Re: [MBZ] Oil, oil, which oil!?
Jim - unless you're pulling a very light car, the weight with a "real car" would be closer to 5000# - most M-Bs are in the mid 3000# and up range! Werner - Original Message - From: "Jim Cathey" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: "Mercedes Discussion List" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Sent: Thursday, February 09, 2006 8:38 PM Subject: Re: [MBZ] Oil, oil, which oil!? Can anyone tell me in real life terms what would be a 10,000 , 8,000 and 6,000 lbs tow? My car trailer is 1800#, figure 3500# for a car on it. I don't envision towing anything more than a UHAUL trailer every now and then and even more rare, an inoperable car on the back of a trailer. Then I think you'll be fine. -- Jim
Re: [MBZ] Driver door groans upon opening
Marshall in Feenix - the Mercedes door stop straps typically use a pair of strong spring loaded steel balls, riding in a groove inside the door. These must be lubricated once in a while, or they will rust, disintegrate, etc. When they go bad, it requires you to remove the door panel and replace the parts inside the door. BTDT! Werner - Original Message - From: "Marshall Field" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Sent: Thursday, February 09, 2006 2:44 PM Subject: [MBZ] Driver door groans upon opening On my '81 300TD, the driver door groans every time you open it. The groaning begins upon opening, continues for 45 degrees of arc, then quits. There is no play in the hinges according to the yank and heave test method. I have greased and re-greased the hinges over and over. I have soaked everything I can see with lots of Kroil Grease easily flows from the hinge parting lines. This is driving me nutz. Help! Marshall in Feenix
Re: [MBZ] Motor Oil Saver
How about magnetic fuel line mileage improvers? Werner - Original Message - From: "Kaleb C. Striplin" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: "Mercedes Discussion List" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Sent: Friday, February 10, 2006 6:38 PM Subject: Re: [MBZ] Motor Oil Saver so its the cheapy chineese filters and the motor honey, whats next? Bulk rate on duct tape? Things really are going the okie way. Rusty Cullens wrote: Yes, I have it in stock now. -- Kaleb C. Striplin/Claremore, OK 89 560SEL, 87 300SDL, 85 380SE, 85 300D, 84 250 LWB, 83 300TD, 81 300TD, 81 240D, 81 240D, 76 450SEL, 76 240D, 76 300D, 74 240D, 69 250 http://www.striplin.net ___ http://www.striplin.net For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/ For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED] To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://striplin.net/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_striplin.net
Re: [MBZ] Walmart vs NAPA auto
To get this thread back to a Mercedes-Benz related theme, are we to understand that in South Dallas the cars in the section8 housing are newer MB models?? Otherwise, how could those cars be "nicer" than ours??? Werner - Original Message - From: "paul" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: "Mercedes Discussion List" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Sent: Saturday, February 11, 2006 4:42 PM Subject: Re: [MBZ] Walmart vs NAPA auto Agreedalbeit under much more stringent requirements. I live near south dallas, and can personally attest (would you like photos sometime?) to the amount of newer, much-nicer vehicles than my own filling the parking lots of various section 8/project housing developments. ... (unsigned)
Re: [MBZ] Holed the Pan
Mercedes had a prominently offered set of steel skid plates in the late 50s and 60s (or so), to protect the oil pan and other vulnerable parts. I was stationed in Europe at the time, and remember seeing that in the options list. It might be a good idea to look into that if you drive in areas where you can get that kind of damage. Werner - Original Message - From: "John Berryman" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: "Mercedes Discussion List" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Sent: Saturday, February 11, 2006 8:04 PM Subject: Re: [MBZ] Holed the Pan On Saturday, February 11, 2006, at 06:58 PM, redghost wrote: Could have been. Karma was running low. Racing to show one of the houses I rent out. This was going to be for a pack of mezkins with lots of cars. Guess the man upstairs did not want that to take place. Things happen for a reason I'm told. The oil pan has to be the most vulnerable part of these cars. Johnny B. I Mac Therefore I am ___ http://www.striplin.net For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/ For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED] To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://striplin.net/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_striplin.net
Re: [MBZ] Bush Good, Guns Good
Sorry, can't hold back! Cheney/Bush/etc are NOT in a special imperial class - they are US citizens like the rest of us, and should be held accountable as we would be if we pulled a stupid stunt of shooting a gun in the direction of another person. Yes, he is entitled to an added level of personal security because of his position, but he is NOT entitled to exemption from the law. As of this morning, it was reported that he was being cited for failure to have the proper hunting permit. I wonder if any of us would get off so lightly if we carelessly (and accidentally) fired a deadly weapon and injured another? I apologize for the rant, but in the USA the law should apply to all, equally. Werner - Original Message - From: "andrew strasfogel" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: "Mercedes Discussion List" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Sent: Tuesday, February 14, 2006 11:43 AM Subject: Re: [MBZ] Bush Good, Guns Good The tragedy was that Cheney seriously wounded a fellow Republican, and in addition is being savaged by the commiepinkolibrall press. The poor man is suffering enough already and needs our prayers... Let's back off and give him some privacy.
Re: [MBZ] '92 300D 2.5 Turbo - Things to Take
Larry - yes, the belt can be changed by the side of the road, but it will
take some tools and aggravation to do it. The usual way is to unclip the
fan shroud, remove the fan (8mm hex head bolt), then you have easy access to
the belt. A long bar is helpful to pull back the tensioner. This belt
usually lasts a long time, so the cheap insurance is to have a spare in the
wheel well, so that if you do need to replace it, you won't have to wait for
the part to arrive.
Werner
'90 300D 2.5, 221k miles (on its 2nd belt)
- Original Message -
From: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: "Mercedes Discussion List" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Sent: Thursday, February 16, 2006 12:40 PM
Subject: Re: [MBZ] '92 300D 2.5 Turbo - Things to Take
OK Don wrote:<< That's belt - singular, perhaps some oil and anti-freeze>>
Thanks! BTW, is the belt something that can be changed by the side of the
road or is it typical of a serpintine belt? Also - how hard is it to get
to
the fuel filters to change them?
Thx
Sincerely,
Larry T ('74 911, '67 MGB, 78 240D, 92 300D)
A Blood Test for your oil - www.youroil.net
For Test Results http://members.rennlist.com/oil
Weber Carb Stuff http://members.rennlist.com/webercarbs
http://members.rennlist.com/my_911/Index.htm For my Paint Job Info
Re: [MBZ] Bought a Different 300D
Larry - as long as the glow cycle works OK, and the engine starts right up
on 1 or 2 compression strokes, I'd leave the GPs as they are. My 2.5 (1990)
still has the original glow plugs and injectors, and they work just fine
after 221k miles. A good Italian tune-up once in a while wouldn't hurt,
either. Bring it out to V.I.R. the next time the Washington section holds
an event there!
But I would strongly recommend switching all the lubes to synthetic
(Mobil1/Delvac1(truck&SUV)) as soon as you can get to it. With proper care,
you should be good to go for at least another 100k miles, probably much more
if the service previously done was done well!
Werner
- Original Message -
From: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Sent: Thursday, February 16, 2006 5:45 PM
Subject: [MBZ] Bought a Different 300D
http://www.autotrader.com/
While I thought I wanted the 300D I found in NJ, we went by and looked at
a
91 300D with only 99k miles. Wanted my wife to see one in person. Since
it
had a price of $1 I passed as this was more than I wanted to pay. It
drove and looked very nice and best of all was just down the street a few
miles. As it turned out this was a wholesaler who liked to sell cars and
this one had been there for 40 days. I can only think the unusually high
price of diesel kept it from selling - diesel is more than premium gas
around here. We got together at $8k and saved myself a trip to NJ with
the
plane/train/drive back/day spent that went with it. Started it from cold
(although it;s in the 60s today) and the light went off after ~5 seconds
and
the car fired up instantly. Idled smoothly and evenly, shifted as it
should
and best of all (for the little woman) it was very quiet! Accelerated
nicely - especially once warmed up and downshifted as it should. Other
than
a rear view mirror needing replacement I didn;t see anything needing
immediate attention.
Plus, this car has less than 100k while the other had 160K. So we went
with
this one -- will pick it up Saturday. I did a search of 91-93 300D in a
50
mile range of 23831 zip - it;s at Hyman Auto and is pearl gray with a gray
interior. Comes with all books, has a new spare, the tool kits looks like
its all there also. Climate control worked as did the radio and
everything
else as far as I went.
One thing I'm curious about. Air bags are critical to surviving an
accident - my wife lived because of the air bag she had when she was in a
wreck last Oct - but I'm not sure how you *know* they're still ready and
willing to fire should the need arise. Does the car do a self test of
the
air bag to make sure it';s working?
At 99k miles the GPs might be getting long in the tooth. What;s the best
way to test them? Resistance? what value should they have? I'll switch
to
Mobil 1 after putting 3000 on this oil. And will change the serpentine
belt
if needed - although it looked like it was in very good condition. What
kind of fuese does it use? The old ceramic ones? I know, once it's in my
driveway I'll discover many of these things ---
Anything else I should plan on doing?
Later --
Sincerely,
Larry T ('74 911, '67 MGB, 91 300D 2.5)
A Blood Test for your oil - www.youroil.net
For Test Results http://members.rennlist.com/oil
Weber Carb Stuff http://members.rennlist.com/webercarbs
http://members.rennlist.com/my_911/Index.htm For my Paint Job Info
Re: [MBZ] 91 300D 2.5
Yes, Larry - no valve periodic adjustments needed. The down side is that
you don't get the "free look" at the timing chain as you would on a 617! In
my case, the valve cover hasn't been off in 221k miles!
Werner
- Original Message -
From: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Sent: Friday, February 17, 2006 7:03 PM
Subject: [MBZ] 91 300D 2.5
Howdy -
Does this model have hydraulic / self-adjusting valves?
Sincerely,
Larry T ('74 911, '67 MGB, 91 300D 2.5 Turbo - tomorrow!)
A Blood Test for your oil - www.youroil.net
For Test Results http://members.rennlist.com/oil
Weber Carb Stuff http://members.rennlist.com/webercarbs
http://members.rennlist.com/my_911/Index.htm For my Paint Job Info
Re: [MBZ] M-1 T&S AWOL @ W/M - UPDATE
Bob - my experience with Diesel MBs is that if they are in good condition, they will only use a quart every 3-5k miles (or so). If more than that, look for leaks. If no leaks and the consumption is greater than above, then Dino probably makes economic sense in moderate to warm climates, IMO. Werner - Original Message - From: "Bob Rentfro" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: "Mercedes Discussion List" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Sent: Friday, February 17, 2006 6:27 PM Subject: Re: [MBZ] M-1 T&S AWOL @ W/M - UPDATE Tom shared: "My pig burns too much oil for me not to have a reliable source." Tom brings up a point I've often wondered about. Let's say your pig does burn a lot of oil. How reasonable is it to use costly synthetic vice dino juice...since neither is staying in the engine very long? Bob Rentfro
Re: [MBZ] Got my New 300D !!! ;-)
Larry - you need to be more specific on the "toggle on the console". I'm
sure we can tell you what each switch does, if we know which one you are
wondering about.
As for the rear headrests, they pull up manually, and the console switch
drops them for improved rear visibility. And where is this "button with a
circle and arrows"?
I have the original owner's manual for my 1990 2.5, and can scan in/copy any
pages you might need.
Werner
- Original Message -
From: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Sent: Saturday, February 18, 2006 11:21 AM
Subject: [MBZ] Got my New 300D !!! ;-)
Oh MAN! How am I ever going to be able to drive my 240D again after that
300D?? It's SO FREAKIN QUIET!! I'm in LOVE!! ;-) Smooth, starts
instantly, everything works! I even figured out the little button next to
the seat adjusting levers that raise & lower the front seat headrest! So
col.. It's everything ya'll said it was and MORE! Accelerates like
crazy! ;-) Yep, I'm thrilled with it!
Now, the only thing that I haven't figured out is the little toggle on the
console does? It's kinda loose so either it's broke or just loose.
So what's it supposed to do?
The climate control works perfectly - checked AC when we 1st test drove it
and the heater today - it was 70F yesterday and in the 30's today with
snow!
Crazy weather. Even the little temp in the dash works. Oil pressure is
normal - pegs as soon as the accel pedal is pressed and the coolant temp
stays a 1/4" or so below the 80C mark. Just like my 240D. Door locks
work,
antenna works, all lights works, etc. etc. ya'll don;t want to hear all
the
details..
Another question - The rear seat head rests - there's a button to lower
them
on the dash (I think) - but how are they raised? Also, there's a button
with a circle and arrows on it - ??
The books I got are the Service Booklet, Radio Controls & Operation,
Service
Locations and some other single page things. But I need a Owners Manual -
what's the best source? Sure,, I can do a search and I'm sure Performance
sells them - but I'd like to get the best price. What about junk yards?
Do
they sell them?
Thanks for answering all my questions about this (and the other) cars -
it's
great to have such a huge source of intelligent information!!
;-)
Sincerely,
Larry T ('74 911, '67 MGB, 91 300D)
A Blood Test for your oil - www.youroil.net
For Test Results http://members.rennlist.com/oil
Weber Carb Stuff http://members.rennlist.com/webercarbs
http://members.rennlist.com/my_911/Index.htm For my Paint Job Info
Re: [MBZ] couple 124 questions
Sunil - the engine should be running, in park, and the transmission thoroughly warmed up when checking the fluid level. As for the PS fluid, some people take the extra trouble to try and get all the old oil out, but you don't do that when changing the engine oil (its nigh impossible to drain the oil cooler), so just sucking out the reservoir and replacing the filter and fluid there should suffice, especially if its done on a regular basis (30k miles). You could disconnect the retune line and let the engine idle for the few seconds needed to pump out the old oil, but that risks 1) running the system dry, and 2) making a mess and possible future leaks by disturbing the hose/clamp connection. Werner - Original Message - From: "Sunil Hari" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: "Mercedes Discussion List" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Sent: Saturday, February 18, 2006 11:34 AM Subject: [MBZ] couple 124 questions My 1992 300D needs some maintenance work. A few questions, if you don't mind. 1) When checking ATF level, the maintenance manual says to shift to P, run engine for 1 to 2 minutes, and check the fluid level. While checking, should the engine be running? I ask because there's another line that says, "With the transmission at operating temperature, the oil level should be at the max mark." 2) Power steering fluid - to replace it, I know you suck out what you can out of the reservoir. How do you get the rest out? I tried to check skinnerbox, but the site is down. Thanks. -- Sunil Hari [EMAIL PROTECTED] 513-205-7474
Re: [MBZ] 1992 Mercedes-Benz 300D 2.5 EURO MODEL
That car isn't only "rare", its also a much slower - any small normally aspirated Diesel engine in a heavy car is not a good idea, especially once you've had a "turbo" experience! Werner - Original Message - From: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Sent: Saturday, February 18, 2006 2:23 PM Subject: Re: [MBZ] 1992 Mercedes-Benz 300D 2.5 EURO MODEL In a message dated 2/17/2006 10:50:05 P.M. US Mountain Standard Time, [EMAIL PROTECTED] writes: http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/1992-Mercedes-Benz-300D-2-5-EURO-Diesel-RARE_W0 QQitemZ4614223685QQcategoryZ6335QQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem I wonder how they got those 16 inch tires on the 15inch rims. Jim Friesen Phoenix AZ 79 300SD, 262 K miles 98 ML 320, 140 K miles
Re: [MBZ] Blue Bomber running
If you've run that now a few times (and rev'd it up to boot) with no oil pressure, the engine is probably toast. The knocking sound could be almost anything flailing around inside the engine if the lubrication has failed. Of course, it could be a failure of the sensor/indicator for oil pressure, but most of the time, no one can be that lucky! Werner - Original Message - From: "Luther Gulseth" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: "Mercedes Discussion List" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Sent: Saturday, February 18, 2006 3:00 PM Subject: Re: [MBZ] Blue Bomber running Just started it again today and paid attention to the oil pressure. Let it run for about 10-15 seconds, and the oil pressure never moved off of zero. Ran the RPM's up to about 2k, and nothing. Could this be the reason 10 years ago they thought there was a hole in the block, no oil pressure? Could that be causing the knocking we hear?
Re: [MBZ] Fuel Filter on my 91 300D Turbo
Larry - the main fuel filter is good for a couple of years or 30k miles,
according to the book. And yes, it is fairly tight, but I've always been
able to snake it out by putting some movement on the vacuum line and hoses
in the vicinity. The last time I didn't even spill much fuel!
Take out the top bolt (carefully), and the filter is then moveable. Put a
large rag under it just in case!
The in line pre-filter is much easier to change, and it will certainly get
clogged before the big main filter. Always carry a spare of that $2 filter
in your trunk!
Werner
- Original Message -
From: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Sent: Saturday, February 18, 2006 6:26 PM
Subject: [MBZ] Fuel Filter on my 91 300D Turbo
Howdy -
Took a quick look at the engine a little while ago - the main fuel filter
looks like a tight fit. Is it a PITA or easier than it looks?
Sincerely,
Larry T ('74 911, '67 MGB, 91 300D Turbo)
A Blood Test for your oil - www.youroil.net
For Test Results http://members.rennlist.com/oil
Weber Carb Stuff http://members.rennlist.com/webercarbs
http://members.rennlist.com/my_911/Index.htm For my Paint Job Info
Re: [MBZ] Fuel Filter on my 91 300D Turbo
I'm not so sure that there's much difference in the fuel pre-filters from
the early 80s to the 90s 124s. I've seen them in clear and opaque housings,
and prefer the clear ones so that you can see when crud starts to discolor
the filter inside. We'll have to talk to Rusty and see if there's any
practical difference between the 123/124/126 pre-filters!
I've sent 8 scanned pages directly from my Owner's Manual.
Werner
- Original Message -
From: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: "Mercedes Discussion List" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Sent: Saturday, February 18, 2006 7:59 PM
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Fuel Filter on my 91 300D Turbo
Thanks Werner -
I have several - no, wait a minute - those are for my 240D. I need to
order
some stuff from Rusty on Monday - I'll be sure to get some spares -
Thanks!
Sincerely,
Larry T ('74 911, '67 MGB, 91 300D Turbo)
A Blood Test for your oil - www.youroil.net
For Test Results http://members.rennlist.com/oil
Weber Carb Stuff http://members.rennlist.com/webercarbs
http://members.rennlist.com/my_911/Index.htm For my Paint Job Info
- Original Message -
From: "Werner Fehlauer" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: "Mercedes Discussion List" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Sent: Saturday, February 18, 2006 7:27 PM
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Fuel Filter on my 91 300D Turbo
Larry - the main fuel filter is good for a couple of years or 30k miles,
according to the book. And yes, it is fairly tight, but I've always been
able to snake it out by putting some movement on the vacuum line and
hoses
in the vicinity. The last time I didn't even spill much fuel!
Take out the top bolt (carefully), and the filter is then moveable. Put
a
large rag under it just in case!
The in line pre-filter is much easier to change, and it will certainly
get
clogged before the big main filter. Always carry a spare of that $2
filter
in your trunk!
Werner
- Original Message -
From: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Sent: Saturday, February 18, 2006 6:26 PM
Subject: [MBZ] Fuel Filter on my 91 300D Turbo
Howdy -
Took a quick look at the engine a little while ago - the main fuel
filter
looks like a tight fit. Is it a PITA or easier than it looks?
Sincerely,
Larry T ('74 911, '67 MGB, 91 300D Turbo)
A Blood Test for your oil - www.youroil.net
For Test Results http://members.rennlist.com/oil
Weber Carb Stuff http://members.rennlist.com/webercarbs
http://members.rennlist.com/my_911/Index.htm For my Paint Job Info
___
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For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED]
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Re: [MBZ] Fuel Filter on my 91 300D Turbo
Larry - both my 126 and the 124 use a right angle connected pre-filter. I
also used the same one on my daughter's 123. I suspect thee is not
difference in these!
