Well, from personal experience I can say that a well designed system has no
reason not to lug around all that extra stuff. I've had and known more
than a couple Suby's and The only AWD issue I ever recall was a minor
tendancy for the center clutches to grab around turns which was only because
we
Vacuum leak. Look for a hose knocked off. Was the oil just changed?
Levi
On 12/29/06, Lamsa Building [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
I have a problem with my 1981 123 deisel not turning off when the key is
turned. This happened all of a sudden. About the same time my door locks
also stopped
Depends on the size of the V12. If you're merely talking cylinders then I
know there's a V-16. I kinda think there's a V-18 or maybe a W-18 out there
as well. And then if you're not limited to cars there's more yet! (:
Levi
On 12/22/06, andrew strasfogel [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
Is there
E. Giles, Jr [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
Lincoln made a v-16, late 30's I think.
Dwight E. Giles, Jr.
Bissell Cove
Wickford RI 02852
-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
On Behalf Of Levi Smith
Sent: Friday, December 22, 2006 10:29 AM
To: Mercedes Discussion
Google does a lot of conversions too. Though I couldn't get it to do
ft-lb/n-m's (:
Levi
On 12/22/06, LarryT [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
Werner pointed out that a converter was missing from my list - haven't
tried
to search all the links to confirm his comment but he's probably right -
so
I find the new ones at least as easy, if not more so than the old ones.
Sure, you either have to take it to Autozone, or spend $100 for a code
reader (some of the Mercedes tools are way more than that) but then any time
there's a problem my experience has been that it pretty much just tells you
Couple interesting battery items:
-Got a new battery for my 83' 300D as the old one wasn't up to below
freezing temps. Ended up getting it from Advance for $70 as there's had a 3
year free replacment instead of the 2 year at Autozone and bother were 7
year prorated.
What's the Reserve rating?
Hmm, what is the AH rating on these batteries? This is/was an 850CCA
battery I was figuring that at that rating 40amps wouldn't be that
high, but then I guess I was confusing AH with CA... It is a smart charger
and should only put in what is needed. It doesn't normally put that much
Hey Mike,
Did you say something about being able to get Amsoil for $5/quart? I was
just out looking for some M1 and it seems to be more like $7+/quart now...
If Amsoil is just as good and cheaper, I'm all for that...
Or does anyone else know the best places to buy either? Heck, for almost
Yeah, it was fun this morning at a balmy 5F with a windchill of probably
around -10F or less. It was quite windy. Yeah, my battery is definitely
toast.
What amazed me was just how slow the engine can crank and still start. my
brother just swapped out his like 4 year old Subaru battery (I'm
Oh, I see Unaccompanied minors starts today.
I saw one trailer that showed them blowing up a w123. (or at least it sure
looked like it to me...)
Anyone gonna sign up to see that one?
Levi (:
So... as of last night I was thinking well it's supposed to be around 15F
this morning so I'll see how my 83' 300D handles that temp. Woke up this
morning and it was 25F, Pff, no problem.
Well... Something funky seemingly with the battery... It ran the glow
plugs fine, but barely turned over
to do the glow cycle, but that the engine itself draws a lot of
current
because of a compression ratio that is twice that of gassers. You are
using
Mobil 1/Delvac 1, of course??
Werner
- Original Message -
From: Levi Smith [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: Mercedes Discussion List Mercedes
I would sure as hell hope so... There are plenty of Subaru's out there with
gas engines with more miles than that on original engines...
On 12/6/06, Donald Snook [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
I have had 3 123's that 290K, 375K and 475K on them respectively. I know
that the older diesels can last
I was wondering how much heating it could do if the coolant were
circulating... Say with that nice heater coolant pump, or another one
elsewhere in the coolant lines to help heat my veggie tank...
Oh, and another more important question:
What's the rule of thumb as to how long it has to be
Not terribly. Seems like they were in the $50 each vicinity from tirerack
for my 83' 300D... Generally the Hakka's are harder to find than Blizzaks.
Though this time of year would be the wrong time to go to your local tire
store and try and find some... For that matter sometimes Tire rack runs
It is true that no one really needs 4wd.
HOWEVER...
Saying that if you can't get there in your 190D then it's not safe for
anyone no matter what is NOT.
