tated here numerous times already … the smile is not a
> problem at all if the bolts are torqued
>
>
>
> Mike
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> *From:* CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] *On Behalf Of *Ryan
> Doyle via CnC-List
> *Sent:* Monday, December 07, 2015 7:29
Hi all,
I'm brand new to the list here and I'm not quite sure how this list works
yet... But I'm excited to join because I'm the proud new owner of a 1976
C 30 mki.
My boat is hauled for the winter and is exhibiting the much-talked-about
C "smile" at the front of the keel, but there is also a
<joe.della.ba...@ssa.gov>
wrote:
> All I did on my boat was get a big socket wrench and tighten the bolts.
>
> Others will chip in soon with more involved repairs.
>
>
>
> Joe
>
> Coquina
>
> C 35 MK I
>
>
>
> *From:* CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun..
the bolts.
>
> Others will chip in soon with more involved repairs.
>
>
>
> Joe
>
> Coquina
>
> C 35 MK I
>
>
>
> *From:* CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] *On Behalf Of *Ryan
> Doyle via CnC-List
> *Sent:* Monday, December 07, 2015 4:10 PM
&g
rs.
>
>
>
> Joe
>
> Coquina
>
> C 35 MK I
>
>
>
> *From:* CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] *On Behalf Of *Ryan
> Doyle via CnC-List
> *Sent:* Monday, December 07, 2015 4:10 PM
> *To:* cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> *Cc:* Ryan Doyle
> *Subject:* Stus-
oxy Works magazine published by West Systems.
>
> https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B8pEh5lnvP1yV1JEN3YxQk1RbHc/view?usp=docslist_api
>
> Josh Muckley
> S/V Sea Hawk
> 1989 C 37+
> Solomons, MD
>
>> On Dec 7, 2015 4:11 PM, "Ryan Doyle via CnC-List" <cnc-l
Hey all,
I'm looking for input on a good blower installation on my 1976 C 30 mki.
I'm almost through rewiring my entire boat and I'm up to replacing the
blower. I removed the the old unit because the fan motor was dead.
Judging by the look of it, it may have been original.
The flexible hoses
Wood... Of course! Thanks Gary. That will look far better than any
plastic cover.
Regarding the difference between my boat and yours - a previous owner
did an extensive interior renovation on my boat. They also swapped
out the portlights and put in large Lexan pieces - as you can see the
e Panduit,
> Hubbell, Wiremold. They each have a range of sizes, plastic, metal,
> etc. Easy to work with, procure.
>
>
>
> Dave
>
>
>
>
>
> From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Ryan
> Doyle via CnC-List
>
> Sent: T
Hey all,
I'm finishing a complete rewire of my 1976 C 30 mki. I've installed all
new low-draw LED lighting in the cabin. In most places the new wires are
easy to conceal as I'm just routing them where the old wires were.
However, in the head and in the V berth running the new wire between the
Joel,
I wouldn't repaint an old panel. I'd either leave it or replace it...
replacing was an easy decision for me as I'm rewiring the entire boat
ground-up. I just installed a great little Blue Sea Systems panel on my
boat in place of the original C unit. It was $232 from Defender (
Of course... I did have to cut out the bulkhead to accommodate it's larger
size.
On Tue, Jan 12, 2016 at 12:20 PM, Ryan Doyle wrote:
> Joel,
>
> I wouldn't repaint an old panel. I'd either leave it or replace it...
> replacing was an easy decision for me as I'm rewiring
Marek and James,
Thanks guys. Right. I always forget it's about fusing for the wire gauge and
length. I have a 4' run of 4 gauge wire from each batt to the main switch,
then a 5' foot run of 4 gauge to the starter motor on the A4.
However now that I look at the BlueSea systems chart for
Cool. Thanks James. That's good news considering I already have 4 ga wires.
