[MBZ] 1980 300SD

2009-10-12 Thread LarryT
http://www.mypreownedmercedes.com/matrix.php?mbid=82970

Found this on the MB Classic website - a very nice 1980 300SD!

LarryT
91 300D

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Re: [MBZ] Bore measurements on 140 SD

2009-10-12 Thread Mitch Haley

Loren Faeth wrote:


IMHO, you have a problem with a bent rod on #1.  It is bent enough so 
that I predict a short life after the engine is running again , if you 
don't address the #1 rod at least.  Seems to me what you describe is in 
the neighborhood of 0.010 inch or so, (maybe more) and that is a problem.




I concur. If five pistons stand proud of the block, and one piston is recessed, 
and you can detect that by feel, there's something wrong with that one cylinder.
When you add to that the fact that the most worn cylinder is the same one with 
the short rod, and it's the cylinder that's famous for bending its rod, I'd say 
replace that rod and hope you caught it quick enough so that cylinder still 
seals ok. If one cylinder out of six makes 95% of the power of the others, the 
engine as a whole shouldn't run too badly.


Mitch.

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[MBZ] W124 Motor Mounts

2009-10-12 Thread LarryT
Hi Gang - 
I may need motor mounts on my '91 300D in the future (170k mi currently) 
and was wondering what the difficulty is?

   Anyway, can I raise the engine slightly and swap out the mounts?  They 
look to be more complex than the old rubber mounts - 

Thanks!
LarryT 
91 300D 


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Re: [MBZ] W124 Motor Mounts

2009-10-12 Thread Mitch Haley

LarryT wrote:
Hi Gang - 
I may need motor mounts on my '91 300D in the future (170k mi currently) and was wondering what the difficulty is?


Haven't done it myself, but I would assume the chief difficulty is in cleaning 
the holes in the allen bolts and removing them without stripping the hex.


Mitch.

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Re: [MBZ] PHX CL TD

2009-10-12 Thread WILTON

Dang!  No leather, and no 40 mpg?  ;

Wilton

- Original Message - 
From: Bob Rentfro azbob...@gmail.com

To: Mercedes Discussion List mercedes@okiebenz.com
Sent: Monday, October 12, 2009 1:40 AM
Subject: [MBZ] PHX CL TD



http://tucson.craigslist.org/cto/1415481148.html

Not bad...

Bob R
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Re: [MBZ] Bore measurements on 140 SD

2009-10-12 Thread Kaleb C. Striplin
Yes, i do see the cross marks, although the marks in #1 do seem slightly 
fainter than the rest of the cylinders, at least to the naked eye.


Loren Faeth wrote:
If I am assessing your measurements correctly, you are getting 
readings under the nominal bore size?  (negative)  that seems odd.  If 
your numbers are in thousandths of a MM, then i think Mitch is right.  
Probably not much to get worried about.  Can you see crosshatching on 
the cylinder walls?  if so, your bore is NOT worn.  If not, the bore 
is worn where the crosshatch is no longer evident.
I have never used digital gauges, butif it is worn badly, you should 
be able to tell with the naked eye.  if wear is only 0.020mm, or less, 
I don't see much concern.  THe ridge on the bore or the  crosshatch 
will tell you most of the story.


I know in the past, pistons were binned according to actual dia, and 
blocks were stamped with actual bore.  Thus, the actual bore was fit 
with a piston with the exact clearance.  My 621 short block was 
actually nominal .5mm overbore.  each hole was stamped something like 
,47 indicating  87.47 mm bore for a nominal 87.5 mm. the Piston tops 
were also stamped with the exact dia.   I don't know if they still use 
this practice.  If the deck of your block has numbers stamped by each 
hole, then pay attention, because that will tell you the exact bore 
size when it was new.


IMHO, you have a problem with a bent rod on #1.  It is bent enough so 
that I predict a short life after the engine is running again , if you 
don't address the #1 rod at least.  Seems to me what you describe is 
in the neighborhood of 0.010 inch or so, (maybe more) and that is a 
problem.


Until you can get the same measurement repeatedly, you have more gauge 
error or operator error than actual wear.  When I did compression 
tests on the SDL you now have, I used both an snappy gauge and the HF 
gauge until I was sure where the variation was coming from.  (carbon 
on valves and the HF gauge)  THen I settled on the Snappy gauge, and 
got consistent results.  (One place where the HF tool is not up to 
par.)  To be fair, my cheap one was from some online place, not HF, 
but the HF one at the time was essentially the same design.



At 10:12 PM 10/11/2009, you wrote:
No, have not put a depth guage on the piston tops, or inspected the 
rod.  I do not have a depth gauge, where would you get such an item?
About the most I have checked on the deck height is when #1 is at the 
top, if you run your fingernail for example from piston to block, it 
will catch, on the others, it will catch when you go the other way 
from block to piston.  In other words, just from the naked eye, #1 
does sit just a very very small amount lower than the rest.  If its 
enough to matter, I do not know.


Mitch Haley wrote:

Kaleb C. Striplin wrote:

.422   .398


So, your bore gage reads in mm, and it does two point measuring so 
you can measure along the crank and across the crank?
And the above is the worst you have, with across the crank being 
.024mm wider? If that were .024, you'd have junk. .024mm is just 
under .001, which doesn't sound like much to me, but might be a lot 
for a diesel. I was recently looking at the spec on dad's 2 stroke 
outboard, and max out of round to reassemble without boring it was 
.003.


It did come out as expected/feared, with #1 being the most worn. 
Have you inspected #1 rod? Or at least put a depth gage on the 
piston tops?


Mitch.


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560SEL, 87 300SDL x2, 85 380SE 5.0 Euro, 85 190D, 84 190D, 84 300D 
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Loren Faeth

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Kaleb C. Striplin/Claremore, OK
95 E300, 92 500SEL, 92 300SD, 92 300E 4Matic, 91 300D, 91 300E, 
89 560SEL, 87 300SDL x2, 85 380SE 5.0 Euro, 85 190D, 84 190D, 
84 300D euro manny, 81 240D, 80 240D, 76 240D, 76 300D, 
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Re: [MBZ] Bore measurements on 140 SD

2009-10-12 Thread Kaleb C. Striplin
If I wanted to replace that one rod, I would have to pull the crank and 
everything wouldnt I? 


Mitch Haley wrote:

Loren Faeth wrote:


IMHO, you have a problem with a bent rod on #1.  It is bent enough so 
that I predict a short life after the engine is running again , if 
you don't address the #1 rod at least.  Seems to me what you describe 
is in the neighborhood of 0.010 inch or so, (maybe more) and that is 
a problem.




I concur. If five pistons stand proud of the block, and one piston is 
recessed, and you can detect that by feel, there's something wrong 
with that one cylinder.
When you add to that the fact that the most worn cylinder is the same 
one with the short rod, and it's the cylinder that's famous for 
bending its rod, I'd say replace that rod and hope you caught it quick 
enough so that cylinder still seals ok. If one cylinder out of six 
makes 95% of the power of the others, the engine as a whole shouldn't 
run too badly.


Mitch.

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Kaleb C. Striplin/Claremore, OK
95 E300, 92 500SEL, 92 300SD, 92 300E 4Matic, 91 300D, 91 300E, 
89 560SEL, 87 300SDL x2, 85 380SE 5.0 Euro, 85 190D, 84 190D, 
84 300D euro manny, 81 240D, 80 240D, 76 240D, 76 300D, 
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Re: [MBZ] Bore measurements on 140 SD

2009-10-12 Thread Mitch Haley

Kaleb C. Striplin wrote:
If I wanted to replace that one rod, I would have to pull the crank and 
everything wouldnt I?


You'd need to pull oil pan(s) until you could see the rod studs, take off the 
rod bearing cap, put thin hoses over the studs to protect the crank journal, and 
shove the rod  piston out the top. I don't know if you can get away with 
pulling just the lower pan to do #1 or not.


Mitch.

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Re: [MBZ] Bore measurements on 140 SD

2009-10-12 Thread Loren Faeth
On the older Diesels, the smaall steel pan could be removed, engine 
in car, to service #1 and the oil pump.  I have never seen a 603/140 
combination, so I don't know what you are up against.  If it has a 
one piece pan, you will have to pull the engine.  At that time, you 
may want to use your weird 603, or repair the original.


At 09:04 AM 10/12/2009, you wrote:
I don't know if you can get away with pulling just the lower pan to 
do #1 or not.


Loren Faeth 



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Re: [MBZ] 1980 300SD

2009-10-12 Thread Craig McCluskey
On Mon, 12 Oct 2009 07:06:53 -0400 LarryT l02tur...@comcast.net wrote:

 http://www.mypreownedmercedes.com/matrix.php?mbid=82970
 
 Found this on the MB Classic website - a very nice 1980 300SD!

I had to go to page to to see it. Yes, indeed, it is very nice. 1327 miles
and virtually new. Price is in line with new as well, $65,000. A little
more than I can spend right now.


Craig

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Re: [MBZ] Bore measurements on 140 SD

2009-10-12 Thread Kaleb C. Striplin
I think its got the same pan as all the other 603's do, which is a 1 
piece I believe.


Loren Faeth wrote:
On the older Diesels, the smaall steel pan could be removed, engine in 
car, to service #1 and the oil pump.  I have never seen a 603/140 
combination, so I don't know what you are up against.  If it has a one 
piece pan, you will have to pull the engine.  At that time, you may 
want to use your weird 603, or repair the original.


At 09:04 AM 10/12/2009, you wrote:
I don't know if you can get away with pulling just the lower pan to 
do #1 or not.


Loren Faeth

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--
Kaleb C. Striplin/Claremore, OK
95 E300, 92 500SEL, 92 300SD, 92 300E 4Matic, 91 300D, 91 300E, 
89 560SEL, 87 300SDL x2, 85 380SE 5.0 Euro, 85 190D, 84 190D, 
84 300D euro manny, 81 240D, 80 240D, 76 240D, 76 300D, 
http://www.okiebenz.com


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Re: [MBZ] Bore measurements on 140 SD

2009-10-12 Thread Craig McCluskey
On Mon, 12 Oct 2009 10:04:41 -0400 Mitch Haley m...@voyager.net wrote:

 Kaleb C. Striplin wrote:
  If I wanted to replace that one rod, I would have to pull the crank
  and  everything wouldnt I?
 
 You'd need to pull oil pan(s) until you could see the rod studs, take
 off the  rod bearing cap, put thin hoses over the studs to protect the
 crank journal, and  shove the rod  piston out the top. I don't know if
 you can get away with  pulling just the lower pan to do #1 or not.

The oil pump might be in the way, but you have a much better chance at
removing #1 with the complete engine in the car than you would with #6.
Remember the tubing over the lower end studs as Mitch suggested.