Anytime you'd like to test your 190D against my 97' Suby with Blizzaks and
see who has more control in slippery stuff (including stopping but
I have yet to find any place nearby that is cheaper to buy them locally and
have them installed than it is to buy from Tirerack and have them shipped
then installed. If you have such a place, good for you!
Blizzaks may not last 6-7 winters (though my wife's and my parents have
lasted that
That is definitely true. Drivers are the biggest factors in the driving and
there are plenty of people who don't have a clue about their vehicles other
than yeah it's got 4wd and no clue about how the 4wd or awd works and what
effect that will have. So they pretty much just say yeah I got 4wd
Yeah, here in NY, I've heard Thanksgiving to Easter as a basic reference
point. That said we have yet to see any real snow so far this year.
They're talking about maybe this weekend though...
Levi
On 11/30/06, OK Don [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
Bear in mind that us Okie's can barely spell snow,
So strange that Mercedes didn't design their diesels to run on solid fuel!
(:
Levi
On 11/29/06, Redghost [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
Gump has auto frosting mirrors in the cold and she also chose not to
start with BioD in the tank at 16*F
On Nov 28, 2006, at 5:18 PM, John Freer wrote:
I know
This brings up a similar question I have. On Thanksgiving this year my wife
tells me that I'm supposed to have my headlights on for all Holidays and
acts like I'm the biggest weirdo in the world for never having heard such a
thing and that I'm basically trying to kill us all by not having my
Yeah, that one I'll agree with for sure. It always amazes me at the amount
of dumb shmucks out on the highway in pouring rain and really dark skies who
can't figure out how to turn their lights on so that someone might actually
see them...
I'm not against turning on headlights if it's a
If that's the case then you must have some propane injection or other such
option to boost your 83 300td to double it's horsepower... I figure my 83
300D has the same power and less weight than your td and I think it goes
about as fast as it looks. If anything, mine perhaps sounds faster than
So in other words, it's better to keep it against the rev limiter in 2nd or
third than to let the tranny shift and maintain full throttle at a lower
rpm?
Levi
On 11/14/06, Craig McCluskey [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
On Tue, 14 Nov 2006 14:05:31 -0800 (PST) Curt Raymond
[EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
I haven't tried Graspics, but on any other tire incuding Blizzaks, you only
get vibration when something is off balance. Usually when a weight falls
off, or if you get a buildup of snow, ice, mud, dirt, etc in the wheel.
Levi
On 11/12/06, John Peterson [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
What
When your car starts having less power. The first time I experienced it
with my 83' 300D, the top speed on the highway dropped to around 65mph, and
trying to climb hills was at a significantly reduced speed.
Levi
On 11/13/06, R A Bennell [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
So, how am I to tell when
So, I finally got behind the glovebox to look for this infamous foam tube
for the dash sensor on my 83' 300D, that if suitably replaced will
supposedly give me a system that does something other than I want it hot!
or I want it cold!.
Sure enough there was a hunk of gunky, sticky foam stuff
Also got in there and took a look at the blower motor on my 83' 300D that is
periodically blowing fuses. Not all the time, but every now and then.
Someone mentioned oiling the bearing and felt scraper with 30W might help
lessen it's draw. Well I got the motor out, but I didn't see any obvious
Jim, that's the perfect answer I was looking for! Cheap, simple and
precise! Now, let me make sure i have it right. I have some of that
insulation at home that has a slit down the side where it would slip over
the pipe and I don't believe it's self stick. If I'm remembering correctly,
the
at (that had service records) showed a box replacement at
some point. 123 drivers are often willing to accept an inch of play,
but 107 drivers seldom are...
Gary Thompson
Georgetown, TX
1995 E320
On 11/3/06, Levi Smith [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
I've definitely got more than 1/2
Ok, didn't even know about that one... So, if I'm thinking this
correctly... There is a switch behind the glovebox (where exactly? Or what
does it look like? I was back there the other day and there seems to be a
good bit of junk in there) so all I would have to do is upgrade the wiring
from
Hmm, I'm looking at the manual and the first thing I'm wondering is what
does this mean:
For perfect operation of automatic climate control, the manually operated
air inlets in instrument panel should not be closed altogether.
What air inlets in the instrument panel are they talking about? The
a piece of heater hose, but it will transmit blower motor
noise thru the dash. Go to a plumbing supply place, or maybe lowes, and
get some of that foam tubing stuff.
