[RBW] Gearing up for Winter

['Tim' via RBW Owners Bunch]

I had no idea you had a blog! Is that where you snuck off too during your 
hiatus? Great photos. I've seen your Hunq many times but don't think I've seen 
the Quickbeam. Nice! Original paint or repaint? Thanks for posting.

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[RBW] Looking to Sell My 59cm Clementine in Black

[kenneth shevlin]

I have a 59cm Clementine in Black that I need to sell to help with car 
repairs. It's got less than 100 miles on it and I have upgraded the front 
wheel to a Dyno-hub (Rivendell build) and LUMOTEC IQ light . . . a Brooks 
sprung saddle. . . I have also added SKS/ESGE Commuter II Silver Fenders, a 
Pletscher Clem back rack and touring center stand. With the cost of the 
bike and upgrades I am into the bike for $2000.  Looking to get $1600 for 
it.

So if you are looking for the ultimate step through Dutch style bike that 
can handle the road as well as the off road. . . this is your bike. And 
what's great about it as opposed to a Dutch bike is it's light! 

And as a man I prefer the step through for ease of mounting and 
dismounting. Also if you've got a kid or a bunch of groceries on the back 
you don't have to dump either on the ground while climbing aboard!

Let me know if you have any questions.


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Re: [RBW] WTB Large Sackville Saddlesack

[Captain Conway Bennett]

What's yer PayPal?

Fair winds,

Captain Conway Bennett

> On Nov 30, 2016, at 6:19 AM, Pondero  wrote:
> 
> PM sent.
> 
> Chris Johnson
> Sanger, Texas
> 
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[RBW] FS: Parts galore- Nitto, Suntour, MKS, Schwalbe, Tektro, Mafac and more

[ant ritchey]

Howdy folks.  Trying to clear out a bit of space and raise some funds for 
the holidays, other projects, etc.

Shimano bar end shifter set, Dura Ace w/ pods, 9 speed, some scuffs, but 
otherwise good condition $55
Shimano bar ends, same as above except the indexing mechanism is wonky, 
FRICTION ONLY  $40
Suntour "Mighty Shifter" thumb shifter (from an '83 Trek), friction only w/ 
that silky smooth ratcheting, chunky and silver w/ black covers on the 
shifter  $25
Shimano vintage Deore XT thumb shifters, indexed to 6 speed, very good 
condition  $35
Velo Orange thumbie mounts, silver, no shims (I used cloth tape instead & 
never cared to contact VO to see if I could purchase shims only) $40
Nitto R-14, back rack/saddle bag support, "tombstone" model, all necessary 
hardware included (will measure struts upon request), excellent conditon  
$95
Mafac Racer set, no pads, one Mafac-branded straddle hanger, clean and in 
good condition $35
Tektro Interruptors RL-720 black bracket/silver lever, excellent  $20
Schwalbe Big Apples 700x50, pair, <100 miles, non-folding, very good 
condition,  $40/pair
Kenda Small Block Eight 29 x 2.1, folding, some wear on one tire, folding, 
good condition,  $20/pair
Ortlieb backpack, messenger "classic", black, good condition,  $70
Sugino XD2 triple, 175mm, 46-36-24, the one from Riv, less than 500 miles, 
excellent condition  $100
UNO post, 6061 brushed, never installed, 27.0 x 300mm  $10
Shimano Tiagra rear derailleur, RD-4500, long cage, 9spd, some scratches  
$20
Shimano Exage Sport BR-A450caliper brakes w/ pads, bolt-on style, front & 
rear, very good condition $15
Sakae CR triple crank, 170mm, 53-46-28, plenty of life left on rings  $40
MKS pedals, "quill" style, AR-8, spin smooth, very good condition  $10
dirt drop stem of unknown make, anodized, from an '87 Stumpjumper  $10
Delta stem riser, black, 1" $8
Ritchey Force riser stem, black, 1" quill  $10
Nitto Mustache, heat treated aluminum, for 25.4 clamp  $25
Sugino chainring 32t, 74 BCD, new in packaging  $12

Prices don't include shipping.  Definitely open to reasonable offers if 
you're buying multiple things.

Stuff I'm interested in trading for:
Paul moon units, Paul rack adapter bolt , Schmidt edelux II, Son hub, Pass 
& Stow, Nitto Albatross aluminum, Sackville medium saddlebag tan, Sackville 
shopsack tan (either size), Nitto m12 or similar, Carradice nelson longflap 
or similar, Resist Nomad 26x2.25 gumwall, Sackville Backabike panniers tan, 
King Iris cages...

Happy to answer any and all questions!

Ant Ritchey / PDX OR

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[RBW] FS: Suntour XC 9000 brake lever/shifter, derailleur set

[ant ritchey]

Another iBob/RBW cross post-

The CL posting tells the tale

http://portland.craigslist.org/mlt/bop/5901402509.html

$100 shipped CONUS

Holler w/ questions or if ya need more pics

Best,
Ant Ritchey in PDX OR

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[RBW] Re: moustache or Albastache bars on a Legolas?

['Eamon Nordquist' via RBW Owners Bunch]

I've thought about doing that and using reverse mount levers in the bar 
ends, along with down tube shifters.  It seems like it would be similar to 
a shorter reach albatross bar, but with slightly less rise.  That said, you 
could always use Choco Moose bars and cut some of the length off of them, 
so that it wouldn't be quite as upright.

Eamon

On Thursday, December 1, 2016 at 2:27:01 PM UTC-8, BSWP wrote:

>
> For all running and liking Albastaches, have any tried them upside-down? 
> That is, with "rise" instead of drop? I tried that with older M'bars, and 
> didn't like the brake lever options. But maybe the new bars are more 
> amenable?
>
> - Andrew, Berkeley
>

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[RBW] FS: 1984 TREK 620 56cm

[ant ritchey]

Cross-posted to iBob...

Helping my very good pal find his too-small-for-him Trek a new home...

Link to the CL post-

http://portland.craigslist.org/mlt/bik/5901324702.html

Let me know if you have any questions about the f/f/hs

Asking $350 + shipping

-ant ritchey / PDX OR

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[RBW] FS: Orange 64cm Rivendell Quickbeam

[ant ritchey]

Cross posted to the iBob:

Selling my beautiful orange beam.  Sufficient story and details in my 
PDX-local CL posting:

http://portland.craigslist.org/mlt/bik/5901282832.html

Contact me with any questions.  Asking $700 + approx $60 for shipping CONUS 
via bikeflights

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[RBW] Gearing up for Winter

[Deacon Patrick]

I can’t remember if I’ve posted my bike blog, so apologies if I’m repeating 
myself. The website is here: http://thegrid.ai/withabandon/ 


Here is a direct link to the latest post, "Gearing up for Winter.” Nothing 
spectacularly impressive, but a wonderful ride after about a month of barely 
riding and two weeks building back up to longer(ish) rides and wondering if the 
snow would allow them. Grin. 
http://thegrid.ai/withabandon/gearing-up-for-winter/ 


Items of note: moleskine breeches are amazing in winter! As is coffee in a 
brisk breeze! Wow.

With abandon,
Patrick

www.OurHolyConception.org
www.MindYourHeadCoop.org


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[RBW] Re: Help me build my 55 Cheviot

[RichS]

Ed, for what it's worth my Sam has a CX-70, 8 speed chain and XD-2 crank 
with 43/34 rings. I can ride the top 4 rear cogs in the 43 without any 
chain rub but it can require a slight bit of trimming from time to time. 
The 34 ring runs quietly through all 8 cogs. No doubt the Claris will work 
fine for you. 
Full disclosure: I have a new Claris as a spare.

