The modern term would be a tailor's bar.
In a message dated 30/06/2010 19:15:28 GMT Daylight Time,
h-costume-requ...@indra.com writes:
In Costume Close Up by Linda Baumgarten John Watson on page 107
describing a late 18th century shirt neck opening, the authors state A
I'd agree with that.
Firstly, even though a pocket may have been sizable enough to accomodate
the items referred to, it wouldn't be waterproof.
Secondly, who in their right mind would put them all in there together???
My coat has poachers pockets - designed for the transportation of
Interesting - I thought it was all a bit boy george / mclaren c. 1983...
In a message dated 24/05/2010 19:00:49 GMT Daylight Time,
h-costume-requ...@indra.com writes:
Message: 2
Date: Mon, 24 May 2010 09:27:40 -0700
From: Lavolta Press f...@lavoltapress.com
To: Historical Costume
Not getting into the whole copyright issue, as I'm not a lawyer, and it's
one of the most complex laws there is, because of the international
agreements (it's automatic here, btw, in the uk)...
...also as I have read the first part of the thread
However, purely for the sake of
Nope.
It's another genre that may or may not appeal to goths - bit like emo.
But steampunk is verging on mainstream now, so isn't really what it was.
In a message dated 25/03/2010 02:12:45 GMT Standard Time,
h-costume-requ...@indra.com writes:
Has goth (clothing and events)
The classic Sherlock Holmes coat of popular imagination is indeed an
inverness coat. Generally (though not exclusively) made in heavy tweeds.
However, in the books, Holmes and Watson are most often described (when
their outerwear *is* described) as wearing the British warm.
While not wishing to disillusion anybody, patterns cannot be trademarked,
because they are not - um - trademarks.
They can carry copyright, but only for the pattern as you have cut it -
simply cutting a curved sleeve head and shifting the sleve seam to the
medieval position may not be
I ordered some buttons from them last year.
We had problems contacting them via e-mail, but had no problems contacting
them over the phone (which was obviously in the evening allowing for the
time difference from the UK).
The buttons (naval ones) were delivered quite a bit later than
On assorted dummies...
modern evening dress - light blue satin and georgette with crystals and
smocking
assorted corsets
original WRAC uniform waiting to be steam pressed.
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How'd one of translate to one???
In a message dated 28/12/2009 19:03:10 GMT Standard Time,
h-costume-requ...@indra.com writes:
I think that honor belongs to Mark Twain (A Connecticut Yankee in King
Arthur's Court).
Fran
Lavolta Press
New book on 1820s clothing!
Good machine.
Step up (i.e. slightly more modern) than my 801, so may have a few more sti
tches (offhand mine has 8, but I rarely use most of them).
Relatively indestructable - I use my 801 on padding and it rarely complains
- but check it's in working order. As rough guide (I've
Sorry about the divorce, first.
I'd agree with going to a proper sewing machine shop and try some out.
They'll be able to advise you on what will do what you need (so do think
about what you're going to be doing with it - not just now - in the future
too).
My personal opinion
You could try searching for crepe hair.
is often used for thatrical make up effects (fake beards, etc) and comes in
plaited hanks, in a variety of colours.
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In the UK, Stockings HQ
_http://www.stockingshq.com/_ (http://www.stockingshq.com/)
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I remember thinking when I watched it last year that it reminded me of one
in (I think) one of Janet Arnold's books.
Will check tomorrow if I remember.
In a message dated 16/08/2009 19:00:48 GMT Standard Time,
h-costume-requ...@indra.com writes:
I would look so good in this dress.
I know most shemakers in the UK, and have never heard of Pilgrim Shoes.
Something about their pictures just don't look right - shapes too madern,
as though they're made on modern lasts, or something.
Decent shoemakers in the UK, Kevin Garlick, or Morgan at Plantagenet Shoes
- the latter
Not really any more accurate than any historical patterns from the big
companies, but classic 30s.
There was a huge vogue for 'medieval-esque' dresses in the 30s that could
have fitted quite happily in earlier periods (in terms of some design
features).
