[RBW] Re: Compass Loup Loup Pass 650Bx38

2014-03-25 Thread Michael
Let us know how easily they mount on Synergies, too, please. Particularly 
the bead seating. Thanks.

I have Hetres now, but when I need new tires I will be trying to decide 
 between these vs. Hetres.

I wonder if one is less prone to flats than the other?

Looking forward to the ride report, too. God bless you and have a great 
time!!

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[RBW] Re: FS: Park Torque, Nitto, Pletscher, Brooks, Power Grips, bell, seatpost

2014-03-25 Thread Michael


 Try this link if above doesn't work:

 http://www.flickr.com/photos/70237737@N00/sets/72157642885271225/

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[RBW] Re: FS: Park Torque, Nitto, Pletscher, Brooks, Power Grips, bell, seatpost

2014-03-25 Thread Michael


 PS - when PM-ing me, please send your mailing address, if buying, and your 
 cost limit to ship. That way I can just send it off when I take it to the 
 UPS place if it is going to cost less than your limit. Saves me a trip. 
 Thanks. After shipping I will email you with receipt, tracking number, and 
 total price with the shipping fee, whatever it is, so you can paypal me.


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Re: [RBW] FS/WTT - Chris King, 10 Speed STI, WI Eno, Nitto, Tires

2014-03-25 Thread Michael
Tony,
Does that 7cm Nitto stem say Nitto or Technomic on the stem?
190mm rise or 225?

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[RBW] Re: FS: Rivendell SaddleSack medium olive

2014-03-25 Thread Brad Mitchell
Sold! Thanks all



On Sunday, March 23, 2014 3:42:57 PM UTC-5, Brad Mitchell wrote:

 I have too many bags, and am trying to cut back. I have a really nice 
 medium size SaddleSack if anyone is interested..figured I'd post here first 
 before trying eBay. Has some of the usual scuff marks, otherwise no rips, 
 tears, etc. All zippers and buttons work perfectly. Really nice shape. 
 Would like $150, which would include shipping to the lower 48. 

 I also have a vintage Schwinn NOS saddlebag support (basically the same 
 design as the old Rivendell Silver Hupe) that also works well with this 
 bag. Can throw that in for an extra $30.

 Please let me know off-list if interested (frit...@gmail.com). Thanks!

 brad


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Re: [RBW] Single-Chainring Drivetrains

2014-03-25 Thread Sine Wave
Of course, if one goes with a 10 speed+ setup, the shifters will have to be
changed  as well. And I'm guessing the angle of the chainstays on the
Hunqapillar with 135 spacing will require a BB change if using a larger
single chainring. (Sorry.. using a tablet and stray contact with the screen
caused a premature send. Lol.

On Monday, March 24, 2014, Sine Wave sinewav...@gmail.com wrote:

 Of course, if one goes with a 10 speed+ setup, the shifters will have to
 be changed  as well. And I'm guessing the angle of the chainstays on the
 Hunqapillar with 135 spacing will require a BB change

 On Monday, March 24, 2014, Philip Williamson 
 philip.william...@gmail.comjavascript:_e(%7B%7D,'cvml','philip.william...@gmail.com');
 wrote:

 I was looking at these, too. Apparently the thick/thin chainrings are the
 new thing. I could go with a 1x9 for a bike...

 Philip
 www.biketinker.com

 On Sunday, March 23, 2014 4:52:31 PM UTC-7, Sine Wave wrote:

 Check out the Wolf Tooth chainrings; they're designed specifically to
 work with 1xX drive trains and supposedly obviate the need for any sort of
 chain keeper. I haven't used one but I am planning on on getting one. And
 they make them for 110bcd cranks. Also, the shimano shadow plus RD would be
 worth looking into. You would have to go with a 10 speed setup for that
 though I think. But you would gain more ratios for the bottom and top end.

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Re: [RBW] Single-Chainring Drivetrains

2014-03-25 Thread Sine Wave
I agree. In fact, I only have one gear. But I was just throwing out options
for those who want more.

On Monday, March 24, 2014, Matthew J matthewj...@gmail.com wrote:

 Most gears I have are 1x5.  Could not be happier.

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[RBW] FS: ebisu 61.5 custom

2014-03-25 Thread Joe c.
https://m.flickr.com/#/photos/121039961@N02/

$3800. On display at Jitensha if you want to test ride. It's posted on I bob 
with the components list. Thanks!

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[RBW] Re: Frozen, then sloppy, spring ramble

2014-03-25 Thread Deacon Patrick
Thanks, guys. A few more details for the snow-curious.

The only sounds I've heard snow make are the whmp of the crust 
collapsing, usually under my weight -- a sound you do not want to hear on a 
slope barren 30-50˚ because that means you just triggered an avalanche; and 
the plink plink of a wet snow on my face and/or hood as it falls.

Ice sings because of the expansion or compression from heat change and 
shifting from currents underneath. The bigger the body of water, the more 
varied the tones. So the change in heat from a rising or setting sun in 
spring (in fall they wouldn't be frozen) does the trick. I've only heard 
the singing on lakes frozen edge to edge.

There was no gradually getting deeper in the snow when I tried it at speed 
in the hopes of staying on top. there was a crust of snow (melted and 
refrozen by the sun/night) on top of 4' - 5' of powder. Once you crunch 
through the crust (whether walking or riding), you are down a good 2'-3' in 
the power, with the crust surrounding you.

The trail was fascinating in that you could see the power of the sun. Those 
areas that get full sun had no snow. Those areas that were shaded had 5' of 
snow, and they were often 10' apart. Made riding a wee be tricky, so there 
was a lot of LCG (lowest common gear).

With abandon,
Patrick 

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Re: [RBW] FS/WTT - Chris King, 10 Speed STI, WI Eno, Nitto, Tires

2014-03-25 Thread Tony DeFilippo
Hey Michael,  it says 'Nitto' and the measurement from the stem nut to the
base of the stem is 210mm...  I'm not sure where you measure official
'rise' from.  It's in great shape;

http://tonydphoto.smugmug.com/Personal/Tonys-Bike-Stuff-for-Sale/i-NbvcRhH

Tony



On Tue, Mar 25, 2014 at 2:39 AM, Michael john11.2...@gmail.com wrote:

 Tony,
 Does that 7cm Nitto stem say Nitto or Technomic on the stem?
 190mm rise or 225?

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Re: [RBW] Re: Compass Loup Loup Pass 650Bx38

2014-03-25 Thread Steve Palincsar

On 03/25/2014 02:02 AM, Michael wrote:
Let us know how easily they mount on Synergies, too, please. 
Particularly the bead seating. Thanks.


Bead seating issues on Synergy rims are due to the rim, not the tire.

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[RBW] A case for clearance and canti's

2014-03-25 Thread Conway Bennett
Hi all,

I read the RBW OB posts regularly and post sporadically.  I've never posted 
pictures because I never sorted out how to do it form my iPhone.  In any case,  
I just plugged the phone into the computer so meet my Samuel Hillborne.  It was 
one of the web specials with the non creamed head tube which I find more 
understated.  Pretty standard set up.  Its a 56 with the Riv build kit but 
Keven was good enough to do the old switcharoo with the stem and upgrade the 
levers to the TRP variety for the difference.  I had already purchased a the 
Atlas wheelset with Lil' Bens for my Cross Check but saved them for the Sam and 
ended up with Rock  Roads on the Surly.  That's a low brow pletscher Athlete 
2-B up front that serves its purpose and does it well.  The H'bar bag is the 
old style brand V with all Velcro straps that really only works on drops.  I 
visited HQ last spring and folks were pining for it.  Thin  Gripsters, PDW rear 
fender (the front is the rear on my xCheck), VO retro bottle cages, saddle and 
post and some dirty old bandannas to keep everything in place.  And a small 
saddle sack that I do NOT like.  The thing will rub the tire if you look at it 
wrong.  Anybody want to trade for a Swift Zeitgeist?  The cockpit is a 46 
noodle with amber shellac over green clothe over cork with Tektro interrupters 
and requisite bell.

Now down to the reason for my post.  Its not even close to Spring here in 
Chicago but the sun was out today and it maybe hit 30 but never with the 
windchill.  The ground has thawed and is viscous.  Notice what looks to be a 
birds nest lodged under the fork crown and around the side pulls.  SH and I 
slowed to a grinding halt.  Grinding Halt is an oxymoron, right?  I had a 
another decent ride yesterday on the border of Cook and DuPage counties near 
Salt Creek.  It was significantly colder and I was under dressed so I wasn't 
going to be futzing with photos but it did happen.

https://m.flickr.com/#/photos/102621504@N05/13402716234/in/photostream/ 


Fair winds,

Captain Conway

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[RBW] Re: How do you post pictures to the list?

2014-03-25 Thread Conway Bennett
Thanks for the feedback.  Posted.

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[RBW] Re: Single-Chainring Drivetrains

2014-03-25 Thread Deacon Patrick
Ok. So I'm now caught up. I understand the cost and how to shift to a 
double 40-24. What range could I get if I wanted to go single ring front 
and change the cassette (currently an 8 speed 11-32), without changing 
shifters to get the maximum range out of a 24 or 26 ring up front? I have 
Silver SOS thumb shifters. Can they handle a 10 speed cassette?

With abandon,
Patrick

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[RBW] Re: How do you post pictures to the list?

2014-03-25 Thread Ron Mc
I think many people use the Attach a file option, but I'm with Bill - I 
like to use the Insert Image widget and URL from my photobucket

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v728/bulldog1935/decoy/zagato.jpg


On Tuesday, March 25, 2014 7:43:45 AM UTC-5, Conway Bennett wrote:

 Thanks for the feedback.  Posted.

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[RBW] Re: Single-Chainring Drivetrains

2014-03-25 Thread Deacon Patrick
I found expander sprocket for a 10-speed 
cassette: 
http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/us/en/hope-t-rex-expander-sprocket/rp-prod119003
 
which then gives an 11-40 range. Will a 10-speed cassette require different 
shifters, derailure, etc?

RIv. sells the 9-speed cassette (for $50) that is 12-36. Does moving to a 9 
from an 8 require a change in drivetrain parts, or is it interchangeable (I 
know I'd need a new chain). Anyone know of an expander sprocket for 9-speed?

With abandon,
Patrick

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[RBW] Re: A case for clearance and canti's

2014-03-25 Thread blakcloud
I am sure it felt good to get out and try your SH. The bike looks good. 



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Re: [RBW] FS/WTT - Chris King, 10 Speed STI, WI Eno, Nitto, Tires

2014-03-25 Thread blakcloud
And yes that is what I meant! Thanks for catching that mistake.

On Monday, March 24, 2014 11:59:31 PM UTC-4, Bill Lindsay wrote:

 and by 3/16th of course you mean 3/32nd.

 ;-)



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[RBW] Re: A case for clearance and canti's

2014-03-25 Thread Tom Goodmann
What a season it has been up there!  Our son is dying to re-injure himself 
in cyclocross . . .  Nice build; I benefited from the same deal on those 
framesets a year ago, and am still learning happily from the Sam, as it is 
different from any bike I've ever owned. I'm eager to try it with drops, 
though now it cruises with Albatross bars, per Riv build kit, and I do 
appreciate 'em.  --Tom/ rainy in Miami today . . . maybe it is time to 
mount those fenders

On Tuesday, March 25, 2014 9:39:18 AM UTC-4, blakcloud wrote:

 I am sure it felt good to get out and try your SH. The bike looks good. 





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Re: [RBW] FS/WTT - Chris King, 10 Speed STI, WI Eno, Nitto, Tires

2014-03-25 Thread Tony DeFilippo
Another addition to the list;

$160 obo for both

Supernova E3 Pro 2 Dyno Headlight (black)
Supernova E3 TL 2 Rack Mount Dyno Taillight (black)

http://www.peterwhitecycles.com/supernova.asp

I've used these for almost a year now but as I move stuff around and
rationalize the build's of my new Saluki I think I can do without this set.
The taillight is fed right off the headlight and they are meant to work as
a pair, I don't htink the taillight works without the headlight being
present.  Great bright light w/ a concentrated beam.  One of the tail light
LED's got a bit grounded down from something... not sure what. I can
provide a picture but it doesn't impact the visibility.  The headlight also
includes the Supernova 'multi-mount'.

Also another trade target (something I'd like but don't have);

Brooks B17 (dark brown preferred)
Brooks Flyer (dark brown preferred)

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[RBW] FS: Original Quickbeam Wheels $107

2014-03-25 Thread Philip Williamson
Must. Not. Hoard... Wheels! Must... Not...

Good luck with the sale (probably already gone). I'm overstocked on fixed 
wheels - it's normal road wheels I'm short on.

Am I the only one who noticed that the bottom has finally fallen out of the 
fixed gear market? NJS bargains and cheap quality track wheels galore on 
Craigslist recently.

Philip
www.biketinker.com

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[RBW] Re: A case for clearance and canti's

2014-03-25 Thread Conway Bennett
It gets plenty of use but had been pretty sedentary since January.  Too much 
snow and what better place to store it then the bike lanes?

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[RBW] Re: Single-Chainring Drivetrains

2014-03-25 Thread Shoji Takahashi
Hi Patrick,
I read through the thread, and I hope I understand what you're trying to do:
The riding I do is mostly in the 24...-- Is the 24T adequate? Is it too 
high or too low for your 8-spd 11-32 cassette? Do you spend your time 
mainly on the 11 or mainly on the 32 or in the middle (or maybe the terrain 
rolls so much that you shift through the entire cassette?).