Craig

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Re: [MBZ] 1980 300SD

2009-10-12 Thread Mitch Haley

I like the trike on page 2, but not enough to pay $70k for a replica.

Mitch.

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Re: [MBZ] Bore measurements on 140 SD

2009-10-12 Thread Kaleb C. Striplin
Does anybody know if you can buy just 1 rod?  Will have to check with 
Rusty I guess.


Craig McCluskey wrote:

On Mon, 12 Oct 2009 10:04:41 -0400 Mitch Haley m...@voyager.net wrote:

  

Kaleb C. Striplin wrote:


If I wanted to replace that one rod, I would have to pull the crank
and  everything wouldnt I?
  

You'd need to pull oil pan(s) until you could see the rod studs, take
off the  rod bearing cap, put thin hoses over the studs to protect the
crank journal, and  shove the rod  piston out the top. I don't know if
you can get away with  pulling just the lower pan to do #1 or not.



The oil pump might be in the way, but you have a much better chance at
removing #1 with the complete engine in the car than you would with #6.
Remember the tubing over the lower end studs as Mitch suggested.


Craig

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--
Kaleb C. Striplin/Claremore, OK
95 E300, 92 500SEL, 92 300SD, 92 300E 4Matic, 91 300D, 91 300E, 
89 560SEL, 87 300SDL x2, 85 380SE 5.0 Euro, 85 190D, 84 190D, 
84 300D euro manny, 81 240D, 80 240D, 76 240D, 76 300D, 
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Re: [MBZ] Bore measurements on 140 SD

2009-10-12 Thread Kaleb C. Striplin

Will it remove out the top? I figured it would have to come out the bottom.

Mitch Haley wrote:

Kaleb C. Striplin wrote:
If I wanted to replace that one rod, I would have to pull the crank 
and everything wouldnt I?


You'd need to pull oil pan(s) until you could see the rod studs, take 
off the rod bearing cap, put thin hoses over the studs to protect the 
crank journal, and shove the rod  piston out the top. I don't know if 
you can get away with pulling just the lower pan to do #1 or not.


Mitch.

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--
Kaleb C. Striplin/Claremore, OK
95 E300, 92 500SEL, 92 300SD, 92 300E 4Matic, 91 300D, 91 300E, 
89 560SEL, 87 300SDL x2, 85 380SE 5.0 Euro, 85 190D, 84 190D, 
84 300D euro manny, 81 240D, 80 240D, 76 240D, 76 300D, 
http://www.okiebenz.com


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Re: [MBZ] Bore measurements on 140 SD

2009-10-12 Thread dave walton
I did not see any way to drop the oil pan with the engine in the car.
The front frame is directly under where you want to get to and can't
be removed (without a torch or plasma cutter). If anyone knows how to
avoid pulling the engine, please speak up.

Once you get the oil pan off you can access the lower end of the
connecting rod to replace it without pulling the crank.

The transmission and engine come out as a unit.

You will need a 2-ton shop crane. To access the center of gravity of
the engine/transmission unit you need to extend the arm to it's
maximum. The lift capacity goes down as the arm length goes up. Even
with the Harbor Freight 2-ton crane maxed, the lift cylinder wanted to
hit against the front bumper. If I had to do it again, I'd use a
gantry crane on wheels.

I was quoted $140 from the dealer for the replacement rod. They
charged me $190 when it came in.

-Dave Walton

On Mon, Oct 12, 2009 at 9:55 AM, Kaleb C. Striplin ka...@striplin.net wrote:
 If I wanted to replace that one rod, I would have to pull the crank and
 everything wouldnt I?
 Mitch Haley wrote:

 Loren Faeth wrote:

 IMHO, you have a problem with a bent rod on #1.  It is bent enough so
 that I predict a short life after the engine is running again , if you don't
 address the #1 rod at least.  Seems to me what you describe is in the
 neighborhood of 0.010 inch or so, (maybe more) and that is a problem.


 I concur. If five pistons stand proud of the block, and one piston is
 recessed, and you can detect that by feel, there's something wrong with that
 one cylinder.
 When you add to that the fact that the most worn cylinder is the same one
 with the short rod, and it's the cylinder that's famous for bending its rod,
 I'd say replace that rod and hope you caught it quick enough so that
 cylinder still seals ok. If one cylinder out of six makes 95% of the power
 of the others, the engine as a whole shouldn't run too badly.

 Mitch.

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 --
 Kaleb C. Striplin/Claremore, OK
 95 E300, 92 500SEL, 92 300SD, 92 300E 4Matic, 91 300D, 91 300E, 89 560SEL,
 87 300SDL x2, 85 380SE 5.0 Euro, 85 190D, 84 190D, 84 300D euro manny, 81
 240D, 80 240D, 76 240D, 76 300D, http://www.okiebenz.com
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Re: [MBZ] Bore measurements on 140 SD

2009-10-12 Thread Jim Cathey

So far as I know, pistons/rods _always_ come out the top.

-- Jim



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Re: [MBZ] Bore measurements on 140 SD

2009-10-12 Thread dave walton
The replacement rod did not have tabs to allow easy weight adjustment.
It is significantly heaver than the original. I've since been told
that as long as #1 and #6 are balanced, it's okay if they are heaver
than the others. I'd want to very that somehow, but replacing the two
rods would save some grief. The dealer said if they did the job, they
would replace all the rods. I was not in the mood to spend $1k to
replace good parts at the time. But you could probably recoup some of
your investment selling the good old ones on eBay :-)

Once the rod was replaced, the piston extended above the block like
all the others.

Put some bar stock on the block across the cylinder opening. Use 2
magnetic bases. Mount the dial gauge between them on a crosspiece. Set
the gauge to zero on top of the bar in the middle. Highest reading
when the crank is rotated gives you a comparison number which relates
to connecting rod length.

-Dave Walton

On Mon, Oct 12, 2009 at 10:41 AM, dave walton walton.d...@gmail.com wrote:
 I did not see any way to drop the oil pan with the engine in the car.
 The front frame is directly under where you want to get to and can't
 be removed (without a torch or plasma cutter). If anyone knows how to
 avoid pulling the engine, please speak up.

 Once you get the oil pan off you can access the lower end of the
 connecting rod to replace it without pulling the crank.

 The transmission and engine come out as a unit.

 You will need a 2-ton shop crane. To access the center of gravity of
 the engine/transmission unit you need to extend the arm to it's
 maximum. The lift capacity goes down as the arm length goes up. Even
 with the Harbor Freight 2-ton crane maxed, the lift cylinder wanted to
 hit against the front bumper. If I had to do it again, I'd use a
 gantry crane on wheels.

 I was quoted $140 from the dealer for the replacement rod. They
 charged me $190 when it came in.

 -Dave Walton

 On Mon, Oct 12, 2009 at 9:55 AM, Kaleb C. Striplin ka...@striplin.net wrote:
 If I wanted to replace that one rod, I would have to pull the crank and
 everything wouldnt I?
 Mitch Haley wrote:

 Loren Faeth wrote:

 IMHO, you have a problem with a bent rod on #1.  It is bent enough so
 that I predict a short life after the engine is running again , if you 
 don't
 address the #1 rod at least.  Seems to me what you describe is in the
 neighborhood of 0.010 inch or so, (maybe more) and that is a problem.


 I concur. If five pistons stand proud of the block, and one piston is
 recessed, and you can detect that by feel, there's something wrong with that
 one cylinder.
 When you add to that the fact that the most worn cylinder is the same one
 with the short rod, and it's the cylinder that's famous for bending its rod,
 I'd say replace that rod and hope you caught it quick enough so that
 cylinder still seals ok. If one cylinder out of six makes 95% of the power
 of the others, the engine as a whole shouldn't run too badly.

 Mitch.

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[MBZ] a/c no worky

2009-10-12 Thread Karl Wittnebel

Hello All,
My 1985 123 wagon had a fully functional A/C until I used it one hot day last 
fall, when it kept the entire car of six people cool on a 100 degree LA day. No 
problems on that day whatsoever.

The following day, I loaned the car to my sister, who turned the A/C on and
, well, nothing but hot air. And the horn wouldn't work. I replaced the 
relevant fuse, which was blown, but the new fuse blew immediately.
Took it to mechanic (Algerian dude at Marina Benz) who replaced a bunch of 
stuff, including the control unit in the dash and apparently some relays. The 
compressor was fine. The bill was expensive, but it worked when I left. Briefly.
I used it on another hot day, and, well, you can guess what happened: worked 
fine that day, but the next time I turned it on: nothing but hot air. And no 
horn. Compressor clutch does not make any noises of engagement at all. Belt is 
fine.
Any hints as to where the trouble may lie? I don't miss the A/C but here in LA 
I really need the horn on the freeway...just thought I'd ask before throwing 
more money at the problem.
Also, for any CA locals, is this Enrique guy up in Tarzana the best mechanic in 
the area if I need a new one (which I apparently do)?
Regards,Karl in LA85 300TD 170Kmi

--- On Mon, 10/12/09, Jim Cathey j...@windwireless.net wrote:

From: Jim Cathey j...@windwireless.net
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Bore measurements on 140 SD
To: Mercedes Discussion List mercedes@okiebenz.com
Date: Monday, October 12, 2009, 10:50 AM

So far as I know, pistons/rods _always_ come out the top.

-- Jim



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Re: [MBZ] 1980 300SD

2009-10-12 Thread Craig McCluskey
On Mon, 12 Oct 2009 10:32:56 -0400 Mitch Haley m...@voyager.net wrote:

 I like the trike on page 2, but not enough to pay $70k for a replica.

I really like the next item on the list, the 1933 290 Cabriolet B. $175k
is a bit much for me, though.

The 1957 300Sc Cabriolet, black with red leather on page 3 is a wonder,
though (beyond the $750k price tag!): 0 miles?


Craig

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Re: [MBZ] Bore measurements on 140 SD

2009-10-12 Thread Craig McCluskey
On Mon, 12 Oct 2009 09:35:49 -0500 Kaleb C. Striplin
ka...@striplin.net wrote:

 Does anybody know if you can buy just 1 rod?  Will have to check with 
 Rusty I guess.

He's the man.


Craig

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Re: [MBZ] Bore measurements on 140 SD

2009-10-12 Thread Craig McCluskey
On Mon, 12 Oct 2009 09:27:01 -0500 Kaleb C. Striplin
ka...@striplin.net wrote:

 Will it remove out the top? I figured it would have to come out the
 bottom.

If you don't have a ridge at the top of the cylinder, it should. You might
need to use a ridge-breaker.


Craig

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Re: [MBZ] Bore measurements on 140 SD

2009-10-12 Thread dave walton
Piston comes out the top. I used the blade from my utility knife to
remove the crust around the inner top lip of the cylinder. It flaked
off easily once you got underneath it.