As for the printed MB manuals, I have the climate control one, and 2 volumes
for the chassis. I don't have the engine nor the electrical diagrams, which
would be nice, but I've gotten along without them for 15 years now. Could
have used the electrical diagrams when I chased down the broken wires to the
trunk lid that at first killed the trunk lights, then blew the fuse. Ended
up removing the inside cover of the lid, and replacing a couple feet of the
wire that gets flexed every time the trunk lid is raised. Put it all back
together and now it all works again, hopefully for the next 15 years!;-))
Werner
- Original Message -
From: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: "Mercedes Discussion List" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Sent: Sunday, February 19, 2006 12:27 AM
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Fuel Filter on my 91 300D Turbo
Hi Werner,
The 240D uses a prefilter with a 90 degree bend in one end - don't know
about the W124 but will ask Rusty.
One thing - in the world of Porsche, the Porsche parts system has been
widely available for a while now - and last year, Porsche released an
official version as .pdf files available for $15 for all the dealers. Not
as interactive as the bootleg copies but certainly more up to date.
I can only assume this kind of information has never filtered to MB
owners?
I guess if it had, it'd be on the internet by now. In any case, it's
pretty
nice to be able to open the files and look at the same info the parts
counter people see.
I had a set of microfische for all the MB models showing the parts
diagrams
and parts numbers by chassis number. I still have them around here - but
the W124 came after I bought my set of films. ;-( and I no longer have the
fische reader anyway.
Thanks again for the info - I looked at all the scanned pages you sent -
they were very helpful -
Sincerely,
Larry T ('74 911, '67 MGB, 91 300D Turbo)
A Blood Test for your oil - www.youroil.net
For Test Results http://members.rennlist.com/oil
Weber Carb Stuff http://members.rennlist.com/webercarbs
http://members.rennlist.com/my_911/Index.htm For my Paint Job Info
- Original Message -
From: "Werner Fehlauer" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: "Mercedes Discussion List" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Sent: Saturday, February 18, 2006 10:07 PM
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Fuel Filter on my 91 300D Turbo
I'm not so sure that there's much difference in the fuel pre-filters from
the early 80s to the 90s 124s. I've seen them in clear and opaque
housings,
and prefer the clear ones so that you can see when crud starts to
discolor
the filter inside. We'll have to talk to Rusty and see if there's any
practical difference between the 123/124/126 pre-filters!
I've sent 8 scanned pages directly from my Owner's Manual.
Werner
- Original Message -
From: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: "Mercedes Discussion List" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Sent: Saturday, February 18, 2006 7:59 PM
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Fuel Filter on my 91 300D Turbo
Thanks Werner -
I have several - no, wait a minute - those are for my 240D. I need to
order
some stuff from Rusty on Monday - I'll be sure to get some spares -
Thanks!
Sincerely,
Larry T ('74 911, '67 MGB, 91 300D Turbo)
A Blood Test for your oil - www.youroil.net
For Test Results http://members.rennlist.com/oil
Weber Carb Stuff http://members.rennlist.com/webercarbs
http://members.rennlist.com/my_911/Index.htm For my Paint Job Info
- Original Message -
From: "Werner Fehlauer" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: "Mercedes Discussion List" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Sent: Saturday, February 18, 2006 7:27 PM
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Fuel Filter on my 91 300D Turbo
Larry - the main fuel filter is good for a couple of years or 30k
miles,
according to the book. And yes, it is fairly tight, but I've always
been
able to snake it out by putting some movement on the vacuum line and
hoses
in the vicinity. The last time I didn't even spill much fuel!
Take out the top bolt (carefully), and the filter is then moveable.
Put
a
large rag under it just in case!
The in line pre-filter is much easier to change, and it will certainly
get
clogged before the big main filter. Always carry a spare of that $2
filter
in your trunk!
Werner
- Original Message -
From: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Sent: Saturday, February 18, 2006 6:26 PM
Subject: [MBZ] Fuel Filter on my 91 300D Turbo
Howdy -
Took a quick look at the engine a little while ago - the main fuel
filter
looks like a tight fit. Is it a PITA or easier than it looks?
Sincerely,
Larry T ('74 911, '67 MGB, 91 300D Turbo)
A Blood Test for your oil - www.y
Re: [MBZ] Fuel Filter on my 91 300D Turbo
Larry - as others have reported, there is some subtle difference in the main
fuel filter for the 123 and 124 models. They do look almost the same, but
Rusty has shipped different filters for the 124 602 engines from the 617
engines.
As for fuel quality and tank cleanliness, I have followed the advice of some
older hands from when I bought my first Diesel in '79: buy your fuel from
stations that sell lots of fuels, especially to truckers. You take the
biggest risks by getting fuel from small stations which often use old
storage tanks, which can collect lots of water and debris.
I usually fill up at major truck stops - the one nearby pumps about 130,000
gallons a week, so the fuel doesn't have much of an opportunity to get
contaminated. And I've never added any special "snake oil" to the vehicle's
fuel tank, and haven't ever had any problems in over 400,000 miles of Diesel
driving! In your case, I would just run the tank down until the reserve
light comes on and then fill it with fresh (known quality) fuel. I wouldn't
fool around with the tank and pickup unless you had some symptoms indicating
dirty fuel/lines, etc. The recent report we saw on this net, of a fuel
issue seems to be traceable to a fill of contaminated fuel.
Werner
- Original Message -
From: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: "Mercedes Discussion List" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Sent: Sunday, February 19, 2006 10:39 AM
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Fuel Filter on my 91 300D Turbo
Hi Werner
That's good to know about the pre-filters - actually, now that I think
about
it I believe the main fuel filter for the 240D and W124 300D is the same -
sure looked the same. This is going to make keeping an inventory of parts
around for both vehicles much easier!
This morning was the coldest of the season at 17F according to the t'stat
in
the instrument cluster - I decided to see how it would start - thinking
that's probably the best possible test to check the condition of the
engine,
GPs, fuel injectors, etc. To my delight, it glowed for about 10 seconds
then *instantly* fired up and settled to a even rpm - no bumping, shaking,
or uneven running - it acted the same as it did on the first day we looked
at it when it was in the 60s. ;-)
This car just keeps getting better & better! At this rate I won;t have to
do any "tinkering"!
I am concerned with possibly having some algae growth in the tank. What's
the preferred product to kill the bugs? Or should I pull the fuel level
insert from the fuel tank and see if there's any black stuff in there?
BTW, does the anti-bacteria In-A-Can actually get rid of the black sludge
or
just stop it from growing? I fear I already know the answer - I should
visually check the tank and clean it -- but once its clean a can every 6
months will keep it clean - right?
I want to avoid the problem OK Don is having / just had when his car
started
running poorly when on a trip - even though we don't have a definitive
answer so far AFAIK.
Now, where can I go, where can I go... doesn;t really matter - I won't go
anywhere, I'll just drive around! ;-)
Sincerely,
Larry T ('74 911, '67 MGB, 91 300D Turbo)
A Blood Test for your oil - www.youroil.net
For Test Results http://members.rennlist.com/oil
Weber Carb Stuff http://members.rennlist.com/webercarbs
http://members.rennlist.com/my_911/Index.htm For my Paint Job Info
- Original Message -
From: "Werner Fehlauer" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: "Mercedes Discussion List" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Sent: Sunday, February 19, 2006 9:48 AM
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Fuel Filter on my 91 300D Turbo
Larry - both my 126 and the 124 use a right angle connected pre-filter.
I
also used the same one on my daughter's 123. I suspect thee is not
difference in these!
As for the printed MB manuals, I have the climate control one, and 2
volumes
for the chassis. I don't have the engine nor the electrical diagrams,
which
would be nice, but I've gotten along without them for 15 years now.
Could
have used the electrical diagrams when I chased down the broken wires to
the
trunk lid that at first killed the trunk lights, then blew the fuse.
Ended
up removing the inside cover of the lid, and replacing a couple feet of
the
wire that gets flexed every time the trunk lid is raised. Put it all
back
together and now it all works again, hopefully for the next 15 years!;-))
Werner
- Original Message -
From: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: "Mercedes Discussion List" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Sent: Sunday, February 19, 2006 12:27 AM
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Fuel Filter on my 91 300D Turbo
Hi Werner,
The 240D uses a prefilter with a 90 degree bend in one end - don't know
about the W124 but will ask Rusty.
One thing - in the world of Porsche, the Porsche parts system has been
widely available for a
Re: [MBZ] air filter on 92 300D
Larry - the owner's manual, and the accompanying maintenance manual spell
out more details, but essentially the 300D 2.5 calls for oil/filter changes
at 5000 mile intervals, air and fuel filter changes at 15,000 miles, and
trans,.service at 30,000 miles. Coolant and brake fluid (brake fluid change
required within 6 months prior to taking to the track according to MBCA
rules)changes at 2 years or 30,000 miles, along with PS fluid and filters.
Front wheel bearing repacks as needed, usually a long time - I keep meaning
to do mine after 220k miles!
Werner
- Original Message -
From: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: "Mercedes Discussion List" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Sent: Monday, February 20, 2006 10:27 AM
Subject: Re: [MBZ] air filter on 92 300D
What do I need that will tell me what I need to do as far as maintanence?
How often for fuel filters, air filters, repack wheel bearings, and all
the
other things we need to do to keep our MB running in top form?
Thanks -
Sincerely,
Larry T ('74 911, '67 MGB, 91 300D Turbo)
A Blood Test for your oil - www.youroil.net
For Test Results http://members.rennlist.com/oil
Weber Carb Stuff http://members.rennlist.com/webercarbs
http://members.rennlist.com/my_911/Index.htm For my Paint Job Info
- Original Message -
From: "Sunil Hari" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: "Mercedes Discussion List" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Sent: Sunday, February 19, 2006 4:55 PM
Subject: Re: [MBZ] air filter on 92 300D
When I changed the oil, i was waiting for it to drain and i poked around
some more - i found the "hidden" latches and changed the filter. Thanks
for
your help.
These 124s are better to drive, but take a little more work to do
maintenance jobs. On my 123, air and fuel filters were much more
[SNIP]
Re: [MBZ] FWD vs. RWD
In addition to making it cheaper to build cars, FWD also made the cars lighter for the same interior volume by eliminating frame and support structure for the traditional WD stuff. And it also made good business sense for the manufacturers, since much of the usual front end collision damage resulted in totaling the car (not much value in the part aft of the dash) - and more opportunities to sell a new car! Werner ... FWD came about because it was cheaper to manufacture
Re: [MBZ] Mats, Mirror & Owners Manual for my 91 300D
Larry - just be careful with the windshield mirror mount - you don't want to
break the glass in the event the glue is holding it on too well. A good
glass shop should be able to give you some hints.
As for the wood trim, Drew Tibcken (Heritage Woodwoks) is the expert as far
as I'm concerned. I also have a hairline crack on my '90 300D console wood
which he looked at while we were at Startech. Essentially, you have to take
out the ash tray and sequentially work back to remove the wood. If I recall
correctly, all the switches mount from the rear, not as easy to fool with as
a 126!
Werner
- Original Message -
From: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Sent: Monday, February 20, 2006 4:16 PM
Subject: [MBZ] Mats, Mirror & Owners Manual for my 91 300D
Stopped in at the dealership to check out their mats - bought a 4 pc set
of
rubber mats with circles on it for $72 and a Owners Manual for $10. Much
better than the $30-$40 most vendors are selling them for!
Hmm... maybe I should buy a bunch and start selling them? ;-)
Ordered some maintanence stuff from Rusty also - I ordered a new inside
rear
view mirror and now I'm wondering how to get the old one off? Does it
just
pop out of the ball socket swivel joint? And then pop the new one in?
The
old one is damaged - the plastic frams is broken with the night/day switch
missing.
Also ordered a new right hand mirror adjusting switch from Rusty - I
assume
I can pry it out and unplug it, then plug the new one it?
The wood on the console around the gear shift and window switches has a
small crack in it - how hard are they to change out? Haven't found one
yet - thought I;d try Potomac Recyclers. Unless someone has a spare
around
they'd like to sell?
It just has the 4 openings for the window switchs, the lockout and fader
for
the speakers -- I've never had much luck trying to repair them.
Sincerely,
Larry T ('74 911, '67 MGB, 91 300D Turbo)
Re: [MBZ] Off Topic - keeping warm
and another one across the river from Philly - we're using a Better'n'Ben insert 24/7, and have about 5 acres of wood that is going to waste! But not using oil feels REAL good. Werner - Original Message - From: "John Berryman" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: "Mercedes Discussion List" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Sent: Monday, February 20, 2006 7:09 PM Subject: Re: [MBZ] Off Topic - keeping warm On Monday, February 20, 2006, at 06:20 PM, [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: in other news.. i was wondering how every one has been dong regarding house heat it has been a mild winter here in phila i have a wood stove insert that has saved me a fortune in heating costs in my living room fireplace and a fireplace in the basement that i use for enjoyment ( not a good efficient source of heat really) so ... do we have any other wood burners out there ? mike collins phila pa 1985 500 sec Go Villanova Yup, we did this last week or so. I burn 5-6 cords each Winter. 2 Vermont castings stoves. Johnny B. I Mac Therefore I am
Re: [MBZ] Oil Change - Questions
Larry - as for the oil, the book says 8 qts, but you can only get about 7 in
before its over full. That's partly because the cooler and hoses hold a
lot, and also most people don't get all the oil out because it takes so long
to really let it drain. And good synthetics like Delvac1, as Marshall
pointed out recently, really clings to the metal surfaces and it can take
literally hours before it all drains into the crankcase. So the accepted
rule is to refill only to the point that it is halfway between the add and
full marks.
Its a similar situation for the transmission - especially if you take the
trouble to drain the torque converter. Add to that the complication that
the "full" mark on the dipstick is for a transmission and oil at operating
temperature, so again it pays to be patient and fill it in increments.
I would have 8 qts of engine oil and 8 qts of ATF on hand before doing
either job, and 2 quarts of differential Mobil1 when you get to the
differential.
And my apologies for giving misleading info on the rear view mirror - I went
out to the garage and looked at my wife's car, and the base of the mirror is
actually mounted to the windshield surround, and apparently not directly to
the glass. I must have been recalling an earlier car of mine.
Werner
- Original Message -
From: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Sent: Monday, February 20, 2006 4:51 PM
Subject: [MBZ] Oil Change - Questions
I plan to change the oil & filter in my '91 300D Turbo this week - ordered
parts from Rusty -
How many quarts of oil (mobil 1) will I need to buy? How hard is it to
get
to the oil filter?
Any unusual stuff I should expect? I also ordered a AT Filter kit - need
to
know how much ATF to buy?
TIA -
Sincerely,
Larry T ('74 911, '67 MGB, 91 300D Turbo)
Re: [MBZ] Oil Change - Questions
Larry - yes, the AT has a drain plug, but that will not drain the torque
converter. You have to turn the engine over (in the correct direction) very
slowly until the small Allen-head drain bolt appears at the bottom, then
remove it to drain the fluid. Then you just slightly loosen the external
oil line on the left side of the transmission, up near the top so as to
break the vacuum.
Of course, the major PITA is removing first the front sound panel, and then
the rear main sound panel. And if the small metal clips are stripped, I
would recommend getting a few to keep on hand for spares. The hex head
screws have a big metal washer to firmly hold up the sound panel, and the
metal clip just gets tapped into the opening in the frame.
Werner
- Original Message -
From: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: "Mercedes Discussion List" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Sent: Tuesday, February 21, 2006 9:07 AM
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Oil Change - Questions
Werner wrote:<>
Not a problem - being cautious is always the best policy. ;-)
Thanks for the oil info -- I want to get that changes as quickly as
possibly - when I checked the oil level I could see it was thick and
obviously dino juice. I don't like that stuff!
I was thinking about using my Topsider to extract the oil - you mentioned
draining it and allowing enough time -- is draining preferred on this
model?
I'll probably have to extract some, them dr
I plan to change the ATF also - thanks for including the info about it. I
have a AT filter kit on the way from Rusty - and will be sure to drain the
TC when the time comes. I assume the pan on the AT does *not* have a
drain
plug like the olds used to - and I'll probably make a mess when I drop the
pan. I may try to extract the ATF with my Topsider to minimize the amount
of fluid that ends up on the floor! ;-)
Thanks again!
Sincerely,
Larry T ('74 911, '67 MGB, 91 300D Turbo)
Re: [MBZ] Oil Change - Questions
Larry - the dealers are almost all using topsiders these days as it saves
fooling around with the sound panels and therefore costs them less labor.
The tradeoff is that you don't get to see what else is going on under the
engine - loose items, small leaks, etc. And as we've mentioned before, you
cannot get all the old oil out using any method - there's the oil cooler,
big connecting lines, etc.
My preference is to get it on a lift or over a pit and take the time to go
over things thoroughly.
Werner
- Original Message -
From: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: "Mercedes Discussion List" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Sent: Tuesday, February 21, 2006 9:07 AM
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Oil Change - Questions
Werner wrote:<>
Not a problem - being cautious is always the best policy. ;-)
Thanks for the oil info -- I want to get that changes as quickly as
possibly - when I checked the oil level I could see it was thick and
obviously dino juice. I don't like that stuff!
I was thinking about using my Topsider to extract the oil - you mentioned
draining it and allowing enough time -- is draining preferred on this
model?
I'll probably have to extract some, them dr
I plan to change the ATF also - thanks for including the info about it. I
have a AT filter kit on the way from Rusty - and will be sure to drain the
TC when the time comes. I assume the pan on the AT does *not* have a
drain
plug like the olds used to - and I'll probably make a mess when I drop the
pan. I may try to extract the ATF with my Topsider to minimize the amount
of fluid that ends up on the floor! ;-)
Thanks again!