Re: Stus-List Battery Terminal Fuses
Message-ID:
Content-Type: text/plain; format=flowed; charset="iso-8859-1";
reply-type=original
Ryan,
The experts at Moyer recommend 4 ga
Hey Dave,
Thanks! I'm ball parking, but I'd say this is approximately how long each
portion took.
1.5 hrs to tape off the boat
4 hrs to sand initially with 150 grit
2 hrs to prime
(New day)
2 hrs to sand primer
1.5 hrs to prime
(New day)
2 hrs to sand primer again
2 hrs for first finish
Hey guys,
My 1976 30mki did not come with fuses at the battery terminals and I would like
to add them.
I have a simple system with two batteries - one starting and one house.
My house loads if I'm running the autopilot and I have every blower and fan and
led light on and add up to 12.3 amps.
Hey all,
I've got the day off, so I wanted to post my experience as a first-time
boat painter repainting the topsides of my 1976 C 30 with Interlux
Brightside and Interlux Prekote. I made some small, but dumb mistakes
during this process. I'm sure the experts will have a little laugh at my
Stus-List My Experience and Mistakes WithInterlux
>Brightside/Interlux Prekote
> Message-ID: <03a801d1b7b7$4d3e9420$e7bbbc60$@cox.net>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"
>
> Ryan,
>
>
>
> An outstanding job. Excellent gloss. Thanks
Oops. Sorry guys. Replied with the digest again.
--
Hi Bettina,
Thanks! Did you do kiwi grip for the non skid sections and Brightside on the
rest of your deck and cabin top?
Ryan
Sent from my iPhone
___
This list is supported by the generous
eak somewhere along there, but
>> can't bring ourselves to even think about resetting it . Good news, after
>> three days of torrential rains, no leaks whatsoever, bad news, the stuff
>> somehow reacts with the interlux aka the paint didn't dry (we left the caulk
&g
Hey listers,
After working on her all winter (repaint, total re-wire, rigging and
interior spruce ups), I splashed my new-to-me 1976 30mki for the first time
a couple weeks ago in Brooklyn. This past weekend we sailed from Brooklyn,
outside and back in through the Manasquan inlet and into the
om>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"
>
> Check out the yacht clubs in your area. Possibly one or two in your
> marina. Not all clubs are the large, rich snooty kinds. You'll get to meet
> racers who can give you advice. Also, lots of social activities.
>
Tom, thanks so much. The Raritan bay could be a nice option. Keeping her
and racing on Raritan Bay is probably out of the cards for us this year,
but maybe that's the spot to keep her next year - especially because
there's nice deep water there. If that's what we decide to do, I'll
definitely
Thanks Gary and Marek,
Gary, do you have any photos of your installation by any chance? If so, I'd
love to check out how it's rigged. Does your sheet attach to the end of the
boom in the same place? Do you have a bimini with this setup?
Thanks again guys. Always easy to find help here.
sn't shade the entire
> cockpit but it's enough for the helmsman and definitely makes a difference...
>
> https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B87tJUU30YcDZVpBUTQweTFqeTQ/view?usp=sharing
>
> Cheers,
> Aaron R.
> Annapolis, MD
> Admiral Maggie
> 79, 30-1
> ________
Hey guys,
After some research and having the helpful folks at Genco Marine look at
photos of my boat, I've come to the conclusion that it's nearly impossible
to shade my cockpit while under sail unless I move my traveler. I have a
1976 30mki with a single back stay and a tiller. The traveler is
ir over 10 years ago and have had no probems since. I did
> use butyl under the new covers to get a good seal.
>
> Gary Nylander
> 30-1
> Maryland
>
> -Original Message-----
> From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Ryan
> Doyle via CnC-List
&
Hi Richard,
We do mostly day sailing from up on the Hudson down the NJ coast - no serious
cruising or offshore stuff. FWIW... I love my little Lowrance unit. I was
originally drawn to the Lowrance name because my grandfather had Lowrance
navigation equipment in his old Piper Dakota.
You
Very cool. Thanks for sharing... I'd be curious to how they did the
shower.
