Re: [h-cost] Help in dating an image

[Kim Baird]

Lia-
When I sent you an email offering to help, I got an automatic "out of
office" reply. Shcekc your email.
Kim

-Original Message-
From: h-costume-boun...@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-boun...@indra.com] On
Behalf Of Hansen, Lia
Sent: Thursday, August 25, 2016 6:18 PM
To: h-cost...@indra.com
Subject: [h-cost] Help in dating an image

Subject: Help in dating an image

My friend is an archeologist and found this image at a recent dig.  I
thought this group might be a good resource to help zero in on a date.  If
you are interested in weighing in, feel free to email me at
lia.han...@vanguard.edu<mailto:lia.han...@vanguard.edu> and I'll send the
image to you since I can't seem to post it and I don't have a link to it..

Thanks!

Lia

Lia M. Hansen, M.F.A.
Costume Designer/Associate Professor of Theatre Arts Vanguard University of
Southern California
55 Fair Drive, Costa Mesa, CA  92626
lia.han...@vanguard.edu<mailto:lia.han...@vanguard.edu>
949-246-6585--cell
714-662-5229--fax
714-619-6423--office
Matt 6:1-8


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Re: [h-cost] Help in dating an image

[Kate Bunting]

Lia,

Can you give us a clue as to the general period the image is from? Is it a
photograph, or something earlier?

Kate Bunting
Retired librarian & 17th century reenactor

On Fri, Aug 26, 2016 at 12:18 AM, Hansen, Lia 
wrote:

> Subject: Help in dating an image
>
> My friend is an archeologist and found this image at a recent dig.  I
> thought this group might be a good resource to help zero in on a date.  If
> you are interested in weighing in, feel free to email me at
> lia.han...@vanguard.edu and I'll send the
> image to you since I can't seem to post it and I don't have a link to it..
>
> Thanks!
>
> Lia
>
> Lia M. Hansen, M.F.A.
> Costume Designer/Associate Professor of Theatre Arts
> Vanguard University of Southern California
> 55 Fair Drive, Costa Mesa, CA  92626
> lia.han...@vanguard.edu
> 949-246-6585--cell
> 714-662-5229--fax
> 714-619-6423--office
> Matt 6:1-8
>
>
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>
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[h-cost] Help with 1890 toque hat

[Janine Crocker]

Please can someone help?

I am trying to make a hat that I thought was fashionable in 1890 or 
thereabouts. It is a toque shape on a wire frame and sits at an angle, slanting 
downwards towards the wearer's forhead. I had the idea that the back of this 
hat had a rigid band of silk covered buckram fitted into the back of the crown 
with a curve cut out to allow for the hairstyle but I can't find a picture 
showing this detail. It wouldn't show on a fashion plate because I understood 
that the bandeau would be covered with flowers, ribbons etc but the only 
similar thing that I have found is a low fabric strip bandeau which would hold 
the hat on but not give it the angle.

Am I mixing it up with something else? Did I dream it? :)

Janine


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[h-cost] Help requested -Medieval Type Fabric Swatch book creation

[Angharad ver' Reynulf]

 
*De-Lurking for a bit, yes it's been a long time since I posted here*
 
 
 
 
 
I'm looking for help with creating a fabric swatch book geared to help me 
understand what modern fabrics would be closer in look or feel to recreating 
historical garments, especially in the medieval period, although not 
exclusively.  Personally I do most of my costuming in the 14th century, but am 
also asked to help with everything from early Norse or Rus to Tudor and 
Elizabethan clothing, and am starting to play with Regency and Victorian 
outfits.  I have a lot of books, but find it personally challenging to 
translate the written word and pictures into how the fabric looks and feels in 
my hand for myself, much less for other people.
 
 
 
Since I'm at a point now where I'm wanting to take the time to hand-sew my 
ensembles, and even considering hand embroidered badge motifs, I'd like to be a 
bit more correct on the weights and weaves I'm using for the projects. 
Especially since I've got a few pieces of wools that are lovely, but I don't 
know if they are the right weight or style for what I want to do.  For example, 
picking out what to do with 6 yards of a lovely ultramarine blue angora blend 
wool that feels like velvety plush on one side and the other side looks like 
what I think is a twill (very fine diagonal lines), the 5 yards of a muted 
blue-green that is lightweight, mostly smooth feeling, with tightly woven 
threads or the 5 1/2 yards of heavier dark purple (grape) wool that is more 
like the heavier coat wool.
 
I'm willing to pay for swatches and postage-please contact me off-list at 
celedraug AT gmail DOT com.
 
Thank you (and back to lurking),


JonnaLyhn Wolfcat
aka Angharat verch Reynulf, BAO, An Tir
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Re: [h-cost] help/advice needed re: closure

[Marjorie Wilser]

Typical 50s dresses had side zippers, from underarm into the skirt.  
They're much easier to reach! I used to put them in my square dance  
dresses (and make many women ask how I got into them!).


==Marjorie Wilser

 @..@   @..@   @..@
Three Toad Press
http://3toad.blogspot.com/




On Jun 9, 2012, at 7:19 PM, Julie Tamura wrote:


I'm making a 50's-ish sundress for my daughter. It has a fitted, boned
bodice with a gathered skirt. The pattern was designed with a zipper  
in the
center back seam. I've modified the skirt to have four gores. Can I  
put a
zipper in that will have to kink off to one side to follow the gore?  
What
would be a good closure?  Everything I think of would be difficult  
for her

to fasten in the back.
Julie


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Re: [h-cost] help/advice needed re: closure

[annbwass]

Side seam if possible would be my choice.

I agree, and that is actually a very '50s solution. And yes, gores will usually 
be lined up with seams at center front and back and sides. Now, granted, you 
are putting the zipper into the bias seam of the gore, but that shouldn't be an 
issue. You might want to stabilize it a bit by stay-stitching the seam 
allowance first so it doesn't stretch too much. If you find the seam allowance 
is a tad narrow to put in the zipper, add some seam tape. Oh, and a lapped 
application will look better than a centered one.

Ann Wass


-Original Message-
From: McHugh Megan me...@benchite.com
To: Historical Costume h-cost...@indra.com
Sent: Sat, Jun 9, 2012 11:02 pm
Subject: Re: [h-cost] help/advice needed re: closure


I'm missing something here a skirt with 4 gores would usually have seams at 
oth sides, plus center front and back.  So why does the zipper need to jog? 
owever, I agree with not using a back zipper whenever possible because many of 
s cannot pull them up all the way by ourselves, and it is a pain to need 
omeone to help dress you . Side seam if possible would be my choice.
Megan
On Jun 9, 2012, at 10:19 PM, Julie Tamura wrote:
 I'm making a 50's-ish sundress for my daughter. It has a fitted, boned
 bodice with a gathered skirt. The pattern was designed with a zipper in the
 center back seam. I've modified the skirt to have four gores. Can I put a
 zipper in that will have to kink off to one side to follow the gore? What
 would be a good closure?  Everything I think of would be difficult for her
 to fasten in the back.
 Julie
 
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[h-cost] help/advice needed re: closure

[Julie Tamura]

Thanks all.  I went to a costumed event today and talked with one of the
ladies there.  I realized that in the process of cutting my gores I also
ended up with a pair of half gores.  So DUH!  I'm going to put the half
gores in the back and then magically I *will* have a center back seam for a
zipper.  I can't believe I didn't think of that.  But very nice to have some
good costuming brains to pick.
Julie

-Original Message-

I just got it..  You don't have a side seam either, do you?  I think I would
divide up the center back gore so that you do have a CB seam to insert a
zipper.


Sylvia Rognstad
Ezzyworld

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[h-cost] help/advice needed re: closure

[Julie Tamura]

I'm making a 50's-ish sundress for my daughter. It has a fitted, boned
bodice with a gathered skirt. The pattern was designed with a zipper in the
center back seam. I've modified the skirt to have four gores. Can I put a
zipper in that will have to kink off to one side to follow the gore? What
would be a good closure?  Everything I think of would be difficult for her
to fasten in the back.
Julie

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Re: [h-cost] help/advice needed re: closure

[Sylvia Rognstad]

Can you not put it in the side seam?

Sylvia Rognstad
Ezzyworld
Custom design  sewing
Theatrical costume design
http://www/ezzyworld.com
Hand-dyed silk belly dance veils
http://www.facebook.com/emeralds.belly.dance.veils.etc










On Jun 9, 2012, at 8:19 PM, Julie Tamura wrote:


I'm making a 50's-ish sundress for my daughter. It has a fitted, boned
bodice with a gathered skirt. The pattern was designed with a  
zipper in the
center back seam. I've modified the skirt to have four gores. Can I  
put a
zipper in that will have to kink off to one side to follow the  
gore? What
would be a good closure?  Everything I think of would be difficult  
for her

to fasten in the back.
Julie

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Re: [h-cost] help/advice needed re: closure

[Sylvia Rognstad]

I just got it..  You don't have a side seam either, do you?  I think  
I would divide up the center back gore so that you do have a CB seam  
to insert a zipper.



Sylvia Rognstad
Ezzyworld
Custom design  sewing
Theatrical costume design
http://www/ezzyworld.com
Hand-dyed silk belly dance veils
http://www.facebook.com/emeralds.belly.dance.veils.etc










On Jun 9, 2012, at 8:26 PM, Sylvia Rognstad wrote:


Can you not put it in the side seam?

Sylvia Rognstad
Ezzyworld
Custom design  sewing
Theatrical costume design
http://www/ezzyworld.com
Hand-dyed silk belly dance veils
http://www.facebook.com/emeralds.belly.dance.veils.etc









On Jun 9, 2012, at 8:19 PM, Julie Tamura wrote:

I'm making a 50's-ish sundress for my daughter. It has a fitted,  
boned
bodice with a gathered skirt. The pattern was designed with a  
zipper in the
center back seam. I've modified the skirt to have four gores. Can  
I put a
zipper in that will have to kink off to one side to follow the  
gore? What
would be a good closure?  Everything I think of would be difficult  
for her

to fasten in the back.
Julie

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Re: [h-cost] help/advice needed re: closure

[McHugh Megan]

I'm missing something here a skirt with 4 gores would usually have seams at 
both sides, plus center front and back.  So why does the zipper need to jog? 
However, I agree with not using a back zipper whenever possible because many of 
us cannot pull them up all the way by ourselves, and it is a pain to need 
someone to help dress you . Side seam if possible would be my choice.
-Megan

On Jun 9, 2012, at 10:19 PM, Julie Tamura wrote:

 I'm making a 50's-ish sundress for my daughter. It has a fitted, boned
 bodice with a gathered skirt. The pattern was designed with a zipper in the
 center back seam. I've modified the skirt to have four gores. Can I put a
 zipper in that will have to kink off to one side to follow the gore? What
 would be a good closure?  Everything I think of would be difficult for her
 to fasten in the back.
 Julie
 
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 h-costume@mail.indra.com
 http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume


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[h-cost] Help - shredding silk :((

[Aylwen Gardiner-Garden]

Any helpful hints appreciated - I have a commission to make a regency gown
from a woven embroidered silk dupion. Looks gorgeous on the outside but the
embroidery is shedding like mad on the underside. What would you do to it
to save the day? It is supposed to be a wow gown and all I feel like doing
is crying :(
*Aylwen Gardiner-Garden*
*
*
*Earthly Delights Historic Dance Academy http://www.earthlydelights.com.au
*
*Jane Austen Festival Australia* http://www.janeaustenfestival.com
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Re: [h-cost] Help - shredding silk :((

[annbwass]

Looks gorgeous on the outside but the
mbroidery is shedding like mad on the underside.

Could you back it with a lightweight fusible?

Ann Wass


-Original Message-
From: Aylwen Gardiner-Garden aylwe...@gmail.com
To: Historical Costume h-cost...@indra.com
Sent: Fri, May 18, 2012 5:12 am
Subject: [h-cost] Help - shredding silk :((


Any helpful hints appreciated - I have a commission to make a regency gown
rom a woven embroidered silk dupion. Looks gorgeous on the outside but the
mbroidery is shedding like mad on the underside. What would you do to it
o save the day? It is supposed to be a wow gown and all I feel like doing
s crying :(
Aylwen Gardiner-Garden*


Earthly Delights Historic Dance Academy http://www.earthlydelights.com.au

Jane Austen Festival Australia* http://www.janeaustenfestival.com
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Re: [h-cost] Help - shredding silk :((

[Aylwen Gardiner-Garden]

I've tried that but it bubbled - because the thickness of the threads under
the embroidered flowers prevents it from sticking at that point.
*Aylwen *


On 18 May 2012 20:39, annbw...@aol.com wrote:




 Looks gorgeous on the outside but the
 mbroidery is shedding like mad on the underside.

 Could you back it with a lightweight fusible?

 Ann Wass


 -Original Message-
 From: Aylwen Gardiner-Garden aylwe...@gmail.com
 To: Historical Costume h-cost...@indra.com
 Sent: Fri, May 18, 2012 5:12 am
 Subject: [h-cost] Help - shredding silk :((


 Any helpful hints appreciated - I have a commission to make a regency gown
 rom a woven embroidered silk dupion. Looks gorgeous on the outside but the
 mbroidery is shedding like mad on the underside. What would you do to it
 o save the day? It is supposed to be a wow gown and all I feel like doing
 s crying :(
 Aylwen Gardiner-Garden*


 Earthly Delights Historic Dance Academy http://www.earthlydelights.com.au
 

 Jane Austen Festival Australia* http://www.janeaustenfestival.com
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Re: [h-cost] Help - shredding silk :((

[Katy Bishop]

Would fray check work?  How big are the motifs?

Katy

On Fri, May 18, 2012 at 6:46 AM, Aylwen Gardiner-Garden
aylwe...@gmail.comwrote:

 I've tried that but it bubbled - because the thickness of the threads under
 the embroidered flowers prevents it from sticking at that point.
 *Aylwen *


 On 18 May 2012 20:39, annbw...@aol.com wrote:

 
 
 
  Looks gorgeous on the outside but the
  mbroidery is shedding like mad on the underside.
 
  Could you back it with a lightweight fusible?
 
  Ann Wass
 
 
  -Original Message-
  From: Aylwen Gardiner-Garden aylwe...@gmail.com
  To: Historical Costume h-cost...@indra.com
  Sent: Fri, May 18, 2012 5:12 am
  Subject: [h-cost] Help - shredding silk :((
 
 
  Any helpful hints appreciated - I have a commission to make a regency
 gown
  rom a woven embroidered silk dupion. Looks gorgeous on the outside but
 the
  mbroidery is shedding like mad on the underside. What would you do to it
  o save the day? It is supposed to be a wow gown and all I feel like doing
  s crying :(
  Aylwen Gardiner-Garden*
 
 
  Earthly Delights Historic Dance Academy 
 http://www.earthlydelights.com.au
  
 
  Jane Austen Festival Australia* http://www.janeaustenfestival.com
  __
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  ttp://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
 
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-- 
Katy Bishop, Vintage Victorian
katybisho...@gmail.comwww.VintageVictorian.com
 Custom reproduction gowns of the Victorian Era.
  Publisher of the Vintage Dress Series books.
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Re: [h-cost] Help - shredding silk :((

[Magge Genie]

If fray check doesn't work, drop a dot of glue right on the back of the 
embroidery to hold it. When it dries, it shouldn't have more problems.  

Magge/Genie

On May 18, 2012, at 4:10 AM, Aylwen Gardiner-Garden aylwe...@gmail.com wrote:

 Any helpful hints appreciated - I have a commission to make a regency gown
 from a woven embroidered silk dupion. Looks gorgeous on the outside but the
 embroidery is shedding like mad on the underside. What would you do to it
 to save the day? It is supposed to be a wow gown and all I feel like doing
 is crying :(
 *Aylwen Gardiner-Garden*
 *
 *
 *Earthly Delights Historic Dance Academy http://www.earthlydelights.com.au
 *
 *Jane Austen Festival Australia* http://www.janeaustenfestival.com
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Re: [h-cost] Help - shredding silk :((

[Monica Spence]

Hi Aylwen,
Is the embroidery separating from the fabric? Can you catch the threads on
the underside with a catch stitch and sew them in a bunch to each motif?
Then flat line the fabric in a really lightweight fabric. I could be more
helpful if I saw a picture. Can you send it privately?

Best Regards,
Monica

-Original Message-
From: h-costume-boun...@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-boun...@indra.com] On
Behalf Of Katy Bishop
Sent: Friday, May 18, 2012 8:55 AM
To: Historical Costume
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Help - shredding silk :((

Would fray check work?  How big are the motifs?