Sincerely,
Larry T ('74 911, '67 MGB, 91 300D Turbo)
Re: [MBZ] Oil Change - Questions
Larry - you have a lot of ground to cover in your questions! First, the 124 2.5 Diesels have (in my case) 2 sound panels, the front one about 3x3 ft which gives access to the engine drains, radiator lower end, etc - and held on with 4 of those special screws. This panel has to come off before you get to remove the rear panel, about 3x4 ft, under the transmission. A real PITA if you try it while on your back, but a piece of cake on a lift. And I keep a few of those screws and clips on hand, as if you overtighten and strip out the clips, the best fix is just to replace them. Some second owners have found the sound panels missing as places like Jiffy Lube are suspected of just "forgetting" to put them back on! Make sure you take a good look at the metal transmission cooler lines right under the radiator, as with the panels in place, they can get corrosion started there (another reason to look around). Also look for chafe points on those lines. The serpentine belt should look evenly smooth on the flat side, and have no cracks of the grooved side. Changing the belt is simple; getting to it is another PITA job. Coolant level is at the seam of the plastic expansion tank. A loose cap would make me want to see why the engine was run without any cooling system pressure - leaks??? With no pressure, the system might even run hot or boil off some water. Normal temp is around 90-95C, with 100C OK. You might want to get a new radiator pressure cap from Rusty just to be safe. Flushing the system is supposed to be done every 2 years (and I'm delinquent in that on my car). In the old days, we just dumped the old stuff on the ground, but now the EPA and animal rights people have educated us to dispose of this poisonous stuff correctly. I'll get around to that one of these days - but I suspect that if the engine isn't overheating, that a simple drain and refill with good M-B antifreeze (50-50) will suffice. IMO, snake oil procedures are only needed if there are cooling system problems. But while doing this coolant flush is a good time to change the thermostat if the car isn't running at the proper temperature - and you probably want to change the serpentine belt at the same time. Getting working space in there usually involves removing the fan shroud and fan, which is held on by a small 8mm Allen bolt (and it will appear to have been tightened to 200 ft-lbs!!). M-B makes a special tool to do that job, which amounts to a very long arm ratchet handle for the 8 mm screw, and a simple notched bar to hold the pulley, both of which you can improvise. Yes, by all means replace the fuses - and have a 30A strip fuse on hand in case you have to replace the blower fuse. The foam strip across the front underside of the hood keeps the air going through the radiator. I've had to replace mine once in 15 years. And vacuum out all the leaves and debris on both sides - you should make sure that the drains are all open, and that there's no corrosion starting under the battery area. There, have I covered the questions?? Werner - Original Message - From: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: "Mercedes Discussion List" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Sent: Tuesday, February 21, 2006 12:10 PM Subject: Re: [MBZ] Oil Change - Questions Whoa Werner, What sound panels? Under the engine/tranny where I'll be working to change the ATF? Remember, the most modern MB I'm used to is a '78 240D! Clatter clatter! How are the sound panels held in place? ;-) Sounds like I'll need to pick up some of the metal clips prior to starting this job? I'm still starry eyed to learn I have a windshield washer reservoir with a *heating* coil in it! That is *so* cool! And I see Buick (or someone) advertising their heated WW fluid!! And MB was doing it *at least* 15 years ago! ;-) Have been out looking at the engine - the coolant level is about 1/2 way up the reservoir - but I don't see a marker on the reservoir indicating the proper level. But I suspect it's right. BTW, the coolant res. cap was loose - probably caused the cooler than normal running? (a little below 80C) Can the coolant flushing be left to an independant shop? Assuming I bring the MB coolant and make sure they use it - I'd do it but I always seem to spill a lot when opening the system to drain. Of course, it looks like MB has really made things easy to work on with this W124 (in some areas)! The belt looks to be in good condition - no visible cracks, abrasions, etc. Found the fuse box (an improvement over the W123!) but it looks like the same old ceramic fuses. I assume they still need to be replaced on a 12-15 year cycle? Meaning it's time now. Perhaps since the vibrations have been reduced (so it seems) it's not necessary? The hood has a foam pad near the latch mechanism - it has some damaged foam so I'll want to replace it - but that's the only obvious thing needing attention. Am getting ready to vacuum the leav
Re: [MBZ] Pumping oil out of injectors OM617
The oil drain pipe from the turbo down to the pan isn't only for CA cars. On my '83 126, all the O-ring seals had to be replaced to stop some significant oil leaks - a messy job, but worth the effort. Also make sure the air cleaner drain is connected properly - the flex mounts break, and eventually someone doesn't connect the drain properly. Werner
Re: [MBZ] Oil Change - Questions
Larry - I don't recall any small inline filters over by the battery on my
car, but there are lots of vacuum lines - be careful NOT to inadvertently
disconnect any, especially when changing the air filter. You will quickly
notice when your turbo 2.5 becomes "non" turbo!
As for cool outside air, others have already answered - min temp, economy
pushbutton selected, and fan on "min". Leaving the fan on "auto" will force
it to "max" if it can't sense the cabin temp to be as selected on the
temperature wheel. Then again, why would you want to run in a condition
that M-B KNEW you didn't need?;-)) Just dial in a comfortable temperature,
and if the outside air is lower, the A/C won't come on, and the fan won't
speed up. If the ambient outside air is warmer, then use the A/C switch and
enjoy the car!
And no, there's no filters - that's a W140 problem/feature.
Werner
- Original Message -
From: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: "Mercedes Discussion List" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Sent: Tuesday, February 21, 2006 2:21 PM
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Oil Change - Questions
Thanks Werner!
I think you addressed every question! ;-) Just finished vacuuming
the engine compartment - not a lot but difficult to get to - mostly under
the hinges and around the battery. I may have to add another attachment
to
my shop vac. - something with a long hose on its end.
I noticed a small inline filter (looks like a oil prefilter but
smaller)
between the battery and the fender. No hose clamps so must not be under
much pressure? Any ideas?
Did the W124 come with a cabin filter? Haven't seen any evidence of
one. Sure would help my allergies.
How do I open the climate control so I can get outside air - no heat or
cool - just outside air?
My sound panels are both in place. The more I look around the more I'm
convinced it was maintained by a MB dealer. Isn't the OEM WW fluid dark
blue?
Now, all I need is my package from Rusty. ;-) I really want to get
rid
of that dino juice - it's amazing how much I notice little things after
getting used to M1.
I like to look around when doing work as you suggest - in fact, that's
my single biggest complaint about using a shop for the work.. Things they
would leave as-is I would fix - or at least write it down to make sure I
buy
the parts I need to fix it later. And I've found things *needing* repair
while working on something else.
I have to go back to pick up my floor mats and new ignition.key and
will
get a handfull of fuses and some of the screws and fasteners for the
underside panel - just in case I break one or someone else has broken one
and neglected to fix it properly. Sounds like 4 sets would be all I need
for a while -
Thanks again for all your help - sorry about all the questions - can't
stand being ignorant about my cars!
Take care -
Sincerely,
Larry T ('74 911, '67 MGB, 91 300D Turbo)
Re: [MBZ] Help - What did I do?
Larry - I wouldn't be looking at the GPs - it started tight up and ran well.
It has to be something with the fuel/air mix in the cylinder. A clogged
fuel supply would be the first thing to check. I don't want to conjure up
any more serious problems, but you mention of a formerly loose radiator
expansion tank cap (un-pressurized system) and now a pressurized system
makes one think a bit. Let's hope its just crud in the fuel lines.
Any recent tank fill-ups from small stations? You did change out the
pre-filter, right??
Werner
- Original Message -
From: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: "Mercedes Discussion List" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Sent: Tuesday, February 21, 2006 3:47 PM
Subject: [MBZ] Help - What did I do?
Hi Werner -
Bad news I was going to go to the Post Office - it started instantly - as
usual, backed out, put it in D and it went to 1000 or 1500 rpm & then
started running rough with white smoke from the exhaust! The more gas I
tried to give, te more white smoke - Idled back to into the driveway and
pondered what I'd done - vacuumed, tightened the coolant cap - that's all
I
did in the engine compartment. Guess I'll look for any loose wires or
hoses --
What was the outcome of
Any ideas? Could 3 or 4 GPs have gone bad? It warmed partly up to 50 or
60C at most but it kept doing the same thing. Turned it off, waited a few
seconds and restarted it - didn't help -
I'm confused! But MAN am I glad my wife didn't drive it to work and have
this happen! I'd never hear the end of it.
I know a lot about diesel engines, I rebuilt my 240D engine from the block
up - basically they need fuel and air - I'm thinking I should change the
fuel filters 1st - maybe I got bad gas ? Although I bought fuel at the
same
place for my 240D without a problem. I checked the air filter yesterday
and it looked clean.
Any ideas? How can it run so perfectly one day and like crap the next?
We
put close to a hundred miles on it yesterday (Monday) and it never missed
a
beat. The tank had been filled up 2 days before - on Saturday. It ran
absolutely like a brand new car since we picked it up on Saturday -
This is what scared me away from gas engines --
Guess I'll take the 240D to the Post Office.
Sincerely,
Larry T ('74 911, '67 MGB, 91 300D Turbo, 78 240D)
Re: [MBZ] Help - What did I do?
Larry - I thought you said you had some filters from your 123? The in-line
should work just fine. And it will block before the big main can, almost
always.
Or, just go out and start it back up and hope whatever blocked the fuel line
has dropped off!
(the white smoke would suggest to me that you weren't getting much fuel into
the cylinder - and don't want to think about what else causes white smoke!)
Werner
- Original Message -
From: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: "Mercedes Discussion List" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Sent: Tuesday, February 21, 2006 4:11 PM
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Help - What did I do?
Nope, haven't changed any filters yet. Also, I loosened the coolant cap
(just in case) and it didn;t change anything. I really can't see the
loose
coolant cap doing anything significant to the engine - the poor running
happened before the engine warmed up even a little - and yesterday it ran
perfectly at all temps. Actually, the cap wasn;t *real* loose - it may
have
been tight enough to allow pressure to build.
I agree with the fuel filter suggestion - might run to the dealer if I
start
feeling better - pain came back a little while ago - feels like someone
driving a nail thru my ankle every 15 seconds. No fun. Unless aftermarket
filters are acceptable? Or maybe I;ll call Rusty - get a couple of main
filters and a couple of prefilters
I'll try to change the prefilter - and try to pour the contents in a glass
to see if there's anything suspicious.
Thanks for your help -
BTW - I went back to read OK Dons thread - but his seemed to have fixed
itself. Maybe mine will self-heal?
Sincerely,
Larry T ('74 911, '67 MGB, 91 300D Turbo)
Re: [MBZ] Help - What did I do?
Larry - what are the outside air temps where you are? Any possibility that
you could have a return fuel line plugged with ice? This is getting to
sound like plugged lines - perhaps after you used up the fuel in the big
filter/IP, it was starved for fuel, before the engine heat could circulate
warmed fuel back to the tank??
Werner
- Original Message -
From: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: "Mercedes Discussion List" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Sent: Tuesday, February 21, 2006 4:41 PM
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Help - What did I do?
OK - this is weird - went back out and opened the fuel cap - it went
wooosh - put the cap back on got in and started it. It started as usual -
and didn;t want to rev above 1500 - so I kept increaseing the spms slowly
until it was running normally! Rand it down the sttreet and around the
block - you can really feel that turbo coming on!
Went back and opened the fuel cap again - no woosh this time.
Perhaps I have some algae in the tank? I think I should put some
anti-algaecide then change the main filter after a week or so and the
prefilters after a day or 2.- then change the prefilter again after a
week?
But this is weird - first OK Don has a strange problem after 100s of miles
running perfectly - then it repairs itself - now my car (same except for
the
year) does something similar!
Thanks for your help!!
Sincerely,
Larry T ('74 911, '67 MGB, 91 300D Turbo)
Re: [MBZ] Help - What did I do?
Larry - these fuel systems in modern cars are designed to be sealed to the
extent that they do not emit vapors freely into the atmosphere, so a
"swoosh" now and then when removing the gas cap seems to be pretty normal,
in my experience. I don't think it has anything to do with "algae" - but
you do have to be diligent in only putting decent fuel in the tank. That's
why I always recommend going to places that pump a lot of fuel, usually
associated with truck stops. You can bet that a real trucker will avoid a
refuel spot that dispenses bad fuel. As I mentioned earlier, my favorite
spot is a FlyingJ that does about 130,000 gallons a week, plus they filter
at the pumps, too.
If you think the quality of what's in the tank is suspect, you could always
add some good Diesel supplement that's designed to clean up the system.
Werner
- Original Message -
From: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: "Mercedes Discussion List" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Sent: Tuesday, February 21, 2006 6:06 PM
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Help - What did I do?
Actually, my Nissan Pickup truck has done that "woosh" evertime I fill
up -
and we've owned it since new. It's *always* done that.
I was assuming the "swoosh" was from the algae producing some kind of gas
which produced a low pressure condition - True? Not true?
Thanks -
Sincerely,
Larry T ('74 911, '67 MGB, 91 300D Turbo)
Re: [MBZ] Help - What did I do?
Larry - Don't worry about having to cool down the turbo unless you just came off a hot couple of laps at the track! Under normal driving, the engine and associated parts can tolerate immediate shutdown without special "handling". Glad to hear that the pre-filter looked clean - sounds like the fuel tank and fuel are all OK. The antenna isn't adjustable. On the '90, the tip has a chrome "button" on the end that keeps it from going down in the trunk tube. You may have the wrong extendable mast - I got one from Rusty a couple months back that had a small diameter black plastic tip, and he then sent me the correct one which works OK. The wrong one had a 140 part number, which gave me a clue that it wasn't correct. Could be the P.O. got the wrong part? My recommendation is to just go out and drive it for a while - you can drive yourself crazy by changing out hoses and parts that are still OK. I suppose I'm fortunate, but all the fuel hose pieces (except the injector return hoses which I've replaced twice) on my car are the original ones, and have lasted 221k miles - probably have jinxed it now! Actually, I'm more concerned about the odds and ends heater/coolant hoses that are still original on my car. Some of those look like a bear to change! But as long as the beast starts and runs, I plan on letting it alone. Werner
[MBZ] Sound Panels, 300D 2.5
Larry - when you get around to changing the oil on your '91 and have the front sound panel off, you could do a fella named Aaron Lam (on this list) a favor if you could get a picture of it with a digital camera. He asked me to take one the next time I have mine off, but its getting to look like that will be several months away. Thanks, Werner
Re: [MBZ] Oil Change - Questions
Sunil - the sound panel being off should hurt anything, especially in normal driving on decent roads. I suppose they provide a bit of deflection of water, mud, and grit, but they are there to make the car seem quieter, mainly. Werner - Original Message - From: "Sunil Hari" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: "Mercedes Discussion List" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Sent: Tuesday, February 21, 2006 8:02 PM Subject: Re: [MBZ] Oil Change - Questions That inline filter you talk of is a vacuum switch. leave it alone. And my front noise encapsulation panel is missing. Made changing the oil really simple, but it sort of sounds like my 84 300D. Am I doing any damage running around without the panel in place?
Re: [MBZ] Oil CHange
Sunil - no, you shouldn't have to change filters more often than the oil (at 10k intervals). Good oils hold the soot and soluble contaminates in suspension, and the filters are very large, and can hold all the bigger particles easily. Werner - Original Message - From: "Sunil Hari" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: "Mercedes Discussion List" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Sent: Wednesday, February 22, 2006 10:34 AM Subject: Re: [MBZ] Oil CHange but do you have to change the filter before 10Kmi? On 2/22/06, Kaleb C. Striplin <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote: it seems like everyones tests show good to at least 15k, so it would seem logical that unless somebody has a really screwed up car, they can safely go to 10 or 15k with M1 with no testing, since it has already been proven many times before by other people.
Re: [MBZ] Shoulda done that months ago
Curt - are you using synthetics in the engine and tranny? That alone will let the engine "spin" a lot faster on cold mornings. I'm sure the engineers at M-B designed you car with adequately sized cables - it gets mighty cold in Northern Europe, too!;-)) Bottom line: Good battery+clean cable connections+working glow plugs+synthetic oils=easy starting, even below 0F! Werner - Original Message - From: "Curt Raymond" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Sent: Wednesday, February 22, 2006 9:42 AM Subject: [MBZ] Shoulda done that months ago So Dory the 190D is at my Indy's shop for new shift bushings so I can use reverse again. That being the case I'm driving Hammie the 240D. Yesterday at 17F the battery in Hammie was just not having any of it. I rousted my wife and we dragged him around (second gear this time Jim) and he started right up. Started up off the battery on the way home, but I stopped at AutoZone anyway and for around $70 with tax I got a new battery. The change out only took a couple minutes and while I should have changed the negative battery cable while I was there, the effect was still obvious. When warm the car always starts real easy but I hadn't realized how slow the starter was going, now I just barely hit the key and it fires right up. This morning at 19F I glowed once and cranked for maybe 5 seconds before it fired up, if I'd glowed twice it'd have fired off immediately but I wanted to test things. I spent a little time looking at the battery cables on the 190D when I last changed the oil and concluded they seem a little small for all they accomplish. Has anybody ever upgraded the cables? The existing ones appear to be about 2ga or so. I'm thinking 0ga if I could get it in the right length (or have it made) would help ensure cold starts. At the very least replacing the old weathered cables with new ones should lower resistance and help things along somewhat. Anybody know what length the cables are on a 190D 2.2l? -Curt '85 190D "Dory" 234kmi '83 240D "Hammie" 253kmi
Re: [MBZ] Shoulda done that months ago
Curt - I suppose 15w50 is OK in warmer climates,and for worn engines, but I switched to 5W40 several years ago. My local Mobil distributor claims that Delvac1 only comes that way! I would think that the 240D would turn over better than the 300D, simply because there's one less cylinder to "push". My experience with the 5 cylinder engines is mostly with the turbo version in the SDs (and of course the 602 engine in my '90D), but my daughter has a '77 300D - and none of us has had any problems with starting them here in the mid-Atlantic area, and without resorting to the block heater, too. But then again, we rarely see anything below +10F, either! Perhaps there's enough difference in the performance of the glow plugs in the 4 cylinder engines to require the extra effort? I have no concerns about putting in heavier cables for the starter system, but only say that my experience is that the OE set-up should be good enough, if its in good condition. As for ATF in manual transmissions, I haven't any info. In the "old days", we usually used a gear oil (85W?), but I recall that in the 60s or 70s Detroit started to put thinner engine oils in manual transmissions, perhaps to get better fuel mileage?? I do also remember an incident in Alaska when a GI brought a 4 cylinder Scout up from the "lower 48" in the summer, and by January the running engine couldn't make the rear wheels turn as the differential gear lube had turned solid. Had to warm it up in a garage, and carve it out with a putty knife. So a free-flowing lube certainly has its place, especially in cold climates! Werner - Original Message - From: "Curt Raymond" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Sent: Wednesday, February 22, 2006 1:51 PM Subject: Re: [MBZ] Shoulda done that months ago BTW, I am using sythetic motor oil, 15w50 because I couldn't get any 5w40. If I still can't get 5w40 Mobil 1 in the fall I'll get Amsoil. Has anybody actually used Mobil 1 synthetic ATF in an MB manual trans? I tried it once and within a couple weeks there was a terrible squealing. My Indy replaced the trans and the driveshaft bearing. Ah ha! Says I, it wasn't the trans but that pesky bearing after all, but still theres a little lingering doubt in my mind. That and one of the guys I work with says Mobil 1 ATF is contraindicated for manual transmissions. I find this suspect but its something I've heard. -Curt
Re: [MBZ] RPM Redline
Larry -
I "found" the redline at V.I.R. while doing laps, near the end of the long
uphill straight. Somewhere near 90mph, the transmission decided it was time
to shift into 4th, and the slight surge in engine rpm caused the IP to say
"bzzzt". Nothing was wrong with it, just wanted to let me know where the
limit was. As I recall, the tach was getting near to 5k; after the shift to
4th, it just went back to pulling the car along.
Now, 18 months later, the car is still happy at highway speeds.
Werner
- Original Message -
From: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Sent: Wednesday, February 22, 2006 6:23 PM
Subject: [MBZ] RPM Redline
Noticed today there is no redline on my tachometer -- just where is the
redline? Although I know transmission is not going to allow the engine to
continue to accelerate as it nears redline (I don't think) , but I'm
curious
about where it is.
TIA --
Sincerely,
Larry T ('74 911, '67 MGB, '91 300D Turbo)
Re: [MBZ] Brake Fluid Flush
Larry - its ABS - and the main thing to remember when flushing the brake
fluid is to use enough pressure, probably around 20 psi. I was too
conservative at one of the GWS tech sessions several years ago, and managed
to drain the lines and leave lots of air in them. Learned that ABS systems
need to use more pressure! The M-B mechanic did a quick fix with me on the
pedal, but that procedure is not recommended, especially with older master
cylinders.
I'd recommend taking your time and doing one wheel first to get the
technique down correctly.