They were largely made in
The buttons at waist level are flat probably because some sort of belt was
worn over it, as depicted in many illustrations of the period. Not certain
about the top one - although it's been suggested that it was replaced at
some point in its life - possibly while still in the hands of its
Sorry, but that description of a 'headkerchief'* resembles more of the
1940s, or an early modern neckerchief, than a head covering from any part of
medieval times.
*never heard the term 'headkerchief' before incidentally, although of
course it was known as a 'coverchief' - I've always
Well I have no idea about judging, because we don't have contests here.
But period correct fabrics are more than available (easily), like fulled
wools, (admittedly I do live near several of the best wool mills in Europe),
and flat felled seams are just as easy as french on a sewing
Some of the silk brocades I use are taken from medieval patterns, and are
woven to order, with a minimum of around three or four metres.
They work out at around £90ish or £100ish per metre (or per just over a
yard).
One Italian velvet supplier has some gorgeous stuff - hand cut - a
Was about to say the same thing...
It's Suzhou embroidery, though, an ancient Chinese technique which gives
photographic like images, so I can see how you could make the mistake if
you're not aware of it.
In a message dated 14/04/2009 02:15:16 GMT Standard Time,
Funny that - I was always taught to avoid hook and eye tape like the
plague, too...
Debbie
In a message dated 12/04/2009 19:05:46 GMT Standard Time,
h-costume-requ...@indra.com writes:
Incidentally, I hate hook and eye tape - it can come apart at crucial
moments, especially in
Got mailshotted a few days ago.
Didn't pay that much attention to it, other than noting I know the model :o)
In a message dated 29/03/2009 19:01:04 GMT Standard Time,
h-costume-requ...@indra.com writes:
Anyone heard about a new book by the ladies who did Tudor Tailor? Pre-sales,
I was there.
Have a stall (have been doing it for years).
Spent a knackering 3 days meeting lovely people (mostly) and rambling in
general at them about costume...
Debbie
In a message dated 15/03/2009 18:00:42 GMT Standard Time,
h-costume-requ...@indra.com writes:
in
One is wearing a corset / waist cincher in a fairly odd fabric that I found
and quite liked (sort of green camo pattern with flocked leaves).
One is wearing the corset that should ahve gone under my wedding dress, (but
I threw a tantrum over the design and started the bodice from
I don't particularly store single project materials together.
The fabric is on the fabric shelves, the lace (or whatever) in the
appropriate drawer. It gets taken out when it gets made.
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In a message dated 19/01/2009 19:00:34 GMT Standard Time,
h-costume-requ...@indra.com writes:
Oh good grief! You'd feed your body with more energy by eating the silk
than wearing it. What they're describing here sound more like it'd just
make
your hair stand on end.
the price did
But you do know that a modern tuxedo, even tweaked, wouldn't equate to 30s
evening dress, right?
It's dinner dress (hence it still being known as a dinner ajcket here).
For evening dress in the 30s you're talking tails.
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In a message dated 11/01/2009 19:01:06 GMT Standard Time,
h-costume-requ...@indra.com writes:
When I clicked on that page there was a 15 minute film, sound and
colour - was it not there for you?
Suzi
If it's on i-player it won't work outside the UK. I think the theory is
that it's
There are extant examples and designs in just about every colour you can
imagine - pinks, greys, greens, black (a perenniel favourite!), blues, greens,
whites and ivories - there are even a couple in gold or silver lame, or prints.
Particular faves of mine are a gold lame overlaid with
In theory, it should be that you thread the end that comes off the spool
first - although it does depend on the thread - in theory, if you compare the
two ends one will be 'tulip shaped', and that's the end you should thread.
In reality I agree with Suzi - if it's going to knot, it's
I've used costume in detail to make reproduction dresses.
Granted, it doesn't give you patterns on a plate in the way that Arnold and
Waugh do, but it gives you the detail you needs to make a fairly accurate
repro when used in conjuction with a wider knowledge of pattern cutting and
making
In a message dated 19/11/2008 10:10:43 GMT Standard Time, Debloughcostumes
writes:
From memory, the green howards museum may have something.
