RE: GBACG Open House (was Re: [h-cost] Re: Hero costume at Costume Con
Oh, thanks! S. -Original Message- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Andrew T Trembley Sent: Thursday, January 18, 2007 1:17 PM To: Historical Costume Subject: GBACG Open House (was Re: [h-cost] Re: Hero costume at Costume Con On Jan 17, 2007, at 12:39 PM, Sharon at Collierfam.com wrote: I was a Tech theatre major, did some costuming, but really got interested five years ago when I got involved in the Renaissance and Dickens Fairs. The costume requirements are quite strict, so I got much more interested in authentic costume vs. theatrical costume. When I heard about this list last year, I joined. I'd never heard of the Costume Conventions before. One of the women I recently met is a co-founder (I think) of the Bay Area Costumers Guild, so I am learning more every day. So, on the off chance you didn't know, the Greater Bay Area Costumers Guild is having it's open house on January 28 in San Francisco: http://www.gbacg.org/Current/OpenHouse.htm andy -- andy trembley, Bitchy Design Queen http://www.irlm.org/ - mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Anybody who takes this seriously deserves to -- Donna Barr ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
RE: [h-cost] Re: Hero costume at Costume Con
I was a Tech theatre major, did some costuming, but really got interested five years ago when I got involved in the Renaissance and Dickens Fairs. The costume requirements are quite strict, so I got much more interested in authentic costume vs. theatrical costume. When I heard about this list last year, I joined. I'd never heard of the Costume Conventions before. One of the women I recently met is a co-founder (I think) of the Bay Area Costumers Guild, so I am learning more every day. Sharon -Original Message- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Andrew T Trembley Sent: Tuesday, January 16, 2007 12:47 PM To: Historical Costume Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: Hero costume at Costume Con On Jan 16, 2007, at 3:52 AM, Sharon at Collierfam.com wrote: Oh, Yes, thanks. I live 30 miles from San Jose, so will definitely go in 2008! Well, registration is online at http://www.cc26.info and full weekend adult membership is at $75 right now. The price will be going up after CC25 (I think at the end of April, actually). Are you involved with any of the Bay Area costume groups? Do you attend any of the historical costume events or conventions in the area? Just curious... -- andy trembley, Bitchy Design Queen http://www.irlm.org/ - mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Anybody who takes this seriously deserves to -- Donna Barr ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
RE: [h-cost] American Civil War
maybe put some trim down the front over the holes. -Original Message- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Rickard, Patty Sent: Sunday, January 14, 2007 9:23 AM To: Historical Costume Subject: RE: [h-cost] American Civil War Lucky you! I think fezzes are right out. I'm just starting to look into this myself would appreciate information, too. I've read that young women wore hats but older women would wear bonnets don't know what constitutes the difference. Thanks for any light anyone can shed. Patty From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] on behalf of Lalah Sent: Sun 1/14/2007 11:53 AM To: Historical Costume Subject: [h-cost] American Civil War I am making garb for a Civil War enactor's girl friend and his mother is driving me crazy. She has some really weird ideas and since she has been playing with this group for a number of years, I just shut up and do what she wants. However, I made the mistake of putting Fray Check on the buttonhole marks on a blouse and it spread out and it shows badly. Having tried everything I can think of to remove it, I am ready to take the blouse apart and make a new left front. Then it occurred to me that it would be easy to use the left side for buttons and put the buttonholes on the right. My friend went crazy saying they never had the buttonholes on the right. I am so sick of the whole thing that I don't want to do any more research. Does anyone know if the buttonholes HAD to be on the left on women's blouses during the Civil War period? Also what kind of hat would be appropriate? I am not going to make her a fez! Thanks for the help Lalah, Never give up, Never surrender _ Netscape. Just the Net You Need. ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
RE: [h-cost] Re: Hero costume at Costume Con
Where and when is Costume Con? -Original Message- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Pierre Sandy Pettinger Sent: Sunday, January 14, 2007 7:38 AM To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: [h-cost] Re: Hero costume at Costume Con Date: Sun, 7 Jan 2007 00:35:23 -0500 From: Caryn Sobel [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: CostumeCon There were several young-mid teens kids there last year; I hope to see them again--they're great! Thanks, Ann. That's good news! My daughter's only true historical costume so far for CostumeCon is still in the research phase--she saw the movie Hero and is trying to find what era the costume might be from (not much from the Qin era so far), if it is based on a real style. I thought that a wrap-type dress might be quicker to do when she already has her hands full with the earlier ones, and will give me something to do a little embroidery with. We'll see how that goes... Caryn Caryn, A few words of advice for your daughter. If she is intending to recreate the movie costume it wouldn't be eligible for the Historic Masquerade. The cut off date for historic costumes is: costume based on clothing that was worn or could have been worn through December 31, 1982. (from the formal rules). It would, however, be completely appropriate for the F/SF masquerade on Saturday night. If, on the other hand, she is using the film for inspiration and wants to create a historically accurate costume from the Qin Dynasty (say what the character would have really worn in the Qin Dynasty) that would be completely appropriate for the Historic masquerade. If you have any questions let me know. You might also contact the Historic Masquerade director, Byron Connell, and ask him. He might over rule me. (I may be co-chair, but these decisions are ultimately the purview of the respective directors and their word is law on these matters.). He can be contacted at: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Hope this helps. We look forward to seeing your daughter on stage. Pierre P.S., if she's planning this for a Hall Costume, you can disregard all of the above. Those Who Fail To Learn History Are Doomed to Repeat It; Those Who Fail To Learn History Correctly -- Why They Are Simply Doomed. Achemdro'hm The Illusion of Historical Fact -- C.Y. 4971 Andromeda ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
RE: [h-cost] Aprons
A friend of mine has a lovely poster of a girl (1700's)wearing an apron, with the top rectangle pinned on. Don't know about the bottom part. Sharon -Original Message- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Lauren Walker Sent: Friday, January 12, 2007 3:58 PM To: h-costume h-costume Subject: [h-cost] Aprons Well, here is an utterly flatfooted query from me: Do we know when women began wearing aprons of the rectangle with waist strings type? Too many of my history-of-costume books are in storage right now and I just can't seem to recall when they start showing up in the art. Does anyone have this info easily at hand? Thanks! Lauren Lauren M. Walker [EMAIL PROTECTED] ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
RE: [h-cost] fabric for robe a la francaise
Don't know if you are near San Jose, CA, but Fabrics R Us is very low priced, for silks, brocades, fancies. -Original Message- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of [EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Friday, January 12, 2007 3:25 PM To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: Re: [h-cost] fabric for robe a la francaise They make some very lovely synthetic taffetas. Try to get one that's not so heavy. Now having said that, I do like some of the oriental satin brocades you find at Jo Ann's if you can find one that isn't dragons or bamboo. I've found some with a butter yellow background covered with little multicolor flowers. Also one in coffee with black flowers evenly spread across it. Also a cream one with chrysanthemums. These can be a little heavy but they look very rich. Polyester is not a dreadful as it used to be. Sometimes it looks exactly like silk, though never feels like it. Also chintz...striped or floralcan be perfect. Check the drapery department, but make a huge effort to choose something that doesn't look like curtains [even though many real gowns do]. ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
RE: [h-cost] Aprons
Lovely, but, no. I found the image. If you go to www.allposters.com and put in young girl with racket and shuttlecock, you will see it. -Original Message- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of jordana robinson Sent: Saturday, January 13, 2007 5:36 AM To: Historical Costume Subject: Re: [h-cost] Aprons is it this? the chocolate girl by liotard, circa 1743: http://artchive.com/artchive/L/liotard/chocolate_girl.jpg.html i'm always tempted to recreate that ensemble for halloween or the renaissance fair (i know it's like 100 years out of period, but i don't work there or anything. and i think it would be funny if someone recognized it). On 1/13/07, Sharon at Collierfam.com [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: A friend of mine has a lovely poster of a girl (1700's)wearing an apron, with the top rectangle pinned on. Don't know about the bottom part. Sharon ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
RE: [h-cost] 17th century Dutch reproduction - was URL Repost
I know there are embroidery machines out there that allow you to draw with a stylus onto their screen, for a custom design. -Original Message- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Saragrace Knauf Sent: Saturday, January 13, 2007 9:10 AM To: Historical Costume Subject: [h-cost] 17th century Dutch reproduction - was URL Repost I have looked everywhere for fabric for the bodice - New York, Canadathere really was nothing similar to the black on rust embroidery. I have found someone local, new to reproduction costume, who is interested in taking a stab at digitizing the embroidery. I have silk taffeta in approximately the same color for the base fabric. I do intend to do the oak leaf shapes if she can reproduce the embroidery to my satisfaction. She has already reproduced the little scrolly ribbon on the sleeves very well. If that doesn't work, I have purchased enough some silk damask which, while beautiful, is really nothing like the original. As to the lace, I don't think we can afford the handmade lace...pretty limited budget. But I think I can find some stuff which will be adequate. The woman who may be doing the embroidery is also interested in digitizing the lace...I don't know if that will work. She has done some reproduction 16th century lace, but that was in squares..I didn't really care for it. Hopefully I will be able to post what I have done so far...I have the corset completed.., started on the ruff, and have also started to work on the headdress, .now on to the bum-roll! Sg - Original Message - From: Bjarne og Leif Drews [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: Historical Costume [EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Saturday, January 13, 2007 5:36 AM Subject: Re: [h-cost] URL Repost - Re: French Farthingale construction tips? Dear Saragrace, These were much better. Thankyou for showing. Boy this is an interresting thing to make. Are you planning on making as much decoration on the stomacher as the portrait, what is it going to be made from? For the cuff laces, how about considering to purchase some of the lace Ninya Michaela has on her website? They had a lace manufacturer make a reproduktion renaissance lace. I baught and have 10 meters of it, for a dress i maybe wil make in the future. Its a nice lace, but even it looks real, the weight of it is two heavy. But you cant get it all these days. Bjarne ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
RE: [h-cost] Movies and ancient costume
Since an inn of the time had everyone sleeping communally (I believe), who wouldn't rather go through labor and delivery in the peace, privacy and warmth of the barn/stable. That's what I would have chosen. I always thought it funny that everyone seems to think it was a bad thing that they got the stable. -Original Message- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of [EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Tuesday, January 09, 2007 6:46 AM To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: Re: [h-cost] Movies and ancient costume In a message dated 1/9/2007 12:43:00 A.M. Eastern Standard Time, [EMAIL PROTECTED] writes: Now as to the debate of whether God of a fashion impregnated Mary or that Joseph was the biological father and God imbue spiritual giftsis a debate for another list. ** Like the whole thing is a myth [a lovely one, though] written long after the event and Luke's death by some anonymous author. But that is a debate for another list, since it doesn't affect the costuming. ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
RE: [h-cost] Schaube
There is a short one in The Tudor Tailor, page 87, pattern on pages 93-94. It's a starting point. -Original Message- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Zuzana Kraemerova Sent: Friday, January 05, 2007 7:36 AM To: Historical Costume Subject: Re: [h-cost] Schaube Thanks for help! Gonna search through our art museum library... But the more I search, the more I'm confused about what the word really means. Now I've found an explanation in one of the Czech history of costume books and it says that the alchubba was a long dress of mohammeds, opened in front. In 12th century it came to Europe with the crusades. They say that the word later changed to Schaube, which was a large cloak worn in the entire Europe, especially in the time of Reformation. So the famous Henry VIII-portrait-like robes are probably those called Schaube. Are there some resources about the original garment? The arabian one? - Original Message - From: michaela To: Historical Costume Sent: Friday, January 05, 2007 12:04 PM Subject: Re: [h-cost] Schaube I need a little help: I'm looking for pictures and patterns for this kind of dress: http://de.wikipedia.org/wiki/Bild:Schaube.PNG it is called Schaube in German, originally from arabian aljubbeh or something like that. Somewhere I found that it is also called robe, which is probably not very helpful, because the word robe can mean many different things. Sort of but robe generally (should) refer to a garment that hangs from the shoulders as opposed to something that fits the torso or else fulfills the function of a modern coat (which can be semi fitted to the body but usually not form fitting.) Surcoat, Ropa these are similar items of the 16thC. Schaube is used in this sort of generalised term usually too. It is a sort of a shorter cloak, often with fur. I cannot tell more, as the robe was changing through centuries and the word for it was still the same. Not always shorter, it was many different lengths and it is possible they all had different names depending on the specific use. Women wore them and they can be seen in many images. I collected several but it's so hard to hunt them out in the first place I wouldn't really know where to direct you! How's that called in English? Do you know any details about this kind of dress or where to find them? Books, webpages? With pictures or patterns? The surcoats in Patterns of Fashion aren't too bad to go by. Then the Ropa in Alcega are also of a similar design. Many men wear them in portraits by German artists, and there are a number of them for women but they are usually seen full length in woodcuts or illuminations etc. Michaela who just handed on her Scahube as it was much too big in the shoulders. Super snuggly and warm though. http://glittersweet.com ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume __ Do You Yahoo!? Tired of spam? Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around http://mail.yahoo.com ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
RE: [h-cost] FW: Mushrooms!!
Someone at Ren Faire dyes using mushrooms, bark, walnut husks, etc. Gets some lovely colors. -Original Message- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of otsisto Sent: Friday, December 15, 2006 8:13 PM To: Historic Costume Subject: [h-cost] FW: Mushrooms!! From another list. I wonder if this is a lost art. De -Original Message- Natural dying with mushrooms: http://www.sonic.net/~dbeebee/web_mush-history.htm Look at those fantastic colours. Old technique re-discovered? Gullveig. ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
RE: [h-cost] VA weddingdress
I remember seeing a gown that could be tied up as you describe. It was online, being sold last(?) year. There was some discussion on this site that it wasn't completely authentic, that it had been perhaps re-made or altered. Sorry, that's all I remember. Maybe someone saved the picture. -Original Message- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Bjarne og Leif Drews Sent: Thursday, December 14, 2006 11:18 AM To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: [h-cost] VA weddingdress Hi, Many of you may know the white satin weddingdress wich is in Norah Waughs Cut of Womens Clothes. A Robe Francaise with intricate puffs pleatings as decoration in the under and overskirt. This dress has tape ties in the back section with the watteau pleats. I just wondered if any here have seen any pictures where a francaise dress is lifted up in the back with these tapes? I am just wondering because i am starting a new projekt in the new year with a francaise dress, and my client would like to have this opportunity to lift up the train. I dont recall to have seen any pictures where this is shown. Bjarne Leif og Bjarne Drews www.my-drewscostumes.dk http://home0.inet.tele.dk/drewscph/ ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
RE: [h-cost] VA weddingdress
Turns out I saved it. http://www.vintagetextile.com/new_page_238.htm I don't know if this is what you're talking about, but it may help. -Original Message- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Bjarne og Leif Drews Sent: Thursday, December 14, 2006 11:18 AM To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: [h-cost] VA weddingdress Hi, Many of you may know the white satin weddingdress wich is in Norah Waughs Cut of Womens Clothes. A Robe Francaise with intricate puffs pleatings as decoration in the under and overskirt. This dress has tape ties in the back section with the watteau pleats. I just wondered if any here have seen any pictures where a francaise dress is lifted up in the back with these tapes? I am just wondering because i am starting a new projekt in the new year with a francaise dress, and my client would like to have this opportunity to lift up the train. I dont recall to have seen any pictures where this is shown. Bjarne Leif og Bjarne Drews www.my-drewscostumes.dk http://home0.inet.tele.dk/drewscph/ ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
RE: [h-cost] The Green Valley
What is TVO? Is there an online site for this? -Original Message- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Five Rivers Chapmanry Sent: Monday, December 04, 2006 9:22 AM To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: [h-cost] The Green Valley I don't know if any of you are following TVO's presentation of the BBC series that follows the lives of several archaeologists/experts who are recreating life in the 16th century. Unlike most reality shows, this one is not set up for conflict, rather for discovery, hence the reason they chose people who were knowledgeable of, and experienced with recreating, the period in question. The costuming is wonderful, right down to the torn shirt of one of the fellows, frayed hems, grotty nails and all. They're eating real period food, doing real period tasks, with knowledge and in some cases with additional expertise. There's no whining and whinging and secret caches of modern items. They are completely and utterly dedicated to their year in the 16th century. It has been an interesting journey and I look forward to further instalments. Regards, Lorina Five Rivers Chapmanry purveyors of historical sewing patterns, quality hand-crafted cooperage, re-enactor and embroidery supplies, and more. 519-799-5577 [EMAIL PROTECTED] - www.5rivers.org ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
RE: [h-cost] Query about Mod and the mid-1960's
Re the 40's patterns-what size are you interested in? I ask because a friend gave me a bunch of patterns from her mom, who used to be a seamstress. I think I noticed some 40's stuff in the quick look I've taken. -Original Message- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Bjarne og Leif Drews Sent: Friday, December 01, 2006 7:28 AM To: Historical Costume Subject: Re: [h-cost] Query about Mod and the mid-1960's What about try to look at the library? I know for instance the library at Museum of Decorative Arts in Copenhagen takes home all the fashion journals, and i think they have archived these. Bjarne - Original Message - From: Angharad ver' Reynulf [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: Historical Costume [EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Thursday, November 30, 2006 9:46 PM Subject: [h-cost] Query about Mod and the mid-1960's Greetings everyone! I'm popping out of lurkdom after Worldcon and Loscon to ask for help while setting up another group set of costumes for next year's Friday Night Fun. Wonder of wonders, they are pulling me out of medieval era clothing/costume and into making more early-to-mid 20th century stuff. The theme is Mod as in the mid 1960's. My tighter focus, at least in theory, is going to be closer to the items worn by Diana Riggs in the Avengers, or one of the other similar designers, but I am also finding interesting comments about a couple of other designers. I'll share a few of the ones I don't want for myself with some of the other folks doing the theme who haven't chosen yet as well. So my request is help in finding photos of garments made by John Bates (Jean Varon), Andre Courneges, or Paco Rabanne. I'll be trying to determine a fiber which I can easily wear, as most of the polyester I remember from that time (since I was well, very young then) makes me break out in serious cases of the itchies now. My husband's first vote is for the immediately identifiable first season Emma Peel leather catsuit, but I want to see a few other ideas before I make up my mind. (*grin*) Then to find a nice pair of 1940's patterns for me- one for day and one for evening! Thank you, Jonnalyhn Wolfcat aka Angharat Do you Yahoo!? Everyone is raving about the all-new Yahoo! Mail beta. http://new.mail.yahoo.com ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
RE: [h-cost] looking for pictures of bum rolls
I wear a bumroll with my Ren Faire costume and it doesn't stick out as far as in that painting. Also, the style of the clothing (especially the very long pointed fronts) is from the late 1500's, when wheel farthingales were worn. Bumrolls, worn alone, were earlier. -Original Message- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Zuzana Kraemerova Sent: Friday, December 01, 2006 10:56 AM To: Historical Costume Subject: RE: [h-cost] looking for pictures of bum rolls That's my impression as well. Especially here: http://homepage.mac.com/muzette/Eng.File/Art/Gallery_pages/Gallery_bal.html The curve at the skirt is very sharp - as if there was a wheel farthingale. A bumroll would make a much more rounded look. Also the bend of the skirt is kind of too far from the waist, this would mean that the bumroll must have been quite large, but then it would make quite a round shape... Sharon at Collierfam.com [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: It seems to be that the women are wearing wheel farthingales, not bumrolls alone. -Original Message- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Elizabeth Walpole Sent: Wednesday, November 29, 2006 12:31 AM To: Historical Costume Subject: Re: [h-cost] looking for pictures of bum rolls - Original Message - From: Robin Netherton To: Historical Costume Sent: Wednesday, November 29, 2006 6:27 PM Subject: Re: [h-cost] looking for pictures of bum rolls Following up my own post (below): Here's one of the images: http://www.insecula.com/oeuvre/photo_ME057470.html The presence of rolls is very clear, particularly on the woman in the right foreground, but on some others as well. It does seem to be at the Louvre, as I was remembering. I probably have some photos of it and its mate, but I haven't gotten around to indexing all of the 500 or so slides I took in Paris ... a few years ago ... yeesh, I will never get them all straight. --Robin Aha! I found another http://homepage.mac.com/muzette/Eng.File/Art/Gallery_pages/Gallery_bal.html it's not that big but this is the one I was thinking of. Elizabeth Elizabeth Walpole Canberra Australia ewalpole[at]tpg.com.au http://au.geocities.com/amiperiodornot/ ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume - Everyone is raving about the all-new Yahoo! Mail beta. - Everyone is raving about the all-new Yahoo! Mail beta. ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
RE: [h-cost] What's your dressmakers dummy wearing?
