I love the boat you are selling--unfortunately when I bought my 36
XL/kcb a new 37/40 kcb was out of my financial reach!!
Mine is a slightly smaller version of the 37/40 and has a very similar
centerboard arrangement. Since I do mostly club racing in the relatively thin
NC
I could not determine from the video what went wrong that the skipper required
rescue--I could see exhaust from Jenny on the video and the sails looked
fine--although the spreaders may have been damaged while she was tied up to the
BIG ship.
Anyone know the "...rest of the story..."?
Charlie
Hey everyone--especially those on this list whose boats are approaching 'old
age!'
My 1995 C 36 XL/kcb is now 26 years old and has been in brackish water for
her entire life--which has been either at the dock or club racing in the NC
sounds where the air is mostly light and the heat is often
Thanks a bunch Dennis--I think I get it and will get them switched.
I only have/use one jib halyard and I furl the headsail (do not drop it) going
downwind (I am a club racer after all !) so I live with whatever headsail I
raise/unfurl at the start for the entire race although I may partially
Mine and likely others have nuts welded(SS) or pressed (wood) into the external
handrail standoffs.
Thus a bolt/screw on the inside screws into these nuts--more or less!
I say this because depending on how well the cabin-top holes match the external
hand rail standoffs, it may not be possible to
I did the ICW returning my boat from CRW in 2019.(Charleston to Beaufort+)
While things may have changed for the better now, I found it not a matter of if
I run aground but when and how often:
Ran hard aground in the middle of the channel just north of the last bridge
before Charleston. (The
FWIW, a former director of maintenance at a large NC trucking company told me
the following many years ago.
They expected their fleet of large diesel powered tractor trailer trucks to go
for 400,000 miles when maintained properly. At that mileage, the truck was
pulled from the fleet, the engine
Hello listers--
My boat is entering her 26th year (delivered for use in 1995) and except for a
replaced forestay, has its original rod-rigging.
Local riggers, among others, believe that rod rigging should be replaced (or
re-headed?) at about 25 years of use. Since C finally bit the dust about 20
At the risk of having the terminology incorrect, I thought I'd share with the
list my discovery of how the teak interior hull liner was constructed on my
1995 C 36 XL/kcb.
I decided that the only way to find out was to carefully destroy a portion of
the remaining 'ceiling' that was not rotted
Just a short note to thanks all who chimed in on my head sail question.
The short story is that I decided to go with a 3Di Nordic composite sail
(so-called light/medium) that has a maximum AWS wind of ~ 16 knots. The light
wind equivalent has a maximum AWS wind of ~ 12 knots and I already have
I think you are correct if doing an entire deck, skid and non-skid.
In my case, my deck was pretty good when I needed to redo the non-skid and I
chose Kiwi for that. The yard extended the non-skid into the skid on all the
horizontal/mostly horizontal surfaces as they did the job. Thus there is
Hello all listers.
I have a hypothetical for the racers among you.
I need to replace my 3DL headsail--its mostly patches after ~ 5 years of club
racing locally. This is about my 3rd laminate style headsail---and my last!
I am probably going with the North 3D Nordac which has replaced the former
the
partially destroyed panel. I haven't found a 'seam' yet so the panel may extend
forward and be a single long panel--Murphy lurks!
Thanks for the suggestions,
Charlie NelsonWater Phantom
-Original Message-
From: Graham Collins via CnC-List
To: Charlie Nelson via CnC-List
Cc: Graham Collins
haven't found a 'seam' yet so the panel may extend
forward and be a single long panel--Murphy lurks!
Thanks for the suggestions,
Charlie NelsonWater Phantom
-Original Message-
From: Graham Collins via CnC-List
To: Charlie Nelson via CnC-List
Cc: Graham Collins
Sent: Mon, Feb 1, 2021 9:21 pm
Thanks all who have chimed in with thoughts on my 'ceiling' problem.
I spoke with Rob at South Shore today and he recalled that C sourced this
material to a local shop who has since gone out of business.
My next, probably last hope, is Noah Boatworks in Ontario per one of the
listers. They do
Thanks Rod--you obviously know your nautical terms, as do some others on this
list. Now a few more listers, including myself, know what to call this
'planking'.