Katy

On Fri, May 18, 2012 at 6:46 AM, Aylwen Gardiner-Garden
aylwe...@gmail.comwrote:

 I've tried that but it bubbled - because the thickness of the threads 
 under the embroidered flowers prevents it from sticking at that point.
 *Aylwen *


 On 18 May 2012 20:39, annbw...@aol.com wrote:

 
 
 
  Looks gorgeous on the outside but the mbroidery is shedding like mad 
  on the underside.
 
  Could you back it with a lightweight fusible?
 
  Ann Wass
 
 
  -Original Message-
  From: Aylwen Gardiner-Garden aylwe...@gmail.com
  To: Historical Costume h-cost...@indra.com
  Sent: Fri, May 18, 2012 5:12 am
  Subject: [h-cost] Help - shredding silk :((
 
 
  Any helpful hints appreciated - I have a commission to make a 
  regency
 gown
  rom a woven embroidered silk dupion. Looks gorgeous on the outside 
  but
 the
  mbroidery is shedding like mad on the underside. What would you do 
  to it o save the day? It is supposed to be a wow gown and all I feel 
  like doing s crying :( Aylwen Gardiner-Garden*
 
 
  Earthly Delights Historic Dance Academy 
 http://www.earthlydelights.com.au
  
 
  Jane Austen Festival Australia* http://www.janeaustenfestival.com
  __
  -costume mailing list
  -cost...@mail.indra.com
  ttp://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
 
  ___
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 ___
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--
Katy Bishop, Vintage Victorian
katybisho...@gmail.comwww.VintageVictorian.com
 Custom reproduction gowns of the Victorian Era.
  Publisher of the Vintage Dress Series books.
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Re: [h-cost] Help - shredding silk :((

[albertcat]

Do you mean where you cut the fabric it's fraying? Dupioni does that.


In actual period gowns, the bodice (at least) is usually flat lined in glazed 
cotton. The seams are bound in seam binding. Often in a contrasting color.
Curved seams are not just clipped to lay flat, they are scalloped (the clipped 
sections are rounded off) which makes it easier to bind.  
 
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Re: [h-cost] Help - shredding silk :((

[Cin]

I've tried that but it bubbled - because the thickness of the threads under
the embroidered flowers prevents it from sticking at that point.

Since the fusible I/F was too stiff  gluey, can you whip stiitch a
organza protective layer over the interior to protect it?  I've just
done this for a brocade with long throws on the back.  The silk
organza basted over the long throws prevents snags  pulls.  It's
working just great.
--cin
Cynthia Barnes
cinbar...@gmail.com
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[h-cost] Help! Really want to copy an outfit from the movie Scrooge

[Michelle Plumb]

Hello, all.

I have questions about a beautiful outfit I saw in the 1970 version of 
the movie “Scrooge”.
The lovely Edith Evans portrays the Ghost of Christmas Past, and enters 
so beautifully dressed!


I have to copy it.

I know, it's Hollywood (okay, Shepperton), but it's just so lovely I'm 
willing to give up the authenticity factor.


I managed to get some still photos off the DVD.  They're on my Flickr site:

http://www.flickr.com/photos/24767089@N06/sets/72157629192291315/

Now, the questions.
The book was published in 1843, but doesn't give Scrooge's age.  That 
makes it very hard to guess what year the Ghost of Christmas Past 
originates.  Scrooge was a little boy, but how many years have passed?


Ms. Evans appears to be wearing a bronze or green silk gown and a 
pannier, with a red wool overcoat or overdress with a peplum.


What would the gown underneath have looked like?

Am I even close in my guesses of what I'm seeing?
Thanks,
Michelle
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Re: [h-cost] Help! Really want to copy an outfit from the movie Scrooge

[Joan Jurancich]

At 05:49 PM 2/6/2012, you wrote:

Hello, all.

I have questions about a beautiful outfit I saw in the 1970 version 
of the movie Scrooge.
The lovely Edith Evans portrays the Ghost of Christmas Past, and 
enters so beautifully dressed!


I have to copy it.

I know, it's Hollywood (okay, Shepperton), but it's just so lovely 
I'm willing to give up the authenticity factor.


I managed to get some still photos off the DVD.  They're on my Flickr site:

http://www.flickr.com/photos/24767089@N06/sets/72157629192291315/

Now, the questions.
The book was published in 1843, but doesn't give Scrooge's 
age.  That makes it very hard to guess what year the Ghost of 
Christmas Past originates.  Scrooge was a little boy, but how many 
years have passed?


Ms. Evans appears to be wearing a bronze or green silk gown and a 
pannier, with a red wool overcoat or overdress with a peplum.


What would the gown underneath have looked like?

Am I even close in my guesses of what I'm seeing?
Thanks,
Michelle


Scrooge was a relatively young man in c.1810-1820, when he worked for 
Mr. Fezziwig.  His childhood could well have been in the late 18th 
century, say the 1780s to 90s. The neckline of the gown resembles 
those dated 1770-80, 1775-85, and 1780-90 in Janet Arnold, Patterns 
of Fashion 1 (c.1660-1860). they are described in Arnold as either a 
polonaise or open gown and petticoat. The neckline is made modest 
by a buffon or handkerchief worn around the neck and tucked into 
the neckline.  Stays and a bustle pad or false rump was worn under the gown.


If I were making this outfit, I would base it on an open gown and petticoat.


Joan Jurancich
joa...@surewest.net 



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Re: [h-cost] Help! Really want to copy an outfit from the movie Scrooge

[Michelle Plumb]

Thank you, Joan!
That's a big help.
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Re: [h-cost] help on a c. 1900 rural woman's dress

[AVCHASE]

What my grandmother told me when I was a girl but a little background. she was 
born in Virginia in 1882. Her Father was an Anglo-Irish earl, who had 
relinquished his title to become an American citizen, and he became a circuit 
riding preacher after taking his family to West Virginia and farming there. My 
Grandmother, in her teens, went to work for another farm family, until she was 
nearly twenty. She earned fifty-cents a week, which would buy three yards of 
dress goods to make a work dress. The farmer's wife,from France, who became her 
MIL, was the area dress maker by default. the work dress fell loosely from the 
shoulders to slightly below the waist line. The dress skirt was attached there 
and there was a buttoned placket opening in the front from the neckline. I 
don't remember if she said it, the placket, fell to the hem, which was just 
above the ankles. The placket opening could button either to the left or right 
depending on the needs of the woman for whom it was made fo!
 r convenience when nursing. The sleeves were loose and long, buttoned, and 
often rolled, when working, to be kept clean. When working the fields it could 
be, that is was, often worn over mans loose work pants and and shirt. In the 
field, with only family present, it might be removed, but kept nearby in case 
another person appeared. A woman in engaged in field work would ride astride 
but kept the dress on. Her shoes, similar to brogans, ankle height lace-ups, 
cost her three weeks wages. In house she wore the dress with a straight cotton 
or wool slip and an apron either wrap around or pinned bib. Her stockings were 
heavy lisle fastened at the knee. Her drawers were crotch opened for ease of 
elimination and she wore no bra. Does this help. Please respond.

in the high boonies of Central Texas


PeoplePC Online
A better way to Internet
http://www.peoplepc.com

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Re: [h-cost] help on a c. 1900 rural woman's dress

[Marjorie Wilser]

Mine was born in Kansas in 1887. Yes on all accounts except for the  
trousers grin; they were a really conservative family.


Her wedding dress had been used to make my dad's first suit (I have  
the pattern, but not the suit). And her trousseau underwear featured a  
combination undergarment with wide legs and only a front placket. No  
open drawers for her, and bras were not yet common.


But Grandma, how did you -- I asked, thinking how difficult my one- 
piece coulottes dress was to remove to use the necessary.


Oh, she laughed, we just pulled one of the legs aside!

== Marjorie Wilser

=:=:=:Three Toad Press:=:=:=

Learn to laugh at yourself and you will never lack for amusement. --MW

http://3toad.blogspot.com/




On Oct 30, 2011, at 12:23 PM, AVCHASE wrote:
bib. Her stockings were heavy lisle fastened at the knee. Her  
drawers were crotch opened for ease of elimination and she wore no  
bra. Does this help. Please respond.


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Re: [h-cost] help on a c. 1900 rural woman's dress

[annbwass]

She earned fifty-cents a week, which would buy three yards of 
ress goods to make a work dress.

Given that the fabric was probably no wider than 36 inches, I don't see how 
three yards would make a dress as described.

Ann Wass



-Original Message-
From: AVCHASE achasedes...@peoplepc.com
To: Historical Costume h-cost...@indra.com
Sent: Sun, Oct 30, 2011 3:26 pm
Subject: Re: [h-cost] help on a c. 1900 rural woman's dress


What my grandmother told me when I was a girl but a little background. she was 
orn in Virginia in 1882. Her Father was an Anglo-Irish earl, who had 
elinquished his title to become an American citizen, and he became a circuit 
iding preacher after taking his family to West Virginia and farming there. My 
randmother, in her teens, went to work for another farm family, until she was 
early twenty. She earned fifty-cents a week, which would buy three yards of 
ress goods to make a work dress. The farmer's wife,from France, who became her 
IL, was the area dress maker by default. the work dress fell loosely from the 
houlders to slightly below the waist line. The dress skirt was attached there 
nd there was a buttoned placket opening in the front from the neckline. I don't 
emember if she said it, the placket, fell to the hem, which was just above the 
nkles. The placket opening could button either to the left or right depending 
n the needs of the woman for whom it was made fo!
r convenience when nursing. The sleeves were loose and long, buttoned, and 
ften rolled, when working, to be kept clean. When working the fields it could 
e, that is was, often worn over mans loose work pants and and shirt. In the 
ield, with only family present, it might be removed, but kept nearby in case 
nother person appeared. A woman in engaged in field work would ride astride but 
ept the dress on. Her shoes, similar to brogans, ankle height lace-ups, cost 
er three weeks wages. In house she wore the dress with a straight cotton or 
ool slip and an apron either wrap around or pinned bib. Her stockings were 
eavy lisle fastened at the knee. Her drawers were crotch opened for ease of 
limination and she wore no bra. Does this help. Please respond.
in the high boonies of Central Texas

eoplePC Online
 better way to Internet
ttp://www.peoplepc.com
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[h-cost] help on a c. 1900 rural woman's dress

[Challe Hudson]

My sister is trying to sew something completely outside my area of
expertise, but I offered to ask for advice here. She wants an everyday
gown for a farm woman to wear (in Piedmont North Carolina, in case
that makes a difference). These pages have information she's found
useful (though she hasn't bought any patterns. I've been helping her
with fittings and we've made up patterns as we went along). What she
needs to know now is: where is the opening in the skirt so that you
can get it on? And how does the skirt close? If you have any other
useful links, images, or construction tips, that would be appreciated,
too.

http://www.pastpatterns.com/903.html

http://www.costumes.org/history/100pages/woolskirt.htm

thanks!

Challe
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Re: [h-cost] help on a c. 1900 rural woman's dress

[Marjorie Wilser]

Hi Challe,

The Past Pattern view you linked to would probably have a continuing  
button placket in front past the waist to open the waist enough to get  
it on. The skirt in the other link would probably close in back or on  
the side, hidden by a pleat. A fold of fabric under the opening would  
prevent its showing any other clothing layers.


The Past Patterns dress is pretty, but might be overdressing for the  
farm. Have you ever heard of a Mother Hubbard or wrapper? Those  
are loose styles, buttoned down the front. A belt or an apron forms  
the properly waisted shape for the garment. Sometimes, back gathers or  
pleats are sewn in, but the front ones are typically left loose. Great  
for those who might be gaining weight or pregnant, but then might need  
to wear the same dress until it wore out, despite weight loss.


However, most women did not go without stays: they help the farmer's  
wife retain an aura of respectablity. :-D Period body shapers are a  
must for the right look, but you know that!


== Marjorie Wilser

=:=:=:Three Toad Press:=:=:=

Learn to laugh at yourself and you will never lack for amusement. --MW

http://3toad.blogspot.com/




On Oct 27, 2011, at 6:13 PM, Challe Hudson wrote:


My sister is trying to sew something completely outside my area of
expertise, but I offered to ask for advice here. She wants an everyday
gown for a farm woman to wear (in Piedmont North Carolina, in case
that makes a difference). These pages have information she's found
useful (though she hasn't bought any patterns. I've been helping her
with fittings and we've made up patterns as we went along). What she
needs to know now is: where is the opening in the skirt so that you
can get it on? And how does the skirt close? If you have any other
useful links, images, or construction tips, that would be appreciated,
too.

http://www.pastpatterns.com/903.html

http://www.costumes.org/history/100pages/woolskirt.htm

thanks!

Challe
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Re: [h-cost] help on a c. 1900 rural woman's dress

[Monica Spence]

I have a photo of my grandmother, a farmer's wife in c. 1890, Nebraska.
Buttons up the center front like the shirtwaist style dresses we are
probably all familiar with. 

Monica

-Original Message-
From: h-costume-boun...@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-boun...@indra.com] On
Behalf Of Kim Baird
Sent: Thursday, October 27, 2011 9:51 PM
To: 'Historical Costume'
Subject: Re: [h-cost] help on a c. 1900 rural woman's dress

Challe--

The Past Patterns dress would be suitable. The skirt closure on the other
pattern can be in any seam. Just include a placket and use hooks and eyes.

For work-a-day wear, a rural woman would most likely have a wash dress,
that is, a cotton dress, whether of one or two pieces, rather than a
shirtwaist and skirt. And definitely an apron.

Kim

-Original Message-
From: h-costume-boun...@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-boun...@indra.com] On
Behalf Of Challe Hudson
Sent: Thursday, October 27, 2011 8:13 PM
To: h-cost...@indra.com
Subject: [h-cost] help on a c. 1900 rural woman's dress

My sister is trying to sew something completely outside my area of
expertise, but I offered to ask for advice here. She wants an everyday gown
for a farm woman to wear (in Piedmont North Carolina, in case that makes a
difference). These pages have information she's found useful (though she
hasn't bought any patterns. I've been helping her with fittings and we've
made up patterns as we went along). What she needs to know now is: where is
the opening in the skirt so that you can get it on? And how does the skirt
close? If you have any other useful links, images, or construction tips,
that would be appreciated, too.

http://www.pastpatterns.com/903.html

http://www.costumes.org/history/100pages/woolskirt.htm

thanks!

Challe
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Re: [h-cost] help on a c. 1900 rural woman's dress

[Cactus]

I have made this pattern up twice.    It is a one piece dress.  Was very 
pleased with it.  Did fully line the bodice on both.  The front opening goes 
down into the skirt about 8' or so so you step into the dress.  I think it has 
pockets which I moved closer to the front of the skirt.  Seems the pocket was 
in a back section of the skirt which I thought would be very inconvenient.  
Instead of button holes, I did button loops and ball buttons down the front of 
each dress.
 
Cactus

 My sister is trying to sew something completely outside my area of
 expertise, but I offered to ask for advice here. She wants an everyday
 gown for a farm woman to wear (in Piedmont North Carolina, in case
 that makes a difference). These pages have information she's found
 useful (though she hasn't bought any patterns. I've been helping her
 with fittings and we've made up patterns as we went along). What she
 needs to know now is: where is the opening in the skirt so that you
 can get it on? And how does the skirt close? If you have any other
 useful links, images, or construction tips, that would be appreciated,
 too.
 
 http://www.pastpatterns.com/903.html
 
 http://www.costumes.org/history/100pages/woolskirt.htm
 
 thanks!
 
 Challe
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Re: [h-cost] help on a c. 1900 rural woman's dress

[Lavolta Press]

My parents used to go to rural PA estate auctions a lot.  I have a fair 
number of farm women's clothes from the late 19th and early 20th 
centuries, some from families my parents knew.


Most of the jackets and coats, and some of the underclothes, look 
commercially made. Most of the other clothes look homemade.


A possibly disproportionately surviving number of dresses and light 
jackets are black silk but not mourning, probably go-to-church best.


Day dresses run to two-piece calico shirtwaists.  Note, I have very 
few,  I think because people usually wore them out instead of storing 
them away.


Farm women also wore the lingerie dresses popular at the time.  These 
were standard for high school graduation dresses, and for good summer 
dresses.  Farm women wore lingerie blouses as well. Many of these look 
homemade, and the lace tends to be inexpensive, sturdy purchased lace or 
hand crocheted. The decoration is not usually super elaborate.