-Dave Walton

On Mon, Oct 12, 2009 at 11:03 AM, Craig McCluskey
diese...@pisquared.net wrote:
 On Mon, 12 Oct 2009 09:27:01 -0500 Kaleb C. Striplin
 ka...@striplin.net wrote:

 Will it remove out the top? I figured it would have to come out the
 bottom.

 If you don't have a ridge at the top of the cylinder, it should. You might
 need to use a ridge-breaker.


 Craig

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Re: [MBZ] Bore measurements on 140 SD

2009-10-12 Thread Mitch Haley

Jim Cathey wrote:

So far as I know, pistons/rods _always_ come out the top.


Except on motorcycles and chain saws.

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Re: [MBZ] W124 Motor Mounts

2009-10-12 Thread Kaleb C. Striplin
That is exactly what you do, no more complicated than the old ones, in 
fact, should be easier since they just have one bolt from the bottom, 
and one from the top.


LarryT wrote:
Hi Gang - 
I may need motor mounts on my '91 300D in the future (170k mi currently) and was wondering what the difficulty is?


   Anyway, can I raise the engine slightly and swap out the mounts?  They look to be more complex than the old rubber mounts - 


Thanks!
LarryT 
91 300D 



Does your business accept or need to
accept V/MC/AE/Dis?  We have the 
best rates  0% Interest Business loans.

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--
Kaleb C. Striplin/Claremore, OK
95 E300, 92 500SEL, 92 300SD, 92 300E 4Matic, 91 300D, 91 300E, 
89 560SEL, 87 300SDL x2, 85 380SE 5.0 Euro, 85 190D, 84 190D, 
84 300D euro manny, 81 240D, 80 240D, 76 240D, 76 300D, 
http://www.okiebenz.com



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Re: [MBZ] W124 Motor Mounts

2009-10-12 Thread LarryT

Thx Kaleb - you made my day. ;-)
LarryT

Does your business accept or need to
accept V/MC/AE/Dis?  We have the
best rates  0% Interest Business loans.
Visit: http://www.merchantreferralsolutions.com/A365706

--
From: Kaleb C. Striplin ka...@striplin.net
Sent: Monday, October 12, 2009 9:56 AM
To: Mercedes Discussion List mercedes@okiebenz.com
Subject: Re: [MBZ] W124 Motor Mounts

That is exactly what you do, no more complicated than the old ones, in 
fact, should be easier since they just have one bolt from the bottom, and 
one from the top.


LarryT wrote:
Hi Gang - I may need motor mounts on my '91 300D in the future (170k mi 
currently) and was wondering what the difficulty is?


   Anyway, can I raise the engine slightly and swap out the mounts? 
They look to be more complex than the old rubber mounts -

Thanks!
LarryT 91 300D

Does your business accept or need to
accept V/MC/AE/Dis?  We have the best rates  0% Interest Business loans.
Visit: http://www.merchantreferralsolutions.com/A365706
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--
Kaleb C. Striplin/Claremore, OK
95 E300, 92 500SEL, 92 300SD, 92 300E 4Matic, 91 300D, 91 300E, 89 560SEL, 
87 300SDL x2, 85 380SE 5.0 Euro, 85 190D, 84 190D, 84 300D euro manny, 81 
240D, 80 240D, 76 240D, 76 300D, http://www.okiebenz.com



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Re: [MBZ] 1980 300SD

2009-10-12 Thread LarryT
Yeah, as others have noted, the cars they are hoping to sell are pretty 
extraordinary examples - low miles and 100% restorations done - but  I would 
wonder if they could really get some of those prices - even at the high-end 
auctions - I guess somewhere in the world there's someone who wants a 1980 
300SD in like new condition!  I'd think they'd be more likely to get that 
kind of money for a W140 350SDL (with repaired engine) in pristine condition 
and very low miles.  That'd be my dream if I win the lottery ;-)


But those W116 chassis' were awesome cars...

LarryT
91 300D

Does your business accept or need to
accept V/MC/AE/Dis?  We have the
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--
From: Craig McCluskey diese...@pisquared.net
Sent: Monday, October 12, 2009 10:26 AM
To: Mercedes Discussion List mercedes@okiebenz.com
Subject: Re: [MBZ] 1980 300SD


On Mon, 12 Oct 2009 07:06:53 -0400 LarryT l02tur...@comcast.net wrote:


http://www.mypreownedmercedes.com/matrix.php?mbid=82970

Found this on the MB Classic website - a very nice 1980 300SD!


I had to go to page to to see it. Yes, indeed, it is very nice. 1327 miles
and virtually new. Price is in line with new as well, $65,000. A little
more than I can spend right now.


Craig

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Re: [MBZ] W124 Motor Mounts

2009-10-12 Thread LarryT

Hi Mitch -
   When I started doing work on this W124's engine I bought a set of allen 
wrenches that have little round shapes at the end - they can go into the 
screw at a slight angle and usually snap into place - I replaced the 
manifold gasket on the engine which had some bolts difficult to reach in a 
straight shot and these wrenches unscrewed them without any problem.


   I took a brief look at the motor mounts and Kaleb's comment appears to 
be spot-on!  They look to be easy to reach - even the one under the turbo 
shouldn't be too bad.  I need to check them to be sure they are bad - we're 
getting a lot of movement at idle once warmed up - but Rustys prices are 
pretty good - list is over $130 ea and he sells 3 different mounts - from 
$33 to $88 - now I need to find out if there's any difference between the 3 
...


Thx !
LarryT
91 300D

Does your business accept or need to
accept V/MC/AE/Dis?  We have the
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--
From: Mitch Haley m...@voyager.net
Sent: Monday, October 12, 2009 8:02 AM
To: Mercedes Discussion List mercedes@okiebenz.com
Subject: Re: [MBZ] W124 Motor Mounts


LarryT wrote:
Hi Gang - I may need motor mounts on my '91 300D in the future (170k mi 
currently) and was wondering what the difficulty is?


Haven't done it myself, but I would assume the chief difficulty is in 
cleaning the holes in the allen bolts and removing them without stripping 
the hex.


Mitch.

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Re: [MBZ] Bore measurements on 140 SD

2009-10-12 Thread LarryT

Don't know if this will help -
I bought a MB Technical Data manual after I bought my W124 - it includes 
info for the 140 - it says:


1. permissible deviation pf cy bores from cyl shape - New Value = 0.00 - 
0.014  wear limit 0.05.

and
2. wear in driving or transverse direction at upper reversing limit of 1st 
piston ring - 0.20 (diesel) 0.10 (Gas)


I'm sure these are in mm's.  It seems odd (to me) the gas a lower wear 
limit.


HTHs
LarryT
91 300D

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accept V/MC/AE/Dis?  We have the
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--
From: Mitch Haley m...@voyager.net
Sent: Monday, October 12, 2009 7:30 AM
To: Mercedes Discussion List mercedes@okiebenz.com
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Bore measurements on 140 SD


Loren Faeth wrote:


IMHO, you have a problem with a bent rod on #1.  It is bent enough so 
that I predict a short life after the engine is running again , if you 
don't address the #1 rod at least.  Seems to me what you describe is in 
the neighborhood of 0.010 inch or so, (maybe more) and that is a problem.




I concur. If five pistons stand proud of the block, and one piston is 
recessed, and you can detect that by feel, there's something wrong with 
that one cylinder.
When you add to that the fact that the most worn cylinder is the same one 
with the short rod, and it's the cylinder that's famous for bending its 
rod, I'd say replace that rod and hope you caught it quick enough so that 
cylinder still seals ok. If one cylinder out of six makes 95% of the power 
of the others, the engine as a whole shouldn't run too badly.


Mitch.

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Re: [MBZ] Bore measurements on 140 SD

2009-10-12 Thread LarryT

I've got a ridge reamer if you'd like to borrow it -

LarryT

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--
From: Craig McCluskey diese...@pisquared.net
Sent: Monday, October 12, 2009 11:03 AM
To: Mercedes Discussion List mercedes@okiebenz.com
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Bore measurements on 140 SD


On Mon, 12 Oct 2009 09:27:01 -0500 Kaleb C. Striplin
ka...@striplin.net wrote:


Will it remove out the top? I figured it would have to come out the
bottom.


If you don't have a ridge at the top of the cylinder, it should. You might
need to use a ridge-breaker.


Craig

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Re: [MBZ] a/c no worky

2009-10-12 Thread Craig McCluskey
On Mon, 12 Oct 2009 07:57:25 -0700 (PDT) Karl Wittnebel
kdwittne...@yahoo.com wrote:

 The following day, I loaned the car to my sister, who turned the A/C on
 and , well, nothing but hot air. And the horn wouldn't work. I replaced
 the relevant fuse, which was blown, but the new fuse blew immediately.
 Took it to mechanic (Algerian dude at Marina Benz) who replaced a bunch
 of stuff, including the control unit in the dash and apparently some
 relays. The compressor was fine. The bill was expensive, but it worked
 when I left. Briefly. I used it on another hot day, and, well, you can
 guess what happened: worked fine that day, but the next time I turned it
 on: nothing but hot air. And no horn. Compressor clutch does not make
 any noises of engagement at all. Belt is fine. Any hints as to where the
 trouble may lie? I don't miss the A/C but here in LA I really need the
 horn on the freeway...just thought I'd ask before throwing more money at
 the problem. 

If the fuse that powers the compressor clutch is blown, it won't try to
engage even if the controller does send the signal to engage. Does the
horn work when you put in a new fuse, before you try the A/C? If it does,
disconnect the wire for the clutch magnet and try turning the A/C on. If
the horn still works, turn the car off, reconnect the magnet wire, and try
the A/C again. If the fuse has now blown, the clutch magnet is the
problem.

It sounds like the Algerian dude threw parts at the control side of the
problem. It also sounds like that was not the problem. I agree that you
need a new mechanic.

As a first guess, I'd say that the windings on the compressor clutch
magnet might be shorted (at least partially). You could get the
pulley/clutch assembly off a salvage yard car and try it.


Craig


P.S. Welcome to the list, Karl.

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Re: [MBZ] W124 Motor Mounts

2009-10-12 Thread Allan Streib
On Mon, 12 Oct 2009 12:05 -0400, LarryT l02tur...@comcast.net wrote:

 I took a brief look at the motor mounts and Kaleb's comment
 appears to be spot-on!  They look to be easy to reach - even the
 one under the turbo shouldn't be too bad.  I need to check them to
 be sure they are bad - we're getting a lot of movement at idle
 once warmed up - but Rustys prices are pretty good - list is over
 $130 ea and he sells 3 different mounts - from $33 to $88 - now I
 need to find out if there's any difference between the 3

There is.  One of them, FEQ I think, is a lower quality chinese product.

