[RBW] Re: What size A. Homer Hilsen should I get, 54 or 56?

[Matt Beebe]

You can definitely ride a 55 or 56, and with the low BB you ought to be 
able to stand over it no problem.  PBH - 25cm (or SH - 15cm = 56cm) 
guarantees no less than a fistful of seatpost.


On Wednesday, August 10, 2016 at 11:02:07 PM UTC-4, blakcloud wrote:
>
> Yes, I have contacted Riv on this but I am leery of their suggestion as it 
> puts me on a bike that is smaller than I have ridden and this information 
> contradicts their own charts on the website.
>
> 81 cm PBH
> 71 cm Saddle height
>
> The chart on this page  
> would suggest a 55 or 56 (for 650 wheelset), yet I was told a 54 cm would 
> fit better. My inclination by looking at the geometry charts would be a 56. 
>
> What bothers me about the 54 is the amount of seat post that will be 
> showing. I dislike a lot of post showing. 
>
> Here is a photo 
> 
>  
> of a 54 with a 70 cm saddle height and for my tastes, too much post is 
> showing. My post would be 1 cm. higher and more of it showing because I 
> would use a shallower saddle.
>
> For those who have a 54 or 56 what is your PBH and or saddle height? What 
> would you suggest?
>
> For the record I own a 52 cm Sam Hilborne. It is built as a 
> commuter/picnic bike. Full fenders, front rack, basket, rear rack Albatross 
> bars, Brooks B67, dynamo, Schwalbe Marathons and kickstand. The Hilsen 
> would be a bare bones bike with Map/Ahearne bars, Hetre's etc. I have 
> everything for this build but I just don''t have a frame yet. This is going 
> to be my non-commuter bike.  
>
> Any advice would be greatly appreciated. 
>
> Thomas
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>

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[RBW] Re: Clem info for the Tall and Long

[Matt Beebe]

I'm sure the final geometry is probably still in the works but the top tube 
on the prototype 59cm on the blug definitely looks longer than 61cm.It 
looks like it's about ~63cm actual, and maybe ~65cm horizontal.



On Wednesday, March 18, 2015 at 9:12:25 AM UTC-4, Garth wrote:


   I had some questions about the Clem for Keven about the 59cm. Clem that 
 he graciously answered for me and thought I'd pass them along . 

 1. The head/front end(top of the head tube) on the Clem is virtually 
 identical in  height as my 60cm. Bombadil .  
 2. The top tube is 61cm-ish .  That's 2cm. shorter than the Bomba , :(  
 . (Too short for me,, boo-hoo , lol )
 3. The head and seat angles he as not positive on, likely the same as the 
 Bomba , which is a 72 ST and 71 HT. 
 4. In regards to number one, to get the highest bars, the steering tube is 
 always left as long as possible ! 
 5. The BB and headset are likely Tange's . 
 6. If you want a different front cable hanger, you can buy one separately 
 for it .  I assume he meant the would install it in place of the stock one. 


   And he welcomes questions, which is awesome !  !  

 Oh yes ...  he also added this : * Grant is making noise about creating 
 a 64cm Clementine which would have a bigger headtube (higher handlebars) 
 than your Bombadil and the 59cm Clem's, so that might be worth waiting for/ 
 signing up for.  Not sure if it will be included with the first shipment*
 .


 So there just *may *be a 64cm Clementine !  Which I'd love as a top tube 
 on a Clem would be close to my max clearance wise .  I always wanted a 
 Betty or something like it in the past but it was always just not quite 
 tall/long enough for me , so this solves all that :)  Yeah ! 


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[RBW] Re: Tips for Quick beam for long, mountain rides

[Matt Beebe]

On Monday, March 9, 2015 at 9:28:33 PM UTC-4, Deacon Patrick wrote:

 I'm not sure I would trust a BMX to those demands out in the boondocks 
 miles from anyone.



