Thank you Kim! So glad to hear it. :)
Best Wishes,
Elena
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are in the process of moving it to a different platform. (I donât know
> which one.)
>
> Adele
>
> > On Feb 2, 2022, at 3:45 PM, Elena Kanagy-Loux
> wrote:
> >
> > Dear Arachnids,
> >
> > I was trying to access the Freehand Lace Group website this evenin
ouble-check it
that would be much appreciated.
Best Wishes,
Elena
--
Elena Kanagy-Loux
She/Her
Bloomsbury Encyclopedia of World Textiles
Co-Editor Volume 3, Non-Wovens
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Dear Jean,
I saw Arlene's research on the Spiro mound lace in Oklahoma as well and was
absolutely fascinated! Devon Thein informed me that an IOLI member
replicated the same piece on a bobbin lace pillow and published it in a
Bulletin article back in 2013 or so (pardon, I don't have her name handy
Dear Lorri,
I realized that I also meant to include a link to the digitized version of
"American Lace and Lacemakers," which was published in 1924. If I recall it
has some useful information about the early colonial period:
https://catalog.hathitrust.org/Record/001983065
Best Wishes,
Elena
-
To
Dear Lorri,
I am sure that you will be sent many excellent resources, but this article
on Lace in America by Marian Powys is a good place to start:
https://www2.cs.arizona.edu/patterns/weaving/articles/120_lac1.pdf
Laurie Waters and Karen Thompson both have expertise in this area.
I'm also worki
in
Antwerp that still celebrate?
Thanks so much!
Best Wishes,
Elena
--
Elena Kanagy-Loux
She/Her
Bloomsbury Encyclopedia of World Textiles
Co-Editor Volume 3, Non-Wovens
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THAT was FAST!
>
> Thank you Elena!!
>
> Nancy
>
> On Sat, Jul 10, 2021 at 5:46 PM Elena Kanagy-Loux
> wrote:
>
>> Hi Nancy,
>>
>> It's not a PDF, but the Met has a copy of the first Le Pompe pattern book
>> that is fully scanned with high resoluti
Hi Nancy,
It's not a PDF, but the Met has a copy of the first Le Pompe pattern book
that is fully scanned with high resolution images available online (they're
open access). Here's a link:
https://www.metmuseum.org/art/collection/search/356989?searchField=All&sortBy=Relevance&ft=le+pompe&offset=0&
rther resources!!
https://www.metmuseum.org/art/collection/search/218985?searchField=All&sortBy=Relevance&ft=lace+chasuble&offset=0&rpp=20&pos=3
Thanks in advance.
Best,
Elena
--
Elena Kanagy-Loux
She/Her
Bloomsbury Encyclopedia of World Textiles
Co-Editor Volume 3, Non-Wov
Dear Arachnids,
I was wondering if anyone had the contact information for Elena Dickson,
author of several books on knotted lace? I'd like to reach out to her about
contributing an article to the encyclopedia project I'm working on. Thank
you very much!
Best,
Elena
--
Elena Kanagy-Lo
Dear Arachnids,
I am in search of a historian who has expertise in the history of macrame
to potentially contribute an article for the encyclopedia project I
am working on. Any insight would be greatly appreciated!
Best Wishes,
Elena
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Dear Arachnids,
I hope that you are all well!
The subject of hanging bobbins has come up recently in both conversations
and in my research, and it's become a goal of mine to acquire one for my
own collection (or several, eventually). I've noticed that young people are
very interested in the topic
Dear Arachnids,
I hope you're all staying warm and cozy today (it's snowy here on the east
coast)!
As always I've been doing research on lace of the Tudor period for a
variety of projects and I've been compiling some favorite quotes (just for
fun!). Here are some well-known favorites from the per
stions for entries for speciality structures include:
-
Basketry
-
Kumihimo
-
Loop braiding
-
Nalbinding
-
Passementerie
Please send proposals to:
Elena Kanagy-Loux (Lace)
Antonio Ratti Textile Center, The Metropolitan Museum of Art
Email: enkanagyl...@gmail
Personally I identify most with the namesake of this very list, Arachne!