Then you write but then there are sections of flat and down where pedaling 
is needed at higher speeds.-- is this mainly in the 36T middle ring? (You 
mentioned that the 46T doesn't get much use.) Does the 36T with the 8-spd 
11-32 offer a good range for your needs? On  those flats, do you spend a 
lot of time on the 11 and could use a larger front ring? 

If you got the standard Riv build, I'm guessing that you could switch from 
8 to 9 without much pain. But, the IRD/Riv 8-spd is 12-34 and may just do 
the trick for you (compared to the 9-sp 12-36). Would the 36 rear serve you 
better than 34? Perhaps you could use a little more top end 11 vs 12 (8-spd 
11-32 cassette)? 

Since it sounds like you're interested in changing the chainrings, would 
40/24 be better than 36/24 (essentially the current state)? Maybe you'd be 
better served with something a little higher? 42/26? It would depend on 
what gears you use most.

Good luck!
Shoji


On Tuesday, March 25, 2014 9:28:26 AM UTC-4, Deacon Patrick wrote:

 I found expander sprocket for a 10-speed cassette: 
 http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/us/en/hope-t-rex-expander-sprocket/rp-prod119003which
  then gives an 11-40 range. Will a 10-speed cassette require different 
 shifters, derailure, etc?

 RIv. sells the 9-speed cassette (for $50) that is 12-36. Does moving to a 
 9 from an 8 require a change in drivetrain parts, or is it interchangeable 
 (I know I'd need a new chain). Anyone know of an expander sprocket for 
 9-speed?

 With abandon,
 Patrick



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[RBW] FS: Men's Den Haag Cycling Jersey (Jersey masquerading as a Polo shirt)

2014-03-25 Thread skip0327
While at NAHBS a few weeks ago, I bought a cycling jersey on an impulse. 
The jersey really isn’t my particular style so I’m offering to sell at the 
price I paid at the show -- $85.00; current online price is $120.00. This 
jersey is referred to as the Den Haag, size large  the color is Rochester 
Lilac. The jersey is sealed in the original package. Please check the link 
for the specifics.  Price includes shipping  PayPal fees to anywhere in 
the CONUS.

Thanks, Skip

http://roadholland.com/collections/mens/products/den-haag

Note: Posted on I-Bob  Paceline too, need to sell this jersey.

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[RBW] Re: A case for clearance and canti's

2014-03-25 Thread Cyclofiend Jim
Nice ride and great adventure!  Yeah, when that mud hits a certain 
consistency, you can't do too much.  Good on ya for trying!

May the summer hold many adventurous miles!  Keep bringing those photos and 
reports.

- Jim / cyclofiend.com

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Re: [RBW] Re: Bosco Bullmoose Bars

2014-03-25 Thread Ron Mc
I remain a fan of the original Nitto moustache, but can see advantages to 
the slightly wider, slightly shallower Albastache. 

On Monday, March 24, 2014 8:06:50 PM UTC-5, Shoji Takahashi wrote:

 Sounds like you should consider albastache, too. Sorry to add to the 
 choices! I think Christopher Chen moved from Noodles to Albatross to 
 Albastache on his Hilsen, and he mentioned being out on the albatross 
 curves a lot.

 I have the standard bullmoose and switch between it and the Noodles. I 
 like the bullmoose-- very stable and lots of leverage. I have the albatross 
 on my cross check set up as a cruiser. With my hands on the ends, I can 
 sometimes pull/rotate 'em in the stem (particularly when it's raining out). 
 You won't get that with the bullmoose.

 I think the bullmoose is great for technical, because you can point the 
 wheel precisely where you want. (Though it's w i d e, which might be a 
 problem on narrower trails.) They're comfortable for a time, and you can 
 move your hands along the wide sweep... but it's not the same as having 
 different hand positions on the albatross or drops (or moustache, which I 
 also have).

 Good luck Patrick! 


 On Monday, March 24, 2014 5:24:30 PM UTC-4, Deacon Patrick wrote:

 I'm glad you mentioned the standard bullmoose, René. Thank you. My 
 favorite position on the Albatross is the outer curve, but I have no brakes 
 there, so I have to ride the handles on the downhills. It seems I could 
 well end up with the same issue with the Bosco's. How are the standard 
 bullmoose for long days in the saddle? (5-8 hours.)

 With abandon,
 Patrick 

 On Monday, March 24, 2014 12:19:30 AM UTC-6, René wrote:

 After having several flavors of the Bosco bars and really liking them 
 for many reasons, I went back to the traditional Bullmoose bars on my 
 Hunqapillar, but raised them as high as feasible. I like this setup even 
 more. With the Boscos, my hands kept hurting and when riding rough terrain, 
 I would find myself having to grip the bars very tightly (I don't think the 
 reverse levers helped in this regard) to provent my hands from sliding 
 forward. This created some tendinitis and hand pain that took a long time 
 to go away.

 The higher standard Bullmoose bars take care of my neck and hand pain, 
 and I feel I have much better control of the bike now. 

 René 


 On Sun, Mar 23, 2014 at 9:21 PM, Peter Morgano uscpet...@gmail.comwrote:

 I have had albas regular Boscos and now the bull moose bars. They 
 definitely give me more power and stiffness when climbing, a really solid 
 feeling. 
 On Mar 24, 2014 12:10 AM, DS davec...@gmail.com wrote:

 I'm really interested in responses to this as well as I'm really on 
 the fence about which bars to use on my Hunq build (still a few months 
 before delivery). Nothing to add, just want to get replies in my inbox.

 On Sunday, March 23, 2014 5:32:39 PM UTC-7, Deacon Patrick wrote:

 I’d love to hear from someone who rides a lot of trails, especially 
 with roots, rocks, snug tree gaps twists, and the like, how they ride. 
 How 
 do they climb? How big a difference does the solidness make in torque 
 when 
 climbing/maneuvering over/around obstacles and when descending with 
 weight 
 back on the bars at the brakes? How are they for long mellow parts? Any 
 comparisons with the Albatross are appreciated as well.

 My sole issue with the Albatross is the feeling that when I pull on 
 the bars or absorb a bump with elbow bend that they don’t feel as solid 
 as 
 I would like. I love every other aspect of them, so hate to save to try 
 a 
 new cockpit if I’m loosing something in the process.
  
 With abandon,
 Patrick

 *www.MindYourHeadCoop.org http://www.MindYourHeadCoop.org*
 *www.OurHolyConception.org http://www.OurHolyConception.org*
  
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[RBW] Re: A case for clearance and canti's

2014-03-25 Thread Cyclofiend Jim
also - in terms of sharing links - I was wondering why Flickr was rendering 
so weird on my main computer (figured they were having trouble server 
side...) and then realized you'd shared the mobile version - the url starts 
with m.flickr 

Here's the link to the whole photoset via the normal interface:

http://www.flickr.com/photos/102621504@N05

- J

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[RBW] FS: 27 wheelset; Campy NR hubs, Super Champion Gentleman 81 rims, DT spokes, Jim Langley Built Tough, Suntour 6spd FW

2014-03-25 Thread Andrew Letton
FS: A very nice 27 wheelset

- Campy NR 36 hole hubs that came on my first real bike and are vintage 
1971, with straight quick release levers, smooth bearings
- Rims are Super Champion Gentleman 81 rims running perfectly true, minimal 
sidewall wear
- 14 gauge DT stainless spokes
- Built for me by Jim Langley himself, including his Built Tough stickers
- includes a 13-21 Suntour 6spd FW
- includes Specialized 27x1 Turbo S tires, but they're so old that they 
are probably not good for much more than protecting the rims during 
shipping. (They do hold air.)

- A bit dirty from being in storage for many years.

$200 firm, plus shipping.
SF Bay Area meet up preferred.  I live in the Santa Cruz Mountains and work in 
Scotts Valley. 

Photos possible for serious buyers.  Please reply off-list.


Thanks for reading...

cheers,Andrew

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[RBW] FS: 27 wheelset; Campy NR hubs, Super Champion Gentleman 81 rims, DT spokes, Jim Langley Built Tough, Suntour 6spd FW

2014-03-25 Thread Andrew Letton
FS: A very nice 27 wheelset

- Campy NR 36 hole hubs that came on my first real bike and are vintage 
1971, with straight quick release levers, smooth bearings
- Rims are Super Champion Gentleman 81 rims running perfectly true, minimal 
sidewall wear
- 14 gauge DT stainless spokes
- Built for me by Jim Langley himself, including his Built Tough stickers
- includes a 13-21 Suntour 6spd FW
- includes Specialized 27x1 Turbo S tires, but they're so old that they 
are probably not good for much more than protecting the rims during 
shipping. (They do hold air.)

- A bit dirty from being in storage for many years.

$200, plus shipping.
SF Bay Area meet up preferred.  I live in the Santa Cruz Mountains and work in 
Scotts Valley. 

Photos possible for serious buyers.  Please reply off-list.


Thanks for reading...

cheers,Andrew

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[RBW] FS/FT Fixed gear 650b wheeels

2014-03-25 Thread JL
Anyone want to swap wheels? 

Mine-120/100 spaced white industries track hubs (fixed/free) X velo-orange 
diagonale 32h. All polished silver. (650b)

Yours- 130 spacing low miles wheelset with reliable rims (650b)

Optionally the Fixed gear /SS wheels also for sale:$350 free shipping in 
conusa. 

Thanks
Reply offlist
Jason
sf,ca

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[RBW] Re: FS: Original Quickbeam Wheels $107

2014-03-25 Thread Mike K.
Are they 700c?

- Mike

On Monday, March 24, 2014 10:01:33 PM UTC-5, Eric Norris wrote:

 These are the original wheels that came with my first-gen green Quickbeam. 
 Nice, sturdy wheels that would love a set of tires 28 or wider. Free/Free 
 rear hub is fitted for a quick release skewer (not shown in the photo).

 I used these for a short time. They've spent most of their life doing 
 nothing much, and are ready for adventures on *your* bike. Straight and 
 true, but in need of some cleaning. 

 Included are a cog and lockring and a set of Paselas with some life left 
 in them. 

 https://www.flickr.com/photos/campyonlyguy/13395350464/

 $107 includes shipping in the CONUS.

 Eric N
 www.CampyOnly.com
 CampyOnlyGuy.blogspot.com
 Twitter: @CampyOnlyGuy


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[RBW] Re: Bosco Bullmoose Bars

2014-03-25 Thread Coconutbill


  like tires, each one has its application.

the bosco bullmoose will be at home on your Hunq. 

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[RBW] Quickbeam Wheels SOLD

2014-03-25 Thread Eric Norris
The Quickbeam wheels have been sold. Thanks to everyone who expressed interest. 

–Eric N
Sent from my iPhone 5S

 On Mar 25, 2014, at 9:18 AM, Mike K. mikehkai...@gmail.com wrote:
 
 Are they 700c?
 
 - Mike
 
 On Monday, March 24, 2014 10:01:33 PM UTC-5, Eric Norris wrote:
 These are the original wheels that came with my first-gen green Quickbeam. 
 Nice, sturdy wheels that would love a set of tires 28 or wider. Free/Free 
 rear hub is fitted for a quick release skewer (not shown in the photo).
 
 I used these for a short time. They've spent most of their life doing 
 nothing much, and are ready for adventures on your bike. Straight and true, 
 but in need of some cleaning. 
 
 Included are a cog and lockring and a set of Paselas with some life left in 
 them. 
 
 https://www.flickr.com/photos/campyonlyguy/13395350464/
 
 $107 includes shipping in the CONUS.
 
 Eric N
 www.CampyOnly.com
 CampyOnlyGuy.blogspot.com
 Twitter: @CampyOnlyGuy
 
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[RBW] Re: A case for clearance and canti's

2014-03-25 Thread Deacon Patrick
Thanks for the standard link, Jim.

Conway, Sam is sportin' one serious handlebar mustache! Put a mustache 
handlebar on there for double effect. Grin.

With abandon,
Patrick

On Tuesday, March 25, 2014 9:35:35 AM UTC-6, Cyclofiend Jim wrote:

 also - in terms of sharing links - I was wondering why Flickr was 
 rendering so weird on my main computer (figured they were having trouble 
 server side...) and then realized you'd shared the mobile version - the url 
 starts with m.flickr 

 Here's the link to the whole photoset via the normal interface:

 http://www.flickr.com/photos/102621504@N05

 - J


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[RBW] Re: Single-Chainring Drivetrains

2014-03-25 Thread Deacon Patrick
Thanks, Shoji. As I play with this more, It makes sense to me to take 
things one step at a time. I am thinking:

-- update cassette to 9-speed 12-36. This will allow me to ride most all 
the time in my middle chainring with my current 24/36/46 front chain rings. 
(You are right, I almost never use my 46). But that will be a huge 
improvement over currently having to shift all the time from small to 
middle front cogs on the steep rolling terrain. (my small rear cog needs 
replacing anyway, and I just confirmed with Riv that going to 9 speed from 
8 is easy.

-- Based on what I learn riding that, I can explore other options.

Sorry, HunqRider, for hijacking your thread. Your experience got my own 
brain cogs working -- always a dangerous thing! Grin.

With abandon,
Patrick

On Tuesday, March 25, 2014 9:25:06 AM UTC-6, Shoji Takahashi wrote:

 Hi Patrick,
 I read through the thread, and I hope I understand what you're trying to 
 do:
 The riding I do is mostly in the 24...-- Is the 24T adequate? Is it too 
 high or too low for your 8-spd 11-32 cassette? Do you spend your time 
 mainly on the 11 or mainly on the 32 or in the middle (or maybe the terrain 
 rolls so much that you shift through the entire cassette?).