Werner
- Original Message -
From: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Sent: Wednesday, February 22, 2006 5:58 PM
Subject: [MBZ] Brake Fluid Flush
Howdy -
One of these days I plan to flush the brake fluid. Is there anything I
need
to know or do differently since the 300D has ASB - is that the right
initials? - anti-lock braking - anyway - I will be using a pressure
system
to bleed it -
TIA -
Sincerely,
Larry T ('74 911, '67 MGB, '91 300D Turbo 2.5)
Re: [MBZ] Shoulda done that months ago
Curt - you're right, its been a long time since I fooled with a manual tranny. I would therefore assume that if your 240D calls for ATF, then by all means use Mobil1 - the cold and high temp characteristics alone are worth it! My comment that 4 cylinder engines should be easier to spin when cold than 5 cylinder engines was just based on the work that is being done on less parts. Maybe Marshall has some data that would give insight as to why the 240D needs more or less effort from the starter than the newer cars, such as the newer design of the glow system? And I agree that having more resistance in the battery cable connections is bad, and you should always try and keep corrosion out of them, and keep them clean and tight. But "old" cables don't have increased resistance due to age - the metallurgy of the copper doesn't change with age. Corrosion at the connections will increase the resistance, though, and that has to be addressed. In more than 50 years, I have never had to change a cable for being old, but I have had to repair corroded connections many times! You can check resistance of the cable/connector circuit with a voltmeter, measuring from the battery terminal to the starter, and battery to engine ground. I would be suspicious of a voltage drop under load of more than 1 Volt. Remember that there are hundreds of Amperes flowing in those cables when the starter is doing its "thing". Werner - Original Message - From: "Curt Raymond" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Sent: Wednesday, February 22, 2006 5:27 PM Subject: Re: [MBZ] Shoulda done that months ago Hi Werner, Sounds like you haven't maintained a manual trans in awhile. My 240D and 190D both call for ATF, I'm just curious if anybody has acutally tried Mobil 1 ATF. I had an '88 GMC with a manual trans and it used ATF, my '84 Ford Tempo did too. Some of what you wrote confused me all my cars are 4cyl, 190D 2.2l and a 240D. I think that whatever it is that makes the 190D more efficient (other than not having 3 fat guys in the back seat) also makes it start better. I don't know if thats greater compression or better heat transferance from the glowplugs or whatever... The important thing here is that I think the battery cables haven't been changed in 20+ years and should at the very least be swapped out. I'm SURE they've gained in resistance. How much I dunno but I bet they've gained something and when its really cold (like -20F) and every amp counts I want it to be able to get there. -Curt
Re: [MBZ] Leather Vs MB-Tex and Proper Oil Level
Larry -
Yes, the proper level for the oil is below the max mark, probably about 1/2
to 3/4 way between the top and bottom marks. Take Marshall's advice,
though, and look at the level after the car engine has been off for several
hours - the Mobil1 does stick to internal engine parts, and does take some
time to flow to the sump!
As for tex vs. leather, a clue is found in the code for the interior -
usually, a 1xx number is MB-tex, and a 2xx number is leather. You can check
out all the codes in the build sheet (available from MBUSA or the dealer, if
it isn't with the car documents), and also should be on the metal plate in
front of the radiator (at least the exterior color is embossed there). The
codes were listed sometime back by Dan Landiss, and I think I can find the
link if you don't have it.
Werner
- Original Message -
From: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Sent: Thursday, February 23, 2006 4:38 PM
Subject: [MBZ] Leather Vs MB-Tex and Proper Oil Level
Hello all -
Well, I changed my oil - used the topsider to suck it all out and also
changed the fuel prefilter. It runs better already - but that's probably
my
imagination since I'm a big fan of the Mobil 1 I put in. ;-)
Now, my question - did I read that it;s best to keep the oil level at
between the upper & lower marks instead of at the top mark? Now, I have
mine about 3/4 of the way up, between the upper and lower marks.
Sound OK -
Next, I know how to tell the difference between Tex and Leather if I can
look under the material - so far I haven't found a place where I can
look -
is there any other way to tell the difference?
TIA -
Sincerely,
Larry T ('74 911, '67 MGB, 91 300D Turbo)
Re: [MBZ] name my car
How about "Heidi"? Werner - Original Message - From: "OK Don" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: "Mercedes Discussion List" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Sent: Saturday, February 25, 2006 11:08 PM Subject: Re: [MBZ] name my car Zsa Zsa On 2/25/06, Sunil Hari <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote: 1992 300D 2.5T, smoke silver, cream beige interior. 286Kmi. Not mint by any means, but mechanically perfect. Name it. Right now, can't think of anything befitting it, just because it's not that unique. For reference, I named my 1974 240D (green on green) Lucille, and never really named my 1984 300Dt. -- Sunil Hari 1992 300D 2.5T - 286Kmi. [EMAIL PROTECTED] 513-205-7474
Re: [MBZ] Isolating small oil leak around radiator
John - just under the rear/bottom of the radiator, the transmission oil cooler lines transition from rubber the steel, which often rust as the area collects moisture, and is easy to overlook (especially if you use topsider oil changes). I wirebrushed the steel lines and primed and painted them before they could perforate and leak. An easy job to do with the sound panel removed, but worth checking. Werner '90 300D 2.5, 221k miles - Original Message - From: "John Peterson" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: "Mercedes Discussion List" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Sent: Saturday, February 25, 2006 9:44 AM Subject: [MBZ] Isolating small oil leak around radiator Friends, my 300D came out of winter hibernation for a day yesterday and I noticed a small drip of oil (not trans fluid) from the bottom driver's side of the Behr radiator. It is very hard to see the origin of the drip- as chasing oil that is falling by gravity and wind is never easy. Here is my question for the savants of this group. What are likely places for this leak on that side of the radiator or nearby so that I can clean things and see where this is coming from? As a side note, one month of sitting in 10-40 degree temps here in Rhode Island and the MB fired after one glow and first compression turnover. I have had gas cars that won't start if left for 2 weeks. John Peterson Kingston RI 1991 300D 2.5 77k miles
Re: [MBZ] what is going on with Mobil 1
One of the main reasons to get Mobil1 Truck and SUV oil was to save a few cents over the price of Delvac1. The last time I bought Delvac 1 a few months back, it cost me $5.50 a quart, based on $22 for a gallon jug. It appears that the price differential is getting pretty small? Besides local Mobil oil distributors, most decent truck stops sell Delvac 1 in gallon jugs at about the same price. Bottom line: rather than spend a lot of time looking for the elusive Mobil1 T&SUV, just buy the real thing, Delvac1! Werner - Original Message - From: "James Zavesky" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: "Mercedes Discussion List" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Sent: Sunday, February 26, 2006 9:07 PM Subject: Re: [MBZ] what is going on with Mobil 1 Bought 18 T&S 5W40 quarts at two different Murrays in Cleveland for the 600SEL and E320 @ $5.49/qt James Zavesky - Original Message - From: "OK Don" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: "Mercedes Discussion List" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Sent: Sunday, February 26, 2006 8:46 PM Subject: Re: [MBZ] what is going on with Mobil 1 I found T&S 5W40 at O'Reilly's this afternoon - $5.59/qt. I bought 10, and changed the oil on Rattled. On 2/26/06, Dave M. <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote: > I posted about this exact topic a week or two ago. Short version is, > Mobil is screwing with their formulas AGAIN. The Mobil-1 5W-40 is now > re-named "Turbo Diesel Truck" formula. But I have yet to see this at > any store, let alone in 5qt jugs at Wal-Mart. There's also a new > 10W-40 'Extended Performance' version which looks tempting in place of > the thicker 15W-50 'Extended Performance'. Neither of these is on the > shelf at the 2 Wal-Marts near me. > > For Delvac-1, World Impex has it on sale for $25/gallon at the moment, > but who knows what S&H will be (I didn't check): > > http://www.worldimpex.com/item_detail.html?sku=238657 > > > :-) > > -Dave M. > > > -- > > Date: Sun, 26 Feb 2006 10:25:17 -0500 > > From: Allan Streib <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> > > Subject: [MBZ] what is going on with Mobil 1 > > > > > > I know -- not another oil thread. I admit I don't normally read them > > myself, so I probably have missed discussion of this. So I do > > apologize if this is old news, but... I was at Wal Mart yesterday > > looking for Mobil 1 Truck and SUV and I noticed that it is now 5W-30 > > weight and no longer diesel rated. > > > > Looking around, they had nothing else they had in stock as far as > > Mobil 1 seemed suitable. I am overdue for an oil change, so I picked > > up 2 gallons of Chevron Delo -- inexpensive, and good oil (though not > > Mobil 1). > > > > It's a bit frustrating that they keep reformulating and relabeling > > these oils. Hopefully they are at least improving them in the > > process. > > > > So, for reference next time, what is the recommended M1 oil for an MB > > diesel? Do I need to hunt down some Devlac 1? > > > > Allan > > ___ > http://www.striplin.net > For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/ > For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED] > > To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: > http://striplin.net/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_striplin.net > -- OK Don, KD5NRO Norman, OK '90 300D 243K, Rattled '87 300SDL 290K, Limo Lite, or blue car '81 240D 173K, Gramps, or yellow car '78 450SLC 67K, brown car '97 Ply Grand Voyager 78K Van Go
Re: [MBZ] What is the most addictive thing about a Mercedes Diesel?
Don - if you think the 602 engines are too quiet, then you'll really hate the new CDI engines. You have to listen very closely to tell the difference from a gasser! Werner WB2BRB '90 D 221k '83SD 210k '87 F150 4x4 78k '99 John Deere 4100 400 hrs - Original Message - From: "OK Don" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: "Mercedes Discussion List" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Sent: Sunday, February 26, 2006 9:08 PM Subject: Re: [MBZ] What is the most addictive thing about a Mercedes Diesel? I like the total "mechanicalness" of the Diesels. The clatta - clatta is reassuring - you KNOW something is happening under the hood. I do miss that aspect of the 603 and 602 engines - too quiet. I like knowing that you can pull the battery out and still drive. I like having many fuel options, whether I exercise them or not. I love the mechanical engineering in these cars. The complex ACC systems are great when working properly, can be a real pain when not. -- OK Don, KD5NRO Norman, OK '90 300D 243K, Rattled '87 300SDL 290K, Limo Lite, or blue car '81 240D 173K, Gramps, or yellow car '78 450SLC 67K, brown car '97 Ply Grand Voyager 78K Van Go
[MBZ] Proper use and spelling (OT)
Besides the obvious, usually inadvertent mis-spellings, there are common errors in the use of terminology that violates the "rules" of proper English language. Nouns based on people's names should have the first letter capitalized - and the biggest examples appear on these lists: "diesel" came into usage in honor of Rudolf Diesel, so that whenever that term (Diesel) is used, it should have a capital "D" as the first letter. Same goes for Volts, Amperes, Hertz, Farads, Henrys, etc., and of course, Mercedes-Benz! Werner
Re: [MBZ] Proper use and spelling (OT)
Luther - Even though I suspect that you probably have a European heritage like many of us, but like it or not, English forms the foundation of what we commonly call the "American" language. I wouldn't dare to even try and make you a British/English citizen! ;-)) Actually, I'm of the opinion that most true "Americans" are descendents of the people who lived in the American Continent before those meddlesome "furriners" took over, about 500+ years ago! So if you prefer, you can just have fun with your mercedes-benz and run it on dino or bio fuels. Werner WB2BRB - Original Message - From: "Luther Gulseth" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Sent: Tuesday, February 28, 2006 1:34 PM Subject: Re: [MBZ] Proper use and spelling (OT) I am NOT English and therefore will NOT follow English language rules! I am AMERICAN, we have our own language and our OWN RULES! Ya'll have a problem with that? Oh well! Luther, (with flame suit on) ~Besides the obvious, usually inadvertent mis-spellings, there are common ~errors in the use of terminology that violates the "rules" of proper English ~language. ~Nouns based on people's names should have the first letter capitalized - and ~the biggest examples appear on these lists: "diesel" came into usage in ~honor of Rudolf Diesel, so that whenever that term (Diesel) is used, it ~should have a capital "D" as the first letter. ~Same goes for Volts, Amperes, Hertz, Farads, Henrys, etc., and of course, ~Mercedes-Benz! ~ ~Werner
[MBZ] Local fuel price lookups
Here's a handy url to find current fuel prices. Just enter your Zip code and prices as of COB yesterday should come up. http://autos.msn.com/everyday/gasstations.aspx?zip=&src=Netx Werner
Re: [MBZ] Subject: Re: Inspections
Add NJ to the list that uses a fairly lengthy dynamometer emissions test, every 2 years. After a former Governor (Christie Whitman) decided to save the taxpayer's money be getting rid of civil servants and outsourcing inspections to Parsons Co., they got so far behind that they went from one year to 2 year intervals. Diesels (so far) don't get emissions tests in NJ, although they are contemplating that, soon. Werner - Original Message - From: "Curt Raymond" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Sent: Sunday, January 01, 2006 7:31 AM Subject: [MBZ] Subject: Re: Inspections Unless its a '96 (OBD II emissions) or later and the shop has the good computer. In fact I stopped having my pickup tested at one place because they didn't have the rig to plug into the computer. Cripes thats as easy as pie "computer says everything is okay so emissions are all set." I don't understand why this place wants to stick with the dyno. -Curt Date: Fri, 30 Dec 2005 19:12:31 -0800 (PST) From: Lee Levitt <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: Re: [MBZ] Inspections To: Mercedes Discussion List <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii" In Mass, 4 or all wheel drive cars have a reduced emissions testing level. 2 wheel drive cars are tested for emissions at load on a two wheel dyno. AWD cars care only tested at idle. Lee - Yahoo! for Good - Make a difference this year. ___ http://www.striplin.net For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/ For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED] To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://striplin.net/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_striplin.net
Re: [MBZ] Remote Locks on 300SDL
Jim - is it possible that your solution will wok on an '83 SD? Right now, only the driver's door locks/unlocks all the doors, trunk, etc. Using the key at the trunk or right side door will only lock/unlock that 'door' on my car, unlike the more versatile system on my '90 124. It would be really nice to have a remote system on my '83! Werner - Original Message - From: "Jim Cathey" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: "Mercedes Discussion List" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Sent: Monday, January 02, 2006 1:32 PM Subject: Re: [MBZ] Remote Locks on 300SDL I'd kind of like to install Remote locks on my car. My failing memory prods me that one of our listers did just that. I believe it was uncomplicated using trunk access to the sucking motor and bypassing the HE-HAW alarm system. No bypassing of anything is needed. I've done this on my SDL, and on one of our SL's. I don't see why it wouldn't be just as easy on any electric-pump equipped MB from the 80's until they changed the system (assuming they did). http://cathey.dogear.com/SDLkeyless.html The factory alarm will continue to work as well (or as ill) as it did before the keyless system is added. Ours work just fine. -- Jim ___ http://www.striplin.net For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/ For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED] To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://striplin.net/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_striplin.net
Re: [MBZ] New Life and a Scalded Dog
Andrew - if all the obvious mechanical drag items are ruled out (including wheel alignments and tire pressure), then the usual culprit for poor fuel economy would lead one to timing problems - either the cam or the IP could be off and have a serious effect. Even with a heavy foot and a heavy car, we routinely get 29 mpg on the 126 SD, and 31 mpg on the 124 D. Werner - Original Message - From: "andrew strasfogel" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: "Mercedes Discussion List" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Sent: Monday, January 02, 2006 3:39 PM Subject: Re: [MBZ] New Life and a Scalded Dog I'm still under 20 mpg (276K miles 83 300TD) and it's neither leaky fuel lines nor a faulty odometer. As of now I still don' have a clue what might be causing this crppy fuel economy. The car runs fine otehrwise. To make matters worse, diesel sells for more than high test here in D.C. On 12/30/05, BillR <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote: Bob - My mileage is back up to 26 on my '81 SD. I did have a leaking fuel return line on 1 [enough to make it wet] and replaced 1-2-3, but I don't think that was all of the reason for the 3-4 mpg drop I got for three tanks. BillR Jacksonville 1981 300SD 'EM' 269k miles -Original Message- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Bob Rentfro Sent: Friday, December 30, 2005 6:08 PM To: Mercedes mailing list Subject: [MBZ] New Life and a Scalded Dog I believe my lack-o-power woes may have been a tank of bad fuel. Now that I've ran two tanks of the usual stuff, everything is back to normal...even without changing the filters yet. Could that be possible? Additionally, the oldest girl child was home with the TDI Beetle. I drove it today and was reminded how much fun they are. It goes like a scalded dog. She claims she got 47mpg on the way home. When she takes off for the U.K. next month, I be able to clean it up, get a timing belt done...and somehow tell her it is going to become mom's car while she is singing and dancing across the U.K. Girl-child will be surprised to find out she is now old enough to get her own car when she returns. Stand by for tears. Bob Rentfro '77 300D 146K Litchfield Park, AZ ___ http://www.striplin.net For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/ For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED] To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://striplin.net/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_striplin.net ___ http://www.striplin.net For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/ For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED] To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://striplin.net/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_striplin.net ___ http://www.striplin.net For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/ For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED] To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://striplin.net/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_striplin.net
Re: [MBZ] Remote Locks on 300SDL
OK and thanks, Jim - I'll look for the necessary hardware and add that to the "to-do" list. I want to get the '83SD in top shape to try the route 66 ride in September - at only 210k miles, its barely broken in! Werner - Original Message - From: "Jim Cathey" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: "Mercedes Discussion List" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Sent: Monday, January 02, 2006 7:07 PM Subject: Re: [MBZ] Remote Locks on 300SDL Jim - is it possible that your solution will wok on an '83 SD? Right now, only the driver's door locks/unlocks all the doors, trunk, etc. Using the key at the trunk or right side door will only lock/unlock that 'door' on my car, unlike the more versatile system on my '90 124. I believe this is possible, hence the reference in my write-up to the three-wire (as opposed to five-) pump. The three wires ought to be +12V, GND, and the switch from the door. I believe the same in-line resistor override trick on the door switch line will work there too. Be the first to actually find out! -- Jim ___ http://www.striplin.net For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/ For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED] To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://striplin.net/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_striplin.net
Re: [MBZ] OT: Oklahoma Precipitation
Noah had a benz?? (must have been a Diesel, running bio fuel??? Werner - Original Message - From: "Bob Rentfro" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: "Mercedes Discussion List" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Sent: Monday, January 02, 2006 9:59 PM Subject: Re: [MBZ] OT: Oklahoma Precipitation OK Don shared: "I've done my part to combat the grass fires we've been having since they've surrounded us (though still at least 10 miles away). I washed all four cars, rotated tires, and removed the snow tires from the 300D 2.5 today. If that doesn't bring rain and/or snow, I don't know what will -" Those are the exact things that Noah did before he got into boat building. Bob Rentfro '77 300D 146K Litchfield Park, AZ ___ http://www.striplin.net For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/ For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED] To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://striplin.net/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_striplin.net
