look at me like I'm nuts for wanting a weight on the
outside, but it's been the only way I can get a smooth ride. The MB
2-piece weights are sweet, they don't damage the wheel.
=)
-Dave M.
--
Date: Tue, 6 Sep 2005 12:00:54 -0400
From: ned kleinhenz [EMAIL PROTECTED
the higher cost.)
BTW - this is on my 87 300D. The updated sunroofs started, I think, in
late 1987 model year. Hmm... maybe I could rape the sunroof mechanism
from my parts car! Anyone attemped a DIY repair on these and lived to
tell the story?
:-(
--
Dave M.
Boise, ID
1994 E500 - 94kmi (Q-ship
In the podunk towns I live next to, diesel popped to $3.25/gallon this
morning. Might be $3.50 by sundown. If I can get virgin VO for $2.50/gal,
point me to the vendor, please. I'll keep track of every drop and remit my
DOT taxes promptly, honest Injun.
-dm
--
John,
Potomac German Auto (1-888-873-3236) has two of that exact part number in
stock for $125 each. Are you sure the ECU is bad? They don't often fail...
:-)
-Dave M.
--
Date: Thu, 1 Sep 2005 10:11:54 -0400
From: John Peterson [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: [MBZ
are not
allowed to be sent. Well isn't THAT just freakin' great. Anyone have a
workaround that doesn't involve posting files to an FTP server?
fume
--
Dave M.
Boise, ID
1994 E500 - 94kmi (Q-ship)
1987 300D - 258kmi (Sportline)
- drol:
http://forums.thecarlounge.net/zerothread?id=1996708
730Nm of torque
=:-O
Dave M.
Boise, ID
--
Date: Wed, 31 Aug 2005 15:49:11 EDT
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: [MBZ] Passat diesels
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Why not? It may well be. BTW, no one has mentioned
OMG. That's insane. Remember that reaction time does not affect the ET or
MPH, it only affects if you win or lose the race against the guy in the
other lane. Anyway, 13.1 sec @ 106mph... that's crazy.
More pics here:
http://www.nettiauto.com/viewVehicle.php?id_car=335361
Video here (40MB):
!!
-Dave M. :)
--
Date: Tue, 30 Aug 2005 13:33:01 -0500
From: Loren Faeth [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Baddest W123 ever (OM606 powered!)
I'm not sure the chevelle SS396 I had in HS could do that well. That is
impressive to lay down tracks like
That's exactly right. Two list members who tried the 0W-40 had lifter
noise return on their OM603 engines, and one noticed a significant
increase in iron wear particles in the oil analysis. Reverting to
5W-40 or 15W-50 cured both issues... lifters quieted down and iron
wear went back to normal.
As Marshall already mentioned, which you would have noticed if you had
been reading your messages instead of making snide jabs at Kaleb...
the M-1 0W-40 is on the thin side of a 40 rating. I vaguely recall
something about the Amsoil 0W-30 having similar specs? Despite being
awfully close
And THAT, David, is why I'm not interested in bypass filters. You do
get near-virgin oil in the engine at all times, but there's nearly
zero cost savings over just using extended drain intervals. Changing
the TP every 2.5k and adding a quart would be somewhat of a nuisance
to me. I would consider
For those of you who missed the memo, and since Mobil won't fess up to
it... Delvac-1 is now sold as Mobil-1 'Truck SUV' Formula but a lot
cheaper. Usually $5/qt, or if you're willing to go to the Evil Empire,
Mall-Wart has 5-qt jugs for ~$19.89. That's about $3.98/qt for
Delvac-1, folks. If you
I'm interested too. Details, please! Also, does it work only with
mineral oil, or with PAG/POE oils too...?
:)
-Dave M.
--
Date: Fri, 26 Aug 2005 07:30:15 -0700
From: Gabriel S. [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: Re: [MBZ] A/C treatment
What is the product called
. YMMV, etc.