 Then you write but then there are sections of flat and down where 
 pedaling is needed at higher speeds.-- is this mainly in the 36T middle 
 ring? (You mentioned that the 46T doesn't get much use.) Does the 36T with 
 the 8-spd 11-32 offer a good range for your needs? On  those flats, do you 
 spend a lot of time on the 11 and could use a larger front ring? 

 If you got the standard Riv build, I'm guessing that you could switch from 
 8 to 9 without much pain. But, the IRD/Riv 8-spd is 12-34 and may just do 
 the trick for you (compared to the 9-sp 12-36). Would the 36 rear serve you 
 better than 34? Perhaps you could use a little more top end 11 vs 12 (8-spd 
 11-32 cassette)? 

 Since it sounds like you're interested in changing the chainrings, would 
 40/24 be better than 36/24 (essentially the current state)? Maybe you'd be 
 better served with something a little higher? 42/26? It would depend on 
 what gears you use most.

 Good luck!
 Shoji


 On Tuesday, March 25, 2014 9:28:26 AM UTC-4, Deacon Patrick wrote:

 I found expander sprocket for a 10-speed cassette: 
 http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/us/en/hope-t-rex-expander-sprocket/rp-prod119003which
  then gives an 11-40 range. Will a 10-speed cassette require different 
 shifters, derailure, etc?

 RIv. sells the 9-speed cassette (for $50) that is 12-36. Does moving to a 
 9 from an 8 require a change in drivetrain parts, or is it interchangeable 
 (I know I'd need a new chain). Anyone know of an expander sprocket for 
 9-speed?

 With abandon,
 Patrick



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[RBW] Re: FS: Gran Compe Road Brake Levers

2014-03-25 Thread Michael


 Says Dia Compe on the hood 
 rubber.https://www.flickr.com/photos/70237737@N00/sets/72157642910125523/

Gran Compe on the straps.

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[RBW] Re: Bosco Bullmoose Bars

2014-03-25 Thread Deacon Patrick
This morning I tried shifted the brakes to the middle and test rode them. 
Then I flipped the Albatross bars (everything drops about 4 that way, not 
sure I like that much drop). I'm going to ride it this way, possibly flip 
them back and ride that way for a while. Thanks to physics, there is a LOT 
less play when I'm in the drops and it is wonderful having the brakes in 
the drops. I'll see which side up I prefer the Albatross bars.

With abandon,
Patrick

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[RBW] Re: Single-Chainring Drivetrains

2014-03-25 Thread Bill Lindsay
I think that 12-36 with a 26/40/chainguard in front would be perfect for 
you, Deacon

On Tuesday, March 25, 2014 10:10:06 AM UTC-7, Deacon Patrick wrote:

 Thanks, Shoji. As I play with this more, It makes sense to me to take 
 things one step at a time. I am thinking:

 -- update cassette to 9-speed 12-36. This will allow me to ride most all 
 the time in my middle chainring with my current 24/36/46 front chain rings. 
 (You are right, I almost never use my 46). But that will be a huge 
 improvement over currently having to shift all the time from small to 
 middle front cogs on the steep rolling terrain. (my small rear cog needs 
 replacing anyway, and I just confirmed with Riv that going to 9 speed from 
 8 is easy.

 -- Based on what I learn riding that, I can explore other options.

 Sorry, HunqRider, for hijacking your thread. Your experience got my own 
 brain cogs working -- always a dangerous thing! Grin.

 With abandon,
 Patrick

 On Tuesday, March 25, 2014 9:25:06 AM UTC-6, Shoji Takahashi wrote:

 Hi Patrick,
 I read through the thread, and I hope I understand what you're trying to 
 do:
 The riding I do is mostly in the 24...-- Is the 24T adequate? Is it too 
 high or too low for your 8-spd 11-32 cassette? Do you spend your time 
 mainly on the 11 or mainly on the 32 or in the middle (or maybe the terrain 
 rolls so much that you shift through the entire cassette?).

 Then you write but then there are sections of flat and down where 
 pedaling is needed at higher speeds.-- is this mainly in the 36T middle 
 ring? (You mentioned that the 46T doesn't get much use.) Does the 36T with 
 the 8-spd 11-32 offer a good range for your needs? On  those flats, do you 
 spend a lot of time on the 11 and could use a larger front ring? 

 If you got the standard Riv build, I'm guessing that you could switch 
 from 8 to 9 without much pain. But, the IRD/Riv 8-spd is 12-34 and may just 
 do the trick for you (compared to the 9-sp 12-36). Would the 36 rear serve 
 you better than 34? Perhaps you could use a little more top end 11 vs 12 
 (8-spd 11-32 cassette)? 

 Since it sounds like you're interested in changing the chainrings, would 
 40/24 be better than 36/24 (essentially the current state)? Maybe you'd be 
 better served with something a little higher? 42/26? It would depend on 
 what gears you use most.

 Good luck!
 Shoji


 On Tuesday, March 25, 2014 9:28:26 AM UTC-4, Deacon Patrick wrote:

 I found expander sprocket for a 10-speed cassette: 
 http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/us/en/hope-t-rex-expander-sprocket/rp-prod119003which
  then gives an 11-40 range. Will a 10-speed cassette require different 
 shifters, derailure, etc?

 RIv. sells the 9-speed cassette (for $50) that is 12-36. Does moving to 
 a 9 from an 8 require a change in drivetrain parts, or is it 
 interchangeable (I know I'd need a new chain). Anyone know of an expander 
 sprocket for 9-speed?

 With abandon,
 Patrick



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[RBW] Re: Single-Chainring Drivetrains

2014-03-25 Thread Deacon Patrick
Possibly, Bill. I'm going to see how I like riding the 36 front/36 rear and 
staying mostly in the middle front cog. To just the middle cog to a 40 
means I lose that most often in the middle cog capability and I end up with 
the same issue I have now of often shifting between low and middle. I'm 
thinking the 2-36 cassette all was me to do what Steve suggested as an 
initial response to my question.

With abandon,
Patrick

On Tuesday, March 25, 2014 11:22:36 AM UTC-6, Bill Lindsay wrote:

 I think that 12-36 with a 26/40/chainguard in front would be perfect for 
 you, Deacon

 On Tuesday, March 25, 2014 10:10:06 AM UTC-7, Deacon Patrick wrote:

 Thanks, Shoji. As I play with this more, It makes sense to me to take 
 things one step at a time. I am thinking:

 -- update cassette to 9-speed 12-36. This will allow me to ride most all 
 the time in my middle chainring with my current 24/36/46 front chain rings. 
 (You are right, I almost never use my 46). But that will be a huge 
 improvement over currently having to shift all the time from small to 
 middle front cogs on the steep rolling terrain. (my small rear cog needs 
 replacing anyway, and I just confirmed with Riv that going to 9 speed from 
 8 is easy.

 -- Based on what I learn riding that, I can explore other options.

 Sorry, HunqRider, for hijacking your thread. Your experience got my own 
 brain cogs working -- always a dangerous thing! Grin.

 With abandon,
 Patrick

 On Tuesday, March 25, 2014 9:25:06 AM UTC-6, Shoji Takahashi wrote:

 Hi Patrick,
 I read through the thread, and I hope I understand what you're trying to 
 do:
 The riding I do is mostly in the 24...-- Is the 24T adequate? Is it 
 too high or too low for your 8-spd 11-32 cassette? Do you spend your time 
 mainly on the 11 or mainly on the 32 or in the middle (or maybe the terrain 
 rolls so much that you shift through the entire cassette?).

 Then you write but then there are sections of flat and down where 
 pedaling is needed at higher speeds.-- is this mainly in the 36T middle 
 ring? (You mentioned that the 46T doesn't get much use.) Does the 36T with 
 the 8-spd 11-32 offer a good range for your needs? On  those flats, do you 
 spend a lot of time on the 11 and could use a larger front ring? 

 If you got the standard Riv build, I'm guessing that you could switch 
 from 8 to 9 without much pain. But, the IRD/Riv 8-spd is 12-34 and may just 
 do the trick for you (compared to the 9-sp 12-36). Would the 36 rear serve 
 you better than 34? Perhaps you could use a little more top end 11 vs 12 
 (8-spd 11-32 cassette)? 

 Since it sounds like you're interested in changing the chainrings, would 
 40/24 be better than 36/24 (essentially the current state)? Maybe you'd be 
 better served with something a little higher? 42/26? It would depend on 
 what gears you use most.

 Good luck!
 Shoji


 On Tuesday, March 25, 2014 9:28:26 AM UTC-4, Deacon Patrick wrote:

 I found expander sprocket for a 10-speed cassette: 
 http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/us/en/hope-t-rex-expander-sprocket/rp-prod119003which
  then gives an 11-40 range. Will a 10-speed cassette require different 
 shifters, derailure, etc?

 RIv. sells the 9-speed cassette (for $50) that is 12-36. Does moving to 
 a 9 from an 8 require a change in drivetrain parts, or is it 
 interchangeable (I know I'd need a new chain). Anyone know of an expander 
 sprocket for 9-speed?

 With abandon,
 Patrick



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[RBW] FS: Riv Noodle Complete Cockpit

2014-03-25 Thread David Banzer
Going to split this one up as I think I would like to keep the stem. Have 
another stem to sell if interested, see below. 

Prices do not include shipping. 

Nitto Noodle Bars 48cm - $50
Nitto Technomic Standard 11cm - $40
Silver Barend Shifters with cables/housing and Shimano dt stops - $60
Suntour Cyclone 7000 Brake Levers - $40
Brass Bell - $8

Would prefer Paypal Personal payment, please. 

Also, would like to trade:
MY: 11cm Nitto Technomic Deluxe Stem, for
YOUR: 10cm Nitto Technomic Deluxe Stem

Contact off list if interested in anything, please. 
Thanks,
David
Chicago

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[RBW] Re: How do you post pictures to the list?

2014-03-25 Thread Joe Bernard
I spy gratuitous Alfa-Romeos! 
 
Joe Fiat 500C Abarth Bernard
Vallejo, CA. 

On Tuesday, March 25, 2014 6:00:38 AM UTC-7, Ron Mc wrote:

 I think many people use the Attach a file option, but I'm with Bill - I 
 like to use the Insert Image widget and URL from my photobucket

 http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v728/bulldog1935/decoy/zagato.jpg


 On Tuesday, March 25, 2014 7:43:45 AM UTC-5, Conway Bennett wrote:

 Thanks for the feedback.  Posted.



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[RBW] Re: FS: Park Torque, Nitto, Pletscher, Brooks, Power Grips, bell, seatpost

2014-03-25 Thread Michael


 Brooks B17 Special is sold. Thanks.


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[RBW] Re: Single-Chainring Drivetrains

2014-03-25 Thread RoadieRyan
Converted my Handsome Devil from a Sugino XD triple to a compact double to 
finally a single chain ring 1x9 set up 36t chain ring and 12-36t 9 speed 
cassette.  The gear inch range from 27.2 to 81.5 works well for hilly West 
Seattle and I have had so few issues with chain drops that the Paul chain 
keeper I bought for this set-up has never been mounted.  It probably helps 
that I am not pushing this bike to the limit, I am seldom out of the 
saddle, or doing rapid shifts, on the other hand I am not babying it 
either.   Love the simplicity of the 1x9 set up and don't see ever using a 
triple again, the closest I will get would be a 40x26t set up that Riv 
sells.

my .02 cents

On Monday, February 24, 2014 3:38:55 PM UTC-8, HunqRider wrote:

 Wondering if anyone is thinking about converting their Rivendell over to a 
 simple 1x drivetrain configuration (single chainring).  I did this last 
 year, and it has made riding a whole lot simpler and fun.  

  

 I will detail my experiences, which hopefully will be useful to others 
 thinking about making the change.

  

 My original drivetrain configuration was:

 Hunqapillar (54 cm frame)

 113mm Bottom bracket

 Sugino XD2 crankset (double)

 34 and 48 tooth chainrings

 8-speed cassette (12-32 tooth)

  

 To make the change over to the 1x drivetrain, I figured I would just take 
 off the outer chainring and replace with 5 washers of similar thickness.  
 There was a problem though; the “nut” part of the chainring bolts were too 
 long, so had to get some shorter ones.  My LBS sold ones that were designed 
 for single speed cranks from a company named “Problem Solvers”; these ended 
 up working fine, though I ended up having to use the old longer crankset 
 “bolts” with my new shorter “nuts”.  

  

 I took off the front derailer, and went out on a few rides.  Everything 
 was fine, except that when doing fast shifts over to the small cassette 
 cogs, the chain would sometimes fall off the chainring to the outside.  So 
 I installed a Paul Components Chain Keeper.  This device mounts onto the 
 seat tube where the front derailler would normally be, and it covers both 
 the inside and outside of the chain. This worked only ‘OK’ for me.  I 
 believe that it is designed for 9- or 10-speed chain thicknesses, so my 
 8-speed chain was a tight fit.  I had to play with it a lot to get it in 
 the perfect position, and even then, it would slightly rub on the chain, 
 especially when riding hard “out of the saddle” which would create 
 chainring flex.  So I had to find a new solution.

  

 My new solution was to cover both sides of the chain independently.  For 
 the inside, I used an N-Gear Jump Stop.  I haven’t ever had any issues with 
 the chain falling off to the inside, but the Jump Stop gives me piece of 
 mind.  For the outside, I installed a bashguard.  I don’t think that just 
 any bashguard will do, it needs to be as thin and small as possible.  
 Here’s why:  I never changed my bottom bracket, so the chainring is not 
 perfectly centered on the cassette cogs.  Ideally, I probably should have 
 installed a slightly longer bottom bracket to get better chainline, but in 
 my setup, when “cross-chained” from the 34t chainring to the small 12t cog, 
 the chain has a bit of an angle, and a big bashguard would rub.  So I put 
 on a ‘SuperLight’ Bashguard from BBG bashguards, size 36 (just slightly 
 bigger than the chainring).  This bashguard is half the thickness of a 
 chainring.  I then used washers inside the bashguard, to get it just a bit 
 further away from the chain.  This has worked great; no rubbing, and no 
 drops of the chain under any conditions so far.