Technically she wasn’t a goddess, but as we all know she was a weaver who was
turned into a spider so I’ve always thought of her as a patroness of lace. :)
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Lyn, that's an excellent idea!
For those that didn't see David Hopkin's lecture yesterday, I took the
liberty of watching the entire video on YouTube this morning. Here it is,
for those who are interested:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yXgFV_YXYKA
Best,
Elena
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Hi Clare,
Agreed, they are just breathtaking! I have a video of a lacemaker at
Kantecentrum that I share in most of my lectures for graduate classes and I
always warn them that they will probably be disappointed with the speed of
my live demonstration at the end after watching this video. :)
Best,
Dear Nancy,
Interesting! I had never considered that, but it makes a lot of sense. I'll
have to give it a try! :)
Best,
Elena
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Dear Arachnids,
I hope you all are doing well!
I watched a very interesting online talk this weekend with Mathew Gnagy, a
historic costumer who makes some of his own needle and bobbin lace. You can
find his work on his website: https://themodernmaker.net/
I've heard him discuss several times how
Dear Arachnids,
I hope you're all having a nice week!
A graduate student in the MFA Textiles program at Parsons in NYC, Layla
Klinger, has been teaching herself to make bobbin lace and is interested in
connecting with a Polish Bobowa lacemaker as she herself has Polish
heritage. Do any of you kno
Hi Everyone,
I wanted to send out a further update to those of you that are interested
in submitting proposals to the encyclopedia project. In order to streamline
the process, please send them to me at this email address (
enkanagyl...@gmail.com) and copy the editor Vivienne Richmond (
vivie...@vi
In going to reply to this email I realized that the email address listed
for proposals is now out of date!
Please send all proposals to Vivienne Richmond, one of the project editors
along with Janis Jeffries at:
vivie...@viviennerichmond.com
For the proposal I think they are looking for a short (o
That's a great question, Kim, and one that I don't have an exact answer for
yet. If I recall correctly I think they will vary in length from short
entries to longer, in-depth articles. So there would be room for both a
longer, more general entry on the development of bobbin lace, for example,
follo
I love that idea, Devon. Absolutely, lace should be in every volume. Here's
the complete list of volumes for all that are interested:
1. Raw Materials: natural fibers, synthetic filaments, blending fibers,
spinning and twining threads and yarns
2. Cloth in Cultures â Wovens: woven structures, t
No worries, I get enthusiastic too and I realize tone can be difficult to
interpret in email. :)
There is still a lot of conversation going on with the editors determining
where to put different textiles because they're so hard to categorize. As
one of three volume editors for this particular volu
To clarify, I don't disagree with anyone here but I was attempting to
answer the question of why bobbin lace was included in the Non-Wovens
Volume. Apologies if it came off poorly. There are definitely many textiles
that will be difficult to categorize, and having a in-depth examination of
the stru
Thank you Nancy, I think conversations like these are fascinating and one
of the reasons why I enjoy Arachne so much! It's definitely difficult to
draw sharp divisions in a field with so much nuance. Contributions from all
perspectives are welcome and I look forward to reading them!
Best,
Elena
>
Hi All,
I think experts in early bobbin lace like Gil Dye can speak to this more
than I can, but evidence points to bobbin lace developing from braiding
techniques, not weaving.
Textile historians generally rely on "The Primary Structures of Fabrics" by
Irene Emery to draw such distinctions, wher
Dear Arachnids,
I was just notified that Arachne doesn't allow for attachments, so here is
a website link with the information!