Regards,
Richard   

On Wednesday, November 30, 2016 at 7:27:26 PM UTC-5, ed wrote:
>
> I would like to seek your advise to help me build my 55 Cheviot.
> Bought it from Rivendell when I visited them last September 16, 2016.
> The headset, fork, and bottom bracket were pre-installed by Riv.
>
> This is my first full bike build so pardon my ignorance if I have chosen 
> the wrong set of components to make this work.
> Currently I am having trouble getting my front derailleur to work quietly. 
> The chain keeps rubbing the side of the derailleur (CX70) even after 
> making adjustment to the limit screws.
>
> These are the gear components installed:
>
> Shifters - IRD Silver SOS power ratchet Thumb shifters
> Front derailleur - Shimano CX70
> Crank - Sugino XD2 wide/double crank 40t x 26t
> Cassette - SRAM 8 speed 11-32
> Rear derailleur - Shimano Altus (RD-M310)
> Chain - Shimano 8 speed chain IG-51 (116 links then added 2 more links 
> because of the longer chain stay)
>
> Anyone care to comment/suggest on what I could have done wrong before I 
> give up and just bring my bike to our LBS.
>
> Ed Fausto
>
>

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Re: [RBW] Re: 1985 trek 870 rivified and rebuilt

[Hugh Smitham]

Ah ha. Thanks Chris.

On Dec 1, 2016 2:52 PM, "'Chris Lampe 2' via RBW Owners Bunch" <
rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com> wrote:

> The black portion is a regular straight 1" quill stem and the top of it is
> sized to fit a modern 1 1/8" threadless stem, which is what the silver
> portion is.   Dimension makes this one.
>
>
>
>> 
>>
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Re: [RBW] Re: Help me build my 55 Cheviot

[Bill Lindsay]

I didn't gather that annoyance at trimming was the problem statement.  What 
I read was that the OP cannot stop the chain from rubbing the front 
derailer.  If the problem statement is "I'm annoyed that I have to trim the 
front derailer every 3 or 4 cogs" then yeah, he needs a wider cage front 
der.  

On Thursday, December 1, 2016 at 2:45:56 PM UTC-8, Joe Bernard wrote:
>
> While I agree that his combination can be made to work, in practice it's 
> pretty annoying if you use all the rear gears a lot and have to keep 
> trimming the front derailer. But then I have a rather low tolerance for 
> trimming a lot, some folks would be fine with it.

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[RBW] Re: 1985 trek 870 rivified and rebuilt

['Chris Lampe 2' via RBW Owners Bunch]

The black portion is a regular straight 1" quill stem and the top of it is 
sized to fit a modern 1 1/8" threadless stem, which is what the silver 
portion is.   Dimension makes this one.
 


>
>

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Re: [RBW] Re: Help me build my 55 Cheviot

[Joe Bernard]

While I agree that his combination can be made to work, in practice it's pretty 
annoying if you use all the rear gears a lot and have to keep trimming the 
front derailer. But then I have a rather low tolerance for trimming a lot, some 
folks would be fine with it.

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[RBW] Re: moustache or Albastache bars on a Legolas?

[BSWP]

For all running and liking Albastaches, have any tried them upside-down? 
That is, with "rise" instead of drop? I tried that with older M'bars, and 
didn't like the brake lever options. But maybe the new bars are more 
amenable?

- Andrew, Berkeley

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[RBW] Re: Clem Smith Jr with Alternate Handlebars? - Choco-moose

[Les Lammers]

On Tuesday, November 1, 2016 at 9:48:02 PM UTC-4, mike smith wrote:
>
> Has anyone changed handlebars on the CSJ?  I like the current bars but I'm 
> too upright? 59cm Frame.
>
> Flipped Albatross/North Road Bars  
https://www.google.com/search?q=flipped+albatross+bars=1920=1043=isch=u=univ=X=0ahUKEwjLnJ2ggtTQAhWDPiYKHbKiAssQsAQIGg#imgrc=omWCunQwYyQ2yM%3A

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[RBW] Re: Clem Smith Jr with Alternate Handlebars? - Choco-moose

[Les Lammers]

On Tuesday, November 1, 2016 at 9:48:02 PM UTC-4, mike smith wrote:
>
> Has anyone changed handlebars on the CSJ?  I like the current bars but I'm 
> too upright? 59cm Frame.
>


I'm building a 55cm Chevoit and tried the Choco norm bars. Did not like the 
hand position so I have some silver 52cm SOMA Sparrow bars coming. 2 inch 
rise and I'm going to try them flipped with Ergon grips. They also come in 
49 and 56 CM. 

Here is a link to a Bosco users take: 
http://simplecycle-marc.blogspot.com/2012/06/rivendells-bosco-bars.html I 
have a pair of the Dia Compe nubbies coming too..\ 

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Re: [RBW] Re: 25 years now

[Igor Belopolsky]

I don't mean to derail by the way, just giving interesting perspective from
across the Atlantic :)

On Thursday, December 1, 2016, Evan E.  wrote:

> Well said, Ted!
>
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[RBW] Re: For Sale: Roof Rack, Brooks Swift Saddle, XT Hub

[Justin Schoop]

My mistake, the hub is actually the M750 model, not the 770. Again, brand 
new, skewer included. 

On Thursday, December 1, 2016 at 1:39:35 PM UTC-5, Justin Schoop wrote:
>
> I have some items that I'd like to get rid of.
>
> Two Brand new Rocky Mounts Tierod rooftop bike racks, silver in color - 
> $200 for both $100 for single
> Black Brooks Swift Saddle, ridden for less than 20 miles - $80
> Brand new Shimano XT M770 read hub, 32h - $40
>
> Saddle and hub prices include shipping. Shipping for racks will be 
> calculated if/when sold. 
>
>

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[RBW] Re: 25 years now

[Evan E.]

Well said, Ted!

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[RBW] Re: Where are the Brompton Owners or A Case of the Novembers

[Chris Birkenmaier]

To address a few questions, I have a set of Ergon grips on the one bike.  
It had to be trimmed and I bought it used that way.  The grip feels nice.  
On the other I removed the original grips from the start and put on Oury 
grips.  Like them too.  I replaced the saddles and put on Brooks B-17s.  As 
far as lights I have various rechargeable lights that I attach when 
needed.  I just move these lights among my other bikes and the Brompton is 
no different.  I bought a zippered cover bag (can be found on eBay) just 
for storage and when I put it in the car just to keep things neat and tidy.
\
I love my Bromptons and actually enjoy the ride.