The one I made closed up the front. -Original Message- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Dawn Sent: Saturday, December 02, 2006 7:40 AM To: Historical Costume Subject: Re: [h-cost] What's your dressmakers dummy wearing? Penny Ladnier wrote: Another lady has on a c. 1910s white shirtwaist. The same person donated the shirtwaist. It has beautiful lace collar and bib. Here is this lady: http://www.costumegallery.com/VCU/Photos/1910/P1040106lg.jpg How does this shirt close? Up the front or the back? Dawn ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
RE: [h-cost] looking for pictures of bum rolls
It seems to be that the women are wearing wheel farthingales, not bumrolls alone. -Original Message- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Elizabeth Walpole Sent: Wednesday, November 29, 2006 12:31 AM To: Historical Costume Subject: Re: [h-cost] looking for pictures of bum rolls - Original Message - From: Robin Netherton [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: Historical Costume [EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Wednesday, November 29, 2006 6:27 PM Subject: Re: [h-cost] looking for pictures of bum rolls Following up my own post (below): Here's one of the images: http://www.insecula.com/oeuvre/photo_ME057470.html The presence of rolls is very clear, particularly on the woman in the right foreground, but on some others as well. It does seem to be at the Louvre, as I was remembering. I probably have some photos of it and its mate, but I haven't gotten around to indexing all of the 500 or so slides I took in Paris ... a few years ago ... yeesh, I will never get them all straight. --Robin Aha! I found another http://homepage.mac.com/muzette/Eng.File/Art/Gallery_pages/Gallery_bal.html it's not that big but this is the one I was thinking of. Elizabeth Elizabeth Walpole Canberra Australia ewalpole[at]tpg.com.au http://au.geocities.com/amiperiodornot/ ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
RE: [h-cost] Walking Art, at the Italian Cultural Institute
Don't know about round heeled referring to excessive walking-- I've heard it was because a woman of easy virtue was easily pushed over, meaning she had round heels instead of square ones which would tend to keep her from tipping over. -Original Message- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Ruth Anne Baumgartner Sent: Sunday, November 26, 2006 2:08 PM To: Historical Costume Subject: Re: [h-cost] Walking Art, at the Italian Cultural Institute Sounds interesting! But the article's comment The kings of France adopted high heels, as did the aristocracy, which explains why poor people who couldn't afford them were said to be down at their heels. sounds fishy to me. My understanding (gleaned where? the mists of time make source uncertain) was that people down at the heel walked their heels into nothing--and couldn't afford new shoes (or heels). So, Yes to poverty but No to an inability to afford high-heeled shoes to begin with Round-heeled reported a similar phenomenon but due to excessive walking on the job--i.e., street-walker. This is a similar understanding of mine Any corrections (or support) from people less dependent on fuzzy memories would be welcome! --Ruth Anne Baumgartner scholar gypsy and amateur costumer On Nov 26, 2006, at 4:42 PM, lisa wrote: An article appeared in my local paper about this exhibit. http://tinyurl.com/ye4spw or http://www.honoluluadvertiser.com/apps/ pbcs.dll/article?AID=/20061126/LIFE08/611260320/1076 Has anyone seen the exhibit and if so, how was it? lisa ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
RE: [h-cost] Hair
Hair spray. It's sticky and even holds my fly away hair. (It does get crunchy, though.) :-) -Original Message- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of [EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Tuesday, November 14, 2006 3:06 AM To: Historical Costume Subject: Re: [h-cost] Hair I'd be dee-lighted to hear the solution to this problem, since I have it too. My hair is fine but plentiful, and nothing I've tried seems able to hold it in place for more than 10 minutes. Argh! In fact, back in the 80s, my hair wouldn't even hold a perm for more than a week or two. I've considered the french braid thing, but haven't tried it for years--my hair may be long enough again that it'd work now (~3 inches past waist). Which leads to my other problem: since I'm growing out my hair sans trimming, I now have about 6 inches of natural layering (and split ends), which means that when I try to hide the ends of my braids, they poke out all over the place and look awful. It seems like the french braid idea would make it even harder to hide the ends, since there really wouldn't be any place to tuck them out of sight. Any bright ideas? -E House ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
RE: [h-cost] dress type
For what it's worth, my Lucy Barton Historic Costume for the Stage says, in the Early Georgian section, 1700-1750, Costume (could consist) of but one dress or of a gown over bodice and petticoat... and Gowns open over under bodices might be laced across or left open to show ruffles or lace. Over gowns were usually open in front; dresses worn without gowns were as often laced up the back. Maybe these are over gowns, worn over a back laced dress. The shape of the body would be achieved by the laced under dress and the over gown was one piece, worn over the other layer, to change the look of the outfit Sharon C.. -Original Message- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Bjarne og Leif Drews Sent: Sunday, November 12, 2006 6:42 AM To: Historical Costume Subject: Re: [h-cost] dress type Hi, This is excactly what there are not. No patterns of such a dress. Because the dress only consist of one skirt, i wonder how the skirt would be attached to the bodice. Could it be that the whole front skirt was put to some tape ties, where it would be attached to the back of the skirt at the middle of the bodice, and then the pointed bodice would be pinned in the front over the skirt? What i would be very interrested in was how the cut would have ben like in the back, perhaps the fourreau style or the mantua style with sewn down pleats? It is strange that all costume historians leaved this type out, because it surely was very popular, also in Denmark. Besides its not as much fabric consuming as a francaise is or anglaise for that matter, because it only has one skirt. Bjarne - Original Message - From: Suzi Clarke [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: Historical Costume [EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Sunday, November 12, 2006 2:20 PM Subject: Re: [h-cost] dress type At 13:00 12/11/2006, you wrote: I have seen this dress. In the original movie, The King And I, Anna is wearing one during the State Dinner seen when she is dancung with Yul Brenner. --- Diana Habra [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: I have finally found a propper picture to show. This is a painting of the view over the thames. Its from the mid century. You can clearly see that the ladies dresses dont have the sack backed trains in the back. I have seen this type of dress in many danish paintings two, yeat this type of dress is never spoken of in any history books. So i ask you! Please take a look at this painting wich i uploaded, it is cropped just to show the persons, and its ben magnified a lot, so its not the best quality. What is this dress called? Is it bodice and skirt, or is the skirt attached to the bodice? I am so curious to hear what you think! http://www.my-drewscostumes.dk/thames.htm To me it looks like a version of the Anglaise style dress. Or am I missing something? If they are Anglaise dresses, then the skirt is attached to the bodice, they close in the front with small straight pins, and the bottom of the bodice comes to a point in the front and back. The skirt is also pleated to the bodice all the way around. Hope that helps! This is taken from a painting by Canaletto in 1747. It's one of his London from the Thames paintings. Here is the full painting. http://www.abcgallery.com/C/canaletto/canaletto31.html (I hope). Are there dresses like this in Fitting and Proper, or Costume Close-up, or Costume in Detail, or Historic Fashion in Detail? (the 18th century one.) I'm away from my books and can't check right now. Suzi ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
RE: [h-cost] Tudor Tailor -- another review
From a purely practical point of view, the piece around the back of the neck, forming a circle around the head, made the hood fit extremely well. I wore mine outside, in wind, without any fasteners, bobby pins, etc. It just sat on my head and I had no problems with it wanting to come off. It is a good design for costume purposes. -Original Message- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Melanie Schuessler Sent: Sunday, November 12, 2006 11:13 AM To: Historical Costume Subject: Re: [h-cost] Tudor Tailor -- another review Sharon at Collierfam.com wrote: I don't know about the authenticity aspect, I meant the pattern came out nicely, fit well, looked good. Sorry. No need to apologize. I think they are successful in the ways that you mention, but not as accurate as I would like. I've been researching French hoods rather intensively lately, and was surprised by the ones in The Tudor Tailor. Melanie Schuessler ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
RE: [h-cost] World Record says 15??? was: Corset Training for 13
In the picture on the Guinness site, is she wearing a metal corset? -Original Message- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Katy Bishop Sent: Friday, November 10, 2006 10:51 AM To: Historical Costume Subject: Re: [h-cost] World Record says 15??? was: Corset Training for 13 She looks gruesome in person, her face is so tortured. I saw her about 10 years ago at a Victorian ball. Katy On 11/9/06, Joan Jurancich [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: At 04:59 PM 11/9/2006, you wrote: It just happens to be Guiness World Record Day...they showed a spot on the local news which showed the current world record holders waist has expanded from 15 to 20! http://www.guinnessworldrecords.com/records/human_body/extreme_bodies/small est_waist_on_a_living_person.aspx H Sg I must say I don't find her wasp-waist to be particularly attractive. She looks like she might break in two in a high wind. Joan Jurancich [EMAIL PROTECTED] ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume -- Katy Bishop, Vintage Victorian [EMAIL PROTECTED]www.VintageVictorian.com Custom reproduction gowns of the Victorian Era. Publisher of the Vintage Dress Series books. ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
RE: [h-cost] Tudor Tailor -- another review
I made a Mary Tudor dress using the book and was pleasantly surprised. Nice french hood patterns. -Original Message- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Dawn Sent: Wednesday, November 08, 2006 2:13 PM To: Historical Costume Subject: [h-cost] Tudor Tailor -- another review I received my copy this morning, and have spent most of the day reading it. I'm more impressed than I thought I would be. First, the quality of the book, the binding, the paper, and the photography, is very good. The first three chapters have a lot of pictures, some I've seen a lot of other places, and many I had not seen before anywhere else. The color is good and the photos are clear, even though most are less than 3 across. The first part of the book is chock full of details and tidbits of clothing information taken from sources, covering things like the weave and cut of hose, foundation padding, hair dressing, the costs of different kinds of stockings, and the colors used for petticoats. Some of the text is footnoted with sources, some of it is not. It rather rambles with no set direction, but it's interesting. There is a useful table on period fabrics, and a short section on basic sewing techniques like buttonholes and pleats. However, this is not a beginner's book. You should have a moderate sewing ability, including being able to draft up the scale diagrams and alter them to fit you, and construct them with minimal directions. It will help immensely if you already have some experience with clothing from this period, because a lot of the instructions given are very scant, and if you don't know what it is supposed to look like, you'll be lost. There's a page on how to fit men's hose, which might be useful to some people I know. However, there's also a picture of a man in hose with slashes above the knee, and no hint of how they're made. Obviously, there's slashes, but there's also some kind of lining which isn't explained. There's a number of other patterns which variations pictured -- some of which can be figured out by looking at other patterns, and some of which are again never explained. Mostly, it's sleeves. The patterns cover a good spectrum, male and female, upper and lower class, Henrician and Elizabethan styles. I wish some of the accompanying photos of the modelled clothing were larger and showed more detail. There's directions for farthingales and rolls, ruffs and collars, and about ten hats and hoods. My main complaint about the patterns is they are mostly undocumented. There's nothing on them alluding to a source garment or painting used as reference. The few exceptions, like the loose kirtle, are already covered in Arnold's _Patterns of Fashion_. Finally, the models are all impossibly thin and the patterns are drafted for the size 12-14 range. If you are larger than that, and a lot of folks these days are, you are in for a lot of work. Overall, I was pleased with the book. It's a good one-stop source for the 1500's if you're going to be doing recreation clothing. If you already have patterns or a wardrobe you don't *need* this book, but some of the reference photos might make it worth it. If you've never sewn anything before, this might be a little overwhelming and I would definitely brush up on basic sewing and fitting techniques or work with an experienced helper. Dawn ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
RE: [h-cost] Harmful Fabrics
Aniline dye is dangerous. -Original Message- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Penny Ladnier Sent: Saturday, October 28, 2006 1:26 PM To: h-costume Subject: [h-cost] Harmful Fabrics I am putting online a fashion terms dictionary from 1894. I came across asbestos being used in fabrics. What are some of the other past fabrics or dyes that have been found to be harmful to the wearer? I am worried now because I am working with a large fashion collection at the university. I came across a bonnet lined with wool that I am allergic too. I broke out in a rash and was sneezing uncontrollably. Here is the definition from the book: Asbestos : A fibrous variety of a mineral substance, composed of separate filaments, with a silky luster. Its fibers are sometimes flexible and elastic, sometimes stiff and brittle, and when reduced to a powder are soft to the touch. It is incombustible, and the fine qualities have been spun and woven into gloves, shrouds, cloth for firemen's suits, lamp-wicks, roofs, floors and for various other fire-proofing purposes. Its feeble consistency has always has always been the chief obstacle to its general use among textile fabrics. It was mined in 1894 in Canada, Vermont, Virginia, South Carolina and on Staten Island, New York. Penny Ladnier, Owner, The Costume Gallery Websites www.costumegallery.com www.costumelibrary.com www.costumeclassroom.com www.costumeencyclopedia.com ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
RE: [h-cost] Harmful Fabrics
Also, I remember something about a certain kind of green dye being dangerous. It was used in fabric and wallpaper, and children who ate the paper scraps got sick, also the people wearing a garment could get sick. There was something on this list a while ago about someone having an old dress she wanted to wear, but was told to be careful because of potentially harmful dyes. -Original Message- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Penny Ladnier Sent: Saturday, October 28, 2006 1:26 PM To: h-costume Subject: [h-cost] Harmful Fabrics I am putting online a fashion terms dictionary from 1894. I came across asbestos being used in fabrics. What are some of the other past fabrics or dyes that have been found to be harmful to the wearer? I am worried now because I am working with a large fashion collection at the university. I came across a bonnet lined with wool that I am allergic too. I broke out in a rash and was sneezing uncontrollably. Here is the definition from the book: Asbestos : A fibrous variety of a mineral substance, composed of separate filaments, with a silky luster. Its fibers are sometimes flexible and elastic, sometimes stiff and brittle, and when reduced to a powder are soft to the touch. It is incombustible, and the fine qualities have been spun and woven into gloves, shrouds, cloth for firemen's suits, lamp-wicks, roofs, floors and for various other fire-proofing purposes. Its feeble consistency has always has always been the chief obstacle to its general use among textile fabrics. It was mined in 1894 in Canada, Vermont, Virginia, South Carolina and on Staten Island, New York. Penny Ladnier, Owner, The Costume Gallery Websites www.costumegallery.com www.costumelibrary.com www.costumeclassroom.com www.costumeencyclopedia.com ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
RE: [h-cost] 1690s hunting gown
I think the tassel is actually a handle for her riding crop. Modern crops still have them, just not so fancy. -Original Message- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of [EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Wednesday, October 25, 2006 3:49 PM To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: [h-cost] 1690s hunting gown Hi guys. I'm in the planning stages of a 1690s hunting gown, and I was wondering if anyone could help me figure out the sleeves. In this engraving: http://www.kipar.org/period-galleries/engravings/1690/1690f1.jpg , what is the purpose of the tasseled ribbon tied around her wrist? And isn't her Steinkirk backwards? I've been trying to figure out the cuffs on this one: http://www.marquise.de/en/1600/pics/1690_1.shtml . I think what I'm seeing is a big dog-eared cuff that belongs to the overcoat, a flat, notched cuff that belongs to the waistcoat, and a big puffy chemise sleeve with one ruffle. The chemise goes almost to the wrist, but the other two sleeves go just past the elbow. Is this correct, or are the two outer sleeves pushed up? And is the ruffle on the chemise made of the same fabric as the chemise, or would it be wide lace? None of the pictures I've found confirm that gloves would be worn with this outfit, but surely you wore gloves to go hunting? I found these pictures: http://tinyurl.com/ygo7lr and: http://tinyurl.com/ync28z of extant gloves, but are these women's gloves? Would either pair go with a hunting gown? Thanks for your help! Tea Rose Check out the new AOL. Most comprehensive set of free safety and security tools, free access to millions of high-quality videos from across the web, free AOL Mail and more. ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
RE: [h-cost] OT - +size swimwear
Lands' End. They have a good selection, good fit and most importantly, they have a great return policy. You can return anything for any reason, even swimwear that you've tried in the water.(I've done it) -Original Message- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Five Rivers Chapmanry Sent: Friday, October 13, 2006 2:26 PM To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: [h-cost] OT - +size swimwear I know I'm not the only Rubenesque woman here, so I'm wondering, where do you ladies purchase your plus-size swimwear? I swim 3x/week, and my two swimsuits are in very serious need of replacement. Of course it's October. There's no swimwear to be found, and the major stores for plus sizes (for me Pennington's in Ontario, Canada) don't bring in their cruise-wear until late November, and I'm living in fear that I may be caught flashing before then. I've checked some places online, but I'm loathe to commit the very serious dollars before knowing anything about these places. Anyone have an information? I'm looking, btw, for a size 26 or 28 swimdress. Regards, Lorina Five Rivers Chapmanry purveyors of historical sewing patterns, quality hand-crafted cooperage, re-enactor and embroidery supplies, and more. 519-799-5577 [EMAIL PROTECTED] - www.5rivers.org ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
RE: [h-cost] parasol frame
Have you tried Amazon Drygoods? Also, www.lacis.com might have them. -Original Message- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of pyrfectpup Sent: Friday, October 13, 2006 11:23 AM To: Historical Costume Subject: [h-cost] parasol frame I have an idea for making a parasol using a crochet pattern as the base. However, I've not been able to find a source for just the frames of parasols. Any suggestions? - Cecilia, in sunny California (usually) with a new need to avoid overexposure to the sun [EMAIL PROTECTED] ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