Petticoats for wear with silk dresses tended to be commercially made and 
black silk (but I do have a striped brown taffeta petticoat) . The 
others tend to be white cotton broadcloth (or some similar weight of 
cotton).  Most of the other underclothes are white cotton broadcloth. 
Homemade underclothes with sturdy hand-crocheted trimmings were popular, 
but machine eyelet and inexpensive machine lace were also used.  
Underclothing tends to appear a lot at auctions not because people 
usually attached sentimental value to it, but because they owned a lot 
of it in comparison to other categories of clothing.


I never saw any mourning clothes, and this was over a period of years. 
Nor any stored-away dresses that seemed to be wedding dresses (though 
lingerie dresses were sometimes used as rather low-budget summer wedding 
dresses).


Stockings:  Sturdy black silk (some hand knitted), hand-knitted linen, 
or white cotton knit fabric.  Often rather extensively darned.


I don't have many woolens; my parents bought some but most turned out to 
be moth infested.


This is from a slightly earlier period, but I have some circa 1895 
clothes that belonged to two farm women my parents knew when they were 
old ladies, but the clothes belonged to them when they were teenagers.  
This was one of the most prosperous farming families in the area at the 
time. The clothes look purchased and quite stylish, including a heavily 
beaded black silk velvet jacket with enormous sleeves.


And this is also from different periods, but my father once bought me 
several generations of clothes (1850s to 1920s) from the estate of a 
prosperous farming family that had owned a very elegant farmhouse.  A 
great deal of what they had stored was underclothing and much was quite 
fancy, including some very high-end-type lingerie with lots of skilled 
hand embroidery, from the mid-1910s.


So I'd say it's a question of not only whether the family farmed, and 
how rural the location was, but how much money they made.


A good source for finding out what purchased clothing farm women often 
wore, and what fabrics and trimmings they sewed with, is a Sears or 
similar catalog of the period.


I will digress: Has anyone seen the undecorated, bullet-proof, heavy 
linen European chemises that appear surprisingly often on eBay?  The 
ones that are pretty much in the style of the early 19th century, even 
though some sellers swear they were made much later (like, the 1920s) 
and I bet they were?  And after all this time and that many washings, 
they're still really stiff?   They may be European, and people tend to 
think they are clothes from farming families, but I really doubt it. 
Americans weren't wearing them, as far as I can tell. My theory is that 
they were worn in institutions:  convents, public hospitals, insane 
asylums, or the like, where a lot of similar clothing was worn by 
regulation, and sturdiness was considered more important than comfort, 
fashion, or appearance.


Fran
Lavolta Press
Books on historic clothing
www.lavoltapress.com
www.facebook.com/LavoltaPress


On 10/27/2011 6:13 PM, Challe Hudson wrote:

My sister is trying to sew something completely outside my area of
expertise, but I offered to ask for advice here. She wants an everyday
gown for a farm woman to wear (in Piedmont North Carolina, in case
that makes a difference). These pages have information she's found
useful (though she hasn't bought any patterns. I've been helping her
with fittings and we've made up patterns as we went along). What she
needs to know now is: where is the opening in the skirt so that you
can get it on? And how does the skirt close? If you have any other
useful links, images, or construction tips, that would be appreciated,
too.

http://www.pastpatterns.com/903.html

http://www.costumes.org/history/100pages/woolskirt.htm

thanks!

Challe
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Re: [h-cost] help identifying picture

[Katy Bishop]

Cool feature, I was going to guess something a little later than
Ingres or around the time of Tissot..The chemise she's wearing
looked very mid-19th century.

Katy

On Tue, Jul 19, 2011 at 12:28 AM, Elena House exst...@gmail.com wrote:
 Ooo, turns out Google has a nifty new way to search to do an image
 search:  you can drag an image into the image search bar, and it'll
 find similar images, often the same image but at a different
 resolution.
 Using that, I learned that the painting in question is:
 Ragazza in costume veneziano, 1874
 by Louis Joseph Raphaël Collin
 big version:
 http://www.lineadombra.it/sanmarino/images/headers/header_informazioni.jpg

 -E House


 http://images.cheezburger.com/imagestore/2010/9/9/330d9013-0b7f-468b-9c3a-b22044bb4e02.jpg

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-- 
Katy Bishop, Vintage Victorian
katybisho...@gmail.com                www.VintageVictorian.com
     Custom reproduction gowns of the Victorian Era.
      Publisher of the Vintage Dress Series books.

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Re: [h-cost] help identifying picture

[otsisto]

The chemise/camicia/hemd looks like it could pass for 1500s except for the
eyelet embroidery.
http://realmofvenus.renaissanceitaly.net/wardrobe/CARIANISeduction.JPG
http://realmofvenus.renaissanceitaly.net/wardrobe/VenetianLovers.JPG
http://realmofvenus.renaissanceitaly.net/wardrobe/NewUnknownWoman.jpg

extant
http://realmofvenus.renaissanceitaly.net/workbox/extcam5.htm

De

-Original Message-
Cool feature, I was going to guess something a little later than
Ingres or around the time of Tissot..The chemise she's wearing
looked very mid-19th century.

Katy
 big version:
 http://www.lineadombra.it/sanmarino/images/headers/header_informazioni.jpg

 -E House



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[h-cost] help identifying picture

[humbugfoto1]

Has anybody ever seen this before?

http://images.cheezburger.com/imagestore/2010/9/9/330d9013-0b7f-468b-9c3a-b22044bb4e02.jpg

It seems to me it's clearly a Victorian or later representation of a 
Renaissance style, either Italian or German. But I've never seen it 
before and have no idea where it came from. Can anyone help?


Julie
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Re: [h-cost] help identifying picture

[monica spence]

I'd guess it is Victorian or even 20thCentury. The Renaissance era paintings
I've seen seemed to always have the sitter looking out at the viewer. Here
you don't see her eyes at all. Creepy.

Monica Spence

-Original Message-
From: h-costume-boun...@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-boun...@indra.com] On
Behalf Of humbugfo...@att.net
Sent: Monday, July 18, 2011 3:15 PM
To: h-costume@mail.indra.com
Subject: [h-cost] help identifying picture

Has anybody ever seen this before?

http://images.cheezburger.com/imagestore/2010/9/9/330d9013-0b7f-468b-9c3a-b2
2044bb4e02.jpg

It seems to me it's clearly a Victorian or later representation of a 
Renaissance style, either Italian or German. But I've never seen it 
before and have no idea where it came from. Can anyone help?

Julie
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Re: [h-cost] help identifying picture

[Hope Greenberg]

Not quite an answer, but another vote for modern: A few years ago a 
Ren magazine (Renaissance? This one? 
http://www.renaissancemagazine.com/backissues/issue16.html) did a photo 
article on people dressed and in settings approximating rennaissance 
paintings. I don't recall your image as one of these specifically, but 
perhaps they have done similar things in other issues. At any rate it 
looks like a modern person in historical reproduction clothing with a 
bit of photoshopping to achieve a period look. I'm guessing modern 
because it looks neither period or Victorian.


- Hope

monica spence wrote:

I'd guess it is Victorian or even 20thCentury. The Renaissance era paintings
I've seen seemed to always have the sitter looking out at the viewer. Here
you don't see her eyes at all. Creepy.

Monica Spence

-Original Message-
From: h-costume-boun...@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-boun...@indra.com] On
Behalf Of humbugfo...@att.net
Sent: Monday, July 18, 2011 3:15 PM
To: h-costume@mail.indra.com
Subject: [h-cost] help identifying picture

Has anybody ever seen this before?

http://images.cheezburger.com/imagestore/2010/9/9/330d9013-0b7f-468b-9c3a-b2
2044bb4e02.jpg


  

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Re: [h-cost] help identifying picture

[Rickard, Patty]

Cheezburger.com is a site which among other things allows you to to modify pics 
(they call them lol builders) - usually with humorous results.
patty

-Original Message-
From: h-costume-boun...@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-boun...@indra.com] On 
Behalf Of monica spence
Sent: Monday, July 18, 2011 3:35 PM
To: 'Historical Costume'
Subject: Re: [h-cost] help identifying picture

I'd guess it is Victorian or even 20thCentury. The Renaissance era paintings 
I've seen seemed to always have the sitter looking out at the viewer. Here you 
don't see her eyes at all. Creepy.

Monica Spence

-Original Message-
From: h-costume-boun...@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-boun...@indra.com] On 
Behalf Of humbugfo...@att.net
Sent: Monday, July 18, 2011 3:15 PM
To: h-costume@mail.indra.com
Subject: [h-cost] help identifying picture

Has anybody ever seen this before?

http://images.cheezburger.com/imagestore/2010/9/9/330d9013-0b7f-468b-9c3a-b2
2044bb4e02.jpg

It seems to me it's clearly a Victorian or later representation of a 
Renaissance style, either Italian or German. But I've never seen it before and 
have no idea where it came from. Can anyone help?

Julie
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Re: [h-cost] help identifying picture

[otsisto]

The style of painting looks to be early 1900s, definitely modern. The
clothing style looks to be a blend of German and Italian.
The hat is German in style.
The hair would be in a caul with this type of hat.
The camicia/hemd style is seen both in Germany and Northern Italy in the
early Ren.
The gown looks N. Italian but it could pass for German. The sleeves look
more German then NI. because of the cuff being longer. The outfit might be
based off of a painting of someone from the border region of Italy and
German.
The Illuminated music looks close to Germanic style then Italian but my
knowledge in that area is limit to what I have seen when looking for an easy
style to recreate.

The more I review my Italian paintings the more the gown appears to be more
northern Europe in style.
De
My two cents.

-Original Message-
Has anybody ever seen this before?

http://images.cheezburger.com/imagestore/2010/9/9/330d9013-0b7f-468b-9c3a-b2
2044bb4e02.jpg

It seems to me it's clearly a Victorian or later representation of a
Renaissance style, either Italian or German. But I've never seen it
before and have no idea where it came from. Can anyone help?

Julie
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Re: [h-cost] help identifying picture

[Elena House]

Well, being somewhat familiar with the site in the caption at the
bottom of the image, I'd definitely view it with suspicion, as
evidenced by this:
http://chzhistoriclols.files.wordpress.com/2011/07/funny-pictures-history-disco-duck-what-manner-of-plainchant-be-this.jpg
from the same general site

Still, they must have gotten the image from somewhere, so now I'm curious too.

-E House


 -Original Message-
 http://images.cheezburger.com/imagestore/2010/9/9/330d9013-0b7f-468b-9c3a-b2
 2044bb4e02.jpg
 Julie
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Re: [h-cost] help identifying picture

[stilskin]

Would love to see the thing up close but it looks like a portrait painted from a
photograph as was very popular with infomercials a few years back. Style seems
to represent an absent-minded person in a time machine who has visited
Renaissance, Victorian and 1830s all on the same day ... days ... time(s) ...
Jeeze, I hate time travel,

-C.


 Has anybody ever seen this before?
 

http://images.cheezburger.com/imagestore/2010/9/9/330d9013-0b7f-468b-9c3a-b22044bb4e02.jpg
 




This email was sent from Netspace Webmail: http://www.netspace.net.au

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[h-cost] help in finding a website

[Rebecca]

Long ago I remember a website where one could test trim placements on
Elizabethan bodice/gown/doublet. Or something like that. However, I'm not
finding it in any of my links. Does anyone else remember this, know where it
went, or know if it is simply no longer in existence? Thanks!

 

Rebecca Schmitt

aka Agnyss Cabot, Guilde of St. Lawrence, Bristol Renn Faire

 

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Re: [h-cost] help in finding a website

[Guenievre de Monmarche]

It used to be @ Sempstress.org; it doesn't appear to still be there
BUT there's a copy of it on wayback.org

http://web.archive.org/web/20090419091243/http://www.sempstress.org/tools/dialadress.shtml

Jennifer

On Mon, Jun 13, 2011 at 3:16 PM, Rebecca lotsofteap...@charter.net wrote:
 Long ago I remember a website where one could test trim placements on
 Elizabethan bodice/gown/doublet. Or something like that. However, I'm not
 finding it in any of my links. Does anyone else remember this, know where it
 went, or know if it is simply no longer in existence? Thanks!



 Rebecca Schmitt

 aka Agnyss Cabot, Guilde of St. Lawrence, Bristol Renn Faire



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Re: [h-cost] help in finding a website

[WorkroomButtons.com]

Is there a direct link to wayback.org?  What a valuable resource!  Although... 
just looked up obsolete versions of my website via the Sempstress link, and... 
*cringe*

Dede
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Re: [h-cost] help in finding a website

[Guenievre de Monmarche]

The Wayback Machine is a resource from www.archive.org ...

Also I think you can ask that things be removed, but it's a bit
frustrating for people looking for it later.

Jennifer

On Mon, Jun 13, 2011 at 4:52 PM, WorkroomButtons.com
westvillagedrap...@yahoo.com wrote:
 Is there a direct link to wayback.org?  What a valuable resource!  
 Although... just looked up obsolete versions of my website via the Sempstress 
 link, and... *cringe*

 Dede
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Re: [h-cost] help in finding a website

[Rebecca]

A-ha! I thought I remembered it from Semptress long ago! Thanks much!

Rebecca Schmitt
aka Agnyss Cabot, Guilde of St. Lawrence, Bristol Renn Faire
-Original Message-
From: h-costume-boun...@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-boun...@indra.com] On
Behalf Of Guenievre de Monmarche
Sent: Monday, June 13, 2011 2:26 PM
To: Historical Costume
Subject: Re: [h-cost] help in finding a website

It used to be @ Sempstress.org; it doesn't appear to still be there
BUT there's a copy of it on wayback.org

http://web.archive.org/web/20090419091243/http://www.sempstress.org/tools/di
aladress.shtml

Jennifer

On Mon, Jun 13, 2011 at 3:16 PM, Rebecca lotsofteap...@charter.net wrote:
 Long ago I remember a website where one could test trim placements on
 Elizabethan bodice/gown/doublet. Or something like that. However, I'm not
 finding it in any of my links. Does anyone else remember this, know where
it
 went, or know if it is simply no longer in existence? Thanks!



 Rebecca Schmitt

 aka Agnyss Cabot, Guilde of St. Lawrence, Bristol Renn Faire



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[h-cost] Help identifying 2 fur pieces.

[Michelle Plumb]

As suggested, I measured both fur pieces.
The lighter one appears to be two critters attached at the center.  Each  
piece measures 19x4.
I measured several of the darker ones, and they are all about 16x3, nose  
to tail-tip.


Do any of you reenactors out there have a use for these?  I don't do fur  
myself, but I'm certainly not going to waste perfectly good mystery fur!   
It would probably make very pretty trim on something.


Besides, if I sell them maybe I can buy some swell wool or something.   LOL
Michelle
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[h-cost] HELP!

[penny1a]

I am having trouble receiving email from h-costume for the past month. Can
someone please forward this to Eliza or please send me privately her email
address.  Email me at penn...@costumegallery.com .  
 
Penny Ladnier
Owner, The Costume Gallery Websites
 http://www.costumegallery.com/ www.costumegallery.com
14 websites of fashion, textiles,  costume history
 
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Re: [h-cost] Help! Enlarging with a photocopier

[ladybeanofbunny1]

The home fabric deptarment IS very nice, esp for the heavier winter 
fabrics. I bought a load of stuff this past weekend, some which I need 
and some not now, but could definitely picture using for other projects 
later. That's how fabric shopping works! Those who don't do it, just 
don't get it and always wonder why we buy stuff we aren't using right 
now.

Because! That's why!!
You will never find a great deal on the same thing twice, ever. Atleast 
I've never had it happen. When you see something you love and you have 
the means to acquire it TAKE IT or else leave it and forget about since 
chances are it won't be there when you realize you should have gotten 
it. Take for example, Joann fabrics. I love their selection but boy 
does it hurt to use them as a main source of material for any project 
cause the bill is way too high. Last spring I went there to buy really 
elegant trims and just regular old cotton to make 1860's undies. A 
project that is still in the bag, literally. All i bought were a few 
yards of eyelet tape, lace beading, etc... my bill was $56! Now, most 
of the stuff I went there for and even turned down because it was too 
costly is now in the clearance bin for 97 cents a yard (I just learned 
there is no symbol on a computer keyboard for cents lol) so I bought a 
bunch of stuff, not needing it at this moment but well worth having.
So, I haven't touched my bustle project in a couple days because I 
started back to class this morning and I was more or less occupied with 
preparing for that and for gathering materials. I spent $57 Friday 
night buying stuff, most of which is the aforesaid don't need right now 
stuff, another $81 (with my student discount) first thing Sat morning 
when i went back for the fabric I didn't know if there would be enough 
of left on the roll to use for the project, and $37 at Joann's Sat 
afternoon when i went back out to look for some other stuff. This is 
why i don't use my fabric more often, because it always involves 
spending so much more on notions and such.
Do any other bustlers out there, or any period costumers for that 
matter, find that it REALLY costs alot to buy what is needed for doing 
these projects? Maybe I am just too picky with my fabrics and trims and 
spend more than i technically have to. Either way, this dress is not 
going to be ANYTHING like the original colour scheme I initially 
planned for it, and mainly because as usual there just wasn't any 
fabirc like what I wanted available.
What complicated things, is that the dress calls for a plastron, bodice 
back, and trimming all made from the dress fabric but embroidered, or a 
really nice contrasting fabric. It won't work without having the strips 
of material for trimming, because they are used to hold the back parts 
of the polonaise together with buckles. I foresee in the near future, 
spending alot of money to have them embroidered by my friend around the 
corner with the much needed embroiderer. Pity I don't have that king of 
all computerized home embroidering machines at a beautiful 
...$6k...(oy) now.
When i went to Joann's my goal was to find some sort of contrasting but 
harmonizing wide tape trim or ribbon to use instead. Had I found some, 
that would have left me  up the creek without a paddle for the plastron 
and bodice back so i think embroidery like originally used, even real 
fast sparse embroidered motifs, are best.