On Thursday, December 1, 2016 at 10:14:41 AM UTC-5, stevew wrote:

> Hi all,
>
> A few thoughts on lights - We bought my wife's Brompton off Craigslist 
> with the Shimano dyno-hub/light setup.  It works great for her and does not 
> interfere with the fold.  I think dyno-hubs are a great way to go, and have 
> one on my Ram that I use for brevets, so I would recommend it for a 
> Brompton if you ride at night and are OK with the extra cost.
>
> However, we bought my Brompton new, but I didn't want to pay the 
> additional cost for the dyno-hub setup.  I use the bike for commuting and 
> getting around town, so battery lights are fine for that.  For the front 
> light I got a Busch and Muller IXON Core IQ2 
> .
>   
> It's a fantastic light that I mount to the handlebars.  It doesn't 
> interfere with the fold and comes off easily if I need to remove it for any 
> reason.  The taillight took a little trail and error, though.
>
> At first, I attached a Planet Bike Superflash 
> 
>  
> to the rear part of the rail on a Brooks saddle.  This worked OK, but due 
> to the narrow width of the rail I could never get the clamp to be tight 
> enough so that the light stay upright as I bounced along the road.  Next, I 
> bought a Busch and Muller DTopLight XS 
> 
>  
> that I mounted to the reflector mount that sits right above the rear 
> fender.  This is pretty much the same light (battery version) that is on my 
> wife's Brompton, and was mounted in the same place.  This was not a great 
> solution because on this light, the release to open it to replace the 
> batteries is located on the underside of the light, which is hard to access 
> due to it practically touching the fender.  Trying to open the light, I 
> ended up breaking the little tabs that hold the whole thing together, so 
> that it started coming apart as I again bounced along the road.
>
> Finally, I took the Cateye LD610 
> 
>  
> from my Ram and mounted it to the reflector mount using a CatEye Rear 
> Rack Bracket 
> .  
> This works perfectly.  
>
> One pretty big consideration when thinking about attaching a rear light to 
> the mount that sits above the fender is to make sure that it is not too 
> tall.  This is because when the bike is folded, the fender and light mount 
> are upside down, and are very close to the ground.  If the light is too 
> tall, the bike will then rest on the light, instead of the little wheel on 
> the rear fender, and the Eazy Wheels.  Does that make sense?
>
> Bromptons are great bikes.  Get one.  You need it.  You know you do.
>
> Steve
>

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[RBW] Re: 1985 trek 870 rivified and rebuilt

[drew]

nice find! and yes, what is going on with that stem?

while this thread has been revived, ill re-up my sale of a 1984 trek 890. 
bought this for my wife to pair with the 870 in the OP, but she didnt want 
a third bike... who knew.
its got a lot of cool features like a lowish bb and reynolds 501 tubing. 
clearances arent as extreme. maxes out at about 26x1.9.  47cm frame that 
someone should have and ride. it has new tires, bars, cables, housing, 
pedals, etc. paint is in pretty good shape too. 300$ + shipping.


 

 





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[RBW] Re: FS: Bicycle Quarterly back issues

[Joe Bunik]

howdy again,

Thank you to all those interested in the back catalog of BQ's I had
available. Many have sold but I have the following ten remaining -
BQ 29   Autumn 2009 v.8 no.1 (cover wrinkled)
BQ 33   Autumn 2010 v.9 no.1 ("almost good" - cover torn / tape 
mended)
BQ 35   Spring 2011 v.9 no.3
BQ 36   Summer 2011 v.9 no.4
BQ 37   Autumn 2011 v.10no.1
BQ 38   Winter 2011 v.10no.2
BQ 39   Spring 2012 v.10no.3
BQ 40   Summer 2012 v.10no.4
BQ 41   Autumn 2012 v.11no.1
BQ 42   Winter 2012 v.11no.2
... I can let these go at $6 / issue or $20 for 4-pack, + actual
shipping. Let me know, thanks!

=- Joe Bunik
Walnut Creek, CA

On 11/29/16, Joe Bunik  wrote:
> hi gang
>
> Trying to get things in order and have some BQ back catalog to move along
> to their next home. Most are in good+ condition although I did note one
> damaged issue below. I've included a link for each to the Compass site
> where they detail the TOC for the issue.
>
> How about $7 per issue, or $25 for a 4-pack? Plus shipping, via
> friend/no-fee paypal - postage is tbd for these and will be the actual USPS
> rate (I just learned media rate doesn't apply for magazines!).
>
> Also, I'm going to defer requests for single issues for 24 hours so that
> anyone looking to complete particular volumes/years gets a fair shot.
> Thanks! =- Joe (Walnut Creek, CA)
>
> And now, here's the round-up:
>
> BQ 13 - Autumn 2005 - vol.4 no.1 (
> https://www.compasscycle.com/shop/print/issues/bq-13)
>
> BQ 14 - Winter 2005 - vol.4 no.2 (
> https://www.compasscycle.com/shop/print/issues/bq-14)
>
> BQ 15 - Spring 2006 - vol.4 no.3 (
> https://www.compasscycle.com/shop/print/issues/bq-15)
>
> BQ 16 - Summer 2006 - vol.4 no.4 (
> https://www.compasscycle.com/shop/print/issues/bq-16)
>
> BQ 21 - Autumn 2007 - vol.6 no.1 (
> https://www.compasscycle.com/shop/print/issues/bq-21)
>
> BQ 22 - Winter 2007 - vol.6 no.2 (
> https://www.compasscycle.com/shop/print/issues/bq-22)
>
> BQ 23 - Spring 2008 - vol.6 no.3 (
> https://www.compasscycle.com/shop/print/issues/bq-23)
>
> BQ 24 - Summer 2008 - vol.6 no.4 (
> https://www.compasscycle.com/shop/print/issues/bq-24)
>
> BQ 25 - Autumn 2008 - vol.7 no.1 (
> https://www.compasscycle.com/shop/print/issues/bq-25)
>
> BQ 26 - Winter 2008 - vol.7 no.2 (
> https://www.compasscycle.com/shop/print/issues/bq-26)
>
> BQ 27 - Spring 2009 - vol.7 no.3 (
> https://www.compasscycle.com/shop/print/issues/bq-27)
>
> BQ 28 - Summer 2009 - vol.7 no.4 (
> https://www.compasscycle.com/shop/print/issues/bq-28)
>
> BQ 29 - Autumn 2009 - vol.8 no.1 (
> https://www.compasscycle.com/shop/print/issues/bq-29)
>
> BQ 30 - Winter 2009 - vol.8 no.2 (
> https://www.compasscycle.com/shop/print/issues/bq-30)
>
> BQ 31 - Spring 2010 - vol.8 no.3 (
> https://www.compasscycle.com/shop/print/issues/bq-31)
>
> BQ 32 - Summer 2010 - vol.8 no.4 (
> https://www.compasscycle.com/shop/print/issues/bq-32)
>
> BQ 33 - Autumn 2010 - vol.9 no.1 front cover wrinkled (
> https://www.compasscycle.com/shop/print/issues/bq-33)
>
> BQ 34 - Winter 2010 - vol.9 no.2 (
> https://www.compasscycle.com/shop/print/issues/bq-34)
>
> BQ 35 - Spring 2011 - vol.9 no.3 (
> https://www.compasscycle.com/shop/print/issues/bq-35)
>
> BQ 36 - Summer 2011 - vol.9 no.4 (
> https://www.compasscycle.com/shop/print/issues/bq-36)
>
> BQ 37 - Autumn 2011 - vol.10 no.1 (
> https://www.compasscycle.com/shop/print/issues/bq-37)
>
> BQ 38 - Winter 2011 - vol.10 no.2 (
> https://www.compasscycle.com/shop/print/issues/bq-38)
>
> BQ 39 - Spring 2012 - vol.10 no.3 (
> https://www.compasscycle.com/shop/print/issues/bq-39)
>
> BQ 40 - Summer 2012 - vol.10 no.4 (
> https://www.compasscycle.com/shop/print/issues/bq-40)
>
> BQ 41 - Autumn 2012 - vol.11 no.1 (
> https://www.compasscycle.com/shop/print/issues/bq-41)
>
> BQ 42 - Winter 2012 - vol.11 no.2 (
> https://www.compasscycle.com/shop/print/issues/bq-42)
>
> BQ 43 - Spring 2013 - vol.11 no.3 (
> https://www.compasscycle.com/shop/print/issues/bq-43)
>
> BQ 44 - Summer 2013 - vol.11 no.4 (
> https://www.compasscycle.com/shop/print/issues/bq-44)
>
> BQ 46 - Winter 2013 - vol.12 no.2 (
> https://www.compasscycle.com/shop/print/issues/bq-46)
>
> BQ 47 - Spring 2014 - vol.12 no.3 (
> https://www.compasscycle.com/shop/print/issues/bq-47)
>
> BQ 48 - Summer 2014 - vol.12 no.4 (
> https://www.compasscycle.com/shop/print/issues/bq-48)
>
> BQ 49 - Autumn 2014 - vol.13 no.1 (
> https://www.compasscycle.com/shop/print/issues/bq-49)
>
> BQ 52 - Summer 2015 - vol.13 no.4 (
> https://www.compasscycle.com/shop/print/issues/bq-52)
>
> BQ 53 - Autumn 2015 - vol.14 no.1 (
> https://www.compasscycle.com/shop/print/issues/bq-53-autumn-2015)
>
> BQ 54 - Winter 2015 - vol.14 no.2 (
> https://www.compasscycle.com/shop/print/issues/bq-54-winter-2015)
>
> BQ 55 - Spring 2016 - vol.14 no.3 (
> 