Green Jackets, not Howards (duh! - s'what I get for watching telly on the
beeb website typing at the same time!)
And ps - apologies - just
I'm sorry, but this is complete bunkum!!!
I've been looking into uniforms more than usual lately, as I've been doing
lots of work for an army museum.
Some aspects of the cut did not change, but the uniform patterns for all
sections of the british services changed drastically between 1800
I like Berninas full stop.
The older mechanical ones are the best (less to go wrong, so they're
workhorses).
And the buttonholes are good too (although better if you do the corded
version, which are fabulos.
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Yep - can't you temporarily turn the list off, then turn it back on again???
As in, cancel the e-mails, then set them up again...
In a message dated 24/10/2008 15:53:50 GMT Standard Time,
[EMAIL PROTECTED] writes:
Ah, but this should be a point to remember for the rest of us. Do
UK version out since July, and not bad.
available used and new on amazon.
In a message dated 21/09/2008 19:05:46 GMT Standard Time,
[EMAIL PROTECTED] writes:
Yesterday I got a review copy of a brand-new book called Corsets:
Historical Patterns and Techniques. It looks like a great
In a message dated 11/09/2008 19:01:40 GMT Standard Time,
[EMAIL PROTECTED] writes:
I've been seeing everything through a steampunk lens these days, and
I've been really digging Firefly, so my first thought was
Chinese-inspired space pirate.
Oh, god, I thought more or less the same
In a message dated 04/09/2008 19:06:20 GMT Standard Time,
[EMAIL PROTECTED] writes:
Paquin:
I have that Mme Paquin business was from 1891-1956. Does anyone know her
first name? I can't find it in my resources. Also I have come across some
French images in 1919 for a Joseph Paquin.
ooh - thanks!
I have that site bookmarked, (has some stunning stuff, doesn't it?), but
haven't had chance to check it in a while.
Debbie
In a message dated 02/09/2008 19:01:11 GMT Standard Time,
[EMAIL PROTECTED] writes:
I normally peruse this site once in a while. Found this
I'm not aware of any real research into hosen and linings from earlier than
the 16th century.
I'm not aware of any extant hosen (other than the buskins in Canturbury
Cathedral, obviusly, but they're 12th century (offhand)).
I don't tend to line the ones I make, because the lining would
Depends what it is and how much there is.
Half a metre or more isn't an offcut, so that stays in the scraps box(es) to
be used for corsets, etc.
Smaller pieces of nice linens (pretty colours or patterns) goes into the
trimming linen drawers - likewise with silks - they're used for things
No idea, not my machine, as said.
In a message dated 21/06/2008 19:02:05 GMT Standard Time,
[EMAIL PROTECTED] (mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]) writes:
That is not enough info. :)
What does the presser foot look like, tall, pointing up and slender like a
finger, pointing sideways, or flat
That would be the British Library here, which has a coy of every book ever
published in the UK.
However, knowing it's there and getting a reading card are two entirely
different matters :o)
In a message dated 21/06/2008 19:02:05 GMT Standard Time,
[EMAIL PROTECTED] writes:
We
A bit of a long shot, but does anybody recognise the below description of a
sewing machine?
There's a guy on another forum I post to who wants to learn to sew, but he's
having problems with working out how the threading mechanism works.
a very old german machine it is fully metal
With tailoring head on, I'd say that on a modern garment, they should match.
Generally it's simply a case of fiddling about with both body and sleeve
patterns till they do.
A little off is less of an issue (up to half an inch or so) - more than that
and I'd personally have to alter.
In a message dated 02/06/2008 19:01:18 GMT Standard Time,
[EMAIL PROTECTED] writes:
Don't nurses wear veils in the UK? I remember from several movies...
Monica
The nurse in overall charge of a ward was, and for all I know still is,
called Sister. I read some books by an author named
I don't have many, and likewise on sewing professionally.
I have one that I use all the time, one that's a back up in case that goes
down, and two that are of sentimental value that are at the back of my big walk
in cupboard (one was my Nana's, one was Nige's Nana's).
