I guess another option could be to take your old board out of the radio
and send it to Elecraft for a factory update and wait for it's return.
Of course this would render the radio inoperable for that period of time
but at least you would know that your serial number vintage DSP board
matched
Keith Hamilton-3 wrote:
I would imagine there are a lot of us who hear the artifacts but just
don't
realize it? This would account for the undefinable fatigue some talk
about.
You can see these artifacts with a program like Spectran, but they are
only present when modulation is
Hello!
I am looking for some options for my K3. KAT3 Tuner, KBPF3 General Coverage RX
Bandpass Module, KDVR3 Digital Voice Recorder, KTCXO3-1 TCXO, KXV3A RX
Ant., IF Out and Xverter Interface (last Version), KFL3A-2.8K 2.8 kHz, 8-pole
filter, KFL3A-400 400 Hz, narrow 8-pole filter,
Hi Gary
And who can forget all the arguments on the Icom group web pages. It sounded
like what has gone on here. The Icom no rumble deniers were out in force.
Anyway Icoms have no rumbles or IMD now and have good inband IMD performance.
The only thing I dont like about the Icoms now is
there are few if any pairs of 'communications' phones that have
significant attenuation above 10Khz yet retain good flat frequency
response over the range we are interested in (~ 100Hz to 4KHz )
the artefacts are aliasing products centred around 12Khz, since these
are not harmonically related to
Hello Dick,
I was immediately thinking of you when 500kc permission in NL got through,
it must feel very special to key-down on your old band :-)
A good option for 500kc is the Juma kit:
http://www.nikkemedia.fi/juma-tx500/
With a few mods (extra i/o's) it might be an elegant solution with the
Indeed! And at the rate you're STRIKING it rich, you might end up
with enough to buy a SPARE! I've heard that this is an excellent
arrangement when operating SPLIT.
Sorry... :-)
Bill W5WVO
- Original Message -
From: Mike n...@nf4l.com
Cc: 'Reflector Elecraft' elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Brendan,
Not to be argumentative, but some with HF hearing loss may be bothered
by this distortion even though it is low level and is not in the range
of conscious hearing. When I first became aware of my HF hearing loss,
I found that I was increasingly irritated by low grade audio devices
Another link: http://www.w1vd.com/137-500KWTX.html
Wes N7WS
--- On Sun, 1/3/10, pd0psb p.s.bijp...@gmail.com wrote:
From: pd0psb p.s.bijp...@gmail.com
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] [K3] K3 on 500 kHz
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Date: Sunday, January 3, 2010, 6:35 AM
Hello Dick,
I was immediately
I should of said I am on Page 36 of the Alignment and Test Part 1 so I think
that there is no output, I will check the board anyway, you never know. At
first I did find some points not soldered and took care of them. Still
checking and killing brain cells.
Not sure if the display goes blank
This one will certainly be able to deliver 5W EIRP, Wes :-)
Nice design!
73'
Paul
PD0PSB
Another link: http://www.w1vd.com/137-500KWTX.html
Wes N7WS
A good option for 500kc is the Juma kit:
http://www.nikkemedia.fi/juma-tx500/
With a few mods (extra i/o's) it might be an elegant solution
Rick,
The K1 display changes to a simulated bargraph to indicate the power
output when keyed. You will not have any power output at this stage of
assembly, so your statement of a 'blank display' may be just fine.
Since the backlight stays on during keying, I should retract my
statement
Hi
HNY!!
In my TS850 I have a W1GEE interface connected in my LPT port to send CW and
a G4ZLP Cat interface to do radio control, with N1MM and Win-Test.
With the K3, wich cables interface may I use to send CW and to control the
radio with N1MM and Win-Test?
Thanks!
73,
Jorge
Oww! Oww! Oww!
My head is starting to split.
Enough already :-)
73, Bob N6WG
- Original Message -
From: Bill W5WVO w5...@cybermesa.net
To: n...@nf4l.com
Cc: 'Reflector Elecraft' elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Sent: Sunday, January 03, 2010 5:44 AM
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] P3 getting closer
The thing to watch with class D amps is that the Keying waveform will be
significantly modified (Rise and fall Times) and this could lead to
keyclicks by distorting the K3's keying waveform .