  

 Can you just leave the front derailler in place, instead of messing round 
 with these chain protectors?  Probably, but then you would have still have 
 to be ‘trimming’ the derailler using your left hand to prevent rubbing.  In 
 my setup, the left hand does nothing except braking now.

  

 One other thing I did was take a few links out of the chain, since it 
 never leaves the 34t chainring (it used to have to be long enough to 
 accommodate the 48t chainring).

  

 The experience has been fun, I don’t see myself returning to a 
 multi-chainring setup anytime soon. In my smallest gearing (34t chainring  
 32t cog), it is doable to climb most hills, and in my top gearing (12t 
 cog), it is fast enough for all the flats and moderate descents.  On steep 
 descents, I do find that it will “spin out”, but that usually just tells me 
 that I’m going fast enough for my own safety, no need to go faster by 
 pedaling.

  

 I hope that this is helpful to anyone thinking about making the switch to 
 1x this year.


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[RBW] Re: FS: Men's Den Haag Cycling Jersey (Jersey masquerading as a Polo shirt)

2014-03-25 Thread RJM
What size?
On Tuesday, March 25, 2014 9:16:07 AM UTC-5, skip0327 wrote: 

  While at NAHBS a few weeks ago, I bought a cycling jersey on an impulse. 
 The jersey really isn’t my particular style so I’m offering to sell at the 
 price I paid at the show -- $85.00; current online price is $120.00. This 
 jersey is referred to as the Den Haag, size large  the color is Rochester 
 Lilac. The jersey is sealed in the original package. Please check the link 
 for the specifics.  Price includes shipping  PayPal fees to anywhere in 
 the CONUS.

 Thanks, Skip

 http://roadholland.com/collections/mens/products/den-haag

 Note: Posted on I-Bob  Paceline too, need to sell this jersey.



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[RBW] Bike Stretch and the most all aroundish of all arounders?

2014-03-25 Thread Richard Rios
Hi Everyone,

I was thinking about adding adding a second Riv to compliment the Cheviot / 
Hillborne I will be building up soon.  I was /  am trying to avoid a bike 
that is to close in function.  So when I started thinking on it... this is 
what I came up with (see below) :).  It kinda takes some liberty by adding 
the Bomba / not being a production bike per say, and the San Marcos / being 
a Soma.  But you could remove them and have roughly the same thing. After 
doing this I kinda came to the conclusion that for every one Riv bike you 
end up with 3.  So a Sam can be just a Sam / Road Touring bike or Stretched 
(+1) into Atlantis Territory full blown touring, or stretched (-1) into 
Homer's  country bike territory.  So potentially you could buy two of the 
exact same model and stretch them to opposite ends and not end up with 
the same bike at all. What do you think? 





off road 
expidition off road mountain  touring   road 
touring country bikesport touringFrisky road

 
BombaHunquaAtlantisSam HHomerSan 
Marcos---Roadeo


  
 --

 
+1Bike Stretch  -1


for each given model

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[RBW] Re: Bike Stretch and the most all aroundish of all arounders?

2014-03-25 Thread Edwin W


 There was a great deal on a drop bar 60cm Sam a few weeks ago that I 
 really considered. I have a 60cm alba Sam that does everything I do on a 
 bike, but I thought it would fun to have a drop bar version as well. I 
 would build them up only slightly differently. One for town (albas), the 
 other for country road cruising. 

Town and Country,

Edwin 

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[RBW] Re: How do you post pictures to the list?

2014-03-25 Thread Ron Mc
'57 Zagato, my favorite Alfa

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v728/bulldog1935/decoy/1900_gts_zagato.jpg


On Tuesday, March 25, 2014 1:53:36 PM UTC-5, Joe Bernard wrote:

 I spy gratuitous Alfa-Romeos! 
  
 Joe Fiat 500C Abarth Bernard
 Vallejo, CA. 

 On Tuesday, March 25, 2014 6:00:38 AM UTC-7, Ron Mc wrote:

 I think many people use the Attach a file option, but I'm with Bill - I 
 like to use the Insert Image widget and URL from my photobucket

 http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v728/bulldog1935/decoy/zagato.jpg


 On Tuesday, March 25, 2014 7:43:45 AM UTC-5, Conway Bennett wrote:

 Thanks for the feedback.  Posted.



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[RBW] Re: Single-Chainring Drivetrains

2014-03-25 Thread Montclair BobbyB
Sorry, but I'm just not getting (or buying into) this 1x fad... AND I 
believe chain line is really important and cross-chaining IS bad, despite 
what some claim about their ridiculous 1x11 setups.  Someone please 
convince me otherwise.  WHAT is so awful about a front derailleur and a 
triple chain ring??? It provides all the gear range one could ever want, 
and enables maintaining a straighter chain line (no extreme 
cross-chaining!!)... The very thought of using the full range of rear cogs 
on a single front chain ring makes me cringe.  Now, perhaps a 1x3 (using 
only 3 centered cogs in the rear) makes more sense (but then you'd have 
only a 3 speed).  I like my 21 speeds, thank you.

I can almost understand if you're a racer, and front mis-shifts have cost 
you valuable time; then I suppose losing the front shifter may be worth the 
tradeoff.  Otherwise, I ain't gettin it...  That said, please feel free to 
send me your unwanted front derailleurs... 

Peace,

Bobby (feelin grinchy) Birmingham

On Monday, February 24, 2014 6:38:55 PM UTC-5, HunqRider wrote:

 Wondering if anyone is thinking about converting their Rivendell over to a 
 simple 1x drivetrain configuration (single chainring).  I did this last 
 year, and it has made riding a whole lot simpler and fun.  

  

 I will detail my experiences, which hopefully will be useful to others 
 thinking about making the change.

  

 My original drivetrain configuration was:

 Hunqapillar (54 cm frame)

 113mm Bottom bracket

 Sugino XD2 crankset (double)

 34 and 48 tooth chainrings

 8-speed cassette (12-32 tooth)

  

 To make the change over to the 1x drivetrain, I figured I would just take 
 off the outer chainring and replace with 5 washers of similar thickness.  
 There was a problem though; the “nut” part of the chainring bolts were too 
 long, so had to get some shorter ones.  My LBS sold ones that were designed 
 for single speed cranks from a company named “Problem Solvers”; these ended 
 up working fine, though I ended up having to use the old longer crankset 
 “bolts” with my new shorter “nuts”.  

  

 I took off the front derailer, and went out on a few rides.  Everything 
 was fine, except that when doing fast shifts over to the small cassette 
 cogs, the chain would sometimes fall off the chainring to the outside.  So 
 I installed a Paul Components Chain Keeper.  This device mounts onto the 
 seat tube where the front derailler would normally be, and it covers both 
 the inside and outside of the chain. This worked only ‘OK’ for me.  I 
 believe that it is designed for 9- or 10-speed chain thicknesses, so my 
 8-speed chain was a tight fit.  I had to play with it a lot to get it in 
 the perfect position, and even then, it would slightly rub on the chain, 
 especially when riding hard “out of the saddle” which would create 
 chainring flex.  So I had to find a new solution.

  

 My new solution was to cover both sides of the chain independently.  For 
 the inside, I used an N-Gear Jump Stop.  I haven’t ever had any issues with 
 the chain falling off to the inside, but the Jump Stop gives me piece of 
 mind.  For the outside, I installed a bashguard.  I don’t think that just 
 any bashguard will do, it needs to be as thin and small as possible.  
 Here’s why:  I never changed my bottom bracket, so the chainring is not 
 perfectly centered on the cassette cogs.  Ideally, I probably should have 
 installed a slightly longer bottom bracket to get better chainline, but in 
 my setup, when “cross-chained” from the 34t chainring to the small 12t cog, 
 the chain has a bit of an angle, and a big bashguard would rub.  So I put 
 on a ‘SuperLight’ Bashguard from BBG bashguards, size 36 (just slightly 
 bigger than the chainring).  This bashguard is half the thickness of a 
 chainring.  I then used washers inside the bashguard, to get it just a bit 
 further away from the chain.  This has worked great; no rubbing, and no 
 drops of the chain under any conditions so far.

  

 Can you just leave the front derailler in place, instead of messing round 
 with these chain protectors?  Probably, but then you would have still have 
 to be ‘trimming’ the derailler using your left hand to prevent rubbing.  In 
 my setup, the left hand does nothing except braking now.

  

 One other thing I did was take a few links out of the chain, since it 
 never leaves the 34t chainring (it used to have to be long enough to 
 accommodate the 48t chainring).

  

 The experience has been fun, I don’t see myself returning to a 
 multi-chainring setup anytime soon. In my smallest gearing (34t chainring  
 32t cog), it is doable to climb most hills, and in my top gearing (12t 
 cog), it is fast enough for all the flats and moderate descents.  On steep 
 descents, I do find that it will “spin out”, but that usually just tells me 
 that I’m going fast enough for my own safety, no need to go faster by 
 pedaling.

  

 I hope that this is helpful to anyone thinking about 

Re: [RBW] Re: Single-Chainring Drivetrains

2014-03-25 Thread Jim Bronson
I put the 12-36 on the tandem and we ride it 95% in the 40 middle ring.

Since you're riding offroad, I would think the 36-36 combo would be plenty
low for most situations.  If you have a gnarly grade to climb, then flog
your granny ;)

I did have to change the derailer to work with the 36 btw.  I had some sort
of Suntour long cage previously.  I first tried a M-592 Shadow type Deore
but that didn't work on the derailer hanger the tandem has.  It did work
with the M-591 non-shadow derailer and it shifts good with the Microshift
brifters I have on the tandem.


On Tue, Mar 25, 2014 at 12:41 PM, Deacon Patrick lamontg...@mac.com wrote:

 Possibly, Bill. I'm going to see how I like riding the 36 front/36 rear
 and staying mostly in the middle front cog. To just the middle cog to a 40
 means I lose that most often in the middle cog capability and I end up with
 the same issue I have now of often shifting between low and middle. I'm
 thinking the 2-36 cassette all was me to do what Steve suggested as an
 initial response to my question.

 With abandon,
 Patrick


 On Tuesday, March 25, 2014 11:22:36 AM UTC-6, Bill Lindsay wrote:

 I think that 12-36 with a 26/40/chainguard in front would be perfect for
 you, Deacon

 On Tuesday, March 25, 2014 10:10:06 AM UTC-7, Deacon Patrick wrote:

 Thanks, Shoji. As I play with this more, It makes sense to me to take
 things one step at a time. I am thinking:

 -- update cassette to 9-speed 12-36. This will allow me to ride most all
 the time in my middle chainring with my current 24/36/46 front chain rings.
 (You are right, I almost never use my 46). But that will be a huge
 improvement over currently having to shift all the time from small to
 middle front cogs on the steep rolling terrain. (my small rear cog needs
 replacing anyway, and I just confirmed with Riv that going to 9 speed from
 8 is easy.

 -- Based on what I learn riding that, I can explore other options.

 Sorry, HunqRider, for hijacking your thread. Your experience got my own
 brain cogs working -- always a dangerous thing! Grin.

 With abandon,
 Patrick

 On Tuesday, March 25, 2014 9:25:06 AM UTC-6, Shoji Takahashi wrote:

 Hi Patrick,
 I read through the thread, and I hope I understand what you're trying
 to do:
 The riding I do is mostly in the 24...-- Is the 24T adequate? Is it
 too high or too low for your 8-spd 11-32 cassette? Do you spend your time
 mainly on the 11 or mainly on the 32 or in the middle (or maybe the terrain
 rolls so much that you shift through the entire cassette?).

 Then you write but then there are sections of flat and down where
 pedaling is needed at higher speeds.-- is this mainly in the 36T middle
 ring? (You mentioned that the 46T doesn't get much use.) Does the 36T with
 the 8-spd 11-32 offer a good range for your needs? On  those flats, do you
 spend a lot of time on the 11 and could use a larger front ring?

 If you got the standard Riv build, I'm guessing that you could switch
 from 8 to 9 without much pain. But, the IRD/Riv 8-spd is 12-34 and may just
 do the trick for you (compared to the 9-sp 12-36). Would the 36 rear serve
 you better than 34? Perhaps you could use a little more top end 11 vs 12
 (8-spd 11-32 cassette)?

 Since it sounds like you're interested in changing the chainrings,
 would 40/24 be better than 36/24 (essentially the current state)? Maybe
 you'd be better served with something a little higher? 42/26? It would
 depend on what gears you use most.

 Good luck!
 Shoji


 On Tuesday, March 25, 2014 9:28:26 AM UTC-4, Deacon Patrick wrote:

 I found expander sprocket for a 10-speed cassette: http://www.
 chainreactioncycles.com/us/en/hope-t-rex-expander-sprocket/
 rp-prod119003 which then gives an 11-40 range. Will a 10-speed
 cassette require different shifters, derailure, etc?

 RIv. sells the 9-speed cassette (for $50) that is 12-36. Does moving
 to a 9 from an 8 require a change in drivetrain parts, or is it
 interchangeable (I know I'd need a new chain). Anyone know of an expander
 sprocket for 9-speed?

 With abandon,
 Patrick

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-- 
Keep the metal side up and the rubber side down!