Don't think I''ll
Oh, knowing how bad I am at the only non-English language I'm even vaguely
able to communicate in (Italian), I'd agree about not making fun of any English
- as - second - language speaker! and they do say that English is one of
the hardest languages to learn, because it's so inconsistent.
Anybody have any idea where I might be able to get hold of a decent weight
silk (or silk and cotton) ottoman, grosgrain, or otherwise corded (not striped
silk in a dark red colour?
Have tried the usuals (henry bertrand, james hare, etc, etc) and come up
blank so far.
Any suggestions?
Would so love to go, but have a slight hitch in that am getting married in
November...
*sigh*
:o)
In a message dated 30/04/2008 20:43:42 GMT Standard Time,
[EMAIL PROTECTED] writes:
I have met some people who are saving up to go to the big event in November
for Janet Arnold.
The yellowing is more of an issue with the clothing than the books or
patterns, I'd say.
The value of any books and patterns will be reduced a little, but less than
if the clothing is yellowed.
Not necessarily rendering the clothing worthless, as there are more ways to
get marks and
In a message dated 24/04/2008 16:20:30 GMT Standard Time,
[EMAIL PROTECTED] writes:
This could be really fun to poll the list. Lurkers come out, wherever you
are!
About how many costume/fashion related books or magazines do you own?
Never actually counted, but a couple of bookcases full.
Toby Whitty of The Silver Wyvern for buckles.
Hand makes them all, and is excellent.
Trained as a jeweller, and made my (medieval design) engagement ring.
In a message dated 14/04/2008 06:43:44 GMT Standard Time,
[EMAIL PROTECTED] writes:
Relaying a request from a friend:
Can
Nah - the bad one is the number of people from soruthern England who've
though I was Scottish.
I'm not, I'm from near Newcastle in the North East. *rolling eyes*
(Of course, then when I pointed out where I'm from, some asked which part of
Scotland that was in!
In a message
In a message dated 02/04/2008 19:00:26 GMT Standard Time,
[EMAIL PROTECTED] writes:
Andrew Trembley wrote:
[EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
Nah - the bad one is the number of people from soruthern England who've
though I was Scottish.
I'm not, I'm from near Newcastle in the North
Most retailers and wholesalers I'm aware of get their corset supplies from a
manufacturing company in Germany - they have a website that I have
bookmarked, but obviously (cos I'm looking for it) I can't find it right now.
May come up on a web search though.
Other than that the
Wherabouts is she? And what kind of woollen fabric is she after?
There's always the re-enactor's market this weekend.
Failing that there are a number of suppliers that carry wools all year round
for re-enactors and the like. Depends what she needs.
There are some who make hooky mats
If you have the capability the best thing I've ever found for getting smoke
out of fabrics is simply to give them a really good airing - preferably
outdoors.
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If it's any help, the bottle green I wore as part of my school uniform was
something like Pearsall's no 15 Apple Green thread.
I'd describe it as a very dark green - probably a shade or two lighter than
a rifle green, and in fact, very like the green of a wine bottle that's not
held up
It's not online, but I can e-mail you privately with the mesurement form and
the instructions I send to long distance customers, if it would be any help.
In a message dated 25/02/2008 01:40:14 GMT Standard Time,
[EMAIL PROTECTED] writes:
Hi,
I'm searching for some information on
As a rule of thumb, avoid absolutely anything that has redrawings (sketches
etc) unless it gives the actual source of the image.
Generally it helps to avoid anything that covers a huge timespan in one
volume, unless it's a compression of prior multi volumes, or for use as merely
a
I have several books that I (and others) consider to be not good - some of
them (eg Kohler) come in handy for the photos if nothing else...
But I do tend to find that they come in handy as a design source for modern
clothes :o)
In a message dated 23/02/2008 00:44:02 GMT Standard
In my experience it's one of the best available in the world (although
naturally it dpends on the end use).
Sorry - don't know of a US stockist, as I just order through the webisite
direct (but am in UK).
In a message dated 06/02/2008 14:52:46 GMT Standard Time,
[EMAIL
Mine's a bog-standard tefal domestic iron, with a separate water tank.