Mostly Class D amps are keyed at the Finals for this reason.
I am using my K3 on 500KHz in conjunction
Working in the electronic calibration field for some years I have found that
any mechanical meter movement has it's greatest accuracy at full scale only.
the meter movement's accuracy diminishes as you go down in scale. So if a Bird
Wattmeter is calibrated for 5% accuracy at full scale then
While Bird watt meters are rugged, revered and are the de-facto standard
watt meters in both commercial and amateur circles, their accuracy leaves a
lot to be desired. Unless recently calibrated, and used under specific
circumstances (ambient temperature) their use should be more properly
defined
Well Don, I went back checked everything, every hole and every solder fleck.
Cleaned up pad solder joints and just verified all, did I mention I missed a
couple of holes. Plugged in the power and earbuds and I heard noise, tried
the keyer and it was making noise, backwards but dits and dahs. I
Hi Paul,
Well that will certainly depend upon antenna efficiency, but QRO makes the
antenna much easier and the power company happier :-)
Happy New Year
Wes
--- On Sun, 1/3/10, pd0psb p.s.bijp...@gmail.com wrote:
From: pd0psb p.s.bijp...@gmail.com
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] [K3] K3 on 500 kHz
Bird Trulines were designed a long time ago. Yes they are good but not that
good. Certainly not a calibration standard. With a pure signal they give
good results within their specification.
With this type of meter it is very important to make sure there are no
harmonics in the signal as the
I am looking for an antenna to work 6 thru 80 meters in a condo
development. I presently own a k3/10.
Stealth is a very strong consideration. It seems that a SteppIR
Vertical or Hi Q antenna would make sense. Does anyone have experience
with these two antennas for this type of application? Thanks
Rick, that is great news. There is a menu setting to reverse the
paddles for us lefties.
73,
Don W3FPR
Rick/WA6ES wrote:
Well Don, I went back checked everything, every hole and every solder fleck.
Cleaned up pad solder joints and just verified all, did I mention I missed a
couple of holes.
See:
http://vibrotek.com/w5dc/w5dcant.html
It's not exactly what you asked for but it might give you some useful
ideas. The WARC bands and 80 meters are not shown in these early
pictures. The upper half of 80 meters is a wire that's parallel to the
wire until it reaches the pole where it
Does this go back to the older manuals? I think I used Manual Ver C (no
100% certain, though) when I built K2 #1103 -- is it something I should know
about and check?
Both the rev G manual on the web and the rev G printed manual has the same
problem.
tnx.
Conway Yee
Jorge Diez - CX6VM wrote:
With the K3, wich cables interface may I useto send CW and to control the
radio with N1MM and Win-Test?
I don't know anything about Wintest but I'm using K1EL's Winkeyer USB with
N1MM.
http://k1el.tripod.com/WKUSB.html
The advantage of this keyer versus
Conway,
From an earlier manual, there are .001 capacitors on the RF Baord at
C1, C2, C9, C17, C26 and C27 in addition to the ones that do appear in
the manual.
For the list of .01 capacitors, add C52, C53, C55, C58, and C61. Those
additions should make the numbers right.
The assembly
Hi Frank:
Lots of K3 users have the SteppIR BigIR vertical. I know this from being a
member of both Yahoo groups. You might want to pose the same question on the
SteppIR Yahoo group.
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/SteppIR/
And I just thought you would like to know that SteppIR has just
Let me build a K2, or any other Elecraft kit, for you. You will receive a
brand new radio with the options you want. I have built very close to 300 K2's
to date. My prices are reasonable. Please respond directly, not on the
reflector.
73
Alan
W1HYV
Tony,
Same thing happened to me when I plugged my Kenwood mono speaker into the
stereo speaker jack on the back of the K3. I did this without thinking from
the front of the radio when I was rearranging equipment in the shack. The
speaker worked for a couple of days until the audio output
Doesn't the manual state that a mono plug is ok? I better unplug my speaker.
I must have read wrong. Thanks a lot for the post!
Keith W8GX
On Jan 3, 2010, at 3:57 PM, Dave Perry N4QS wrote:
Tony,
Same thing happened to me when I plugged my Kenwood mono speaker into the
stereo speaker
The manual says: (page 20)
A stereo plug is recommended..If you only have a mono plug, set CONFIG:
SPKRS to 1 and disable right -channel audio
So yes it says mono is ok. But it doesn't say you'll blow your transistors.