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[RBW] Re: Single-Chainring Drivetrains

2014-03-25 Thread Will
Deacon, 

Map out your most travelled route or routes with Google Pedometer/Earth (or 
similar).  

Extract an elevation profile. 

Discuss those results with the folks at Riv. Or post links here... for 
discussion.  

Seems to me that establishing your vertical terrain challenges is the place 
to start. 

Then you work out gears...  

I do not think a 1x10 setup is particularly useful. I can see a 1x5 (used 
to ride a Raleigh Tourist), but you're going to stress the rear der, the 
chain, and the rings, with a 1x10. 

On Tuesday, March 25, 2014 12:41:21 PM UTC-5, Deacon Patrick wrote:

 Possibly, Bill. I'm going to see how I like riding the 36 front/36 rear 
 and staying mostly in the middle front cog. To just the middle cog to a 40 
 means I lose that most often in the middle cog capability and I end up with 
 the same issue I have now of often shifting between low and middle. I'm 
 thinking the 2-36 cassette all was me to do what Steve suggested as an 
 initial response to my question.

 With abandon,
 Patrick

 On Tuesday, March 25, 2014 11:22:36 AM UTC-6, Bill Lindsay wrote:

 I think that 12-36 with a 26/40/chainguard in front would be perfect for 
 you, Deacon

 On Tuesday, March 25, 2014 10:10:06 AM UTC-7, Deacon Patrick wrote:

 Thanks, Shoji. As I play with this more, It makes sense to me to take 
 things one step at a time. I am thinking:

 -- update cassette to 9-speed 12-36. This will allow me to ride most all 
 the time in my middle chainring with my current 24/36/46 front chain rings. 
 (You are right, I almost never use my 46). But that will be a huge 
 improvement over currently having to shift all the time from small to 
 middle front cogs on the steep rolling terrain. (my small rear cog needs 
 replacing anyway, and I just confirmed with Riv that going to 9 speed from 
 8 is easy.

 -- Based on what I learn riding that, I can explore other options.

 Sorry, HunqRider, for hijacking your thread. Your experience got my own 
 brain cogs working -- always a dangerous thing! Grin.

 With abandon,
 Patrick

 On Tuesday, March 25, 2014 9:25:06 AM UTC-6, Shoji Takahashi wrote:

 Hi Patrick,
 I read through the thread, and I hope I understand what you're trying 
 to do:
 The riding I do is mostly in the 24...-- Is the 24T adequate? Is it 
 too high or too low for your 8-spd 11-32 cassette? Do you spend your time 
 mainly on the 11 or mainly on the 32 or in the middle (or maybe the 
 terrain 
 rolls so much that you shift through the entire cassette?).

 Then you write but then there are sections of flat and down where 
 pedaling is needed at higher speeds.-- is this mainly in the 36T middle 
 ring? (You mentioned that the 46T doesn't get much use.) Does the 36T with 
 the 8-spd 11-32 offer a good range for your needs? On  those flats, do you 
 spend a lot of time on the 11 and could use a larger front ring? 

 If you got the standard Riv build, I'm guessing that you could switch 
 from 8 to 9 without much pain. But, the IRD/Riv 8-spd is 12-34 and may 
 just 
 do the trick for you (compared to the 9-sp 12-36). Would the 36 rear serve 
 you better than 34? Perhaps you could use a little more top end 11 vs 12 
 (8-spd 11-32 cassette)? 

 Since it sounds like you're interested in changing the chainrings, 
 would 40/24 be better than 36/24 (essentially the current state)? Maybe 
 you'd be better served with something a little higher? 42/26? It would 
 depend on what gears you use most.

 Good luck!
 Shoji


 On Tuesday, March 25, 2014 9:28:26 AM UTC-4, Deacon Patrick wrote:

 I found expander sprocket for a 10-speed cassette: 
 http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/us/en/hope-t-rex-expander-sprocket/rp-prod119003which
  then gives an 11-40 range. Will a 10-speed cassette require different 
 shifters, derailure, etc?

 RIv. sells the 9-speed cassette (for $50) that is 12-36. Does moving 
 to a 9 from an 8 require a change in drivetrain parts, or is it 
 interchangeable (I know I'd need a new chain). Anyone know of an expander 
 sprocket for 9-speed?

 With abandon,
 Patrick



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[RBW] Re: Single-Chainring Drivetrains

2014-03-25 Thread George Schick
Bobby - I agree with you for the most part.  The only reasons I converted 
one of my road bikes to a 1xSS are 1) the rails/trails MUPs around the area 
here are surfaced with compacted limestone tailings or screenings (the 
final remnant left over from when crushed limestone rock is sifted 
through various size screens [so the rocks can be sold in different sizes 
for driveways, riprap, etc]) and although it makes an OK surface to ride 
over for the most part, when the weather has been very dry for a while in 
mid-Summer it becomes extremely dusty making derailler drive trains a 
maintenance headache.  The single chainring/single cog of the 1xSS's make 
cleaning much easier and quicker.  And 2) the area around here is fairly 
flat so a rider can get by with one speed without a problem.  Other than 
those things, I see SS as mostly just a fad - maybe even a passing fad.

On Tuesday, March 25, 2014 3:08:55 PM UTC-5, Montclair BobbyB wrote:

 Sorry, but I'm just not getting (or buying into) this 1x fad... AND I 
 believe chain line is really important and cross-chaining IS bad, despite 
 what some claim about their ridiculous 1x11 setups.  Someone please 
 convince me otherwise.  WHAT is so awful about a front derailleur and a 
 triple chain ring??? It provides all the gear range one could ever want, 
 and enables maintaining a straighter chain line (no extreme 
 cross-chaining!!)... The very thought of using the full range of rear cogs 
 on a single front chain ring makes me cringe.  Now, perhaps a 1x3 (using 
 only 3 centered cogs in the rear) makes more sense (but then you'd have 
 only a 3 speed).  I like my 21 speeds, thank you.

 I can almost understand if you're a racer, and front mis-shifts have cost 
 you valuable time; then I suppose losing the front shifter may be worth the 
 tradeoff.  Otherwise, I ain't gettin it...  That said, please feel free to 
 send me your unwanted front derailleurs... 

 Peace,

 Bobby (feelin grinchy) Birmingham

 On Monday, February 24, 2014 6:38:55 PM UTC-5, HunqRider wrote:

 Wondering if anyone is thinking about converting their Rivendell over to 
 a simple 1x drivetrain configuration (single chainring).  I did this last 
 year, and it has made riding a whole lot simpler and fun.  

  

 I will detail my experiences, which hopefully will be useful to others 
 thinking about making the change.

  

 My original drivetrain configuration was:

 Hunqapillar (54 cm frame)

 113mm Bottom bracket

 Sugino XD2 crankset (double)

 34 and 48 tooth chainrings

 8-speed cassette (12-32 tooth)

  

 To make the change over to the 1x drivetrain, I figured I would just take 
 off the outer chainring and replace with 5 washers of similar thickness.  
 There was a problem though; the “nut” part of the chainring bolts were too 
 long, so had to get some shorter ones.  My LBS sold ones that were designed 
 for single speed cranks from a company named “Problem Solvers”; these ended 
 up working fine, though I ended up having to use the old longer crankset 
 “bolts” with my new shorter “nuts”.  

  

 I took off the front derailer, and went out on a few rides.  Everything 
 was fine, except that when doing fast shifts over to the small cassette 
 cogs, the chain would sometimes fall off the chainring to the outside.  So 
 I installed a Paul Components Chain Keeper.  This device mounts onto the 
 seat tube where the front derailler would normally be, and it covers both 
 the inside and outside of the chain. This worked only ‘OK’ for me.  I 
 believe that it is designed for 9- or 10-speed chain thicknesses, so my 
 8-speed chain was a tight fit.  I had to play with it a lot to get it in 
 the perfect position, and even then, it would slightly rub on the chain, 
 especially when riding hard “out of the saddle” which would create 
 chainring flex.  So I had to find a new solution.

  

 My new solution was to cover both sides of the chain independently.  For 
 the inside, I used an N-Gear Jump Stop.  I haven’t ever had any issues with 
 the chain falling off to the inside, but the Jump Stop gives me piece of 
 mind.  For the outside, I installed a bashguard.  I don’t think that just 
 any bashguard will do, it needs to be as thin and small as possible.  
 Here’s why:  I never changed my bottom bracket, so the chainring is not 
 perfectly centered on the cassette cogs.  Ideally, I probably should have 
 installed a slightly longer bottom bracket to get better chainline, but in 
 my setup, when “cross-chained” from the 34t chainring to the small 12t cog, 
 the chain has a bit of an angle, and a big bashguard would rub.  So I put 
 on a ‘SuperLight’ Bashguard from BBG bashguards, size 36 (just slightly 
 bigger than the chainring).  This bashguard is half the thickness of a 
 chainring.  I then used washers inside the bashguard, to get it just a bit 
 further away from the chain.  This has worked great; no rubbing, and no 
 drops of the chain under any conditions so far.

  

 Can you just 

[RBW] Re: Single-Chainring Drivetrains

2014-03-25 Thread Montclair BobbyB
George:

Perhaps you might consider an internal-geared hub?   I am building up a 1x5 
Spectro on an old mid-80s Rockhopper... simplicity, decent range, and 
low-maintenance.

BB  

On Tuesday, March 25, 2014 4:41:20 PM UTC-4, George Schick wrote:

 Bobby - I agree with you for the most part.  The only reasons I converted 
 one of my road bikes to a 1xSS are 1) the rails/trails MUPs around the area 
 here are surfaced with compacted limestone tailings or screenings (the 
 final remnant left over from when crushed limestone rock is sifted 
 through various size screens [so the rocks can be sold in different sizes 
 for driveways, riprap, etc]) and although it makes an OK surface to ride 
 over for the most part, when the weather has been very dry for a while in 
 mid-Summer it becomes extremely dusty making derailler drive trains a 
 maintenance headache.  The single chainring/single cog of the 1xSS's make 
 cleaning much easier and quicker.  And 2) the area around here is fairly 
 flat so a rider can get by with one speed without a problem.  Other than 
 those things, I see SS as mostly just a fad - maybe even a passing fad.

 On Tuesday, March 25, 2014 3:08:55 PM UTC-5, Montclair BobbyB wrote:

 Sorry, but I'm just not getting (or buying into) this 1x fad... AND I 
 believe chain line is really important and cross-chaining IS bad, despite 
 what some claim about their ridiculous 1x11 setups.  Someone please 
 convince me otherwise.  WHAT is so awful about a front derailleur and a 
 triple chain ring??? It provides all the gear range one could ever want, 
 and enables maintaining a straighter chain line (no extreme 
 cross-chaining!!)... The very thought of using the full range of rear cogs 
 on a single front chain ring makes me cringe.  Now, perhaps a 1x3 (using 
 only 3 centered cogs in the rear) makes more sense (but then you'd have 
 only a 3 speed).  I like my 21 speeds, thank you.

 I can almost understand if you're a racer, and front mis-shifts have cost 
 you valuable time; then I suppose losing the front shifter may be worth the 
 tradeoff.  Otherwise, I ain't gettin it...  That said, please feel free to 
 send me your unwanted front derailleurs... 

 Peace,

 Bobby (feelin grinchy) Birmingham

 On Monday, February 24, 2014 6:38:55 PM UTC-5, HunqRider wrote:

 Wondering if anyone is thinking about converting their Rivendell over to 
 a simple 1x drivetrain configuration (single chainring).  I did this last 
 year, and it has made riding a whole lot simpler and fun.  

  

 I will detail my experiences, which hopefully will be useful to others 
 thinking about making the change.

  

 My original drivetrain configuration was:

 Hunqapillar (54 cm frame)

 113mm Bottom bracket

 Sugino XD2 crankset (double)

 34 and 48 tooth chainrings

 8-speed cassette (12-32 tooth)

  

 To make the change over to the 1x drivetrain, I figured I would just 
 take off the outer chainring and replace with 5 washers of similar 
 thickness.  There was a problem though; the “nut” part of the chainring 
 bolts were too long, so had to get some shorter ones.  My LBS sold ones 
 that were designed for single speed cranks from a company named “Problem 
 Solvers”; these ended up working fine, though I ended up having to use the 
 old longer crankset “bolts” with my new shorter “nuts”.  

  

 I took off the front derailer, and went out on a few rides.  Everything 
 was fine, except that when doing fast shifts over to the small cassette 
 cogs, the chain would sometimes fall off the chainring to the outside.  So 
 I installed a Paul Components Chain Keeper.  This device mounts onto the 
 seat tube where the front derailler would normally be, and it covers both 
 the inside and outside of the chain. This worked only ‘OK’ for me.  I 
 believe that it is designed for 9- or 10-speed chain thicknesses, so my 
 8-speed chain was a tight fit.  I had to play with it a lot to get it in 
 the perfect position, and even then, it would slightly rub on the chain, 
 especially when riding hard “out of the saddle” which would create 
 chainring flex.  So I had to find a new solution.

  

 My new solution was to cover both sides of the chain independently.  For 
 the inside, I used an N-Gear Jump Stop.  I haven’t ever had any issues with 
 the chain falling off to the inside, but the Jump Stop gives me piece of 
 mind.  For the outside, I installed a bashguard.  I don’t think that just 
 any bashguard will do, it needs to be as thin and small as possible.  
 Here’s why:  I never changed my bottom bracket, so the chainring is not 
 perfectly centered on the cassette cogs.  Ideally, I probably should have 
 installed a slightly longer bottom bracket to get better chainline, but in 
 my setup, when “cross-chained” from the 34t chainring to the small 12t cog, 
 the chain has a bit of an angle, and a big bashguard would rub.  So I put 
 on a ‘SuperLight’ Bashguard from BBG bashguards, size 36 (just slightly 
 bigger than the chainring).  This 

[RBW] Re: Bike Stretch and the most all aroundish of all arounders?