RE: [h-cost] 1970s American Fashion
Jessica McClintock? -Original Message- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of [EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Wednesday, October 11, 2006 5:35 PM To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: [h-cost] 1970s American Fashion Aarrgh. There was a female clothing designer in San Francisco in the 70s who made off-the-rack dresses in that olde fashioned look - sort of Victorian, sort of peasanty. She later made more sophisticated prom dresses and wedding dresses inthe 80s and, i think, 90s. But i'm drawing a blank on her name... Can anyone help? Thanks, Anahita ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
RE: [h-cost] 1970s American Fashion
I friend gave me all her old patterns and there're some of this style in the box. Cool. -Original Message- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Elizabeth Young Sent: Wednesday, October 11, 2006 8:01 PM To: Historical Costume Subject: Re: [h-cost] 1970s American Fashion gunny sax dresses fit that description and I made (and wore one - hey, it was the 80s - I deny any responsibility for my wardrobe) from a commercial pattern, probably Simplicity liz young [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: Aarrgh. There was a female clothing designer in San Francisco in the 70s who made off-the-rack dresses in that olde fashioned look - sort of Victorian, sort of peasanty. She later made more sophisticated prom dresses and wedding dresses inthe 80s and, i think, 90s. But i'm drawing a blank on her name... Can anyone help? Thanks, Anahita ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
RE: [h-cost] 1520s french headwear--fresh eyes needed
Ahh, the swamps of home..(apologies to Once Upon A Mattress fans. -Original Message- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Wanda Pease Sent: Friday, October 06, 2006 9:55 AM To: Historical Costume Subject: RE: [h-cost] 1520s french headwear--fresh eyes needed I was fortunate enough to have lived with the US forces in Germany several years while we were forming what is now the Kingdom (then Principality) of Drachenwald. One thing I treasure more than many others is a trip into the cellars of the German History Museum in Nuremberg with the Curator. We saw several slashed outfits and asked how they, meaning the people who made the clothing for wearing, finished the slashes. His answer was fish glue on some of them. When the conservators opened up the linings and began to work with the garment you could still smell it very faintly. Other items were simply slashed across the bias and as Sharon says, they weren't washed so they didn't fray. Still other things such as shoes in velvet DID fray. They were ephemera anyway and not meant to last but be thrown/given away when they were no longer wearable. When we pounced on the steel shanked pearl buttons and lace cuff on several garments he sadly admitted that they had been rented in the early 1950's for costume balls!!! to raise money for the museum which was almost destroyed during the War. They had replaced the real buttons and put the cuffs on to do as much as possible to save the costumes. He had a picture of the loose gown with the undergown with silver lace like overlay (see Janet Arnold) on a lady who was holding her little lap dog in her arms and smiling for the camera. He had another of one of the men's outfits where the man was holding the glory of the collection, a huge gold and silver fully rigged ship style Nef as he poured wine or dispensed salt or spices to the diners at a Medieval Dinner held in the old town hall. At the time money was of more importance in saving the entire collection than individual items. The Nef originally had 110 little silver and gold men working on it. Now there are only 10. It's not so different now. An important collection of manuscripts held in the State Library of Baden in Karlsruhe, once a Duchy, will be auctioned off in order to raise enough money to keep up the Ducal castle of Salem (the name made me blink too) which is a school and a landmark. They hope the collection will bring about 70 million Euros. Sigh! At least the manuscripts will probably go to good homes who will love and treasure them. The castle, on the other hand could burn down, fall over, and sink into the swamp (or landscape since I don't remember swamps around there :-( Regina Romsey -Original Message- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Behalf Of Sharon at Collierfam.com The slashes -looks like the painter was trying to show shadow lines, which you'd see if the inner material wasn't tight to the outer material. I have a book, Historical Fashion in Detail, which shows pinked edges ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
RE: [h-cost] Need help for fabric sources...
If you could find printed/woven material that was similar, you could just embroider around a motif, much easier and faster than embroidering the whole thing. Someone on my Ren Faire site posted this: http://www.wattsandco.com/ They said it was nice but expensive, but I seem to remember some red/black brocade there. -Original Message- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Saragrace Knauf Sent: Friday, October 06, 2006 1:17 PM To: TheRenaissanceTailor; GermanRenCostume; h-costume Subject: [h-cost] Need help for fabric sources... Hi all, I finally got some pictureshttp://www.saragrace.us/html/A1_GoldenAgeDressDiary_Pics.html up on the website of the dress I am making for the Phoenix Art Museum. I spent a few days in the New York City Fabric district, and really didn't find much I liked. (I did buy some things, and have a few things in my stash I could use if I don't find anything I like better). If you have any source ideas - especially for the under bodice and the black outer gown, please suggest away. I don't hope to get anything exactly alike (obviously the under bodice was embroidered especially for this gown). My research tells me that they stuck mostly with dark rich colors. Thanks for your help in advance! Sg ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
RE: [h-cost] 1520s french headwear--fresh eyes needed
I just made a French hood and to my eyes, the dark spot (#3) is where the back veil, (in this case a shaped bag), in attaching to the hood, hangs free. I have seen people sew the veil all around and have also seen the back left loose, as appears to be the case here. I see what appear to be gathers at the back nape of the bag, which makes sense if it is the type not sewn all the way around. -Original Message- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of E House Sent: Thursday, October 05, 2006 3:42 PM To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: [h-cost] 1520s french headwear--fresh eyes needed I'm working on a replica of the headress worn by Princess Charlotte in this Clouet painting (1522): http://www.formfunction.org/temp/1522clouet-charlotte-de-fra.jpg After much experimentation, I've come up with a pattern I'm reasonably happy with, but I just cannot make up my mind on a few points. If you'll look at this closeup: http://www.formfunction.org/temp/1522clouet-charlotte-detail.jpg you should be able to see each of them. Issue 1: Those slashes The closeup shows each slash with a sort of outline around it, as though each slash were bound with strips of the same fabric the hat's made of, sort of like a bound buttonhole. It seems to me faintly unlikely that they'd go to this much trouble, and I certainly don't want to, but that's the only way I can think of to get that same exact look. The only other options that come to mind are either a) just slash , and let it fray if it will--not too terrible an option, since the luscious heavy silk sateen I have for this is not at all prone to raveling drooldroolbragbrag--or, b) fold back a teeny hem for each slash, and stitch them into place. Ideas? Suggestions? Issue 2: What should the back look like? If you look at the bottom diagonal slash of the bag-like portion, on the other side of the circumference seam it looks a bit like there's a slash on the back that mirrors it. Does anyone else see it? I'm thinking I may just mirror those diagonal slashes around the edge of the back, and leave the center of the back plain, or perhaps decorate the center with pearls. (Yes, I have a ton of glass pearls for the project. This will be one heavy bit of headwear!) I'd love any clever suggestions, though, as I haven't found any great backview shots of this style of headress yet. Issue 3: that blackish semi-circle at the nape of the neck This looks almost like a painter's mistake, or as though the paint has started to flake off to reveal a previous version, or some wierd aborted restoration attempt, or I don't know what; whatever it is, my instinct is that it's not really a part of the headwear. If it were a part of the headwear, the only things I can think of would be a) a poor rendering of the bag's interior, seen in shadow (but I give Clouet way more credit than that!) or b) a netting of some sort. Any ideas as to what on earth it could be? Anyone know more about the history of this painting than I do (ie, more than nothing)? -E House ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
RE: [h-cost] 1520s french headwear--fresh eyes needed
The slashes -looks like the painter was trying to show shadow lines, which you'd see if the inner material wasn't tight to the outer material. I have a book, Historical Fashion in Detail, which shows pinked edges just left to fray, also some small slashes. I have seen slashings in Renaissance Faire costumes which were just cut-no binding or stitching. I actually asked someone if they didn't fray and he said no, because they aren't washed, so the slashes hold pretty well. -Original Message- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of E House Sent: Thursday, October 05, 2006 3:42 PM To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: [h-cost] 1520s french headwear--fresh eyes needed I'm working on a replica of the headress worn by Princess Charlotte in this Clouet painting (1522): http://www.formfunction.org/temp/1522clouet-charlotte-de-fra.jpg After much experimentation, I've come up with a pattern I'm reasonably happy with, but I just cannot make up my mind on a few points. If you'll look at this closeup: http://www.formfunction.org/temp/1522clouet-charlotte-detail.jpg you should be able to see each of them. Issue 1: Those slashes The closeup shows each slash with a sort of outline around it, as though each slash were bound with strips of the same fabric the hat's made of, sort of like a bound buttonhole. It seems to me faintly unlikely that they'd go to this much trouble, and I certainly don't want to, but that's the only way I can think of to get that same exact look. The only other options that come to mind are either a) just slash , and let it fray if it will--not too terrible an option, since the luscious heavy silk sateen I have for this is not at all prone to raveling drooldroolbragbrag--or, b) fold back a teeny hem for each slash, and stitch them into place. Ideas? Suggestions? Issue 2: What should the back look like? If you look at the bottom diagonal slash of the bag-like portion, on the other side of the circumference seam it looks a bit like there's a slash on the back that mirrors it. Does anyone else see it? I'm thinking I may just mirror those diagonal slashes around the edge of the back, and leave the center of the back plain, or perhaps decorate the center with pearls. (Yes, I have a ton of glass pearls for the project. This will be one heavy bit of headwear!) I'd love any clever suggestions, though, as I haven't found any great backview shots of this style of headress yet. Issue 3: that blackish semi-circle at the nape of the neck This looks almost like a painter's mistake, or as though the paint has started to flake off to reveal a previous version, or some wierd aborted restoration attempt, or I don't know what; whatever it is, my instinct is that it's not really a part of the headwear. If it were a part of the headwear, the only things I can think of would be a) a poor rendering of the bag's interior, seen in shadow (but I give Clouet way more credit than that!) or b) a netting of some sort. Any ideas as to what on earth it could be? Anyone know more about the history of this painting than I do (ie, more than nothing)? -E House ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
RE: [h-cost] white embroidery
Just out of curiosity, why can't you get flax lace anymore? Is the thread not available, or is no one making it? -Original Message- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Bjarne og Leif Drews Sent: Tuesday, October 03, 2006 1:56 PM To: Historical Costume Subject: Re: [h-cost] white embroidery Dear Ruth, Oh i must say that i really dont know. But i would say that it was not the case. My guess is they just picked up a lace for the pillow after it was embroidered. But you must remember they had many different design laces to choose from, in Denmark f. instance, several thousind lacemakers worked in the south of Jutland near Tonder. The lace has yellowed a little by the age, i think it would have ben more white, when new. I have planned to ask at the lace list, wich kind of lace it is, as i really dont have any expertise with 18th century lace. The feel of that linnen lace, makes me cry, because we cant have that kind of bobbin lace thread in flax anymore. The cotton i use, is much more collapsable and needs a little starch, if i want to have that feeling to it. Bjarne - Original Message - From: Ruth Anne Baumgartner [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: Historical Costume [EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Tuesday, October 03, 2006 9:15 PM Subject: Re: [h-cost] white embroidery The embroidery is exquisite, and I'm thrilled by the way the lace perfectly complements the embroidered motifs. Do you know, would the designer of the embroidery have purposely set out to achieve this effect? --that is, did the selection of the lace precede the designing of the pillowcase? I know you couldn't say for sure of course! but was such a practice customary? --Ruth Anne Baumgartner scholar gypsy and amateur costumer On Oct 3, 2006, at 10:22 AM, Bjarne og Leif Drews wrote: Hi, As i promissed yesterday, i wanted to let you se the wonderfull 18th century pillow case i got as a gift: http://www.my-drewscostumes.dk/pillowcase.htm It needs washing, but ill waite a little with this. Thoaght about using destilled water, and soap flakes. How about ironing after the wash, shouldnt i use a thick towel on the front of the embroidery and iron on the back? As it is the finest linnen you can imagine, i suppose i should be carefull with the ironing... I think i want to frame the pillow case, and hang it where no sun will harm it. Bjarne Leif og Bjarne Drews www.my-drewscostumes.dk http://home0.inet.tele.dk/drewscph/ ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
RE: [h-cost] OT....another Christmas Carol
I would love to have copies if you still have them. Dickens Fair is coming fast. Sharon C. -Original Message- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Ruth Anne Baumgartner Sent: Friday, September 29, 2006 12:10 PM To: Historical Costume Subject: Re: [h-cost] OTanother Christmas Carol My theater did a costumed (impressions only, ca. 1860--no budget!) reading of excerpts from SEVEN Dickens holiday things--Christmas Carol, The Chimes, two of the Sketches by Boz (Christmas Dinner and The New Year), Mr Pickwick's Good Humoured Christmas Chapter, and the description of Christmas preparations in Edwin Drood. We interspersed seasonal music from Dickens' time, including a melodramatic piece he wrote lyrics to called The Ivy Green. VERY good time was had by all, and many said it was a shame that the only Dickens usually mentioned at Christmas was CC. I had flirted with branching out to include Birds' Christmas Carol too--yes, a wonderful tear-jerker--and The Little Match Girl--but one can do only so much, and it was nice to keep the focus on Dickens anyway. I'd be happy to share my script and song list with anyone wanting to recreate a Victorian parlour and present these terrific pieces--hearing them read aloud demonstrates that Dickens wrote for that very possibility--they're very dramatic and lively in the mouth of a good actorseveral of the audience, not relatives, came up and HUGGED the cast members afterward! --Ruth Anne Baumgarter scholar gypsy and amateur costumer On Sep 29, 2006, at 11:58 AM, [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: Speaking of Christmas Carolsas a literary genre... Anyone ever read The Bird's Christmas Carol? I remember it being a real tear jerker from my childhood. It's from the 1890's I believe. Lemme look up the author Kate Douglas Wiggin Whoa! You can read the whole thing here: _http://etext.virginia.edu/etcbin/toccer-new2? id=WigBird.sgmimages=images/mod engdata=/texts/english/modeng/parsedtag=publicpart=teiHeader_ (http://etext.virginia.edu/etcbin/toccer-new2? id=WigBird.sgmimages=images/modengdata=/tex ts/english/modeng/parsedtag=publicpart=teiHeader) Very sentimental. Someone should dramatize and do itjust for a change. ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
RE: [h-cost] need suggestions for campy 18th century costumes
Put them in skirts, but instead of panniers, make fake panniers using half rounds of material. If you put the straight part of the half circle on the selvage, you don't even have to hem. Gather the round edge and if that is too flat, pouf with nylon net, just like you're planning with the wigs. That way, your actors can move easily around crowded tables. Are you making the decorations on the wigs look like pastries and petit fours? For the men, stick them in women's' crop pants. You can probably get them at a thrift store. Since this is fro charity, is there a local tuxedo store that will let you borrow colored jackets? You could whip stitch or even pin on fancy trim and big cuffs. -Original Message- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Allison Sent: Sunday, October 01, 2006 1:32 PM To: h-costume@mail.indra.com Subject: [h-cost] need suggestions for campy 18th century costumes Greetings, all. I am helping with a fundraiser for the March of Dimes. It's a silent auction/live auction/dancing/socializing event, and the theme is Let Them Eat Cake, in the style of Marie Antoinette. Instead of catered dinner, the food will be desserts. So we are trying to play up the frothy, festive, over-the-top attitude. I need to dress about 6 actors in the style, but I want to make the costumes less cumbersome, and hopefully easier to do than real 18C. Please and thank you: I need ideas from all you guys - any suggestions are welcome! Anyhoo - I'm thinking of having my women wear fishnets and dance trunks, and constructing some sort of pannier/skirt to tie around the waist. What movie am I thinking of (or play?) that had panniers made of some king of sparkly tubing, worn without an overskirt? Aaaargh. And how can I make some easy corsets in the same style? I've got $5 long blonde wigs from WalMart which i can build into the extreme style I want, using tulle to add volume. But please put on your thinking caps for the rest of the garb. (I need suggestions for men's garb as well.) TIA from a grateful fellow garbwhore. Allison P. [EMAIL PROTECTED] ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
RE: [h-cost] OT....another Christmas Carol
I remember that one. Yes, a real 3 kleenex story. Sharon C. -Original Message- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of [EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Friday, September 29, 2006 8:59 AM To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: [h-cost] OTanother Christmas Carol Speaking of Christmas Carolsas a literary genre... Anyone ever read The Bird's Christmas Carol? I remember it being a real tear jerker from my childhood. It's from the 1890's I believe. Lemme look up the author Kate Douglas Wiggin Whoa! You can read the whole thing here: _http://etext.virginia.edu/etcbin/toccer-new2?id=WigBird.sgmimages=images/m od engdata=/texts/english/modeng/parsedtag=publicpart=teiHeader_ (http://etext.virginia.edu/etcbin/toccer-new2?id=WigBird.sgmimages=images/m odengdata=/tex ts/english/modeng/parsedtag=publicpart=teiHeader) Very sentimental. Someone should dramatize and do itjust for a change. ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
RE: [h-cost] Coat collar question