Re: [RBW] Thinking of a Riv

[Tim Butterfield]

> I think I will be way, way under MAF for quite a while yet.

And, this morning, all of that changed.  I was instructed to keep a more
elevated heart rate for sessions of at least 20 minutes in length and up to
30.  I'll need to work up to that.  The PT used the Karvonen formula and
calculated an average target HR of 124, just a beat over my adjusted MAF
HR.  So, back to the gadgets.  It looks like I might be sweating sooner
than expected.  I might need to mount the trainer tire sooner than expected
also.  It turns out he does do some cycling and even has a spin cycle at
home.  I didn't get too much into his cycling background; too busy
exercising.

Tim

On Wed, Nov 30, 2016 at 9:41 PM, Tim Butterfield 
wrote:

> Patrick,
> I use a Fitbit also.  I took your advice and did some periodic quick
> checks during my session at home this evening.  For my 10 minute session, I
> was only doing about 2.8 mph in about the third lowest gear of my 3x9.
> Cadence didn't show; think I need to adjust the sensor position.  Per the
> Fitbit, my heart rate was about 74 bpm.  I thought I was keeping it real
> low and it seems to be shown by the numbers.  I think I will be way, way
> under MAF for quite a while yet.  It gets a bit higher than that, about 90,
>  just putting on and taking off the brace.
>
> Thanks.
>
> Tim
>
> On Wed, Nov 30, 2016 at 8:54 AM, Deacon Patrick 
> wrote:
>
>> Great points, Tim. I'd not remembered we shared the barefoot and MAF
>> journey years ago. Thanks for the reminder! Yes, I do it all by feel. I
>> recently tried a Fitbit and found I actually fall by feel squarely where I
>> thought I did, based on the reality that the age drop off is less than
>> Mafftone's equation shows.
>>
>> With abandon,
>> Patrick
>>
>> On Tuesday, November 29, 2016 at 10:19:09 PM UTC-7, Tim Butterfield wrote:
>>>
>>> Patrick,
>>>
>>> So, back to the gadgets. :)   Not shown in the picture was the Garmin
>>> 820 on the stem, though it was turned off.  There is also a QuadLock mount
>>> on the bar just in front of that for my iPhone.  For now, I only use that
>>> for the countdown timer to end my session.  My last rides before the
>>> accident had been recording simultaneous data from the Garmin and the
>>> WahooFitness app.  The Tickr X HR strap sends both bluetooth and ANT+ as
>>> does the current Blue SC sensor.  If you look closely at the last picture I
>>> posted, you can just about make out the sensor.
>>>
>>> At the slow speeds I'm doing now, I barely break a sweat, just motion,
>>> no speed at all yet.  The tire was barely touching the trainer, almost free
>>> wheeling.  I have now tightened it up for future rides, but have not
>>> plugged in the controller yet.  I won't do that until I start more strength
>>> training in therapy.
>>>
>>> I remember MAF well.  I promoted it on Barefoot Ted's minimal running
>>> list way back in 2009-10.  I, and I think Tuck also, guessed it was not as
>>> effective for older adults.  I ended up switching to a more lenient HR
>>> method, what felt comfortable.  My rest/max HR at the time was 60/197.  I
>>> haven't tested max in many years.  I'm 52 now and have no aspirations of
>>> ever competing, just staying as healthy as possible.  Before my ACL
>>> accident, average HR on a ride was usually in the 130-140 range with max HR
>>> usually in the 150-170 range.  Rides were under an hour, usually 30-45
>>> minutes.  It was enough to be comfortable without pushing too hard, not
>>> much for hills on those rides either, certainly nothing like what you
>>> have.  I had planned to just slowly build range and ability without pushing
>>> it too hard, still do once I get back to where I was.  I had been reading
>>> Friel's Fast After 50 and had thought of trying some of those ideas, but
>>> was only part when through it and then stopped after the accident.  I may
>>> go back and finish that once I have recovered a bit more.
>>>
>>> For now, going back to following a more strict MAF method might be
>>> beneficial, especially during my recovery phase, so a max of 123 (180-52 =
>>> 128 and then -5 for recovery).  It might be -10, but it's been a while
>>> since I reviewed the method.  Phil was going to have an app also, but it
>>> has been 'coming soon' for quite a long time now.  Once I get there, I can
>>> use the MAF tests to let me know when I plateau and can resume going by
>>> feel.  IIRC, you were pushing for that method way back when.  It seems
>>> funny that we have kind of switched places a bit.  :)  Failing memories are
>>> not helping the recall on the specifics, though, so I could have this
>>> incorrectly.
>>>
>>> Thanks for the reminder.
>>>
>>> Tim
>>>
>>> On Tue, Nov 29, 2016 at 6:23 PM, Deacon Patrick 
>>> wrote:
>>>
>>> Something to consider is a HR monitor so you stay within your aerobic
>>> threshold (not too low, not too high) a la Maffetone. The basic formula is
>>> 180-age for the magic hr. It does an 

Re: [RBW] Re: Help me build my 55 Cheviot

[Bill Lindsay]

I think there is more information that hasn't been shared yet.  There is no 
good reason in my mind that a CX70 front derailer can't work with a 2x8 
drivetrain.  I just went out to the garage and measured a few things.  

I have a 2x10 drivetrain with a CX70 front derailer on it.  The inner width 
of the CX70 cage is 12.0mm.  The outer width of my 10 speed SRAM chain is 
6.2mm.  There's plenty of room.  I measured the maximum width of a SRAM 
PG870 chain on another bike and it is 7.0mm.  There still should be plenty 
of room to fit a 7.0mm chain through a 12.0mm wide front derailer without 
rubbing.  

It would be easy to diagnose if I was looking at it.  At any rate, when ed 
says:  "The chain keeps rubbing the side of the derailleur (CX70) even 
after making adjustment to the limit screws."  Which chainring are you on, 
the 40 or the 26?  Which cog are you in?  Which side of the cage is the 
derailer rubbing on?  Can you see the chain rubbing on the front der?  When 
you turn the appropriate limit screw, can you see the front derailer moving 
in response to your action?