Although I use it as a dry iron generally (I tend to use a spray bottle or
dauber if I need to steam), it has spray steam and shot of steam.
No idea what model number it is, though it's an older one - has been on 8-20
What kind of Grenadier's hat, and from which country?
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Anybody know the etiquette of whether hats are worn indoors or not a t the
Venice Carnival?
For some customers whose outfits am making.
Debbie
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It looks based on one.
It might not be possible to find a portrait of Queen Vic in gold, because
after Prince albert died she insisted that all the portraits of her (well, all
possible) were altered to show her in mourning dress - according to a painting
expert from (I think) Christie's.
It does have some good pictures and a lot of text I can't say whether
they're pics you'd be familiar with because I don't know what else you've got.
I like it and would say get it if you can get a decent price - but I like
Aileen Ribeiro'sstuff in general anyway.
In a
The girls that aren't naked are wearing underpinnings.
One's in the start of a mid 17th century gown in silk taffeta.
One's in the start of an 18th c sack dress that I'm making for a customer
going to the venice carnival on honeymoon - loosely based on an original in
Leeds - red
One's
In a message dated 29/11/2007 19:01:17 GMT Standard Time,
[EMAIL PROTECTED] writes:
Also you can sew more quickly with a small needle (presumably the in
and out action is quicker). When I first started sewing I read that
tailors preferred to use sharps (ie small needles) and I always
I don't remember the numbers, but Paul Meekins had a load of these at the
re-enactor's market last weekend - more than he usually has.
_www.paulmeekins.co.uk_ (http://www.paulmeekins.co.uk)
In a message dated 15/11/2007 19:07:39 GMT Standard Time,
[EMAIL PROTECTED] writes:
I'm
Haha...
I'm continually telling brides on a wedding forum I post to to practise
walking in their dresses before the day.
They rarely pay any attnetion, but hey, I try!
:o)
In a message dated 07/10/2007 02:28:23 GMT Standard Time,
[EMAIL PROTECTED] writes:
Ah, yes, the
OK, UK for me, but I was raised on pretty much a WW2 diet, if you put the
bananas and stuff back in. S'what I got by being raised by my Nana, who
trained as a cook just pre WW2, but did most of her cooking during and just
after.
I still started wearing a bra at 9.
In reality for me my
speaking as a natural 34G, who has the same problem, have to say, I'm with
you!!!
In a message dated 01/10/2007 15:54:41 GMT Standard Time,
[EMAIL PROTECTED] writes:
If only! I have no back -- it's all boobage. I really want a band of
34 (or even 32) -- some 34s are too big, so I
for anybody in the Uk, esp the north, Sadie the bra lady is fabulous (comes
up if you google her).
and if you're larger of cup size, so are bravissimo.
I fit myself too (and in reality I'm different sizes in different makes and
styles), but occasionally go to bravissimo in leeds cos it's
Hating braies as I do (they're just so uncomfortable...) I'm fine with
there being no evidence for women wearing them. :o)
That said, that's the point really - there isn't any evidence - what there
is that I'm aware of is questionable for one reason or another.
Plus it may have
I suppose the gallery section of my website would count as one (brag book
that is).
there's a ton of stuff that I have yet to get around to adding, but there's
a bit.
_http://www.deborahloughcostumes.com/gallery.html_
(http://www.deborahloughcostumes.com/gallery.html)
debs
I tend to spray with water and steam iron.
that's with cloth or clothes for other people.
my own linen clothes I tend not to bother ironing at all. I find that the
creases drop out of pure linen in less than an hour anyway.
___
same here - the straight stabilises the bias, so it doesn't stretsh in wear
/ hanging.
do it all the time in linen, and not had a problem. any puckering I sort
out by fiddling with the machine tension.