=)
-dm
--
Date: Thu, 25 Aug 2005 02:09:35 -0400
From: Marshall Booth [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: Re: [MBZ] proper and best fluids
Dave M. wrote:
In addtion to what Jeff said...
1) Marshall noticed
There are benefits to using M-1 that are irrelevant to climate. For
example the OM6x0 hydraulic lifters often won't be quiet without
synthetics. And I've got better things to do than kill my precious
time changing oil every month or two instead of once per year.
Since there's no extra cost
The bottle they provide for the sample is very small... about 2
ounces. I test at oil change time but you don't need to, you can suck
a sample out of the crankcase at any time to send in for analysis.
=)
-dm
--
Date: Thu, 25 Aug 2005 09:46:05 -0400
From: andrew
That is SO true. The suckers are out buying fuel line magnets and
air-intake turbulators, along with that PVI platinum vapor injection
widget, which combined will give them 239% improvement in MPG. Oh and
let's not forget radar jammers and insect-repelling whistles. There
are lots of snake oils
at
idle). I have a nearly-new 115A alternator for sale from my E500 if
anyone wants it (I upgraded to a 150A). It will bolt up to any MB
engine from 1984-up with a serpentine belt.
=)
-Dave M.
--
Date: Thu, 25 Aug 2005 13:44:54 -0500
From: Potter, Tom E [EMAIL
performance, so it's worth a look!
:-)
Best regards,
--
Dave M.
Boise, ID
1994 E500 - 94kmi (Q-ship)
1987 300D - 258kmi (Sportline)
, and STP like the plague.
:)
Dave M.
Boise, ID
--
Date: Wed, 24 Aug 2005 13:39:23 -0500
From: Don Teresa Merriman [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Crazy to go 20K on any oil
OK please don?t flame me or what ever you computer geeks do, I asked the
question
It's not hype. It's well documented fact. What most people forget is
that you don't just dump M-1 into your engine and blithely drive 20kmi
before changing it. You need to do oil analysis on YOUR engine at
certain intervals to make sure your interval is correct. After you've
tested at (for
After you factor in cost of shipping the sample, etc, it's roughly $20
per analysis. I get the extended drain kits from Snider Petroleum
which include testing for soot percentage:
http://www.sniderpetroleum.com/oilanalysis.html
I usually get 3-4 at a time to save on SH from Snider.
:-)
Dave M
The M-1 oil filter was rated fairly well, it's one of the filters I
like and would use on my cars. I've never seen a cartridge filter
though, only spin-ons, so no M-1 filter for MB diesels yet (although
you can get them for M103 gassers).
For more than you ever wanted to know about oil filters,
Bah, that's mostly Amsoil sales hype. ;-) That link is comparing ONE
particular Amsoil product to ONE particluar M-1 product. And, it's a
weight not approved for use in Mercedes engines (being an xW-30, which
is too thin.)
Amsoil actually buys their base stocks from Mobil and then adds their
to decorate the innards of a nearly indestructible
engine with the equivalent of caviar, while fattening Exxon-Mobil
profits (which aren't as high as our GNP... yet).
On 8/24/05, Dave M. [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
The M-1 oil filter was rated fairly well, it's one of the filters I
like
additive like most claim to be -
it's specifically for cleaning. Neat stuff actually.
:-)
-Dave M.
--
Date: Wed, 24 Aug 2005 20:18:39 +
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: Re: [MBZ] proper and best fluids
BTW someone mentioned that the castrol syntec was not true
yadda...
:-)
Dave M.
Boise, ID
--
Date: Tue, 23 Aug 2005 11:33:44 -0400
From: Steve MacSween [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: [MBZ] Oh oh, another oil thread
It's the People's Cult Oil.
Well, people who argue that buying Dollar Store Old Yeller at 99c a quart
Here's some screen shots of the WIS, if you were wondering what it's like:
http://vzone.virgin.net/titanium.34/kms/wis/wis.htm
BTW, the 124 (and 126?) coverage is the same as on the CD-ROM's, but
adds transmission repair information. The later models (210, 211, 203,
etc) have more complete
If it needs a new ICU (probably meaning the LH fuel injection module),
they are available used from salvage yards in the $250-$500 range. No
need to plunk down $3k for a brand new one. These don't often fail,
though. I'd look elsewhere first.