Ok that was more info than I probably needed to share with the list, 
and in response to developing an eye for period correct fabrics, I 
guess it depends also on the person and their goal, as the expectations 
for period correctness vary alot. Some costumers are strictly by the 
book, aiming to acheive the most authentic museum quality 
reproductions, even if that means sacrificing overall attractiveness 
for using instead of frilly inaccurate materials what's left of the 
drab but period correct fabrics available today for the modern 
costumer, and some use fabrics I don't even want to talk about. I',m 
somewhere in between, I try to be correct to the point where my pieces 
really capture the feel of that period in colour combos, textures, 
weight, etc... and i worry much less about things like fabric content 
because where I shop, that's not even really possible to find out. I 
try to keep it within the realm of fibers used, if the print or weave 
is special I dont worry about it because the pieces are for me to enjoy 
only and foremost is how attractive they are without looking silly or 
entirely out of context.


What are some good resources by the way, for researching period 
fabrics/fiber contents, dyes, weaves, prints, etc? I know elastic was 
available in the 1870s now, so i am going to use it as prescribed.


-Justine.

-Original Message-
From: Maggie maggi...@gmail.com
To: Historical Costume h-cost...@indra.com
Sent: Sun, Aug 30, 2009 11:56 am
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Help! Enlarging with a photocopier

Get on MJ's mailing list

Re: [h-cost] Help! Enlarging with a photocopier

[Maggie]

Get on MJ's mailing list. They frequently have very good sales. And yes,
the home dec department at any fabric store is frequently the place to find
the right fabric. Just be sure to train your eye for what period brocade or
tapestry patterns look like for the period you're working in. I hate seeing
Elizabethans done up in Edwardian cabbage roses, just for example.


MaggiRos

Maggie Secara
~A Compendium of Common Knowledge 1558-1603
Available at your favorite online bookseller
See our gallery at http://www.zazzle.com/popinjaypress


On Sat, Aug 29, 2009 at 10:15 AM, ladybeanofbun...@aol.com wrote:

 Good afternoon! Here is an update, so far so good (holding breath) using
 the grid method is working well. I went with that initial idea to translate
 each of the 1/4 inch squares from the paper where I traced the 1/8 scale
 pieces in the book onto and into a block of 4 of the 1 squares on my
 drafting board instead of square by square as did with the 1/4 pieces.
 They look good, they look like they are nearly my size, maybe a little
 long... which is the easiest alteration to make! Now today once I finished
 redrawing the the back skirt piece (big) and the polonaise side piece  I can
 get an idea of how much fabric I'll need, but will then be able to first
 make a mock up and really see how everything will fit.
 I've been making absolute use of my library on this project so I know what
 will really work on this dress. We have a few places I like to hit for
 fabric hunting but it's hit or miss and usually I only find great that stuff
 that I am not looking for, and never what I need. Where is a good place to
 find trimmings and fabrics for period costuming? MJ Trim (I think that's
 what it's called) out of NY has a lovely selection, if one can afford their
 prices. I could be wrong but it seems like some of the prettiest fabrics for
 period looking ensembles are decorator/home fabrics! They just have that
 oomph with colouring and pattern that most modern dress fabric lack.
 In the future I might try using the photocopier technique however. I
 already made the effort with the grid and have the roll of plain paper. Take
 care and happy Saturday! It's my last two days of freedom before classes
 start again :(
 -Justine.


 -Original Message-
 From: bphal...@aol.com
 To: h-cost...@indra.com
 Sent: Thu, Aug 27, 2009 10:58 pm
 Subject: Re: [h-cost] Help! Enlarging with a photocopier


  Also some copy places, Office Depot is one, have what are called
 blueprint printers that can enlarge pieces up to 36 inches wide.? The
 trick is to know what percentage to tell the copy operator.? The advantage
 of this is that you are not taping many letter sized sheets of paper
 together for a pattern.

 Britta/Vasilisa







 -Original Message-
 From: Viv Watkins viv.watk...@virgin.net
 To: Historical Costume h-cost...@indra.com
 Sent: Thu, Aug 27, 2009 2:34 am
 Subject: Re: [h-cost] Help! Enlarging with a photocopier









 My other goal for today that didn't happen was to try just the
 photocopying
 method. Is there any particular number of times that anyone knows of that I
 should enlarge each scaled down peice? If the pieces are 1/4 scale, would
 that mean I'd enlarge them 75%? Oy, math definitely isn't my cup of tea,
 I'm
 just wishing now the author was more clear on how to scale up. It sort of
 leaves no purpose to have patterns if one has to pretty much redraw each
 peice!??
 ?

 I have used a photocopier to enlarge lettering for a banner but not for
 pattern pieces.  Unfortunately you can't just enlarge, say one inch to four
 inches, by using 400% - the photocopier enlarges by area not length.  I
 just
 experimented until I got the right size - most photocopiers let you set a
 'custom' %.  You will probably have to enlarge your first size and then
 enlarge your enlargements!  You just need time and to be ready for
 'millions' of sheets of paper.  But once you have it worked out you can get
 your pieces and sellotape them together!?
 ?

 Good luck?

 Viv ?

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Re: [h-cost] Help! Enlarging with a photocopier

[ladybeanofbunny1]

Good afternoon! Here is an update, so far so good (holding breath) 
using the grid method is working well. I went with that initial idea to 
translate each of the 1/4 inch squares from the paper where I traced 
the 1/8 scale pieces in the book onto and into a block of 4 of the 1 
squares on my drafting board instead of square by square as did with 
the 1/4 pieces.
They look good, they look like they are nearly my size, maybe a little 
long... which is the easiest alteration to make! Now today once I 
finished redrawing the the back skirt piece (big) and the polonaise 
side piece  I can get an idea of how much fabric I'll need, but will 
then be able to first make a mock up and really see how everything will 
fit.
I've been making absolute use of my library on this project so I know 
what will really work on this dress. We have a few places I like to hit 
for fabric hunting but it's hit or miss and usually I only find great 
that stuff that I am not looking for, and never what I need. Where is a 
good place to find trimmings and fabrics for period costuming? MJ Trim 
(I think that's what it's called) out of NY has a lovely selection, if 
one can afford their prices. I could be wrong but it seems like some of 
the prettiest fabrics for period looking ensembles are decorator/home 
fabrics! They just have that oomph with colouring and pattern that most 
modern dress fabric lack.
In the future I might try using the photocopier technique however. I 
already made the effort with the grid and have the roll of plain paper. 
Take care and happy Saturday! It's my last two days of freedom before 
classes start again :(

-Justine.

-Original Message-
From: bphal...@aol.com
To: h-cost...@indra.com
Sent: Thu, Aug 27, 2009 10:58 pm
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Help! Enlarging with a photocopier


 Also some copy places, Office Depot is one, have what are called 
blueprint printers that can enlarge pieces up to 36 inches wide.? The 
trick is to know what percentage to tell the copy operator.? The 
advantage of this is that you are not taping many letter sized sheets 
of paper together for a pattern.


Britta/Vasilisa







-Original Message-
From: Viv Watkins viv.watk...@virgin.net
To: Historical Costume h-cost...@indra.com
Sent: Thu, Aug 27, 2009 2:34 am
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Help! Enlarging with a photocopier









My other goal for today that didn't happen was to try just the 
photocopying
method. Is there any particular number of times that anyone knows of 
that I
should enlarge each scaled down peice? If the pieces are 1/4 scale, 
would
that mean I'd enlarge them 75%? Oy, math definitely isn't my cup of 
tea, I'm
just wishing now the author was more clear on how to scale up. It sort 
of
leaves no purpose to have patterns if one has to pretty much redraw 
each

peice!??
?

I have used a photocopier to enlarge lettering for a banner but not for
pattern pieces.  Unfortunately you can't just enlarge, say one inch to 
four
inches, by using 400% - the photocopier enlarges by area not length.  I 
just
experimented until I got the right size - most photocopiers let you set 
a

'custom' %.  You will probably have to enlarge your first size and then
enlarge your enlargements!  You just need time and to be ready for
'millions' of sheets of paper.  But once you have it worked out you can 
get

your pieces and sellotape them together!?
?

Good luck?

Viv ?

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Re: [h-cost] Help! Enlarging with a photocopier

[Viv Watkins]

My other goal for today that didn't happen was to try just the photocopying 
method. Is there any particular number of times that anyone knows of that I 
should enlarge each scaled down peice? If the pieces are 1/4 scale, would 
that mean I'd enlarge them 75%? Oy, math definitely isn't my cup of tea, I'm 
just wishing now the author was more clear on how to scale up. It sort of 
leaves no purpose to have patterns if one has to pretty much redraw each 
peice!?


I have used a photocopier to enlarge lettering for a banner but not for 
pattern pieces.  Unfortunately you can't just enlarge, say one inch to four 
inches, by using 400% - the photocopier enlarges by area not length.  I just 
experimented until I got the right size - most photocopiers let you set a 
'custom' %.  You will probably have to enlarge your first size and then 
enlarge your enlargements!  You just need time and to be ready for 
'millions' of sheets of paper.  But once you have it worked out you can get 
your pieces and sellotape them together!


Good luck
Viv 


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Re: [h-cost] HELP! Hann,is this your system method?

[Melody Watts]

Hi Hanna,
Is the method of drafting your describing called the lutterloh-system?.
I've seen this demo ed and it looks really easy.
 
Here's a web address to get you to their instructional video, it explains how 
to use  the system. 
 
 http://www.lutterloh-system.com/shop/pi1150199578.htm?categoryId=7
 
I'd like to try this someday.
Melody

 
--- On Tue, 8/25/09, Hanna Zickermann h.zickerm...@gmx.de wrote:


From: Hanna Zickermann h.zickerm...@gmx.de
Subject: Re: [h-cost] HELP!
To: Historical Costume h-cost...@indra.com
Date: Tuesday, August 25, 2009, 2:16 PM


Hi,

there´s a method called radial projection or something like that.

Get a rather large copy of the pattern you want to make and have the scale on 
the copy. Glue the copy on a large sheet of paper. Choose one point in a corner 
of the pattern piece and draw long lines from there through the important 
points. One after another, multiply these distances with the factor you need 
to get the full-size scale and mark this new distance on the line. Connect all 
important points and you will get a full scale pattern. I find it hard to 
explain without a drawing how to do it, and my English is quite tired right 
now, but I hope you understand what I mean. It´s really easy and a lot faster 
than using a grid - which is a method where usually can´t count the boxes and 
end up with a really strange pattern piece...

Hanna

At 10:42 25.08.2009, you wrote:
 Hello all, I am in need of some help from an experienced pattern enlarging 
 bustle dress maker! I woud like to throw together my first bustle dress, or 
 make for myself a bustle since my budget is not allowing any new 
 acquirements. At one point before I got very enthusiastic about doing this, 
 as I have many times, but got so overwhelmed before even starting due to 
 facing the dred task of grading that it never came into fruition. I would 
 try ordering a pattern from one of the many good sellers of period patterns, 
 but I want something very specific, I don't have time to wait for one to 
 arrive, and I can't afford to spend on one (especially since I spent so much 
 for the three books new which have hundreds of patterns).
 
 The pieces given scare me in each scaled down pattern, because I know quite 
 often, to acheive from the basic pieces the glorious ensemble presented in 
 the illustrations, there is usually a good deal of improvising and use of 
 skill the handy seamstress must utilize to do so!
 
 Here are my main questions.
 1: How do I enlarge the tiny pieces in the book the simplest, quickest, or 
 least math saavy way?
 2: Once I have the pieces enlarged and they are adjusted to my size and I'm 
 ready to cut, how do I assemble a bustle skirt??
 
 These are NOT simple one or two sentence answers I know, but any guidance 
 would be greatly appreciated right about now. I've used period patterns that 
 I bought multi-sized and kinda had to play with those until they fit me the 
 right away and could figure out basic construction but this seems so daunting 
 having never done it before.
 
 Thank you so very much for the kind person who can help, and to all others 
 for your patience:)
 
 Regards,
 Justine.
 
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Re: [h-cost] HELP! Hann,is this your system method?

[Hanna Zickermann]

Hi Melody,

yes, it´s similar, but you have only one scale 
for all measures and have to calculate that 
yourself. However, it´s a quick way to enlarge a 
pattern and causes me less pain than counting grids... :-)


Hanna

At 11:38 27.08.2009, you wrote:

Hi Hanna,
Is the method of drafting your describing called the lutterloh-system?.
I've seen this demo ed and it looks really easy.

Here's a web address to get you to their 
instructional video, it explains how to use  the system.


 http://www.lutterloh-system.com/shop/pi1150199578.htm?categoryId=7

I'd like to try this someday.
Melody


--- On Tue, 8/25/09, Hanna Zickermann h.zickerm...@gmx.de wrote:


From: Hanna Zickermann h.zickerm...@gmx.de
Subject: Re: [h-cost] HELP!
To: Historical Costume h-cost...@indra.com
Date: Tuesday, August 25, 2009, 2:16 PM


Hi,

there´s a method called radial projection or something like that.

Get a rather large copy of the pattern you want 
to make and have the scale on the copy. Glue the 
copy on a large sheet of paper. Choose one point 
in a corner of the pattern piece and draw long 
lines from there through the important points. 
One after another, multiply these distances with 
the factor you need to get the full-size scale 
and mark this new distance on the line. Connect 
all important points and you will get a full 
scale pattern. I find it hard to explain without 
a drawing how to do it, and my English is quite 
tired right now, but I hope you understand what 
I mean. It´s really easy and a lot faster than 
using a grid - which is a method where usually 
can´t count the boxes and end up with a really strange pattern piece...


Hanna

At 10:42 25.08.2009, you wrote:
 Hello all, I am in need of some help from an 
experienced pattern enlarging bustle dress 
maker! I woud like to throw together my first 
bustle dress, or make for myself a bustle since 
my budget is not allowing any new acquirements. 
At one point before I got very enthusiastic 
about doing this, as I have many times, but got 
so overwhelmed before even starting due to 
facing the dred task of grading that it never 
came into fruition. I would try ordering a 
pattern from one of the many good sellers of 
period patterns, but I want something very 
specific, I don't have time to wait for one to 
arrive, and I can't afford to spend on one 
(especially since I spent so much for the three 
books new which have hundreds of patterns).


 The pieces given scare me in each scaled down 
pattern, because I know quite often, to acheive 
from the basic pieces the glorious ensemble 
presented in the illustrations, there is 
usually a good deal of improvising and use of 
skill the handy seamstress must utilize to do so!


 Here are my main questions.
 1: How do I enlarge the tiny pieces in the 
book the simplest, quickest, or least math saavy way?
 2: Once I have the pieces enlarged and they 
are adjusted to my size and I'm ready to cut, 
how do I assemble a bustle skirt??


 These are NOT simple one or two sentence 
answers I know, but any guidance would be 
greatly appreciated right about now. I've used 
period patterns that I bought multi-sized and 
kinda had to play with those until they fit me 
the right away and could figure out basic 
construction but this seems so daunting having never done it before.


 Thank you so very much for the kind person 
who can help, and to all others for your patience:)


 Regards,
 Justine.

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Re: [h-cost] Help!

[Audrey Bergeron-Morin]

 knows of that I should enlarge each scaled down peice? If the pieces are 1/4
 scale, would that mean I'd enlarge them 75%?

Well, 75% means 75% of the original size, which would be smaller.

100% is an exact photocopy.