Bill Lindsay
El Cerrito, CA


On Thursday, December 1, 2016 at 10:16:29 AM UTC-8, Philip Kim wrote:
>
>  I would get a 8 speed sora triple front derailleur. works great. i think 
> i have one if you want to just pay for shipping or something.
>
> On Thursday, December 1, 2016 at 7:53:14 AM UTC-5, ed wrote:
>>
>> Hi Belopsky,
>> This morning I realigned the derailleur and it improved just a bit but 
>> there is still rubbing.
>> Thanks for the advise :-)
>>
>> On Thu, Dec 1, 2016 at 8:36 AM, Belopsky  wrote:
>>
>>> Are you sure the derailler is paraller w the chain?
>>>
>>>
>>> On Wednesday, November 30, 2016 at 7:27:26 PM UTC-5, ed wrote:

 I would like to seek your advise to help me build my 55 Cheviot.
 Bought it from Rivendell when I visited them last September 16, 2016.
 The headset, fork, and bottom bracket were pre-installed by Riv.

 This is my first full bike build so pardon my ignorance if I have 
 chosen the wrong set of components to make this work.
 Currently I am having trouble getting my front derailleur to work 
 quietly. 
 The chain keeps rubbing the side of the derailleur (CX70) even after 
 making adjustment to the limit screws.

 These are the gear components installed:

 Shifters - IRD Silver SOS power ratchet Thumb shifters
 Front derailleur - Shimano CX70
 Crank - Sugino XD2 wide/double crank 40t x 26t
 Cassette - SRAM 8 speed 11-32
 Rear derailleur - Shimano Altus (RD-M310)
 Chain - Shimano 8 speed chain IG-51 (116 links then added 2 more links 
 because of the longer chain stay)

 Anyone care to comment/suggest on what I could have done wrong before I 
 give up and just bring my bike to our LBS.

 Ed Fausto

 -- 
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>>>
>>
>>

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[RBW] For Sale: Roof Rack, Brooks Swift Saddle, XT Hub

[Justin Schoop]

I have some items that I'd like to get rid of.

Two Brand new Rocky Mounts Tierod rooftop bike racks, silver in color - $200 
for both $100 for single
Black Brooks Swift Saddle, ridden for less than 20 miles - $80
Brand new Shimano XT M770 read hub, 32h - $40

Saddle and hub prices include shipping. Shipping for racks will be calculated 
if/when sold. 

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Re: [RBW] Re: Help me build my 55 Cheviot

[Belopsky]

The one I built up is basically this:

https://www.flickr.com/photos/bluelug/16535839719

On Thursday, December 1, 2016 at 1:16:29 PM UTC-5, Philip Kim wrote:
>
>  I would get a 8 speed sora triple front derailleur. works great. i think 
> i have one if you want to just pay for shipping or something.
>
> On Thursday, December 1, 2016 at 7:53:14 AM UTC-5, ed wrote:
>>
>> Hi Belopsky,
>> This morning I realigned the derailleur and it improved just a bit but 
>> there is still rubbing.
>> Thanks for the advise :-)
>>
>> On Thu, Dec 1, 2016 at 8:36 AM, Belopsky  wrote:
>>
>>> Are you sure the derailler is paraller w the chain?
>>>
>>>
>>> On Wednesday, November 30, 2016 at 7:27:26 PM UTC-5, ed wrote:

 I would like to seek your advise to help me build my 55 Cheviot.
 Bought it from Rivendell when I visited them last September 16, 2016.
 The headset, fork, and bottom bracket were pre-installed by Riv.

 This is my first full bike build so pardon my ignorance if I have 
 chosen the wrong set of components to make this work.
 Currently I am having trouble getting my front derailleur to work 
 quietly. 
 The chain keeps rubbing the side of the derailleur (CX70) even after 
 making adjustment to the limit screws.

 These are the gear components installed:

 Shifters - IRD Silver SOS power ratchet Thumb shifters
 Front derailleur - Shimano CX70
 Crank - Sugino XD2 wide/double crank 40t x 26t
 Cassette - SRAM 8 speed 11-32
 Rear derailleur - Shimano Altus (RD-M310)
 Chain - Shimano 8 speed chain IG-51 (116 links then added 2 more links 
 because of the longer chain stay)

 Anyone care to comment/suggest on what I could have done wrong before I 
 give up and just bring my bike to our LBS.

 Ed Fausto

 -- 
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>>>
>>
>>

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Re: [RBW] Re: Help me build my 55 Cheviot

[Philip Kim]

 I would get a 8 speed sora triple front derailleur. works great. i think i 
have one if you want to just pay for shipping or something.

On Thursday, December 1, 2016 at 7:53:14 AM UTC-5, ed wrote:
>
> Hi Belopsky,
> This morning I realigned the derailleur and it improved just a bit but 
> there is still rubbing.
> Thanks for the advise :-)
>
> On Thu, Dec 1, 2016 at 8:36 AM, Belopsky  > wrote:
>
>> Are you sure the derailler is paraller w the chain?
>>
>>
>> On Wednesday, November 30, 2016 at 7:27:26 PM UTC-5, ed wrote:
>>>
>>> I would like to seek your advise to help me build my 55 Cheviot.
>>> Bought it from Rivendell when I visited them last September 16, 2016.
>>> The headset, fork, and bottom bracket were pre-installed by Riv.
>>>
>>> This is my first full bike build so pardon my ignorance if I have chosen 
>>> the wrong set of components to make this work.
>>> Currently I am having trouble getting my front derailleur to work 
>>> quietly. 
>>> The chain keeps rubbing the side of the derailleur (CX70) even after 
>>> making adjustment to the limit screws.
>>>
>>> These are the gear components installed:
>>>
>>> Shifters - IRD Silver SOS power ratchet Thumb shifters
>>> Front derailleur - Shimano CX70
>>> Crank - Sugino XD2 wide/double crank 40t x 26t
>>> Cassette - SRAM 8 speed 11-32
>>> Rear derailleur - Shimano Altus (RD-M310)
>>> Chain - Shimano 8 speed chain IG-51 (116 links then added 2 more links 
>>> because of the longer chain stay)
>>>
>>> Anyone care to comment/suggest on what I could have done wrong before I 
>>> give up and just bring my bike to our LBS.
>>>
>>> Ed Fausto
>>>
>>> -- 
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>> For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/d/optout.
>>
>
>

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Re: [RBW] Re: 1985 trek 870 rivified and rebuilt

[Antonioni Vicente]

"Berry Red"

Sent from my iPhone

> On Dec 1, 2016, at 9:21 AM, Hugh Smitham  wrote:
> 
> That's an interesting steerer tube/stem set up. Is that a 1" threadless 
> steerer?
> 
> Great color.
> 
> ~Hugh
> 
> “Life is like riding a bicycle. To keep your balance, you must keep moving.” 
> ― Albert Einstein
> 
> http://velocipeedemusings.com/
> 
> 
> 
>> On Thu, Dec 1, 2016 at 5:47 AM, 'Chris Lampe 2' via RBW Owners Bunch 
>>  wrote:
>> I finally got one!!  1984 Trek 830 frameset.  Probably the only original 
>> component I'll use is the headset, and maybe the BB and crankset.  If I ever 
>> buy a Riv from RBW, I want it close to this color.  
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> 
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[RBW] Re: Poor man's Rivendell Road/Roadeo substitute?

[Bill Lindsay]

Ha!