:-/
-dm
Oh my GAWD, where did you score that? I thought I was doing great to
pick up a near-mint 300E for $2400 but that was an '86 with 200k on
the clock. I'd have soiled myself finding a 92 for the same price
(with body updates and full leather, standard in 92!). After fixing
all the assorted little
and it took about 2 hours. I could probably do it again in
under 30 minutes...
:)
-Dave M.
--
Date: Sat, 20 Aug 2005 11:56:51 -0400
From: Robert Massmann [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: [MBZ] Question about vacuum shut-off servo replacement 87
190D turbo
Well
Actually, I would part with it, but for a price... probably more than
most on this list would care to cough up, I'm afraid!! I need to post
some current photos of the completed car, I don't have many (any?)
with the enormous iForged wheels mounted.
;-)
-dm
for the privilege of making the key work again. I
was not happy either.
:-/
-Dave M.
--
Date: Thu, 18 Aug 2005 20:50:43 -0400
From: Mitch Haley [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Locked Ignition
Joe Mendyka wrote:
other times it can take 20 minutes of trying
: Marshall Booth [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: Re: [MBZ] New lock tumblers failing?
Dave M. wrote:
Oh great - I'm about to replace a 20-year old tumbler, thinking that
it's safer than waiting for it to act up and then seize, then I read
THIS:
http://500ecstasy.com/forums/showthread.php?t=2334
.
:-)
-Dave M.
--
Date: Thu, 18 Aug 2005 21:54:57 -0400
From: Robert Massmann [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: [MBZ] 87 190D Front crank seal repair
List I am going to try an replace the front crank shaft seal on my 87 190D.
I do not have the locking bracket, but was planning
Oh great - I'm about to replace a 20-year old tumbler, thinking that
it's safer than waiting for it to act up and then seize, then I read
THIS:
http://500ecstasy.com/forums/showthread.php?t=2334
I'm replacing it anyway, and hoping Neil's experience was a fluke...
:-(
--
Dave M.
Boise, ID
/OM60X/OM60x_Timing_Chain_TSB.pdf
(70kb PDF)
:-)
Dave M.
Boise, ID
--
Date: Thu, 18 Aug 2005 11:17:20 -0500
From: Kaleb C. Striplin [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: Re: [MBZ] OM617 timing chain stretch
good enough, chain
What you see on eBay at that link is a cheap copy tool, not the
genuine Mercedes tool (which is made by Iwis, btw, the chain
manufacturer). The cheap eBay tool will not press on the middle plate
for the new OE style master links, the genuine tool (with appropriate
jaws) will. (The aftermarket
' is 'Electronic Throttle Actuator', AKA the TBA
(Throttle Body Actuator)... same thing, different names. About $1k for
that part on an M119 engine. Luckily mine had it replaced just before
I bought the car.
:-)
-Dave M.
--
Date: Tue, 16 Aug 2005 13:48:09 -0500
From
production run...
all 124's after 1987 have an external 30A flat fuse.
:-)
-Dave M.
Boise, ID
--
Date: Mon, 15 Aug 2005 01:48:29 EDT
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: Re: [MBZ] AC Dead
(snip)
Also, about that year, a field modification was made to put the some
Bingo, Joe. In parallel on B10/6, in the left side of the heater box,
pretty close to the ignition/steering lock.
I would test your vent temps first... if 50-ish, go with the 80-85k
shunt, if it's already in the mid- to low-40's then try the 90k shunt.
As long as you stay over 36-38F min vent
Think we're talking apples oranges here... adapters to connect R-12
hoses to an R-134a system won't help me. The female threaded fitting
on the R-134a hoses looks the same, but it is larger than on R-12
hoses. Guess they're off to eBay when I have a chance...