Wrapping it under will eliminate the layered look off multiple layers and make it look as if there is only one collar. Also, putting the snaps (or whatever you use to attach it) underneath the existing collar will eliminate the added bulk of said snaps on the edge of the collar. Such bulk would be unattractive, IMHO. One way to do this without a lot of additional bulk would be to make a single collar, original color on one side, new color on the other. That way you eliminate 2 linings. It could attach by snaps, sandwiching the coat between the collar pieces, just like you would make the original collar, but it would be flippable. -Original Message- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of [EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Friday, September 29, 2006 11:47 AM To: Historical Costume Subject: [h-cost] Coat collar question Many of you have done theatrical work, so maybe you can help. A friend wants an addition to a jacket collar, another piece of fabric put on top so the collar (not the lapels) is a different color. Easy enough, right? Except she wants it removeable, sometimes wearing the jacket with the collar, sometimes without. It's another color of wool, not a detachable fur collar or anything like that. I took on the project because I thought she was describing a shoulder stripe. Oops! Anyway, I'm not sure if I should make it a collar that sits on top of the first one, or if it should wrap under. I was thinking of hooks thread loops (so the loops would not be obvious with the collar off). And perhaps snaps on the inside of the neck to anchor it. Is there any set way of doing this so I don't have to think too hard? :-) If it were one of us H-costume people who needed it, we would make the other entire jacket with the colored collar. Oh well... Thank you! -Carol ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
RE: [h-cost] a christmas carol
Can you be more specific about your time? I do Dickens Fair in SF, but we play it about 1850's. If that's OK, I know lots of easy tricks, especially for past 20 feet. Sharon C. -Original Message- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Lyonet Sent: Thursday, September 28, 2006 6:48 AM To: h-costume@mail.indra.com Subject: [h-cost] a christmas carol Greetings, I have been asked to be the head (gulp) of costuming for A Christmas Carol styled play. I know very little about this time period. The costumes only need to past the 20' rule. Are there any big 3 patterns that would work? Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated. Thanks, Lyonet (who would be happy not to be in charge of this venture) ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
RE: [h-cost] Bad historical costume movies
Try www.vermontcountrystore.com -Original Message- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Sylvia Rognstad Sent: Tuesday, September 26, 2006 12:29 PM To: Historical Costume Subject: Re: [h-cost] Bad historical costume movies That's pretty close, except they don't seem to make them small enough for some of my actresses. Thanks. Sylrog On Sep 26, 2006, at 11:59 AM, [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: Is this what you're interested in? http://www.orchardcorset.com/Merchant2/p_G204.html I also recommend a look around the rest of the site as there are many other similar styles to choose from. Karen Seamstrix -- Sylvia Rognstad [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: Speaking of lift and separate bras, does anyone know if Playtex still makes those? I need some 50s looking bras and the closest I could find the last time I was looking was the Playtex variety. Sylrog ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
RE: [h-cost] Bad historical costume movies
The Pirate with Gene Kelly and Judy Garland. -Original Message- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Sylvia Rognstad Sent: Saturday, September 23, 2006 7:30 AM To: Historical Costume Subject: [h-cost] Bad historical costume movies Since we always rant so much about how bad Hollywood does historical costumes in movies, here's a question that ought to get a lot of replies. I am teaching a class in the costume and fashion industries and thought it would be fun to show some clips of costumes from movies, and not just good examples but some really bad ones. For instance, I happened to see on tv a bit of an old movie from the 1950s a couple weeks ago called Princess of the Nile which took place in the Middle East and the costumes were so bad they were really laughable. The women were wearing high spiked heels for instance. So I'm wondering if you all can name some other old movies with really anachronistic or just plain wrong historical costumes. Sylrog ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
RE: [h-cost] Alternative headdress for 1460's houppelande?
How authentic does it have to be? if only quasi- authentic, make a tube, lightly stuffed, with a wire inside (for shaping). Sew ends together and tack on a short or tapered (short in front, longer in back) veil. -Original Message- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Suzi Clarke Sent: Sunday, September 17, 2006 6:15 AM To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: [h-cost] Alternative headdress for 1460's houppelande? I am going to an event in a medieval building in York at the end of this month, and will be wearing a gown similar in style to this one, only in a plain fabric. I have a beautiful horned headdress which fits perfectly, and looks good, again based on the painting, but is a pain in the b*tt to eat in as the veil keeps deciding it's a part of the meal, and gets in my way. http://www.metmuseum.org/toah/ho/08/euwl/ho_1975.1.110.htm Does anyone have any suggestions as to what I could wear instead? A coif is unsuitable as I will be with other people, not in a domestic situation. My hair is very short and needs concealing. Bear in mind please I have two costumes for other people to make in that two weeks, and therefor have zero time to fiddle and make anything elaborate for myself. Oh, and hennins of any shape and size are not me! Suzi ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
RE: [h-cost] Basic medieval costume sources
For easy girls' hats, make a tube of fabric, about 1 diameter with a wire in the middle, stuff it and fit to the head. Sew ends together in back. You can make it round or shape it into a point in front or a horned shape. Attach veil/scarf. Or, for gorget and wimple, wrap scarf under chin, pin at top of head, then use another piece of veiling to go over. Easy biggins can be made from handkerchiefs. -Original Message- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Robin Netherton Sent: Tuesday, September 12, 2006 7:15 AM To: Historical Costume Subject: Re: [h-cost] Basic medieval costume sources On Tue, 12 Sep 2006, Sylvia Rognstad wrote: I got a book a long time ago called Costume Design and Making by Fernald and Shenton that has simple patterns for lots of costumes. It's another Theatre Arts book so it may be very similar to Brookes and it may still be too difficult for parents. Are there any commercial patterns for children for Medieval type costumes? Hmm, good point, forgot about patterns since I don't use them. Surely there's some basic medieval commercial patterns from the big three out there. I'd be happy if I can steer everyone to basic rectalinear tunic styles and some sort of headcovering. They're focusing on c. 1300, so no fairy princess dresses here. --Robin ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
RE: [h-cost] Basic medieval costume sources
Also, Target has mens' pajama bottoms, inexpensive, that can easily be cut down for knee pants. -Original Message- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Robert Pabinquit Sent: Tuesday, September 12, 2006 9:45 AM To: Historical Costume Subject: Re: [h-cost] Basic medieval costume sources Robin, I have done what you are about to do, except I and another person help the students with costuming for a sheakespeare play. atthefaire.com has a pattern link and simplicity has some inexpensive costumes. I also fitted the sudents using resources such as the second stores in the area and wal mart. Wal Mart had womens tights, some sort of stretchy cotton pants, that were $5.00 and worked well as the knee length pants for the guys. Perhaps there are those who could provide some reacy made hand made patterns for you. Robert --- Robin Netherton [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: Here's an uncharacteristic request. I'm going to be speaking to my kid's elementary school class about medieval costume, as part of a big unit they're doing on the Middle Ages. This much I know how to do, and have done before. No problems there. Here's the part I need help with. The class will be putting on an in-class medieval feast at the end of the unit, in about two months. The teachers want the kids to be dressed appropriately. Most of the parents probably don't sew much, and even if they do, they're not going to need or want to take the time and effort to learn about medieval costume, or to spend the money on proper materials. This is supposed to just provide a bit of flavor and color to the festivities. (Think kids' Hallowe'een costume.) The teacher has asked me to provide some basic references on easy medieval costume that the parents can draw on. I am absolutely backed up and can't write my own, although I'll probably offer a list of basic garments and suitable colors. Beyond that, I want to make a list of books and websites that will tell them, essentially, how to make their kid look medieval in an evening or two, with a minimum of expenditure. I've spent so many years steering people away from bad costume books that now I'm having to really probe the recesses of my brain for this one! The source I can think of right off the bat is Medieval Theatre Costume by Iris Brooke, which is really a useful visual introduction for the complete newcomer, and has simple cutting diagrams. (It's also in our library system.) For the people who care about doing it right, I'll point to the reconstructinghistory.com page on beginner garb for a basic tunic, which is a whole lot better than the lie down and draw around yourself T-tunic approach and no harder. Can anyone think of any other useful books or web pages for a parent who simply has to clothe the kid, doesn't need to be particularly authentic, and will have no further use for the costume after one wearing? Surely there are some SCA webpages or kid's costume books out there... --Robin ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume __ Do You Yahoo!? Tired of spam? Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around http://mail.yahoo.com ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
RE: [h-cost] metalic organza, for a pleated frill
I, too, used ribbon with a wire edge, but I left the wire in. Really easy to pleat! -Original Message- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of E House Sent: Monday, September 11, 2006 10:47 AM To: Historical Costume Subject: Re: [h-cost] metalic organza, for a pleated frill I haven't ordered the metallic organza from any of the places you've talked about, but have a couple of comments. First, at FFC we got some metallic silk organza, and had some _rust_ problems with it, so my instinct tells me that a copper metallic content would be a big plus. (Ok, maybe you'll get verdigris problems, but I kind of doubt it.) Second, for the pleated edging on my not-yet-finished headwear, I wound up using some wired-edge metallic gold ribbon from walmart, with the wire pulled out. This left me with a nice clean edge on the frill, with much less bother. (Not the woven foil-looking type, but the woven wire that looks like metallic organza but coarser.) Since the frill from my era is generally much wider than the later 16thC stuff, I used the ~1.5 width, and it worked well, though I wound up having to finger-press the pleats into place. The silk/metallic would probably look better, but since I honestly have no idea what they used (does anyone here know? I do early 16thC, but I expect the material used would be the same as mid/late 16thC) I don't know which choice looks more authentic. -E House ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
RE: [h-cost] Hourly Wages
Yes, our group tries to be as authentic as possible, so it is of silk. -Original Message- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Sue Clemenger Sent: Monday, September 04, 2006 2:17 PM To: Historical Costume Subject: Re: [h-cost] Hourly Wages Also depends on cost of materials, I'd think. Good quality fabrics, beads, trims could get really expensive, really fast. I strongly suspect that the outfit is more along the lines of a couture-level costume, rather than a cheesy, cotton-broadcloth Elizabethan equivalent of a prom dress from Hellmart.g If the person who made that 2K outfit were giving him/herself a base wage of, say, $25/hour, which is probably pretty low for highly skilled custom sewing (I'm basing this purely on what my old employer from a couple of decades ago used as a base to figure costs for the custom sewing jobs I did), that would only be about 80 hours of labor for the entire outfit, assuming that the raw materials' costs were NOT included in the 2K. I've spent that much time just on beading some things, never mind the 100s of hours one can devote to embroidering something. I'll have something like 15 or 16 hundred hours into the embroidered stripes on my Venetian camicia by the time I'm done. --Sue in Montana, enjoying her rare, Labor Day vacation ;o) - Original Message - From: MaggiRos [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: Historical Costume [EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Monday, September 04, 2006 11:37 AM Subject: RE: [h-cost] Hourly Wages Clients in my experience want to know in advance how much they'll be paying, so I set a per-hour rate in my head but quote a flat amount depending on the garment and level of ornamentation--with adjustments for anticipated aggravation, of course. :-) That way I don't have to keep careful watch on the clock, or remember that I work more slowly as the day goes on. Not that I do this for a living, but that's the method I developed when I was sewing for other people. Now it's just a recommendation. $2,000 seems quite high, but jewelling and any handwork does take a lot of time. (That's why I learned to sew, in the end.) I guess it depends on what your market will bear. MaggiRos --- Sharon at Collierfam.com [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: A friend of mine had an Elizabethan court dress and hat made, with removable sleeves and separate underskirt. It was beaded and had a good amount of trim. Quite lovely. I believe she paid about $2,000.00 US. ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
RE: [h-cost] Hourly Wages
A friend of mine had an Elizabethan court dress and hat made, with removable sleeves and separate underskirt. It was beaded and had a good amount of trim. Quite lovely. I believe she paid about $2,000.00 US. -Original Message- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Kathy Page Sent: Sunday, September 03, 2006 1:39 PM To: Historical Costume List Subject: [h-cost] Hourly Wages I was having yet another *coughcough* discussion with my husband on what the typical hourly wages independant costumers make - what they charge out at for high end work - full suites of clothing, custom designed, in part or fully assembled by machine, complete with embellishments. He seems to think I am on cheap crack, however I have looked into it through employment statistics in my province and country, and have kept a quiet eye on the discussions in the past here and I believe that I am on track for a 5 year plan of establishing my reputation and credibility. He is a frustrating insta-boing type, thinking I should be able to name whatever I please with no justification behind the price tag. Could I run a survey on what those interested and willing to offer cannon fodder on this discussion charge out for work roughly described above, and the currency it is typically quoted at, so I can compare apples to apples? If it seems like a private subject, please feel free to reply offlist. Thanks for anyone willing to save my sanity, Kathy Ermine, a lion rampant tail nowed gules charged on the shoulder with a rose Or barbed, seeded, slipped and leaved vert(Fieldless) On a rose Or barbed vert a lion's head erased gules. Its never too late to be who you might have been. -George Eliot Tosach eólais imchomarc. - Questioning is the beginning of knowledge. http://www.sengoidelc.com/node/131 ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
RE: What would *you* use? (was Re: [h-cost] Racinet
By then, it will probably be on disc, so much more portable. :-) -Original Message- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of monica spence Sent: Thursday, August 31, 2006 5:53 AM To: Historical Costume Subject: RE: What would *you* use? (was Re: [h-cost] Racinet The problem with costume books is that they are all too general. If you want to see the most artwork-- use Davenport. However, the book is in BW, the pics are small and the text is gossipy. If you are looking for specific periods , a how to : The Janet Arnold books, Norah Waugh, The Tudor Tailor, The Medieval Tailor's assistant, the Jean Hunniset books. They have various degrees of historical accuracy. For the various periods, there are specialty books like Queen Elizabeth's Wardrobe Unlo'ked, Moda di Firenze, Hispanic Costume, etc. Very specific time periods. A pretty good source for life and times is the Time-Life series: What life was like Loaded with color pics and decent short essays. The Tortora/ Eubanks book does not have nearly enough color pics. (We use that as the new text where I teach) One day there will be the perfect textbook. It will weigh 100lbs and cost $2000. :-) Monica Spence -- Cathy Raymond [EMAIL PROTECTED] A civilized society is one which tolerates eccentricity to the point of doubtful sanity. --Robert Frost ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
RE: What would *you* use? (was Re: [h-cost] Racinet
What do you all think of Historic Costume for the Stage, by Lucy Barton? Sharon C. -Original Message- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Dawn Luckham Sent: Thursday, August 31, 2006 5:57 AM To: h-costume@mail.indra.com Subject: RE: What would *you* use? (was Re: [h-cost] Racinet I just finished a college level program that used Survey of Historic Costume: A History of Western Dress by Phyllis G. Tortora, Keith Eubank. It's current and it brushes past history and costume, combining social and political influences. As someone who was already very interested in historic costume before I took the class, I must admit, I found this book vague and well, lacking. My favourite for teaching a class on Historic Costume would be 20,000 Years of Fashion by Francois Boucher. I like the text and I like that it is full of art that illustrates style. Dawn Luckham ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
RE: What would *you* use? (was Re: [h-cost] Racinet
OK, so try Historic Costume for the Stage by Lucy Barton. Since it concerns the basic look or silhouette for stage productions, it may be just what you're looking for. -Original Message- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Sylvia Rognstad Sent: Friday, September 01, 2006 10:25 PM To: Historical Costume Subject: Re: What would *you* use? (was Re: [h-cost] Racinet I think that there are a lot of very good experts in historical costuming on this list who may very rightly feel that it is almost impossible to cover all periods in one book and I agree to an extent. It's just that I keep hearing that over and over after I've explained that I'm teaching a class in the costume and fashion industries and can only devote a very small segment of the time to costume history. Next semester when I'm teaching a class just in costume history naturally I will use more resources, but now I'm just trying to provide a good overview and I myself don't have time to pore over lots of books to review my own understanding. I only found out I was teaching the class 2 weeks before it started. Sylrog On Sep 1, 2006, at 10:30 PM, Catherine Olanich Raymond wrote: On Saturday 02 September 2006 12:56 am, Sylvia Rognstad wrote: Since nobody seems to think there is one really good textbook, maybe I'll consider writing one myself! Of course they are all too general to people like us who specialize in historical costumes, but sometime you really need just a good overview, which is what I need now. Well, but hold on. How much information do you think constitutes a good overview? What would you like to see in such a book? Maybe such a book exists, but none of us understands what you're looking for so we don't know how to respond. -- Cathy Raymond [EMAIL PROTECTED] A civilized society is one which tolerates eccentricity to the point of doubtful sanity. --Robert Frost ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
RE: [h-cost] filigree metal plaques...