You gotta find that out by other means, some of which aren't pleasant.
Older K3's were susceptible to damage if a MONO plug was inserted into
the STEREO jack on the back panel. Subsequent to that, there was both
a hardware and a software mod to new(er) K3s to eliminate the threat of
damage from that happening.
UNfortunately, I cannot quote book, verse, and phrase
Already changed my speaker to a stereo plug! I'm not
going to take chances! Again thanks a lot!
Keith W8GX
- Original Message -
From: Steve Ellington n...@carolina.rr.com
To: Keith Hamilton tu...@zoominternet.net; Dave Perry N4QS
n...@comcast.net
Cc: 'Elecraft Reflector'
Hi Dave,
Tnx for the info, but I don't think that is my problem. I have been using a
stereo plug in the K3 for over a year without a problem. And my external
speaker and internal speaker work fine if I turn on SPKR + PH. I just can't
get the internal or external speaker to work when there is no
And I might add that the first paragraph of that same application note
explains the 'why' - I quote:
This modification protects the K3's audio amplifier if either speaker
output is connected to a short circuit or very
low impedance load. Two 470 ohm, 1/4 watt resistors are added to the
output
Man... what a BIG discussion... whew!
Early on with my K3, I found that having two speakers (L R) plugged into the
rear panel SPKR jack of the K3 was turning out to be a real P.I.T.A.
I had two speakers, with somewhat lengthy (though folded up and tied) leads
which extended left and right
I was going to mount my KPA/100 in a seperate enclosure, but never have
gotten around to it. If anyone on the reflector needs one and wants to
buy it from me, I will sell it for $50.00 via Paypal including shipping
CONUS
Ci Jones, WU7R
Tom,
A great idea (why didn't I think of that). I don't cart my K3 around
much, but I use 2 speakers for AFX. It is not 'nice' having both
speakers tied to a single stereo jack.
Another solution, although not as elegant, is to use a Y-adapter. If it
is a commonly manufactured adapter, the
From an earlier manual, there are .001 capacitors on the RF Baord at
C1, C2, C9, C17, C26 and C27 in addition to the ones that do appear in
the manual.
Thanks. This completes my inventory of 0.001 capacitors.
For the list of .01 capacitors, add C52, C53, C55, C58, and C61. Those
additions
I solved this issue by installing a male RCA connector on each of my
speakers. Then I bought a long RCA to 1/4 in headphone cable that
didn't have a strain relief type thing on it. The strain relieve that
I'm talking about are the ones that don't allow the cable to split. I
then ripped the two
Conway,
From the Rev F manual, the bottom of the list of .01 uF capacitors is
C175, C181, C183, C184 and C186.
It looks like the height of the column stayed the same, but the width
was reduced - the number of capacitors per line is greater in the Rev F
manual than in the Rev G.
73,
Don
There was a time, maybe 8-9 years ago when life was thought to be
too short for inventories, many just jumped in and got on with it, I
certainly did. 100% success.
All this chatter about truncated lines is just getting in the way of
building. And another thing, real men wind torroids ;-)
Tom Hammond-2 wrote:
I had two speakers, with somewhat lengthy (though folded up and tied)
leads
which extended left and right across the back of the K3, wound in/out of
all
of the other wires back there as well, and BOTH leads attached to a single
stereo plug, inserted into the back of
On Sun, Jan 3, 2010 at 3:41 PM, Julian, G4ILO julian.g4...@gmail.com wrote:
Tom Hammond-2 wrote:
I had two speakers, with somewhat lengthy (though folded up and tied)
leads
which extended left and right across the back of the K3, wound in/out of
all
of the other wires back there as well,
Julian,
What is missing there is that with those adapters, one must wire one
speaker to the tip and the other to the ring to achieve dual speaker
reception.
It would be best to have both speakers wired the same - only to the tip
and sleeve - Tom's homebuilt adapter does that.
73,
Don W3FPR
The antenna by itself maybe small, but keep in mind that in order to make it
function properly, you need radials and lots of 'em.