Why not?YMMV but BMX freewheels (e.g. ACS crossfire) are pretty 
bulletproof in my experience. 

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[RBW] Re: Downsizing and emotionally paralyzed...

[Matt Beebe]

On Monday, March 9, 2015 at 1:54:12 AM UTC-4, Esteban wrote:

 Keep them all  problem solved. Bikes are fun.



This.  Sounds like you're going to regret whichever one you let go.   It 
isn't really that many bikes, honestly.Do you have a car?  because, 
sell *that*.

 

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[RBW] Re: How do you clean you bike below freezing?

[Matt Beebe]

On Sunday, February 15, 2015 at 10:27:36 AM UTC-5, Kieran J wrote:

 When your bike is caked with slush and ice, and you are working outside, 
 sometimes the only thing to do is get a large bucket of hot water and douse 
 the bike. It's instantly clean and clear to receive lubrication. Shake off 
 the water and hit it with some Chain-L. 


This is what I do, and it's worked well for several winters.   if the bike 
sees plenty of rain in the warm months, why not give the bike a little 
shower to get the crud off in teh cold months.  


 

 Maybe not the most responsible technique, but it works ok when you're 
 doing this on nearly a daily basis.

 KJ


 On Friday, February 13, 2015 at 9:10:15 PM UTC-5, Deacon Patrick wrote:

 I generally leave my bike cleaning to the rain, same as we’ve always done 
 for our cars. But snow melting in the garage after accumulating on the 
 drivetrain makes it rusty. Should I just keep a steel brush out there to 
 clean it off after?

 With abandon,
 Patrick

 *www.MindYourHeadCoop.org http://www.MindYourHeadCoop.org*
 *www.OurHolyConception.org http://www.OurHolyConception.org*
  


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[RBW] Re: How have your Rivendells held up on salty winter roads?

[Matt Beebe]

With fenders and an occasional rinse when it gets really sloppy, you don't 
have anything to worry about.


On Thursday, January 29, 2015 at 9:33:04 PM UTC-5, lungimsam wrote:

 There is a 200k on March 5th I'd like to attempt. My only shot at training 
 is during the next 5 weeks, and the roads here in Maryland are trashed with 
 salt from the mild snows we have been getting, with more to come next week.
 Looks like no salt free roads for the next 10 days with the forecast 
 showing sporadic snows three times a week or so until then.

 So how have your bikes fared in the heavy salt. I have full coverage 
 fenders, so maybe that would help a lot.


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[RBW] Re: One drawback to flippin' your bike for roadside repair.

[Matt Beebe]

When shifting to the big 22t cog on my quickbeam, I do this.Like James, 
I guess I've been a bike flipper since childhood, but then the other people 
i know do it this way too.   I usually flip it in dirt, leaves, or grass, 
but sometimes not and don't find that the saddle has scratched much 
anyway.

I also do this for rear flats on my old sequoia which has non-aero 
levers... if you open the brake quick releases, the cables won't get 
kinked.  I think it's easier to avoid touching the chain if you just flip 
your bike when removing the rear wheel-  you can just use your tire lever 
and you don't even have to bother shifting onto to the smallest cog. 



On Monday, January 26, 2015 at 5:49:03 PM UTC-5, lungimsam wrote:

 Scratches your leather saddle to turn the bike upside down.

 In light of the Blog post about this, I figured I would ask you leather 
 users how you prevent the scratching from happening. Any convenient ideas?




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[RBW] Re: OT pocket knives and mineral oil

[Matt Beebe]

I've had success with vinegar on high carbon or non stainless knives for 
camping.   You can also use an apple, just cut one up to eat and then don't 
clean the knife for a few hours.  The acid basically creates a layer of 
Fe3O4 which does provide some protection from flaky red rust.For lower 
carbon steels (that still aren't stainless) people have used stronger acids 
and etchants to do the same thing.Heat will definitely speed up the 
chemical reaction.   I don't know about your damascus knife, I'd guess that 
this kind of treatment would obscure the pattern, but then you could always 
polish it away later.