2014-03-25 Thread Tony DeFilippo
I like it... good way to organize thoughts and I agree with the order.  The 
thing with nearly all of the Riv designs is the flexibility, I'd expand on 
the theme by saying that pretty much each of those models can be pressed 
into service up to +/- 2 on your Bike Stretch.  Particularly the 
Atlantis/Sam/Homer... I'd call all three of those the 'least constrained' 
bikes in the lineup.

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[RBW] Re: Single-Chainring Drivetrains

2014-03-25 Thread Edwin W
I ride my Sam everywhere I go, which is mostly to and from work and around 
town, about 2000 miles a year. When I was building it up I got the 
26/40/bashguard Sugino crank from Riv and an 11-28 (32?) 8 speed cassette. 
I delayed putting a front derailer on it until I saw my usage patterns. 
After a year I can see: I am in gears 5-7 95% of the time. I go up to 8 
occasionally and grind in 1 or 2 occasionally on my rare long rides.
I have stick shifted into the granny front once on an insanely steep and 
long (for around here) hill last summer.
I had not thought about the stress on chain or rear derailer of the 40-28 
combo, but I use it so rarely enough that I am not stressed. 

So far, the no front derailer, have a granny if I need it, basically 1x8 
system is working.

Edwin in hilly, but not mountainous Nashville, where I mostly ride around 
town and near-in country.

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[RBW] WTB: Viva Olive Green Cloth Tape

2014-03-25 Thread David Banzer
Anyone have a couple extra rolls of the Viva Olive Green Cloth handlebar 
tape?
Rivendell used to sell it until Newbaum's became they're go to cloth tape.
Or can anyone point me to where I can order some still? Jitensha carries 
it, but looks like they're out of this color.
Specifically looking for this type as it's a very nice match to my Redwood 
when clear shellacked.

I bought a couple rolls of Newbaum's lime green but it is a slightly 
different shade. If anyone wants these, how's about $8 shipped?

If I can't find the Viva tape, think I'll do gray Newbaum's to go for a 
similar look to this: http://www.jitensha.com/eng/brooks_toei.html

Thanks,
David
Chicago

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[RBW] Re: Single-Chainring Drivetrains

2014-03-25 Thread David Banzer
I think it depends on the terrain one is riding. Here in Chicago, I know I 
will never need more than a single chainring and that using the larger cogs 
or smallest cog in the rear will be at a minimum. I understand concerns 
about cross-chaining, but I know that 99% of my riding will be within the 
middle 4 rear cogs. For me, a 1x8 setup works and it simplifies the 
drivetrain.
David
Flatter than flat Chicago

On Tuesday, March 25, 2014 3:08:55 PM UTC-5, Montclair BobbyB wrote:

 Sorry, but I'm just not getting (or buying into) this 1x fad... AND I 
 believe chain line is really important and cross-chaining IS bad, despite 
 what some claim about their ridiculous 1x11 setups.  Someone please 
 convince me otherwise.  WHAT is so awful about a front derailleur and a 
 triple chain ring??? It provides all the gear range one could ever want, 
 and enables maintaining a straighter chain line (no extreme 
 cross-chaining!!)... The very thought of using the full range of rear cogs 
 on a single front chain ring makes me cringe.  Now, perhaps a 1x3 (using 
 only 3 centered cogs in the rear) makes more sense (but then you'd have 
 only a 3 speed).  I like my 21 speeds, thank you.

 I can almost understand if you're a racer, and front mis-shifts have cost 
 you valuable time; then I suppose losing the front shifter may be worth the 
 tradeoff.  Otherwise, I ain't gettin it...  That said, please feel free to 
 send me your unwanted front derailleurs... 

 Peace,

 Bobby (feelin grinchy) Birmingham

 On Monday, February 24, 2014 6:38:55 PM UTC-5, HunqRider wrote:

 Wondering if anyone is thinking about converting their Rivendell over to 
 a simple 1x drivetrain configuration (single chainring).  I did this last 
 year, and it has made riding a whole lot simpler and fun.  

  

 I will detail my experiences, which hopefully will be useful to others 
 thinking about making the change.

  

 My original drivetrain configuration was:

 Hunqapillar (54 cm frame)

 113mm Bottom bracket

 Sugino XD2 crankset (double)

 34 and 48 tooth chainrings

 8-speed cassette (12-32 tooth)

  

 To make the change over to the 1x drivetrain, I figured I would just take 
 off the outer chainring and replace with 5 washers of similar thickness.  
 There was a problem though; the “nut” part of the chainring bolts were too 
 long, so had to get some shorter ones.  My LBS sold ones that were designed 
 for single speed cranks from a company named “Problem Solvers”; these ended 
 up working fine, though I ended up having to use the old longer crankset 
 “bolts” with my new shorter “nuts”.  

  

 I took off the front derailer, and went out on a few rides.  Everything 
 was fine, except that when doing fast shifts over to the small cassette 
 cogs, the chain would sometimes fall off the chainring to the outside.  So 
 I installed a Paul Components Chain Keeper.  This device mounts onto the 
 seat tube where the front derailler would normally be, and it covers both 
 the inside and outside of the chain. This worked only ‘OK’ for me.  I 
 believe that it is designed for 9- or 10-speed chain thicknesses, so my 
 8-speed chain was a tight fit.  I had to play with it a lot to get it in 
 the perfect position, and even then, it would slightly rub on the chain, 
 especially when riding hard “out of the saddle” which would create 
 chainring flex.  So I had to find a new solution.

  

 My new solution was to cover both sides of the chain independently.  For 
 the inside, I used an N-Gear Jump Stop.  I haven’t ever had any issues with 
 the chain falling off to the inside, but the Jump Stop gives me piece of 
 mind.  For the outside, I installed a bashguard.  I don’t think that just 
 any bashguard will do, it needs to be as thin and small as possible.  
 Here’s why:  I never changed my bottom bracket, so the chainring is not 
 perfectly centered on the cassette cogs.  Ideally, I probably should have 
 installed a slightly longer bottom bracket to get better chainline, but in 
 my setup, when “cross-chained” from the 34t chainring to the small 12t cog, 
 the chain has a bit of an angle, and a big bashguard would rub.  So I put 
 on a ‘SuperLight’ Bashguard from BBG bashguards, size 36 (just slightly 
 bigger than the chainring).  This bashguard is half the thickness of a 
 chainring.  I then used washers inside the bashguard, to get it just a bit 
 further away from the chain.  This has worked great; no rubbing, and no 
 drops of the chain under any conditions so far.

  

 Can you just leave the front derailler in place, instead of messing round 
 with these chain protectors?  Probably, but then you would have still have 
 to be ‘trimming’ the derailler using your left hand to prevent rubbing.  In 
 my setup, the left hand does nothing except braking now.

  

 One other thing I did was take a few links out of the chain, since it 
 never leaves the 34t chainring (it used to have to be long enough to 
 accommodate the 48t chainring).

  

 The 

Re: [RBW] Bike Stretch and the most all aroundish of all arounders?

2014-03-25 Thread Bruce Herbitter
When I put 28mm tires on my Ram, it's frisky. With 37s, it's plush. I 
think the same thing goes for most on your list.



On 3/25/2014 2:37 PM, Richard Rios wrote:

Hi Everyone,

ISo potentially you could buy two of the exact same model and 
stretch them to opposite ends and not end up with the same bike at 
all. What do you think?


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[RBW] Re: WTB: Viva Olive Green Cloth Tape

2014-03-25 Thread Bill Lindsay
I'd call Jitensha before concluding it's really gone.  Their website can be 
quite out of sync with what is really in the store. 



On Tuesday, March 25, 2014 2:50:17 PM UTC-7, David Banzer wrote:

 Anyone have a couple extra rolls of the Viva Olive Green Cloth handlebar 
 tape?
 Rivendell used to sell it until Newbaum's became they're go to cloth tape.
 Or can anyone point me to where I can order some still? Jitensha carries 
 it, but looks like they're out of this color.
 Specifically looking for this type as it's a very nice match to my Redwood 
 when clear shellacked.

 I bought a couple rolls of Newbaum's lime green but it is a slightly 
 different shade. If anyone wants these, how's about $8 shipped?

 If I can't find the Viva tape, think I'll do gray Newbaum's to go for a 
 similar look to this: http://www.jitensha.com/eng/brooks_toei.html

 Thanks,
 David
 Chicago


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Re: [RBW] Re: WTB: Viva Olive Green Cloth Tape

2014-03-25 Thread David Banzer
Bill,
Thanks for confirming my suspicion. I'll give them a call.
David


On Tue, Mar 25, 2014 at 5:04 PM, Bill Lindsay tapebu...@gmail.com wrote:

 I'd call Jitensha before concluding it's really gone.  Their website can
 be quite out of sync with what is really in the store.



 On Tuesday, March 25, 2014 2:50:17 PM UTC-7, David Banzer wrote:

 Anyone have a couple extra rolls of the Viva Olive Green Cloth handlebar
 tape?
 Rivendell used to sell it until Newbaum's became they're go to cloth tape.
 Or can anyone point me to where I can order some still? Jitensha carries
 it, but looks like they're out of this color.
 Specifically looking for this type as it's a very nice match to my
 Redwood when clear shellacked.

 I bought a couple rolls of Newbaum's lime green but it is a slightly
 different shade. If anyone wants these, how's about $8 shipped?

 If I can't find the Viva tape, think I'll do gray Newbaum's to go for a
 similar look to this: http://www.jitensha.com/eng/brooks_toei.html

 Thanks,
 David
 Chicago

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[RBW] Re: FS: Park Torque, Nitto, Pletscher, Brooks, Power Grips, bell, seatpost

2014-03-25 Thread Michael


 *UPDATE:*

*Two more items for sale:*
 
1. Dark Blue *Newbaum's* - two rolls. 8$ for the pair
2. *Dia Compe Gran Compe Road Brake Levers.* 
In good shape. Nice, smooth action. Seem extremely well built.
I have no idea what they are worth so make me an offer.
Buyer pats shipping to CONUS.

See them here:
*https://www.flickr.com/photos/70237737@N00/sets/72157642910125523/*https://www.flickr.com/photos/70237737@N00/sets/72157642910125523/
Show trimmed content 

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[RBW] Re: FS: Park Torque, Nitto, Pletscher, Brooks, Power Grips, bell, seatpost

2014-03-25 Thread Michael


 UPDATE:

Brooks is sold. Thanks. 

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[RBW] Re: FS: Riv Noodle Complete Cockpit

2014-03-25 Thread David Banzer
Barend shifters are sold.

Going to split this one up as I think I would like to keep the stem. Have 
 another stem to sell if interested, see below. 

 Prices do not include shipping. 

 Nitto Noodle Bars 48cm - $50
 Nitto Technomic Standard 11cm - $40
 Suntour Cyclone 7000 Brake Levers - $40
 Brass Bell - $8

 Would prefer Paypal Personal payment, please. 

 Also, would like to trade:
 MY: 11cm Nitto Technomic Deluxe Stem, for
 YOUR: 10cm Nitto Technomic Deluxe Stem

 Contact off list if interested in anything, please. 
 Thanks,
 David
 Chicago



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[RBW] Re: Bike Stretch and the most all aroundish of all arounders?

2014-03-25 Thread RJM
You forgot the Betty Foy, Cheviot

My Cheviot, if I get one, is going to be my off road mountain bike. 


I can tell you from experience that the Roadeo is certainly more frisky 
road than a Sam Hillborne, but still rides like a riv. What I mean is that 
it feels a little quicker turning and quicker to get up to speed, but still 
rides comfortably like a Riv always does. 

I have thought of getting a Homer to take the place of Sam just because I 
like the fancier lugs and nearly horizontal top tube, but it would be 
purely fashion in front of function. 

On Tuesday, March 25, 2014 2:37:08 PM UTC-5, Richard Rios wrote:

 Hi Everyone,

 I was thinking about adding adding a second Riv to compliment the Cheviot 
 / Hillborne I will be building up soon.  I was /  am trying to avoid a bike 
 that is to close in function.  So when I started thinking on it... this is 
 what I came up with (see below) :).  It kinda takes some liberty by adding 
 the Bomba / not being a production bike per say, and the San Marcos / being 
 a Soma.  But you could remove them and have roughly the same thing. After 
 doing this I kinda came to the conclusion that for every one Riv bike you 
 end up with 3.  So a Sam can be just a Sam / Road Touring bike or Stretched 
 (+1) into Atlantis Territory full blown touring, or stretched (-1) into 
 Homer's  country bike territory.  So potentially you could buy two of the 
 exact same model and stretch them to opposite ends and not end up with 
 the same bike at all. What do you think? 


   
   


 off road 
 expidition off road mountain  touring   road 
 touring country bikesport touringFrisky road

  
 BombaHunquaAtlantisSam HHomerSan 
 Marcos---Roadeo

   
 
  --
   

 +1Bike Stretch  -1
   
   
 for each given model



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[RBW] Re: Bike Stretch and the most all aroundish of all arounders?

2014-03-25 Thread Bill Lindsay
I had a very similar thought.  I thought I'd sell my Sam and replace it 
with an Atlantis for the fancier lugs and nearly horizontal top tube.  I 
sold my Sam, never bothered to buy an Atlantis, and lucked out buying my 
Sam back!  