Re: [MBZ] FW: Today's Diesel Prices
Diesel at the FlyingJ truck stop at exit 2C/I-295 in South Jersey is $2.259 today, while in Vienna, Va just outside the beltway is 50 to70 cents higher. Werner - Original Message - From: "Tom Hargrave" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: "Mercedes mailing list" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Sent: Tuesday, January 03, 2006 11:02 PM Subject: [MBZ] FW: Today's Diesel Prices Thanks, Tom Hargrave 256-656-1924 www.kegkits.com -Original Message- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Tuesday, January 03, 2006 1:40 PM To: Weekly Highway Diesel Prices Subject: Today's Diesel Prices ** ** ** * **** * * *** U.S. Department of Energy** ** ** * Energy Information Administration * **** ******* To unsubscribe/change address, ** ** ** ** ** * see the message footnotes * * EIA, the Nation's clearinghouse for energy statistics. *** ** (NOTE: To best view this document, your email software should be set to view the item in an 80 character format, using a "non-proportional" font, e.g. courier) ** On-highway diesel prices, by week and PADD (Self Service Cash Price in Dollars per Gallon, Including Taxes) Diesel Prices Web URL: http://tonto.eia.doe.gov/oog/info/wohdp/diesel.asp US NATL EASTNEWCENTLOWER GULF ROCKY WEST DATEAVG COAST ENGLAND ATL ATL MIDWEST COAST MTN COAST CA PADD PADDPADDPADDPADDPADDPADD PADD I IA IB IC II III IV V -- - - --- - - --- - - - - 060102 2.442 2.481 2.645 2.590 2.420 2.412 2.414 2.392 2.519 2.538 051226 2.448 2.481 2.643 2.599 2.416 2.420 2.421 2.410 2.523 2.543 051219 2.462 2.499 2.647 2.609 2.438 2.443 2.435 2.410 2.505 2.521 051212 2.436 2.458 2.598 2.577 2.393 2.409 2.429 2.401 2.500 2.465 051205 2.425 2.428 2.591 2.569 2.354 2.390 2.411 2.471 2.538 2.486 051128 2.479 2.467 2.619 2.604 2.394 2.442 2.456 2.591 2.617 2.559 051121 2.513 2.491 2.652 2.615 2.423 2.477 2.491 2.654 2.652 2.599 051114 2.602 2.565 2.699 2.689 2.500 2.575 2.585 2.766 2.738 2.717 051107 2.698 2.657 2.744 2.755 2.608 2.671 2.679 2.907 2.821 2.797 051031 2.876 2.784 2.834 2.848 2.753 2.907 2.846 3.079 2.951 2.936 051024 3.157 3.051 2.873 2.940 3.115 3.235 3.146 3.232 3.142 3.152 051017 3.148 3.116 2.913 2.966 3.199 3.144 3.177 3.178 3.178 3.210 051010 3.150 3.160 2.947 2.990 3.252 3.123 3.182 3.143 3.167 3.240 051003 3.144 3.198 3.012 3.040 3.283 3.083 3.185 3.079 3.174 3.262 050926 2.798 2.808 2.859 2.875 2.775 2.739 2.756 2.938 2.978 3.031 050919 2.732 2.749 2.804 2.846 2.702 2.648 2.677 2.902 2.985 3.060 050912 2.847 2.849 2.920 2.935 2.806 2.782 2.797 2.957 3.093 3.158 050905 2.898 2.900 2.977 2.993 2.853 2.843 2.833 2.976 3.149 3.250 050829 2.590 2.564 2.649 2.654 2.518 2.532 2.508 2.726 2.920 3.045 050822 2.588 2.564 2.642 2.654 2.519 2.540 2.512 2.679 2.897 3.037 050815 2.567 2.544 2.618 2.633 2.499 2.524 2.481 2.615 2.891 3.042 050808 2.407 2.386 2.492 2.484 2.334 2.336 2.323 2.486 2.801 2.943 050801 2.348 2.356 2.488 2.465 2.297 2.292 2.279 2.421 2.594 2.657 050725 2.342 2.365 2.508 2.481 2.303 2.292 2.278 2.405 2.530 2.578 050718 2.392 2.412 2.535 2.521 2.354 2.361 2.331 2.430 2.530 2.589 050711 2.408 2.427 2.533 2.524 2.377 2.384 2.355 2.408 2.526 2.589 050704 2.348 2.370 2.485 2.475 2.315 2.328 2.290 2.328 2.467 2.554 050627 2.336 2.368 2.476 2.461 2.318 2.314 2.288 2.288 2.433 2.522 050620 2.313 2.348 2.442 2.451 2.296 2.294 2.274 2.236 2.391 2.476 050613 2.276 2.308 2.399 2.399 2.261 2.248 2.247 2.210 2.364 2.457 050606 2.234 2.263 2.353 2.343 2.221 2.198 2.213 2.191 2.339 2.421 050530 2.160 2.188 2.320 2.284 2.134 2.111 2.117 2.179 2.317 2.367 050523 2.156 2.181 2.338 2.292 2.119 2.097 2.112 2.207 2.339 2.373 050516 2.189 2.204 2.380 2.315 2.141 2.129 2.141 2.267 2.397 2.432 050509 2.227 2.237 2.389 2.342 2.179 2.157 2.173 2.318 2.481 2.518 050502 2.262 2.264 2.410 2.366 2.207 2.194 2.209 2.355 2.530 2.561 050425 2.289 2.287 2.413 2.382 2.234 2.230 2.231 2.371 2.549 2.570 050418 2.259 2.260 2.418 2.373 2.197 2.194 2.180 2.37
Re: [MBZ] 126 300SD seats
Hans - while getting at the seat switches is a bit of work, the switches themselves are really not that hard to fix by careful disassembly, cleaning, and re-assembly. Same for the seat motors - I've found that lubricating the shafts and slides does wonders for those, too. Seat spring boxes are a common problem, as is a collapse of the padding. Leatherique makes enough 'stuff' to take care of most cover issues. Werner - Original Message - From: "Hans Neureiter" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: "Diesel" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Sent: Wednesday, January 04, 2006 11:40 AM Subject: [MBZ] 126 300SD seats I have a question concerning seats for my '82 300SD There is a set of perfect leather seats available for my car for cheap, except mine has power seats. These are not. The guy claims they will fit any 126, as long as it is not a xxL model, like a SDL. How much trouble is it, if possible, to use the upholstery on my frames if the rails don't fit ? I really don't care to much for power, considering my seats haven't worked in years. Both need new switches, which I have, and some new drive cables, which I have also. The passenger seat needs a connector on the wire harness coming from the door (PO cut it off). If I can go manual, all these parts + motors and gear rails will be available. -- Hans Neureiter, Houston, TX '82 300SD, '95 E300D ___ http://www.striplin.net For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/ For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED] To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://striplin.net/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_striplin.net
Re: [MBZ] Im sure glad the spark plugs are intact
Also note the copious rust almost all over, not to mention the MPG meter on the instrument cluster - usually a gasoline engine item, as I recall. Wonder how much can be believed about this "very good" car??? Werner - Original Message - From: "Kaleb C. Striplin" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: "Mercedes mailing list" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Sent: Wednesday, January 04, 2006 7:47 PM Subject: [MBZ] Im sure glad the spark plugs are intact http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=4600724195&rd=1&sspagename=STRK%3AMEWA%3AIT&rd=1 -- Kaleb C. Striplin/Claremore, OK 89 560SEL, 87 300SDL, 85 380SE, 85 300D, 84 250 LWB, 83 300TD, 81 300TD, 81 240D, 81 240D, 76 450SEL, 76 240D, 76 300D, 74 240D, 69 250 http://www.striplin.net ___ http://www.striplin.net For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/ For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED] To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://striplin.net/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_striplin.net
Re: [MBZ] Im sure glad the spark plugs are intact
Kaleb - So how did they make such an "mpg" meter on a car whose engine doesn't have a vacuum varied by throttle position? I suppose you could design one to work with a computer calculating fuel flow and road speed, but even that is pretty complex at best. Or cloodge up some bleed from the pumped vacuum lines? Maybe I've just become too suspicious of car for sale ads. Werner 83SD 210k miles 90D 220k miles - Original Message - From: "Kaleb C. Striplin" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: "Mercedes Discussion List" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Sent: Wednesday, January 04, 2006 8:16 PM Subject: Re: [MBZ] Im sure glad the spark plugs are intact all 140's had the mpg meter Werner Fehlauer wrote: Also note the copious rust almost all over, not to mention the MPG meter on the instrument cluster - usually a gasoline engine item, as I recall. Wonder how much can be believed about this "very good" car??? Werner - Original Message - From: "Kaleb C. Striplin" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: "Mercedes mailing list" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Sent: Wednesday, January 04, 2006 7:47 PM Subject: [MBZ] Im sure glad the spark plugs are intact http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=4600724195&rd=1&sspagename=STRK%3AMEWA%3AIT&rd=1 -- Kaleb C. Striplin/Claremore, OK 89 560SEL, 87 300SDL, 85 380SE, 85 300D, 84 250 LWB, 83 300TD, 81 300TD, 81 240D, 81 240D, 76 450SEL, 76 240D, 76 300D, 74 240D, 69 250 http://www.striplin.net ___ http://www.striplin.net For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/ For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED] To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://striplin.net/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_striplin.net ___ http://www.striplin.net For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/ For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED] To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://striplin.net/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_striplin.net -- Kaleb C. Striplin/Claremore, OK 89 560SEL, 87 300SDL, 85 380SE, 85 300D, 84 250 LWB, 83 300TD, 81 300TD, 81 240D, 81 240D, 76 450SEL, 76 240D, 76 300D, 74 240D, 69 250 http://www.striplin.net ___ http://www.striplin.net For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/ For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED] To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://striplin.net/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_striplin.net
Re: [MBZ] Im sure glad the spark plugs are intact
Lee - the pictures show a lot of rust in places that indicate a lot of salt exposure, or a lack of paint care, or both. With what they show on the outside, the underside probably is more of a project car than most people should try and fix, IMO. Werner - Original Message - From: "Lee Levitt" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: "'Mercedes Discussion List'" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Sent: Wednesday, January 04, 2006 8:35 PM Subject: Re: [MBZ] Im sure glad the spark plugs are intact Werner writes: Also note the copious rust almost all over, not to mention the MPG meter on the instrument cluster - usually a gasoline engine item, as I recall. Wonder how much can be believed about this "very good" car??? Werner Looks pretty clean for a 250K mile car, the usual wear, perhaps a bit more rust than one would expect. It will go for cheap. Wonder if it has any power. Oh, and it started life as a diesel, according to carfax. The story of this 1993 MERCEDES-BENZ 300SD (WDBGB34E5PA141147) according to our interpretation of the information reported to CARFAX: This sedan has had at least 6 owners. The first title for this sedan was reported to CARFAX by a Texas DMV in 1995. It was involved in an accident in Wisconsin that was reported to the police. (minor accident according to carfax, probably the driver's door, which doesn't match the rest of the car) It has had no DMV-reported total loss events, like a major accident, fire or flood. It has not been reported by a DMV as having an Exceeds Mechanical Limits or Not Actual Mileage title. CARFAX found an inconsistent odometer reading. CARFAX is uncertain whether this reading represents a rollback or a source-level clerical error. It was not reported by a DMV as a Manufacturer Buyback or LEMON. It has no recalls that still require repair. Go to the Detailed Vehicle History for the complete history and a glossary of terms. Lee - Original Message - From: "Kaleb C. Striplin" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: "Mercedes mailing list" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Sent: Wednesday, January 04, 2006 7:47 PM Subject: [MBZ] Im sure glad the spark plugs are intact > http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item= 4600724195&rd=1&sspagename=STRK%3AMEWA%3AIT&rd=1
Re: [MBZ] Preventative Maintenance Question
Randy - first, the more the vehicle is stored, the more maintenance that will be required to keep it reliable, IMO. Diesels are made to be driven, not parked! As for the timing chain, it should be checked the next time you adjust the valves (every 15,000 miles). If it was running well, starting readily when you put it away, it can probably wait until you next check the valve clearances. Fuel filters are very important, ESPECIALLY is the car has been sitting for several months with fuel in the system. Always carry a set of fuel filters with you - you never know when you'll get a bad load of fuel away from home. The hoses that connect the oil cooler and transmission coolers usually last a lifetime - but if you see dry cracks, or they seem brittle, then of course it wouldn't hurt to change them. Just be warned that fooling with the oil cooler can result in a broken cooler connection, so be hesitant. Finally, a good, reliable battery is required, so if its getting near 5 years old, replace it! Not only does it have to be good to do the glow cycle, but cranking over a cold engine with 20 or more to one compression is a big battery drain. )I'm assuming the glow plug system is in good condition?) This should give you a start on some maintenance ideas! Good luck.. Werner '83 SD 210k miles '90 D 220k miles - Original Message - From: "R A Bennell" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: "Mercedes Discussion List" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Sent: Thursday, January 05, 2006 3:07 PM Subject: [MBZ] Preventative Maintenance Question I bought my 76 300D in July of 05. I drove it about 1500 miles before putting it in the garage for the winter at the end of October. I'm wondering what I should plan to change in order to ensure, so far as possible, that I keep the vehicle alive for the foreseeable future. I guess that I am supposed to pull the valve (cam?) cover and check for chain stretch etc but I also wonder what else you folks would suggest that I change to avoid trouble. My main thought is a concern about things like the oil cooler hoses giving up and dumping my oil before I have a chance to shut down. A friend with a 74 240D suffered an engine failure earlier this year as the result of his oil pump failing (at least that was what he says happened but he is not mechanically inclined and has a shop do all of the work for him). Are there similar hoses relating to the auto tranny that need to be changed out as well? (I know I could look at the CD manual or crawl under the car and look but I thought you folks would know and I'm sitting in my warm office wasting time when I should be working. I'm self employed so no one cares but me anyway, I guess.) How about the flex disk in the driveshaft? Should something like that be changed or should I leave it until it appears to be failing? I would like this vehicle to be relatively safe to take far from home. We routinely travel to a lake that is 180 miles from home and I don't like the idea of having trouble and needing to leave my poor car along the road. I have a woosh-woosh sort of noise in the accessory belt area as well when the engine is cold. I think changing the belts would be a good start before looking any deeper there. So far I have only changed the oil and filter twice and the air filter once. I have done nothing else. I have yet to change any fuel filters or the like. The return hoses on the injectors were done shortly before I bought the car so they appear to be fine. So, tell me what you think, so I can order up some parts and do a little preventative work before I start driving it again in the spring. Randy
Re: [MBZ] Preventative Maintenance Question
Randy - there should be some maintenance records somewhere, but if the previous owner can't recall ever or when the valves were adjusted, and the mileage is some multiple of 15k, then it would hurt to think about doing that job. And since it involves removing the valve/cam cover, you can easily check the chain at that time. My experience with engines that have had proper oil and changes is that these engines can usually go 200k or more before chain replacement is indicated (by a stretch of 4-6 degrees, typically). For example, I just had the valves checked on my SD (210K miles) and the chain stretch was about 1.5 degrees.) I don't know that the 240 has a prefilter, but the 5 cylinders from 77 on have a small plastic filter before the primer pump, and if its the see-through version, you can see how the fuel looks right there. They are cheap, and it would be prudent to change those once a year, at least IMO. The big filter in the can usually lasts for 30k miles or so. And as long as the filters are working, there's no way that the injectors should ever get clogged. Speaking of injectors, a common maintenance issue is hardening and leaking fuel return lines. Easy to replace, just get about 3 ft of the hose from Rusty or your local dealer - pay particular attention to the end cap on the last injector. I'm assuming you have the M-B block heater? wouldn't hurt to plug it in for at least 30 minutes before you try and start it. Does wonders for ease of starting and longer battery life! Did we mention the rubber brake hoses at each wheel? when they get 10-15 years old, they can swell up inside and actually reduce or block fluid flow to that wheel's brakes. A cheap replacement before you flush the fluid (every 2 years) and before you take that long trip. And again, I wouldn't fool with the oil cooler lines unless you really think they are about to break. IMO, if they ain't broke, leave well enough alone! Werner - Original Message - From: "R A Bennell" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: "Mercedes Discussion List" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Sent: Thursday, January 05, 2006 5:47 PM Subject: Re: [MBZ] Preventative Maintenance Question -Original Message- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Behalf Of Werner Fehlauer Sent: Thursday, January 05, 2006 12:23 PM To: Mercedes Discussion List Subject: Re: [MBZ] Preventative Maintenance Question Randy - first, the more the vehicle is stored, the more maintenance that will be required to keep it reliable, IMO. Diesels are made to be driven, not parked! *** That probably is true but driving it around here in the salt that they put on the roads would not be good for it. Starting in the coldest weather would also be hard on it and me (but we have had a very mild winter so far.) As for the timing chain, it should be checked the next time you adjust the valves (every 15,000 miles). If it was running well, starting readily when you put it away, it can probably wait until you next check the valve clearances. *** I have yet to check the valves or anything else really. I just got it and it seems to start and run well so I have assumed things cannot be too far off the mark. However, I have no experience with MB Diesels and as such could be wrong. Fuel filters are very important, ESPECIALLY is the car has been sitting for several months with fuel in the system. Always carry a set of fuel filters with you - you never know when you'll get a bad load of fuel away from home. *** I note references to filters. So far as I have been able to tell I only have the one inside the metal container doodad. I understand there probably should be a prefilter in the line so will have to check further into that issue. Should change the one in the container and having some extras is probably good insurance. The father of a friend of my younger son had to leave his late model Ford F-250 diesel in Sioux Falls SD just before Xmas to be repaired after getting a bad tank of fuel. If I understand correctly it clogged the injectors and the truck had to be towed to a dealer and have some cleaning work done before it could be brought home. An expensive fix plus two extra trips to have his wife pick him up to get home and then to go back for it. The hoses that connect the oil cooler and transmission coolers usually last a lifetime - but if you see dry cracks, or they seem brittle, then of course it wouldn't hurt to change them. Just be warned that fooling with the oil cooler can result in a broken cooler connection, so be hesitant. *** Damned if you do and damned if you don't. Which is the safer course??? Finally, a good, reliable battery is required, so if its getting near 5 years old, replace it! Not only does it have to be good to do the glow cycle, but cranking over a cold engine with 20 or more to one compression is a big b
Re: [MBZ] SUPERCOOL MOG CAMPER
For you listers that don't read "Mercedes Enthusiast" out of the U.K., the January 2006 issue has an article about the "ultimate" Unimog - specially built and prepared by Brabus. Here's the specs: 6.4 Liter straight 6 turboDiesel 280hP @ 2200 rpm, 811 lb-ft 1200-1600 rpm; 8 forward and 8 reverse gears, with a 2 range transfer case so that you have 24 forward and 24 reverse gearrs; In lowest gear, rated to pull 1100 Tonnes; can handle a 45degree slope; max speed 78 mph; Tires (spelled tyres in the U.K.) 445/70R24, on 13Jx24 rims; Weight: 8000 lbs; 12V and 24V DC power points, for the 20 ton hydraulic winch; Big stereo system, M class Comand display; very plush inside; Aluminum body, Stainless roll bas, etc.; cost: 230,000 Euros. First one is in Dubai; second one to be built in January 06. Werner (with very small '83SD, and smaller '90D 2.5!)
Re: [MBZ] Tire Qualiy
How about the possibility that with more horsepower and torque these days, tires may be getting a lot more stress?? Werner - Original Message - From: "Tom Scordato" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: "Mercedes Discussion List" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Sent: Friday, January 06, 2006 6:40 PM Subject: [MBZ] Tire Qualiy Is it me or are tires not lasting as long as they did? I seem to remember getting more mileage (and more even wear) from Michelin, Goodyear ect. all season radial tires in general on many types of sedan and station wagon vehicles in the mid to late 1980 when this country was on a quality push. My mechanic said the same thing, tires over the last 5 years or so are not lasting as long. Not just on the MB I have but he say in general across the board. I have no scientific proof but... Your thoughts? Regards Tom Scordato Bellefonte PA
Re: [MBZ] anybody with a 603 3.5?