Please note that as this is a bit older, the call is just for contributors
now and not volume editors.
https://textilesocietyofamerica.org/opportunities/bloomsbury-encycl
Dear Arachnids,
By now I am sure many of you have seen the call for contributors that has
been circulating for the upcoming Bloomsbury Encyclopedia of World
Textiles. I'm pleased to announce that I will be one of three Volume
Editors working on the Non-Woven Textiles Volume of the Encyclopedia, wh
Dear Veronika,
That sounds like a fantastic idea, but it would certainly be a difficult
task! Devon and I have spent many hours discussing just how many lacemakers
were active during certain time periods like in the late 19th century
revival industries. While it is impossible to compile this infor
Dear Jo,
I am familiar with the wonderful website LaceNews and with their YouTube
channel, thank you for sharing with everyone! They have done a wonderful
job of compiling videos about lace from all over the internet.
To clarify, when I say "limited" I don't mean that there are no videos
about la
Dear Arachnids,
Thank you again for all of your help in identifying holes in my list of
countries with lace traditions around the world!
The reason for this is a new project I am working on creating a YouTube
channel to share information about lace to a larger audience. I am not a
big user of You
Update: Thank you for the reminder that like the US, Canada and Australia
also have histories of making lace! Also, I feel I should include South
Africa as well, as there is even a monument to a lacemaker that I have seen
photos of in SA. Question: does New Zealand have a lace tradition? What
about
Dear Arachnids,
It has been pointed out to me that I have left Spain, Germany, Portugal,
and Switzerland off of this list, three of which are places where I have
personally traveled to study lace! So thank you for helping me with my
lapse in memory. This was a preliminary list that I wrote in abou
Hello lacemakers,
I am trying to put together a comprehensive list of every country in the world
with a lace tradition (my definition of “tradition:” they have been making lace
for at least a century, or once had a lace making industry. So not just a
hobby). I would love your help in ensuring t
Dear Brian,
Thank you as always for sharing your research.
It’s true that the Met made many images available to the public in recent
years, but those that still have copyright limitations generally come from
restrictions put in place by the donor or the artist. However, it’s my
understanding t
Hi Arachnids,
I was thrilled to wake up and read this article the other morning (sent to
me by Mary Mangan in MA)!
I mentioned in my IOLI talk on Wednesday that one of my interview subjects
from Genoa, Italy told me that more designers should use handmade lace, and
I agreed. At the moment, there
Dear Kim, Laura, Karen, and Maria,
Pardon my delayed response to each of you as I've had limited access to
wifi recently! Thank you all so much for your messages and the information
you shared, it's incredibly helpful. Arachne is a treasure. Clearly I need
to add Nanduti needle lace to my bucket l
Dear Arachnids,
I am researching a few Paraguayan nanduti lace collars in the collection of
the Met Museum, and I wanted to reach out to this eternally-generous group
and ask if anyone has expertise on this topic they'd be willing to share.
You can see an example of what I am talking about here:
Dear Arachnids,
Wow! Thank you all for your helpful responses. I have to go through them
all and thank you individually for your help. I'm sure this student will be
thrilled!
Also, apologies for misspelling Maire Treanor's name. I have terrible wifi
at the moment and I am not able to double check
Dear Arachnids,
I hope you are all well!
Brooklyn Lace Guild has just received an email from a fine art student in
Melbourne Australia who is interested in crocheted lace. She read about my
experiences winning a grant to travel across Europe in 2015 and is
interested in doing something similar to
Thank you Jean! I know much less about tatting than I do about other laces
(I can make it, at least!), so this is very helpful.
And thank you to everyone else who has replied to me for your input. What
would we do without Arachne? :)
Best,
Elena
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Dear Arachne,
I am hoping to ask for your thoughts on the origin dates of tatting and
crochet and see if they line up with what I have gathered over the years.
Tatting shuttles, of course are already depicted in 18th century portraits
as they were used for simpler knotting techniques, but what we
Dear Susan,
I used soie ovale at the school in Le Puy en Velay when making Craponne.
They use it as an added worker pair in cloth stitch motifs to change
colors, for example in petals and leaves. When paired with "stitckier"
linen thread it stays put and has a lovely effect. If I recall we started
Dear Nancy,
First of all thank you and everyone else who has replied to my query, I
appreciate it!! Sending individual replies now.