Levi Smith wrote:
So, I finally got behind the glovebox to look for this infamous foam
tube
for the dash sensor on my 83' 300D
I've definitely got more than 1/2 at the steering wheel rim. And I'm
looking at the pitman arm as I'm adjusting so I can't see how I could
possibly be dealing with play in the wheel bearings or tie rod ends(though
it seems as though nothing is simple in this steering system). (:
Levi
On
So, I was originally under the impression the 300SD was just a slight
variation on the 300D.
I'm now getting the impression that the 300SD is an almost entirely
different car but using the same engine and transmission.
So... Which parts are the same or different? From what I've
So, I'm now gathering that the 300SD is more or less a different car with
the same engine and transmission as the 300D (both 83's). So what parts are
the same(or compatible) between the two or which parts are different?
Engine
Transmission
brakes
body
suspension
springs
shocks
climate control
I'm still waiting for someone to show me an AMG W123 diesel... (:
Levi
On 11/2/06, Michael Hall [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/1984-280E-AMG-Rare-black-imported-5-spd_W0QQitemZ180046051091QQihZ008QQcategoryZ6329QQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem
eBay Item #180046051091
Am I the
Well, I could comment on how almost perfect my two 97' Subaru's have been
for about the last 7 years and hundreds of thousands of miles. But then
they don't have any of the features you listed except for the horn(though
they do work perfectly and have never had a problem).
Levi (:
On 11/2/06,
Well, I just pulled the steering wheel and adjusted it. That was WAY easy.
Am I mistaken in thinking that if the pitman arm lines up with the tie rods,
then it would have to be where it should relative to the gearbox?
Man, it seems like this stuff should be really simple, but there seems to be
From what I've gathered the old Benz's shouldn't have much trouble since our
IP's aren't lubricated by the fuel. but those engines that do have fuel
lubricated IP's are more likely to start seeing problems without additives
(seems like the fuel companies or stations would do this to avoid
Ok, you guys have got me a bit paranoid about overtightening the steering
box and after having changed it, I DON'T want to do it again. (Is there any
potential rebuilding I could do on the old one?)
So, I'm going to ask a simple question:
If I rotate the input shaft from the steering wheel back
and the steering box is not set
correctly it can make the car feel real funny when driving as that at some
point the steering gets slightly harder as you are turning left or right.
Trampas
-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
On Behalf Of Levi Smith
Sent
Jim,
Thanks for the valuable information. It all seems to make sense.
Just seems like a HUGE PITA to get these things set up correctly!
I'm trying to decide between:
-Leaving it as is and just driving the thing like I have been. Not a huge
deal. Just bugs me that it's not right.
-Paying
Ok, I've paid some attention, but not enough apparently to various models.
I'm considering Mike Canfield's 300SD. It seems this 83' 300SD is a 126 as
opposed to my 83' 300D which is a 123.
So...
What exactly would the difference(s) be? So far all I can see is that it
looks like it has the
Thanks Gary! That's the sort of here's how a normal person can do it
instructions I like to see!
Though your last comment of the standard looseness of the steering on a 123
kinda makes me think I'll just leave it because I'm never going to be happy
with it. Especially if I were to take the
I think that's one of those things you'd want to try in a separate container
first.
My thoughts are that it's going to depend on how well it's mixed. (did you
just dump in two gallons of B100 after an almost full tank of diesel? Or
did you mix everything to gether well first and then dump it
I found it pretty easy to tell which way to go with the adjuster on my old
box. If I screwed it down in I had about 6-8 inches of play in the wheel.
Screwed all the way out I had 1-2 inches of play. (:
Levi
On 11/1/06, Stephen D Murrell [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
Levi; i am wondering the same
in there as you
drove, and as the fuel gets added to the tank. Or do Bio and Dino not tend
to mix well - an oil and water type relationship?
Brian
83 240D
On 11/1/06, Levi Smith [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
I think that's one of those things you'd want to try in a separate
container
first.
My thoughts
OK, so I swapped out the steering box in my 83' 300D. I haven't driven it
much yet, but someone explain this to me:
--As near as I can tell, the steering shaft from the steering wheel to the
box is more or less slotted with a knotch where the allen bolt tightens down
the clamp from the box
Yeah, I thought it was a 126 too.