Kaleb - you would probably be better off with a '90 or '91 126 Diesel rather than an early 140, as the bigger car will cost more to maintain and operate, IMO. Our past section president here has an mid year S500, and has put a lot of $$$ into repairing the self-leveling suspension. Its fast, yes, but fuel economy isn't good. As for bent rods, most of the stories I've seen is that if you either get past 150k miles, or have a factory reman engine, you'll probably be OK with the 3.5. Didn't I see a nice 126 3.5 on the list last week? Werner - Original Message - From: "Kaleb C. Striplin" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: "Mercedes mailing list" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Sent: Sunday, January 08, 2006 9:46 AM Subject: [MBZ] anybody with a 603 3.5? How many folks here have a 3.5 in a 140, well, or a 126? Bent rods? Thinking about looking for another 140 in the near future and am really concidering a 3.5 and risking the rods bending. If not that I would either go with the next economical choice of a 320 with the 104 or most likely all out with a 500. Anybody got a 500 and if so what sort of mileage do you get? Probably better off going this route over the diesel anyways. -- Kaleb C. Striplin/Claremore, OK 89 560SEL, 87 300SDL, 85 380SE, 85 300D, 84 250 LWB, 83 300TD, 81 300TD, 81 240D, 81 240D, 76 450SEL, 76 240D, 76 300D, 74 240D, 69 250 http://www.striplin.net ___ http://www.striplin.net For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/ For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED] To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://striplin.net/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_striplin.net
Re: [MBZ] I found a 126
Wow! replacing so many parts that for most last around 200k miles seems either odd or the previous owner was obsessive about maintenance. Sounds like this is as close to "new" that you can get in a used car Werner - Original Message - From: "Donald Snook" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Sent: Sunday, January 08, 2006 2:13 PM Subject: [MBZ] I found a 126 I found a VERY nice 1990 300SEL and am buying it. 122K miles -- perfect condition, TONS of maintenance records, major suspension overall done less than 20,000 miles ago. I have been scouring Ebay, Edmunds, my local paper, etc to find a really nice 126. I wanted an 87 300SDL but a low mileage version is priced WAY too high and the ones that are reasonably priced are turds. I am sure there are exceptions to this blanket statement, but that is what I have found. Because I couldn't find a diesel version, I took a leap of faith and got a gasser. Here is a list of everything the PO has done in the last 18 months. New hood star, grille insert, headlight doors, and emblem (installed by me). New steering shock. New valve cover gasket. Complete front brakes (calipers, pads, rotors, fluid lines, front wheel bearings). Recent Bridgestone tires. Thermostat housing and thermostat. Blaupunkt San Diego CD32 CD/Radio. Vacuum pump (for door locks). Shifter bushings. Brake fluid pipes to rear brakes. New shock absorbers. Flex disk on drive shaft. A/C - new auxiliary fans, dryer, hose from dryer to expansion valve. Headlight wiper blades. Alignment, front pads at 102K. New thrust arm bearings (left & right). New lower ball joints and ABS sending units (left & right). New tie rod assemblies (left & right). New upper control arms (left & right). New center link. New transmission cooler lines. New lower control arm bushings (left & right). New thrust arm mount bushings (left & right). New radiator. New A/C compressor clutch. New windshield wiper transmission New alternator I can't really see anything else this car might need. Any suggestions? Donald H. Snook 1990 300SEL 122K arriving shortly.
Re: [MBZ] 240 vs SD Go Trucks
Amen! I also have close to a million miles of driving, some in mid size trucks, but mostly in cars. And over 5000 miles in Europe, at speed. Without a doubt, its crazy car driving that is the worst problem on our roads, especially cutting in and out on the interstates and city beltways, OFTEN without enough clearance to safely change lanes. When dicing with a big semi, that can spell disaster, with the truck getting the headlines and blame. Besides a good 5 cent cigar, we really need a good driver training and licensing program! Werner - Original Message - From: "Fmiser" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: "Mercedes Discussion List" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Sent: Sunday, January 08, 2006 3:33 PM Subject: Re: [MBZ] 240 vs SD Go Trucks rumor has it that Tom wrote: Bill R said "almost blown off the road by an 18 wheeler. About as scared as I ever got" Spout off time... Now for the other side... For reference, I have logged over 300,000 miles in a big truck. I have driven nearly 1,000,000 total. The trucking industry is out of control. The worse the weather the faster they go. Route 80 which is a big interstate (NY to San Fran) is closed almost weekly in PA now due to accidents which involve trucks. How many of those are the fault of the car? Just because a truck was involved does _not_ mean that the truck is to blame. The view from the drivers seat in a big truck during heavy traffic reminds me of trying to walk with a dozen happy puppies trying to greet me. I'm afraid I'll step on one if I try to move. Basically a free for all. I read US traffic from trucks has increased 100% in the last 10 years. I have tried to talk to some of these garage haulers. From what I've seen, the quantity of dangerous drivers is much higher in cars than it big trucks. Sure, there are maniac truck drivers. And a 40 ton truck driven by a maniac _is_ scarier than a maniac-driven Fiero. Some of these guys/gals are traveling 600 to 700 miles a day, 6 to 7 days a week Yup. But there's nothing inherently dangerous about driving for 12 hours a day. And when the job pays by the mile, who would not want to squeeze as many mile as practical? Add to that the nutty scheduling that dispatches hand out, plus shippers and receivers that pay _no_ attention to the amount of wasted driver's time. Here's a typical situation. Dispatch says "I have a 500 mile load for you. Pick appointment is 8AM, delivery appointment is 8PM" That's about 10 hrs of driving and 12 hr to do it. No problem! So I arrive and check in at the shippers at 7:30. At 8:45 I'm assigned a door. At 8:50 I "bump the dock". Two pallets are loaded, but then it's 9:00 and break time. At 9:30 they start loading again. At 10:00, the truck is loaded, but the office is slow and it's nearly 10:30 by the time I have the papers and am pulling out of the yard. Now I have 9.5 hours to get there. Well, if I don't eat and there's no traffic,or bad weather, or construction I'll be fine. I call ahead to the receiver to see how tight the appointment is. They often say "You can't show up more than 1 hour early, and if you're more than 15 minutes late we'll have to reschedule you for tomorrow or the next day." Missing an appointment is bad. Not only might I have to waste a day or more, it could also result it penalties for me and/or the company I drive for. I'll quickly point out that I think staying alive is worth more than 2 days wages, loosing a customer, and lost bonuses - but it is motivation to keep moving!!! and they drive those things like Porsches. Big difference in rig weighing 100,000lbs doing 80 mph and my 240D at less than two tons doing 70 mph. No, not like a Porsche! Trust me, a 240D with an tired engine and a automatic transmission is _much_ quicker than a typical big truck!! Top speed may be faster, but acceleration with a load is slw, even with a souped-up "large car". One consequence is that a truck driver is often reluctant to slow down because it can take so long to get back up to speed. (One truck I drove, with a full load on level ground would take more than 1.5 miles to go from 50 mph to 60 mph) Add to that the frustration of lost momentum at the bottom of a hill that can result in losing 4 gears on the climb rather than 1 gear - all because an "idiot 4-wheeler" was doing something stupid. Something will need to be done about this nightmare...satellite tracking of each truck to measure/report speed is one answer, but how do you do you handle the three inches from your but stuff? Let's do that to the cars. There are _lots_ more over-speed cars than over-speed trucks. Maybe separate roads? Good idea. Let the big trucks do their job and keep the jerks in the cars away! Only one good trucking outfit which drives correctly that I see, JB Hunt !!!!!! and they have become the brunt of all the other truckers jokes. Swift, Schneider, and Roadway get their share. Unless a highway merge is taking place, they shoul
Re: [MBZ] From the Sunday KC Star - CARS!
That 560 SEC sounds like what Kaleb needs - he's got a lot of spares, and its a great one/two person car! Werner - Original Message - From: "Christopher McCann" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Sent: Sunday, January 08, 2006 3:33 PM Subject: [MBZ] From the Sunday KC Star - CARS! 1984 190D, auto, 40+mpg, red, $2300, 816-377-8475 300D, 1986, needs tranny, $700 obo, 816-619-9160 300E , 1993, 2.8, lthr, snrf, xtra clean, $5,600 816-470-5211 450 SLC (drool), 1975 coupe, 113K miles, V8, classic, good cond, $4,100/obo, 816-792-5544 450 SL, 1978, 2 tops, runs exc, $4,900, 816-868-6206 500 SL, 1988, both tops, red/tan, 65K, great cond, $26,500, 816-214-8723 560 SEC (drool), 1991, coupe, VGC, $6,250, 913-645-1511 and alot of other modern stuff no affiliation Chris Christopher McCann, Squier Park, Kansas City, Missouri -2005 Blue Point Siamese, "Rose" -1987 300TD, 151K, "Rotkäppchen" -1985 300SD, 210K, "Wulf" -1976 240D, ?K, "AKP-Wagen" (Alternativen Kraftstoffs Prüfenlastwagen) -1972 Jacobsen 21" Turbo Vent -1971 Case 222 Hydrive, 12HP Kohler, 38" deck, Snowcaster, "One Banger" - Yahoo! Photos Got holiday prints? See all the ways to get quality prints in your hands ASAP. ___ http://www.striplin.net For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/ For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED] To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://striplin.net/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_striplin.net
Re: [MBZ] I found a 126
Donald - if he's any good at pipe organs, then he is a meticulous guy. And as long as he had adequate cash on hand, it certainly was nice of him to just open his wallet and throw new parts at the car. My only question would be IF there was a need to do a lot of this work, then the car either had a rolled back odometer, or the car was abused, or he had a fast talking shade tree "mechanic" giving him advice. In any case, you benefit from his largesse! (you did do a VIN check, right?) Werner - Original Message - From: "Donald Snook" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Sent: Sunday, January 08, 2006 4:04 PM Subject: Re: [MBZ] I found a 126 Werner wrote: "Wow! replacing so many parts that for most last around 200k miles seems either odd or the previous owner was obsessive about maintenance. Sounds like this is as close to "new" that you can get in a used car" I agree that many of the parts seem premature. I asked him about this. He said he bought the car three years ago with 76,000 miles. He said he always wanted a LWB 126 and set about turning it into a perfect car. He and his wife quit their old jobs and started (are you ready for this) a church organ business. Isn't that wild? At any rate, he said his business has taken off and he is traveling to construction sites and trying to use his wife's mini-van for hauling stuff. So, he is replacing the benz with an SUV that can haul and tow and drive around construction sites with pipe-organ parts. He said when he started the suspension work, he was just going to do shocks. He ended up rebuilding the entire suspension because if you are going to do part of it, you might as well do it all. Great philosophy for a previous owner (I mean great for me). Donald H. Snook
Re: [MBZ] From the Sunday KC Star - CARS!
Andrew - that's why the '91 SEC looked like a lot more useable set of wheels. By the late '80s, M-B had figured out how to make cars a lot more rust proof, and with some care, they can last a long time. That, and the 5.6 engine was pretty much bug-free by '91. Now if it came with a Diesel engine. Werner - Original Message - From: "andrew strasfogel" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: "Mercedes Discussion List" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Sent: Monday, January 09, 2006 3:11 PM Subject: Re: [MBZ] From the Sunday KC Star - CARS! Chris, I have spend s restoring a rusty 78 SLC and although the prior spouse and I felt it was a pretty car (gray-blue with a parchment interior), it simply didn't last due to rust issues and the 200K mile limit on the valves in that gas guzzling V8 engine. Also, their declining market value makes it an unwise car to attempt to restore. For these reasons, you ought to be able to find a decent beater for $3K. On 1/9/06, Christopher McCann <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote: they look really cool, IMO Chris andrew strasfogel <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote: Why would anyone drool over a money pit car like an SL C? They are commonly available and dirt cheap, and their value seems only to be heading in a downward spiral. On 1/8/06, Werner Fehlauer wrote: > > That 560 SEC sounds like what Kaleb needs - he's got a lot of spares, and > its a great one/two person car! > Werner > > - Original Message - > From: "Christopher McCann" > To: > Sent: Sunday, January 08, 2006 3:33 PM > Subject: [MBZ] From the Sunday KC Star - CARS! > > > 1984 190D, auto, 40+mpg, red, $2300, 816-377-8475 > > 300D, 1986, needs tranny, $700 obo, 816-619-9160 > > 300E , 1993, 2.8, lthr, snrf, xtra clean, $5,600 816-470-5211 > > 450 SLC (drool), 1975 coupe, 113K miles, V8, classic, good cond, > $4,100/obo, 816-792-5544 > > 450 SL, 1978, 2 tops, runs exc, $4,900, 816-868-6206 > > 500 SL, 1988, both tops, red/tan, 65K, great cond, $26,500, 816-214-8723 > > 560 SEC (drool), 1991, coupe, VGC, $6,250, 913-645-1511 > > and alot of other modern stuff > > no affiliation > > Chris > > > > > Christopher McCann, Squier Park, Kansas City, Missouri > -2005 Blue Point Siamese, "Rose" > -1987 300TD, 151K, "Rotkäppchen" > -1985 300SD, 210K, "Wulf" > -1976 240D, ?K, "AKP-Wagen" (Alternativen Kraftstoffs Prüfenlastwagen) > -1972 Jacobsen 21" Turbo Vent > -1971 Case 222 Hydrive, 12HP Kohler, 38" deck, Snowcaster, "One Banger" > > - > Yahoo! Photos > Got holiday prints? See all the ways to get quality prints in your hands > ASAP. > ___ > http://www.striplin.net > For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/ > For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED] > > To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: > http://striplin.net/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_striplin.net > > > > ___ > http://www.striplin.net > For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/ > For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED] > > To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: > http://striplin.net/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_striplin.net > ___ http://www.striplin.net For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/ For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED] To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://striplin.net/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_striplin.net Christopher McCann, Squier Park, Kansas City, Missouri -2005 Blue Point Siamese, "Rose" -1987 300TD, 151K, "Rotkäppchen" -1985 300SD, 210K, "Wulf" -1976 240D, ?K, "AKP-Wagen" (Alternativen Kraftstoffs Prüfenlastwagen) -1972 Jacobsen 21" Turbo Vent -1971 Case 222 Hydrive, 12HP Kohler, 38" deck, Snowcaster, "One Banger" - Yahoo! Photos Got holiday prints? See all the ways to get quality prints in your hands ASAP. ___ http://www.striplin.net For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/ For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED] To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://striplin.net/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_striplin.net ___ http://www.striplin.net For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/ For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED] To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://striplin.net/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_striplin.net
Re: [MBZ] Of interest to dieselheads
The 3.2 V-6 CDI engine has been out in Europe for almost a year already. And they expect that the US market will have low sulphur fuel by summer 2006, ahead of the federally mandated 2007 deadline. I'm also expecting the ML CDI as well as S-class 4.0 V-8 CDIs before long. You might recall that the recent records made with the CDIs in the US have been with imported fuel! Werner - Original Message - From: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Sent: Monday, January 09, 2006 3:47 PM Subject: [MBZ] Of interest to dieselheads Not that any would open their purses far enough to buy one of these, of course, but even so. DETROIT SHOW: DaimlerChrysler plans big diesel boost DaimlerChrysler plans to achieve a breakthrough in North America's barely-existent diesel car market by launching a new range of Mercedes-Benz and Chrysler models using what it claims will be the world's cleanest diesel-engine technology, the Financial Times (FT) reported. The paper said the first car to use the technology, which DaimlerChrysler is calling Bluetec, will be launched in autumn this year as the Mercedes-Benz E320 Bluetec. Mercedes has recently rolled out a line of state-of-the-art common rail, direct injected new V6 diesel engines for its cars in Europe. These are also installed in Austrian-built Chrysler and Jeep models. DaimlerChysler executives at the Detroit motor show told the FT on Sunday (8 January) yesterday that the launch would be the start of a group-wide initiative to promote diesel through the US. Mercedes and Volkswagen are currently the major players but can’t sell their diesel models in states that have adopted the more stringent ‘California’ emission rules because the engines don’t comply. DaimlerChrysler recently starting selling the Jeep Liberty (Cherokee for export) in most US states. Demand has far exceeded supply and the company has recently had to crank up output for the US market. The diesel Liberty/Cherokee, first sold in Europe, has an Italian-made VM 2.8-litre four-cylinder turbodiesel and manual or automatic transmissions. The FT noted that the US currently only has about 4m diesel cars compared with a new car market of about 15m annually. The new Mercedes models would offer the potential to meet the most stringent emissions regulations worldwide and, unlike the current E320CDi, the Liberty and some VW diesel models, be approved for sale in all 50 states. The Financial Times said the initiative comes at a time when North American consumers are likely to be more willing to accept diesel-engine cars. The past year's surge in fuel prices, occasionally breaking US$3 per gallon, has focused much more attention on fuel economy in a country long used to cheap fuel. Diesel engines typically are at least 20 per cent more economical than petrol-powered equivalents, the FT noted. Dieter Zetsche, chairman of DaimlerChrysler and head of the Mercedes Car Group, told the FT that, while the technology had been developed by Mercedes-Benz, it would be shared fully with Chrysler. Both the Mercedes-Benz model and a concept version of Chrysler's Jeep Grand Cherokee sports-utility vehicle were unveiled at the show. However, while claiming that the vehicles are capable of being the most fuel-efficient and cleanest diesel passenger vehicles in their segments in the US, executives reportedly acknowledged that for the technology to work to full efficiency it would require diesel with a sulphur content of less than 15 parts per million. Such fuel has been introduced throughout Europe and is expected to become available in the US at about the same time as the first Bluetec Mercedes in the autumn, the FT added. Bluetec is a combination of technologies for passenger cars and light trucks to reduce all relevant emissions, the Financial Times said. ___ http://www.striplin.net For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/ For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED] To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://striplin.net/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_striplin.net
Re: [MBZ] Does this mean Mobil 1 will be replaced?
Folks, the function of oil in an engine is twofold: to lubricate, and more importantly to a turboDiesel, to cool the pistons and cylinder walls. Without oil being sprayed on the undersides of pistons, they would probably melt if running under heavy loads. Solid lubricants don't mention how they would solve this cooling problem Werner - Original Message - From: "Craig McCluskey" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: "Harry Watkins" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>; "Mercedes Discussion List" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Sent: Monday, January 09, 2006 10:53 PM Subject: Re: [MBZ] Does this mean Mobil 1 will be replaced? On Mon, 9 Jan 2006 15:52:14 -0600 "Harry Watkins" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote: http://www.physorg.com/news8947.html I wish I was smart enough to understand it all, but I am not. The article to which you must be referring is at http://www.isracast.com/tech_news/201204_tech.htm. The short answer is, "No, Mobil 1 will not be replaced yet." The long answer: New engines may be able to be manufactured and run such that they don't use any oil. It depends upon contamination, particularly with the particulates related to diesel. Older engines will still have to use oil. It may be that Mobil 1 will have the inorganic Fullerine-like nanoparticles added to reduce friction. They will be small enough to flow through filters, unlike the teflon oil additives. Craig
Re: [MBZ] Sources for component repairs
Jim - I don't see any "Word" files - just many "jpg" pictures, all apparently related to 3.5 Diesels! Werner - Original Message - From: "Jim Cathey" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: "Mercedes Discussion List" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Sent: Tuesday, January 10, 2006 11:08 AM Subject: Re: [MBZ] Sources for component repairs www.scaffolding.com/mb It's a Word file. People with Macs that do not wish to have anything to do with Bill Gates getting any richer or Microsoft's wretched virus-ware don't do Word. Got PDF? RTF? HTML? Text-only? -- Jim ___ http://www.striplin.net For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/ For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED] To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://striplin.net/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_striplin.net
Re: [MBZ] Does this mean Mobil 1 will be replaced?
