I don’t think there was a ‘prediction’ as in the future tense. The radar saw
the other car(s) start to slow and applied the brakes, I don’t think the red
car even put it’s breaks on. Also the Tesla driver had sufficient spacing to
react safely.
It’s interesting so speculate what the driver
On 12/27/2016 05:55 PM, EVDL Administrator via EV wrote:
On 27 Dec 2016 at 16:41, Jay Summet via EV wrote:
I used a 18 ga lamp cord in place of the fuse and tried to spin the
motor in neutral.
Try a larger wire. Remember that 1400+ amp starting surge.
You might also try "pre-spinning"
I thought it was amazing that the software predicted the accident of another
auto. Lawrence RhodesHans Noordsij on Twitter
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Hans Noordsij on Twitter
“@elonmusk Finally the right one. https://t.co/2fspGMUoWf” | |
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Two questions
- can you move (push) the vehicle while in gear (to make sure the motor
is not stuck)
- did you blow the wire when powering the controller or were you
applying 12V directly to the motor?
Note that sometimes something can be thrown up from the street and enter
the motor, possibly
I would tow it home then open the brush box and flush it with clean water and
check for foreign objects.
Maybe someone who has done it can comment but I would use a smallish 12v
battery to spin up the motor unloaded and see what happens. I believe DC motor
controllers often fail shorted so
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On 27 Dec 2016 at 16:41, Jay Summet via EV wrote:
> I used a 18 ga lamp cord in place of the fuse and tried to spin the
> motor in neutral.
Try a larger wire. Remember that 1400+ amp starting surge.
You might also try "pre-spinning" the motor to reduce the starting surge.
I wouldn't give
I have a similarly sized GE motor, and it takes about 30 amps to run with no
load. However, it overheats my 30 amp power supply if used for too long, and
the motor needs about 50 amps to start turning. You can start them
with a 12v battery in parallel with the power supply for a few seconds if
On 12/27/2016 02:42 PM, EVDL Administrator via EV wrote:
On 27 Dec 2016 at 14:31, Jay Summet via EV wrote:
I'm a little hesitant to suggest this since there's some hazard from molten
copper snot if it lets go, but you might try replacing the fuse with a small-
gauge copper wire -- maybe #16
On 27 Dec 2016 at 14:31, Jay Summet via EV wrote:
> I really don't want to test by blowing another fuse if there is a
> cheaper alternative
I hear you there! That's why I recommend a circuit breaker instead of a
fuse, or at least in addition to the (higher current rated) fuse.
I'm a little
On 27 Dec 2016 at 13:06, Jay Summet via EV wrote:
> Unfortunately, this probably means I have a motor short It measured 0.1
> ohms, which seems a bit too low for an FB1-4001A.
Don't assume the worst yet!
I've never actually measured the armature resistance of a series motor, but
that
Hurm, that is interesting. I figured the 0.1 ohm was way too low, but if
that is in the generally correct range there is a possibility that it
was just a bad fusebut I really don't want to test by blowing
another fuse if there is a cheaper alternative ;>
How many amps do you think I should
I'm pretty sure terminal resistance is supposed to be 0.03 ohms so a normal
ohmmeter won't tell you much... How about spin the motor in neutral with a
(fused) 12V battery? Any signs of arcing on the commutator?
-Ben
On Dec 27, 2016, at 1:13 PM, Jay Summet via EV wrote:
>
Today my HV fuse blew, and after testing my controller, I believe the
problem is that my 9" FB1-4001A DC motor is shorted. The motor leads
are measuring at 0.1 ohm right now.
Anybody have suggestions as to anything to look at/for before I start
the process of removing the motor?
I may
Thanks for the suggestions. I was able to test the controller and it
lights/controls the light bulb correctly under high voltage.
Unfortunately, this probably means I have a motor short It measured
0.1 ohms, which seems a bit too low for an FB1-4001A.
Jay
On 12/27/2016 10:49 AM, EVDL
12 volts might not be enough to energize the Curtis logic circuits properly.
An incandescent light bulb (40-150 Watt) is your friend. First, connect it
across the controller input terminals. If it lights at all, it should be
just for a short time. (You are making sure the capacitors inside
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Please discuss EV drag racing at NEDRA
Jay
Sent: Tue Dec 27 09:29:39 EST 2016
Subject: Blown HV fuse reasons?
Driving my S10 conversion the America kit I stepped on the gas while crossing a
road and heard a pop. Navigated to the side of the road and it looks like my
high voltage fuse has blown.
I have had twenty thousand
Country on
Sheldon Road ...
The scooter was then struck by a second car …
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