When Christopher posted a link to a different Google Group thread, I was 
certain it was going to be this one:

https://groups.google.com/forum/#!topic/rbw-owners-bunch/1GtenEm49Ec

Bill Lindsay
El Cerrito, CA

On Thursday, December 1, 2016 at 9:12:22 AM UTC-8, Christopher Cote wrote:
>
> Hi Patrick, have you seen this one? 
> https://groups.google.com/forum/#!topic/internet-bob/cNcGEuM_qWc
>
> I'm tempted by it myself for nostalgic reasons, but I really don't need a 
> "go-fast" bike.
>
>
>>

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Re: [RBW] Re: 1985 trek 870 rivified and rebuilt

[Hugh Smitham]

That's an interesting steerer tube/stem set up. Is that a 1" threadless
steerer?

Great color.

~Hugh

“Life is like riding a bicycle. To keep your balance, you must keep
moving.” ― Albert Einstein

http://velocipeedemusings.com/



On Thu, Dec 1, 2016 at 5:47 AM, 'Chris Lampe 2' via RBW Owners Bunch <
rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com> wrote:

> I finally got one!!  1984 Trek 830 frameset.  Probably the only original
> component I'll use is the headset, and maybe the BB and crankset.  If I
> ever buy a Riv from RBW, I want it close to this color.
>
>
> 
>
>
>
> 
>
>
>
>
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[RBW] Re: Poor man's Rivendell Road/Roadeo substitute?

[Christopher Cote]

Hi Patrick, have you seen this one? 
https://groups.google.com/forum/#!topic/internet-bob/cNcGEuM_qWc

I'm tempted by it myself for nostalgic reasons, but I really don't need a 
"go-fast" bike.

On Saturday, November 19, 2016 at 5:29:29 PM UTC-5, Patrick Moore wrote:
>
> If you wanted the signature Rivendell road ride, but couldn't afford 
> another custom or the Roadeo (and didn't want the Ram -- tried one), and if 
> you thought you might look for an old road racing frame from the '70s, what 
> would you look for? 120 mm OL spacing.
>
> After trying out, once again, the S3X hub on the gofast, the hub gear 
> wheel idea being a quick-swap way to adapt this bike to occasional longer 
> and hilly rides, I find that the lash is a deal killer. So I want a frame 
> to build a bike around my AM hub.
>
> I'd probably give any such frame to Chauncey to have him remove unneeded 
> braze-ons (like icky derailleur bosses and hangar), and have him braze on 
> needed ones, like a roller boss at the seat tube junction and a housing 
> stop mid-top tube for the trigger cable housing, and then have it powder 
> coated.
>
> I did have a decent 1973 Motobecane 2nd level Record, and that was close 
> to what I want, but it wasn't cigar level; it didn't handle quite like my 
> Rivs.
>
> (I am tempted to give Chauncey my gofast, and tell him: "Replicate this." 
> But that would be at least $1200 -- cheap at the price, but more than I 
> ought to consider at this point.)
>
> (Wouldn't it be lovely to have a customized Roadeo, 57 for me, without the 
> derailleur bits?)
>
> Ideas?
>
> Thanks.
>
> Patrick Moore, who just again rode the gofast with 95"/71"/59" S3X in 
> windy ABQ, NM
>
> Aside: As I turned north onto Corrales Road on the way to Stevie's, with 
> wind blowing from the south, I shifted into the 95" and bowled along 
> merrily -- until the road turned and the wind quartered and my cadence 
> dropped like a stone. How much better the ASC would be: you could have that 
> downhill and tailwind gear at say 80", and at 90% have a 72" cruising and 
> at 75% a 59" climbing -- though they say that the ASC also had lashings of 
> lash. The AM, with direct + 11.55% and - 12.5% would give one, say, a 70" 
> direct, a 78" high, and a 61" low -- very usable gears, not to mention 
> coasting.
>
> -- 
> Resumes, LinkedIn profiles, bios, and letters that get interviews.
> By-the-hour resume and LinkedIn coaching.
> Other professional writing services.
> http://www.resumespecialties.com/
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> Patrick Moore
> Alburquerque, Nouvelle Mexique,  Vereinigte Staaten
> **
> **
> *The point which is the pivot of the norm is the motionless center of a 
> circumference on the contours of which all conditions, distinctions, and 
> individualities revolve. *Chuang Tzu
>
> *Stat crux dum volvitur orbis.* *(The cross stands motionless while the 
> world revolves.) *Carthusian motto
>
> *It is *we *who change; *He* remains the same.* Eckhart
>
> *Kinei hos eromenon.* (*It moves [all things] as the beloved.) *Aristotle
>
>
>

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[RBW] Re: Help me build my 55 Cheviot

[Ian A]

Also check the height of the derailleur. I generally find the minimum clearance 
over the big ring gives best alignment. 

Disclaimer: I have no experience with the CX70. 

IanA/Canada. 

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[RBW] FS: 650b Surly 40mm Knobbies, Anyone?

[Patrick Shea]

I have a brand new set of these (with new tubes) from an abandoned 650b
project.

$40 plus shipping?

Cheers,
Patrick Shea

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[RBW] Re: 40-ish mm Tires on Thinner Rims?

[Grant @ Rivendell]

The ISO (int'l standards org) has crystal clear recommendations for inner 
rim width and tire width, but they're not regulations. A couple of years 
ago I posted them in some form somewhere--and we had an internal talk about 
them--and all of us here and tons of you there have had the brake-opening 
experience and the soft-tire mushy-around-corner experience with a narrow 
rim, but that kind of Technical Whinery never sticks. Sheldon's 
chart--thanks for posting it, Patrick--looks pretty close to the ISO 
numbers, and it wouldn't surprise anybody if that's where he got 'em. 
The SILVER/Techtro 559 brakes were designed to address the wider opening 
solution to a 35mm tire on a skinny rim. We specified that and the reach 
and arm shape---and they're much better for it. It would be neat if all 
sidepulls had something like that, but these days in the go-fast community, 
"wide" is 28mm, so there's no need.
The ATLAS rim at 25.4 outer and I forget inner, but it holds up to a 45 
pretty well--although it would violate ISO recommendations at that. The 
Velocity Cliff hanger is nice at 30mm outside. (I dig that it's the inside 
that matters for tire holding, and the outside for brake  opening, but I 
can't break out of my outer-only numbers.)
The Alex DM 24 rim, at 31.7 or 32mm, is great for 45 to 60 tires. Big 
difference in holding. Best big tire non super fatty rim out there, but 
hard to get in 650B/584. We haven on new CLEMS because we paid for the 
tooling to make them. If you read the John Black BLUG post, you might 
wonder where "tooling costs" become a factor, when it wasn't for 
Velocity--it's just a matter of where to cut the straight extrusion before 
rolling it into a hoop. But at ALEX, there must  have been something else 
going on, because we paid a few thousand for it...and now "own" the 
machinery that allows them to roll the 32mm rim into 650B rims. Blah blah 
blah...sorry 'bout that, but I like this rim-width kind of talk, too.

On Monday, November 28, 2016 at 10:32:11 PM UTC-8, Eric Karnes wrote:
>
> Hi all-
>
> Wanted to get your thoughts...
>
> I have a set of OpenPro rims on which I comfortably run 35mm tires on my 
> Hilsen. I'd like to go up to the max knobbies that the bike can run (I'm 
> leaning toward 40mm Clements MSOs). Have people had success running tires 
> this wide on OpenPros or would it be more prudent to invest in a new set of 
> rims?
>
> Thanks!
>
> Eric
>
> ps. If anyone has a spare set of 40-ish mm knobbies you are looking to 
> part with, lemme know!
>

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[RBW] Re: moustache or Albastache bars on a Legolas?