On Sun, Feb 7, 2016 at 4:36 PM, Aaron Rouhi via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
> I was organizing papers and came across the original Standard and Optional
> Equipment list for my C 30. Interesting to read:
>
Wow! I'm very jealous. Congrats Joel!
On Fri, Feb 5, 2016 at 4:44 PM, Robert Boyer via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
> I've known several cruisers with a Hylas 44--great boats! Congrats,
> Joel!!!
>
> Bob
>
> Sent from my iPhone, Bob Boyer
>
> On Feb 5, 2016, at 4:35 PM, Josh
Touching on what Bill just said… I'm generally a fan of fixing things on
the boat rather than replacing them, but my exception is electronics. The
technology advances and the prices come down so fast that it's normally
smarter to just replace.
On Fri, Feb 5, 2016 at 11:10 AM, Bill Bina - gmail
Hey Randy,
I have 30-1 hull number 377. She's a 1976 model year built in 12/75.
I too have a slider between the head and the salon, but nothing between the
V-berth and the head. I'd imagine it would have to be a swing door and it
would probably be a tight fit.
I'm on the train, so I cant
Hey everyone,
Thank you for the responses last week about my tiller - which I went out to
observe/fix today and then got distracted by another issue - c'est la vie.
Sometimes after heavy precipitation I find engine coolant in my bilge.
This ONLY happens after heavy precip - like last week here
I forgot to give the details on my boat - She's a 1976 30 mki and she's
winterized and up on stands.
On Fri, Jan 29, 2016 at 12:40 PM, Ryan Doyle wrote:
> Hey everyone,
>
> Thank you for the responses last week about my tiller - which I went out
> to observe/fix today and
Hey everyone,
Just figured I'd share these. I was doing a bit of research into my boat's
history and did a Google Street view search for the site of the old
Niagara-On-The-Lake C factory where many of our boats were built. This
appears to be it. A little sad looking these days. The official
used
> a lot of polyester resin and solvents at that place
> Dwight Veinot
> C 35 MKII, Alianna
> Head of St. Margaret's Bay, NS
> d.ve...@bellaliant.net
>
>
>
> On Mon, Feb 1, 2016 at 3:45 PM, Ryan Doyle via CnC-List
> <cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
> > Hey everyo
When the price of oil goes up, EVERYTHING costs more
> and only the very wealthy can afford luxury goods such as new sailing and
> motor yachts.
>
> Chuck Gilchrest
> Half Magic
> 1975 25 Mk1
>
> S/V Orion (for now)
> 1983 35 Landfall
> Padanaram, MA
>
>
&g
Hah! Thanks for the reply. But I have the original gas motor, so no
diesel on board. It's definitely engine coolant - has the unmistakable
smell.
On Fri, Jan 29, 2016 at 6:20 PM, Josh Muckley via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
> This might be out on a limb but on the topic of "How
After rain recently I noticed a little rust-colored water leaking out from
behind my chainplate on the port bulkhead on the interior. The chainplates
themselves look shiny and new, but I'm afraid some water ingress has rusted
some of the bolts through the bulkhead.
I resealed where both
gt; had a 2 ft square area around the chain plates re done . Access to the chain
> plates is really easy . You can reach the fasteners from the lockers on each
> side
>
> Sent from Joe Bognar
>
>
>> On Feb 3, 2016, at 8:47 PM, Ryan Doyle via CnC-List <cnc-list@cnc-l
Yes. By "fresh water cooled" I mean my Atomic 4 has a closed loop cooling
system with a heat exchanger circulating a mixture of water and antifreeze
(just like a car). It then goes through a heat exchanger that dissipates the
engine heat into seawater that's pumped into the exchanger. I
Thanks very much. Yes it's a fresh water-cooled A4. Joseph, I am going to
check the sump near the mast step too, but based on where it's pooling I think
it's coming from the bilge just forward of the motor under the cabin sole - the
hardest spot to reach.