I do want to try a floral/figural design so I think drafting by hand is the
best bet. I have had an offer to work with a designer over Skype so that
sounds ideal! I w
Hi Arachnids,
I hope you’re all staying safe & well!
I’ve had an itch lately to design a point lace edging, and I’m wondering if
there might be some online resources you could share? I have designed some
Torchon & contemporary tape lace-style bobbin laces before but never point
ground. Any adv
Hello everyone,
Thank you for all of the encouraging replies so far!
Devon pointed out to me that there is some more information about this
piece in the Met's internal database, so I looked it up and found this:
"Linen, purchased in Secretariat of Schools, Prague, 1938; made in one of
special cra
Dear all,
As much as it would definitely be nice to have the ability to add photos
etc to Arachne posts, I have to say there is something I like about the old
school format of this list. With so many platforms oversaturated with
photos these days, it can be refreshing to be limited to bare-bones t
By the way, I have some better detail photos than the ones on the website
that I'm happy to share privately if you're interested! Just let me know.
Best,
Elena
>
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arachn
Hi Arachne!
I hope you are all staying safe and healthy indoors during these strange
times.
I'm doing a little bit of research into this lace-trimmed tablecloth and
was wondering if any of our Czech community could tell me anything about it:
https://www.metmuseum.org/art/collection/search/229528
>
> Thank you Alice and Adele for sharing your approaches! I'm going to try
> every explanation with my students and see what sticks.
I have also noticed that students interpret "clockwise" and
"counter-clockwise" differently when they are winding, so I've stopped
explaining things that way. It's
Thank you Beth! That is how I wind left-handed but I haven't tried hitching
that way. It's a very helpful video! Some left-handed students have no
problem doing the right-handed way, but I want to learn a variety of
methods so that I can help each student find the easiest way for them.
Best,
Elena
Good morning Arachne!
I have a question for you all. I have been teaching beginning bobbin
lacemaking for four years now, and have probably taught around 400 people,
so I feel very comfortable with it.
However, in every class I have at least a couple of left-handed people, who
sometimes struggle
Hello everyone,
I was reading an M. Jourdain article on Brussels lace (see link below) for
some research, and I found a reference to a book by a Mrs. Calderwood
titled "Mrs. Calderwood's Journey Through Holland and Belgium" from 1756.
This is certainly intriguing, but I have searched on Worldcat,
Dear Adele,
I have read about the use of a little scrap of fabric or bag used to hold
the finished lace while you are still working. Apparently it was typically
dark blue to keep the lace bright white (an old laundress's trick, add blue
dye to your whites). Perhaps dark blue could appear black in
Hello everyone,
I have a question about lace pillows in the 17th century Dutch Republic
that I hope you can help me with.
I'm giving a talk at the end of the week on lacemaking in Holland in the
17th century, focusing mainly around Nicolaes Maes's 1656 portrait "The
Lacemaker" (as seen at the lin
Hello everyone,
Devon and I have been discussing this mantilla in person today and I showed
her this handy little PDF from the V&A on lace identification which I
thought you might all enjoy. Not as thorough as Earnshaw of course but
still great.
Here's the link:
http://www.dressandtextilespecialis
Hello all,
I completely agree Alex! I start my students with Torchon but if the struggle
with the steps I have them do some braiding first.
My goal as an instructor is primarily to get students excited about lace and to
understand what they are doing so they can go off into the world and make
Hello everyone,
I hope you are all having a great week!
Brooklyn Lace Guild recently had an email from a woman in Chicago who is
interested in needle lace and is looking for more contacts in her area. She
took an Aemelia Ars class in Italy a few years ago and has continued to
work from books.
I
That’s a good question Ann! Like you, I see people sharing so many incredibly
large projects they’ve completed and I wonder where they find the time!
Personally, all of the fruits of my labor in the six years since I began making
bobbin lace can essentially fit in a single envelope. To be fair,
As a millennial I will just chime in to say that today’s young people are not
as divided in taste as perhaps they were in the past. You might be surprised to
find that many girls like dinosaurs & trucks, and many boys like pink &
flowers. The easiest way is just to offer everyone the same range
It definitely seems like an email from a hacked account. I would hesitate
to actually purchase the gift card without speaking with her directly!