On Sunday, October 19, 2014 11:25:57 PM UTC-4, Mathew Greiner wrote:

 Not long ago a thread had a handy tip about soaking an Opinel pocket knife 
 in mineral oil, then baking it at a low temp. Sounds like seasoning a cast 
 iron pan. 
 Ready to do this, and wondering if I should treat my horn handled carbon 
 blade pocket knives to the same treatment? What about the brass handled 
 damascus higonokami?
 Who has lots of fun information about pocket knife care?


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[RBW] Re: Rain Gear

[Matt Beebe]

Wool flannel shirts, wool undewear and socks.Twill dries fairly quickly 
compared to other cotton, so it's OK for pants.   I don't like any kind of 
'shell' jackets because i find them suffocating no matter how many vents 
you add, so I'd rather just be wet and wearing wool.   Shells are OK for 
camping, or when you're not moving anymore after a ride.   Also I find that 
regular moccasin type boat shoes, since they're kinda minimal, dry quickly 
too.



On Tuesday, September 30, 2014 11:43:00 AM UTC-4, A CT Cyclist wrote:

 Hi, what does everyone wear when commuting in the rain? I'm looking for 
 something that I can wear with normal clothing. Something light that I 
 can layer under and not sweat profusely, ha ha. 


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[RBW] Re: Original Mustache Bar Brake Lever Positioning.

[Matt Beebe]

It's down to personal preference but I find the OG moustaches work best 
when the tips of the hoods (where the cable exits) are no more than 12.5cm 
apart.Any more than that and I start to lose the 'on the hoods' 
position because the wrist angle gets weird.   



On Sunday, September 28, 2014 2:10:21 PM UTC-4, David Banzer wrote:

 It's been awhile since I've tried mustaches, but I wanted to try them out 
 again. 
 I'm using old Dia Compe non-aero brake levers and am trying to get a 
 comfortable position for them.
 Any tips for setting up brake levers on the original mustache bar?
 Thanks,
 David
 Chicago


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[RBW] Re: under-sizing

[Matt Beebe]

I do a lot of trail biking (which around here means the woods-  hilly 
singletrack with plenty of roots and rocks) on a Quickbeam, which is sized 
rivendell recommended saddle height minus 16cm.I have sometimes felt I 
should have more standover clearance, due to prevailing beliefs.But in 
fact when i think about it, I have actually never had an issue with 
standover-  not once that i can recall-  despite countless foot-downs, 
sudden dismounts, occasional spills, etc. I've definitely been nearly 
violated by the saddle a few times during a sudden dismount or slipped 
pedal, but never by the top-tube.


On Friday, September 12, 2014 11:18:17 PM UTC-4, rw1911 wrote:

 All of these recent Atlantis-for-sale posts have got me thinking of 
 building up an old school like mountain bike.  i.e. smaller than what Riv 
 would recommend for fit.  I recently sold an All-Rounder which I felt was 
 too big for me on anything other than light trails.  My road bike is a 60cm 
 Rambouillet and it fits well.

 I'm thinking something like a 56cm Atlantis with max (26x2.35?) tires. 
 200mm bullmoose bars to get the proper reach.  There would be over 20cm of 
 seat post, but could it work?  Anyone done it?  Also, are the 26 wheeled 
 Atlanti 650b capable?


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[RBW] Re: Quick Swapping of Wald Basket on Front Rack

[Matt Beebe]

It might not be quick (might even be tedious), but small hose clamps 
http://wetheadmedia.com/wp-content/uploads/pictures/2008/12/Small-Hose-Clamp.jpg
 
are reusable and would keep the basket firmly in place.In any case, as 
Michael pointed out you need something that has a strong clamping effect, 
otherwise the basket would likely rattle around.