John, if that turns out not to be
Also good ideas. Thanks. You guys rock.
Sent from my iPhone
> On Jan 30, 2016, at 12:39, robert via CnC-List wrote:
>
> For several winters, I was loosing approx. a cup of engine
> antifreeze..only in the winter, not during the sailing season.
>
> I placed white
Replying to my own thread again here.. I've read a few times online that
people sometimes add antifreeze to a wet bilge during the winter. Now I'm
wondering if there is some residual antifreeze left in the aft portion of
my bilge from the previous owner (I bought the boat in Oct), and it's being
Joe and Joel - thank you guys. Apologies, I was on "digest mode", so I
didn't see your responses until now. I know it's engine coolant because as
Joe said - "nothing else on the boat looks like it". Joel, I have a
feeling you're right about the source. I think there was coolant in the
aft part
ist <cnc-list@cnc-list.com>
> wrote:
>
> I generally leave RV or plumbing antifreeze in the bilge, but I'm in frozen
> Ottawa.
> From: Ryan Doyle via CnC-List
> Sent: 2016-01-29 2:00 PM
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> Cc: Ryan Doyle
> Subject: Re: Stus-List Myste
Hey everyone,
Wondering if anyone here has installed a solenoid valve to cut off fuel
flow when the ignition is turned off for their Atomic 4. My fuel tank has
the standard hand twist valve at the top of the tank, but for additional
safety I was thinking about adding a solenoid valve that
;
>
> *From:* CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] *On Behalf Of *Ryan
> Doyle via CnC-List
> *Sent:* Tuesday, February 23, 2016 15:23
> *To:* cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> *Cc:* Ryan Doyle
> *Subject:* Stus-List Ignition Switch Fuel Solenoid Valve
>
>
>
> Hey e
I
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Ryan
>> Doyle via CnC-List
>> Sent: Tuesday, February 23, 2016 15:23
>> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
>> Cc: Ryan Doyle
>> Subject: Stus-Li
let the engine run the fuel out of
> the carb when I am done for the day. ABYC/USCG regs want a manual
> activation or bypass if you install one of these.
>
> Joe
>
> Coquina
>
> C 35 MK I
>
>
>
>
>
> *From:* CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] *On Be
Hello everyone,
Just curious if anyone has experience tightening a loose tiller on a 30 mki or
similar boat. My tiller steers the boat just fine, but there is some some
noticeable play in it from side to side.
Not sure if this is helpful, but there is a photo of my tiller where it meets
> Hello everyone,
> Sorry for the duplicate post if the last one went through! Just curious if
> anyone has experience tightening a loose tiller on a 30 mki or similar boat.
> My tiller steers the boat just fine, but there is some some noticeable play
> in it from side to side.
>
> Not
Hi Josh,
Thanks very much. My apologies.. I should have been clearer in my description
of the issue. The play is certainly not in the attachment of the wood tiller
to the metal plates or the stock head (option 1 or 2). That would have been
too easy. It is below that in what I think is (4)
Thanks to everyone for the responses re my tiller. And thank you Stu for
checking in. All is well here, except I haven't been able to get out to my
boat to try anyone's suggestions! The roads here in Brooklyn are a mess.
Sent from my iPhone
___
Thanks for the heads-up Steve. I've been waiting for these to come back on
sale at WM. I just bought two.
___
Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of
page at:
Hey John,
I just did a complete rewiring of Nobody's Bargain and added a Blue Sea panel
and an inverter. However, I'm DC only so I don't have an answer to your
specific question. I did just want to tell you where I got the best deal on
marine DC connectors and heat shrink:
my RIB.
>
> Anyone try it?
>
> David F. Risch
> 1981 40-2
> (401) 419-4650 (cell)
>
>
> Date: Wed, 6 Apr 2016 13:23:02 -0400
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> Subject: Re: Stus-List Solar charger selector switch
> From: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> CC: stevanpla...@gm
Whoops! ... sorry about the digest subject line reply.