Thank you! -Original Message- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Natalie Sent: Tuesday, August 22, 2006 5:28 AM To: Historical Costume Subject: Re: [h-cost] filigree metal plaques... Here you go, Sharon. Natalie - Original Message - From: Melanie Schuessler To: Historical Costume Sent: Wednesday, May 17, 2006 11:57 AM Subject: Re: [h-cost] filigree metal plaques... I've used some from these pages before: http://www.natures-gems.com/mefi.html http://www.natures-gems.com/plgo.html They're thin enough that you can bend them if you try, but I have a girdle and carcanet made from some with glass pearls in between, and they've held up for years. Melanie Schuessler Melody Watts wrote: Hi, Does anyone know where you can purchase filigree metal plaques for making a Tudor / Elizabethan girdle? I'd like to be able to glue stones to the plaques to dress them up. I know there are people selling these girdles premade, so they have to be getting them from somewhere. Thanks Melody - Love cheap thrills? Enjoy PC-to-Phone calls to 30+ countries for just 2¢/min with Yahoo! Messenger with Voice. ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
RE: [h-cost] Jewelry plaques?
Thank you! -Original Message- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Elizabeth Walpole Sent: Tuesday, August 22, 2006 7:38 PM To: Historical Costume Subject: Re: [h-cost] Jewelry plaques? - Original Message - From: Sharon at Collierfam.com [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: h-costume@mail.indra.com Sent: Tuesday, August 22, 2006 10:11 AM Subject: [h-cost] Jewelry plaques? Someone within the past few months posted a link to a place that sells jewelry findings, especially flat plaques, in filigree-ish styles, etc. I've lost the link. Please, if you know where I can get these, let me know. Thank you, Sharon C. snip was this what you were looking for? http://www.fancifulsinc.com/mall/lobby.htm it's got a larger selection than the one Melanie posted but the descriptions aren't as detailed. Elizabeth ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
[h-cost] Jewelry plaques?
Someone within the past few months posted a link to a place that sells jewelry findings, especially flat plaques, in filigree-ish styles, etc. I've lost the link. Please, if you know where I can get these, let me know. Thank you, Sharon C. Young lovers seek perfection, Old lovers learn the art of sewing shreds together And of seeing beauty in a multiplicity of patches - How To Make An American Quilt ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
RE: [h-cost] Introduction
Welcome. Got pictures? -Original Message- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Gilbert Sent: Friday, August 18, 2006 5:07 PM To: Historical Costume Subject: [h-cost] Introduction I am a new member who has been lurking a few days. Wow, this is a great list! I am a historical novelist/stay-at-home-mom/costume enthusiast from Maine who is currently making an Empire gown, thanks to Janet Arnold. Other projects included a Spencer from the same volume (_Patterns of Fashion 1, Englishwomen's dresses and their construction, c 1660 - 1860_) and a c 1936 gown from Volume 2 of the series. I got inspired to dive into such projects because of a wonderful costume designer, Hilary Derby (or Darby--I can't quite remember) who created lovely costumes for the Theater at Monmouth, in Monmouth, Maine (the Shakespearian Theater of Maine). Thank you for letting me be a member of this list! Marjorie Marjorie Gilbert author of THE RETURN, a historical novel set in Georgian England www.marjoriegilbert.net Creating a Circa 1798 - 1805 Empire Gown http://marjoriegilbert.net/album_30_028.htm ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
RE: [h-cost] illustrator vs fashion historian
(My personal favorite one-period-interprets-another is the early 1920s doing American colonial 1770s, complete with the dropped early-20s waist. I actively collect examples of this.) I saw a perfectly hideous example of a renaissance dress, as interpreted by a 1950's costumer,and don't forget Julie Christie's hair in Dr. Zhivago. Sharon -Original Message- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Carolyn Kayta Barrows Sent: Tuesday, August 15, 2006 2:54 AM To: Historical Costume Subject: Re: [h-cost] illustrator vs fashion historian But isn't a fashion historian a modern construct, and by definition one who looks at the past and not the present? You've got your definition about right, but no, fashion historian is not a modern construct. There have been fashion historians since at least the mid-1800s, if we include the folks like Violet-le-Duc and Köhler who produced those Victorian costume books we now laugh at as inaccurate Victorian re-drawings. Heck - Vecellio was something of a fashion historian in the late-1500s-early-1600s, in his own way, and Dover has reprinted the book of his on which I'm basing that opinion. These are the giants on whose shoulders folks like Janet Arnold stood. And isn't your critiscism/clarification of Kate Greenway BTW, I don't criticize Kate Greenaway's work for what it isn't, rather I love it for what it is. equally applicable to the people who design stuff for Hot Topic and other alternative fashion? Basically, i'm confused as to why you would point out the difference We use her work to document something which is, from a 2006 perspective, historical, but she didn't set out to do historical when she was working, and neither do the designers from Hot Topic. Both were/are designing to their contemporary markets. And yes, some of her stuff shows people in historically based costumery. That makes them historical examples of how a person of her period interpreted these other periods. But that doesn't make her a costume historian, only an illustrator putting historical clothes on some of her models. And she might well have gone to the books of costume historians of her day to get her examples. (My personal favorite one-period-interprets-another is the early 1920s doing American colonial 1770s, complete with the dropped early-20s waist. I actively collect examples of this.) -- surely there aren't fashion historians out there, slavishly trying to document 2005! Ah, but there are. That's why folks like the VA and Metropolitan Museum haven't stopped collecting currently fashionable garments. They're storing these things now for the historians many years in the future who will thank them for having done so. Consider, we would have more historical garments now if people in the past had specifically done this for us. Most people don't realize that what they're wearing right now, like as they're reading this e-mail, will be considered historical 100 years from now. And that some theatre costumer or historical researcher then would kill for a photo or actual example of it. Scarey, huh? Of course, it is great to know that Kate Greenway represents the tastes of a minor group :-) ...those aforementioned Aesthetics, some of whom dressed very much like what her illustrations show. (if I were more awake, I'd try to form this into some better question/argument about what IS a good source, if not a commercial illustrator who depicts the style of HER group at HER time!) If you mean is she a source for what her group was wearing, you're right, just like Vogue Magazine will continue to be a good source for whatever style it is they document every month. But Vogue doesn't set out to document history, it's just that back issues of it are used by historians who do. CarolynKayta Barrows dollmaker, fibre artist, textillian www.FunStuft.com ///\ -@@\\\ 7 ))) )(( ))( * ) ( * /\ /---\ ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
RE: [h-cost] straight front corset
Don't know of a pattern, but know of a supplier. -Original Message- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Zuzana Kraemerova Sent: Thursday, August 03, 2006 8:04 AM To: h-costume Subject: [h-cost] straight front corset Hi all, does anyone know a good pattern of a 1900-1909 straight front corset? Something like this one: http://www.marquise.de/database/dbout.php?name=k1902_1pfad=1900 ... Not too long over the hips. I'd welcome a pattern which would fit on a modern figure but giving it the S-shape and a slim waist. Many thanks, Zuzana - Yahoo! Music Unlimited - Access over 1 million songs.Try it free. ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
RE: [h-cost] Re: h-costume Digest, Vol 5, Issue 554
I have borrowed both costumes and props for years. I always return everything in good condition, if not,I pay for it. It always amazes me how some companies mis-treat borrowed items. It is so very unprofessional and gets the company a bad reputation. Soon, no one will loan anything to them. It just takes organization, something I would have thought a professional filming company would be good at. Go figure. -Original Message- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Jane Pease Sent: Sunday, July 30, 2006 6:03 PM To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: [h-cost] Re: h-costume Digest, Vol 5, Issue 554 Albert said: That is all well and good. But this REAL P's of the C thing was 98% reenactments. I mean it was the whole shebang. And for the reenactments to be so important AND the costuming to be so bad...I mean more than bad...completely unprofessional! Well, there no excuse. That's my point, really __ Gotta chime in here. The re-enactors were the foot soldiers; they were responsible for their own clothing, which represents many research hours and many dollars to get authenticity to the highest level possible. Take a look at the battle and seige scenes in The Southern Strategy episode and the upcoming ones depicting the war in the South. I believe you will be hard pressed to find fault with the clothing worn by the soldiers (except for that guy with the cigarette in the first episode--don't know where HE came from,). As one who was there during the filming of the Charleston scenes (if you look reeeaaallly fast, you can see my brown silk taffeta sacqueback in some of the dance clips), I can attest to the importance attached to getting the clothing, arms, and camps as close to authentic as possible. I think the ones you are finding fault with are the named characters, who are paid actors and costumed by the production company. The company is interested in a good scene, and if it happens to have good costuming (darned few and far between in this production) that is a chance happening. To their credit, the production company made an effort at authenticity by hiring as a consultant a well-respected re-enactor / scholar to advise them on the military scenes and clothing. He was extremely frustrated because, talk though he might, they weren't interested if it did not fit their idea of the scene. To my knowledge, neither he nor anyone else advised about the costuming of the paid cast. There couldn't have been anyone--otherwise they would not all be running around with (Jo-Ann) lace jabots and dead cats on their heads. Several re-enactors lent or rented clothing or firearms to the productiion company. When--if--they got them back, the items had been very poorly treated and in some cases ruined (despite the costuming departments promises to the contrary, spray-on stage dirt IS permanent). On the other hand, there are some interesting touches. One re-enactor, a member of the group which portrays the Coldstream Guards, let them use his officer's dress coat, which a documented copy of a Guards coat of the war period,. So far it has turned up on both General Burgoyne and General Clinton. He is sure that Clinton must be spinning in his grave, to have been seen in a Guards uniform. Keep an eye out for further sightings--the Guards uniform was more elaborate than many of the uniforms worn by the AWI generals. So you will know the coat--it is the one with all the gold braid. Jane Pease ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
RE: [h-cost] little note.................
I showed my daughter the pictures of your waistcoat and she echoed my sentiments exactly, Oh, my god, gorgeous!. As always, your work is exquisite and an inspiration to the rest of us. Glad you're feeling better. We've been having unusually hot weather here, also. I got out my hand fan and am carrying it with me. Really helps! Sharon C. -Original Message- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Bjarne og Leif Drews Sent: Sunday, July 30, 2006 12:17 PM To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: [h-cost] little note. Just a little note that i am back on the list. 1.st i want to appoligise to all of you who conserned about me, it is very nice and very warm that you consern about me. I am well, but i must admit that i have to gear down on myself, because mostly i get two familiar and also two envoved in everything. Update is that i have struggled with myself, i am getting better now, but i really have to stop being two familliar with you guys, its something i have to learn. I hope that its ben very booring while i have ben away, god knows its ben very boring here, and damned two hot, Europe has had one of the badest summers heatwise, we still have, and i pray it soon gets away. I must tell you costume wise, that a very important exhibition is taking place in Copenhagen by all places in September, showing court fashions of men from 17th century to 18th century. The earlyest Banyan 17th century is shown amungst many other unique things. In the meanwhile i have almost finished my yellow waistcoat, i only need to assemble it to the backs, buttonholes and buttons worked: http://www.my-drewscostumes.dk/2006suit.htm And i hired Derek Easton to make me this wig: http://www.my-drewscostumes.dk/wig.htm He made it, only i think he made the chignon two small, you will have to waite a little to see it, i have it but i need to take a photo with powdered face.. Bjarne Leif og Bjarne Drews www.my-drewscostumes.dk http://home0.inet.tele.dk/drewscph/ ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
RE: [h-cost] amusing fashion plates
Sir Walter Raleigh gave her a frog pin, maybe that's supposed to be him. -Original Message- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Kimiko Small Sent: Friday, July 28, 2006 9:56 PM To: Historical Costume Subject: Re: [h-cost] amusing fashion plates Any idea what Queen Elizabeth is supposed to be, animal wise? I am not sure if it is a tortoise or what. But I do like the Froggy courtier. And I like Henry VIII and Jane Seymour. I like some others as well, but those are what I am involved in. Kimiko Dawn [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: Silly, very silly, animals in historic clothing: http://www.mydeskcity.com/DZFG20.htm I think they're desktops. Dawn ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume - Yahoo! Messenger with Voice. Make PC-to-Phone Calls to the US (and 30+ countries) for 2¢/min or less. ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
RE: [h-cost] amusing fashion plates
Alencon? -Original Message- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of [EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Saturday, July 29, 2006 6:54 AM To: Historical Costume Subject: RE: [h-cost] amusing fashion plates IIRC, The Frog is the prince or king or royal someone of France that she was supposedly being 'courted' by. Never came to anything, since she had no intention of ever marrying... I'm sure someone on this list can get the french royalty' name I can't seem to remember right now. Elena/Gia -- Original message -- From: Sharon at Collierfam.com [EMAIL PROTECTED] Sir Walter Raleigh gave her a frog pin, maybe that's supposed to be him. -Original Message- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Kimiko Small Sent: Friday, July 28, 2006 9:56 PM To: Historical Costume Subject: Re: [h-cost] amusing fashion plates Any idea what Queen Elizabeth is supposed to be, animal wise? I am not sure if it is a tortoise or what. But I do like the Froggy courtier. And I like Henry VIII and Jane Seymour. I like some others as well, but those are what I am involved in. Kimiko Dawn wrote: Silly, very silly, animals in historic clothing: http://www.mydeskcity.com/DZFG20.htm I think they're desktops. Dawn ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume - Yahoo! Messenger with Voice. Make PC-to-Phone Calls to the US (and 30+ countries) for 2¢/min or less. ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
RE: [h-cost] Theatre sale in Australia
If the date is correct, it's already happened. Must have been fascinating, though. Like going to a museum where you can touch. -Original Message- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Betsy Marshall Sent: Thursday, July 27, 2006 11:15 AM To: 'Historical Costume' Subject: [h-cost] Theatre sale in Australia http://www.theage.com.au/articles/2004/07/13/1089694357136.html?from=storyrh s anybody we know going to this? Betsy (in too far away texas) ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
RE: [h-cost] OT - Thai fisherman type trousers: what do you maketowear in the heat?