-dm
--
,
this car has a dual-stage turbo setup... small turbo at low RPM, big
turbo at high RPM. WAY cool. I bet with a chip it would outrun the
'petrol' version.
:-)
--
Dave M.
Boise, ID
1994 E500 - 94kmi (Q-ship)
1987 300D - 258kmi (Sportline)
-- Forwarded message --
From: Aaron Lam
Date
, on off,
when the AC is engaged. This car has a dead diverter pod as well as
center vent, so I'm measuring from the side vents. The temp difference
would be minimal though. After all the pods are replaced I'll re-test
the system to make sure temps aren't too cold.
:-)
-Dave M
.)
:-)
-Dave M.
--
Date: Fri, 12 Aug 2005 09:26:00 -0500
From: Royce Engler [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: [MBZ] Boy is my face red...
My 300TD has been running REAL rough for a while. The other night I had a
flash of intuition and thought I'd better check the connnection
Hey, that's a neat service! I uploaded the full file (30MB) here:
http://s18.yousendit.com/d.aspx?id=10BSMZ90G5X1D3DC2T3RWJ5LHF
:-)
-dm
--
Date: Fri, 12 Aug 2005 11:34:40 -0400
From: TimothyPilgrim [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: Re: [MBZ] OT: BMW 535D video
Crap.
enough charge to affect performance
(hopefully a few years from now), then I will replace the switch the
next time I need to open up the system. I'm not crazy about running it
without the safety, but it will have to do for now.
:-)
-Dave M.
--
Date: Wed, 10 Aug 2005 17
to be modified or removed to prevent evaporator
icing.
:-)
Best regards,
Dave M.
Boise, ID
1994 E500 - 94kmi (Q-ship)
1987 300D - 258kmi (Sportline)
to me. Part number 60072, I paid $37 plus SH...
asking $35 with free SH, OBO... Any takers? If not, I'll dump them on
eBay eventually. New in box, never used...
:-)
--
Dave M.
Boise, ID
1994 E500 - 94kmi (Q-ship)
1987 300D - 258kmi (Sportline)
.
:-)
Dave M.
--
Date: Thu, 11 Aug 2005 06:24:27 -0400
From: Bob DuPuy [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: Re: [MBZ] W124 A/C question - UPDATE!
Hey Dave,
Thanks to you and Marshall for pointing this out! What type of
components did you use for you resistor pack?
Bob D.
nice set, actually)
that are useless to me. Part number 60072, I paid $37 plus SH...
asking $35 with free SH, OBO... Any takers? If not, I'll dump them on
eBay eventually. New in box, never used...
:-)
--
Dave M.
Boise, ID
!) and I hope the expansion valve is not the problem,
since that requires evacuation to repair, and the old R-12 valve is
not available from the dealer anymore (not sure if we can still get it
via aftermarket or not.) I'm still hoping for a simple fix with the
B10/6 evap sensor
:-)
-Dave M
Oooo... nice car, and a new engine too! I almost snarfed coffee out my
nose when I saw the price, though. Looks like the seller is trying to
recoup the cost of that new engine - plus labor. OUCH... they're about
50% over book value...
=:-o
-dm
--
Date: Wed, 10 Aug
Kaleb,
The M120 motor is very closely related to both the M119 and the M104,
I believe. It's a pretty solid engine mechanically... but
electrically, well, all the M119/M104 problems apply - wiring
harnesses, EZL failure (ok, that's not real common), TBA (that's more
common), etc. There are two of
of the major reasons I drive Mercedes...
anything short of a ready-mix truck with 12 yards of concrete on
board, and the odds are heavily in your favor! I kind of like Subaru
(especially the WRX STi) but I don't think they fare much better in
the crash survival metric.
:-)
Dave M.
Boise, ID
Kaleb,
EZL is the electronic ignition module/brain. On the M119 cars, they're
about $3k new, very hard to find used, and $750-$1000 used. Not a
common failure but I heard of several in the V8 community in the past
year or two. It's the kind of thing you keep your eyes out for and
grab a spare if
One tiny adjustment... the torque range neeed is, I believe, 30-40Nm,
not lb-ft... make sure you use the proper setting on your wrench.