Levi
On 10/31/06, Tarek Elshenawy [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
I thought it was a 300SD (W126), but then again it's been forever since
I've
seen it.
SN
-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
On Behalf Of Tom Hargrave
Sent:
too well. Try using a floor jack on a gravel
driveway.
On Mon, 30 Oct 2006 18:01:34 -0600, Levi Smith [EMAIL PROTECTED]
wrote:
snip
(which got more fun out in the gravel driveway as the sun went away)
--
Luther KB5QHUAlma, Ark
'87 300SDL (270,491 mi) head case?
'83 300SD (241 kmi
That would be the correct label for anything other than ULSD... If you were
at a normal LSD pump that is the correct label.
Levi
On 10/31/06, Zoltan Finks [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
I read the warning label on the pump, and I think the station I was at
must
have had a misprinted label. It
Weird, I must have been lucky. Mine were no problem at all and I definitely
used more than finger pressure to tighten them...
Levi
On 10/20/06, David Brodbeck [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
Levi Smith wrote:
Just didn't feel like changing it?
Changing the thermostat on an OM617 can quickly turn
Well, I'm pretty sure it's starting in 1st as the engine is at about the
same speeds as when I manually select L like up the hill tonight...
It certainly seems like I'm missing a gear...
Levi
On 10/17/06, Kevin [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
On Tue, Oct 17, 2006 at 06:05:58PM -0400, Levi Smith
Well, I found 4 gears this morning. I think I missed it before because it
seems to be about as complicated as this conversation has gotten! (: I
tried a few times and I can't quite determine the 'standard' for my car from
a dead stop (1st or second). Part of my problem was that I thought that
Thermostats can be somewhat intermittent. The one that came in my 83' 300D
*kinda* worked. It didn't keep the car up to the temp it should be, but put
it in a pot of water and it sure looked like it was working correctly. But
then further looking revealed that it was not quite closing as fully
. There was nothing intermittent about the complete LACK of heat
that my riders and I had to endure...
On 10/18/06, Levi Smith [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
Thermostats can be somewhat intermittent. The one that came in my 83'
300D
*kinda* worked. It didn't keep the car up to the temp it should
OK, for some reason I was thinking the tranny in my 83' 300D was a 4 speed.
It's shifted rather hard since I got it more than a year ago. Then the
other day a thought occurred to me and I paid more attention today. Sure
enough it seems like I only have (or am using) 3 gears. If I had to guess,
If that doesn't work, hold down the shift key while you type.
Levi
On 10/11/06, Potter, Tom E [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
Press the Caps Lock key at the left end of the keyboard. :)
Tom
-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Rich Thomas
Sent:
If you've got water in your trunk, most likely it's from a leaking trunk
seal. I've seen water in my trunk on my 83' 300D though I haven't gone
looking for the culprit.
Though come to think of it, both of my Subaru's have had water in the trunks
and those were from leaking seals around the
Given a steep enough hill...
Levi
On 10/6/06, Jim Cathey [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
I have yet to see 80MPG in Gump in town at 20mph.
Can it make 80 MPH at 20 MPG?
-- Jim
___
http://www.okiebenz.com
For new parts see official list sponsor:
Now that's an awesome idea. if not impractical to implement on every single
light. (:
On 10/4/06, Mitch Haley [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
Levi Smith wrote:
Agreed then that really the only issue is the length of the yellow
light.
As long as I have enough time to see the light turn yellow
Oh, I wouldn't worry, I'm sure that's the Dollar General Mobil 1 full
synthetic with a CF rating...
Levi (:
On 10/5/06, [EMAIL PROTECTED] [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
I've been using Dollar General $.99/quart 30-weight stuff. Can I still
start
in the -20F winter temps?
Good thing Booth isn't
If you're in the middle of the intersection (which I would assume would mean
you were under the traffic light and beyond where you could see the color)
then it could have been yellow when you were looking at it and turned red
after it went out of your vision...
Another thought occurs to me: Are
Ok, I could buy that, but if increasing the yellow light time by a second or
so decreases the accidents, then theoretically they should all be doing that
instead of we'll leave it at it's short time because we make more money.