On Wed, Apr 6, 2016 at 3:01 PM, Ryan Doyle wrote:
> Thanks Fred and everyone else who responded. Yeah, I could just get
> another panel. I was trying to save some $$.
>
> I found a DPDT switch I think will work at
Hey everyone,
I am in the home stretch of re-wiring my entire boat. The wiring was in
frightening shape when I bought it back in October - much of it was
corroded and probably original, and there were numerous "bad fixes" that I
didn't like the looks of. So, I ripped it all out and started anew
Thanks guys for the educated guesses and thanks Joe for the insight and advice.
Some sort of lightning arrest system was my first guess, but I thought it was
odd that the mast wasn't connected to it... Which would be essential for a
lightning system. I hadn't considered an old short wave or
Thanks Fred,
I know that 60hz hum and its harmonic brethren all too well - I used to be
in a very loud rock band that used excessive gain to cover up terrible
guitar playing...
Regarding putting in a bus bar instead of connecting everything to the
engine: For the sake of brevity I didn't
Hey everyone,
I'm re-wiring my mast as part of a total re-wire. I was using the old
all-round light wiring to pull my new all-round light wiring through when the
old wiring broke because it was so deteriorated.
I now have no way - or so it seems - to get my new through the mast without
using
Thanks guys. Never used a fish tape before, so didn't know if that was the
right tool. Just got one at Home Depot.
Thanks again.
Ryan
___
This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like
what we do, please help us pay
Hey everyone,
I have a small 6 watt Ganz solar panel which does a very nice job of
keeping my starter battery and my house battery topped up. The only
trouble is, when I want to switch which battery I'm charging, I have to
open the locker, open the battery box, disconnect the + and - connectors
Tried to tighten my keel bolts to spec today. Can't get any of them to
move... at all. Can't tighten, can't loosen. I wouldn't call myself a
super strong guy, but I'm 6', 175lbs. and I've certainly loosened a few
bolts in my lifetime. These won't budge. Should I just leave them
alone? Or
Thanks Joe. When you say "S-H", is that the unit branded as Hawkeye?
Like this one?
http://www.amazon.com/Norcross-Hawkeye-D10D-Depth-Sounder/dp/B000JEOEE0
___
Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including
Hey all,
Just wanted to get your opinions on whether it's necessary to do a bottom
paint job on my boat before launch this year. I just bought the boat in
October, so I'm not sure the last time it was done. I'd rather spend the
money on some other things this season, but if it's a must, I'll do
Forgot to say - I sail New York City to NJ. Boat will spend the summer in
salt water and will be hauled in the fall.
On Tue, Mar 1, 2016 at 9:19 PM, Ryan Doyle wrote:
> Hey all,
>
> Just wanted to get your opinions on whether it's necessary to do a bottom
> paint job on
atever bottom paint is there and a foam
> brush - just smooth the rough edges out and cover them. It appears to be
> something thick...??..
>
> Gary
>
> -Original Message-
> From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Ryan
> Doyle via Cn
o it.
>>>
>>> Any thoughts are appreciated.
>>>
>>> Photos at the links below:
>>>
>>>
>>> https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B8g8d5sXYVWGdDZLWU1QZF9yWHYyTDRTbTYxbXczOHJCWjdv/view?usp=sharing
>>>
>>>
>>> h
Thanks everyone for the responses. I am a diver, so I'm more than happy to
take a dive under the boat mid-summer to check things out and do some cleaning
if needed. I'm probably going to leave it as is for now and buy a much-needed
new depth finder.
Francois - good call on touching up with
Thank you guys. Appreciate the help. Sounds like I need to hit Amazon for
a torque multiplier and a beefier wrench if I'm going to do this. I was
wondering how the heck I was going to get to 350 ft lbs - that's more
torque than the chevy 350 I had in my old truck. I started to imagine
Hey listers,
I have been getting a tiny bit of coolant in the bilge for a while now and
I finally found it's source. The Oberdorfer water pump on the back of my
A4 is leaking very slowly, but I can't see exactly where.