On Sunday, September 7, 2014 7:52:41 PM UTC-4, Call Me Jay wrote:

 I'm thinking of getting a front rack and Wald basket for my newish Homer 
 for commuting use.  I already have a Sackville Shop Sack so it seems like a 
 no brainer.  That said, I'd like to able easily take off the basket for 
 weekend rides with a rando bag without having to cut zip ties.  Kind of a 
 hassle and a bit wasteful.  Any suggestions? 


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Re: [RBW] Re: New Sam Hillborne

[Matt Beebe]

You can distinguish between actual TT length and theoretical/horizontal 
length. Because of the ~6-degree upslope of the TT on the hillborne, at 
least on the the original metallic green ones, the size 56 had a 57.5 
actual TT length, but a 59cm horizontal length (measured level to the 
ground).



On Sunday, July 27, 2014 3:37:27 PM UTC-4, Bill Lindsay wrote:

 I don't want to confuse the discussion about the Samuel Hillborne, the 
 56cm Samuel Hillborne in particular, but here goes.  

 Not every 56cm Samuel Hillborne has a 59cm TT.  Patrick Moore's prototype 
 Waterford Hillborne undoubtedly did, and the Geo charts still say that it 
 does, but my Orange 56cm Hillborne does not.  Mine has a 57.5cm top tube.  
 At the time (December 2009) I was a little freaked out at the thought of a 
 59cm Top Tube.  Keven told me that it had been changed to 57.5cm.  I 
 measured on my new frame when I bought it and confirmed that's what it was 
 (57.5cm).  I have no idea how many 56cm Hillbornes have a 59cm top tube 
 like Patrick Moore's had, and how many have a 57.5cm top tube like mine.  
 All I know for sure is that at least one was 59cm (Patrick's) and at least 
 one is 57.5 cm (mine).  If the OP ends up buying a new Sam Hillborne, then 
 he'll need to start over comparing a 55cm and a 58cm Hillborne, with their 
 associated geonumbers.  If the OP buys a used 56, it may be useful to find 
 out which TT length he is getting.  As Patrick correctly pointed out, it 
 matters (although nobody said it didn't), and as Grant correctly pointed 
 out, it's not the only thing that matters or even the most important thing. 
   


 On Saturday, July 26, 2014 8:23:36 AM UTC-7, grant wrote:

 It must be true that you ended up with too bigga bike. I don't remember 
 the particulars and I'm sorry if the bike didn't work out. I may have 
 misunderstood some answers to questions or maybe didn't ask the questions 
 (the ones that steer me toward a recommendation) as clearly as I should've. 
 I may have goofed, but I didn't actively and knowingly sell you a bike 
 that didn't fit. I'm not saying it happened without me, just that even back 
 then I was as conscientious (concerned about fit) as I am now. But...sorry.

 The Long Low happened like15 or more years ago, and to this day the 
 length of a top tube remains easily misunderstandable. Of course it isn't 
 an isolated number. A 59cm top tube on one bike can feel short, and on 
 another bike, long...depending on Seat tube angle, even bb drop, stem exit 
 point and how that compares to seat tube length, and more obviously, to 
 handlebar shape.  On a bike like a LongLow that is meant to accept 
 useful tires and fenders, the front-center dimension is another tie-in to 
 the frame geometry...but this is getting kind of deep  detailed  
 defensive for what was supposed to be a quick apology with an acceptable 
 amount of personal defense!

 Anyway, sorry  best,
 G

 On Saturday, July 26, 2014 6:28:36 AM UTC-7, Charlie wrote:

 I AGREE !!!

 Grant sold me a Long Low 58 with a very long top tube = NO standover 
 clerance  way too long top tube (could have turned the stem around backward 
 to fit right). NOW it is with a new  happy owner.
 Charlie  

 On Thursday, July 24, 2014 11:59:52 AM UTC-4, Patrick Moore wrote:

 A dissenting opinion: I had a 56 and found the 59 cm top tube too long. 
 If you have a preferred bar and a preferred bar position with respect to 
 the saddle, there are limits to adjusting reach by adjusting the stem -- I 
 could not get the Sam's Noodle close enough to the saddle with a normal 
 stem, even with the Sam's relaxed seat tube angle. I could have used a 5 
 or 
 6 cm extension, except that would put too little weight on the front 
 wheel. 
 I ended up with the bar too high for my liking -- some 5-6 cm above the 
 saddle, when even for a country' bike I prefer it no more than 2 cm above 
 saddle. Top tube length matters!