Hendrik - its fairly certain that aluminum can't survive in cylinders without cooling jets of oil. But the work on ceramic cylinder parts, including pistons may provide some solution. Wonder what they will do for rings that can stand really high temperatures? More ceramics?? Werner - Original Message - From: "Hendrik Riessen" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: "Mercedes Discussion List" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Sent: Monday, January 09, 2006 11:20 PM Subject: Re: [MBZ] Does this mean Mobil 1 will be replaced? Advanced metals should be able to dissapate heat better than old type metals. Saw a video a while back of an M60 machine gun (Oh no I got them going on guns again) firing for 90 seconds non stop. The manufacturers of the advanced barrels claim that they can put 20,000 rounds through it before needing to service it. So if gun metals are advancing I see no reason that metals in an engine will not follow. Although I would say at this stage cost is a factor. Hendrik - Original Message - From: "Werner Fehlauer" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: "Mercedes Discussion List" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Sent: Tuesday, January 10, 2006 2:35 PM Subject: Re: [MBZ] Does this mean Mobil 1 will be replaced? Folks, the function of oil in an engine is twofold: to lubricate, and more importantly to a turboDiesel, to cool the pistons and cylinder walls. Without oil being sprayed on the undersides of pistons, they would probably melt if running under heavy loads. Solid lubricants don't mention how they would solve this cooling problem Werner - Original Message - From: "Craig McCluskey" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: "Harry Watkins" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>; "Mercedes Discussion List" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Sent: Monday, January 09, 2006 10:53 PM Subject: Re: [MBZ] Does this mean Mobil 1 will be replaced? On Mon, 9 Jan 2006 15:52:14 -0600 "Harry Watkins" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote: http://www.physorg.com/news8947.html I wish I was smart enough to understand it all, but I am not. The article to which you must be referring is at http://www.isracast.com/tech_news/201204_tech.htm. The short answer is, "No, Mobil 1 will not be replaced yet." The long answer: New engines may be able to be manufactured and run such that they don't use any oil. It depends upon contamination, particularly with the particulates related to diesel. Older engines will still have to use oil. It may be that Mobil 1 will have the inorganic Fullerine-like nanoparticles added to reduce friction. They will be small enough to flow through filters, unlike the teflon oil additives. Craig
Re: [MBZ] I've got a long drive PLUS I need a name
Chris - was that "Tschuss" supposed to be the platdeutsch word for goodbye? If so, It is usually pronounced more like "juice", with a hard "J", and comes from the Northern German colloquial language called "plat", and probably has its root in the French word "adieu". You hear it all the time when speaking with the "natives" from Holland over to East of Lubeck. Just a bit of arcane language info Werner - Original Message - From: "Christopher McCann" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: "Mercedes Discussion List" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Sent: Wednesday, January 11, 2006 4:07 PM Subject: Re: [MBZ] I've got a long drive PLUS I need a name Tchuss, Chris
Re: [MBZ] WOW, may the crack runeth over
Wonder why the guy didn't list heated seats being in this S-Class (NOT E!)? (note the extra set of switches in the center console). Also, I didn't think the '84s had airbags - at least my '84SD did not. And red floor mats in a grey interior car look like something is being covered up, too. Werner - Original Message - From: "Sunil Hari" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: "Mercedes Discussion List" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Sent: Wednesday, January 11, 2006 3:47 PM Subject: Re: [MBZ] WOW, may the crack runeth over you think it might have some suspension issues? On 1/11/06, Kaleb C. Striplin <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote: I hadnt noticed but yes, it IS on blocks. Curt Raymond wrote: > Looks like its up on concrete blocks... Thats wierd. > > -Curt > > Date: Tue, 10 Jan 2006 20:16:00 -0600 > From: "Kaleb C. Striplin" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> > Subject: [MBZ] WOW, may the crack runeth over > To: Banned List <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>, Mercedes mailing list > <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> > Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> > Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii; format=flowed > > http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Mercedes-Benz-E-Class-1984-ELITE-CLASS-SEI-MERCEDES-BENZ_W0QQitemZ4603608684QQcategoryZ6335QQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem -- Kaleb C. Striplin/Claremore, OK 89 560SEL, 87 300SDL, 85 380SE, 85 300D, 84 250 LWB, 83 300TD, 81 300TD, 81 240D, 81 240D, 76 450SEL, 76 240D, 76 300D, 74 240D, 69 250 http://www.striplin.net ___ http://www.striplin.net For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/ For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED] To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://striplin.net/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_striplin.net -- Sunil Hari [EMAIL PROTECTED] 513-205-7474 ___ http://www.striplin.net For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/ For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED] To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://striplin.net/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_striplin.net
Re: [MBZ] greetings, newbie here
TimC - welcome to the list - I too have an '83SD, now with 210k miles. This car has had a 'flare' on the 3-4 shift for the last 20k miles, and it has been diagnosed as a worn clutch pack. One worn clutch pack wouldn't affect the other shifts, IMO. Getting the vacuum controls to work right can be a pain, and often the plastic switch on top of the engine valve cover is a good place to start with your checks. For now, I just try very hard to lift my right foot when it goes to shift the 3-4,and otherwise the tranny works just fine - perhaps too tight on the 1-2 and 2-3 shifts, especially when cold (that's pretty normal, AFAIK). But its on my list of things to do to get it rebuilt, as I intend to keep the car for many years. Werner '83SD 210k miles '90D 220k miles - Original Message - From: "Tim C" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Sent: Wednesday, January 11, 2006 10:16 PM Subject: [MBZ] greetings, newbie here Hello M-B folks, My name is Tim Clark and I have recently acquired an 83 300SD. I have a question on it and a fellow Rennlister (a glance at my email will reveal my other automotive "prior commitment" - all 10 of my allotted email addresses are in use for the time being, so this will have to suffice) referred me here, which is excellent as I found the Benzworld forums to be not quite as useful as I had hoped. Mr. Dave Gilmore (said R'lister) already replied with one take on my question, but I'd now like to cut/paste said question here and see what additional insights are generated. Original question, slightly edited for this presentation: I recently purchased an 83 300SD, approx 260k miles. Transmission slips on 2-3 shift - but all other shifts are solid and positive, both up and down - and the 3-2 (edit - corrected from "4-3" which isn't the shift in question, oops) downshift is also solid. My question is, if only the one shift is bad, is this likely to be an adjustment issue? I would expect if clutch pack wear was involved, other shifts would be off too - in other words, how likely is it that one clutch pack is toast while the others are totally fine (my impression is there are separate clutch packs for each gear - this is my first auto-trans car in quite awhile so please forgive ignorance there)? The car came with sporadic records (well-documented for a few years at a time, then nothing for a while), so I'm not sure if anything has been done to the tranny - another question is, how long should these go before some service is required - how likely is it that the tranny may have already received attention at some point? Finally, if anyone can shed light on how auto transmissions work/what can be adjusted (pre-electronic trannies that is), I'd appreciate it much. Here's Dave's reply to avoid duplication of info: "Mine does this too when cold. I have read a K-1 spring kit solves the problem and it can be installed while the trans is in the car. Rusty at www.buymbparts.com/ or 800-741-5252 likely can provide it. When I first got my car I changed to Mobile 1 ATF and that almost cured it. I plan to try the K-1 deal next. Mine has 75,000 on it. I have read the transmission in these cars usually last about 200,000 miles before a rebuild, although some people get more. The adjustment procedure is complicated because of the vacuum interaction. I suggest a fluid & filter change along with careful adjustment to the MB specs before doing anything radical. The adjustment does alter the firmness of all the shifts. That is why I am suspecting the K-1 in our cases." Oh, and I checked the records I have - the tranny fluid was changed about 7k miles ago, but no filter - I assume this is just like changing the oil without changing the filter - basically pointless? So might be a good place to start Thanks in advance, Tim 88 944 (reasonably good shape, needs a few things) 83 300SD (needs paint on roof, missing a/c, pretty much everything works, runs strongly)
Re: [MBZ] 1982 Mercedes 300SD Wagon - Power Steering pump failure.
Michael - is it possible that in your 'flush' that you got a big air bubble in the system, so that the pump doesn't move any oil? I have noticed that some people try and replace all the old oil by opening up the return line until the engine pumps all the oil out - while the usual practice at the dealer is to just use a big syringe to remove all the oil from the reservoir, replace the filter and refill. Doesn't get all the old oil out, but then neither does changing the engine oil do a 100% change! (almost impossible to get out the oil in the oil cooler, so an engine oil change usually amounts to about an 85-90% change). If you tried to remove all the oil, you might want to temporarily remove the return line to see if any oil is flowing at all. Just make sure to have a big can under the hose, and that the person that's starting the engine knows how to shut it off quickly!).. Oh, and I don't think there's anything wrong with using ATF - I've had Mobil1 ATF in both my power steering systems for many years, with no problems at all! Werner - Original Message - From: "MICHAEL ESH" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: "Mercedes Discussion List" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Sent: Thursday, January 12, 2006 7:24 AM Subject: Re: [MBZ] 1982 Mercedes 300SD Wagon - Power Steering pump failure. No Problem before the flush Flush may be the wrong term - refilled with fresh as the old was going out. Filled with ATF Is a TD, my mistake. Thanks - Original Message - From: "John Berryman" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: "Mercedes Discussion List" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Sent: Wednesday, January 11, 2006 10:14 PM Subject: Re: [MBZ] 1982 Mercedes 300SD Wagon - Power Steering pump failure. On Wednesday, Jan 11, 2006, at 20:21 US/Eastern, MICHAEL ESH wrote: So is my only option to replace? Any trouble shooting ideas? It may just have sludge in the pump intake port. Was there a problem prior to your flush and refill? what did you flush it with? Buy a used one from Klebbie. Rumour has it he ships same day. I'll sell you one if he won't. I'd like to see a picture of that 300SD wagon. I'm assuming it should read TD. Johnny B I Mac Therefore I am
Re: [MBZ] Power Steering pump failure.
Constantine - I'll take the bait and argue your supposition that there is some kind of "magic" engineering in Mercedes-Benz PS pumps that require special "snake oil". My '90 D has now gone for over 130,000 miles on ATF (put in by a major dealer originally, and subsequently changed by me every 30k with Mobil1 synthetic). No leaks, and no problems. I've also changed out the PS oil in my daughter's '77 300D, my '84SD, and my '83SD. All work just fine. And I'll live with the superior cold flow characteristics and high temperature compatibility of Mobil1 any day over whatever dino oil they were thinking of many years ago in Stuttgart. Sorry, but I just won't buy the argument that some old Mercedes spec has to be followed, perhaps just because their engineers either hadn't heard of Synthetic ATF or they hadn't personally tested it first. And Mobil1 will NOT cause O-rings and seals that normally are exposed to an oil, to swell and leak as some urban legend will opine. Werner - Original Message - From: "Constantine N. Polites" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Sent: Thursday, January 12, 2006 4:16 PM Subject: [MBZ] Power Steering pump failure. I just finished rebuilding my tandem pump. I sent part of the work out because I didn't have the right puller. The Vickers pumps made for MB require a special hydraulic oil. If you use ATF fluid, eventually there will be a failure both internally and externally. Internally, the "O" rings will swell and restrict flow. Externally, the main seal will deteriorate and you will have a leak. That leak will also keep the main bearing from being properly lubricated and again you will have a mechanical failure. I'd look first of all at the tiny "O" rings. If they are swollen replace them. Even though I did use the proper hydraulic oil, apparently the PO didn't. So I experienced the above conditions. This may have nothing to do with your conditions but it may help. Regards, Constantine ___ http://www.striplin.net For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/ For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED] To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://striplin.net/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_striplin.net
Re: [MBZ] I've got a long drive PLUS I need a name
Chris - what part of 'North Germany'? My family hails from Hamburg and Schleswig-Holstein. But my wife has relatives in the South - not Bavarian, but "Schwabian" country, which includes Stuttgart. I find that South of Frankfurt, it is usual when entering a business or even greeting someone to start with "Gruss Göt", but I don't recall hearing that much North of Hanover. Regional dialects in Germany are as strong and varied, perhaps even more so than we have here in the states. But the more formal "high German" auf wiedersehn is often just shortened to "jüs" as you get closer to the North Sea, especially among family and friends. Werner - Original Message - From: "Christopher McCann" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: "Mercedes Discussion List" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Sent: Thursday, January 12, 2006 7:33 PM Subject: Re: [MBZ] I've got a long drive PLUS I need a name I picked it up from a friend who studied German and my friend's fiance came back from Stuttgart and said it constantly...so I think it must have spread all over Germany now. Interesting to know the origin, though. Being from the north of Germany, I better not say it in Bavaria without first consulting my friend. They are pretty independent and take words from other parts of Germany (esp. Prussia) VERY seriously. Auf Wiedersehen (official) Chris Werner Fehlauer <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote: Chris - was that "Tschuss" supposed to be the platdeutsch word for goodbye? If so, It is usually pronounced more like "juice", with a hard "J", and comes from the Northern German colloquial language called "plat", and probably has its root in the French word "adieu". You hear it all the time when speaking with the "natives" from Holland over to East of Lubeck. Just a bit of arcane language info Werner - Original Message - From: "Christopher McCann" To: "Mercedes Discussion List" Sent: Wednesday, January 11, 2006 4:07 PM Subject: Re: [MBZ] I've got a long drive PLUS I need a name Tchuss, Chris ___ http://www.striplin.net For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/ For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED] To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://striplin.net/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_striplin.net Christopher McCann, Squier Park, Kansas City, Missouri -2005 Blue Point Siamese, "Rose" -1987 300TD, 151K, "Rotkäppchen" -1985 300SD, 210K, "Wulf" -1976 240D, ?K, "AKP-Wagen" (Alternativen Kraftstoffs Prüfenlastwagen) -1972 Jacobsen 21" Turbo Vent -1971 Case 222 Hydrive, 12HP Kohler, 38" deck, Snowcaster, "One Banger" - Yahoo! Photos Ring in the New Year with Photo Calendars. Add photos, events, holidays, whatever. ___ http://www.striplin.net For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/ For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED] To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://striplin.net/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_striplin.net
Re: [MBZ] Nice SDL in OKLA
Amen, Luther. Makes one wish to live in some very desolate spot (as long as you can afford to live there), like Wyoming, New Mexico, or Alaska! Werner WB2BRB ex KL7HKB - Original Message - From: "Luther Gulseth" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: "Mercedes Discussion List" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Sent: Thursday, January 12, 2006 7:52 PM Subject: Re: [MBZ] Nice SDL in OKLA I will never live in a city limit or covenant limit. Ham radio and cars DO NOT get along with EITHER! On Thu, 12 Jan 2006 18:14:43 -0600, Kaleb C. Striplin <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote: exactly. OK don cursed me. I just got a letter today from the planning commission saying they have been notified of my residence running a Mercedes Automibile Auction (whatever the hell that means). And that it -- Luther KB5QHU Alma, Ark '83 300SD (happily running WVO/diesel mix) '82 300CD (Slate grey, black MBTex, WVO/D mix) '82 300D '90 300E (both parts or can run??)
Re: [MBZ] Power Steering pump failure.
Mitch - correct! I was only referring to PS pumps and systems, not the hydraulic leveling system, although I would suspect that Mobil1 ATF might work in that, too. But I don't have any of those problem children, so have no valid comment on that. Werner - Original Message - From: "Mitch Haley" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: "Mercedes Discussion List" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Sent: Thursday, January 12, 2006 9:44 PM Subject: Re: [MBZ] Power Steering pump failure. Werner Fehlauer wrote: Constantine - I'll take the bait and argue your supposition that there is some kind of "magic" engineering in Mercedes-Benz PS pumps that require special "snake oil". My '90 D has now gone for over 130,000 miles on ATF Your 300d probably doesn't have the special Vickers twin pump, which is both a power steering pump and a hydraulic pump for the self leveling suspension on the 1987 300td with OM603. I'm not sure why they did it that way, I've seen 190ds with SLS, and they all had the normal cam-driven pump on the cylinder head (OM601 and 602)
Re: [MBZ] OTfonts and characters
So where is the character for the Euro currency?? Werner - Original Message - From: "Tim C" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: "'Mercedes Discussion List'" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Sent: Friday, January 13, 2006 2:49 PM Subject: Re: [MBZ] OTfonts and characters You should just be able to go Start->Run-> type "charmap" -> OK and it should find it (XP at least). T
Re: [MBZ] Water Leak in trunk of W-126 Longbody and seat Question.