I don't think it's any of the hose connections - although I may replace the
Sounds like it's time to drain the system, remove it, and rebuilt it with
the $50 Moyer kit. Thanks guys. Helpful as usual.
___
This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like
what we do, please help us pay for our costs
fiberglass? Another consideration would be that
> you don't want to create areas where water pools and can't drain out.
>
> Steve Thomas
> C MKIII
> C MKI
>
>
> Ryan Doyle via CnC-List <cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
> Hey everyone,
>
> I've been deal
Hey Joseph,
Thanks. The mast step is not soft. It's the areas of the cabin sole
several inches aft of the step and just next to either side of the
bilge access panel.
*Joseph Bognar* jbognar at sympatico.ca
Hey guys,
Someone on here was nice enough to the list last time these came on sale and I
bought two. They're on sale again. Normally $199, now $129.
http://www.westmarine.com/buy/west-marine--offshore-sail-automatic-inflatable-life-jacket-with-harness--14897433?cm_mmc=EM-_-Promo-_-N/A-_-N/A
Hey everyone,
I've been dealing with some flexing parts of my cabin sole around the bilge
access panel in my 1976 C 30. I've put some wood shims between the cabin
sole and the hull fiberglass down there and they help a bit, but don't fix the
problem.
Because of the odd shape of the space
Hey guys,
Anyone here buy lifeline netting recently? I'm looking at 24" netting from
Seamar Sports Netting - www.seamarnets.com. It's significantly cheaper
than West Marine and the other suppliers I've found.
Anyone have experience with this stuff?
Thanks,
Ryan
Nobody's Bargain
1976 C 30mki
8 (Hull # 230)
> Annapolis, MD (presently in Baltimore)
>
> On May 12, 2016, at 5:40 PM, Ryan Doyle via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
> Hey guys,
>
> Anyone here buy lifeline netting recently? I'm looking at 24" netting
> from Seamar Sports Netting
u, May 12, 2016 at 5:53 PM, <detroit...@aol.com> wrote:
> went on ebay and bought 90' x 24" netting for $51.00 !
> jim
> SEA YA!
> c & c 38 lf
> greensboro,nc
>
>
> -Original Message-
> From: Ryan Doyle via CnC-List <cnc-list@cnc-list.com&
unhooks
> jim
>
>
> -----Original Message-
> From: Ryan Doyle via CnC-List <cnc-list@cnc-list.com>
> To: Robert Boyer <dainyr...@icloud.com>
> Cc: Ryan Doyle <ryanpdo...@gmail.com>; cnc-list <cnc-list@cnc-list.com>
> Sent: Thu, May 12, 2016
Hey listers,
I've mentioned a couple times on here that a previous owner (two owners
ago) completely reconfigured the interior of my boat.
As a result, I was able to buy her back in October with a good survey for a
song... because - let's face it - most people don't want to buy a boat with
an
P.P.S - Before anyone freaks about having an electric heater on the stove:
My stove is completely unhooked and there is no propane on the boat. I'll
be buying a new stove soon.
On Tue, Apr 19, 2016 at 4:48 PM, Ryan Doyle wrote:
> Hey listers,
>
> I've mentioned a couple
rboard on this type of project now as Calypso?s
> interior resembles a fiberglass repair shop. The extra mess and dust would
> not be noticed.
>
> Martin DeYoung
> Calypso
> 1971 C 43
> Seattle
>
> [Description: Description: cid:D1BF9853-22F7-47FB-86F2-4115CE0BAF2F]
>
&
Good call Sam. That's an interesting idea. Sure cuts down on the number of
check valves to clog up.
___
This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like
what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All
Danny and Joel, thank you.