In a message dated 28/07/2007 00:10:04 GMT Standard Time,
[EMAIL PROTECTED]
abimelech hainsworth
_http://www.abimelech.co.uk/_ (http://www.abimelech.co.uk/)
talk to general woollens
debs
In a message dated 22/07/2007 16:36:01 GMT Standard Time,
[EMAIL PROTECTED] writes:
Hi,
I am looking for fabric wool to make french uniforms of the WW1 :
- weight :
I'd recommend a look at the forums at _www.livinghistory.ie_
(http://www.livinghistory.ie)
there are loads of people who know lots more than me about irish historical
clothing (my knowledge of irish clothing specifically is a bit limited) -
although I'd agree that there is no real
you can get some of these personalised through moonpig.com
had nige in stitches the other night, esp the one of the guy in trunkhosen
:o)
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there is a record of hosen and buskins from earlier periods (anglo norman /
angevin specifically) having leather soles.
but the assumption is that these were used for 'indoor wear'
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I know from past discussions how many of you on the list hate the whole
baggy trousers showing the wearer's pants fashion, so thought you might
appreciate what I saw on my way to the p.o. today.
there was this chav bloke (burberry print cap, ellesse top, the works...) on
a pushbike way
In a message dated 26/06/2007 19:01:22 GMT Standard Time,
[EMAIL PROTECTED] writes:
What do you call those sort of bloomers that men wore with hose in the
16th c in France. They are rounded in outline, striped, come to about mid
thigh.
probably already been answered, but could be one of
do lads still dress like that? the baggy pants showing the underwear I mean
- it's so 90s. :o)
it's ridiculous but I can't help feeling that banning them is a bit more
ridiculous. and making it an arrestable offence is just stupid.
every generation tries to offend the
ripped jeans.
and really heavy make up.
and almost exclusively black.
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Depends what level of society you're talking.
am not aware of any among the upper classes off hand, but there's some for
the lower classes.
points rather than laces though.
In a message dated 18/06/2007 19:01:45 GMT Standard Time,
[EMAIL PROTECTED] writes:
Message: 1
Date: Mon,
Good lord, and I thought we were getting carried away by taking in a local
stray bringing it up to 3!!!
:o)
In a message dated 06/06/2007 19:01:33 GMT Standard Time,
[EMAIL PROTECTED] writes:
Try 15 cats!
Anne (retired fro Ma Bell but still works part time for Lillian
In a message dated 05/06/2007 03:10:39 GMT Standard Time,
[EMAIL PROTECTED] writes:
Greetings unto the List,
I'm looking for advice on a lining material to stiffen the stand-up collars
of my husband's cotehardies. I've got some lightweight linen that I'm
planning on using for him this
I make costume for a living too...
historical stuff for museums and re-enactors mostly - odd bit of tv chucked
in - I also make bridal and evening wear, etc. oh, and have my first british
army commision as a tailor now, so most definitely full time :o)
debbie
In a message dated
oh I know that feeling!!
Nige insisted I took last thursday evening off to go to the pictures - first
evening off in about a month :o)
In a message dated 05/06/2007 15:03:40 GMT Standard Time,
[EMAIL PROTECTED] writes:
Until I decided I'd had enough and started planning my
The Queen's birthday is _actually_ in April. Confused
yet?
actual birthday 21st april
official birthday a saturday in june (it changes) - in the uk anyway...
appraently it's all edward vii's fault...
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Stuck working, just like the last bank holiday weekend
making the prom dress from hell
oh well, will be pretty once it's done (lilac satin, rhinestone tulle
overlay, silver applique, and one shoulder stra with lilac and clear
rhinestones).
Kind of glad not at an
Some women in continental europe did wear pants - pepys mentions somewhere
in his huge diary that his wife was wearing knickers in the 1660s, but puts it
down to her being french.
split knickers were definitely still around in edwardian times - they really
started to disappear as skirts
apologies for not changing titles in my last post - realised as I hit the
button I hadn't (was up all night so not entirely with it - sos!!)
debs
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don't know of a website, but metric pattern cutting by winifred aldwych
(sp?) has good charts (though they're obv metric - I tend to convert to inches
on
a spreadsheet)
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Can't help personally (bf not allowed to go to Ireland), but the people on
_www.livinghistory.ie_ (http://www.livinghistory.ie) might have some
suggestions.
In a message dated 09/05/2007 13:23:02 GMT Standard Time,
[EMAIL PROTECTED] writes:
Saragrace's request for German shopping
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