 I personally would very definitely test ride one if you can, though if 
 you don't mind very high bars, you have less need to worry about top tube 
 length. Me, I like my bars where I like them -- it's not a variable but a 
 given.

 The Sam would be an excellent candidate for upright bars, though.


 On Thu, Jul 24, 2014 at 9:35 AM, lungimsam john1...@gmail.com wrote:

 Most people seem happy with the Rivendell method of sizing for their 
 bikes.

 *If this is your first bike*, just go with their sizing. You can 
 always use a shorter or longer stem, and rotate the brake levers little 
 more forward or back on the handlebars (if using drops) to try to buy the 
 centimeters you need to get the reach comfortable for you. If using other 
 bars, then it is even easier to fit for reach because you are talking 
 huge 
 sweep back and rise like on the Albas and Bosco bars.

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 By-the-hour resume and LinkedIn coaching.
 Other professional writing services.
 

[RBW] Re: Rivendell Silver Gruppo

[Matt Beebe]

I'm a big fan of RR or 'low normal' RDs.  If they made one with big jockey 
wheels it would be fairly unique I would think.




On Thursday, July 3, 2014 5:15:35 PM UTC-4, Michael Hechmer wrote:

 I would like to add that, although I am not a big Shimano fan, the RD 6700 
 is a fabulous derailler.  A Silver version would be even more fabulous.

 Michael

 On Thursday, July 3, 2014 12:30:15 PM UTC-4, grant wrote:

 It's not a deep rooted love of patchwork parts that's stopping SILVER (of 
 course)--although I have to admit that I personally have a DRL of them. But 
 from RIV's perspective, I'd love to have a group. Here's what's stopping it.

 1. Derailers.If it's not an original design(to some degree--obviously we 
 wouldn't start from scratch), then it's just private label, and I've always 
 thought just putting one's own label on an existing produts was half wimpy. 
 Not immoral, not making any judgments here, but it's always bugged me in a 
 tiny way, and I try to steer clear. It may happen now and then (nothing 
 comes to mind), and it's possible something's even slipped through already 
 and been forgotten, but my DREAM derailer would be a monster-pulley 
 rapid-riser, maybe with a slow-riser option for those not ready to take the 
 rapid-rise plunge. But derailers are complicated to make, and the makers 
 want volume we can't come close to. 

 Come to think of it, the SILVER shifter is just a copy of the SunTour 
 Sprint--but in this case I don't feel slimy, because SunTour had no 
 interested in remaking it under its label or any other--but was happy to 
 provide tech assistance and parts suppliers support to Dia-Come/Tech, the 
 SilverShifterMaker.

 2. As for redesigning or original designing parts in general...first 
 there should be a need that's not being filled. The GigantiPulley RR rear 
 der is one of them, although need is being stretched. Front derailers, I 
 know our mechanics would have some ideas on that, although most would 
 involve Not Requiring Shims to fit what we still consider to be a normal 
 seat tube diameter. The current shim necessity is not worth crying too much 
 over, I think. A small case could be made that shims make a gentler contact 
 point, although that's looking too hard for a silver (npi) lining,

 The crank will be dreamy, but the Sugino is just so good. It's hard to 
 make a case for the crank, except that at some point Sugino will quit 
 making the XD-2 or whatever we're supposed to call it, and then we'd be 
 stuck with nothing special (no offense if your favorite crank isn't 
 recognized here).