Danny, that Whale SuperSub looks pretty perfect. I think I'm going to go
for the switched one:
http://www.amazon.com/Whale-SS5012-Supersub-Bilge-Pump/dp/B003E21IAM/ref=pd_sim_sbs_200_4?ie=UTF8=41ExLs7vjeL=sims=_AC_UL160_SR160%2C160_=040MZH4KWCA66H7G4RA8
Joel, there's
I didn't edit the subject again... sorry guys.
---
Awesome Dennis. Thank you. I went down the same road as Steve and saw
that it was $153. $48 or $53 at Downwind Marine is much better.
Anyone know how to tell if you have an 202M-03, 202M-07, or 202M-15?
Awesome Dennis. Thank you. I went down the same road as Steve and saw
that it was $153. $48 or $53 at Downwind Marine is much better.
Anyone know how to tell if you have an 202M-03, 202M-07, or 202M-15?
On Wed, Apr 13, 2016 at 4:28 PM, wrote:
> Send CnC-List
The response to my inquiry from the helpful folks at Downwind Marine is
below. My pump is a two-bolt pattern. Just ordered their repair kit for
202M-03 and 202M-07 for $48.
Thanks again Dennis for the recommendation.
--
"Dear Rayn
According to our Atomic 4 reference information, and if
Hey listers,
I know I have been posting lots of questions recently, so thank you for
your insight and suggestions. It's much appreciated.
My 1976 C 30mki accumulates water in a forward bilge compartment that is
very hard to access.
My bilge pump is aft of the mast step, and while it does a
Hey guys,
Wondering if anyone can describe to me how they've ground their mast. I have a
1976 30mki and we got caught out in a very fast-moving t-storm this weekend and
I realized I should have done this when I bought the boat last fall. My mast
step is not original. It is a big, fat piece
Thanks to Joe and everyone else who replied. After reading a few articles
like this one - http://www.practical-sailor.com/blog/-11222-1.html, it
sounds like there is little consensus on lightning protection for
sailboats. I'd be curious to know what sort of lightning protection, if
any, comes
. I can ship you the
> stoppers...
>
> Cheers,
> Aaron Rouhi
> Admiral Maggie
> 79 30-1
> Annapolis, MD
> _____________
> From: Ryan Doyle via CnC-List <cnc-list@cnc-list.com>
> Sent: Tuesday, August 2, 2016 9:22 PM
> Subject: Stus-List Travel
Whatever you do, don't buy the cheap Hella Single Speed Jet fans... I had
two. I installed the first one, turned it on, it ran for about 1 minute
and I heard a loud pop followed by smoke. I installed the second one and
no smoke, but the speed switch is a total POS and it won't stay on unless
it back in, it would continue working.
Marek
From: Ryan Doyle via CnC-List
Sent: Wednesday, June 29, 2016 11:16
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Ryan Doyle
Subject: Re: Stus-List Fan Frustration!
Whatever you do, don't buy the cheap Hella Single Speed Jet fans... I had
two. I installed the first one, t
Hey all,
I've long felt that there was a need in the sailing community for a place
for sailors to exchange used gear. So much of what we end up buying new is
very expensive (and even wasteful) when you consider how much lightly used
sailboat gear is out there that's not being utilized.
My idea
Yikes... sorry everyone... I did a digest reply there.
Thanks very much Chuck. I'm glad you found the process of posting to be easy.
I've been working on our search engine optimization and we're climbing up in
search results. I'm also still streamlining the posting process on the back
end,
boat because
> you?ll be already so busy doing projects that you won?t have time to post
> your old stuff..
>
> Get busy, get rich, and turn your half empty cans of bottom paint into
> someone else?s barn find of the year!
>
> www.boatlist.org
>
> Cheers,
>
> C
ilar boat. Sorry for the rant but
> I hope you guys do your homework before buying or selling a boat.
>
> Frank
> C 29
>
>
> On Thursday, September 1, 2016 9:42 AM, Ryan Doyle via CnC-List
> <cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
>
> Hey All,
>
> The w
1 - 100 of 124 matches
Mail list logo