With that out of the way, back to draining the swamp! To wit: some of this
'ceiling' in my V berth on my 1995 C 36 XL/kcb has been
I actually have what my former sail maker called a reaching kite which I think
could be similar to your Single Luff Spinnaker although it might just be a
smaller symmetric kite--I need to have a close look at it. The sail maker never
referred to it as an A-kite.
My usual masthead kite is PHRF
Locally we have had some success getting 'cruisers' out by running distance
races with pursuit starts (based on PHRFs) just prior to (or after) our regular
spin and non-spin fleet racing starts. This has increased the number of boats
racing by about 50%.
All kinds of cruisers come out with
down wind, but as soon as you
comeup a little, the advantages are obvious. Bill Coleman Entrada, Erie
On Thu, Jan 28, 2021, 10:38 PM Charlie Nelson via CnC-List
wrote:
I've been following this discussion with interest since we areoften either
short handed (or short handed where
Charlie Nelson via CnC-List
wrote:
I've been following this discussion with interest since we are often either
short handed (or short handed where it counts!) as in doing the foredeck dance
with a symmetrical kite on my 36'er. All of our local club races are W-L.
My question is can I
.
That was a fun day JoeCoquina From: Charlie Nelson via CnC-List
Sent: Friday, January 29, 2021 10:53 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: cenel...@aol.com
Subject: [EXTERNAL] Stus-List Re: Furler question The perfect solution to the
problem Joe! Depending on the difference between 'too high and too low
The perfect solution to the problem Joe!
Depending on the difference between 'too high and too low', finding the sweet
spot could be a chore and would likely require different shackle lengths at the
deck level for different sails.
A proper restrainer allows more 'slop' in the effective luff
I've been following this discussion with interest since we are often either
short handed (or short handed where it counts!) as in doing the foredeck dance
with a symmetrical kite on my 36'er. All of our local club races are W-L.
My question is can I be competitive in the spin fleet with an A3(or
Years ago I suffered from problems with my Harken fuller until I learned about
the problem with the angle between the halyard exit point from the mast sheave
and the top of the fuller drum.
The first fix was the Harken halyard restrainer--which increased this angle so
that the angle between the
+2 on Bed-It. It is unbelievably 'sticky' and 'stretchy'.
OTOH, I wish it came in an 1/8" thickness. It sometimes requires that you use 2
layers IMHO (depending on your skills or how uneven the surface you are working
on) and between itsstickiness and stretchiness you can end up with the stuff
I had the faux teak flooring installed on my screw-in 1995 C 36 XL/kcb sole.
Between the cost of the flooring (got it from Defender) and the install, it was
about $2k, which was what it cost me the 1st time I replaced it with all new
stuff by a boatyard about 10 years ago.
I could not see the
I doubt any vinyl plank flooring exposed to the NC sun would last more than 1
season--OTOH for those who hardly ever see their shadow, maybe not!!
Charlie NelsonGreenville, NC
-Original Message-
From: Kevin Driscoll via CnC-List
To: Stus-List
Cc: Kevin Driscoll
Sent: Mon, Jan 25,
Thanks--I had seen this term somewhere in my searching but had forgotten it.
Another nautical term is always a good thing!
Charlie
-Original Message-
From: dukatolla--- via CnC-List
To: Charlie Nelson via CnC-List
Cc: dukato...@hotmail.com
Sent: Sun, Jan 24, 2021 1:22 pm
Subject
I think the correct nautical term is 'ceiling" but here is my issue.
My 1995 C cabin walls (interior) are covered behind the cabinetry or in the
cubbies with what looks like teak or teak looking plywood pieces ~ 1/8-1/4"
thick which have grooves cut in them about 1 7/8" apart running fore and
I be very careful with the bag of anchor chain as a counter weight.
Remember the joke about the bricklayer who did something similar getting bricks
up to the roof and getting mixed up about the load, his own weight, etc. !!
Charlie Nelson
-Original Message-
From: CHARLES SCHEAFFER
+1 on Chuck's thoughts.
You will add many sources of leaks with the tracks--been there and done that.