When I had a similar thought about selling my Homer, I instead parked it at 
my parents' house, so I'll have a bike to ride while I'm visiting.  Now, I 
find I'm desperately missing my Homer, so I think I'll bring my least-loved 
bike to my parents' house, and reclaim the Homer.  Then absence will make 
the heart grow fonder again.  

On Tuesday, March 25, 2014 3:16:06 PM UTC-7, RJM wrote:


 I have thought of getting a Homer to take the place of Sam just because I 
 like the fancier lugs and nearly horizontal top tube, but it would be 
 purely fashion in front of function. 




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Re: [RBW] Re: Bike Stretch and the most all aroundish of all arounders?

2014-03-25 Thread Bruce Herbitter
My Road, Ram and Saluki all have different geometry and I usually rotate 
rides among them. It rarely fails to happen that as I climb aboard the 
ride du jour, I remark to myself, This bike is sooo comfortable.



On 3/25/2014 5:25 PM, Bill Lindsay wrote:
I had a very similar thought.  I thought I'd sell my Sam and replace 
it with an Atlantis for the fancier lugs and nearly horizontal top 
tube.  I sold my Sam, never bothered to buy an Atlantis, and lucked 
out buying my Sam back!


When I had a similar thought about selling my Homer, I instead parked 
it at my parents' house, so I'll have a bike to ride while I'm 
visiting.  Now, I find I'm desperately missing my Homer, so I think 
I'll bring my least-loved bike to my parents' house, and reclaim the 
Homer.  Then absence will make the heart grow fonder again.


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[RBW] Re: New Bike Day - Lavendar Saluki!

2014-03-25 Thread hsmitham
Tony,

Congrats on finally receiving the Saluki. I know all too well the 
excitement of that day, reminds me of childhood when I had no 
responsibility to speak of and your parents get you that new bike, it 
spells freedom. I also think you're wise to let the color either grow on 
you or not before leaping into the paint process. Though getting the color 
just right is also really sweet and makes it truly new. There's a silver 
Saluki rolling around these parts and it really shows what can be done with 
this frame set. 

http://www.flickr.com/photos/coconutbill/13022295073/

I met the feller and that bike really gets him around.

~Hugh

On Friday, March 21, 2014 8:46:11 PM UTC-7, Tony DeFilippo wrote:

 http://dr2dc.blogspot.com/2014/03/new-bike-day.html

 I'm quite satisfied to say that I've introduced another Riv to the East 
 Coast (to offset the big Atlantis I sent to Portland)... I got the bike 
 together and out for a quick test ride this afternoon and was grinning from 
 ear to ear.  It fits, it looks great, it rides as good as any bike I've 
 ridden before... very stable and compared to my recent bikes (Atlantis, 
 Trek 650B, XO-3) is quite spritely.  I've got some riding plans for the 
 weekend and will be sharing alot more pictures for sure.

 Still not 100% on the color, but I'm going to enjoy it a bit before I make 
 any decisions on that front.  Thanks very much to Amy for making this sale 
 work and taking such great care of the bike for the past 8 or 9 years!



 https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-7fbZ0nz3puE/Uy0HAqu0YYI/DeA/apfW8CG_7bI/s1600/RAD_1377.jpg




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[RBW] Re: Single-Chainring Drivetrains

2014-03-25 Thread HunqRider
Bobby,
It's all about simplicity.  I used to ride a bike with all the different 
gears, a Garmin GPS to track my mileage and speed, a cadence meter, etc.  I 
just got sick of all that extra stuff.  On my new bike, I originally had 
the double chainrings, but I was never using the big ring, so it made sense 
to ditch it and go for the 1x8 setup; easier to keep clean, less to think 
about while riding.  Even now I hardly ever spend any time in the small 
cogs, so I'm not cross-chaining for a large % of my riding time.  If I 
lived in area that was flatter, I'd like to go with a single-speed, but 
alas, I need some gears for the hills.


On Tuesday, March 25, 2014 1:08:55 PM UTC-7, Montclair BobbyB wrote:

 Sorry, but I'm just not getting (or buying into) this 1x fad... AND I 
 believe chain line is really important and cross-chaining IS bad, despite 
 what some claim about their ridiculous 1x11 setups.  Someone please 
 convince me otherwise.  WHAT is so awful about a front derailleur and a 
 triple chain ring??? It provides all the gear range one could ever want, 
 and enables maintaining a straighter chain line (no extreme 
 cross-chaining!!)... The very thought of using the full range of rear cogs 
 on a single front chain ring makes me cringe.  Now, perhaps a 1x3 (using 
 only 3 centered cogs in the rear) makes more sense (but then you'd have 
 only a 3 speed).  I like my 21 speeds, thank you.

 I can almost understand if you're a racer, and front mis-shifts have cost 
 you valuable time; then I suppose losing the front shifter may be worth the 
 tradeoff.  Otherwise, I ain't gettin it...  That said, please feel free to 
 send me your unwanted front derailleurs... 

 Peace,

 Bobby (feelin grinchy) Birmingham


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Re: [RBW] Bosco Bullmoose Bars

2014-03-25 Thread Eric Daume
For mountain biking, I find myself moving wider and wider. For my primary
off road machine ( a Krampus) I have a ~700mm wide riser.

Coming from an Alba, I would take a look at a Surly Open Bar. Kind of the
same bends, but wider and I'm guessing stiffer (it's steel)

Eric Daume
On Mar 23, 2014 8:32 PM, Deacon Patrick lamontg...@mac.com wrote:

 I'd love to hear from someone who rides a lot of trails, especially with
 roots, rocks, snug tree gaps twists, and the like, how they ride. How do
 they climb? How big a difference does the solidness make in torque when
 climbing/maneuvering over/around obstacles and when descending with weight
 back on the bars at the brakes? How are they for long mellow parts? Any
 comparisons with the Albatross are appreciated as well.

 My sole issue with the Albatross is the feeling that when I pull on the
 bars or absorb a bump with elbow bend that they don't feel as solid as I
 would like. I love every other aspect of them, so hate to save to try a new
 cockpit if I'm loosing something in the process.

 With abandon,
 Patrick

 *www.MindYourHeadCoop.org http://www.MindYourHeadCoop.org*
 *www.OurHolyConception.org http://www.OurHolyConception.org*

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Re: [RBW] Bosco Bullmoose Bars

2014-03-25 Thread Deacon Patrick
Interestingly, Riv told me the aluminum bar is stiffer than the steel (I 
have the steel). That surprised me. Maybe it's the vertigo thing, but I'm 
not convinced wider is better for me on the trial. I much prefer the wide 
part of the drops to the long levers of the handles, where every wee motion 
is translated. In the hooks, only my intentions get carried out. I like 
that. Grin.

With abandon,
Patrick

On Tuesday, March 25, 2014 5:39:07 PM UTC-6, Eric Daume wrote:

 For mountain biking, I find myself moving wider and wider. For my primary 
 off road machine ( a Krampus) I have a ~700mm wide riser.  

 Coming from an Alba, I would take a look at a Surly Open Bar. Kind of the 
 same bends, but wider and I'm guessing stiffer (it's steel)

 Eric Daume
 On Mar 23, 2014 8:32 PM, Deacon Patrick lamon...@mac.com javascript: 
 wrote:

 I’d love to hear from someone who rides a lot of trails, especially with 
 roots, rocks, snug tree gaps twists, and the like, how they ride. How do 
 they climb? How big a difference does the solidness make in torque when 
 climbing/maneuvering over/around obstacles and when descending with weight 
 back on the bars at the brakes? How are they for long mellow parts? Any 
 comparisons with the Albatross are appreciated as well.

 My sole issue with the Albatross is the feeling that when I pull on the 
 bars or absorb a bump with elbow bend that they don’t feel as solid as I 
 would like. I love every other aspect of them, so hate to save to try a new 
 cockpit if I’m loosing something in the process.
  
 With abandon,
 Patrick

 *www.MindYourHeadCoop.org http://www.MindYourHeadCoop.org*
 *www.OurHolyConception.org http://www.OurHolyConception.org*
  
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[RBW] Re: Pre-Spring Cleaning

2014-03-25 Thread Corwin
Quickbeam wheelset is sold.

Still have a Velocity Fusion 700C rim - free for local pick-up.

Delta seat post rack - free for local pick-up.

Nitto UI-5GX 13cm threadless stem - $30 shipped.

Also have a Phil Wood front hub without a skewer I will part with for $50 
shipped.

Pictures 
herehttps://picasaweb.google.com/116556488890578434024/PreSpringCleaning
.

Thanks,


Corwin

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Re: [RBW] Re: New Bike Day - Lavendar Saluki!

2014-03-25 Thread Tony DeFilippo
Thanks Hugh!

It is a pretty cool feeling and it's nice to get all excited about
something and not be disappointed in the slightest,  you don't hear much
about 'riv-regret' (unless it is about selling a Riv!)  That silver Saluki
is sweet looking, it is a classy frame like all the Riv's for sure.  Looks
like you had a good ride with some friends out in San Bernardino lately!
 I'm looking forward to some more consistent weather out here so I can
really log some miles!

Tony



On Tue, Mar 25, 2014 at 6:46 PM, hsmitham hughsmit...@gmail.com wrote:

 Tony,

 Congrats on finally receiving the Saluki. I know all too well the
 excitement of that day, reminds me of childhood when I had no
 responsibility to speak of and your parents get you that new bike, it
 spells freedom. I also think you're wise to let the color either grow on
 you or not before leaping into the paint process. Though getting the color
 just right is also really sweet and makes it truly new. There's a silver
 Saluki rolling around these parts and it really shows what can be done with
 this frame set.

 http://www.flickr.com/photos/coconutbill/13022295073/

 I met the feller and that bike really gets him around.

 ~Hugh


 On Friday, March 21, 2014 8:46:11 PM UTC-7, Tony DeFilippo wrote:

 http://dr2dc.blogspot.com/2014/03/new-bike-day.html

 I'm quite satisfied to say that I've introduced another Riv to the East
 Coast (to offset the big Atlantis I sent to Portland)... I got the bike
 together and out for a quick test ride this afternoon and was grinning from
 ear to ear.  It fits, it looks great, it rides as good as any bike I've
 ridden before... very stable and compared to my recent bikes (Atlantis,
 Trek 650B, XO-3) is quite spritely.  I've got some riding plans for the
 weekend and will be sharing alot more pictures for sure.

 Still not 100% on the color, but I'm going to enjoy it a bit before I
 make any decisions on that front.  Thanks very much to Amy for making this
 sale work and taking such great care of the bike for the past 8 or 9 years!



 https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-7fbZ0nz3puE/Uy0HAqu0YYI/DeA/apfW8CG_7bI/s1600/RAD_1377.jpg


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[RBW] Re: Bosco Bullmoose Bars

2014-03-25 Thread Deacon Patrick
Played around with it more today. Inverted albatross is too low, but I 
learned a few things about tilt and height that are helping. Having 
returned to the upright position, I dropped the stem a few inches and 
tilted the albas so the handlebars are almost flat, lowering the hooks.

It really is amazing how much of the new bike excitement there is in 
ripping apart the handlebar tape and cork grips and viewing it all as 
liquid again. I am excited for my next longer ride and getting to tweak.

Another thing that struck me is how much more decisive I am. In the first 
year, any little change and I had to ride it for 70 or so miles before 
knowing if I liked it or not. I imagine part of that was the learning curve 
of sorting out the vertigo noise from seat and bar positions. I also 
imagine there is a muscle memory that tells me much faster what I like and 
don't like, even though I don't remember it myself (if that makes any 
sense). It is good to play with the set up now and again, even if you end 
up right back where you started -- you're still somewhere new, with new 
knowledge.

With abandon,
Patrick

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[RBW] WTB twin leg kickstand

2014-03-25 Thread Conway Bennett
I am looking to try out a kickstand so if someone isn't using a twin leg 
kickstand and wants to unload it for cheap let me know.  Thanks in advance!

Fair winds,

Captain Conway

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Re: [RBW] WTB twin leg kickstand

2014-03-25 Thread Dan McNamara
I probably have something you can try. More in a bit. 

Dan

 On Mar 25, 2014, at 6:19 PM, Conway Bennett captainconwaybenn...@gmail.com 
 wrote:
 
 I am looking to try out a kickstand so if someone isn't using a twin leg 
 kickstand and wants to unload it for cheap let me know.  Thanks in advance!
 
 Fair winds,
 
 Captain Conway
 
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Re: [RBW] WTB twin leg kickstand

2014-03-25 Thread Peter Morgano
does it need to be uncut?


On Tue, Mar 25, 2014 at 9:19 PM, Conway Bennett 
captainconwaybenn...@gmail.com wrote:

 I am looking to try out a kickstand so if someone isn't using a twin leg
 kickstand and wants to unload it for cheap let me know.  Thanks in advance!

 Fair winds,

 Captain Conway

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Re: [RBW] WTB twin leg kickstand

2014-03-25 Thread captainconwaybennett
I can cut it.

Fair winds,

Captain Conway Bennett

 On Mar 25, 2014, at 8:46 PM, Peter Morgano uscpeter11...@gmail.com wrote:
 
 does it need to be uncut?
 
 
 On Tue, Mar 25, 2014 at 9:19 PM, Conway Bennett 
 captainconwaybenn...@gmail.com wrote:
 I am looking to try out a kickstand so if someone isn't using a twin leg 
 kickstand and wants to unload it for cheap let me know.  Thanks in advance!
 