I make baggy pants like the 2nd pattern offered, and I love them. I get to buy wild fabric and wear it almost immediately, as I make them with no side seam, just the crotch and center seams. Better than a tablecloth, which is what I did with wild fabric in the past. Also extremely comfortable. I put elastic in mine, but my daughter prefers a drawstring. -Original Message- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Betsy Marshall Sent: Thursday, July 27, 2006 11:22 AM To: 'Historical Costume' Subject: RE: [h-cost] OT - Thai fisherman type trousers: what do you maketowear in the heat? This might help a bit.. http://www.mediatinker.com/blog/archives/008262.html -Original Message- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of katherine sanders Sent: Thursday, July 27, 2006 11:43 AM To: h-costume@mail.indra.com Subject: [h-cost] OT - Thai fisherman type trousers: what do you make towear in the heat? OK, this is not /strictly/ historic - although I could argue they're 'traditional' ;-) Anyway, I'm trying to adapt a Burda pattern to be more like traditional thai fisherman 'wrap' trousers, which are open at the outer sides (and therefore cooler to wear and hang nicely) and wondered if anyone had tried making a pair based on originals they had purchased perhaps on holiday. The thing I'm a bit unclear on is how the ties work around the waist, to hold them up and fit them at the waist: the Burda pattern is a bit tailored whereas the originals are 'free-size'. I found a few references on the web, in case you've no idea what I'm talking about. http://www.thiptop.co.uk/index.php?page=trousers-split http://www.thaicraftwarehouse.com/tcwProduct.php?fashid=9329 Anyway, what are other people making to cope with this seasonably toasty weather? Katherine A positive attitude may not solve all of your problems, but it will annoy enough people to make it worth the effort - Herm Albright ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
RE: new Simplicity Patterns (was RE: [h-cost] free Regencybonnetpattern from Simplicity
I love the Authentic renaissance costume, which has curved bodice seams. AAACK! -Original Message- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of otsisto Sent: Wednesday, July 26, 2006 1:03 PM To: Historical Costume Subject: RE: new Simplicity Patterns (was RE: [h-cost] free Regencybonnetpattern from Simplicity Interesting hat. It looks like the model is trying to be Christopher Colombus. De -Original Message- Susan B. Farmer wrote: There's a men's Renaissance 4059 Is that Long Thing (tm) supposed to be an Elizabethan Skirted Doublet? It *does* have a waist seam . Really bizarre . It reminds me more of an early Tudor doublet. Or maybe the cuffs and breeches are supposed to be baroque. Either way, I agree it looks odd. Dawn ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
RE: [h-cost] Flat Caps- was there a response in there?
The basic flat cap pattern I use is 3 circles with centers removed (for the brim and underneath part, kind of like a doughnut shape) and one solid circle for the top. From what I could see of the picture , the cap you want seems to turn up on the brim.(?) If so, take wedges out of the 3 doughnuts so they don't lie flat, but make a 3-D shape, like a lampshade. Make sure you interface well, so it doesn't droop. Does this help? -Original Message- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Susan B. Farmer Sent: Saturday, July 22, 2006 9:38 AM To: Historical Costume Subject: Re: [h-cost] Flat Caps- was there a response in there? Quoting Catalina Elvira Osorio Lopez de Xerez [EMAIL PROTECTED]: I am still looking for a pattern for a flat cap that would end up looking like the one in the 1535 portrait of Dona Ana Mauriquez. http://www.artnet.com/Images/magazine/features/jeromack/jeromack10-31- 2s.jpg *cool* painting! I've never seen that one before. Anyway, best source for hat patterns that I know of is Lynn McMasters http://lynnmcmasters.com/patterns.html susan - Susan Farmer [EMAIL PROTECTED] University of Tennessee Department of Ecology and Evolutionary Biology http://www.goldsword.com/sfarmer/Trillium/ ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
RE: [h-cost] Charging for sewing
I'm in CA, too, But my group's budget usually ran approx. $2500 per show, so it was essentially gas money. -Original Message- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of H_Costume Sent: Friday, July 21, 2006 11:24 AM To: Historical Costume Subject: Re: [h-cost] Charging for sewing I charge by the hour- $12.50 for straight sewing, $25 for hand work, and pattern drafting. Then I go through and make a pretty accurate estimate of hours and come up with what it's worth. Usually I then negotiate a fee I'm willing to take for the straight stuff. I don't negotiate on hand work (beading, etc). If folks want that, then they have to pay for it. I too come from community regional theater, where costumers are not paid nearly enough (stipends range from $1200-2000, but I'm in California). The problem as I see it is the genesis of the craft. The public still thinks of it as womans' work. I constantly run into people who upon hearing that I sew, say something like Oh, can you make me a dress? rapidly followed up with how much cheaper it must be to get something made by a friend. Anyone else notice how quickly acquantanceship turns to friendship when folks want a discount :) I quickly dissilusion them, letting them know hand made clothes are more akin to couture than discount ready to wear. It's a process, but I think politely pointing out the craftsmanship and the one-of-a-kind aspect quickly justifies the pricing in people's minds. Most decide they cant' afford it, but I'm cool with that too. angela + Angela F. Lazear Cabbage Rose Costumes Theatrical Costume Design Love all, trust a few, do wrong to none: be able for thine enemy rather in power than use, and keep thy friend under thy own life's key: be checked for silence, but never taxed for speech... All's Well That Ends Well 1.1.65-6, Countess to Bertram W. Shakespeare http://www.cabbagerosecostumes.com - Original Message - From: Sharon at Collierfam.com [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: h-costume@mail.indra.com Sent: Thursday, July 20, 2006 9:10 PM Subject: [h-cost] Charging for sewing Dear Listees, I have been asked by some folks to make some costumes for them. Problem is, I've only worked in community theatre before and that doesn't pay anything (about $300 per show). For those of you that do sewing as a business, how much do you charge for sewing? Do you charge by the job or the hour? Any help in this would be greatly appreciated. Sharon C. Young lovers seek perfection, Old lovers learn the art of sewing shreds together And of seeing beauty in a multiplicity of patches - How To Make An American Quilt ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
[h-cost] pricing
Thank you to all who have responded. This gives me an idea of how to figure pricing. Sharon Young lovers seek perfection, Old lovers learn the art of sewing shreds together And of seeing beauty in a multiplicity of patches - How To Make An American Quilt ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
[h-cost] Charging for sewing
Dear Listees, I have been asked by some folks to make some costumes for them. Problem is, I've only worked in community theatre before and that doesn't pay anything (about $300 per show). For those of you that do sewing as a business, how much do you charge for sewing? Do you charge by the job or the hour? Any help in this would be greatly appreciated. Sharon C. Young lovers seek perfection, Old lovers learn the art of sewing shreds together And of seeing beauty in a multiplicity of patches - How To Make An American Quilt ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
RE: Prefixes for headers? (was: Re: [h-cost] The delete button...)
Not being a computer person, I don't know if this is possible: When you have a reply to a post, whether it is a contribution or just a compliment, would it be possible to make the computer automatically put a reply notice in the topic window, along with the original topic line? -Original Message- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Lavolta Press Sent: Monday, July 17, 2006 10:15 PM To: Historical Costume Subject: Re: Prefixes for headers? (was: Re: [h-cost] The delete button...) Can we kill this discussion? There's nothing wrong with this list. If something comes up that you don't want to read, don't read it. If you accidentally read something you find to be a waste of time, well boo hoo! Who here has spent any significant amount of time reading such things? Like many other people on the list, there are _some_ messages you don't want to process at all--or you would not ask to have a discussion killed instead of just ignoring those messages. I understand. I feel the same way. When it became clear that people had different ideas about which discussions are irrelevant and uninteresting, I proposed the idea of filters to see what people thought of it. Some like the idea, some don't. OK. Any inference (not yours, I know) that I'm trying to take over h-costume or impose standards on everyone by making such a suggestion is absurd--it's not even technically possible. So, now we can all go back to flaming each other and asking for discussions to be killed whenever =someone gets bored. Fran Lavolta Press http://www.lavoltapress.com ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
RE: [h-cost] Really OT! But too funny....
Wonderful! -Original Message- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Lavolta Press Sent: Thursday, July 13, 2006 12:32 PM To: Historical Costume Subject: Re: [h-cost] Really OT! But too funny It's on some websites, including: http://face.centosprime.com/wordpress/2004/08/25/2004-bulwer-lytton-contest- winners/ http://www2.sjsu.edu/depts/english/2004.htm Fran E House wrote: - Original Message - From: Lavolta Press [EMAIL PROTECTED] I won the Children's Literature category in 2004, which was the first time I entered ... So what was your winning opening line? My mind, it inquires. -E House ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
RE: [h-cost] Re:bjarne
Depression stinks. I recently got on some anti-depression medication. I wasn't aware that I was depressed, it was my husband who noticed. It hasn't been a huge change-just less feeling blue. Bjarne, if you come to California, I'll drag you to the Renaissance Faire-- another time for you to try!! Sharon -Original Message- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Mia Dappert Sent: Thursday, July 06, 2006 9:23 AM To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: [h-cost] Re:bjarne This is not really like you... and I echo what Ruth Anne said. I also am prone to DEPRESSION The blackdog. It has many names... and I'm not talking the blues. And burn out can be a close cousin too. First check that there is no semi-hidden physical cause. Didn't you just have an operation? are you still taking meds? sometimes this can have an effect that you don't even realize. Are you getting enough sleep? Is it real sleep? Aren't you in an area where it's daylight almost constantly right now? Then move on to the so-call mental cause (although I think that this is really a physical cause too. Physical depression is an illness, like diabetes or a broken leg.) professionals will help with medication, if necessary, talk therapy if necessary and retraining you brain not to be drepessed (almost always necessary) If it's burn out (minor or major cases) you got alot of good advice. (I'm listening in because this is a good support system. And I don't have an extended family to listen too. And I have too much of a tendancy to be a burnt out middle aged woman.) remember that we all love you, and stand here around the world, on the internet, for you if you need us. Sometime your family is not what you're born with, but what you end up with. Think of us all as long-distance cousins!!! We will keep proding you This is Mia in Charlotte...you're always welcome here, it's ungodly hot right now, 90s with ozone alerts, beacuse we lazy american are drivning all over the place. And Ruth Anne, I'm probably in the same age range as you. I consiously cultivate younger friends so when the older ones leave us I'll still have a bit of support...My grandmother taught me this. Thank you all for all the advice and support Mia in Charlotte, NC - Sneak preview the all-new Yahoo.com. It's not radically different. Just radically better. ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
RE: [h-cost] What do you do?
Go see your doctor--it sounds like you're depressed! If you really do not want your costumes, consider donating/selling them to a theatre group or movie costume company. Of course, if they are your costumes, Bjarne, perhaps a museum would like them for items people can handle when the old ones are too fragile. Sharon -Original Message- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Bjarne og Leif Drews Sent: Wednesday, July 05, 2006 12:21 PM To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: [h-cost] What do you do? What do you do when you finally realise you dont want to reenact anymore, and when your costumes gets bored to look at? When alll your reenactment friends leaves you, and your family two? What is left then? Bjarne Leif og Bjarne Drews www.my-drewscostumes.dk http://home0.inet.tele.dk/drewscph/ ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
RE: [h-cost] What do you do?
Oops, I forgot this one. You could teach. You do such fantastic work, perhaps you could teach others how to do what you do. Some people might not want to be re-enactors, but would like to learn just because they enjoy creating a thing of beauty. Or go dancing, that always cheers me up. Sharon -Original Message- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Bjarne og Leif Drews Sent: Wednesday, July 05, 2006 12:21 PM To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: [h-cost] What do you do? What do you do when you finally realise you dont want to reenact anymore, and when your costumes gets bored to look at? When alll your reenactment friends leaves you, and your family two? What is left then? Bjarne Leif og Bjarne Drews www.my-drewscostumes.dk http://home0.inet.tele.dk/drewscph/ ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
RE: [h-cost] Judging costume contest? Help!
You could have multiple small awards--for best shoes, best hat, etc. both male and female and an overall best look for the final. If it is a small group, have one for each, silly is fine. For bigger group, do multiple, maybe 5 or 10. -Original Message- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of [EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Saturday, July 01, 2006 5:21 PM To: h-costume@mail.indra.com Subject: [h-cost] Judging costume contest? Help! Our local Habitat for Humanity affiliate is having a theme party fundraiser, 20s/30s era, and is planning a costume contest. The tickets are sold to the general public and fancy dress is optional, so pretty much anything goes. We need help with the logistics of it. Should guests have to sign up for the contest, should we just choose someone from the crowd and announce it, how should we handle it? We really need to make it fun and so that no one's hurt or embarrassed. (These are guests who are donating $ and playing games, not a serious special interest group.) Has anyone ever been involved in something like this? Any ideas or suggestions are most welcome, thanks! Melissa - Want to be your own boss? Learn how on Yahoo! Small Business. ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
RE: [h-cost] finished left side of the waistcoat
It is stunning! I wish I could see it in person. Hope Tivoli was fun. Sharon -Original Message- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Bjarne og Leif Drews Sent: Sunday, July 02, 2006 5:25 AM To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: [h-cost] finished left side of the waistcoat I just finished the left side of the waistcoat with spangels. Took me 2 weeks to make, i promised to update, when finished.. http://www.my-drewscostumes.dk/cel.htm I am now taking a break and goes a trip to Tivoli in Copenhagen, have a nice coffe and a big cake :-) Bjarne Leif og Bjarne Drews www.my-drewscostumes.dk http://home0.inet.tele.dk/drewscph/ ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
RE: [h-cost] Overdyeing with tan--Thanks--also discount fabrics
Berkeley, CA? -Original Message- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Lavolta Press Sent: Friday, June 30, 2006 12:36 PM To: Historical Costume Subject: Re: [h-cost] Overdyeing with tan--Thanks--also discount fabrics Thanks to Melanie and everyone. I suppose it's time to try it. After I do my next two loads of stuff I'm dyeing for the first time, I'll start experimenting with softening some of the overly bright warm colors I did. (My husband keeps saying he wants to have fun with the dye jobs and considering some of his ideas, I have to keep telling him he's only allowed to have safe fun.) I have, BTW, occasionally dyed white cotton lace by making coffee too strong to drink and soaking the lace in it in a bowl till it was about the right color. However, this was for things that won't be washed a lot. Tea produces a pinker brown than coffee, and I don't like that color as much. Quilters can get away with using it a lot because quilts don't usually get washed often. BTW, I went to the dentist in Berkeley a couple days ago, and the big Discount Fabrics there is having a moving sale. Signs all over. I didn't have time to go in, but I have to go back on Monday and maybe I can make it then. Fran Lavolta Press http://www.lavoltapress.com Melanie Schuessler wrote: Lavolta Press wrote: I'd prefer these colors darker rather than lighter. Then adding dye rather than dye remover is what you want. Do you think for an ecru overdye 10% of our usual amount would be good? I would say try it. If it doesn't do enough, do it again with more. 10% is a very safe amount--I definitely don't think it would be too much. Good luck, Melanie ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
RE: [h-cost] Link costume (sorta historical-ish)
My son has the game and showed me a picture. He wears a simple hat, like a wizard hat without a brim. A white long sleeved shirt. White pants/leggings. A green tunic/doublet, very simple, collarless, but with a collar effect created by having the neckline of the doublet fall open in a V. It also has short straight (not gathered) sleeves. He has brown boots, brown gloves, and a brown belt. To my mind, it looks very much like a Robin Hood kind of simple tunic/doublet. It should be easy to do without a pattern. Do you need a picture? I could send one. Sharon -Original Message- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of [EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Friday, June 23, 2006 6:06 PM To: Historical Costume Subject: Re: [h-cost] Link costume (sorta historical-ish) Just goes to show how old I am...when I saw this title I was thinking a groovy Afro and bellbottoms. Margo - Original Message - From: Susan B. Farmer [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: 'Historical Costume' [EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Friday, June 23, 2006 5:37 PM Subject: [h-cost] Link costume (sorta historical-ish) My son wants the green tunic that the character Link wears in the Legends of Zelda video games. He knows it's not authentic, but it's *fun* Has anybody seen anything about it on the net? I've googled to no avail -- I'm having minimal luck even trying to find a good picture of the dang thing! Thanks, susan - Susan Farmer [EMAIL PROTECTED] University of Tennessee Department of Ecology and Evolutionary Biology http://www.goldsword.com/sfarmer/Trillium/ ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
RE: [h-cost] silver foil tape for Paillons?