[Forrest Meyer]

I have the Albastache on my 55cm Hillborne (which is up for sale here), and 
I like them a great deal. (I've had the Nitto moustache bars on a couple 
bikes in the past. I wanted to like them, but they were never quite right 
for me.) Sounds like the Albas will work great on the Legolas, which I have 
been using mostly as a pavement bike (great for that with Jack Browns), but 
I think with the Albas I'll use the Legolas as more of a light trails/ 
gravel bike and run Panaracer Pasela TourGuard 37s on it. Thanks, all, for 
the input. 

On Wednesday, November 30, 2016 at 2:54:28 PM UTC-6, Forrest Meyer wrote:
>
> Anyone ever run Albastache or moustache handlebars on a Legolas?
>
>

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[RBW] Re: Where are the Brompton Owners or A Case of the Novembers

[stevew]

Hi all,

A few thoughts on lights - We bought my wife's Brompton off Craigslist with 
the Shimano dyno-hub/light setup.  It works great for her and does not 
interfere with the fold.  I think dyno-hubs are a great way to go, and have 
one on my Ram that I use for brevets, so I would recommend it for a 
Brompton if you ride at night and are OK with the extra cost.

However, we bought my Brompton new, but I didn't want to pay the additional 
cost for the dyno-hub setup.  I use the bike for commuting and getting 
around town, so battery lights are fine for that.  For the front light I 
got a Busch and Muller IXON Core IQ2 
.
  
It's a fantastic light that I mount to the handlebars.  It doesn't 
interfere with the fold and comes off easily if I need to remove it for any 
reason.  The taillight took a little trail and error, though.

At first, I attached a Planet Bike Superflash 

 
to the rear part of the rail on a Brooks saddle.  This worked OK, but due 
to the narrow width of the rail I could never get the clamp to be tight 
enough so that the light stay upright as I bounced along the road.  Next, I 
bought a Busch and Muller DTopLight XS 

 
that I mounted to the reflector mount that sits right above the rear 
fender.  This is pretty much the same light (battery version) that is on my 
wife's Brompton, and was mounted in the same place.  This was not a great 
solution because on this light, the release to open it to replace the 
batteries is located on the underside of the light, which is hard to access 
due to it practically touching the fender.  Trying to open the light, I 
ended up breaking the little tabs that hold the whole thing together, so 
that it started coming apart as I again bounced along the road.

Finally, I took the Cateye LD610 

 
from my Ram and mounted it to the reflector mount using a CatEye Rear Rack 
Bracket 
.  
This works perfectly.  

One pretty big consideration when thinking about attaching a rear light to 
the mount that sits above the fender is to make sure that it is not too 
tall.  This is because when the bike is folded, the fender and light mount 
are upside down, and are very close to the ground.  If the light is too 
tall, the bike will then rest on the light, instead of the little wheel on 
the rear fender, and the Eazy Wheels.  Does that make sense?

Bromptons are great bikes.  Get one.  You need it.  You know you do.

Steve

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Re: [RBW] Where are the Brompton Owners or A Case of the Novembers

[Minh]

Benz,
Thanks for the detailed response, could you share your DIY Ortlieb bag?  I 
am accustomed to high bag prices (Rivendell, Berthoud, as well as too many 
camera bags currently in my closet) but the price for Brompton bags shock 
even me!  

On Thursday, December 1, 2016 at 12:45:29 AM UTC-5, Benz, Sunnyvale, CA 
wrote:
>
> On Tuesday, November 29, 2016 at 6:33:35 AM UTC-8, Minh wrote:
>>
>>
>>- grips-i have the foam ones now, thinking about the ergon ones, 
>>there seems to be some debate on whether they fit w/o cutting on the M 
>> bars
>>
>> The foam cores are fine and durable. I'm still on my fairly ratty ones 
> after 8 years of on-n-off commuting on my M3L.
>
>
>>- brake levers-the stock ones feel terrible to me, i'm leaning 
>>towards some older suntour mt levers
>>
>> My Brompton has the old school levers that look like VO City Bike Brake 
> Levers 
> ,
>  
> except with a plastic body. They're fine for my use.
>  
>
>>
>>- upgrading the easy wheels/fender wheels, mines a little wobbly. 
>> i'm also thinking of adding the rack but not for carry capacity but 
>>instead just to get it more stable folded up and rolling, if i can do 
>> that 
>>another way--the EZ Wheel Extender kit?  then i'd prefer not to add a rack
>>
>> I too thought about adding a rack for rollability. However, after adding 
> the factory Eazy Wheels, I've not had that thought. Nevertheless, there are 
> 3rd 
> party offerings that extend the wheel width-wise 
> ,
>  
> for a more stable platform, even if the factory setup with Eazy Wheels 
> doesn't really topple over easily.
>  
>
>>
>>- front bag options, how big is "too" big, which bags are you using? 
>> C-bag, s-bag, t-bag other?
>>
>> Ahhh...if you're a Rivendell bag collector, you may end up with a 
> substantially smaller bank account with your Brompton. There are all sorts 
> of bags, from Ortlieb to Brompton's own "Game bag". I have a few (ahem) but 
> the one I use most is a converted Ortlieb "Office bag", made from an old 
> Office bag, the stock Brompton carrier and some P-clamps. It's 
> weather-proof and plenty big enough for my commute into work. My biggest 
> one is the Demano Brompton bag 
> , which is 
> roughly equivalent to Timbuktu's largest messenger bag.
>
> I'll like to point out that I don't know why Brompton dealers don't send 
> testers out with a loaded front bag. Such a setup is significantly more 
> stable than the "naked" Brompton with its tiny wheels and low trail 
> geometry (markedly different from most bikes).
>
>
>>- Some of you mentioned going with the dyno option, my two Rivendells 
>>have dyno-hubs because i never want to worry about having lights (or 
>> worry 
>>about charging them) since i need a way to get home, but with the 
>> Brompton, 
>>i would just fold it up and call a taxi.   Is it that useful to have them 
>>over a battery light?  But i will stop in at a dealer to look at how the 
>>wiring is run if i do decide to go dyno hub.
>>
>> I retrofitted my Brompton with a Schmidt dynamo hub and a B Lumotec IQ2 
> Eyc light (battery rear). The wiring is minimal (short fork blades) and 
> don't interfere with the fold at all. If you can spare the cash, just do it 
> because it relieves one from worrying about charging the battery. Plus on 
> the Brompton with its folding handlebar (where one usually puts a battery 
> light), it's useful to not have the light stick out in the folded package.
>
>
>>- Do you carry a lock?  I know that you should be able to take these 
>>into wherever you're going but do you keep a lock in case of emergency? 
>> which one has worked for you?
>>
>> I don't carry a lock with my Brompton and don't see the need to. 
> Everywhere I go, I can just fold and bring it along. I occasionally eat at 
> fancy restaurants in SF, and I just coat-check the thing – the staff is 
> usually so enthralled with it that they are more than happy to deal with 
> it. If I go shopping with it, I just throw it on the cart. So far, I'm 
> batting 1.000 for not needing a lock and not having to need a lock.
>
>
>>- Have you had to carry a 'cover' for the bike folded to take them to 
>>certain places?  I have the brompton bag that covers it but not sure if i 
>>need to carry it around.
>>
>> Nope. People without Bromptons are usually quite surprised by how small 
> and neat it folds, so that positive curiosity works to my favor in not 
> having to disguise it.
>
>
>>- Are the Schwalbe the only tire options--i'm generally happy with 
>>them in the bigger sizes, but just wondering.
>>
>> Brompton has its own line of tires, but I like the Schwalbe Kojaks the 
> best. They roll well and don't 

Re: [RBW] Clem Smith Jr with Alternate Handlebars? - Choco-moose

[Jim Bronson]

Anyone tried Noodles?  If so how did that work out?