I would try a ring solution first--no holes required. If it doesn't work like
you prefer, then get out the drill and butyl tape!
Charlie NelsonWater Phantom1995 C XL/kcb
-Original
+1 on drilling out the screws and remounting the bracket slightly up or down
from its original position--why go to all the trouble of using the old holes?
IMHO, we DIYers (myself included!) spend way too much time/money/energy trying
to save/rejuvenate/repair something that is
1st, of course, you must find the source of the leak which may take 2 sets of
eyes--inside and out.
Just a guess but I would check the base of the companionway 'slides' on that
side as the source of the leak--may take time, lots of water with hatch closed,
etc. as it is when you leave the
Thanks to all who replied with their experiences with bottom painting--much
food for thought!
Some info not previously supplied:
Yes, Petit Vivd is a hard ablative (although some articles classify it as
hard--see Practical Sailor for instance)--in fact I went to it from VC-17
primarily because
My boat has a house bank and a starting battery with an ACR controller so that
the ‘banks’ are ‘equalized’ when a charging source is available—shore power or
engine alternator.
I added a solar panel to maintain the batteries without the hazards of leaving
the boat on shore power charging when I
OK--my 5 yr old 3Di North 155 head sail is almost dead--especially after a tear
along the foot during a race on Halloween.
I think I want to go with a non-laminate sail (their life locally seems to be
around 5 years in my use of them) and since I mostly club-race and maybe CRW, I
am not going
My 25 year old topside/deck is looking pretty tired—some fiberglass is showing
through in places.
The Kiwi non-skid applied about 6 years ago is fine and is easily touched up.
I am thinking of doing the non-non-skid with a brush and tip method (?) using a
1 part paint, taping the non-skid off.
Hopefully the damage to your boat and dock won’t be too extensive.
Our club requires boats over about 24 ft to vacate their slip when a hurricane
warning is issued for the county. Most anchor in a nearby fairly wide and deep
(in NC deep is 7 ft or more!) creek that our marina abuts. Some get
FWIW, my 3 burner F-10 only has a single lock on the right side.
2 is probably better than 1 but I never missed a left side lock—the boat was
delivered with only the right lock.
I rarely use the stove and never when underway—in this situation,1 lock is
plenty—although as a lefty, it would have
Suggest you determine if you can shift transmission at the transmission
successfully. If so and it stays in gear w/o issues, replace cable assy.
If not and trans fluid level is normal and ‘clean’, you likely need new trans.
When my trans recently died, it stuck in gear as I was docking, partially
Another reason is likely that the ICW and most of the Southeastern coast is
off-limits to an 8 ft. draft.
Another is a 35 year old engine.
Changing out either (let alone both) would likely cost 25% of the asking
price--50% for both!
Charlie Nelson1995 C 36 XL/kcbWater PhantomNew Bern, NC
My only suggestion is to forget about polishing the fuel--lots of trouble for
dubious benefit. I would empty the tank and manually clean (or possibly
replace) depending on the condition.
The original tank on my 1995 model developed a leak on a trip to CRW that was
likely a result of it
Yes, they are practically identical to that model. My concern with their
replacement is that they fit the existing 'hole' in the head and galley.
Per some research on the web, this type of faucet appears to have a single hole
for the water lines which I want to maintain. Just getting the old
My 1995 36 has ‘triangular’ faucets for the galley and head sinks. These have
the faucet handles joining the spigot at about a 45 degree angle.
I’d like to replace them in plastic as they are showing their 25 year age with
pitting, fading etc.
I am reluctant to buy anything but a ‘triangular’
My 1995 36 XL was delivered with a hydraulic backstay which I have used
regularly with one trip to the local hydraulic shop to replace the seals
(~$250). Of course, the stern steps were likely designed to withstand the
loading this can produce--if not it was over-designed since I have never had
I moved my boat to a nearby anchorage to avoid having to drive to the marina to
do the same for every storm coming this August/September. (My club requires
that boats be out of their slips when a hurricane warning is issued for our
county in NC).
Since I don't have solar/wind, at anchor there
My 36 XL came with a baby-stay and an adjustable track on the foredeck. It also
had the rod connection to the hull or mast--forgot which since it has now been
removed (when I removed the track) since it was a PITA for tacks with a large
genoa.