Over-torquing can damage the pump. The torque procedure is listed in
the TDM (Tech Data Manual), not the normal service manual (don't ask
me why).
:-)
-dm
of an S-class, I'd go with the 300SDL. I
would not want an OM617, he'd be doing valve adjustments every few
months...
;-)
-Dave M.
--
Date: Tue, 09 Aug 2005 11:54:06 -0400
From: Mathieu J. Cama [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: [MBZ] Car advice
Fellow Listers
Peter,
Could you remind us again what the exact symptoms are, and if it
started suddenly or gradually?
:-)
-Dave M.
--
Date: Tue, 09 Aug 2005 05:57:31 -0400
From: Peter Arnold [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: [MBZ] I/P Delivery Seals
Dave mentioned that changing
puff, let me know. Strong
preference given to examples with a documented replacement engine,
although if it's original and uses zero oil and the price was right, I
think that would be OK too (then I'd make him proactively replace the
rods!)
:-)
-Dave M.
--
Date: Tue
seems to be sort of working as intended,
just at a higher temperature than it should. (???)
Best regards,
--
Dave M.
Boise, ID
1994 E500 - 94kmi (Q-ship)
1987 300D - 258kmi (Sportline)
1986 300E - 206kmi
had 134a - seems bizarre to me.) That includes
Duracool, btw. But hey, don't take my word for it... read it here as
part of the EPA test study guide:
http://www.imaca.org/sg-13.htm#flammable
:-)
-Dave M. (EPA 609 certified as of last night - woo-hoo!)
--
Date: Mon
up my shopping list of old Benzes to
acquire.
=)
-Dave M.
--
From: Joe Knight [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: Re: [MBZ] E55 AMG wagon in CarDriver
To: Mercedes mailing list [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sounds like in another 8-10 yrs Spud'll be drivin' a wagon. ;)
On 8/8/05
Joe,
That's a good question - might be a loophole, if one actually wanted
to do this. However to me it would be highly undesireable because you
would need to contaminate a virgin mineral oil system with POE in
order to do the 134a conversion. I'd be more interested in keeping it
PAG/POE-free
, installation is reverse. Special lock tool
highly recommended (~$30). A competent indy should be no more than 4-5
hours, IMO. Probably twice that for a first time DIY.
:-)
HTH,
Dave M.
Boise, ID
--
Date: Fri, 05 Aug 2005 15:56:27 -0400
From: Peter Arnold [EMAIL PROTECTED
set, should be $20 or so from
Rusty. Much cheaper than metal injection lines, which are about
$30-$40 each, or something ridiculous like that. (Don't ask how I
know... or just look at some of the other photos in that directory.)
Enjoy!
:-)
--
Dave M.
Boise, ID
1994 E500 - 94kmi (Q-ship)
1987
PDF file):
http://www.w124performance.com/docs/mb/other/134a_retrofit.pdf
:-)
Best regards,
Dave M.
Boise, ID
--
Date: Fri, 05 Aug 2005 04:31:08 +
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: Re: [MBZ] R-12
R-134 will work in r-12 systems but creates higher
to pooferate the system.
Back on soapbox... if you have an R-12 system, don't ever put PAG/POE
oil in it! Use a mineral-oil compatible refrigerant only (R-12,
AutoFrost, Duracool, etc).
=)
--
Dave M.
Boise, ID
1994 E500 - 94kmi (Q-ship)
1987 300D - 258kmi (Sportline)
Dave M. wrote:
In case
/POE oils,
it just doesn't work all that great in hot climates.)
:-)
Dave M.
Boise, ID
--
Date: Thu, 4 Aug 2005 09:22:14 -0500
From: Royce Engler [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: Re: [MBZ] R-12
To: Mercedes mailing list [EMAIL PROTECTED]
I've just been through the saga
with the
key on (or engine running). The electric fans should turn on low speed
when these wires are shorted. This red switch turns the fans on low
when refrigerant pressure reaches 16 bar, and turns them off at 12 bar
(approx 240psi and 180psi).