 Fair winds,
 
 Captain Conway
 
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Re: [RBW] WTB twin leg kickstand

2014-03-25 Thread Chris Chen
I think he was asking because it may be too short for you now :)


On Tue, Mar 25, 2014 at 6:53 PM, captainconwaybenn...@gmail.com wrote:

 I can cut it.

 Fair winds,

 Captain Conway Bennett

 On Mar 25, 2014, at 8:46 PM, Peter Morgano uscpeter11...@gmail.com
 wrote:

 does it need to be uncut?


 On Tue, Mar 25, 2014 at 9:19 PM, Conway Bennett 
 captainconwaybenn...@gmail.com wrote:

 I am looking to try out a kickstand so if someone isn't using a twin leg
 kickstand and wants to unload it for cheap let me know.  Thanks in advance!

 Fair winds,

 Captain Conway

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Re: [RBW] WTB twin leg kickstand

2014-03-25 Thread Peter Morgano
correct, I bet a bunch of us have cut ones laying around. I think I do but
you would need to tell us what you need. thanks.




On Tue, Mar 25, 2014 at 9:54 PM, Chris Chen cc...@nougat.org wrote:

 I think he was asking because it may be too short for you now :)


 On Tue, Mar 25, 2014 at 6:53 PM, captainconwaybenn...@gmail.com wrote:

 I can cut it.

 Fair winds,

 Captain Conway Bennett

 On Mar 25, 2014, at 8:46 PM, Peter Morgano uscpeter11...@gmail.com
 wrote:

 does it need to be uncut?


 On Tue, Mar 25, 2014 at 9:19 PM, Conway Bennett 
 captainconwaybenn...@gmail.com wrote:

 I am looking to try out a kickstand so if someone isn't using a twin leg
 kickstand and wants to unload it for cheap let me know.  Thanks in advance!

 Fair winds,

 Captain Conway

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Re: [RBW] Bosco Bullmoose Bars

2014-03-25 Thread Ron Mc
Deac, you're correct - aluminum bars will be stiffer than steel

On Tuesday, March 25, 2014 6:45:30 PM UTC-5, Deacon Patrick wrote:

 Interestingly, Riv told me the aluminum bar is stiffer than the steel (I 
 have the steel). That surprised me. Maybe it's the vertigo thing, but I'm 
 not convinced wider is better for me on the trial. I much prefer the wide 
 part of the drops to the long levers of the handles, where every wee motion 
 is translated. In the hooks, only my intentions get carried out. I like 
 that. Grin.

 With abandon,
 Patrick

 On Tuesday, March 25, 2014 5:39:07 PM UTC-6, Eric Daume wrote:

 For mountain biking, I find myself moving wider and wider. For my primary 
 off road machine ( a Krampus) I have a ~700mm wide riser.  

 Coming from an Alba, I would take a look at a Surly Open Bar. Kind of the 
 same bends, but wider and I'm guessing stiffer (it's steel)

 Eric Daume
 On Mar 23, 2014 8:32 PM, Deacon Patrick lamon...@mac.com wrote:

 I’d love to hear from someone who rides a lot of trails, especially with 
 roots, rocks, snug tree gaps twists, and the like, how they ride. How do 
 they climb? How big a difference does the solidness make in torque when 
 climbing/maneuvering over/around obstacles and when descending with weight 
 back on the bars at the brakes? How are they for long mellow parts? Any 
 comparisons with the Albatross are appreciated as well.

 My sole issue with the Albatross is the feeling that when I pull on the 
 bars or absorb a bump with elbow bend that they don’t feel as solid as I 
 would like. I love every other aspect of them, so hate to save to try a new 
 cockpit if I’m loosing something in the process.
  
 With abandon,
 Patrick

 *www.MindYourHeadCoop.org http://www.MindYourHeadCoop.org*
 *www.OurHolyConception.org http://www.OurHolyConception.org*
  
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Re: [RBW] Re: New Bike Day - Lavendar Saluki!

2014-03-25 Thread Hugh Smitham
It was indeed a great time all that I hoped for and then some. I'll be
posting my thought in more detail soon. Look forward to your future ride
images and reports.

~Hugh

Life is like riding a bicycle. To keep your balance, you must keep
moving. -- Albert Einstein

http://velocipedemusings.blogspot.com/




On Tue, Mar 25, 2014 at 5:43 PM, Tony DeFilippo vpi...@gmail.com wrote:

 Thanks Hugh!

 It is a pretty cool feeling and it's nice to get all excited about
 something and not be disappointed in the slightest,  you don't hear much
 about 'riv-regret' (unless it is about selling a Riv!)  That silver Saluki
 is sweet looking, it is a classy frame like all the Riv's for sure.  Looks
 like you had a good ride with some friends out in San Bernardino lately!
  I'm looking forward to some more consistent weather out here so I can
 really log some miles!

 Tony



 On Tue, Mar 25, 2014 at 6:46 PM, hsmitham hughsmit...@gmail.com wrote:

 Tony,

 Congrats on finally receiving the Saluki. I know all too well the
 excitement of that day, reminds me of childhood when I had no
 responsibility to speak of and your parents get you that new bike, it
 spells freedom. I also think you're wise to let the color either grow on
 you or not before leaping into the paint process. Though getting the color
 just right is also really sweet and makes it truly new. There's a silver
 Saluki rolling around these parts and it really shows what can be done with
 this frame set.

 http://www.flickr.com/photos/coconutbill/13022295073/

 I met the feller and that bike really gets him around.

 ~Hugh


 On Friday, March 21, 2014 8:46:11 PM UTC-7, Tony DeFilippo wrote:

 http://dr2dc.blogspot.com/2014/03/new-bike-day.html

 I'm quite satisfied to say that I've introduced another Riv to the East
 Coast (to offset the big Atlantis I sent to Portland)... I got the bike
 together and out for a quick test ride this afternoon and was grinning from
 ear to ear.  It fits, it looks great, it rides as good as any bike I've
 ridden before... very stable and compared to my recent bikes (Atlantis,
 Trek 650B, XO-3) is quite spritely.  I've got some riding plans for the
 weekend and will be sharing alot more pictures for sure.

 Still not 100% on the color, but I'm going to enjoy it a bit before I
 make any decisions on that front.  Thanks very much to Amy for making this
 sale work and taking such great care of the bike for the past 8 or 9 years!



 https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-7fbZ0nz3puE/Uy0HAqu0YYI/DeA/apfW8CG_7bI/s1600/RAD_1377.jpg


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Re: [RBW] WTB twin leg kickstand

2014-03-25 Thread captainconwaybennett
Thanks everybody.  It's a 56 Sam but I'm not sure what I need if it's cut.

Fair winds,

Captain Conway Bennett

 On Mar 25, 2014, at 8:56 PM, Peter Morgano uscpeter11...@gmail.com wrote:
 
 correct, I bet a bunch of us have cut ones laying around. I think I do but 
 you would need to tell us what you need. thanks.
 
 
 
 
 On Tue, Mar 25, 2014 at 9:54 PM, Chris Chen cc...@nougat.org wrote:
 I think he was asking because it may be too short for you now :)
 
 
 On Tue, Mar 25, 2014 at 6:53 PM, captainconwaybenn...@gmail.com wrote:
 I can cut it.
 
 Fair winds,
 
 Captain Conway Bennett
 
 On Mar 25, 2014, at 8:46 PM, Peter Morgano uscpeter11...@gmail.com wrote:
 
 does it need to be uncut?
 
 
 On Tue, Mar 25, 2014 at 9:19 PM, Conway Bennett 
 captainconwaybenn...@gmail.com wrote:
 I am looking to try out a kickstand so if someone isn't using a twin leg 
 kickstand and wants to unload it for cheap let me know.  Thanks in 
 advance!
 
 Fair winds,
 
 Captain Conway
 
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[RBW] Dura Ace 7400 group, parted out

2014-03-25 Thread Mike K.
Here is the 7400 group I posted about last week. Let me know if you want 
it. All prices below include shipping to the lower 48. 

Here's the link to the pictures:
 
https://www.flickr.com/photos/120965275@N06/sets/72157642650175245/https://www.flickr.com/photos/120965275@N06/sets/72157642650175245/
The group consists of:
7410 Crankset, 39/53 - $130 - includes the bottom bracket
VO 103mm Bottom bracket for above crank - sealed cartridge, maybe 100 miles 
on it
7403 Brakes - $100
7401 Brake levers. Have hoods, but not official Dura Ace. They're newer 
Shimano hoods I bought on Rivendell's site hoping they would fit. They're 
close, but not exact. - $80
7402 Rear derailleur 8-speed - $80
7400 Front derailleur - $50
7400 Hubs laced to Matrix Rims, 32-spoke, with rim tape and skewers - $210
Dura Ace 8-speed Cassette, 13-23 - $25 - Will include for free with 
wheelset if you want it.
BS7700 Bar End Shifters with Pods and downtube cable stops - $60

If you want a couple of items, I can combine shipping. 

Just let me know.

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[RBW] Re: MId-Weekend Update: SoCal Riders March Meander

2014-03-25 Thread hsmitham
It was awesome! Good miles, good company and I'll post my ride report soon 
enough.

~Hugh

On Sunday, March 23, 2014 8:00:00 AM UTC-7, cyclot...@gmail.com wrote:

 This was one of those rides that you plan out the small details on, and 
 then have to deal with multiple monkey wrench gangs. But as far as I know, 
 everything worked out!
 It started with Andy Schmidt letting folks know he would be visiting from 
 PDX for Spring Break. Great says we, as he has hosted many a Southlander 
 visiting up there, so lots of intentions to show a great ride down this 
 way. 
 After multiple ride options were discussed, including Santa Monica, 
 downtown LA, San Bernardino mountains, and OC mountains, a plan was worked 
 out to overnight in Joshua Tree National Park. A very unique and beautiful 
 experience, especially for a guy visiting from the wet and green Pacific 
 Northwest!
 Unfortunately I couldn't make, but was still part of the planning process.
 Hugh and Evan went there Friday to secure a camping spot for the group's 
 Sat arrival. And of course, they get there and the All campgrounds full 
 signs have been unfurled. Damn. 
 They end up getting a room in town, and resort to Plan B.  We go with the 
 Redlands to Angelus Oaks climb and camping option and hope to get hold of 
 Andy before he gets on the road to JT. 
 My plans had changed enough that I could ride with them the first part and 
 lead through town and up into the mountains. A beautiful overcast day, 20 
 degrees cooler than last weekend when we had the RSR! We fueled up with 
 burritos for breakfast, and head out the back roads and bike paths to get 
 to Hwy 38 leading up to the mountains. A beautiful ride till the point I 
 had to turn around and head back down the hill. No flats, but some 
 drivetrain mechanicals slowed us down a bit. The crew is somewhere in the 
 mountains as I write this, hope to catch up with them for lunch sometime 
 today and debrief the weekend's events!!!

 First day pics showing how we do it down this way: 
 https://www.flickr.com/photos/cyclotourist/sets/72157642763723203/

 Cheers,
 David

 it isn't a contest. Just enjoy the ride. - Seth Vidal



  

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[RBW] Re: WTB: Viva Olive Green Cloth Tape

2014-03-25 Thread Michael


 You can try Green Grips . They make nice cotton bar tape. They may have 
 something close.


 http://www.greengrips.org/

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[RBW] Re: WTB: Viva Olive Green Cloth Tape

2014-03-25 Thread David Banzer
I do know about, but had completely forgotten about, Greengrips. Weirdly, even 
though it's cloth tape, I've found it very easy to wrap, but too wide and thin 
for my likes. Purely personal. 

Realized handlebar tape is cheap and easily changed. Gonna go with grey 
Newbaums as I have a roll already and my LBS carries it. 

That being said, if a fellow lister comes across the Viva olive green tape, let 
me know. 
The Viva tape has been both the nicest feeling and easiest to wrap tape I've 
come across. 
David
Chicago

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Re: [RBW] WTB twin leg kickstand

2014-03-25 Thread Dan McNamara
If you are open to something other than a Pletscher twin leg then I have one of 
these I can send your way for cost of shipping. 

http://breadbike.com/2011/10/12/copenhagen-dual-leg-kickstand/

Works well just would not fit on the intended bike. You will need to figure out 
your own short bolt but that is just a trip to the hardware store. 

Nice thing about this stand is the adjustable legs. 

Let me know if you are interested. 

Dan

 On Mar 25, 2014, at 7:44 PM, captainconwaybenn...@gmail.com wrote:
 
 Thanks everybody.  It's a 56 Sam but I'm not sure what I need if it's cut.
 
 Fair winds,
 
 Captain Conway Bennett
 
 On Mar 25, 2014, at 8:56 PM, Peter Morgano uscpeter11...@gmail.com wrote:
 
 correct, I bet a bunch of us have cut ones laying around. I think I do but 
 you would need to tell us what you need. thanks.
 
 
 
 
 On Tue, Mar 25, 2014 at 9:54 PM, Chris Chen cc...@nougat.org wrote:
 I think he was asking because it may be too short for you now :)
 
 
 On Tue, Mar 25, 2014 at 6:53 PM, captainconwaybenn...@gmail.com wrote:
 I can cut it.
 
 Fair winds,
 
 Captain Conway Bennett
 
 On Mar 25, 2014, at 8:46 PM, Peter Morgano uscpeter11...@gmail.com 
 wrote:
 
 does it need to be uncut?
 
 
 On Tue, Mar 25, 2014 at 9:19 PM, Conway Bennett 
 captainconwaybenn...@gmail.com wrote:
 I am looking to try out a kickstand so if someone isn't using a twin leg 
 kickstand and wants to unload it for cheap let me know.  Thanks in 
 advance!
 
 Fair winds,
 
 Captain Conway
 
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