Try tracing the shape with a ballpoint pen. Press hard, while working on a padded surface. Then cut on the lines. You can also color the metal, my kids use permanent markers, gives a nice translucent, jewel-like look. Sharon -Original Message- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Bjarne og Leif Drews Sent: Friday, June 23, 2006 6:48 AM To: Historical Costume Subject: Re: [h-cost] silver foil tape for Paillons? Hi Heather, Thanks for your valuable informations. I went to a craftstore, after work today, and found stainless steel plates. They are just the thickness i want. I just cut out a flower with my scissors, worked ok, but it is a little difficult. Then i hammered holes with a nail and hammer, worked fine two. Its very difficult to draw the shape to the steel because it goes away when i touch with my fingers, but i thoaght about tracing the flower to painting tape, wich i then will take over the steel, and then cut out. Then remove the tape after. I can imagine it is better to stamp out the shapes, but i want a particular shape, because i want the same as an embroidered suit has, guess my skills will improve with the numbers i make. Thanks a lot for your help Heather... Bjarne - Original Message - From: heather jones [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: Historical Costume [EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Friday, June 23, 2006 5:29 AM Subject: Re: [h-cost] silver foil tape for Paillons? On Jun 22, 2006, at 12:16 PM, Bjarne og Leif Drews wrote: Hi, In recreating materials found in 18th century embroidery, i thoaght i might could use this for shaped spangels or Paillons as they were called. These were cut from silver plates, and often vernished in different shining collours. I would like to try it. Does any of you know this material? Is it hard to cut out, can you use an ordinary scissors? I am in need of some cut like a flower with 5 leaves. Also how would you make the holes for sewing? I am making silver embroidery, but i am not sattisfied with those flowers i use as a substitute for Paillons, they are two dimentional, should be more flat. Greatly apreciate if any of you have tryed it! I don't remember if my friend Chris is on this list -- she would give a better answer than me on her experiments with these. She has been having some success making paillons (or bezants under one of the medieval names) out of thin metal sheets sold for craft purposes. To make the shape, she uses stamps sold for stamping leather, which come in a lot of the same types of shapes that were used historically for these. You place the metal sheet on a surface that is stiff but will give a little. A thick piece of leather works very well. Then stamp the shapes using the stamps and a hammer. After that you can cut them out of the sheet using ordinary scissors (but don't use scissors you ever plan to use for fabric again!) and punch holes for sewing using a heavy needle or a small awl, again using the leather as a backing. It seems to work best if you stamp all the shapes on the metal sheet first and then cut them all out at the same time. Chris has been working mostly with brass but I think the same technique would work with silver (if you want to spend the money!) or with silver-plated brass or copper. Heather -- !! Computer crash lost recent e-mail -- please contact if I owe you mail !! [EMAIL PROTECTED] heatherrosejones.com lj:hrj ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
RE: [h-cost] silver foil tape for Paillons?
Dear Chris. In Redwood City, there is a place called Allen Steel. It has tons of metal stuff, from and old submarine (small sized) to rolls of metals, some very thin. Inexpensive, too. 650-369-2526. I'd be happy to check it out for you if you let me know what you're interested in. Sharon (from the St. George group) -Original Message- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Chris Laning Sent: Friday, June 23, 2006 10:46 AM To: Historical Costume Subject: Re: [h-cost] silver foil tape for Paillons? On Jun 22, 2006, at 12:16 PM, Bjarne og Leif Drews wrote: In recreating materials found in 18th century embroidery, i thoaght i might could use this for shaped spangels or Paillons as they were called. These were cut from silver plates, and often vernished in different shining collours. I would like to try it. Does any of you know this material? Is it hard to cut out, can you use an ordinary scissors? I am in need of some cut like a flower with 5 leaves. Also how would you make the holes for sewing? Hi Bjarne -- Yes, I'm on this list, and here's the information on my experiments making paillettes or bezants: A short report and a couple of photos of my first efforts (and a very nice medieval original!): http://claning.home.igc.org/bezants/bezants.htm Here are the articles I wrote for our local Needleworkers' Guild newsletter: http://www.bayrose.org/wkneedle/Articles/stars_spangles_studs.html http://www.bayrose.org/wkneedle/Articles/make_bezants.html http://www.bayrose.org/wkneedle/Articles/bezants_decorating.html I am going to be teaching two classes on making bezants in July (sorry, Bjarne, they're in California! :) so I've been looking for a less expensive source of metal. Both of the Internet addresses in the Make your own Bezants article seem to have what I need, in both gold (brass) color and silver (aluminum) color. Of course they are both in the USA, but perhaps you can print out the information and look for other places that have the same thing. This stuff is really easy to use -- you can cut it with ordinary scissors and make holes with an ordinary large sewing needle. Good luck! 0 Chris Laning | [EMAIL PROTECTED] + Davis, California http://paternoster-row.org - http://paternosters.blogspot.com ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
RE: [h-cost] Doublet closure
Sew metal/plastic circles onto the inside, then lace up. -Original Message- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of REBECCA BURCH Sent: Friday, June 23, 2006 5:53 PM To: h-costume@mail.indra.com Subject: [h-cost] Doublet closure I need to pick your brains again. I am coming down the homestretch on the garb for my son. (Good thing, dress rehearsal is 7/1!!!) The slops and doublet are done except for tacking the lining in the doublet and although I like the over all look, I don't like the way the front closure looks. I had planned to use hook/eye, but now I think the front looks too bland. It is too late to sew loops into the front seam for buttons and I have braid trim running along both sides, so no place for lacing holes. If I had my son make some monkey fist knots out of metalic gold cord and then did a froggy loop kind of thing over the braid, would that be appropriate? Any other ideas or notions? Rebecca Burch Center Valley Farm Duncan Falls, Ohio, USA ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
RE: [h-cost] silver spangeled suit
What beautiful work! I am in awe. If the silver flowers are too 3-D for you, can you gently hammer them, from the back, to flatten them? Personally, I like them the way they are. -Original Message- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Bjarne og Leif Drews Sent: Friday, June 23, 2006 9:07 AM To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: [h-cost] silver spangeled suit Hi. Seems to me i can already say, its impossible for me to make nice even flower spangels. I give up! I must be satisfied with the filligree flowers. I uploaded pictures of this projekt, if you would like to se. I would like your oppinion about these flowers, what do you think are they two much? The flowers on the tsars suit, are much more simple. http://www.my-drewscostumes.dk/cel.htm Bjarne Leif og Bjarne Drews www.my-drewscostumes.dk http://home0.inet.tele.dk/drewscph/ ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
RE: [h-cost] Question for the list
Maybe take it to a cleaner who has one of those old mangle irons, like for ironing sheets or tablecloths. They do a big area at a time. -Original Message- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of E House Sent: Wednesday, June 21, 2006 10:19 AM To: Historical Costume Subject: Re: [h-cost] Question for the list - Original Message - From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [EMAIL PROTECTED] writes: It helps if you have access to a dye vat, which I did. And steam setting afterwards can be important. See...a pain! What if one just has a washing machine and a stove top? Yeah, that explains it! =} The only way I have to steam set is with an iron, and I'm not about to hold an iron for several seconds over every square inch of 6+ yards of fabric. Nuh uh. -E House ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
RE: [h-cost] Neck Ruff
I saw the partlet. It's fabulous. -Original Message- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Carolyn Kayta Barrows Sent: Monday, June 19, 2006 11:51 PM To: Historical Costume Subject: Re: [h-cost] Neck Ruff How do you construct the neck ruff so that the hem, etc is hidden? If you don't want a visible hem at the outside edge, don't make a hem there. Use doubled material, folded over any stiffening you think you need, with the fold at the outside edge. That way there's no hem to have to hide. I'm making a double-sided blackwork ruff, for my blackwork partlet, out of folded material. I'm hiding all the thread ends in between the two layers, after attaching them securely to something inside there as if it were the back side of regular embroidery. And I'm running the embroidery right out to that folded edge. I have yards of embroidery still to do on the ruff part, so no pictures of any finished garment yet. But I finished the neck band and body of the partlet last year, added a plain white ruff temporarily, and wore it that way. (If I thought my guild would let me I'd spangle in between the embroidered motifs, but I'm just a Lady-in waiting, so they won't.) CarolynKayta Barrows dollmaker, fibre artist, textillian www.FunStuft.com ///\ -@@\\\ 7 ))) )(( ))( * ) ( * /\ /---\ ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
RE: [h-cost] Question for the list
Do you think it would be dye-able? -Original Message- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Diana Habra Sent: Tuesday, June 20, 2006 9:13 AM To: Historical Costume Cc: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: [h-cost] Question for the list Hello everyone, I may have found some honest-to-goodness 100% silk velvet at one of my suppliers. It is a white-ish color and would be of limited quantity (less than 35 yards available). I don't know how much it would cost butI would like to ask how much people would be willing to pay for 100% silk velvet if they could get it. I am asking not because I want to charge as much as possible for it (I have a standard markup formula) but I am asking becuase it would cost ME a lot to order it and I only want to do so if people would be willing to buy it. So please give me your feedback and if it is something people want and I can sell it for a price they would pay, I will order some and make it available to you :~ Thanks so much! Diana www.RenaissanceFabrics.net Everything for the Costumer Become the change you want to see in the world. --Ghandi ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
RE: [h-cost] bad luck!
That ribbed silk sounds like it would make good pillows. :-) -Original Message- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Bjarne og Leif Drews Sent: Tuesday, June 20, 2006 2:36 PM To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: [h-cost] bad luck! Hi, Its ben a while since i last posted here. I had almost lost all my good patience with a projekt i started. It is such a lovely ribbed silk, but its so difficult to work with. I think its the worst silk i have ever tryed. I had cut out the forepart, and the back, the sleaves, and the cuffs. I always starts to make the sleaves of a suit, as it is so easy going. I had just finished both cuffs, and was sewing the buttons on to the cuffs and sleaves, when i stuck my hands so badly and bleeded all over on the inner cuff side for the left sleave. I tryed everything, spit on it, and used earsticks with salt water, but the collour of the silk is so fragile, that it wasnt going to be saved. Then i thoaght, well thats what happens, and i started on the other sleave. You wont believe, the same thing happened to this cuff. I compleately lost my interrest in this, and gave up. The silk is interlined with a calico cotton, and it was so hard to stick into, that i often stuck myself. In the end, i shouted out loud to myself, to h... w... i. Then i rushed off to the fabric shop, and baught myself some lovely oldfashioned silk taffeta. Thank god for that, i know how to work with that. It ended up with a very opalescence shot green taffeta with shades of very pale green. This is for jacket and breeches, and a matching green in the same collour of the pale green, for waistcoat and cuffs of the jacket. It is all going to be embroidered with silver spangels and cut glass beads that looks like the old spangels made of paste. I found these cut glass in excactly same greens as the taffeta.. As for the ribbed silk projekt, it is put away, and i have stabbed it at the bottom... I had hoped to go to an event at the Gustavians in august, but now i am sure, i wont make it because i wanted to wear something new. I guess reenacting is canselled this season... Bjarne Leif og Bjarne Drews www.my-drewscostumes.dk http://home0.inet.tele.dk/drewscph/ ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
RE: [h-cost] Knitting and crochet
I love it! A car cozy! :-) -Original Message- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Cin Sent: Friday, June 16, 2006 2:03 PM To: h-cost Subject: [h-cost] Knitting and crochet My beau found this news story. Knit yourself a car: http://www.ananova.com/news/story/sm_1879263.html?menu=news.quirkies --cin Cynthia Barnes [EMAIL PROTECTED] ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
RE: [h-cost] help for removing creases in silk?