Allan
--
1983 300D


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Re: [MBZ] a/c no worky

2009-10-12 Thread Rich Thomas
You might also want to check the low-pressure cutout switch that (if I 
recall) is located down low in front of the right fender next to the 
radiator.  If that has gone bad/funky nothing will come on.  You could 
just short it and see if things come on.  Probably doesn't relate to the 
horn aspect, but its an easy check.


--R

Craig McCluskey wrote:

On Mon, 12 Oct 2009 07:57:25 -0700 (PDT) Karl Wittnebel
kdwittne...@yahoo.com wrote:

  

The following day, I loaned the car to my sister, who turned the A/C on
and , well, nothing but hot air. And the horn wouldn't work. I replaced
the relevant fuse, which was blown, but the new fuse blew immediately.
Took it to mechanic (Algerian dude at Marina Benz) who replaced a bunch
of stuff, including the control unit in the dash and apparently some
relays. The compressor was fine. The bill was expensive, but it worked
when I left. Briefly. I used it on another hot day, and, well, you can
guess what happened: worked fine that day, but the next time I turned it
on: nothing but hot air. And no horn. Compressor clutch does not make
any noises of engagement at all. Belt is fine. Any hints as to where the
trouble may lie? I don't miss the A/C but here in LA I really need the
horn on the freeway...just thought I'd ask before throwing more money at
the problem. 



If the fuse that powers the compressor clutch is blown, it won't try to
engage even if the controller does send the signal to engage. Does the
horn work when you put in a new fuse, before you try the A/C? If it does,
disconnect the wire for the clutch magnet and try turning the A/C on. If
the horn still works, turn the car off, reconnect the magnet wire, and try
the A/C again. If the fuse has now blown, the clutch magnet is the
problem.

It sounds like the Algerian dude threw parts at the control side of the
problem. It also sounds like that was not the problem. I agree that you
need a new mechanic.

As a first guess, I'd say that the windings on the compressor clutch
magnet might be shorted (at least partially). You could get the
pulley/clutch assembly off a salvage yard car and try it.


Craig


P.S. Welcome to the list, Karl.

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Re: [MBZ] MB Classic

2009-10-12 Thread RELNGSON
 ...Found this on the MB Classic website ..
 
Speaking of MB Classic, the new issue on the newsstand contains a picture 
article on 600 hydraulic components. Terrifying. 

It show contains a pic of the master window controller on the driver's 
door. $2500 Euros. A bargain compared to the heater control panel which I was 
told costs about ten grand. Apparently squirting it with contact cleaner 
doesn't help much.

The article has a few things to say about the hydraulic system in general, 
stating that if there are no leaks, system pressure is expected to hold for 
at least several years without leakdown.

No wonder Hugh Hefner has put his two 600s on the market.

RLE
 
 

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[MBZ] Eco-friendly wheels

2009-10-12 Thread Mitch Haley

http://pics.nerdnirvana.org/d/21293-2/car-wooden-wheels.jpg

Oh, and Batman says hi:
http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=55952stc=1d=1252882055

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Re: [MBZ] Eco-friendly wheels

2009-10-12 Thread Bill R
I should think traction, especially if the need for hard breaking were to
arise, would be a big problem - not to mention ride quality.  I would expect
the second pic would be repeated with the first car very soon.
Bill

-Original Message-
From: mercedes-boun...@okiebenz.com [mailto:mercedes-boun...@okiebenz.com]
On Behalf Of Mitch Haley
Sent: Monday, October 12, 2009 3:00 PM
To: Mercedes Discussion List
Subject: [MBZ] Eco-friendly wheels

http://pics.nerdnirvana.org/d/21293-2/car-wooden-wheels.jpg

Oh, and Batman says hi:
http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=55952stc=1;
d=1252882055

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Re: [MBZ] W124 Motor Mounts

2009-10-12 Thread LarryT

Hi Allan -
Yup, FEQ is the $33 MM with a MM by Corteco is $88 and another by Rein goes 
for $70.


Do you think I'd be safe with the $70 MM or should I spring for the $88.  I 
don't mind paying for quality - but if the same quality is available for $33 
or $70 I always like to save a little money -


Thanks for the input!!

LarryT
91 300D


Does your business accept or need to
accept V/MC/AE/Dis?  We have the
best rates  0% Interest Business loans.
Visit: http://www.merchantreferralsolutions.com/A365706

--
From: Allan Streib str...@cs.indiana.edu
Sent: Monday, October 12, 2009 1:27 PM
To: Mercedes Discussion List mercedes@okiebenz.com
Subject: Re: [MBZ] W124 Motor Mounts


On Mon, 12 Oct 2009 12:05 -0400, LarryT l02tur...@comcast.net wrote:


I took a brief look at the motor mounts and Kaleb's comment
appears to be spot-on!  They look to be easy to reach - even the
one under the turbo shouldn't be too bad.  I need to check them to
be sure they are bad - we're getting a lot of movement at idle
once warmed up - but Rustys prices are pretty good - list is over
$130 ea and he sells 3 different mounts - from $33 to $88 - now I
need to find out if there's any difference between the 3


There is.  One of them, FEQ I think, is a lower quality chinese product.

Allan
--
1983 300D


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Re: [MBZ] W124 Motor Mounts

2009-10-12 Thread Mitch Haley

LarryT wrote:

Hi Allan -
Yup, FEQ is the $33 MM with a MM by Corteco is $88 and another by Rein 
goes for $70.


Hopefully Gary or Rusty will chime in here. I scarcely even recognize the names. 
 (but Corteco sounds kind of familiar)

Whatever happened to Febi and Lemforder?

Mitch.

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Re: [MBZ] Eco-friendly wheels

2009-10-12 Thread Craig McCluskey
On Mon, 12 Oct 2009 15:06:45 -0400 Bill R billr32...@comcast.net
wrote:

 I should think traction, especially if the need for hard breaking were
 to arise, would be a big problem - not to mention ride quality.  I would
 expect the second pic would be repeated with the first car very soon.
 Bill

I would think that even with ordinary driving the wheels would crack and
disintegrate, leaving you stranded and the car's body sitting on the
ground.

Notice all the wood chips in the area. The car probably has moved an inch
on its new wheels.


Craig

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Re: [MBZ] Eco-friendly wheels

2009-10-12 Thread Craig McCluskey
On Mon, 12 Oct 2009 13:59:07 -0600 Craig McCluskey
diese...@pisquared.net wrote:

 On Mon, 12 Oct 2009 15:06:45 -0400 Bill R billr32...@comcast.net
 wrote:
 
  I should think traction, especially if the need for hard breaking were
  to arise, would be a big problem - not to mention ride quality.  I
  would expect the second pic would be repeated with the first car very
  soon. Bill
 
 I would think that even with ordinary driving the wheels would crack and
 disintegrate, leaving you stranded and the car's body sitting on the
 ground.
 
 Notice all the wood chips in the area. The car probably has moved an
 inch on its new wheels.

That should have been, has NOT moved an inch.


Craig

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Re: [MBZ] a/c no worky

2009-10-12 Thread Karl Wittnebel
Ha - I initially thought the clutch might be an issue, but got talked out of 
it. I'll replace the fuse and check the horn etc. to isolate the clutch and see 
what transpires.

I think that low pressure relay was replaced by the mechanic but I'll check 
over the bill and see.

Thanks for the hints; will keep list posted until I get the issue resolved.

Karl

--- On Mon, 10/12/09, Rich Thomas richthomas79td...@constructivity.net wrote:

From: Rich Thomas richthomas79td...@constructivity.net
Subject: Re: [MBZ] a/c no worky
To: Mercedes Discussion List mercedes@okiebenz.com
Date: Monday, October 12, 2009, 1:31 PM

You might also want to check the low-pressure cutout switch that (if I 
recall) is located down low in front of the right fender next to the 
radiator.  If that has gone bad/funky nothing will come on.  You could 
just short it and see if things come on.  Probably doesn't relate to the 
horn aspect, but its an easy check.

--R

Craig McCluskey wrote:
 On Mon, 12 Oct 2009 07:57:25 -0700 (PDT) Karl Wittnebel
 kdwittne...@yahoo.com wrote:

   
 The following day, I loaned the car to my sister, who turned the A/C on
 and , well, nothing but hot air. And the horn wouldn't work. I replaced
 the relevant fuse, which was blown, but the new fuse blew immediately.
 Took it to mechanic (Algerian dude at Marina Benz) who replaced a bunch
 of stuff, including the control unit in the dash and apparently some
 relays. The compressor was fine. The bill was expensive, but it worked
 when I left. Briefly. I used it on another hot day, and, well, you can
 guess what happened: worked fine that day, but the next time I turned it
 on: nothing but hot air. And no horn. Compressor clutch does not make
 any noises of engagement at all. Belt is fine. Any hints as to where the
 trouble may lie? I don't miss the A/C but here in LA I really need the
 horn on the freeway...just thought I'd ask before throwing more money at
 the problem. 
     

 If the fuse that powers the compressor clutch is blown, it won't try to
 engage even if the controller does send the signal to engage. Does the
 horn work when you put in a new fuse, before you try the A/C? If it does,
 disconnect the wire for the clutch magnet and try turning the A/C on. If
 the horn still works, turn the car off, reconnect the magnet wire, and try
 the A/C again. If the fuse has now blown, the clutch magnet is the
 problem.

 It sounds like the Algerian dude threw parts at the control side of the
 problem. It also sounds like that was not the problem. I agree that you
 need a new mechanic.

 As a first guess, I'd say that the windings on the compressor clutch
 magnet might be shorted (at least partially). You could get the
 pulley/clutch assembly off a salvage yard car and try it.


 Craig


 P.S. Welcome to the list, Karl.

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Re: [MBZ] a/c no worky

2009-10-12 Thread Mitch Haley
Any chance the problem is in the horn circuitry, or even the contacts/wiring in 
the steering column?


Mitch.

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Re: [MBZ] MB Classic

2009-10-12 Thread Rich Thomas
By this point Hugh Hefner is probably an expert on hydraulics and leak 
down of pressurized components.


--R

relng...@aol.com wrote:

...Found this on the MB Classic website ..


Speaking of MB Classic, the new issue on the newsstand contains a picture 
article on 600 hydraulic components. Terrifying. 

It show contains a pic of the master window controller on the driver's 
door. $2500 Euros. A bargain compared to the heater control panel which I was 
told costs about ten grand. Apparently squirting it with contact cleaner 
doesn't help much.


The article has a few things to say about the hydraulic system in general, 
stating that if there are no leaks, system pressure is expected to hold for 
at least several years without leakdown.


No wonder Hugh Hefner has put his two 600s on the market.