:-)
HTH,
Dave M.
Boise, ID
+ months in an effort to curtail the insane
amount of spam I was getting (100+ per day).
=)
-Dave M.
--
Date: Sun, 31 Jul 2005 20:27:02 -0500
From: Don [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: [MBZ] for Dave M.
To: Mercedes mailing list [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Huh? How can a reply
- not sure where to start. I'm not a W126 expert so I'll let
someone else pipe up on that topic.
:-)
HTH,
Dave M.
Boise, ID
--
Date: Mon, 1 Aug 2005 08:39:48 -0700 (PDT)
From: Nick Gough [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: [MBZ] Turbo adjustment on a 300SDL, A/C search
wonder if you dropped a 240D out of an
airplane if it would ever reach 140, lol!)
:-)
--
Dave M.
Boise, ID
1994 E500 - 94kmi (Q-ship)
1987 300D - 258kmi (Sportline)
not sure about
that.
=)
-Dave M.
--
Date: Sat, 30 Jul 2005 08:05:20 -0400
From: Andrew Cunningham [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Boost line check valve?
Casey,
I have been playing with the signal to the ALDA with the 617
About the wiring problem, I'd expect all years to have that issue. On
the W124, every model between 1992-95 had this issue. The replacement
harnesses you buy today, brand-new, are made of the SAME stuff and
will have the SAME problem in another 10+ years. (Hey - don't shoot
the messenger, OK?)
:-)
-Dave M.
--
Date: Thu, 28 Jul 2005 18:54:33 -0400
From: Kevin J. Slater [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: Re: [MBZ] OM603.960 question on valve stem seals..
To: Mercedes mailing list [EMAIL PROTECTED]
I chatted with Rusty (nice new feature by the way) about
, if that's at zero like it should be,
second step is to set pump timing. I'm told some people can come
pretty close with NO tools by using a mirror to look for the little
tab through the hole in the IP but I've never attempted this.
:-)
HTH,
Dave M.
Boise, ID
presume. If it's an intake seal the symptoms may
be slightly different? Make sure you use OE/dealer seals from Rusty,
not the aftermarket ones (they're different - see photo below.)
http://www.w124performance.com/images/OM603_head_replacement/valve_seals.jpg
:-)
--
Dave M.
Boise, ID
1994 E500
I looked up the part number for OM603 valve seals and ordered them
(aftermarket) from Rusty wy back during the head replacement job.
When I replaced them due to the smoking, I ordered the same part
number from Rusty but this time specified OE dealer parts, and got the
other style that time. If
schematics...
:-)
Dave M.
Boise, ID
--
Date: Wed, 27 Jul 2005 00:56:05 EDT
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: [MBZ] Electric fan and AC.
Are the two electric cooling fans suppose to come on when I turn on the A/C,
on my 95 E300D? If not, at what temputure do they come
but that would take tons of custom work and
probably a Myna-Diesel massaged manual injection pump ($1500) and
elimination of almost all the computer controls. Would be lots of fun,
but not easy nor cheap.
:-)
-Dave M.
--
Date: Wed, 27 Jul 2005 07:51:16 -0500
From: OK
No affiliation, etc... details are here:
http://buymbparts.com/forum/showthread.php?t=506
:-)
--
Dave M.
Boise, ID
1994 E500 - 94kmi (Q-ship)
1987 300D - 258kmi (Sportline)
Depends if it's a full AMG model, complete with 3.6L AMG motor, or
just a US wagon with a (genuine) body kit. I want the body kit,
though! The real deal will have full AMG suspension, too. MB offered
one in each body at the end of the 124 production (sedan, wagon,
coupe, cabrio).
=)
-Dave M
You adjust the ALDA richer until you can't feel any more power gain
off idle. This may produce a small puff of smoke leaving a stop, which
is normal. Adjusting the ALDA may NEVER produce more smoke at WOT so
don't bother looking for that. If you adjust it too far, you'll just
be wasting fuel.