Best,
Elena
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Hello everyone,
I hope you're all having a wonderful week!
As many of you know, I started a new job in October as the Collections
Specialist at the Antonio Ratti Textile Center at the Metropolitan Museum
of Art. My job mainly consists of holding viewings of textiles with
curators, conservators, a
Dear Devon,
How wonderful! I am so thrilled for you!!! I knew it would be a splendid
success.
Best,
Elena
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Dear Olga,
I took private needle lace lessons in Burano at Martina Vidal lace shop.
They have several lacemakers who work there and at the museum demonstrating
lacemaking who offer classes, and they are also able to arrange lessons. It
was absolutely lovely! There is more information about their c
Thank you to everyone who responded to my starching question! Apologies that I
couldn’t reply individually, I’m up to my ears in bobbins but I really do
appreciate it.
I have come to the conclusion that the best idea for this project is to use
magic sizing rather than starch, so the piece has m
Hi everyone,
I've been really enjoying everyone's conversations lately. Though I've
started some replies, they've languished in the draft box due to my busy
schedule, oops!
I have a question for all of you lovely lacemakers. I'm working on a very
special and exciting project that I cannot wait to
Hello everyone,
I must second Liz in expressing my gratitude to the incredible organizers
of the World Lace Congress in Brugge. What an amazing experience to be
surrounded by hundreds of lacemakers for a week.
I had a wonderful class with Chantal Ferrier in Valenciennes, it was a
great group, and
I'm not sure what video you are referring to, but it sounds like they were
working palms-up on a bolster pillow (which is how I learned in Slovenia).
You are able to work with all four bobbins in your hands that way.
Best,
Elena
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I agree with your assessment Marianne and thank you for the eloquent reply.
In my research it seems opioid use was more of a a 19th-century phenomenon
when factory work was displacing lacemakers and increasing hardships. And
these stereotypes are generally overblown - it'd be interesting to dig
dee
Dear Sharon,
Yes, I have read this as well. Actually when I was researching my article on
English lace history for the Met timeline I came across several early
19th-century references to lacemakers as being opium addicts whose children
rarely made it out of childhood. This was of course when ma
My understanding is the story "The Lacemaker" is using the title as a
reference to the archetype of the long-suffering lacemaker. You know, the
one that sits at her pillow fifteen hours a day in a damp basement until
she goes blind by age thirty. E.g.: the woman in the movie does everything
silentl
Sharon,
This is the way for lacemaking students. Or at least, it’s how I learned and
how I teach my students, but it seems very common. You learn one stitch at a
time and then combine them later to create more complex patterns.
- Elena
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Thanks for your answer Sue! I'm wondering what kind of lace you were
learning predominantly? I could see this being easier perhaps for certain
laces than others?
Personally I learned while traveling so I studied bobbin lace with multiple
teachers across Europe, which allowed me to cobble together
Liz R brings up the point about how historically, lacemakers did not have
the benefit of detailed diagrams and would have had to keep the designs in
their head, even for complex lace like Binche. Devon and I were just
talking about this the other day at the Yale lace event and it was boggling
our m
Hello all,
The seemingly natural attraction of those in the STEM field to lacemaking
has fascinated me for some time. I remember attending Ithaca Lace Day a
couple of years ago and after repeatedly hearing that so-and-so was a
mathematician or scientist, and I was intrigued by the connection. My
e
Dear Janice,
Adding to what Devon wrote, it’s an unfortunate coincidence that the
Japanese street style known as Gothic Lolita shares part of its name
with Nabokov's novel. Even to this day many Japanese are unfamiliar
with the book, and simply like the sound of the word Lolita as it
sounds wester
Thank you Devon for that wonderful explanation!