However, even with the track, as you pump up the
Halcyonwww.flirtingwithfire.net
On Aug 6, 2020, at 10:18 AM, Charlie Nelson via CnC-List
wrote:
Most likely the drums are worn smooth and do not provide enough friction to
hold the line.
I took all my drums to a local machine shop and they ‘re-knurled’ all of them
for $30 each. You can even
Most likely the drums are worn smooth and do not provide enough friction to
hold the line.
I took all my drums to a local machine shop and they ‘re-knurled’ all of them
for $30 each. You can even choose the knurl ‘pattern’—simple vertical, diamond,
etc.
Just be careful that the shop is not too
Water Phantom is at anchor (actually 2!) out in the creek near her slip at
Blackbeard Sailing Club near New Bern, NC.
Our club requires ‘big’ boats to vacate our slips when a hurricane warning is
issued locally. Usually she is on the hard for bottom work during hurricane
season but not this
1st, thanks to the list members for the replies re my questions on jump
starting a battery in a house and start battery bank set-up with an ACR. I
think I have that straight!
While I think I know the answer to the following question, I am pretty sure
that others on the list know the answer!
I
I had a similar problem with the lift pump on my Beta 28. The tank location
compared to the lift capability of the Beta was marginal, even tho the lift
pump was working ‘fine’.
My diesel mechanic recommended bypassing the mechanical lift pump and using an
electric pump. Installed it with a
to tension.
Alan Bergen35 Mk III ThirstyRose City YCPortland, OR
On Mon, Jul 20, 2020 at 7:09 PM Charlie Nelson via CnC-List
wrote:
If draft is an issue (or might be a future issue depending on your plans for
cruising, etc.) I would consider the cb model.
I have a 36 XL/kcb (your 40 ft C is actually
Hello all;
I added a 19" TV to my boat anticipating some cruising in the future. It fits
nicely on the port side forward bulkhead above the settee facing aft. I even
found an ac outlet nearby for power.
I have been advised by locals who have TVs aboard to go with a omni directional
antenna,
If draft is an issue (or might be a future issue depending on your plans for
cruising, etc.) I would consider the cb model.
I have a 36 XL/kcb (your 40 ft C is actually a kcb since the cb retracts into
a serious keel, unlike some cb boats that have boards only or very small keels)
since I sail
Thanks to all who responded regarding my question about using a 'jump start'
battery to get my diesel started in my ACR 2 battery bank battery set-up
(start(1) and house batteries(2).
Per the responders , the 'jump start' battery should be connected to the 'dead'
starter battery AND the ACR can
Just under the wire--will be 76 in November.
Charlie NelsonWater Phantom36 XL/kcbGreenville, NC
-Original Message-
From: Donald Kern via CnC-List
To: detroito91 via CnC-List
Cc: Donald Kern
Sent: Wed, Jul 15, 2020 12:29 am
Subject: Re: Stus-List 2020 C Rendezvous: Cancel due to COVI
Following suggestions on this list, I purchased a NOCO Lithium battery 'jump
starter' to have on board if/when I might need to jump my starting battery.
Cheaper and lighter than another 12 volt battery and having done this many
times in various cars I have owned over the years, it is no big
My boom tent is similar and I found that using the extension poles sold at
Lowes/etc. (for reaching high lightbulbs for replacement) collapse to
reasonable lengths at much lower cost than a 'marine' equivalent.
Charlie Nelson
-Original Message-
From: Shawn Wright via CnC-List
To:
Replace with a wire gate and a pelican hook on one end, eye fitting on other?
Keep ladder outside gate.
Charlie NelsonWater Phantom1995 C 36XL/kcb
-Original Message-
From: Andrew Means via CnC-List
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Andrew Means
Sent: Fri, Jul 10, 2020 2:35 pm
Subject:
A word to the wise re lonseal--I was thinking of this as a DIY project
initially. As I got further into the manuals about how to use the glue they
recommended, I bailed and had a yard do it.
Although lonseal claims you can use epoxy/West System, their own glue has a
maximum drying time of 30
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