RLE
  



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[MBZ] She's a strong one

2009-10-12 Thread Rich Thomas

http://charleston.craigslist.org/tls/1416688871.html

--R

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[MBZ] 1984 Mercedes Benz 300D - $2500 (Old Lyme, Ct)

2009-10-12 Thread Rich Thomas

http://charleston.craigslist.org/cto/1417104259.html

1984 Mercedes Benz 300 Turbo Diesel. 1 owner, total maintenance history, 
always garaged, 220,000 miles, great condition. AC does not work, needs 
new exhaust pipe, otherwise drives great, no major problems.


Not sure how this got on the Charleston list, but here ya go... might be 
a nice car.


--R
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[MBZ] The cheapest LeSharo I've ever seen...

2009-10-12 Thread Mitch Haley

If these things were RWD, I'd strongly consider buying it for a MBZ repower.
http://lansing.craigslist.org/rvs/1416022103.html

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[MBZ] OT The dangers of a guy with a welder

2009-10-12 Thread Rich Thomas

http://sites.google.com/site/kenymarshall/Home/work-in-progess

--R

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Re: [MBZ] The cheapest LeSharo I've ever seen...

2009-10-12 Thread Rich Thomas
a 2.2 liter Renault engine to haul that thing around?  Perhaps you could 
drop in a 240D engine.


--R

Mitch Haley wrote:
If these things were RWD, I'd strongly consider buying it for a MBZ 
repower.

http://lansing.craigslist.org/rvs/1416022103.html

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Re: [MBZ] The cheapest LeSharo I've ever seen...

2009-10-12 Thread Mitch Haley

Rich Thomas wrote:
a 2.2 liter Renault engine to haul that thing around?  Perhaps you could 
drop in a 240D engine.


Sideways, hooked up to a transaxle?
I know we had somebody here (or maybe on mbz.org) who thought it would be no big 
deal to convert one to RWD, but not me. Best I can think of is TDI power, which 
would be a step up only because the Renault diesel was pretty useless.


I'd love for somebody to put a Vixen with a blown motor up for sale at $500. I'd 
put a OM603 or 606 in that. I've been finding Vixens with freshly rebuilt or new 
BMW 2.4s in them for $12-15k, but no dead ones so far. I think a 350hp 'crazy 
Finn' Vixen would be the perfect motorhome.


Mitch.

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Re: [MBZ] Bore measurements on 140 SD

2009-10-12 Thread LarryT
Ditto - except for things like VW and Porsche where the cylinder comes off 
1st -


I suspect if Kaleb looks closely he'll see there is no way a piston can come 
out of the bottom.


Man!  It sounds like pulling the engine and tranny is a bear!

LarryT

Does your business accept or need to
accept V/MC/AE/Dis?  We have the
best rates  0% Interest Business loans.
Visit: http://www.merchantreferralsolutions.com/A365706

--
From: Jim Cathey j...@windwireless.net
Sent: Monday, October 12, 2009 10:50 AM
To: Mercedes Discussion List mercedes@okiebenz.com
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Bore measurements on 140 SD


So far as I know, pistons/rods _always_ come out the top.

-- Jim



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Re: [MBZ] Bore measurements on 140 SD

2009-10-12 Thread LarryT

Hi Dave,
   I've sen MB recommend the engine/tranny come out as a unit before (back 
in the late 60s) but that was mostly because of the difficult keeping the 
torque converter fully engaged in  the primary pump of the transmission.  A 
work around is to undo the fasteners holding the TC onto the engine (they 
were exposed in the 69 280SE I had) allowing the rear plate to separate from 
the TC and the TC stay with the transmission.  My 240D came apart the same 
way -


   But the 140 may be entirely different  - if there's no opening in the 
engine to transmission plate to allow access to the bolts attaching the rear 
plate (shaped like a triangle)  to the TC you must do as MB says..


   Good luck -
LarryT
91 300D

Does your business accept or need to
accept V/MC/AE/Dis?  We have the
best rates  0% Interest Business loans.
Visit: http://www.merchantreferralsolutions.com/A365706

--
From: dave walton walton.d...@gmail.com
Sent: Monday, October 12, 2009 10:41 AM
To: Mercedes Discussion List mercedes@okiebenz.com
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Bore measurements on 140 SD


I did not see any way to drop the oil pan with the engine in the car.
The front frame is directly under where you want to get to and can't
be removed (without a torch or plasma cutter). If anyone knows how to
avoid pulling the engine, please speak up.

Once you get the oil pan off you can access the lower end of the
connecting rod to replace it without pulling the crank.

The transmission and engine come out as a unit.

You will need a 2-ton shop crane. To access the center of gravity of
the engine/transmission unit you need to extend the arm to it's
maximum. The lift capacity goes down as the arm length goes up. Even
with the Harbor Freight 2-ton crane maxed, the lift cylinder wanted to
hit against the front bumper. If I had to do it again, I'd use a
gantry crane on wheels.

I was quoted $140 from the dealer for the replacement rod. They
charged me $190 when it came in.

-Dave Walton

On Mon, Oct 12, 2009 at 9:55 AM, Kaleb C. Striplin ka...@striplin.net 
wrote:

If I wanted to replace that one rod, I would have to pull the crank and
everything wouldnt I?
Mitch Haley wrote:


Loren Faeth wrote:


IMHO, you have a problem with a bent rod on #1.  It is bent enough so
that I predict a short life after the engine is running again , if you 
don't

address the #1 rod at least.  Seems to me what you describe is in the
neighborhood of 0.010 inch or so, (maybe more) and that is a problem.



I concur. If five pistons stand proud of the block, and one piston is
recessed, and you can detect that by feel, there's something wrong with 
that

one cylinder.
When you add to that the fact that the most worn cylinder is the same 
one
with the short rod, and it's the cylinder that's famous for bending its 
rod,

I'd say replace that rod and hope you caught it quick enough so that
cylinder still seals ok. If one cylinder out of six makes 95% of the 
power

of the others, the engine as a whole shouldn't run too badly.

Mitch.

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--
Kaleb C. Striplin/Claremore, OK
95 E300, 92 500SEL, 92 300SD, 92 300E 4Matic, 91 300D, 91 300E, 89 
560SEL,

87 300SDL x2, 85 380SE 5.0 Euro, 85 190D, 84 190D, 84 300D euro manny, 81
240D, 80 240D, 76 240D, 76 300D, http://www.okiebenz.com
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Re: [MBZ] OT The dangers of a guy with a welder

2009-10-12 Thread Craig McCluskey
On Mon, 12 Oct 2009 17:21:56 -0400 Rich Thomas
richthomas79td...@constructivity.net wrote:

 http://sites.google.com/site/kenymarshall/Home/work-in-progess

I'm not quite sure what he intends to end up with, so I don't see the
point.


Craig

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Re: [MBZ] The cheapest LeSharo I've ever seen...

2009-10-12 Thread LWB250
If I didn't still have a confidentiality agreement in force I could tell you 
stories about these things that would make your toes curl.
A Deer Shanny would be the best application of this thing I can think of.  
The deer would probably enjoy it.

Dan

--- On Mon, 10/12/09, Mitch Haley m...@voyager.net wrote:

From: Mitch Haley m...@voyager.net
Subject: [MBZ] The cheapest LeSharo I've ever seen...
To: Mercedes Discussion List mercedes@okiebenz.com
Date: Monday, October 12, 2009, 5:11 PM

If these things were RWD, I'd strongly consider buying it for a MBZ repower.
http://lansing.craigslist.org/rvs/1416022103.html

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Re: [MBZ] The cheapest LeSharo I've ever seen...

2009-10-12 Thread Mitch Haley

LWB250 wrote:

If I didn't still have a confidentiality agreement in force I could tell you 
stories about these things that would make your toes curl.



2.2 Frenchy motors, or LeSharo-Phasar-Centauri?

Mitch.

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Re: [MBZ] The cheapest LeSharo I've ever seen...

2009-10-12 Thread Alex Chamberlain
On Mon, Oct 12, 2009 at 2:31 PM, Mitch Haley m...@voyager.net wrote:
 Rich Thomas wrote:

 a 2.2 liter Renault engine to haul that thing around?  Perhaps you could
 drop in a 240D engine.

 Sideways, hooked up to a transaxle?


I'm too lazy to Google it, but I know more than one Northstar V-8 from
a FWD Cadillac has been dropped into a Delorean, and I seem to
remember the same engine and transaxle being involved in a one-off
Tucker Torpedo replica.  Should be easier to put it in a vehicle with
the expected drive wheels rather than a rear-engine/RWD one.

Alex

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Re: [MBZ] Bore measurements on 140 SD

2009-10-12 Thread Kaleb C. Striplin
Did you just replace one rod on your car?  I do not remember this story, 
so what were the details?


dave walton wrote:

I did not see any way to drop the oil pan with the engine in the car.
The front frame is directly under where you want to get to and can't
be removed (without a torch or plasma cutter). If anyone knows how to
avoid pulling the engine, please speak up.

Once you get the oil pan off you can access the lower end of the
connecting rod to replace it without pulling the crank.

The transmission and engine come out as a unit.

You will need a 2-ton shop crane. To access the center of gravity of
the engine/transmission unit you need to extend the arm to it's
maximum. The lift capacity goes down as the arm length goes up. Even
with the Harbor Freight 2-ton crane maxed, the lift cylinder wanted to
hit against the front bumper. If I had to do it again, I'd use a
gantry crane on wheels.

I was quoted $140 from the dealer for the replacement rod. They
charged me $190 when it came in.

-Dave Walton

On Mon, Oct 12, 2009 at 9:55 AM, Kaleb C. Striplin ka...@striplin.net wrote:
  

If I wanted to replace that one rod, I would have to pull the crank and
everything wouldnt I?
Mitch Haley wrote:


Loren Faeth wrote:
  

IMHO, you have a problem with a bent rod on #1.  It is bent enough so
that I predict a short life after the engine is running again , if you don't
address the #1 rod at least.  Seems to me what you describe is in the
neighborhood of 0.010 inch or so, (maybe more) and that is a problem.



I concur. If five pistons stand proud of the block, and one piston is
recessed, and you can detect that by feel, there's something wrong with that
one cylinder.
When you add to that the fact that the most worn cylinder is the same one
with the short rod, and it's the cylinder that's famous for bending its rod,
I'd say replace that rod and hope you caught it quick enough so that
cylinder still seals ok. If one cylinder out of six makes 95% of the power
of the others, the engine as a whole shouldn't run too badly.

Mitch.