So, if you want to make it four times as big as the original, you have
to put 400% into the machine.
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Re: [h-cost] Help! Enlarging with a photocopier

[bphall76]

 Also some copy places, Office Depot is one, have what are called blueprint 
printers that can enlarge pieces up to 36 inches wide.? The trick is to know 
what percentage to tell the copy operator.? The advantage of this is that you 
are not taping many letter sized sheets of paper together for a pattern.

Britta/Vasilisa


 


 

-Original Message-
From: Viv Watkins viv.watk...@virgin.net
To: Historical Costume h-cost...@indra.com
Sent: Thu, Aug 27, 2009 2:34 am
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Help! Enlarging with a photocopier









My other goal for today that didn't happen was to try just the photocopying 
method. Is there any particular number of times that anyone knows of that I 
should enlarge each scaled down peice? If the pieces are 1/4 scale, would 
that mean I'd enlarge them 75%? Oy, math definitely isn't my cup of tea, I'm 
just wishing now the author was more clear on how to scale up. It sort of 
leaves no purpose to have patterns if one has to pretty much redraw each 
peice!??
?

I have used a photocopier to enlarge lettering for a banner but not for 
pattern pieces.  Unfortunately you can't just enlarge, say one inch to four 
inches, by using 400% - the photocopier enlarges by area not length.  I just 
experimented until I got the right size - most photocopiers let you set a 
'custom' %.  You will probably have to enlarge your first size and then 
enlarge your enlargements!  You just need time and to be ready for 
'millions' of sheets of paper.  But once you have it worked out you can get 
your pieces and sellotape them together!?
?

Good luck?

Viv ?

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Re: [h-cost] HELP!

[ladybeanofbunny1]

Hi all. Well, I started battling the grid method last night. I started 
by tracing the pieces onto the 1/4 graph paper and I felt like 
everything was going great... and I knew exactly how to dive into the 
next step, which is redrawing the unscaled pieces using the 1 grid 
cutting board. Here's where I tripped... the pieces are in 1/8 scale. 
Two pieces provided however are in 1/4. I began to question how I am 
supposed to do the enlarging from that scale and maybe I was just 
overtired but nothing was making anymore sense to me so I stopped for 
the night. My goal today is to see about finding somewhere that has a 
projector, maybe the library, or even finding a cheap one I could pick 
up at the office supply store.


Either way, I mean no matter how I enlarge them it is true, I already 
knew that doing mock-ups from muslin will be my first chore before I 
start planning how much material to get from a finished pattern set. 
Luckily, hopefully, I have time for this trial and error period. I will 
be wearing the full period undergarments under the dress, nor do I mind 
the period-correct limited range of motion that was designed into the 
clothing. It's probably the shoulders and height I'll have to adjust 
since while I'm not tall, 150 years ago I would be considered so, and 
my arms tend to be a tad unproportionately longer than they probably 
should be, even for today. Right now I'm worried just about getting 
full size patterns.


Take care:)
Justine.


-Original Message-
From: Maggie maggi...@gmail.com
To: Historical Costume h-cost...@indra.com
Sent: Tue, Aug 25, 2009 11:43 pm
Subject: Re: [h-cost] HELP!

No matter how you blow up the one period pattern you have, you're still 
only
getting the pattern that was made for that one person in their 
particular
proportions. No matter what you do, you're going to have to do a 
mock-up,

and pinch and tweak and fiddle till you have a pattern for you.

But I think you knew that :-)

MaggiRos


Maggie Secara
~A Compendium of Common Knowledge 1558-1603
Available at your favorite online bookseller
See our gallery at http://www.zazzle.com/popinjaypress


On Tue, Aug 25, 2009 at 2:40 PM, Rickard, Patty ricka...@muc.edu 
wrote:



Even if there's not projector distortion, there's the problem (since
various parts of the body do not increase in size at the same rate 

between

sizes) that an enlargement to fit the bust, for example, may make the
armscye, for example, too large, too small,  or in the wrong place. 

It's a

place to start, though.
Patty


From: h-costume-boun...@indra.com [h-costume-boun...@indra.com] On 

Behalf

Of Kimiko Small [sstormwa...@yahoo.com]
Sent: Tuesday, August 25, 2009 4:28 PM
To: Historical Costume
Subject: Re: [h-cost] HELP!

I did that once with a transparency. The only issue is that in some
overhead projectors, there is a distortion along the edges, so what 

may be
accurate in the middle, will end up slightly larger at the edges, so 

you
have to keep the image you are drawing in the middle of the field. 

You can
also get a book projector at the craft store to transfer an image 

directly

from a book, but again, check for distortion along the edge.

If I must, I prefer to grid up directly from a book onto gridded 

pattern
paper by hand. But then gridded paper are not all that accurate 

either but
decently close. Now I've been draping onto the body instead, but that 

does

take some good book or good teacher to help learn.

Kimiko
 Kimiko Small
http://www.kimiko1.com
Be the change you want to see in the world. ~ Ghandi

Coming soon: The Tudor Lady's Wardrobe

http://www.margospatterns.com/





From: Maggie maggi...@gmail.com

It's also possible to make a transparency of the pattern page, then 

put it
on an overhead projector and project it on to paper or a sheet on 

the




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Re: [h-cost] HELP!

[Penny Roberts]

 My goal today is to see about finding somewhere that has a projector, maybe 
the library, or even finding a cheap one I could pick up at the office supply 
store.
Michaels or Hobby Lobby, they have a variety of prices







From: ladybeanofbun...@aol.com ladybeanofbun...@aol.com
To: h-cost...@indra.com
Sent: Wednesday, August 26, 2009 11:53:40 AM
Subject: Re: [h-cost] HELP!

Hi all. Well, I started battling the grid method last night. I started by 
tracing the pieces onto the 1/4 graph paper and I felt like everything was 
going great... and I knew exactly how to dive into the next step, which is 
redrawing the unscaled pieces using the 1 grid cutting board. Here's where I 
tripped... the pieces are in 1/8 scale. Two pieces provided however are in 
1/4. I began to question how I am supposed to do the enlarging from that scale 
and maybe I was just overtired but nothing was making anymore sense to me so I 
stopped for the night. My goal today is to see about finding somewhere that has 
a projector, maybe the library, or even finding a cheap one I could pick up at 
the office supply store.

Either way, I mean no matter how I enlarge them it is true, I already knew that 
doing mock-ups from muslin will be my first chore before I start planning how 
much material to get from a finished pattern set. Luckily, hopefully, I have 
time for this trial and error period. I will be wearing the full period 
undergarments under the dress, nor do I mind the period-correct limited range 
of motion that was designed into the clothing. It's probably the shoulders and 
height I'll have to adjust since while I'm not tall, 150 years ago I would be 
considered so, and my arms tend to be a tad unproportionately longer than they 
probably should be, even for today. Right now I'm worried just about getting 
full size patterns.

T

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Re: [h-cost] HELP!

[Kate Pinner]

I could be wrong, but I would try doubling the 1/8th ones ;i.e. if one
square = 1 in 1/4 scale, then 2x2 squares of the 1/8 = 1 


Kate Pinner

-Original Message-
From: h-costume-boun...@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-boun...@indra.com] On
Behalf Of ladybeanofbun...@aol.com
Sent: Wednesday, August 26, 2009 12:54 PM
To: h-cost...@indra.com
Subject: Re: [h-cost] HELP!

Hi all. Well, I started battling the grid method last night. I started by
tracing the pieces onto the 1/4 graph paper and I felt like everything was
going great... and I knew exactly how to dive into the next step, which is
redrawing the unscaled pieces using the 1 grid cutting board. Here's where
I tripped... the pieces are in 1/8 scale. 
Two pieces provided however are in 1/4. I began to question how I am
supposed to do the enlarging from that scale and maybe I was just overtired
but nothing was making anymore sense to me so I stopped for the night. My
goal today is to see about finding somewhere that has a projector, maybe the
library, or even finding a cheap one I could pick up at the office supply
store.

Either way, I mean no matter how I enlarge them it is true, I already knew
that doing mock-ups from muslin will be my first chore before I start
planning how much material to get from a finished pattern set. 
Luckily, hopefully, I have time for this trial and error period. I will be
wearing the full period undergarments under the dress, nor do I mind the
period-correct limited range of motion that was designed into the clothing.
It's probably the shoulders and height I'll have to adjust since while I'm
not tall, 150 years ago I would be considered so, and my arms tend to be a
tad unproportionately longer than they probably should be, even for today.
Right now I'm worried just about getting full size patterns.

Take care:)
Justine.


-Original Message-
From: Maggie maggi...@gmail.com
To: Historical Costume h-cost...@indra.com
Sent: Tue, Aug 25, 2009 11:43 pm
Subject: Re: [h-cost] HELP!

No matter how you blow up the one period pattern you have, you're still only
getting the pattern that was made for that one person in their particular
proportions. No matter what you do, you're going to have to do a mock-up,
and pinch and tweak and fiddle till you have a pattern for you.

But I think you knew that :-)

 MaggiRos


Maggie Secara
~A Compendium of Common Knowledge 1558-1603 Available at your favorite
online bookseller See our gallery at http://www.zazzle.com/popinjaypress


On Tue, Aug 25, 2009 at 2:40 PM, Rickard, Patty ricka...@muc.edu
wrote:

 Even if there's not projector distortion, there's the problem (since 
 various parts of the body do not increase in size at the same rate
between
 sizes) that an enlargement to fit the bust, for example, may make the 
 armscye, for example, too large, too small,  or in the wrong place.
It's a
 place to start, though.
 Patty

 
 From: h-costume-boun...@indra.com [h-costume-boun...@indra.com] On
Behalf
 Of Kimiko Small [sstormwa...@yahoo.com]
 Sent: Tuesday, August 25, 2009 4:28 PM
 To: Historical Costume
 Subject: Re: [h-cost] HELP!

 I did that once with a transparency. The only issue is that in some 
 overhead projectors, there is a distortion along the edges, so what
may be
 accurate in the middle, will end up slightly larger at the edges, so
you
 have to keep the image you are drawing in the middle of the field. 
You can
 also get a book projector at the craft store to transfer an image
directly
 from a book, but again, check for distortion along the edge.

 If I must, I prefer to grid up directly from a book onto gridded
pattern
 paper by hand. But then gridded paper are not all that accurate
either but
 decently close. Now I've been draping onto the body instead, but that
does
 take some good book or good teacher to help learn.

 Kimiko
  Kimiko Small
 http://www.kimiko1.com
 Be the change you want to see in the world. ~ Ghandi

 Coming soon: The Tudor Lady's Wardrobe

 http://www.margospatterns.com/




 
 From: Maggie maggi...@gmail.com

 It's also possible to make a transparency of the pattern page, then
put it
 on an overhead projector and project it on to paper or a sheet on
the



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[h-cost] Help!

[Julie]

 Thank you everyone so much for your suggestions. The recommendation on
 using a projector has always intrigued me but the unfortunate thing is
 that now days people who would or did once use them are less likely to,
 since the upgraded technology has led many to discard the old projector
 and adopt newer systems such as power point slides, etc.

I was at Michael's yesterday and they had 3 different projectors that weren't 
horribly expensive.
Julie
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Re: [h-cost] Help!

[ladybeanofbunny1]

Well... my progress wasn't too great today since I was busy all 
afternoon doing other things, but I went to Staples first to see if 
they had projectors while I was there pricing large-format copies and 
they have two models, both $199. That seems like an awful but it's 
Staples, office supplies. Maybe Michael's has different kinds, perhaps 
if theirs are less the kind they stock are more intended for hobby 
purpose as opposed to an office supplier selling a heavier duty stock 
intended for use in a business, so Michael's is the next venture.


Initially my instinct was to work out the difference between 1/4 and 
1/8 the same way suggested, since 1/8 is half, so to make up the 
difference use two boxes instead but i got all frazzled trying to 
figure out how. I think I might know now. My other goal for today that 
didn't happen was to try just the photocopying method. Is there any 
particular number of times that anyone knows of that I should enlarge 
each scaled down peice? If the pieces are 1/4 scale, would that mean 
I'd enlarge them 75%? Oy, math definitely isn't my cup of tea, I'm just 
wishing now the author was more clear on how to scale up. It sort of 
leaves no purpose to have patterns if one has to pretty much redraw 
each peice!?


-Justine:)

-Original Message-
From: Julie jtkn...@jtknits.cts.com
To: h-cost...@indra.com; h-costume@mail.indra.com
Sent: Wed, Aug 26, 2009 3:02 pm
Subject: [h-cost] Help!


Thank you everyone so much for your suggestions. The recommendation on
using a projector has always intrigued me but the unfortunate thing is
that now days people who would or did once use them are less likely 

to,
since the upgraded technology has led many to discard the old 

projector

and adopt newer systems such as power point slides, etc.


I was at Michael's yesterday and they had 3 different projectors that 
weren't horribly expensive.

Julie
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Re: [h-cost] Help!

[Marjorie Wilser]

Justine,

Hie thy buns to a graphics supply store and see if they have a  
percentage conversion wheel. It's a wonder. You can take any inch (or  
pica!) measurement at all, move the outer ring to the desired  
measurement, and presto, here's your pecentage to enlarge.


== Marjorie Wilser

=:=:=:Three Toad Press:=:=:=

Learn to laugh at yourself and you will never lack for amusement. --MW

http://3toad.blogspot.com/


On Aug 26, 2009, at 5:36 PM, ladybeanofbun...@aol.com wrote:

Initially my instinct was to work out the difference between 1/4  
and 1/8 the same way suggested, since 1/8 is half, so to make up  
the difference use two boxes instead but i got all frazzled trying  
to figure out how. I think I might know now. My other goal for  
today that didn't happen was to try just the photocopying method.  
Is there any particular number of times that anyone knows of that I  
should enlarge each scaled down peice? If the pieces are 1/4 scale,  
would that mean I'd enlarge them 75%? Oy, math definitely isn't my  
cup of tea, I'm just wishing now the author was more clear on how  
to scale up. It sort of leaves no purpose to have patterns if one  
has to pretty much redraw each peice!?




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[h-cost] HELP!

[ladybeanofbunny1]

Hello all, I am in need of some help from an experienced pattern 
enlarging bustle dress maker! I woud like to throw together my first 
bustle dress, or make for myself a bustle since my budget is not 
allowing any new acquirements. At one point before I got very 
enthusiastic about doing this, as I have many times, but got so 
overwhelmed before even starting due to facing the dred task of 
grading that it never came into fruition. I would try ordering a 
pattern from one of the many good sellers of period patterns, but I 
want something very specific, I don't have time to wait for one to 
arrive, and I can't afford to spend on one (especially since I spent so 
much for the three books new which have hundreds of patterns).


The pieces given scare me in each scaled down pattern, because I know 
quite often, to acheive from the basic pieces the glorious ensemble 
presented in the illustrations, there is usually a good deal of 
improvising and use of skill the handy seamstress must utilize to do so!


Here are my main questions.
1: How do I enlarge the tiny pieces in the book the simplest, quickest, 
or least math saavy way?
2: Once I have the pieces enlarged and they are adjusted to my size and 
I'm ready to cut, how do I assemble a bustle skirt??


These are NOT simple one or two sentence answers I know, but any 
guidance would be greatly appreciated right about now. I've used period 
patterns that I bought multi-sized and kinda had to play with those 
until they fit me the right away and could figure out basic 
construction but this seems so daunting having never done it before.


Thank you so very much for the kind person who can help, and to all 
others for your patience:)


Regards,
Justine.

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Re: [h-cost] HELP!

[Penny Roberts]

I use copies of patterns in Excel and use it to increase the size of the pattern
Good luck





From: ladybeanofbun...@aol.com ladybeanofbun...@aol.com
To: h-cost...@indra.com
Sent: Tuesday, August 25, 2009 3:42:17 AM
Subject: [h-cost] HELP!

Hello all, I am in need of some help from an experienced pattern enlarging 
bustle dress maker! I woud like to throw together my first bustle dress, or 
make for myself a bustle since my budget is not allowing any new acquirements. 
At one point before I got very enthusiastic about doing this, as I have many 
times, but got so overwhelmed before even starting due to facing the dred task 
of grading that it never came into fruition. I would try ordering a pattern 
from one of the many good sellers of period patterns, but I want something very 
specific, I don't have time to wait for one to arrive, and I can't afford to 
spend on one (especially since I spent so much for the three books new which 
have hundreds of patterns).

The pieces given scare me in each scaled down pattern, because I know quite 
often, to acheive from the basic pieces the glorious ensemble presented in the 
illustrations, there is usually a good deal of improvising and use of skill the 
handy seamstress must utilize to do so!