I apologize that I didn’t share the “Lace Unveiled” event with Arachne sooner,
I had included it on all of our social media platforms and in the BLG email
newsletter- if anyone would like to subscribe to that, please let me know! In
the future I w
Dear Devon,
Yes, the Japanese definitely have a love of all things lace! I recall going
to an exhibition of antique lace in Shibuya, Tokyo back in 2010 or 2011 I
believe? Unfortunately I just stumbled upon it so I have no idea where this
was. This was around when I started looking for a lace teach
I’m really enjoying reading everyone’s lace origin and Arachne stories! Thank
you all for sharing.
3000 members on Arachne - wow, that’s impressive! I’m wondering, Avital, if you
might be able to give us an updated count? I’m curious too!
Best,
Elena
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Dear Arachne,
I hope you all had a lovely weekend!
As some of you may know, I'm currently finishing up my MA thesis on the
topic of making lace by hand in a modern world. The majority of my research
comes from interviews with lacemakers that I conducted in 2015, in Croatia,
Slovenia, Italy, Franc
I actually don’t disagree with you, Gil. I was just “thinking out loud,” let’s
say. You make a great point about early bobbin lace being more like braiding
than lace.
Best,
Elena
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Pardon, I didn't realize we were specifically discussing contemporary examples.
I was interested in the overall debate. Of course, lots of lace is made in
color, I myself enjoy making bobbin and needle lace in color as well - although
I love white too! I love it all, honestly, no matter what one
You bring up a really thought-provoking question, Devon, what DO bobbin and
needle lace have in common??
When I talk to the uninitiated, I usually describe lace as “an umbrella term
that covers myriad techniques that vary across regions and history.” But while
bobbin lace is decidedly only lace
Dear Arachnids,
A very good point was made by both Jeri and Catherine about how lacemakers
with more experience in working with traditional techniques are sometimes
overlooked in favor of younger, less experienced artists. I think there are
a lot of factors involved in this.
When the general publ
Just chiming in to say this is all very interesting and I look forward to
reading this all more carefully later!
Best,
Elena
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Thank you Laurie, and thank you everyone for your responses! Seems I had a
right to be suspicious.
Best,
Elena
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Hello all!
I am researching the development of the lace industry at the moment, and I have
a fairly extensive bibliography, but there is one reference that I have only
seen in one place.
In Thomas Wright’s “Romance of the Lace Pillow,” on page 8 he makes a
distinction between bone lace as bein
That is wonderful Angharad! Bravo! Do you mind if I share this with the
Brooklyn Lace Guild? We might have some followers interested. :)
Best,
Elena
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Interesting! Thank you for sharing your knowledge.
I also noted while studying in Barcelona that bobbins were wound
counter-clockwise. Sadly, for the life of me I could just not get the hitch
right! The clockwise hitch is eternally cemented in my brain.
The instructor of said class told me that
Dear Amanda,
Thank you so much for sharing this link!
I’m a new member and very grateful to have access to the rich knowledge shared
by Jeri. I look forward to more!
Best,
Elena
Sent from my iPhone
> On Dec 8, 2017, at 09:24, Amanda Richards
> wrote:
>
> For those who have not found the art
Hi everyone,
I hope I’m understanding this correctly. When I studied Spanish Blonde at the
Lace association in Barcelona in 2015, the same thing was explained to me about
pinning only on either side of the tulle. I also did not prick the pattern. I
did however use a pin in every stitch of tulle
Hello Nancy,
Thank you so much for your suggestions! I will pass that along.
Best,
Elena
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Hello all,
As a new member of Arachne I wanted to introduce myself. My name is Elena
Kanagy-Loux, I’m a bobbin lacemaker, graduate student, and one of the founders
of the Brooklyn Lace Guild.
I also have a question! One of the students in my program is writing about
lacemaking in Puerto Rico
Thank you Devon for sharing! The class is a basic Torchon 101 including setting
up a pillow, cloth stitch, half stitch, and whole stitch.
Let me know if you have any questions!
Best,
Elena
Sent from my iPhone
> On Nov 29, 2017, at 15:32, DevonThein wrote:
>
> From 6:30 to 9:30pm. It’s a great
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