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--
Kaleb C. Striplin/Claremore, OK
95 E300, 92 500SEL, 92 300SD, 92 300E 4Matic, 91 300D, 91 300E, 89 560SEL,
87 300SDL x2, 85 380SE 5.0 Euro, 85 190D, 84 190D, 84 300D euro manny, 81
240D, 80 240D, 76 240D, 76 300D, http://www.okiebenz.com
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--
Kaleb C. Striplin/Claremore, OK
95 E300, 92 500SEL, 92 300SD, 92 300E 4Matic, 91 300D, 91 300E, 
89 560SEL, 87 300SDL x2, 85 380SE 5.0 Euro, 85 190D, 84 190D, 
84 300D euro manny, 81 240D, 80 240D, 76 240D, 76 300D, 
http://www.okiebenz.com


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Re: [MBZ] Bore measurements on 140 SD

2009-10-12 Thread Kaleb C. Striplin
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Re: [MBZ] Bore measurements on 140 SD

2009-10-12 Thread Kaleb C. Striplin

got ya

dave walton wrote:

Piston comes out the top. I used the blade from my utility knife to
remove the crust around the inner top lip of the cylinder. It flaked
off easily once you got underneath it.

-Dave Walton

On Mon, Oct 12, 2009 at 11:03 AM, Craig McCluskey
diese...@pisquared.net wrote:
  

On Mon, 12 Oct 2009 09:27:01 -0500 Kaleb C. Striplin
ka...@striplin.net wrote:



Will it remove out the top? I figured it would have to come out the
bottom.
  

If you don't have a ridge at the top of the cylinder, it should. You might
need to use a ridge-breaker.


Craig

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--
Kaleb C. Striplin/Claremore, OK
95 E300, 92 500SEL, 92 300SD, 92 300E 4Matic, 91 300D, 91 300E, 
89 560SEL, 87 300SDL x2, 85 380SE 5.0 Euro, 85 190D, 84 190D, 
84 300D euro manny, 81 240D, 80 240D, 76 240D, 76 300D, 
http://www.okiebenz.com


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Re: [MBZ] The cheapest LeSharo I've ever seen...

2009-10-12 Thread LWB250
Work for a supplier to Winnebago for the product line.  And I'm almost 
embarrassed to admit that.  That we supplied product to Winnebago, that is.
Dan

--- On Mon, 10/12/09, Mitch Haley m...@voyager.net wrote:

From: Mitch Haley m...@voyager.net
Subject: Re: [MBZ] The cheapest LeSharo I've ever seen...
To: Mercedes Discussion List mercedes@okiebenz.com
Date: Monday, October 12, 2009, 7:13 PM

LWB250 wrote:
 If I didn't still have a confidentiality agreement in force I could tell you 
 stories about these things that would make your toes curl.


2.2 Frenchy motors, or LeSharo-Phasar-Centauri?

Mitch.

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Re: [MBZ] W124 Motor Mounts

2009-10-12 Thread Kaleb C. Striplin
Like I said, I always though they were easier since you did not have to 
mess with those 2 little allen bolts up top, its just one big center hex 
bolt.


LarryT wrote:

Hi Mitch -
   When I started doing work on this W124's engine I bought a set of 
allen wrenches that have little round shapes at the end - they can go 
into the screw at a slight angle and usually snap into place - I 
replaced the manifold gasket on the engine which had some bolts 
difficult to reach in a straight shot and these wrenches unscrewed 
them without any problem.


   I took a brief look at the motor mounts and Kaleb's comment appears 
to be spot-on!  They look to be easy to reach - even the one under the 
turbo shouldn't be too bad.  I need to check them to be sure they are 
bad - we're getting a lot of movement at idle once warmed up - but 
Rustys prices are pretty good - list is over $130 ea and he sells 3 
different mounts - from $33 to $88 - now I need to find out if there's 
any difference between the 3 ...


Thx !
LarryT
91 300D



--
Kaleb C. Striplin/Claremore, OK
95 E300, 92 500SEL, 92 300SD, 92 300E 4Matic, 91 300D, 91 300E, 
89 560SEL, 87 300SDL x2, 85 380SE 5.0 Euro, 85 190D, 84 190D, 
84 300D euro manny, 81 240D, 80 240D, 76 240D, 76 300D, 
http://www.okiebenz.com



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[MBZ] wtf?

2009-10-12 Thread Kaleb C. Striplin

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Mercedes-Benz-200-Series-280-SEL-1972-mercedes-280-SEL-4-5_W0QQitemZ110443183369QQcmdZViewItemQQptZUS_Cars_Trucks?hash=item19b6ed3d09

--
Kaleb C. Striplin/Claremore, OK
95 E300, 92 500SEL, 92 300SD, 92 300E 4Matic, 91 300D, 91 300E, 
89 560SEL, 87 300SDL x2, 85 380SE 5.0 Euro, 85 190D, 84 190D, 
84 300D euro manny, 81 240D, 80 240D, 76 240D, 76 300D, 
http://www.okiebenz.com

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Re: [MBZ] Bore measurements on 140 SD

2009-10-12 Thread Kaleb C. Striplin

I probably need to have one anyway.

LarryT wrote:

I've got a ridge reamer if you'd like to borrow it -

LarryT



--
Kaleb C. Striplin/Claremore, OK
95 E300, 92 500SEL, 92 300SD, 92 300E 4Matic, 91 300D, 91 300E, 
89 560SEL, 87 300SDL x2, 85 380SE 5.0 Euro, 85 190D, 84 190D, 
84 300D euro manny, 81 240D, 80 240D, 76 240D, 76 300D, 
http://www.okiebenz.com



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Re: [MBZ] 1984 Mercedes Benz 300D - $2500 (Old Lyme, Ct)

2009-10-12 Thread Dwight E. Giles, Jr
It got on the Charleston list because it didn't sell on CT. list-IIRC-it has
some issues. That Is plenty of money for needing an exhaust too and no AC. 

Dwight E. Giles, Jr.
1978 240D 4 speed. 218K + miles.  
1990 300D 2.5t 170K miles.
Wickford, RI

-Original Message-
From: mercedes-boun...@okiebenz.com [mailto:mercedes-boun...@okiebenz.com]
On Behalf Of Rich Thomas
Sent: Monday, October 12, 2009 5:03 PM
To: Mercedes Discussion List
Subject: [MBZ] 1984 Mercedes Benz 300D - $2500 (Old Lyme, Ct)

http://charleston.craigslist.org/cto/1417104259.html

1984 Mercedes Benz 300 Turbo Diesel. 1 owner, total maintenance history, 
always garaged, 220,000 miles, great condition. AC does not work, needs 
new exhaust pipe, otherwise drives great, no major problems.

Not sure how this got on the Charleston list, but here ya go... might be 
a nice car.

--R


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Re: [MBZ] Eco-friendly wheels

2009-10-12 Thread OK Don
Maybe they are the snow wheels? Might last a bit longer than on pavement -
though not much ---

On Mon, Oct 12, 2009 at 2:06 PM, Bill R billr32...@comcast.net wrote:

 I should think traction, especially if the need for hard breaking were to
 arise, would be a big problem - not to mention ride quality.  I would
 expect
 the second pic would be repeated with the first car very soon.
 Bill

 -Original Message-
 From: mercedes-boun...@okiebenz.com [mailto:mercedes-boun...@okiebenz.com]
 On Behalf Of Mitch Haley
 Sent: Monday, October 12, 2009 3:00 PM
 To: Mercedes Discussion List
 Subject: [MBZ] Eco-friendly wheels

 http://pics.nerdnirvana.org/d/21293-2/car-wooden-wheels.jpg


 --
 OK Don
 CONSERVATIVE, n.  A statesman who is enamored of existing evils, as
 distinguished from the Liberal, who wishes to replace them with
 others.
 The Devil's Dictionary
 Ambrose Bierce


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Re: [MBZ] W124 Motor Mounts

2009-10-12 Thread OK Don
Yup - I replaced them on the '90 300D 2.5T immediately after buying it.
Definatly easier than the earlier type.

On Mon, Oct 12, 2009 at 6:23 PM, Kaleb C. Striplin ka...@striplin.netwrote:

 Like I said, I always though they were easier since you did not have to
 mess with those 2 little allen bolts up top, its just one big center hex
 bolt.

 --
 OK Don
 CONSERVATIVE, n.  A statesman who is enamored of existing evils, as
 distinguished from the Liberal, who wishes to replace them with
 others.
 The Devil's Dictionary
 Ambrose Bierce


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Re: [MBZ] Bore measurements on 140 SD

2009-10-12 Thread Kaleb C. Striplin
You always pull the engine/trans together, at least in any MB I have 
ever worked on.  I can have that engine out in about an hour or less 
probably, so that is not THAT big of a deal, but I really dont want to 
mess with it.  Guess I will have to though.


LarryT wrote:

Hi Dave,
   I've sen MB recommend the engine/tranny come out as a unit before 
(back in the late 60s) but that was mostly because of the difficult 
keeping the torque converter fully engaged in  the primary pump of the 
transmission.  A work around is to undo the fasteners holding the TC 
onto the engine (they were exposed in the 69 280SE I had) allowing the 
rear plate to separate from the TC and the TC stay with the 
transmission.  My 240D came apart the same way -


   But the 140 may be entirely different  - if there's no opening in 
the engine to transmission plate to allow access to the bolts 
attaching the rear plate (shaped like a triangle)  to the TC you must 
do as MB says..


   Good luck -
LarryT
91 300D


--
Kaleb C. Striplin/Claremore, OK
95 E300, 92 500SEL, 92 300SD, 92 300E 4Matic, 91 300D, 91 300E, 
89 560SEL, 87 300SDL x2, 85 380SE 5.0 Euro, 85 190D, 84 190D, 
84 300D euro manny, 81 240D, 80 240D, 76 240D, 76 300D, 
http://www.okiebenz.com

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Re: [MBZ] wtf?

2009-10-12 Thread Rolf Martin-Hoster

Kaleb C. Striplin wrote:
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Mercedes-Benz-200-Series-280-SEL-1972-mercedes-280-SEL-4-5_W0QQitemZ110443183369QQcmdZViewItemQQptZUS_Cars_Trucks?hash=item19b6ed3d09 




That is one sweet ride.

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Re: [MBZ] Bore measurements on 140 SD

2009-10-12 Thread Loren Faeth
the proper tool is a ridge reamer.  If you can see the crosshatching, 
you really don't need a ridge reamer though.  In that case, cleaning 
off the carbon with a knife should work, but don't scrape below the 
carbon ring into the travelled part of the bore.



At 06:21 PM 10/12/2009, you wrote:

got ya

dave walton wrote:

Piston comes out the top. I used the blade from my utility knife to
remove the crust around the inner top lip of the cylinder. It flaked
off easily once you got underneath it.

-Dave Walton

On Mon, Oct 12, 2009 at 11:03 AM, Craig McCluskey
diese...@pisquared.net wrote:


On Mon, 12 Oct 2009 09:27:01 -0500 Kaleb C. Striplin
ka...@striplin.net wrote:



Will it remove out the top? I figured it would have to come out the
bottom.


If you don't have a ridge at the top of the cylinder, it should. You might
need to use a ridge-breaker.