Here are my main questions.
1: How do I enlarge the tiny pieces in the book the simplest, quickest, or 
least math saavy way?
2: Once I have the pieces enlarged and they are adjusted to my size and I'm 
ready to cut, how do I assemble a bustle skirt??

These are NOT simple one or two sentence answers I know, but any guidance would 
be greatly appreciated right about now. I've used period patterns that I bought 
multi-sized and kinda had to play with those until they fit me the right away 
and could figure out basic construction but this seems so daunting having never 
done it before.

Thank you so very much for the kind person who can help, and to all others for 
your patience:)

Regards,
Justine.

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Re: [h-cost] HELP!

[Ruth Anne Baumgartner]

The way I learned in the sixth grade to enlarge any drawing is to  
grid it out on the page and then grid out the larger piece of paper  
according to the desired size--that is, in the case of a pattern  
illustration, if the illustration as printed is scaled so that 1/4  
represents 1, then grid out the illustration in 1/4 squares, and  
grid out your larger page in 1 squares. Then draw the same lines, in  
the same positions, in your 1 squares that you see in the  
corresponding 1/4 squares. This is a pretty reliable method if you  
have a good eye.


An even easier method nowadays is to photocopy the original  
illustration, and then enlarge it by photocopying on an enlargement  
setting (enlarge 200%, for example).


Or you can scan the illustration, put the scanned image into a layout  
program like InDesign or into Photoshop, and manipulate the size with  
the program's enlargement or image size tools.


Any of these methods will enable you to enlarge a printed  
illustration to full-size.


As to adjusting for CLOTHING size, I leave that to savvier heads than  
mine.


--Ruth Anne Baumgartner
scholar gypsy and amateur costumer

On Aug 25, 2009, at 9:01 AM, Penny Roberts wrote:

I use copies of patterns in Excel and use it to increase the size  
of the pattern

Good luck





From: ladybeanofbun...@aol.com ladybeanofbun...@aol.com
To: h-cost...@indra.com
Sent: Tuesday, August 25, 2009 3:42:17 AM
Subject: [h-cost] HELP!

Hello all, I am in need of some help from an experienced pattern  
enlarging bustle dress maker! I woud like to throw together my  
first bustle dress, or make for myself a bustle since my budget is  
not allowing any new acquirements. At one point before I got very  
enthusiastic about doing this, as I have many times, but got so  
overwhelmed before even starting due to facing the dred task of  
grading that it never came into fruition. I would try ordering a  
pattern from one of the many good sellers of period patterns, but I  
want something very specific, I don't have time to wait for one to  
arrive, and I can't afford to spend on one (especially since I  
spent so much for the three books new which have hundreds of  
patterns).


The pieces given scare me in each scaled down pattern, because I  
know quite often, to acheive from the basic pieces the glorious  
ensemble presented in the illustrations, there is usually a good  
deal of improvising and use of skill the handy seamstress must  
utilize to do so!


Here are my main questions.
1: How do I enlarge the tiny pieces in the book the simplest,  
quickest, or least math saavy way?
2: Once I have the pieces enlarged and they are adjusted to my size  
and I'm ready to cut, how do I assemble a bustle skirt??


These are NOT simple one or two sentence answers I know, but any  
guidance would be greatly appreciated right about now. I've used  
period patterns that I bought multi-sized and kinda had to play  
with those until they fit me the right away and could figure out  
basic construction but this seems so daunting having never done it  
before.


Thank you so very much for the kind person who can help, and to all  
others for your patience:)


Regards,
Justine.

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Re: [h-cost] HELP!

[bphall76]

 I would recommend taking your book (or whatever your pattern is in) down to an 
office supply store and simply enlarging the pattern until it is the size you 
need.? This works with quilt patterns, but I am not sure about clothing patterns



-Original Message-
From: Penny Roberts pennyrobert...@yahoo.com
To: Historical Costume h-cost...@indra.com
Sent: Tue, Aug 25, 2009 6:01 am
Subject: Re: [h-cost] HELP!










I use copies of patterns in Excel and use it to increase the size of the pattern
Good luck





From: ladybeanofbun...@aol.com ladybeanofbun...@aol.com
To: h-cost...@indra.com
Sent: Tuesday, August 25, 2009 3:42:17 AM
Subject: [h-cost] HELP!

Hello all, I am in need of some help from an experienced pattern enlarging 
bustle dress maker! I woud like to throw together my first bustle dress, or 
make 
for myself a bustle since my budget is not allowing any new acquirements. At 
one 
point before I got very enthusiastic about doing this, as I have many times, 
but 
got so overwhelmed before even starting due to facing the dred task of 
grading 
that it never came into fruition. I would try ordering a pattern from one of 
the 
many good sellers of period patterns, but I want something very specific, I 
don't have time to wait for one to arrive, and I can't afford to spend on one 
(especially since I spent so much for the three books new which have hundreds 
of 
patterns).

The pieces given scare me in each scaled down pattern, because I know quite 
often, to acheive from the basic pieces the glorious ensemble presented in the 
illustrations, there is usually a good deal of improvising and use of skill the 
handy seamstress must utilize to do so!

Here are my main questions.
1: How do I enlarge the tiny pieces in the book the simplest, quickest, or 
least 
math saavy way?
2: Once I have the pieces enlarged and they are adjusted to my size and I'm 
ready to cut, how do I assemble a bustle skirt??

These are NOT simple one or two sentence answers I know, but any guidance would 
be greatly appreciated right about now. I've used period patterns that I bought 
multi-sized and kinda had to play with those until they fit me the right away 
and could figure out basic construction but this seems so daunting having never 
done it before.

Thank you so very much for the kind person who can help, and to all others for 
your patience:)

Regards,
Justine.

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No


 

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Re: [h-cost] HELP!

[Kim Baird]

Justine--
To make enlarging easier, you can buy pattern paper that is printed with a
grid. Or it may be sold as interfacing, not paper. It is white with a blue
grid.

You need to overlay your small pattern with a quarter-inch grid, if that is
not already done in your source. Then figure out what each quarter inch must
equal on your finished pattern to fit you. If your bust is 42, and the
pattern pieces would give a bust of  4 inches, you have to enlarge at least
10 times. So each quarter inch would have to be 10 quarters, which is 2.5
inches.

It is much easier to enlarge if you number both grids, the small one and the
large one. Just number each row down the side, and each column across the
top. Then you won't get lost when looking between the two.

All this takes a lot of time, and a big table. It would be far easier to
adjust a pattern you already have.

For a late Victorian bustle dress, just keep all the fullness in the back.
You could modify any skirt that has 5 or more panels. I usually make the
center front panel about 1/6 of the total finished size, use one panel on
each side, and 2 or 4 more in the back. Then I keep gathering up the back at
the waist until fits, and add some sort of waistband. You can have the
opening at any of the seams, but center back is easiest.

If you want an overskirt or draped apron of any kind, work with muslin,
folding and pinning until you get the shape you want, then make an overskirt
from your fashin fabric and attach it to the skirt. This is where you need
to get creative with placement of snaps and hooks and eyes. You need a
closure that is invisible.

A simple way to form a bustle is to use boning and ties. I put 2 rows of
twill tape, or something similar, inside the skirt. These are HORIZONTAL
rows, on the back only. Sew along the top and bottom to form a casing.
Boning goes into the casing. Attach a tie at each end of the casing, and
simply tie the ends together, forcing the boning to bow out and shape the
bustle. The ties rest on the back of your legs.

Of course, you wear a petticoat. And you can't use cheap plastic boning--I
had some plastic-covered metal stuff I ordered from somewhere.

The bodice is trickier--I would either enlarge from a book, or buy something
authentic from Laughing Moon or Truly Victorian.

Don't know if this is very helpful--it's hard to explain without
illustrations!

Kim

-Original Message-
From: h-costume-boun...@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-boun...@indra.com] On
Behalf Of ladybeanofbun...@aol.com
Sent: Tuesday, August 25, 2009 3:42 AM
To: h-cost...@indra.com
Subject: [h-cost] HELP!

Hello all, I am in need of some help from an experienced pattern enlarging
bustle dress maker! I woud like to throw together my first bustle dress, or
make for myself a bustle since my budget is not allowing any new
acquirements. At one point before I got very enthusiastic about doing this,
as I have many times, but got so overwhelmed before even starting due to
facing the dred task of grading that it never came into fruition. I would
try ordering a pattern from one of the many good sellers of period patterns,
but I want something very specific, I don't have time to wait for one to
arrive, and I can't afford to spend on one (especially since I spent so much
for the three books new which have hundreds of patterns).

The pieces given scare me in each scaled down pattern, because I know quite
often, to acheive from the basic pieces the glorious ensemble presented in
the illustrations, there is usually a good deal of improvising and use of
skill the handy seamstress must utilize to do so!

Here are my main questions.
1: How do I enlarge the tiny pieces in the book the simplest, quickest, or
least math saavy way?
2: Once I have the pieces enlarged and they are adjusted to my size and I'm
ready to cut, how do I assemble a bustle skirt??

These are NOT simple one or two sentence answers I know, but any guidance
would be greatly appreciated right about now. I've used period patterns that
I bought multi-sized and kinda had to play with those until they fit me the
right away and could figure out basic construction but this seems so
daunting having never done it before.

Thank you so very much for the kind person who can help, and to all others
for your patience:)

Regards,
Justine.

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Re: [h-cost] HELP!

[Andrew T Trembley]

Kim Baird wrote:

Justine--
To make enlarging easier, you can buy pattern paper that is printed with a
grid. Or it may be sold as interfacing, not paper. It is white with a blue
grid.
  


There are two versions of this: Quilter's Grid is usually heat-bond 
non-woven interfacing material with a printed 1 grid. True-Grid is 
no-adhesive non-woven interfacing material with a printed 1 grid. I 
tend to order True-Grid by the bolt, since I have to adjust almost every 
pattern.


andy
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Re: [h-cost] HELP!

[Maggie]

It's also possible to make a transparency of the pattern page, then put it
on an overhead projector and project it on to paper or a sheet on the
wall. Enlarge it to the actual size you need and trace onto the paper/sheet.
I've never actually done this, but if you have access to the tools, it seems
to be a good solution.

MaggiRos




Maggie Secara
~A Compendium of Common Knowledge 1558-1603
Available at your favorite online bookseller
See our gallery at http://www.zazzle.com/popinjaypress


On Tue, Aug 25, 2009 at 10:02 AM, Andrew T Trembley attre...@bovil.comwrote:

 Kim Baird wrote:

 Justine--
 To make enlarging easier, you can buy pattern paper that is printed with a
 grid. Or it may be sold as interfacing, not paper. It is white with a blue
 grid.



 There are two versions of this: Quilter's Grid is usually heat-bond
 non-woven interfacing material with a printed 1 grid. True-Grid is
 no-adhesive non-woven interfacing material with a printed 1 grid. I tend to
 order True-Grid by the bolt, since I have to adjust almost every pattern.

 andy

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Re: [h-cost] HELP!

[Kimiko Small]

I did that once with a transparency. The only issue is that in some overhead 
projectors, there is a distortion along the edges, so what may be accurate in 
the middle, will end up slightly larger at the edges, so you have to keep the 
image you are drawing in the middle of the field. You can also get a book 
projector at the craft store to transfer an image directly from a book, but 
again, check for distortion along the edge.

If I must, I prefer to grid up directly from a book onto gridded pattern paper 
by hand. But then gridded paper are not all that accurate either but decently 
close. Now I've been draping onto the body instead, but that does take some 
good book or good teacher to help learn.

Kimiko
 Kimiko Small
http://www.kimiko1.com
Be the change you want to see in the world. ~ Ghandi

Coming soon: The Tudor Lady's Wardrobe

http://www.margospatterns.com/





From: Maggie maggi...@gmail.com

It's also possible to make a transparency of the pattern page, then put it
on an overhead projector and project it on to paper or a sheet on the


  
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Re: [h-cost] HELP!

[Hanna Zickermann]

Hi,

there´s a method called radial projection or something like that.

Get a rather large copy of the pattern you want 
to make and have the scale on the copy. Glue the 
copy on a large sheet of paper. Choose one point 
in a corner of the pattern piece and draw long 
lines from there through the important points. 
One after another, multiply these distances with 
the factor you need to get the full-size scale 
and mark this new distance on the line. Connect 
all important points and you will get a full 
scale pattern. I find it hard to explain without 
a drawing how to do it, and my English is quite 
tired right now, but I hope you understand what I 
mean. It´s really easy and a lot faster than 
using a grid - which is a method where usually 
can´t count the boxes and end up with a really strange pattern piece...


Hanna

At 10:42 25.08.2009, you wrote:
Hello all, I am in need of some help from an 
experienced pattern enlarging bustle dress 
maker! I woud like to throw together my first 
bustle dress, or make for myself a bustle since 
my budget is not allowing any new acquirements. 
At one point before I got very enthusiastic 
about doing this, as I have many times, but got 
so overwhelmed before even starting due to 
facing the dred task of grading that it never 
came into fruition. I would try ordering a 
pattern from one of the many good sellers of 
period patterns, but I want something very 
specific, I don't have time to wait for one to 
arrive, and I can't afford to spend on one 
(especially since I spent so much for the three 
books new which have hundreds of patterns).


The pieces given scare me in each scaled down 
pattern, because I know quite often, to acheive 
from the basic pieces the glorious ensemble 
presented in the illustrations, there is usually 
a good deal of improvising and use of skill the 
handy seamstress must utilize to do so!


Here are my main questions.
1: How do I enlarge the tiny pieces in the book 
the simplest, quickest, or least math saavy way?
2: Once I have the pieces enlarged and they are 
adjusted to my size and I'm ready to cut, how do I assemble a bustle skirt??


These are NOT simple one or two sentence answers 
I know, but any guidance would be greatly 
appreciated right about now. I've used period 
patterns that I bought multi-sized and kinda had 
to play with those until they fit me the right 
away and could figure out basic construction but 
this seems so daunting having never done it before.


Thank you so very much for the kind person who 
can help, and to all others for your patience:)


Regards,
Justine.

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Re: [h-cost] HELP!

[ladybeanofbunny1]

Thank you everyone so much for your suggestions. The recommendation on 
using a projector has always intrigued me but the unfortunate thing is 
that now days people who would or did once use them are less likely to, 
since the upgraded technology has led many to discard the old projector 
and adopt newer systems such as power point slides, etc.
Where can the gridded pattern pattern be found? I do believe I've seen 
the gridded quilters interfacing at the craft store and will give them 
a call today to see if they carry any. I once scaled up a pattern for a 
skirt from Jane Arnold's book and it went amazingly well, size 
adjustments weren't even necessary in the end. What made it easier was 
the fact that her patterns are laid out over the 1/4 grids, whereas the 
pattern parts in the Frances Grimble books are just on plain paper. I 
guess it's time to tear the house apart to find my olf writing tablet 
that has the 1/4 graph paper on the back so I can trace them first onto 
there, and maybe use tissue paper to redraw them over my 1 grid 
quilting board?


I'll see how far I get first just trying to get workable patterns from 
the book before I continue worrying about how to piece the dress 
together. The one thing I am curious about is using the tapes on the 
skirt without boning as described in the original instructions for how 
the dress is made. What were they for, are they meant to be moveable 
like the pleating tape they sell for window shades that has little 
rings where cord is run through to open and close, but in this case so 
one can adjust the skirt freely and as desired?


I've studied period pieces, bustle styles but only have one early 
original in my collection do far to study from in terms of construction 
inside and out, but it was a very basic piece that I think was remade 
from a hoop skirt, so it lacks all the pleats and folds of the 
elaborate later styles, just cartridge pleating along the back 
waistband. Unless there was an overskirt that was lost.


Thanks again and talk soon.

-Justine.

-Justine.


-Original Message-
From: Kim Baird kba...@cableone.net
To: 'Historical Costume' h-cost...@indra.com
Sent: Tue, Aug 25, 2009 10:42 am
Subject: Re: [h-cost] HELP!

Justine--
To make enlarging easier, you can buy pattern paper that is printed 
with a
grid. Or it may be sold as interfacing, not paper. It is white with a 
blue

grid.

You need to overlay your small pattern with a quarter-inch grid, if 
that is
not already done in your source. Then figure out what each quarter inch 
must

equal on your finished pattern to fit you. If your bust is 42, and the
pattern pieces would give a bust of  4 inches, you have to enlarge at 
least
10 times. So each quarter inch would have to be 10 quarters, which is 
2.5

inches.

It is much easier to enlarge if you number both grids, the small one 
and the
large one. Just number each row down the side, and each column across 
the

top. Then you won't get lost when looking between the two.

All this takes a lot of time, and a big table. It would be far easier to
adjust a pattern you already have.