Levi
On 10/3/06, David Brodbeck [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
Levi
You can get that turbo sound by disconnecting your exhaust after the down
pipe. Mine broke on the flexible section and it's pretty cool at some slow
speeds where it sounds just like a semi truck with the turbo spooling up and
slowing down. (:
Levi
On 10/4/06, Stephen D Murrell [EMAIL
/4/06, ernest breakfield [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
neither case is an issue (at least here), since the cams are only
triggered by
vehicles entering the intersection *after* the light turns red.
cheers!
e
Levi Smith wrote:
If you're in the middle of the intersection (which I would assume would
I'm picturing something like that engine on a trailer behind your 240D
driving it's own wheels and with some sort of steering mechanism... (:
Levi
On 10/3/06, LarryT [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
Hmmm... I wonder if I could squeeze one of those 560-HP engines into my 78
240D to give it a little
thinking
something more than just a center hitch between the car and trailer. I can
only imagine the potential torque steer with 500+ horsies back there... (:
Levi
On 10/3/06, Mitch Haley [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
Levi Smith wrote:
I'm picturing something like that engine on a trailer behind your
Car and Driver has had several articles on the cameras over the last couple
years. Almost every time, when they dig into the research, most(not all) of
the locations show an INCREASE in the amount of accidents, NOT a reduction.
And yes, lots of money for the corporation and some government
I'm a fan of the flush and in my mind a Trans flush includes fluid and
filter. Sadly it seems that now they are no longer including the filter
with the flushes for supposedly some sort of extra risks involved with
dropping the pan.
Levi
On 9/28/06, Dan Weeks [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
sudden
I'd spend the $15 to get a new primer pump and then see how things act...
(:
Levi
On 9/27/06, Bob Rentfro [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
Each time I have to brake agressively, the engine almost stalls. The idle
drops way below what it normally is and it doesn't recover unless I give it
a bit of
Is this not the same as an 83' 300D? If so, I think you're asking for a
heck of a lot more work than speding the roughly $12 plus shipping for a
newer model primer pump that does not require unscrewing to use, that simply
requires unscrewing the old and screwing in the new to replace...
Then
.
Bob Rentfro
- Original Message -
From: Levi Smith [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: Mercedes Discussion List mercedes@okiebenz.com
Sent: Wednesday, September 27, 2006 12:33 PM
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Almost Stalls After Agressive Braking
I'd spend the $15 to get a new primer pump and then see how
I would bet that would be a juice bottle that has been recycled as it
were.
While driving and one does not want to stop, the juice that has been
consumed will come back out and go back in the bottle. When it is tossed
out the window it would become a bomb...
Levi (:
On 9/26/06, Kaleb C.
I need to worry about when swapping basically getting
the steering wheel back to a straight position?
Thanks!
Levi
On 9/21/06, Levi Smith [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
I'm under the presumption that I have not overadjusted it since I never
got to the point where turning the input shaft to the box
I'd say that's personal preference. Either one bugs me with the code it
creates sometimes. I use Quanta in text mode in Linux.
Though personally of the two I'd go with NVU since it is LEGALLY free. (:
Levi
On 9/22/06, LT Don [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
Is it better than NVU, which is also
Ok, so just how connected are the power steering pump and gearbox on an 83'
300D?
To my knowledge the pump just helps make the gearbox easier to turn,
right?
Basically, my box seems to be at it's end. Last time I went in there and
just turned the input shaft of the gearbox by hand and watched
. (:
Levi
On 9/21/06, Michael [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
So you checked the oil level right?
Yes, the pump should be very easy to remove and replace. Been there, done
that. The pump is common to SD models i think.
-Michael
-Original Message-
From: Levi Smith [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: Sep 21
I'm under the presumption that I have not overadjusted it since I never got
to the point where turning the input shaft to the box produced an immediate
movement in the output shaft. Like I said, there was about 6 inches or so
of play at the steering wheel when I got the car and tightening (or
see if I get to it
before I'm done with work this week... (:
Levi
On 9/11/06, Mitch Haley [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
Levi Smith wrote:
So... I thought for kicks I'd go look at a couple places, and it seeat
best
it's some $120 for this little piece of flex exhaust pipe.