Craig

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--
Kaleb C. Striplin/Claremore, OK
95 E300, 92 500SEL, 92 300SD, 92 300E 4Matic, 91 300D, 91 300E, 89 
560SEL, 87 300SDL x2, 85 380SE 5.0 Euro, 85 190D, 84 190D, 84 300D 
euro manny, 81 240D, 80 240D, 76 240D, 76 300D, http://www.okiebenz.com


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Loren Faeth 



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[MBZ] 126 trailer hitch

2009-10-12 Thread Loren Faeth
Does anyone have plans for a 126 (2nd version) trailer 
hitch?  Specifically 87 SDLI remember discussion and plans for a 
TD trailer hitch a few years ago.


Loren Faeth 



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Re: [MBZ] Bore measurements on 140 SD

2009-10-12 Thread OK Don
I did RR the pan in the 126 300SDL - in the car. It would not be possible
without removing the drag link and steering shock combo though. SInce mine
were crushed in the fall with the oil pan, they were coming out anyway. I
beleive that you could RR the #1 rod, from what I remember, once the pan is
off.
OR - you could replace that block with the earlier 603, and use the head
from that engine, and not have to worry aboput it at all 

On Mon, Oct 12, 2009 at 9:27 AM, Kaleb C. Striplin ka...@striplin.netwrote:

 I think its got the same pan as all the other 603's do, which is a 1 piece
 I believe.

 Loren Faeth wrote:

  On the older Diesels, the smaall steel pan could be removed, engine in
 car, to service #1 and the oil pump.  I have never seen a 603/140
 combination, so I don't know what you are up against.  If it has a one piece
 pan, you will have to pull the engine.  At that time, you may want to use
 your weird 603, or repair the original.

 At 09:04 AM 10/12/2009, you wrote:

 I don't know if you can get away with pulling just the lower pan to do #1
 or not.



 --
 OK Don
 CONSERVATIVE, n.  A statesman who is enamored of existing evils, as
 distinguished from the Liberal, who wishes to replace them with
 others.
 The Devil's Dictionary
 Ambrose Bierce


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[MBZ] [Fwd: Convert used Motor Oil into black diesel (In your back yard)]

2009-10-12 Thread Kaleb C. Striplin

Okkk

 Original Message 
Subject:Convert used Motor Oil into black diesel (In your back yard)
Date:   Mon, 12 Oct 2009 16:33:33 -0700 (PDT)
From:   ka...@striplin.net
To: ka...@striplin.net



ka...@striplin.net has forwarded you this craigslist.org posting.

Please see below for more information.

Visit the posting at http://fayar.craigslist.org/cto/1418521382.html to 
contact the person who posted this.





   Convert used Motor Oil into black diesel

Date: 2009-10-12, 5:17PM

Make black diesel out of used motor oil. It's much easier to make and to 
get than biodiesel It provides better mileage and power than pump 
diesel. It works great in most diesel engines including Ford 
Powerstroke, Dodge Cummins, VW TDI, Mercedes diesels, International, 
John Deere etc.
It may not solve the world energy problems but it could solve yours and 
save you a ton of money.

Read more...

   * Location: In your back yard
   * it's NOT ok to contact this poster with services or other
 commercial interests

Original URL: http://fayar.craigslist.org/cto/1418521382.html



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--
Kaleb C. Striplin/Claremore, OK
95 E300, 92 500SEL, 92 300SD, 92 300E 4Matic, 91 300D, 91 300E, 
89 560SEL, 87 300SDL x2, 85 380SE 5.0 Euro, 85 190D, 84 190D, 
84 300D euro manny, 81 240D, 80 240D, 76 240D, 76 300D, 
http://www.okiebenz.com


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[MBZ] Beatles Picked Apart

2009-10-12 Thread LWB250
Cool BBC program where they dissect popular music track by track.  Neat stuff 
by the Beatles:
http://waxy.org/2009/10/audio_analysis_of_the_beatles_multitrack_masters/
Dan


  
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Re: [MBZ] [Fwd: Convert used Motor Oil into black diesel (In your back yard)]

2009-10-12 Thread OK Don
This posting has been
flaggedhttp://www.craigslist.org/about/help/flags_and_community_moderationfor
removal

On Mon, Oct 12, 2009 at 6:35 PM, Kaleb C. Striplin ka...@striplin.netwrote:

 Okkk

  Original Message 
 Subject:Convert used Motor Oil into black diesel (In your back
 yard)
 Date:   Mon, 12 Oct 2009 16:33:33 -0700 (PDT)
 From:   ka...@striplin.net
 To: ka...@striplin.net



 ka...@striplin.net has forwarded you this craigslist.org posting.

 Please see below for more information.

 Visit the posting at http://fayar.craigslist.org/cto/1418521382.html to
 contact the person who posted this.

 


   Convert used Motor Oil into black diesel

 Date: 2009-10-12, 5:17PM

 Make black diesel out of used motor oil. It's much easier to make and to
 get than biodiesel It provides better mileage and power than pump diesel. It
 works great in most diesel engines including Ford Powerstroke, Dodge
 Cummins, VW TDI, Mercedes diesels, International, John Deere etc.
 It may not solve the world energy problems but it could solve yours and
 save you a ton of money.
 Read more...

   * Location: In your back yard
   * it's NOT ok to contact this poster with services or other
 commercial interests

 Original URL: http://fayar.craigslist.org/cto/1418521382.html

 

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 --
 Kaleb C. Striplin/Claremore, OK
 95 E300, 92 500SEL, 92 300SD, 92 300E 4Matic, 91 300D, 91 300E, 89 560SEL,
 87 300SDL x2, 85 380SE 5.0 Euro, 85 190D, 84 190D, 84 300D euro manny, 81
 240D, 80 240D, 76 240D, 76 300D, http://www.okiebenz.com

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-- 
OK Don
CONSERVATIVE, n.  A statesman who is enamored of existing evils, as
distinguished from the Liberal, who wishes to replace them with
others.
The Devil's Dictionary
Ambrose Bierce
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Re: [MBZ] wtf?

2009-10-12 Thread Craig McCluskey
On Mon, 12 Oct 2009 18:29:49 -0500 Kaleb C. Striplin
ka...@striplin.net wrote:

 http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Mercedes-Benz-200-Series-280-SEL-1972-mercedes-280-SEL-4-5_W0QQitemZ110443183369QQcmdZViewItemQQptZUS_Cars_Trucks?hash=item19b6ed3d09

Well, he has good feedback. The pictures with the people's head blocked
out are a little wierd, though.

$785 isn't a bad price if you want a '72 280SEL.


Craig

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Re: [MBZ] [Fwd: Convert used Motor Oil into black diesel (In your back yard)]

2009-10-12 Thread Craig McCluskey
On Mon, 12 Oct 2009 18:35:26 -0500 Kaleb C. Striplin
ka...@striplin.net wrote:

 Okkk

This posting has been flagged for removal.



 
  Original Message 
 Subject:  Convert used Motor Oil into black diesel (In your back
 yard) Date:   Mon, 12 Oct 2009 16:33:33 -0700 (PDT)
 From: ka...@striplin.net
 To:   ka...@striplin.net
 
 
 
 ka...@striplin.net has forwarded you this craigslist.org posting.
 
 Please see below for more information.
 
 Visit the posting at http://fayar.craigslist.org/cto/1418521382.html to 
 contact the person who posted this.
 
 
 
 
 Convert used Motor Oil into black diesel
 
 Date: 2009-10-12, 5:17PM
 
 Make black diesel out of used motor oil. It's much easier to make and to
 
 get than biodiesel It provides better mileage and power than pump 
 diesel. It works great in most diesel engines including Ford 
 Powerstroke, Dodge Cummins, VW TDI, Mercedes diesels, International, 
 John Deere etc.
 It may not solve the world energy problems but it could solve yours and 
 save you a ton of money.
 Read more...
 
 * Location: In your back yard
 * it's NOT ok to contact this poster with services or other
   commercial interests
 
 Original URL: http://fayar.craigslist.org/cto/1418521382.html
 
 
 
 /this craigslist posting was forwarded to you by someone using our
 email-a-friend feature - if you want to prevent these, please go to:
 /http://www.craigslist.org/cgi-bin/te/sF2aAJWZyR3csBXau4Wa0VmbN
 
 
 
 -- 
 Kaleb C. Striplin/Claremore, OK
  95 E300, 92 500SEL, 92 300SD, 92 300E 4Matic, 91 300D, 91 300E, 
  89 560SEL, 87 300SDL x2, 85 380SE 5.0 Euro, 85 190D, 84 190D, 
  84 300D euro manny, 81 240D, 80 240D, 76 240D, 76 300D, 
 http://www.okiebenz.com
 
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--- 
Craig McCluskey

Present: 1982 240D/3.0 (Euro 1984 617.912 engine, 4-speed) 254 kmi
 1994 E420 117 kmi
   Past: 1964 190Dc
 1972 220D/8
 1972 220/8
 1987 190E/2.3

 /\   
 \ /  ASCII RIBBON CAMPAIGN   Friends don't send friends
  X   AGAINST HTML MAIL   HTML email.
 / \  AND POSTINGS 
   http://www.fred.net/tds/longrange.html
  http://pruffle.mit.edu/~ccarter/I_do_not_use_microsoft.html

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Re: [MBZ] OT The dangers of a guy with a welder

2009-10-12 Thread Curt Raymond
Its art I think...

We were at a festival the other day where a welder had made a saturn (the 
planet I mean) like object out of thousands (tens of thousands?) of small metal 
objects. Stuff like spoons and gears and nails and railroad spikes and shovels 
and whatnot... Pretty neat, from a distance it looked solid, up close there 
were tons of holes between the items.

-Curt

Date: Mon, 12 Oct 2009 16:02:50 -0600
From: Craig McCluskey diese...@pisquared.net
Subject: Re: [MBZ] OT The dangers of a guy with a welder
To: Mercedes Discussion List mercedes@okiebenz.com
Message-ID: 20091012160250.1bca0371.diese...@pisquared.net
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=US-ASCII

On Mon, 12 Oct 2009 17:21:56 -0400 Rich Thomas
richthomas79td...@constructivity.net wrote:

 http://sites.google.com/site/kenymarshall/Home/work-in-progess

I'm not quite sure what he intends to end up with, so I don't see the
point.


Craig




  
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Re: [MBZ] wtf?

2009-10-12 Thread Bob Rentfro
The dude looks like a more angular Jack of Jack-in-the-Box.

Bob

On Mon, Oct 12, 2009 at 5:37 PM, Craig McCluskey diese...@pisquared.netwrote:

 On Mon, 12 Oct 2009 18:29:49 -0500 Kaleb C. Striplin
 ka...@striplin.net wrote:

 
 http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Mercedes-Benz-200-Series-280-SEL-1972-mercedes-280-SEL-4-5_W0QQitemZ110443183369QQcmdZViewItemQQptZUS_Cars_Trucks?hash=item19b6ed3d09

 Well, he has good feedback. The pictures with the people's head blocked
 out are a little wierd, though.