For a late Victorian bustle dress, just keep all the fullness in the 
back.

You could modify any skirt that has 5 or more panels. I usually make the
center front panel about 1/6 of the total finished size, use one panel 
on
each side, and 2 or 4 more in the back. Then I keep gathering up the 
back at

the waist until fits, and add some sort of waistband. You can have the
opening at any of the seams, but center back is easiest.

If you want an overskirt or draped apron of any kind, work with muslin,
folding and pinning until you get the shape you want, then make an 
overskirt
from your fashin fabric and attach it to the skirt. This is where you 
need

to get creative with placement of snaps and hooks and eyes. You need a
closure that is invisible.

A simple way to form a bustle is to use boning and ties. I put 2 rows of
twill tape, or something similar, inside the skirt. These are HORIZONTAL
rows, on the back only. Sew along the top and bottom to form a casing.
Boning goes into the casing. Attach a tie at each end of the casing, and
simply tie the ends together, forcing the boning to bow out and shape 
the

bustle. The ties rest on the back of your legs.

Of course, you wear a petticoat. And you can't use cheap plastic 
boning--I

had some plastic-covered metal stuff I ordered from somewhere.

The bodice is trickier--I would either enlarge from a book, or buy 
something

authentic from Laughing Moon or Truly Victorian.

Don't know if this is very helpful--it's hard to explain without
illustrations!

Kim

-Original Message-
From: h-costume-boun...@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-boun...@indra.com] 
On

Behalf Of ladybeanofbun...@aol.com
Sent: Tuesday, August 25, 2009 3:42 AM
To: h-cost...@indra.com
Subject: [h-cost] HELP!

Hello all, I am in need of some help from an experienced pattern 
enlarging
bustle dress maker! I woud like to throw together my

Re: [h-cost] HELP!

[Rickard, Patty]

Even if there's not projector distortion, there's the problem (since various 
parts of the body do not increase in size at the same rate between sizes) that 
an enlargement to fit the bust, for example, may make the armscye, for example, 
too large, too small,  or in the wrong place. It's a place to start, though.
Patty


From: h-costume-boun...@indra.com [h-costume-boun...@indra.com] On Behalf Of 
Kimiko Small [sstormwa...@yahoo.com]
Sent: Tuesday, August 25, 2009 4:28 PM
To: Historical Costume
Subject: Re: [h-cost] HELP!

I did that once with a transparency. The only issue is that in some overhead 
projectors, there is a distortion along the edges, so what may be accurate in 
the middle, will end up slightly larger at the edges, so you have to keep the 
image you are drawing in the middle of the field. You can also get a book 
projector at the craft store to transfer an image directly from a book, but 
again, check for distortion along the edge.

If I must, I prefer to grid up directly from a book onto gridded pattern paper 
by hand. But then gridded paper are not all that accurate either but decently 
close. Now I've been draping onto the body instead, but that does take some 
good book or good teacher to help learn.

Kimiko
 Kimiko Small
http://www.kimiko1.com
Be the change you want to see in the world. ~ Ghandi

Coming soon: The Tudor Lady's Wardrobe

http://www.margospatterns.com/





From: Maggie maggi...@gmail.com

It's also possible to make a transparency of the pattern page, then put it
on an overhead projector and project it on to paper or a sheet on the



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[h-cost] Help

[Cat Devereaux]

Grid square or image blow up only gets you so far.   The big catch is 
your body is not not like the body in the pattern... and it's not just a 
matter of grading to size up.


If you're working off a grid pattern made for modern bodies.. grids will 
work... if you know the original measurements that the pattern was made 
for before it was reduced... say the quarter inch become 1.   You 
divide your measurements into theirs.  ie if you waist is 1.5 times 
bigger than the pattern, but you're .75 of their length, and your bust 
is the same...   You have to shorten the pattern by a quarter while 
expanding the waist 50%.  (This worked well for me blowing up 
Hunnisseete patterns.)  The bust will be closer... but you are still 
going to need to mock it up and adjust the curves a bit.


The problem you get into when doing this from a period pattern, the body 
shape is a LOT different due to corset, standard posture, etc.   You are 
going to have to do a LOT more adjusting.   The skirts will be easier 
than a bodice... since the skirts are mostly just long lines that can be 
adjusted by just pivoting.   Your bodice pieces aren't nearly as 
forgiving.  You can enlarge the square grid by math and then you can do 
standard pattern adjustment of clip and pivot, BUT...  unless you know  
the measurements the pattern was made for... you're kinda stuck there...


Oh, and don't forget on measurements... you're talking about over the 
underpinings to get your corseted waist and bust


Personally... for the bodice area... I think a better bet is to drape 
the bodice over the underpinnings on the person who the dress is for.  
Look at the book for the shape of the draped pieces... ie where to put 
the seams, side, bust aligned, collar, etc.


Another advantage of this, in the sleeve area, you make the decision if 
you want to really make the sleeves as restrictive as they were for that 
period, or add more modern movement.  (You're not as accurate, but if 
you're not into wearing historical garments as much, you may choose 
movement over accuracy.)


-Cat-
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Re: [h-cost] HELP!

[Dianne]

Thank you everyone so much for your suggestions. The recommendation on
using a projector has always intrigued me but the unfortunate thing is
that now days people who would or did once use them are less likely to,
since the upgraded technology has led many to discard the old projector
and adopt newer systems such as power point slides, etc.

You can, however, still find small projectors at craft stores.

I've purchased the gridded pattern interfacing at JoAnn's, and in fact, as 
soon as DH finds a job, I'm going to have to make a serious supply run. Need 
interfacing, embroidery stabilizer, just general basics. When I don't have 
the gridded interfacing on hand, a roll of white paper from an office supply 
store and a quilter's ruler work too.


Dianne

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Re: [h-cost] HELP!

[Becky Rautine]

I have a projector that doesn't require the transparencies. It can use a book 
or a photo, turn it on and it's projected onto the wall or onto a fabric 
hanging up. I used it for making large logo wall murals, a celtic knot design 
on a bed sheet for a quilt, taking small photos and creating charcoal 
portraits. It cost about $199 a few years back but well worth it then and now. 
I'd have to dig it out of my closet to tell you the brand. I think Art-o-graph, 
but I'll check. My sister used it this week for a quilt design and I don't know 
where she put it. BUT I promise I'll let you know in the morning when I clean 
up the crafts room.

Sincerely,
Rebecca Rautine



 From: goo...@comcast.net
 To: h-cost...@indra.com
 Date: Tue, 25 Aug 2009 19:36:41 -0400
 Subject: Re: [h-cost] HELP!
 
 Thank you everyone so much for your suggestions. The recommendation on
 using a projector has always intrigued me but the unfortunate thing is
 that now days people who would or did once use them are less likely to,
 since the upgraded technology has led many to discard the old projector
 and adopt newer systems such as power point slides, etc.
 
 You can, however, still find small projectors at craft stores.
 
 I've purchased the gridded pattern interfacing at JoAnn's, and in fact, as 
 soon as DH finds a job, I'm going to have to make a serious supply run. Need 
 interfacing, embroidery stabilizer, just general basics. When I don't have 
 the gridded interfacing on hand, a roll of white paper from an office supply 
 store and a quilter's ruler work too.
 
 Dianne
 
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Re: [h-cost] HELP!

[Maggie]

No matter how you blow up the one period pattern you have, you're still only
getting the pattern that was made for that one person in their particular
proportions. No matter what you do, you're going to have to do a mock-up,
and pinch and tweak and fiddle till you have a pattern for you.

But I think you knew that :-)

 MaggiRos


Maggie Secara
~A Compendium of Common Knowledge 1558-1603
Available at your favorite online bookseller
See our gallery at http://www.zazzle.com/popinjaypress


On Tue, Aug 25, 2009 at 2:40 PM, Rickard, Patty ricka...@muc.edu wrote:

 Even if there's not projector distortion, there's the problem (since
 various parts of the body do not increase in size at the same rate between
 sizes) that an enlargement to fit the bust, for example, may make the
 armscye, for example, too large, too small,  or in the wrong place. It's a
 place to start, though.
 Patty

 
 From: h-costume-boun...@indra.com [h-costume-boun...@indra.com] On Behalf
 Of Kimiko Small [sstormwa...@yahoo.com]
 Sent: Tuesday, August 25, 2009 4:28 PM
 To: Historical Costume
 Subject: Re: [h-cost] HELP!

 I did that once with a transparency. The only issue is that in some
 overhead projectors, there is a distortion along the edges, so what may be
 accurate in the middle, will end up slightly larger at the edges, so you
 have to keep the image you are drawing in the middle of the field. You can
 also get a book projector at the craft store to transfer an image directly
 from a book, but again, check for distortion along the edge.

 If I must, I prefer to grid up directly from a book onto gridded pattern
 paper by hand. But then gridded paper are not all that accurate either but
 decently close. Now I've been draping onto the body instead, but that does
 take some good book or good teacher to help learn.

 Kimiko
  Kimiko Small
 http://www.kimiko1.com
 Be the change you want to see in the world. ~ Ghandi

 Coming soon: The Tudor Lady's Wardrobe

 http://www.margospatterns.com/




 
 From: Maggie maggi...@gmail.com

 It's also possible to make a transparency of the pattern page, then put it
 on an overhead projector and project it on to paper or a sheet on the



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Re: [h-cost] Help! Tear Away Stabilizer

[Penny Ladnier]

Many, many thanks to everyone who gave advice about working with organza.  I 
tried the painter's tape method.  My son is a painter and all we had in the 
house was expensive blue tape...it is supposed to stick better.  It worked 
too well.  It had leftover bits of tape in the seam that I had to pull out 
with tweezers.  Maybe the cheap-o tape would work better.


Next I used the tissue paper that you put in gift bags.  This worked like a 
charm.  At Joann's I bought tissue paper the same color as the dress.  So if 
I left paper in the seam, it didn't show.  I only had this happen once when 
I did a seam finish.


The dress was beautiful!  Thanks again!
Penny Ladnier
Owner, The Costume Gallery Websites
www.costumegallery.com
11 websites of fashion, textiles, costume history 


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Re: [h-cost] Help! Tear Away Stabilizer

[Maggie]

I've always used Stich 'n' Tear. It's not iron-on. You cut a strip and lay
it in the seam and sew through it, then tear away from both sides of the
seam. Works lilke a charm. It's especially good when lining velvet with
satin, which do not like to play nicely together otherwise. And it's heavy
enough to stay in place and not tear before you're ready, like during
pinning.

Glad the tissue worked for you, Penny. I just thought I'd add this
observation to the list

MaggiRos

Maggie Secara
~A Compendium of Common Knowledge 1558-1603
ISBN 978-0-9818401-0-9
Available at http://elizabethan.org/compendium/paperback.html
See our gallery at http://www.zazzle.com/popinjaypress


On Fri, May 15, 2009 at 1:28 AM, Penny Ladnier pe...@costumegallery.comwrote:

 Many, many thanks to everyone who gave advice about working with organza.
  I tried the painter's tape method.  My son is a painter and all we had in
 the house was expensive blue tape...it is supposed to stick better.  It
 worked too well.  It had leftover bits of tape in the seam that I had to
 pull out with tweezers.  Maybe the cheap-o tape would work better.

 Next I used the tissue paper that you put in gift bags.  This worked like a
 charm.  At Joann's I bought tissue paper the same color as the dress.  So if
 I left paper in the seam, it didn't show.  I only had this happen once when
 I did a seam finish.

 The dress was beautiful!  Thanks again!
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Re: [h-cost] Help! Tear Away Stabilizer

[Penny Ladnier]

MaggiRos,

I think this is what was talked about a few years ago that I was looking for 
as an answer.  I am saving your message so I will have it in the future.


Penny Ladnier
Owner, The Costume Gallery Websites
www.costumegallery.com
11 websites of fashion, textiles, costume history 


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Re: [h-cost] Help! Tear Away Stabilizer

[Tania Gruning]

Silk paper, baste your fabric to silk paper or the paper florist use to put 
around flowers, that should prevent the creep and should be easy to get off 
again

Tania

--- On Sat, 5/9/09, Land of Oz lando...@netins.net wrote:

 From: Land of Oz lando...@netins.net
 Subject: Re: [h-cost] Help! Tear Away Stabilizer
 To: 'Historical Costume' h-cost...@indra.com
 Date: Saturday, May 9, 2009, 12:06 AM
 
 BTW, I can't use the iron-on stabilizer because the
 organza, because the organza has a
 plastic type glitter on it.  The glitter melt when an
 iron touches it.
   ---
 
 I hope someone can prove me wrong, but I don't think there
 is a tear-away stabilizer that
 *isn't* iron on.
 
 Can you use wide painter's tape (the blue easy release
 stuff) and peel it off after?
 
 I'd call your local store and tell them what you said above
 and see what they recommend.
 
 Good Luck
 Denise
 
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Re: [h-cost] Help! Tear Away Stabilizer

[Dianne]

I am working on my daughter's prom dress.  There is an outer layer of 
organza that is very slippery.  Is there a trick to keep it from sliding all 
over the sewing machine when stitching?  On the list, I recall someone 
mentioning a few years ago, a tear away stabilizer. Can someone point me to 
a webpage that tells how to use this.  All I have found are embroidery 
webpages.  I have to finish the dress tonight.  So I have to find a 
stabilizer at Hancock Fabrics, Joann's, or Michael's.


BTW, I can't use the iron-on stabilizer because the organza, because the 
organza has a plastic type glitter on it.  The glitter melt when an iron 
touches it.


In the notions section of JoAnn's or Hancock Fabrics, look in the embroidery 
stabilizer section. I buy non-iron-on tear-away stabilizer there all the 
time. It pins into place.


At JAF, the brand is Sulky.

Dianne

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Re: [h-cost] Help! Tear Away Stabilizer

[Cin]

I am working on my daughter's prom dress.  There is an outer layer of organza 
that is very slippery.  Is there a trick to keep it from sliding all over the 
sewing machine when stitching?  On the list, I recall someone mentioning a few 
years ago, a tear away stabilizer. Can someone point me to a webpage that 
tells how to use this.  All I have found are embroidery webpages.

Hey Penny,
Lovely meeting you at Costume Con!

Tear-away stabilizer is for supporting a fabric during machine
embroidery  applique.  I dont think it's appropriate in your sitch.
(To use stabilizer, place it under the area to be embroidered; sew out
the design thru fabric + 1-2 layers of stabilizer; tear away or cut,
pick, tweeze away delicately so as no to distort the finished work;
steam  block the result.)

You may also be thinking of those temp or perm fabric glues (stitch
witch, etc). I'm not a fan as the residue can be stiff, tacky or
staining.

For pegging 2 organza layers together in prep for a seam, I use
Z-basting... the same technique as used to anchor velvets before
sewing.  Imagine tailor's pad stitching only longer.  The across
stitches go either side of the seamline; the diagonals maybe 1 apart.

An attempt at a picture: |/---|/|/---|/|/---|/

This is also commonly used to baste 3 layers of a quilt together.

 I have to finish the dress tonight.  So I have to find a stabilizer at 
 Hancock Fabrics, Joann's, or Michael's.

Nothing like advice that's too late!

BTW, I can't use the iron-on stabilizer because the organza, because the 
organza has a plastic type glitter on it.  The glitter melt when an iron 
touches it.

There's also Wash-Away stabilizer if your fabric is washable.  Again,
it's for embroidery  appplique.  You dont want iron-on... it will
stick to your plastic stuff in a permanent  gooey way. Yuk.
--cin
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[h-cost] Help! Tear Away Stabilizer

[Penny Ladnier]

I am working on my daughter's prom dress.  There is an outer layer of organza 
that is very slippery.  Is there a trick to keep it from sliding all over the 
sewing machine when stitching?  On the list, I recall someone mentioning a few 
years ago, a tear away stabilizer. Can someone point me to a webpage that tells 
how to use this.  All I have found are embroidery webpages.  I have to finish 
the dress tonight.  So I have to find a stabilizer at Hancock Fabrics, Joann's, 
or Michael's. 

BTW, I can't use the iron-on stabilizer because the organza, because the 
organza has a plastic type glitter on it.  The glitter melt when an iron 
touches it.
  
Penny Ladnier
Owner, The Costume Gallery Websites
www.costumegallery.com
11 websites of fashion, textiles, costume history
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Re: [h-cost] Help! Tear Away Stabilizer

[Land of Oz]

BTW, I can't use the iron-on stabilizer because the organza, because the 
organza has a
plastic type glitter on it.  The glitter melt when an iron touches it.
  ---

I hope someone can prove me wrong, but I don't think there is a tear-away 
stabilizer that
*isn't* iron on.