Angelo - 126's are known to develop rear window seal leaks, and the leak will collect water in the 'well' as you describe. You can check for that (when it melts) by feeling around in between the metal cross trunk structure, under the rear window and ahead of the trunk opening. Yes, there is a big air vent on the side of the trunk "well" on each side, as well as a rubber drain plug in the bottom. But water would only come in that way when driving, while a rear window leak will show up when parked. Werner - Original Message - From: "ANGELO GIAIMO" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Sent: Monday, January 16, 2006 9:40 AM Subject: [MBZ] Water Leak in trunk of W-126 Longbody and seat Question. What would cause water (turned to ice by the following AM here) accumulate in the driver's side of the trunkthe depressed area right behind the wheel well? It's been dry since being re-painted this fall, but not really driven in the rain. Saturday night, I went thru some thunderous downpours and bad crosswinds, and Sunday AM, ICE The seal on the trunklid was replaced but I would have thaught if that was leaking, I'd see more evidence. I know there's a vent down there somewhere, but are they troublesome? Today it's 4 degrees, and it's still frozen sold ;-(, but when it thaws out, where do I start looking? And another question...the panel on the back of the passinger's seat has fallen off. No clue has to how it happened. Do they just snap back on, or are there some screws and/or clips that keep them in place. Angelo Giaimo/Fishkill/IBM @ IBMUS Internet: [EMAIL PROTECTED] (845)894-4296 (tie 533); fax: 892-6235 (tie 532); 2070 Rt. 52; Hopewell Junction, N.Y. 12533 ___ http://www.striplin.net For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/ For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED] To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://striplin.net/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_striplin.net
Re: [MBZ] OT:email hosting
Check out eDataRack.com - I know of several people who have them as their domain host. Werner - Original Message - From: "Luther Gulseth" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: "Mercedes Discussion List" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Sent: Friday, January 20, 2006 9:06 AM Subject: Re: [MBZ] OT:email hosting no, that's not an option. Do not have a dedicated ISP at home. - Original Message From: LT Don <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: Mercedes Discussion List <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Sent: Thursday, January 19, 2006 7:52:28 PM Subject: Re: [MBZ] OT:email hosting Yea ... Apache running on Linux maybe? It is a no-brainer (as demonstrated by my putting up pages). On 1/19/06, Luther Gulseth <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote: I'm open to suggestions for an email hosting website. I need 5-15 individual email accounts and don't have to have more than 100MB inbox size. I would like web and pop access. Most other features are just added bonuses. We use mostly Linux at home, so virus problems are slim to nil. I already have the domain registered. Do any of you have some suggestions? I have looked at these so far: http://www.everyone.net/personal-email-addresses.html http://www.entergroup.com/family/overview.fegml http://hostmysite.com/hosting/linux/ Anyone have experience/suggestions for other sites to look at? TIA all, Luther
Re: [MBZ] Keyless
Jim - I see where you have added keyless entry to a couple of '86 M-Bs. Is it feasible to add that feature to my '83SD? Even if it isn't a good idea, how about modifying the existing system so that all locks can operate from any of the 3 key locations: trunk, left door, and right door? Right now, it only locks/unlocks all openings from the left door. I would be interested in your mods - TIA Werner '83SD 210k miles '90D 220k miles - Original Message - From: "Jim Cathey" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: "Mercedes Discussion List" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Sent: Friday, January 20, 2006 11:12 AM Subject: Re: [MBZ] Keyless Basically, my 83' 300D has a broken piece in the drivers door so I can't use the key from outside to lock or unlock. HOWEVER... I have found that I Probably not too hard to fix, especially if the key turns in the lock but nothing happens. Recommended, even if you do add keyless entry. While you're inside the door is the perfect time to fix the problem. have an electric solenoid that operates the lock... So, if only I had some remote I would have keyless entry. It would need to be a momentary switch though as there's no built-in shutoff. And it would need to be able to reverse the leads so that I could use it for both lock and unlock... All remote keyless entry systems will do just what you want. I have toyed with the idea of putting it into our 123's (and my wife's old 107), but have never yet done so. I _have_ added it to two of our '86 drivers, tapping into the electric pump. I have two U-Pull door lock motors waiting for me to play with, and three extra keyless entry systems. (And two more earmarked for our other two '86 cars.) -- Jim ___ http://www.striplin.net For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/ For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED] To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://striplin.net/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_striplin.net
Re: [MBZ] Keyless
Thanks, Jim - I can see where fooling with the passenger door could be a pain. I'll put first priority on the trunk lock mod and keyless remote, and leave the passenger door for when I'm really bored! Werner - Original Message - From: "Jim Cathey" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: "Mercedes Discussion List" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Sent: Friday, January 20, 2006 12:22 PM Subject: Re: [MBZ] Keyless Jim - I see where you have added keyless entry to a couple of '86 M-Bs. Is it feasible to add that feature to my '83SD? Even if it isn't a good idea, It should work just fine, modulo the 3-wire versus 5-wire pump differences I noted in my write-up. (http://cathey.dogear.com/SDLkeyless.html) Be the first to prove it! how about modifying the existing system so that all locks can operate from any of the 3 key locations: trunk, left door, and right door? Right now, it only locks/unlocks all openings from the left door. Not easy at all, but I suppose you could do it. The change-over (in '86) was semi-extensive. A different pump, and wires to all three locks. Also includes two additional key switches and wiring for the factory alarm system, which probably doesn't interest you. Assuming you have the different pump and its mating connectors, the trunk would probably be easy to retrofit, the new actuator and wiring thereto of the passenger door would be the worst part. -- Jim
Re: [MBZ] MBCA Route 66
Gary - the full route 66 trip starts on September 17 in Chicago, and ends in Santa Monica pier and on to the MBUSA Classic Center in Irvine on the 30th. Then there is StarFest06 in Las Vegas from 1-5 October. A Startrip is being organized to follow US Route 6 to Chicago from Montvale, NJ, 13-16 September. These are all part of the MBCA 50th anniversary special events. Also, Northern New Jersey is planning a special add-on at June Jamboree in Montvale as part of these special events. All club members are invited to participate in some or all of them. See www.mbca.org for details... Werner - Original Message - From: "Gary Hurst" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: "Mercedes Discussion List" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Sent: Friday, January 20, 2006 1:08 PM Subject: Re: [MBZ] MBCA Route 66 when is it? i'll go do it, if you know what you are doing. (i don't) On 1/19/06, Howard Fulford <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote: Anyone need a navigator for the MBCA Route 66 drive ? Howard Fulford Bath England 190E '89, 137658 miles ___ http://www.striplin.net For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/ For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED] To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://striplin.net/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_striplin.net ___ http://www.striplin.net For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/ For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED] To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://striplin.net/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_striplin.net
Re: [MBZ] MBCA Route 66
Looks about the way we saw it going out in late December, 04. There are many miles of almost nothing - hard to believe that it was a major route to CA not that many years ago, before I-40! (of course, there are many miles of I-40 that don't have too much going on, if you're driving it in late December, either!) Werner - Original Message - From: "Gary Hurst" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: "Mercedes Discussion List" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Sent: Friday, January 20, 2006 2:06 PM Subject: Re: [MBZ] MBCA Route 66 here is a picture of 66 from out the window of my 6.3 http://hursty.buymbparts.com/63/21.jpg On 1/20/06, Werner Fehlauer <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote: Gary - the full route 66 trip starts on September 17 in Chicago, and ends in Santa Monica pier and on to the MBUSA Classic Center in Irvine on the 30th. Then there is StarFest06 in Las Vegas from 1-5 October. A Startrip is being organized to follow US Route 6 to Chicago from Montvale, NJ, 13-16 September. These are all part of the MBCA 50th anniversary special events. Also, Northern New Jersey is planning a special add-on at June Jamboree in Montvale as part of these special events. All club members are invited to participate in some or all of them. See www.mbca.org for details... Werner - Original Message - From: "Gary Hurst" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: "Mercedes Discussion List" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Sent: Friday, January 20, 2006 1:08 PM Subject: Re: [MBZ] MBCA Route 66 > when is it? i'll go do it, if you know what you are doing. (i don't) > > On 1/19/06, Howard Fulford <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote: >> >> Anyone need a navigator for the MBCA Route 66 drive ? >> >> >> Howard Fulford >> Bath >> England >> >> 190E '89, 137658 miles >> >> ___ >> http://www.striplin.net >> For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/ >> For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED] >> >> To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: >> http://striplin.net/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_striplin.net >> > ___ > http://www.striplin.net > For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/ > For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED] > > To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: > http://striplin.net/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_striplin.net ___ http://www.striplin.net For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/ For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED] To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://striplin.net/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_striplin.net ___ http://www.striplin.net For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/ For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED] To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://striplin.net/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_striplin.net
Re: [MBZ] Got Tumbler but no Key
The South Jersey Section had a tech event last year, to tour the new MBUSA Master Regional Parts Distribution Center in Robbinsville, NJ. This is intended to be the entry and distribution point for all M-B parts in North America, and operates as a secure foreign trade zone. It also replaces the Baltimore facility. Fully automated, and neat as a pin! They receive and ship by big containers though the Bayonne port, FedEx air, and US trucking lines. AFAIK, there weren't any Chrysler parts there, with the exception of SLK parts used in both lines, etc. Werner - Original Message - From: "Tom Hargrave" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: "Mercedes Discussion List" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Sent: Saturday, January 21, 2006 1:31 PM Subject: Re: [MBZ] Got Tumbler but no Key Yep, they centralized all of the parts warehouses when they merged Chrysler parts warehouses with Mercedes parts warehouses. An interesting piece of trivia - my Wife works at the Milwaukee depot, one of three super warehouses run by Diamler-Chrysler. And generally speaking, Mercedes parts cost less than Chrysler parts at the wholesale level. Thanks, Tom Hargrave 256-656-1924 www.kegkits.com -Original Message- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Behalf Of Mitch Haley Sent: Saturday, January 21, 2006 6:09 AM To: Mercedes Discussion List Subject: Re: [MBZ] Got Tumbler but no Key Marshall Booth wrote: Every tumbler I've ever ordered (at least 3 of them - maybe 4) came with a key - ordering one without the key was NOT an option (I've tried). Were any ordered before they centralized the process? (they changed the location where the work was done sometime last year, didn't they?) ___ http://www.striplin.net For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/ For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED] To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://striplin.net/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_striplin.net ___ http://www.striplin.net For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/ For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED] To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://striplin.net/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_striplin.net
Re: [MBZ] MBCA Route 66
Tom and anyone interested in the route 6/66 trips - Yes, the anticipation is that there will be many members who will only drive short segments, or even just attend local section dinners or lunches en route. Not that many will have the time and opportunity to make the whole trip, and Starfest06! Werner - Original Message - From: "tom savage" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: "Mercedes Discussion List" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Sent: Saturday, January 21, 2006 10:54 AM Subject: Re: [MBZ] MBCA Route 66 James Zavesky wrote: The dates are for the Historic Route 66 Tour from Chicago, IL to Santa Monica, CA. is September 16 - 30, 2006. Full details can be found at the link below: http://www.mbca.org/pages/Route66/Route_66_2006.htm Hmm. I live about a mile from Route 66. Wonder if I can participate for just the Springfield, IL - St Louis leg, which would make a good birthday activity. Wonder also if they're traveling the entire route; parading unarmed through East St Louis in Mercedes is just not a wise idea. Sounds like a great trip, but alas I am poor and have a job. Tom
Re: [MBZ] PPI Request
hi Chuck - are they making 16V Diesels now?? Werner - Original Message - From: "Chuck Landenberger" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: "Mercedes Discussion List" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Sent: Monday, January 23, 2006 2:42 PM Subject: [MBZ] PPI Request Hi all, Anyone available in the Louisville KY/New Albany IN to do a PPI on a 16 Valve??? Call me on 480/710-0898 or 623/748-1472 TIA, Chuck Phoenix, AZ
Re: [MBZ] a couple of questions - headlights, oil pressure
Tim - the oil pressure gauge should read 0 before you start the engine. When it starts, the pressure will go right up to full scale (3 bar, or about 45psi) when cold, and when the engine is at operating temperature, will drop down to between 1.5 to 2 bar at idle (for a good condition engine). M-B spec for bottom end rebuild is around 0.7bar at hot idle, as I recall. As for headlights, "halogen" normally refers to the gas around the filament in the bulb. If its a "sealed beam", then the bulb is not separately replaceable from the whole headlamp in my definition. Werner - Original Message - From: "Tim C" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: "'Mercedes Discussion List'" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Sent: Tuesday, January 24, 2006 12:04 AM Subject: [MBZ] a couple of questions - headlights, oil pressure Hello folks - a) Thanks to those who offered advice on headlight adjustments - much better now though I did discover the left light is messed up somewhere at the lower edge - can't tell if broken or just disconnected or what...will look at when light out again, or at minimum just figure out something to jam in there to hold light in correct position for now b) My headlights are the stock (non-Euro refit) lights. Yet, they say "sealed beam" AND "halogen" on them - stamped in the lens glass. I thought the two were mutually exclusive. Can anyone clarify what's going on there? c) I just realized that the oil pressure gauge goes to top when key turned on, and stays that way through startup, driving. Should I expect it ever to drop, or do these tend to just run at full pressure - i.e, is this normal, or an indication of a failure mode on the gauge? Apologies if this is explained in the owner's manual Thanks, Tim C. 83 300SD ___ http://www.striplin.net For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/ For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED] To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://striplin.net/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_striplin.net
Re: [MBZ] Starting in second
Yes, but the '90 124 2.5 Diesel starts in 2nd, unless you "floor" it. Werner - Original Message - From: "Desert Rat" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: "Mercedes Discussion List" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Sent: Tuesday, January 24, 2006 12:26 PM Subject: Re: [MBZ] Starting in second US model diesels start in first, gas models start out in 2nd. Only exception is my 85 380SL. All of the many gas W126 models I have owned start out in 2nd and the W126 diesels started out in 1st. For further clarification, check your specific owners manual. On 1/24/06, John Berryman <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote: On Tuesday, January 24, 2006, at 10:26 AM, Donald Snook wrote: >> From what I understand, the gasser 126's start in 2nd gear and this is > why they are little slow off the line. I don't believe this to be the case for that particular model. > A few questions? Why did > Mercedes do this? To keep wheels for spinning on slippery surfaces and for fuel economy. > If it starts in 2nd then does it ever go into 1st? Yes, when you mash the throttle it will drop down. > Is there a way to change this? Is there a reason not too? Yours should start in 1st gear. This feature was used in 240Ds and some 201 190Ds, 124s and probably some other models that I'm not aware of. I have a Euro 124 owners manual that describes this in depth. Johnny B. I Mac Therefore I am ___ http://www.striplin.net For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/ For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED] To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://striplin.net/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_striplin.net -- John Freer Palm Springs, CA 1992 500 SEL 140K "Stardust" 1985 380SL 145K "Blue Belle" ___ http://www.striplin.net For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/ For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED] To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://striplin.net/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_striplin.net
Re: [MBZ] 240D RIP
Mathieu - First, glad to hear that the driver came through OK. But the damage really doesn't look that hard to repair, assuming the door frames aren't distorted. By missing the bumper, the energy was absorbed by the fender sheet metal, from what I can see - which would mean that the frame and bumper supports are still pretty much in alignment. What I see from the pictures is a left rear fender, trunklid, and under the trunk sheetmetal. I acquired an '83SD with similar damage, and a very good body shop made it look like new for under 2.5K! With the insurance payout, you could end up with a very nice car - one that you know, have invested in, and probably better than what you can find on the market. Werner - Original Message - From: "Mathieu J. Cama" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: "Mercedes Discussion List" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Sent: Tuesday, January 24, 2006 1:26 PM Subject: Re: [MBZ] 240D RIP Pictures of the car are at: http://oldworldauto.com/240RIP/240D_RIP.htm Body shop estimates $5400 in damages. OUCH! ___ http://www.striplin.net For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/ For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED] To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://striplin.net/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_striplin.net
Re: [MBZ] Starting in second
We've had this 1990 W124 2.5 Diesel since new, and it has always started in 2nd when not running "red light drags". And the literature we got with the car said that is the way it was supposed to operate - and 220k miles later, it still runs the same! Werner - Original Message - From: "Dave M." <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Cc: "Joe Knight" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Sent: Tuesday, January 24, 2006 2:18 PM Subject: Re: [MBZ] Starting in second Different years & models have the 2nd gear start. My 1986 and 1990 300E's both started in second gear, and I believe all years did. My 1987 300D starts in first gear, and I would have SWORN that all 124 diesels started in first. Kaleb? Don? Sunil? What's the deal? The E420 and E500 both start in second, although this can be rectified with electronic wizardry (I have the BergWerks 1st gear start kit in my car), or with a RENNtech valve body (at over 4x the cost). Not many gas 124's started in first, if any... I forget if/when MB finally got away from this annoying practice. -dm -- Date: Tue, 24 Jan 2006 10:40:34 -0800 From: Desert Rat <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: Re: [MBZ] Starting in second OK, but the question specific was to a US model W126 gas model. I know nuttin' about W124's or Euro anything! On 1/24/06, Werner Fehlauer <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote: > Yes, but the '90 124 2.5 Diesel starts in 2nd, unless you "floor" it. > Werner ___ http://www.striplin.net For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/ For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED] To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://striplin.net/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_striplin.net
Re: [MBZ] Starting in second
Well, Marshall, I think my '90 Diesel W124 is working correctly. It was a zone car and completely checked out before being titled as new when we bought it at HBL. Norbert was one of the "checkers". Since HBL changed hands, the folks at ASC have treated us better, and their best people have worked on this car, too. So I'll enjoy the easy starts, better economy, very little creep while stopped, and the really great "kick" when I push the pedal down about 3/4 on a start! I will keep checking on this, however - and if it turns out the car is not working correctly, I'll post an apology. Werner - Original Message - From: "Marshall Booth" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: "Mercedes Discussion List" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Sent: Tuesday, January 24, 2006 3:52 PM Subject: Re: [MBZ] Starting in second Werner Fehlauer wrote: Yes, but the '90 124 2.5 Diesel starts in 2nd, unless you "floor" it. Werner When properly adjusted, most turbo diesels SHOULD sit in second and drop into 1st as soon as you push on the accelerator (unless you are pointed down hill and BARELY touch the pedal). A few sit in first AND start in first. If your's doesn't then it need adjustment. The attachment outlines the idle and starting gear for most Mercedes transmissions from "Automatic Transmission Maintenance & Diagnosis (thru 1989)" published by Mercedes 1989. Marshall -- Marshall Booth (who doesn't respond to unsigned questions) "der Dieseling Doktor" [EMAIL PROTECTED] '87 300TD 182Kmi, '84 190D 2.2 229Kmi, '85 190D 2.0 161Kmi, '87 190D 2.5 turbo 237kmi
[MBZ] 16V Princess
Chuck - how about a name like "Brünhilde" to go along with "panzerwagen"? Kind of keeps the cars related in the family, so to speak! Werner - Original Message - From: "Chuck Landenberger" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: "Mercedes Discussion List" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Sent: Thursday, January 26, 2006 7:39 PM Subject: Re: [MBZ] Preventive Maintenance On Jan 26, 2006, at 4:40 PM, Dave M. wrote: After that, get some new muffler bearings and convert to synthetic headlight fluid, and you're all set! Hey Dave. You have them in stock??? I'll need some next week.. Take care and going to get the 16V "Princess" tomorrow... Bye for now.. Chuck
Re: [MBZ] 16V Princess
OK, Chuck - just thought you might want to think of a bit more Germanic name. Got to keep the image up! Good luck on your trip. Assuming the 16V lives up to expectations, you will have to decide which one to use on the route66 run - or maybe both? Werner - Original Message - From: "Chuck Landenberger" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: "Mercedes Discussion List" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Sent: Thursday, January 26, 2006 9:25 PM Subject: Re: [MBZ] 16V Princess Werner, You have a point, but "Panzerwagen" was basically a description because "she" has truly been "bulletproof"!! I recently threw out a new name for the 300SD of "Queen Mother" and the 16V was "the pretender to the throne" since I don't know her and then "Princess" that implies some hierarchy within this "family".. I'll tell all how much of a "Princess" the 16V is after the drive back from Louisville to Phoenix... I'll be going from Louisville (where Cheap Charley has allowed me the use of a sleeping bag for Friday night) to Memphis on Saturday to visit w/Mike McGrory, thence to Dallas on Sunday and head west on I-30/I-20/I-10 to Phoenix.. All keep fingers crossed, please. And thanks./... Cell phone and Laptop (a Mac iBook) to keep in touch with this wonderful world... Take care, Chuck On Jan 26, 2006, at 7:14 PM, Werner Fehlauer wrote: Chuck - how about a name like "Brünhilde" to go along with "panzerwagen"? Kind of keeps the cars related in the family, so to speak! Werner
Re: [MBZ] 16V Princess
Chuck - Yes, the coordinating of the 50th events is a tough nut to crack. And figuring out how to control and pre-pay the costs isn't an easy task, for sure. We hope to do the thing coast to coast AND Starfest, and then a leisurely drive back East. The cars certainly are up to it, as we did it last winter in the 124. Thinking of doing it in the 126 this time - will 'cost' about 2 mpg more, but more room and comfort. But it will take a lot of time - probably at least 5 weeks, maybe more when all is said and done. Not too practical if you're not retired! Expect to see you somewhere enroute and in Vegas! Werner - Original Message - From: "Chuck Landenberger" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: "Mercedes Discussion List" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Sent: Thursday, January 26, 2006 9:58 PM Subject: Re: [MBZ] 16V Princess Werner, I did entertain a "midnight excursion of thought" that had to do w/ putting a hitch on the 300SD and hooking a 2 wheel dolly for the 16V to take both to StarFest in Las Vegas.. But the morning light doused that idea I'm involved w/trying to coordinate a StarTrip from the four corners of the US... Seems like too many eggs got into the nest at one time and some just won't hatch... At this time, the Route 66 run just does not seem to fit in w/my plans to attend StarFest in Vegas .. Hope to see you somewhere along the line and hope all is going well healthwise... Take care, Chuck On Jan 26, 2006, at 7:32 PM, Werner Fehlauer wrote: OK, Chuck - just thought you might want to think of a bit more Germanic name. Got to keep the image up! Good luck on your trip. Assuming the 16V lives up to expectations, you will have to decide which one to use on the route66 run - or maybe both? Werner
Re: [MBZ] More cool specials
Folks, looking at oil analysis is akin to the old barn door/stolen horse theory. What matters in a filter is the size and capacity of what is "taken" out of the oil. Usually, there is a micron spec, plus other characteristics. Looking at the oil is a bit late! I've had name brand (Fram) air filter many years ago that were advertised to fit a certain application, but turned out that they did not filter out dust and dirt like the OE brand. In this case, if Rusty has the confidence that these el cheapo copies will function just as well as OE filters, then they are probably OK. That said, personally I think I'll keep using the OE filters until we get more experience with brand "x". As we've heard many times, oil (and filters) are much less expensive than metal (engines). Werner '83SD 210k '90D 221k - Original Message - From: "R A Bennell" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: "Mercedes Discussion List" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Sent: Tuesday, January 31, 2006 8:11 PM Subject: Re: [MBZ] More cool specials I also do not know how he could "guarantee" these filters. What exactly would that mean? For example, if you run into problems with your old motor with 300K plus miles on it, how are you going to prove it was the fault of the filter? You can talk oil analysis all you want but I would not think it fair to pursue the vendor of the oil filter that you chose and installed. If you don't like the idea, then do not use the "new" filter. However, we are seeing more and more things come out of the far east that are a good or better than many of the products that we used to produce in the west. It was not always like that but it is becoming more so on a daily basis. Any engineers on here with the facilities to do some testing? It would be interesting to know if there is any difference in the oil based upon the brand of filter being used. I have not been around here long enough to know if y'all have been through this in depth but I know there has been considerable discussion and some reasonable data on other forums relating to various oil filter manufacturors. I am sort of a believer that if I change the oil often enough, it likely is not going to be a huge issue what brand of filter I use. I ran a 77 Ford and then an 86 Ford over a hundred thousand with minimal wear using basic house brand filters and oil. I changed both at 3000 mile intervals and never had any issues (apart from headgaskets which is how I ended up having a look at the cylinders etc.). If you plan to run expensive synthetic lubricants and want to extend your change interval then you should either pay for a premium filter (and hope you get what you pay for) or possibly, change the filter mid cycle. My 2 cents. Your mileage may vary etc. Randy B