 $785 isn't a bad price if you want a '72 280SEL.


 Craig

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Re: [MBZ] W124 Motor Mounts

2009-10-12 Thread Allan Streib
Yeah call Rusty he will tell you what is good.


Mitch Haley m...@voyager.net writes:

 LarryT wrote:
 Hi Allan -
 Yup, FEQ is the $33 MM with a MM by Corteco is $88 and another by
 Rein goes for $70.

 Hopefully Gary or Rusty will chime in here. I scarcely even recognize
 the names. (but Corteco sounds kind of familiar)
 Whatever happened to Febi and Lemforder?

 Mitch.

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-- 
1983 300D

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Re: [MBZ] Bore measurements on 140 SD

2009-10-12 Thread Kaleb C. Striplin
Have have less torque? 

Anyway, did you have to lift up the engine any to get the pan out? 


OK Don wrote:

I did RR the pan in the 126 300SDL - in the car. It would not be possible
without removing the drag link and steering shock combo though. SInce mine
were crushed in the fall with the oil pan, they were coming out anyway. I
beleive that you could RR the #1 rod, from what I remember, once the pan is
off.
OR - you could replace that block with the earlier 603, and use the head
from that engine, and not have to worry aboput it at all 

On Mon, Oct 12, 2009 at 9:27 AM, Kaleb C. Striplin ka...@striplin.netwrote:

  

I think its got the same pan as all the other 603's do, which is a 1 piece
I believe.

Loren Faeth wrote:



 On the older Diesels, the smaall steel pan could be removed, engine in
car, to service #1 and the oil pump.  I have never seen a 603/140
combination, so I don't know what you are up against.  If it has a one piece
pan, you will have to pull the engine.  At that time, you may want to use
your weird 603, or repair the original.

At 09:04 AM 10/12/2009, you wrote:

  

I don't know if you can get away with pulling just the lower pan to do #1
or not.



--
OK Don
CONSERVATIVE, n.  A statesman who is enamored of existing evils, as
distinguished from the Liberal, who wishes to replace them with
others.
The Devil's Dictionary
Ambrose Bierce


  

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--
Kaleb C. Striplin/Claremore, OK
95 E300, 92 500SEL, 92 300SD, 92 300E 4Matic, 91 300D, 91 300E, 
89 560SEL, 87 300SDL x2, 85 380SE 5.0 Euro, 85 190D, 84 190D, 
84 300D euro manny, 81 240D, 80 240D, 76 240D, 76 300D, 
http://www.okiebenz.com


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Re: [MBZ] W124 Motor Mounts

2009-10-12 Thread Peter Frederick

Much easier than the old ones.

Chief difficulties are access to the top bolt and dropping the lower  
hexhead into the frame while installing.


Loosen top and bottom bolts -- on the diesel, the right side is a  
pain since the mount is under the turbo and is only accessable from  
underneath with a flex-head ratchet, and it's usually also stuck.   
Lower bolts require dropping the lower sound encapsulation panel  
(usually one piece on the gassers, two on the diesel, and both have  
to come out).


Jack engine, remove both bolts and remove heat shield and mount.  New  
mount will usually be somewhat taller than the old one, so jack the  
engine some more.  Mounts are keyed into the engine carrier.  Start  
bottom bolt first, then top bolt.  Helps to leave some slack so you  
can move then around, and it's usually easier to get both bolts  
started while underneath.  This is required on the W201 as you cannot  
access the top bolt from above.  Screw bottom bolt up lightely, lower  
jack, tighten both bolts fully.  Remember to put the heat shield back  
where it was.


On the gasser, you may have to remove the bottom bolt on the left  
side and jack the engine up quite a bit to reach the top bolt, as  
it's under the intake and when the mounts are really flat, it's quite  
difficult to get a wrench on it, even with a 2' extension!  Fairly  
easy to reach when new.


Easy to check condition, too -- if there is less than 3/4 inch or so  
between the bottom of the hemispherical part's lower edge and the  
frame, or you find thick fluid leaking out, they are shot.


Peter

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Re: [MBZ] Bore measurements on 140 SD

2009-10-12 Thread OK Don
Yes I did, but not a lot. I think I loosened the upper engine  mount bolts,
but didn't remove them.
Less torque, but more HP - don't know if you'd notice the diffence though
without a stop watch? Then again, as heavy as the 140 is, you'd do better
with the starship engine in it 

On Mon, Oct 12, 2009 at 8:44 PM, Kaleb C. Striplin ka...@striplin.netwrote:

 Have have less torque?
 Anyway, did you have to lift up the engine any to get the pan out?

 --
 OK Don
 CONSERVATIVE, n.  A statesman who is enamored of existing evils, as
 distinguished from the Liberal, who wishes to replace them with
 others.
 The Devil's Dictionary
 Ambrose Bierce


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Re: [MBZ] a/c no worky

2009-10-12 Thread Peter Frederick

Check the clutch coil for a short.

Peter

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[MBZ] Fwd: 1987 300D mercedes diesel 165k miles must sell - $600 (Northville)

2009-10-12 Thread Frederick W Moir



Date: Mon, 12 Oct 2009 19:01:42 -0700 (PDT)
From: fred.s...@yahoo.com
Subject: 1987 300D mercedes diesel 165k miles must sell - $600 (Northville)
X-Originating-IP: [208.82.236.168]
To: fred.s...@verizon.net
X-Mailer: MIME::Lite 3.01 (F2.74; A1.74; B3.07; Q3.07)
X-Antivirus: AVG for E-mail 8.5.421 [270.14.12/2431]
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fred.s...@yahoo.com has forwarded you this craigslist.org posting.

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Visit the posting at 
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to contact the person who posted this.


--


1987 300D mercedes diesel 165k miles must sell



Date: 2009-10-12, 11:57AM

Car starts runs and drives well. To pass nys inspection car will 
need a windshield and has a broken turn signal lens. Car has good 
tires. The car has a lot of the luxury features broken some include 
cruise control, rear windows wont go down, heater will only blow on 
high, battery goes dead if it is not started for over a week, and a 
lot of the interior pieces are worn or broken, but like I said car 
runs and drives well. Has made many trips to florida and back. Also 
has a clean title. No pictures come look at the car if you are 
interested. Body has very little rust car was originally a leased 
car in florida. I will be able to show the car this thursday-sunday 
call if you are interested 518-701-7096


   * Location: Northville
   * it's NOT ok to contact this poster with services or other 
commercial interests


Original URL: 
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[MBZ] 140 300SD oil pan removal

2009-10-12 Thread Kaleb C. Striplin
I was just looking at the oil pan removal procedure in the WIS, trying 
to see if possible to remove with engine in car.  The official procedure 
looks like from quick glance, engine stays in car supported from above, 
front springs, axle and etc is removed from the bottom.  Wonder if it 
would be easier to just remove the engine.


--
Kaleb C. Striplin/Claremore, OK
95 E300, 92 500SEL, 92 300SD, 92 300E 4Matic, 91 300D, 91 300E, 
89 560SEL, 87 300SDL x2, 85 380SE 5.0 Euro, 85 190D, 84 190D, 
84 300D euro manny, 81 240D, 80 240D, 76 240D, 76 300D, 
http://www.okiebenz.com

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Re: [MBZ] wtf?

2009-10-12 Thread Kaleb C. Striplin

Yea, I was more thinking it strange the pictures.

Craig McCluskey wrote:

On Mon, 12 Oct 2009 18:29:49 -0500 Kaleb C. Striplin
ka...@striplin.net wrote:

  

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Mercedes-Benz-200-Series-280-SEL-1972-mercedes-280-SEL-4-5_W0QQitemZ110443183369QQcmdZViewItemQQptZUS_Cars_Trucks?hash=item19b6ed3d09



Well, he has good feedback. The pictures with the people's head blocked
out are a little wierd, though.

$785 isn't a bad price if you want a '72 280SEL.


Craig

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--
Kaleb C. Striplin/Claremore, OK
95 E300, 92 500SEL, 92 300SD, 92 300E 4Matic, 91 300D, 91 300E, 
89 560SEL, 87 300SDL x2, 85 380SE 5.0 Euro, 85 190D, 84 190D, 
84 300D euro manny, 81 240D, 80 240D, 76 240D, 76 300D, 
http://www.okiebenz.com


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[MBZ] Wind tunnels

2009-10-12 Thread RELNGSON
http://content.zdnet.com/2346-9595_22-351670.html

RLE
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Re: [MBZ] 140 300SD oil pan removal

2009-10-12 Thread OK Don
That's what it says for the 126 as well. However, if you're willing to
remove the drag link and steering shock, you won't need to drop the frame to
get enough clearance - at least in the 126.

On Mon, Oct 12, 2009 at 8:50 PM, Kaleb C. Striplin ka...@striplin.netwrote:

 I was just looking at the oil pan removal procedure in the WIS, trying to
 see if possible to remove with engine in car.  The official procedure looks
 like from quick glance, engine stays in car supported from above, front
 springs, axle and etc is removed from the bottom.  Wonder if it would be
 easier to just remove the engine.

 --
 OK Don
 CONSERVATIVE, n.  A statesman who is enamored of existing evils, as
 distinguished from the Liberal, who wishes to replace them with
 others.
 The Devil's Dictionary
 Ambrose Bierce


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Re: [MBZ] 140 300SD oil pan removal

2009-10-12 Thread Kaleb C. Striplin
There should be more room in a 140, but I guess I will just have to get 
under there and see.


OK Don wrote:

That's what it says for the 126 as well. However, if you're willing to
remove the drag link and steering shock, you won't need to drop the frame to
get enough clearance - at least in the 126.

On Mon, Oct 12, 2009 at 8:50 PM, Kaleb C. Striplin ka...@striplin.netwrote:

  

I was just looking at the oil pan removal procedure in the WIS, trying to
see if possible to remove with engine in car.  The official procedure looks
like from quick glance, engine stays in car supported from above, front
springs, axle and etc is removed from the bottom.  Wonder if it would be
easier to just remove the engine.

--
OK Don
CONSERVATIVE, n.  A statesman who is enamored of existing evils, as
distinguished from the Liberal, who wishes to replace them with
others.
The Devil's Dictionary
Ambrose Bierce




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--
Kaleb C. Striplin/Claremore, OK
95 E300, 92 500SEL, 92 300SD, 92 300E 4Matic, 91 300D, 91 300E, 
89 560SEL, 87 300SDL x2, 85 380SE 5.0 Euro, 85 190D, 84 190D, 
84 300D euro manny, 81 240D, 80 240D, 76 240D, 76 300D, 
http://www.okiebenz.com


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