I remember my costume prof in college showing us a Fortuny silk dress. It was permanantly pleated and you could ball it up and it would still be in pleats ages later. When it first came out, it was a big deal and the process was a closely guarded secret (according to my teacher). -Original Message- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Lavolta Press Sent: Tuesday, June 13, 2006 2:54 PM To: Historical Costume Subject: Re: [h-cost] help for removing creases in silk? If you mean crinkle silk, I think it's currently in style for gypsy skirts--you might try just making a skirt(s) or trading with someone who wants a crinkle skirt. I believe that for a good crinkle silk a chemical process is involved, but don't know the details. Fran Lavolta Press http://www.lavoltapress.com Dawn wrote: I bought some of that pleated silk that was popular a few years ago, and I'd like to remove the creases. Does anyone know how this can be done? I've tried ironing the dickens out of it, and wetting it, without much luck. Dawn ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
RE: [h-cost] Scientific explaination of my addiction
I do believe there is a similar disease, or perhaps it is just another stage of the same disease, which prevents someone from throwing out any piece of fabric larger than 4'' square, because it could conceivably be used in a quilt. Sharon -Original Message- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of E House Sent: Friday, June 09, 2006 1:54 PM To: Historical Costume Subject: Re: [h-cost] Scientific explaination of my addiction As an occasional fabric store clerk, I must say: it's not that we're sent to SPREAD the disease. It's that we are in the final stages of the disease ourselves, and our addiction can only be satisfied by being able to handle a warehouse full of fabric before anyone else gets their grubby mitts on it. -E House ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
RE: [h-cost] Re: ribbon embroidery frame
You could make a Renaissance embroidery frame, rectangular. Two long pieces, joined by two shorter ones. The fabric is whip stitched between the long pieces. You have to keep removing the stitching and re-whipping it as you go along, but it would hold it well, and you don't have to worry about sewing into something underneath. Sharon -Original Message- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Natalie Sent: Sunday, June 11, 2006 6:40 PM To: Historical Costume Subject: [h-cost] Re: ribbon embroidery frame How about clamping it to a large, sturdy picture frame with the back and glass taken out? Or maybe clamping it to a yard stick? I was thinking that would be similar to pinning to a pillow, but without the risk of embroidering onto the pillow. Natalie - Original Message - From: E House [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Sunday, June 11, 2006 5:48 PM Subject: [h-cost] ribbon embroidery frame, water-dissolving interfacing? I need some bright ideas. I'm planning to make my own goldwork embroidery trim, by embroidering some heavy silk satin ribbon; I'll be doing it both on some 5/8 wide and some 1 wide ribbon. The embroidery is going to be a continuous design, and longer than any frames I've seen, so I won't be able to fit it into a normal embroidery frame without wrecking it. I thought of pinning it to a pillow, but I can't figure out any practical way to do that without accidentally embroidering into the pillow itself. Ideas? Also, long ago I did graphic design for an embroidery company. To back the embroidery, one of the things they used was a type of interfacing that dissolved when sprayed with water. Does anyone know the name of this stuff, or brand names of something similar but perhaps a bit more substantial? The ribbon is black, and all the traditional methods I've experimented with to mark the design just did not work well; there's too much fiddly detail in the design for anything that actually shows up. I'm hoping to mark the design on an easily removeable interfacing instead. (My last ditch idea is to paint the design on, but that seems like it will take forever and make it really hard to accurately render the design.) -E House ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
RE: [h-cost] book on drafting h-costumes
Sounds like what I did in college. We started with a basic form fitting pattern, then cut, spread, added, etc. to get the final pattern we wanted. Does this sound like what you're looking for? Sharon -Original Message- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of michaela Sent: Wednesday, June 07, 2006 4:06 PM To: Historical Costume Subject: Re: [h-cost] book on drafting h-costumes I've read the books from Janet Arnold or Noran Waugh or others, they are a good help, but not what I'm looking for. The thing that interests me is exactly how to draft the pattern with the help of a certain drafting system (I don't know how to call it). You make a net with the help of the measurements and out of it you make the pattern. It is usual that you make a basic pattern and then modify it to the pattern you want by for ex. relocating the seams, increasing or decreasing their widths etc. It sounds like you want to get into flat pattern drafting rather than draping or copying a previous pattern. I found several in a large library here, most were from the 1960s and they took you through what measurements to take and how to create a basic body block (usually with darts) that can be altered to have seams or darts where you want. I don't know the titles, but they are under dress making, patterning in the Dewey Decimal system: 646.4 Locally these turn up: Dressmaking Pattern Design Ann Ladbury's Guide To Simple Pattern Cutting Ladbury, Ann. London : B.T. Batsford, 1986.120 p. : ill. ; 26 cm. The Art Of Pattern Drafting. Stringer, Pamela C. Auckland : Ramlex Services Ltd., 1988.182 p. : ill. ; 30 cm. Creating Fashion Foster, Betty London : Thames : Macdonald, 1983160p. : ill. ; 27cm Customize Your Sewing Patterns For A Perfect Fit Morris, Mary, 1940- New York, N.Y. : Lark Books, c2001.144 p. : ill. (some col.) ; 26 cm. The Cutters' Practical Guide To The Cutting And Making All Kinds Of Trousers, Breeches Knickers : To Which Is Added Chapters Dealing With The Cutting And Making Of Highland Kilts, Leggings, Gaiters, Etc. Vincent, W. D. F. (William D. F.), 1860-1926. London : John Williamson, [19--?]1 v. (various pagings) : ill. ; 28 cm. The Cutters' Practical Guide To The Cutting And Making Of All Kinds Of Overcoats : Civilain, Military, Naval, Livery c. Vincent, W. D. F. (William D. F.), 1860-1926. London : J. Williamson Co., [19--?]1 v. (various pagings) : ill. ; 28 cm. The Cutters' Practical Guide To The Cutting And Making Of All Kinds Of Trousers, Breeches Knickers, To Which Is Added Chapters Dealing With The Cutting And Making Of Highland Kilts, Leggings, Gaiters, c. Vincent, W. D. F. (William D. F.), 1860-1926. London : J. Williamson Co., [19--?]104 p. : ill. ; 29 cm. Designing Patterns : A Fresh Approach To Pattern Cutting Campbell, Hilary Melbourne : Australasian Educa Press, 1985123p. : ill. ; 32cm Dress Pattern Designing : The Basic Principles Of Cut And Fit Bray, Natalie London : Granada, 1981132p. : ill. ; 28cm Dress Pattern Designing : The Basic Principles Of Cut And Fit Bray, Natalie London : Collins, 1986176p. : ill. ; 29cm Every Sewer's Guide To The Perfect Fit : Customizing Your Patterns For A Sensational Look Morris, Mary, 1940- Asheville, NC : Lark Books, c1997.144 p. : ill. (some col.) ; 26 cm. Fashion Design On The Stand Cloake, Dawn. London : Batsford, 1996.96 p. : col. ill. ; 30 cm. These do not however create an historical shape, especially pre-hourglass shapes of the 19thC where you have a body form so markedly different from the modern. I would recommend them though as a starting point to creating your own patterns because they do guide you through measuring and many basic techniques of construction, and you could then use that understanding to cretae flat patterns for fitting over various historical forms. The other option is to get out Period Costume for Stage and Screen by Jean Hunnisett. It's probably the closest to what you want. Michaela de Bruce http://costumes.glittersweet.com -- No virus found in this outgoing message. Checked by AVG Free Edition. Version: 7.1.394 / Virus Database: 268.8.3/358 - Release Date: 7/06/2006 ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
RE: [h-cost] linnen stomacher and cap
Pre-shrink your fabric AND your thread. That may help. -Original Message- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Bjarne og Leif Drews Sent: Tuesday, May 30, 2006 12:48 AM To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: [h-cost] linnen stomacher and cap Hi. I am sorry i didnt read the text before i posted the link. It says that the cap and the stomacher are made with cotton. Does any of you know how much shrinking there would be of such a close embroidery? It seems to me, that there would be much shrinking. Bjarne Leif og Bjarne Drews www.my-drewscostumes.dk http://home0.inet.tele.dk/drewscph/ ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
RE: [h-cost] linnen stomacher and cap
Oh, now I understand what you mean. Why not make a small piece first, maybe 4 inches square and see how much it shrinks in both directions? Sharon -Original Message- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Bjarne og Leif Drews Sent: Tuesday, May 30, 2006 11:32 AM To: Historical Costume Subject: Re: [h-cost] linnen stomacher and cap Hi, Yes its a must, if the stomacher is going to be washed after it has ben embroidered. But i thoaght about the very heavy embroidery might shrink the stomacher rather much with all that stuffing of the lines. Bjarne - Original Message - From: Sharon at Collierfam.com [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: 'Historical Costume' [EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Tuesday, May 30, 2006 7:45 PM Subject: RE: [h-cost] linnen stomacher and cap Pre-shrink your fabric AND your thread. That may help. -Original Message- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Bjarne og Leif Drews Sent: Tuesday, May 30, 2006 12:48 AM To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: [h-cost] linnen stomacher and cap Hi. I am sorry i didnt read the text before i posted the link. It says that the cap and the stomacher are made with cotton. Does any of you know how much shrinking there would be of such a close embroidery? It seems to me, that there would be much shrinking. Bjarne Leif og Bjarne Drews www.my-drewscostumes.dk http://home0.inet.tele.dk/drewscph/ ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
RE: [h-cost] embroidered linen stomacher
YES! PLEASE! -Original Message- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Bjarne og Leif Drews Sent: Sunday, May 28, 2006 11:07 AM To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: [h-cost] embroidered linen stomacher I have an original embroidery pattern for a ladys stomacher made with the whitework tecknique. Also a ladys cape. The patterns comes from a collection at Nordiska Museum in Stockholm, where they belonged to a lady called Beata Jacquette Ribbing. She lived in the first half of the 18th century, so my guess would be these patterns being made between 1730- 50. I have made a high resolution scanning of the patterns, and i could blow them up to normal size without problems. They are insane beautifull, and especially the stomacher it is possible to rekonstrukt. The pattern of the cape needs to be rekonstrukted in some of the areas, but with patience and skill its possible. If anyone is interrested, i would not mind to post it to my website, so that you could copy it. Bjarne Leif og Bjarne Drews www.my-drewscostumes.dk http://home0.inet.tele.dk/drewscph/ ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
RE: [h-cost] in search of a lost person
A teacher at my kids' school had ALL her 7-8 graders doing a fabric project for a local shelter- either knitting, crocheting or quilting. And all the kids got into it. It was great seeing those tall, lanky 8th grade boys with their knitting. :-) -Original Message- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Ruth Anne Baumgartner Sent: Friday, May 26, 2006 5:14 PM To: Historical Costume Subject: Re: [h-cost] in search of a lost person Sorry to brag on myself, but I can knit AND crochet (if it's very elaborate I'd rather knit, but I've crocheted shawls, tablecloths, bedspreads, hats, and a few ponchos!). Also tat. And quilt. And embroider (although not in the same league with Bjarne and Lorina--hell, not on the same PLANET...). And basic weaving. To put it very oddly, I have polio to thank for many of these skills. That is, when I was a young kid the polio vaccines hadn't been developed yet. Mothers kept their children indoors and quiet during the hottest hours of the summer days--this was the accepted method of prevention. My mother taught me to knit and embroider; my grandmother taught me to crochet. I taught myself to sew the bizarre clothes in which I dressed my dolls. In between, I read Nancy Drew mysteries and dreamed of having a roadster of my own. My girlfriend Joyce learned to tat from her mother in the same circumstances--she gave tatted bookmarks as gifts one Christmas. I loved those long summer days at the time, and wish I could structure my time that way again! (Glad parents don't have to live in dread of their kids' catching polio nowadays, though!) When I was in college everybody knitted, even a couple of the guys. We knit in class, at choir rehearsals, at the moviesthat's when I learned to turn cables and found myself in huge demand (If I buy the wool, would you knit me an Aran Isles sweater?) I pulled an all-nighter once to finish a knitted openwork sweater for a friend who was wearing it with a long skirt to a formal dance. I came into my own as a crocheter while watching the Fischer-Spassky chess match on television one grad-school summer. I didn't learn to tat from Joyce; I taught myself from a book, which is also how I learned to make bobbin lace. Give me a piece of string and I'm happy! --Ruth Anne Baumgartner scholar gypsy and amateur costumer On May 26, 2006, at 6:09 PM, Helen Pinto wrote: Marie wrote: But knitting, that's orderly and straightforward... I don't know anyone who can do both knit and crochet. I'm with you. I can knit, standing up in the subway even, but I can't crochet worth a damn. I end up with a twisty thing that won't lie flat. Now my grandmother could do both, sort of a human perpetual motion machine. Annual output: 2 sweaters each per son and grandchild, 1 per daughter-in-law and other miscellaneous extended family, plus hats, scarves, and mittens for all, including the crossing guards. And these amazing two-piece dresses for herself that I swear she knitted on toothpicks. The crochet haul included assorted afghans, laces tablecloths, antimacassars and doilies. And she quilted. And sewed. And gardened. And cooked. All day. I learned a lot from her. -Helen/Aidan ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
RE: [h-cost] Yippee!!
How much does the book cost and where did you get it? -Original Message- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Audrey Bergeron-Morin Sent: Thursday, May 25, 2006 7:16 PM To: Historical Costume Subject: Re: [h-cost] Yippee!! My copy of Moda a Firenze arrived in today's mail!!! I'm so excited!! There are portraits that I've never seen in it AND there's a page-sized image of the portrait of Laudomia de Medici as well. Colour? Wow... I've been looking for THAT for years... looked through books and books and books and couldn't find it... ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
RE: [h-cost] in search of a lost person
My senior year in high school I took a textile arts class. We did embroidery, appliqué, netting, spinning, natural dyeing, and weaving. It was a great class. I still have and use the shawl I wove. -Original Message- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of [EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Friday, May 26, 2006 5:40 PM To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: Re: [h-cost] in search of a lost person I guess that us Europeans have it a bit easier. In elementary school 1st grade I learned to crochet. In second grade I learned to knot. We also learned the various embroidery stitches and some sewing. I remember my first crochet project in school was a stuffed elf. The first knitting project was a pair of house slippers with a felt sole we had to saew the knitted upper to. Laster we learned to knit gloes and socks. We crochet doilies and afgans and eve a sweater. My first sewing project was i 5th grade. We sewed a christening gown of all things that was decorated with shadow stitch embroidery. The embroidery is done on the wrong side of the very fine linnen, with bright colors so it shines throughin pastel tones. The sewing was all by hand. I remember my Mom was really upset at the useless Christening gown! Afterall we were only 10 years old! O, I forgot to say I grew up in Germany! Now I live in the States, but I still knit, crochewt, sew, quilt, etc. etc. Sometimes I even read a book while knitting! Hope that does not make me too strange! Elisabeth -Original Message- From: Adele de Maisieres [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: Historical Costume [EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Sat, 27 May 2006 08:38:29 +1200 Subject: Re: [h-cost] in search of a lost person Marie Schnoor wrote: Oh man, I have to totally dissagree with you there! Crochet just makes me feel like a fish in a net! I start off with that wee hook thing and loop it around and I end up tying my toes together... somehow... But knitting, that's orderly and straightforward. I always say, it's like being a Beatles fan or and Elvis fan; most people I know are either one or the other. I don't know anyone who can do both knit and crochet. I can. I learned to crochet as a child, but only taught myself to knit a few years ago. Knitting is _so_ much easier to mess up and so much harder to fix when you do. -- Adele de Maisieres - Habeo metrum - musicamque, hominem meam. Expectat alium quid? -Georgeus Gershwinus - ___ h-costume mailing list [EMAIL PROTECTED] http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
RE: Current projects (was Re: [h-cost] hello out there??)
I keep getting album not found -Original Message- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Susan Data-Samtak Sent: Monday, May 22, 2006 7:56 PM To: Historical Costume Subject: Re: Current projects (was Re: [h-cost] hello out there??) Beautiful ! Thanks for sharing. Susan Slow down. The trail is the thing, not the end of the trail. Travel too fast and you miss all you are traveling for. - Ride the Dark Trail by Louis L'Amour On May 22, 2006, at 9:21 PM, Kristin wrote: Well, I haven't had a chance to upload recent pictures until this evening, but here's a link to the late 1700's outfit I've been working on since the fall: http://www.kodakgallery.com/I.jsp?c=jq8t100.nqqmx58x=0y=-tik0qhttp: //www.kodakgallery.com/I.jsp?c=jq8t100.nqqmx58x=0y=-tik0q I'm procrastinating on the quilted petticoat again, by making a pair of stays. I guess I'll be finished with the binding within the next week and will have to go back to quilting for a while. My next procrastination project is to make pockets... and then maybe start making another shift, but of linen this time around... and then... I'm so very happy to see that I'm not the only one who works on multiple projects simultaneously. It used to drive my ex nuts... but I guess he was never around anyone else who had a creative streak in them! Kristin On 5/22/06, Catherine Olanich Raymond [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: On Sunday 21 May 2006 11:48 pm, Sue Clemenger wrote: I think I'm right about where you are, garb-wise, Cathy. My laundry list wasn't really an indication of my Extreme Expertise and Skills, but more like the results of being consitutionally incapable of project monogamy. Same here, which was part of my point. However, you have attempted a wider variety of projects than I have (see below). Deity help me, a couple of weeks ago, I was encountering my first power tool (a drill press) in a friend's garage, learning to register soapstone molds so I can carve the molds and make my own pewter buttons for fitted gowns. Now anything that requires power tools is a bit farther than I've cared to go! I'm still waffling about using that sheet copper I bought to try to make a Viking style needlecase-and I can do that with only a dowel and a pair of pliers (and maybe crazy glue). I'd love to hear more about you Lithuanian shawl! One of the things the lands along the Baltic seem to have in common (Lithuania, Latvia, Estonia, parts of Finland, even Novogorod) is that the rich tended to ornament their clothes by working bronze coils and rings into them. (Most of the 1st-10th c textile finds in those areas have survived because the bronze ornaments preserve a fair amount of the cloth. Since most of the ornamentation was at the edges, you get a good idea of the size of the ornamented items.) Based on where the metal ornaments were found, it appears that there was a standard shawl size (roughly 30 inches by 40 inches). The proper way to do the ornamentation would be to weave the shawl to order, and wrap strips of sheet bronze or bits of bronze wire around certain warp threads as I worked, but I'm not likely to learn how to weave anything bigger than a tablet-woven belt anytime soon. So what I'll probably do is kind of corkscrew pieces of copper wire into already woven wool (I have some nice wool melton cut and fringed for the purpose). Then, I will make smaller coils of copper wire, string them onto a cord, and couch them onto each short end. Raymond's Quiet Press started making the kind of stick pins that (it has been theorized) were used to fasten these shawls. There's a picture of the design here: http://www.quietpress.com/New2004.html (look under new in October 2004; it's the left-hand picture, the item on the far right). They were used in pairs, fastened together with bronze chains. The pins attached to them are huge--as big as knitting needles (the same is true of the actual survivals Raymond's model is based upon). Having finally bought myself a pair from Raymond as a birthday present, my theory is that the pins were never meant to go through anything other than the shawl. Once you fasten them to the shawl (I've already tried this) you can take the shawl off and on over your head (really, really carefully, to make sure you don't gouge out your eyes) as a unit, without risking damage to the rest of your body or clothes. I have already finished most of the rest of the costume the shawl is to be worn with. When I finally finish the shawl, I'll put a picture in the MedCos gallery and post the URL to it here. -- Cathy Raymond [EMAIL PROTECTED] I'm starting to like the cut of this man's gibberish. --General Fillmore (from The Tick, episode 2) ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com
RE: [h-cost] In an ideal sewing world..............
Where do you live? I help a friend of mine when she's doing shows, and I don't mind the plain stuff. Sharon -Original Message- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Carmen Beaudry Sent: Monday, May 22, 2006 5:05 PM To: Historical Costume Subject: Re: [h-cost] In an ideal sewing world.. My biggest daydream is to have someone to do the plain sewing. I love the designing, the research, the patterning and even the initial cutting and testing a garment. After I have it figured out, I don't want to do the sewing. I love the finishing, especially fine details, but I'd love to have someone to do the boring parts. I am actually looking into working with one of the local trade schools to have a student on an internship to do this. There are certain tax breaks for their wages, and some other benefits, as well as getting the work done. I think I might be able to swing this next year. Other than that, I want a bigger studio, or perhaps a separate room for the cutting, since my current studio handles the rest just fine. Oh, and the fibromyalgia and arthritis could go away, too. Melusine ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
RE: [h-cost] hello out there??
Where will your class be taught? Sharon -Original Message- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Cynthia J Ley Sent: Saturday, May 20, 2006 2:24 PM To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: Re: [h-cost] hello out there?? On Sat, 20 May 2006 15:06:09 -0600 Sue Clemenger [EMAIL PROTECTED] writes: Sure! Always! giggle I've got a variety of things going at the moment, some of them peripherally (sp?) associated with historical costuming, in that they're fiber-related. I'm preparing wool and yarns at the moment (getting them ready for a weekend natural dyeing workshop next weekend), and some of that will become historical clothing and accessories. I've got myself about a pound What's going on in your neck of the costuming world? --Sue Oh gosh, nothing nearly as exciting as what you're doing! :-) Mamluk, huh? I have a friend who needs to talk to you! My project right now involves revamping a blackwork class that I'll be teaching in August--I am digging out docs and pictures, and making another sampler to go with the class. I don't costume at all, but enjoy the discussions and take classes when I can so I can understand it better--I just don't have time for it, as music and embroidery keep me very busy! ;) I'm also working on improving my SCA persona kit. From a costuming end, a friend is making me a GFD in the next month or so. Yay! Arlys ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