Can you use wide painter's tape (the blue easy release stuff) and peel it off 
after?

I'd call your local store and tell them what you said above and see what they 
recommend.

Good Luck
Denise

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Re: [h-cost] Help! Tear Away Stabilizer

[cw15147-hcost00]

I don't think you're thinking of stabilizer used for machine embroidery. I 
believe that type of stabilizer is primarily NOT iron on, though it does come 
in a sticky back style. I haven't come across any iron-on type, but then I 
haven't looked for any either.

I'm not sure what Penny is having trouble with, but perhaps she can use the 
stabilizer to sandwich the slippy fabric, so that the feed dogs and foot are 
against the stabilizer and not the fabric. I've used plain old tissue paper 
like this, but not with the specific fabric Penny is working with.



Claudine



- Original Message 
From: Land of Oz lando...@netins.net
To: Historical Costume h-cost...@indra.com
Sent: Friday, May 8, 2009 3:06:14 PM
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Help! Tear Away Stabilizer

I hope someone can prove me wrong, but I don't think there is a tear-away 
stabilizer that
*isn't* iron on.
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Re: [h-cost] Help! Tear Away Stabilizer

[Beth Chamberlain]

In the days before stabilizers I used tracing paper or tissue paper cut into 
narrow strips. Depending on how nasty the fabric is you can just put one 
under the seam (against the feed dogs) or one under and one on top. You can 
do exactly the same thing with the stabilizer but the paper will tear off 
more easily.


Beth Chamberlain

A library is not a luxury but one of the necessities of life Henry Ward 
Beecher

http://mysite.verizon.net/bachamberlain

- Original Message - 
From: Penny Ladnier pe...@costumegallery.com

To: h-costume h-cost...@indra.com
Sent: Friday, May 08, 2009 4:32 PM
Subject: [h-cost] Help! Tear Away Stabilizer


I am working on my daughter's prom dress.  There is an outer layer of 
organza that is very slippery.  Is there a trick to keep it from sliding 
all over the sewing machine when stitching?  On the list, I recall someone 
mentioning a few years ago, a tear away stabilizer. Can someone point me to 
a webpage that tells how to use this.  All I have found are embroidery 
webpages.  I have to finish the dress tonight.  So I have to find a 
stabilizer at Hancock Fabrics, Joann's, or Michael's.


BTW, I can't use the iron-on stabilizer because the organza, because the 
organza has a plastic type glitter on it.  The glitter melt when an iron 
touches it.


Penny Ladnier
Owner, The Costume Gallery Websites
www.costumegallery.com
11 websites of fashion, textiles, costume history
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Re: [h-cost] Help! Tear Away Stabilizer

[Kimiko Small]

Hi Penny,

You can use anything from newspaper (which may get black ink so I usually don't 
use it anymore), white printer paper or tissue paper to act as a stabilizer 
while sewing organza. Just cut up strips a few inches wide, and put it on top 
of the fabric while you sew, and it will tear away afterwards. You can also 
sandwich the fabric between papers if it helps, so test both ways and see what 
works for you.

There is also embroidery stabilizers, but most of those I've worked with 
require ironing to help with the stabilization. Ah, except the one that is 
water soluble. But that has its own issues, and I think using paper will work 
better for straight seams.

hth,

Kimiko


--- On Fri, 5/8/09, Penny Ladnier pe...@costumegallery.com wrote:
 I am working on my daughter's prom
 dress.  There is an outer layer of organza that is very
 slippery.  Is there a trick to keep it from sliding all
 over the sewing machine when stitching?  On the list, I
 recall someone mentioning a few years ago, a tear away
 stabilizer. Can someone point me to a webpage that tells how
 to use this.  All I have found are embroidery
 webpages.  I have to finish the dress tonight.  So
 I have to find a stabilizer at Hancock Fabrics, Joann's, or
 Michael's. 



  
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Re: [h-cost] Help! Tear Away Stabilizer

[stilskin]

Hmm, this is why all clothing should be made of leather or denim...no need for 
stabilizers!

Still, if you are committed, a few things I have had luck with are:

Teflon foot (helps reduce resistance between foot-side and feed-side);

Stiff but see-through tissue paper on top and/or underneath; and

(personal favourite) Masking tape, the really textured type that will pull away 
easily).

Still, a leather and denim prom dress? Hmm, could be a match for my old Harley 
Davidson Star Trek uniform,

-C.



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Re: [h-cost] Help! Tear Away Stabilizer

[LuAnn Mason]

Scribble pad.  It's like unprinted newsprint paper.  It's cheap, readily 
available, and doesn't leave a lot of hairs behind when you tear it off.  I 
like it because you can trace your design on it and it leaves no trace behind.

HTH--

LuAnn in Washington

 Date: Sat, 9 May 2009 10:22:07 +1000
 From: stils...@netspace.net.au
 To: h-cost...@indra.com
 Subject: Re: [h-cost] Help! Tear Away Stabilizer
 
 Hmm, this is why all clothing should be made of leather or denim...no need 
 for 
 stabilizers!
 
 Still, if you are committed, a few things I have had luck with are:
 
 Teflon foot (helps reduce resistance between foot-side and feed-side);
 
 Stiff but see-through tissue paper on top and/or underneath; and
 
 (personal favourite) Masking tape, the really textured type that will pull 
 away 
 easily).
 
 Still, a leather and denim prom dress? Hmm, could be a match for my old 
 Harley 
 Davidson Star Trek uniform,
 
 -C.
 
 
 
 This email was sent from Netspace Webmail: http://www.netspace.net.au
 
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Re: [h-cost] help needed to find a notion

[R Lloyd Mitchell]

I believe that Greenberg and Hammer still carry this item.
Kathleen
-Original Message-
From: stils...@netspace.net.au
Sent 1/24/2009 2:01:22 AM
To: Historical Costume h-cost...@indra.com
Subject: Re: [h-cost] help needed to find a notion tux. The notions list one 
cummerbund assembly (two sliders and one
 buckle). Can anyone tell me what those might be, and where I could find
They are parts of the back belt assembly. Why not grab an old waistcoat from an
op shop and cannibalise it?
-C.

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[h-cost] help needed to find a notion

[Rebecca Schmitt]

I am making Vogue 7488, view C, which is a men's formal vest to wear with a
tux. The notions list one cummerbund assembly (two sliders and one
buckle). Can anyone tell me what those might be, and where I could find
them?
 

Rebecca Schmitt
aka Agness Cabot, Guilde of St. Lawrence, Bristol Renn Faire
*
 
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Re: [h-cost] help needed to find a notion

[AlbertCat]

 
In a message dated 1/23/2009 3:46:01 P.M. Eastern Standard Time,  
lotsofteap...@charter.net writes:

I am  making Vogue 7488, view C, which is a men's formal vest to wear with a
tux.  The notions list one cummerbund assembly (two sliders and one
buckle).  Can anyone tell me what those might be, and where I could  find
them?



***
 
View C...not B?
 
View C has a waistcoat with a full back. I imagine you'll only need  one 
buckle for the back of the waistcoat, which usually has 2  narrow straps of the 
back lining fabric attached at each side seam at  the waist level and running 
across the back waist, closing with a buckle of  some kind so it is adjustable. 
It's to synch in the waist tight. There are  typical small buckles with 
tonguesfor which you must put eyelets on the  opposite strap, or a slider 
type 
buckle that does not require eyelets. These are  usually on the notion wall 
with the buttons. If you cannot find a buckle, two  small D (or O) rings will 
work (Both on one strapthe opposite  strap goes thru both rings and then 
back 
thru one) or you can make  2 or 3  inch wide straps a couple of inches 
shorter than the back waist  measurement of the lining, with 2 or 3 eyelets or 
small 
button  holes down each end and lace them together with some sort  of tie ( 
ribbon, leather thong, short shoe lace) in CB back to synch  in the waist.
 
View B looks like it requires a buckle for the neck and one or two for the  
waist...since it has no full back.
**A Good Credit Score is 700 or Above. See yours in just 2 easy 
steps! (http://pr.atwola.com/prom
oclk/10075x1215855013x1201028747/aol?redir=http://www.freecreditreport.com/pm/default.aspx?sc=668072%26hmpgID=62%26bcd=De
cemailfooterNO62)
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Re: [h-cost] help needed to find a notion

[Rebecca Schmitt]

That's it! Thankyouthankyouthankyou. I couldn't figure out how to search to
find what I wanted!


Rebecca Schmitt
aka Agness Cabot, Guilde of St. Lawrence, Bristol Renn Faire
*
 

 -Original Message-
 From: h-costume-boun...@indra.com 
 [mailto:h-costume-boun...@indra.com] On Behalf Of Shane Sheridan
 Sent: Friday, January 23, 2009 2:59 PM
 To: h-cost...@indra.com
 Subject: Re: [h-cost] help needed to find a notion
 
 You would be looking for these:
 
 http://www.bblackandsons.com/store/media/product-images/tuxedo
 /TX-06.jpg
 
 basically a simple buckle and a slider to allow you to adjust 
 the back of the cummerbund to fit.
 
 Hope that helps!
 
 Sheridan P
 
 From: Rebecca Schmitt lotsofteap...@charter.net
 Reply-To: Historical Costume h-cost...@indra.com
 To: 'Historical Costume' h-cost...@indra.com
 Subject: [h-cost] help needed to find a notion
 Date: Fri, 23 Jan 2009 14:44:52 -0600
 
 I am making Vogue 7488, view C, which is a men's formal vest to wear 
 with a tux. The notions list one cummerbund assembly (two 
 sliders and 
 one buckle). Can anyone tell me what those might be, and 
 where I could 
 find them?
 
 
 Rebecca Schmitt
 aka Agness Cabot, Guilde of St. Lawrence, Bristol Renn Faire
 *
 
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Re: [h-cost] help needed to find a notion

[stilskin]

 tux. The notions list one cummerbund assembly (two sliders and one
 buckle). Can anyone tell me what those might be, and where I could find

They are parts of the back belt assembly. Why not grab an old waistcoat from an 
op shop and cannibalise it?

-C.



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Re: [h-cost] HELP: What event is this worn to?

[Audrey Bergeron-Morin]

 Dans la Tribune des Dames le jour des Drags

 What event was these hats worn?  If I put in Google jour des Drags images 
 come up like equestrian events.  Was/Is there an equestrian event called 
 Tribune/ Day of the Drags?  I am just guessing...so the French speaking list 
 members, go on...fall off your chair laughing at me.


La Tribune des Dames could be a newspaper, but most likely... it
also means a place to sit/stand, reserved for women. For example in
the House of Commons, there was a place reserved for women who wanted
to attend. I'm sure the same term could also be used to describe a
stand space reserved for women who want to view a race, for example.

As for the Jour des Drags... Drag is not a French word, so this
makes matters slightly more complicated. However, it seems like all I
can find agrees with you: horse races.

Wikipedia: http://fr.wikipedia.org/wiki/Prix_des_Drags

Take a look here...
http://www.lartigue.org/fr2/jhlartigue/chronologie/jhlp-chronoimg40.html

So, in the women's reserved stand, on the day of the Prix des Drags
horse-race (in Auteuil)
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Re: [h-cost] HELP: What event is this worn to?

[Chiara Francesca]

WOW!

Look at those gloves!

Ok, different question completely from Penny's, what is the first lady on the 
right wearing? Is that an over coat with netting in the center over her dress?

♫
Chiara Francesca


 -Original Message-
 From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
 On Behalf Of Audrey Bergeron-Morin
 Sent: Friday, October 17, 2008 12:02 PM
 To: Historical Costume
 Subject: Re: [h-cost] HELP: What event is this worn to?
 
  Dans la Tribune des Dames le jour des Drags
 
  What event was these hats worn?  If I put in Google jour des Drags
 images come up like equestrian events.  Was/Is there an equestrian
 event called Tribune/ Day of the Drags?  I am just guessing...so the
 French speaking list members, go on...fall off your chair laughing at
 me.
 
 
 La Tribune des Dames could be a newspaper, but most likely... it
 also means a place to sit/stand, reserved for women. For example in
 the House of Commons, there was a place reserved for women who wanted
 to attend. I'm sure the same term could also be used to describe a
 stand space reserved for women who want to view a race, for example.
 
 As for the Jour des Drags... Drag is not a French word, so this
 makes matters slightly more complicated. However, it seems like all I
 can find agrees with you: horse races.
 
 Wikipedia: http://fr.wikipedia.org/wiki/Prix_des_Drags
 
 Take a look here...
 http://www.lartigue.org/fr2/jhlartigue/chronologie/jhlp-
 chronoimg40.html
 
 So, in the women's reserved stand, on the day of the Prix des Drags
 horse-race (in Auteuil)
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Re: [h-cost] HELP: What event is this worn to?

[Rickard, Patty]

Like the ladies at Ascot.


From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Audrey Bergeron-Morin 
[EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: Friday, October 17, 2008 3:02 PM
To: Historical Costume
Subject: Re: [h-cost] HELP: What event is this worn to?

 Dans la Tribune des Dames le jour des Drags

 What event was these hats worn?  If I put in Google jour des Drags images 
 come up like equestrian events.  Was/Is there an equestrian event called 
 Tribune/ Day of the Drags?  I am just guessing...so the French speaking list 
 members, go on...fall off your chair laughing at me.


La Tribune des Dames could be a newspaper, but most likely... it
also means a place to sit/stand, reserved for women. For example in
the House of Commons, there was a place reserved for women who wanted
to attend. I'm sure the same term could also be used to describe a
stand space reserved for women who want to view a race, for example.

As for the Jour des Drags... Drag is not a French word, so this
makes matters slightly more complicated. However, it seems like all I
can find agrees with you: horse races.

Wikipedia: http://fr.wikipedia.org/wiki/Prix_des_Drags

Take a look here...
http://www.lartigue.org/fr2/jhlartigue/chronologie/jhlp-chronoimg40.html

So, in the women's reserved stand, on the day of the Prix des Drags
horse-race (in Auteuil)
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[h-cost] HELP: What event is this worn to?

[Penny Ladnier]

I have an illustration of three beautiful hats from a 1922 French fashion 
magazine and the caption is:

Dans la Tribune des Dames le jour des Drags

What event was these hats worn?  If I put in Google jour des Drags images 
come up like equestrian events.  Was/Is there an equestrian event called 
Tribune/ Day of the Drags?  I am just guessing...so the French speaking list 
members, go on...fall off your chair laughing at me.

This magazine is really good at providing French and English translations for 
the fashion image descriptions but only provides French text for the overall 
topic.  

I wish I hadn't quit French class in high school.  Our local community colleges 
do not offer French classes.   I have gotten very fast typing in French.  But I 
only know what the meaning of some French fashion terms that are common in 
English.   One day, I am going to be able to translate what I have been typing! 
  

Penny Ladnier,
Owner, The Costume Gallery Websites
www.costumegallery.com
10 websites of costume, fashion and textile history.
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Re: [h-cost] Help with OT Costume

[otsisto]

Harry Mudd wasn't the one in the Trouble with Tribbles, that was Cyrano
Jones.
Also known as Harcourt Fenton Mudd, Harry Mudd was in the one with the women
that took the illegal Venus drug to make them beautiful, Mudd's Women
and with the women robots I, Mudd.

-Original Message-

Ooh!  Ooh!  I vote Harry Mudd!
Don't forget to have a pocketful of Tribbles!


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Re: [h-cost] Help with OT Costume--and even more OT

[AnnBWass]

 
In a message dated 9/12/2008 2:05:40 AM Eastern Daylight Time,  
[EMAIL PROTECTED] writes:

the one  with the women
that took the illegal Venus drug to make them beautiful,  Mudd's Women
and with the women robots I,  Mudd.



And one of the few bits I remember from my teen years reading movie  
magazines--the women were played by identical twins, so they could have two 
real  
women in the picture at once.
 
Ann Wass



**Pt...Have you heard the news? There's a new fashion blog, 
plus the latest fall trends and hair styles at StyleList.com.  
(http://www.stylelist.com/trends?ncid=aolsty000514)
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Re: [h-cost] Help with OT Costume

[Pierre Sandy Pettinger]

Cyrano Jones works, too!

Sandy

At 01:00 AM 9/12/2008, you wrote:

Harry Mudd wasn't the one in the Trouble with Tribbles, that was Cyrano
Jones.
Also known as Harcourt Fenton Mudd, Harry Mudd was in the one with the women
that took the illegal Venus drug to make them beautiful, Mudd's Women
and with the women robots I, Mudd.

-Original Message-

Ooh!  Ooh!  I vote Harry Mudd!
Don't forget to have a pocketful of Tribbles!


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