=)
Hi Jay,
1) The wire is probably for the ABS sensor on the pinion shaft.
2) There are only two different rears, both are 2.87:1 ratio, but one
is limited-slip (ASD) and the other is not. If you car has ASD you
need to use special Mercedes fluid. If it's not, you can use Mobil-1
or any other
I don't have any camera that will capture video yet. Don't worry, when
I get one, there will be lots of video added to my website, lol!
:-)
-dm
--
Date: Mon, 11 Jul 2005 14:17:02 -0400
From: Andrew Cunningham [EMAIL
.
:-)
Best regards,
Dave M.
Boise, ID
--
Date: Fri, 8 Jul 2005 20:38:28 -0400
From: Andrew Cunningham [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Turned up fuel on OM603, sans IC or WI
Dave,
I was looking for the rate of increase during
lbs).
:-)
--
Dave M.
Boise, ID
1994 E500 - 94kmi (Q-ship)
1987 300D - 256kmi (Sportline)
Andrew, I think I had that info in the forum post (linked to in my
original message). Anyway in stock form, at the end of the 1/4 mile
the EGT's were usually 1000F. With it turned up, they now hit 1100F. I
did some testing to 100mph and the temp gets to 1200-1300F by then. I
now have the water
on feeding it a pound or two of R-12 and hoping for the best...
:-)
-Dave M.
--
Date: Thu, 7 Jul 2005 19:17:02 -0500
From: Tom Hargrave [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: RE: [MBZ] What to use as test refrigerant on R-12 system
There is nothing that will mix will work
Kaleb,
My W123 with R-134a conversion would also generate 38F (approx) duct
temps with 85-90F ambients, especially with the car rolling at 35mph
or more. At idle or not moving the temps are higher. And at high
ambients (100F+ with low humidity) it's not very good even at freeway
speeds.
But,
Heh-heh... I went deeper into a spare/junk 300E unit back when I had the
squealing problem on the gasser. I tore it all apart, but I had ZERO confidence
that it would be functional when I was done, not to mention anywhere close to
accurate. I'm pretty sure that it's best left to the experts.
boogered up. The O-ring should fit neatly on the
tensioner seat. Something to consider, anyway. This is documented in
the FSM somewhere. My white and blue cars had different tensioners,
that's how I discovered this little tidbit... another 'gotcha' to add
to your list!
:-)
-Dave M
, just unbroken! Anyone have some for sale
cheap? If so, please email me privately off-list...
Thanks!
:-)
Dave M.
Boise, ID
PS: Now I wish I hadn't sold the old ones off my white diesel for ~$25 to a list
member last year! D'OH!
The 1987 300D/TD buyer's guide is also posted as a plain text file at this link:
http://www.w124performance.com/docs/mb/articles/124.1x3_buying_tips.txt
:-)
-dm
==
If you've got rusted jack points, Jeff, I'd wager a tidy sum that a
little probing of the underbody
gains!
:-)
Dave M.
Boise, ID
gets M-1 or D-1, btw.
:-)
Thanks again,
Dave M.
--
Date: Tue, 28 Jun 2005 08:10:20 -0700
From: Joe Knight [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: Re: [MBZ] OM603 oil pressure question
18.4-1101a indicates the pressure sensor is at the base of the filter
housing; that'd seem
abnormal pressures and I want to
send them some info, but for the life of me I can't find it on the CD-ROM. Any
tips would be appreciated... thanks!
:-)
-Dave M.
dragstrip
data this Friday on how much quicker the car is. I believe I will be able to do
1/4 mile runs at WOT without getting into the danger zone (1300F+) but I'll be
watching the EGT's closely!
:-)
Best regards,
Dave M.
Boise, ID
Some maroon actually did pay the $12.5k Buy It Now price:
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItemitem=4556974801
It's a W123, fer cryin' out loud... **shakes head**
-dm
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