On Thu, Oct 27, 2016 at 1:34 PM, mike smith 
wrote:

> Has anyone changed handlebars on the CSJ?  I like the current bars but I'm
> too upright? 59cm Frame.
>
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[RBW] Re: 25 years now

[Belopsky]

25 years ago I was 3 and living in a country that was trying to figure out 
how to operate in post-soviet time.

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[RBW] Re: Bicycle tattoos

[Marc Irwin]

Those are awesome Jenny!

On Wednesday, November 30, 2016 at 4:21:11 PM UTC-5, jenny klug wrote:
>
> I have a couple of bicycle-themed tattoos I thought y'all might get a kick 
> out of--
>
> one dedicated to my favorite pastime-- 
> https://www.instagram.com/p/BLmbiqHBG6X/?taken-by=jenny_klug=en
>
> and one dedicated to my first childhood friend, Ramona Quimby--
> https://www.instagram.com/p/BEG63tMLA8e/?taken-by=jenny_klug=en
>
> your pal,
> --jenny @ RBW
>
> On Saturday, November 19, 2016 at 6:00:28 PM UTC-8, Kai Vierstra wrote:
>>
>> Because sure, maybe I'd get a head badge on my head, I'd love to see what 
>> bicycle related symbolism people have had permanently affixed to themselves.
>>
>> -Kai Vierstra 
>> Brooklyn NY (boasting over 10,000 tattoo shops within unicycling distance)
>>
>

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[RBW] Re: 1985 trek 870 rivified and rebuilt

['Chris Lampe 2' via RBW Owners Bunch]

I finally got one!!  1984 Trek 830 frameset.  Probably the only original 
component I'll use is the headset, and maybe the BB and crankset.  If I 
ever buy a Riv from RBW, I want it close to this color.  









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[RBW] Re: moustache or Albastache bars on a Legolas?

[Chris Birkenmaier]

I'm also in the category of not a Legola but I tried an albastache on a 1986 
Pinarello. At first I didn't take to it but after more riding time I now really 
love the positions I get on it. So much so that if I get a Rodeo or Roadini 
that would be my bar. 

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Re: [RBW] Help me build my 55 Cheviot

[Ed Fausto]

Hi Joe,
I think you are right,  the CX70 derailleur cage is very narrow no matter
how much fine tuning I do it still keeps rubbing.
When I picked up my Cheviot at Riv, as per their recommendation I bought
from them the CX70 together with the XD2 double not knowing that I will be
using a 8 speed gear system.
Thanks Joe :-)

On Thu, Dec 1, 2016 at 9:42 AM, Joe Bernard  wrote:

> You need an 8-speed front derailer like the Shimano Claris on my
> Appaloosa. The CX70 is a narrow 10-speed derailer which probably works ok
> on 9, too, but I'm sure it's too narrow for your 8-speed chain.
>
> http://www.jensonusa.com/!NcrNigjtMnfSkpgnLSyZ3A!/
> Shimano-Claris-FD-2400-Front-Derailleur?utm_source=FRGL&
> utm_medium=organic_source=googleads_medium=cpc_
> campaign=shopping_us_keyword==CjwKEAiAjvrBBRDxm_
> nRusW3q1QSJAAzRI1t7_P_y28TGYIEFfvnGOz-yk6XTICg0APHG5tr5BC-3xoCp8Pw_wcB
>
> Joe Bernard
> Vallejo, CA.
>
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Re: [RBW] Re: Help me build my 55 Cheviot

[Ed Fausto]

Hi Belopsky,
This morning I realigned the derailleur and it improved just a bit but
there is still rubbing.
Thanks for the advise :-)

On Thu, Dec 1, 2016 at 8:36 AM, Belopsky  wrote:

> Are you sure the derailler is paraller w the chain?
>
>
> On Wednesday, November 30, 2016 at 7:27:26 PM UTC-5, ed wrote:
>>
>> I would like to seek your advise to help me build my 55 Cheviot.
>> Bought it from Rivendell when I visited them last September 16, 2016.
>> The headset, fork, and bottom bracket were pre-installed by Riv.
>>
>> This is my first full bike build so pardon my ignorance if I have chosen
>> the wrong set of components to make this work.
>> Currently I am having trouble getting my front derailleur to work
>> quietly.
>> The chain keeps rubbing the side of the derailleur (CX70) even after
>> making adjustment to the limit screws.
>>
>> These are the gear components installed:
>>
>> Shifters - IRD Silver SOS power ratchet Thumb shifters
>> Front derailleur - Shimano CX70
>> Crank - Sugino XD2 wide/double crank 40t x 26t
>> Cassette - SRAM 8 speed 11-32
>> Rear derailleur - Shimano Altus (RD-M310)
>> Chain - Shimano 8 speed chain IG-51 (116 links then added 2 more links
>> because of the longer chain stay)
>>
>> Anyone care to comment/suggest on what I could have done wrong before I
>> give up and just bring my bike to our LBS.
>>
>> Ed Fausto
>>
>> --
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[RBW] Re: Choosing between Sam and Joe

[Joe Bernard]

That's a good point, John. I have big tires on my Appaloosa and the CX70s clear 
them easily with one end of the cable yoke unhooked. Also, to reiterate my 
earlier post, I can't recommend these brakes enough. Great modulation, great 
power, no squeals, they just work. The only drawback is my other bikes have 
v-brakes and now I'm annoyed with them ;-)

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[RBW] Re: 25 years now

[ascpgh]

I was at InterBike in '91 and had the same experience when I saw the 
Bridgestone model lineup. Happy to have worked with them for those few 
years, and helped folks find some really sweet-riding and smartly outfitted 
bikes. A few myself too. 

Andy Cheatham
Pittsburgh PA

On Wednesday, November 30, 2016 at 10:23:48 PM UTC-5, RonaTD wrote:
>
> Please indulge me a little reminiscence. Riding home from work tonight on 
> on my Cheviot, I passed by the bike shop where, almost 25 years ago to the 
> day, I was handed The 1992 Bridgestone Bicycle Catalog. After about 30 
> seconds of looking at pages 36&37, I handed over my credit card and changed 
> the course of my life. The XO-1 was exactly what I was looking for, as if 
> Grant Petersen had said, "So, Ted, what can we build for you?" Twenty-five 
> years and a reasonable number of bikes later, I am ever more grateful for 
> Grant's contributions to beautiful, common-sense bicycle design and 
> components. 
>
> Ted Durant
> Milwaukee, WI USA
>

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[RBW] Re: moustache or Albastache bars on a Legolas?

[Matt B.]

Also not a legolas example but I do have the mustaches on an all-rounder 
with similar geometry and love them, especially for riding in the woods.  
In my case I prefer mustache to albastache because of the narrower width 
and slightly deeper drop which suit my build better.



On Wednesday, November 30, 2016 at 3:54:28 PM UTC-5, Forrest Meyer wrote:
>
> Anyone ever run Albastache or moustache handlebars on a Legolas?
>
>

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