Isn't there supposed
That's my philosophy as well. They are completely rebuildable, but not by
me. No, they're not that complicated, but I don't terribly want to get
something just a hair off and have it spinning at 50K or 100K rpm's
(:
Personally, if I have a turbo problem, I'm either looking for a used one,
I've seen something similar on mine with the rotors worn the right(wrong?)
way. Basically, the outer edge of the rotor is not wearing down with the
rest of the face. So, there can be a lot of pad left, but the outer edge of
the rotor starts eating into the outer edge of the pad and/or wire and
Just to confirm... There IS a fuel cutoff or governor or what not on my 83'
300D, correct? My tach only worked briefly at on point, but I thought my
tranny was shifting near redline. However, yesterday I tried leaving it in
L while climbing my hill where normally in D it shifts out of 1st
I think there's a lot of difference the circumstances of the info being
handed out. While I don't disagree with your statements, you're not
mentioning anything about heating. In my mind that makes all the difference
in the world. I have yet to hear of anyone who's put on 50K miles by just
Sure. BUt not that simply. If you have a spare furnace and/or know what
you're doing it can be done with varying degrees of success and or work
prior/during it's use.
Personally I'm in the same situation, but I don't know enough about my
furnace that I feel comfortable with it and everything
Well, they had it lik in a 2 liter bottle hanging above the hood as I
recall, but yeah, pretty anticlimactic, it just worked.
The only thing that made me a bit worried was they ended it with: Yeah, you
can just run your diesel on straight vegetable oil without a problem
Umm... sure, depending
As was said before... This is just the REASON we will be given when the
prices go up. No one said it was reasonable. (:
Levi
On 8/8/06, Kevin [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
On Mon, Aug 07, 2006 at 08:51:36PM -0500, Kaleb C. Striplin wrote:
Y'all heard about the pipeline today? They say oil
Are you sure they're not just looking for plain text instead of potential
html from a website?
If I'm understanding correctly, you are just looking for a plain text file
at the end, right? Or do you need a picture?
Oh wait This special program they have is what you have to use and that
I agree. THough last time I used USPS, I could order the tape and stickers
for free as well. But that was a while ago... (:
Levi
On 7/29/06, Mike Canfield [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
I'm not trying to be smart here but you guys really need to rethink your
shipping. There is no reason at all
They're CALLED 12V batteries. They are actually 13.2v. You need more than
that voltage so that it brings it up to that level and/or otherwise has
spare power without worrying about running down the battery.
Levi
On 7/28/06, LarryT [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
One more electrical question - I
See if it has the newer fittings? That's how I was told mine was
converted... No guarantee but a good sign.
Levi
On 7/26/06, mark maturo [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
How can I determine if my 1991 607 engine has already been converted from
R12 to R34?
Thanks
I've heard that theory. And it does make sense. I've not experienced it
though.
But yes, it certainly seems like an almost dead battery could stress the
alternator. It must be a certain problem though. Cause in my experience,
the battery gets too weak to start the car and that's the point you
Over here in the states I've heard good things about Goo Gone which one
would get from Wal-Mart. Not sure what you might find on your side of the
pond...
Levi (:
On 7/25/06, Howard Fulford [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
Listers
I recently fixed my busted sunroof - both 'lifting arms' were broken
Does the Compressor clutch engage with 12v applied directly to it?
On 7/20/06, B Dike [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
The 85 300CD A/C compressor won't turn on. I tried the ACC from the 82
which works ok but it had no effect. What other switches should be
checked? The A/C previously worked fine.
Personally I'd go with the 05'. But then again I guess I'd want more info
on the rear end... I know I've heard the newer models (like since 98) you
have to be sure not to lose fuel pressure or they tend to take out the IP...
I know what you mean about enjoying them... My dad's got a 97 or 98
I have yet to complete the process to verify 100%, but it appears so...
I'm downloading from this site right now:
http://keepvid.com/
But it looks like this would probably work directly...
http://videodownloader.net/get/?url=http%3A%2F%2Fyoutube.com%2Fwatch%3Fv%3D-bIV_hHPAFQ
On 7/19/06, Mike
Depends on how much coolant and how much you run it. It's certainly not
good for anything. If everything else seems fine I wouldn't worry much
about it. However if you keep running it and more coolant gets in there, at
some point your oil pressure will drop and you will be in big trouble. I
I'm not quite sure I agree with the brand seeming to be about 95% of the
only thing I'm hearing here... You know each brand makes good tires and
they make shitty tires. It all depends on which particular model you're
talking about.
Bridgestone makes Blizzaks which are just plain awesome snow
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