If you mount the vertical on the ground, radial length is less important. If
you mount is with elevated radials you need at least 2 tuned radials for
each band to make
Hi Tom,
Doesn't the Radio Shack 274-375 stereo adapter at $4.50 do the same thing as
your circuit board? See
http://www.radioshack.com/product/index.jsp?productId=2102691
Best wishes and 73,
John, no8v
__
Elecraft mailing list
Home:
I have the Hi-Q 4/80 screwdriver antenna and have only used it mobile so
far. It is a great antenna as far as mobile operation goes. I may use it
parked in the driveway as one of my fixed antennas for some upcoming
contests.You could use the Hi-Q antenna with radials or just leave it on
John,
I will try responding in case Tom is not monitoring right now. That
adapter wires all the tips together and all the rings together.
Tom's adapter wires the tip of the plug to the tip of one of the jacks,
and wires the ring of the plug to the TIP of the other jack.
I do not know of any
Hi to all,
Just finished the ARRL RTTY Roundup with my somewhat new K3. It hauled the
load this time without a drop of sweat. In early December while in another
RTTY contest it developed Hi Cur warnings. That with a DSP board being DOA
when I built the radio in September and the noise
On Sun, 3 Jan 2010, Don Wilhelm wrote:
It looks like the height of the column stayed the same, but the width
was reduced - the number of capacitors per line is greater in the Rev F
manual than in the Rev G.
Taking your hint, I downloaded the Rev D manual. Assuming no signficant
changes in
Hi Julian
Been there, done that, etc. I think practically every socket on the back of
my K3 has something plugged into it.
But either I'm overlooking something, or you don't need to make up a special
connector. You can buy little adapters that have one 3.5mm stereo jack
output and two 3.5mm
Hello Don,
Hope you had a good New Year's.
I replaced X1 and subsequently D16 and D17, with no luck, still reading
12650. Getting a little frustrated. Any suggestions?
73,
Byron
N6UI
bviets wrote:
Don,
Well everything checked out, i can't find any fault with the installation
of
VP8NO writes:
There was a time, maybe 8-9 years ago when life was thought to be
too short for inventories, many just jumped in and got on with it, I
certainly did. 100% success.
Yes. I know. Given the instructions, I figured MOST would just jump in
and start building. As for me, I prefer to
My KX-1 has KXB3080, KXAT1, KXPD1 options. I am having trials and
tribulations with the KXAT1 tuning my KX-1.
My configuration was Cobra Senior Ultralight up 60-66’ at one end 45-50’
at the other with center up about 55-60’ | 81 feet of 450 ohm ladder
line runs that runs about 1’ foot through
Dan,
Would you please borrow an antenna analyzer from your friend and publish
the impedance (both resistive and reactive components) of that antenna
measured through both the 3 ft coax and the 25 foot coax.
After having that data, perhaps we can give you an intelligent answer
instead of mere
Good Evening,
Twenty meters was not kind today. I did get a little relay help from Tom
and then he acted as NCS for a bit. Neither of us could hear very well.
Luckily forty meters was much better. The weather reports (except for one 77
degree temperature) was chilly, to cold, to quite
Ok first let me this is the same K1 from earlier. The 40m portion works just
fine with 6ish watts out. Heck I even had one QSO to break it in.Now for the
20m, I did the alignments and can only get 2.5 watts out. Tried and tried
again to align it and can only get around 2.5 watts. It is getting
Julius Fazekas n2wn wrote:
Johnny,
Check here: http://www.hamvention.org/activities.php
QRPers attend FDIM.
http://fdim.qrparci.orgNot only for QRPers!
Contesters go to Contest University.
http://www.contestuniversity.com/
There are banquets for DXers, Contesters, Top
We had a good net today with a total of 33 participants again. Signals were
generally good. We ran for about 30 minutes. The only discussions were on
audio quality checks. Thanks to everyone who checked in. Here is the list
of participants.
Station NameQTH Rig S/N
W2RWA
My SteppIR was lowered down to 15 feet, pointing north and I was
running 100 watts Phil. That's why someone took pity on me and relayed for
me. My K3 is on the bench awaiting parts and the fabled DSP upgrade board.
It was nice using the K2 for a change.
Stan Rife
W5EWA
-Original
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