 Dang, the SILVER hubs violate our no mere private label ideal. We tried 
 to reshape the body, and it could be done, but it was thousands upon 
 thousands and high minimums to do that, and it was all for a superficial 
 uniqueness that ended up not making sense. So the SILVER hubs are an only 
 slightly unique combination of stock-available features from the hub maker. 
 We went with the best of everything and the quietest freewheeling (a matter 
 of how much grease is in there).

 But still in general, we like to fill in gaps rather than just fill out a 
 whole line. It would be so great to have, like, funding for this 
 stuff---but it's better to have a group like this who supports and 
 encourages and keeps us going day by day, so thanks to all of you.

 G

 On Wednesday, July 2, 2014 10:03:35 PM UTC-7, lungimsam wrote:

 Been reading about Campagnolo and his history in the new BQ mag.
 Very interesting.
 I think the idea of groupsets is really cool, especially if RBW had a 
 Silver groupset to sell one day.

 I don't think that will ever happen because they seem to like a 
 patchwork of parts for their bikes, *which makes total sense*, so you 
 can build it as functionally as possible with no restrictions to the parts 
 you want for your needs.

 But it would be cool to have everything on the bike matching Silver!

 So far you can patch together a Silver 4-piece group: sidepull brakes, 
 BE/DT shifter levers, chainrings, and a Hupe.

 Top it off with one of those Rivendell Rider Brooks saddles if you can 
 find one!



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[RBW] Re: If you were going to go out and buy a fully modern contemporary bike, what would it be?

[Matt Beebe]

I'm with the others who said that rivendell or surly etc. steel bikes are 
fully modern.  



On Wednesday, June 25, 2014 4:58:48 PM UTC-4, Bill Lindsay wrote:

 Most (all?) of us have a strong affinity for steel bikes.  Many of us like 
 various classic or retro properties:  lugs, friction dt shifters, fewer 
 than 11 cogs, etc.  Several of us really enjoy doing builds on classic 
 bikes from the 70s/80s/90s etc.  Many of us lament that nothing new or 
 contemporary speaks to us at all.  But many others of us do have openings 
 in the stable for things that are decidedly new.  Some of us run fatbikes. 
  A few of us maybe has a Gates beltbike, or a newfangled folder, or a 
 dual-suspension 29er.  Some of us even have a carbon bike.  

 My stable is now at 9 bikes all steel, but I'll admit that I'm pretty 
 darned infatuated with this bike:


 https://s3.amazonaws.com/NinerCompleteBuilds/Complete_bike_images/RLT+9/RLT9_Force_4star.jpg

 A sloping TT road bike, with more BB drop than a cyclocross bike.  135mm 
 rear end, disc brakes.  Very smart front facing fork tips and normal wheel 
 axles.  Takes 29x1.75 tires without fenders, and would easily run 700x38 
 tires (tubeless) with fenders.  Has all the integrated fender mount points. 
  Has a PF30 BB that makes it easy to set it up as a singlespeed.  

 Add to that I can get the frame/fork/headset from Jenson for $1050 and get 
 a free $250 gift card for my next purchase(s).  So it's an $800 frameset.
 I'm having a hard time thinking of anything not to like.  Five years ago, 
 when we whined that modern bikes were designed too much for pure road 
 racers, this is the kind of thoroughly modern real-world bike I thought was 
 missing.  I have bikes that are setup to carry loads well.  For mixed 
 terrain stuff that I'd do unloaded, this bike would definitely get ridden. 
  I imagine it would be incredibly fun

 Are there any thoroughly modern bikes that tempt you?  


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[RBW] Re: Grand Bois Cypres tires, a review.

[Matt Beebe]

exploring the nuances of supple-walled* 20 inch tires in a controlled 
environment

https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-ddPojOnh3E8/U6te5p47tcI/BaI/zpgK7pCaFLI/s1600/ww_tab2.jpg



*not really



On Wednesday, June 25, 2014 5:31:03 PM UTC-4, Bill Lindsay wrote:

 Jan Heine loves doing endos.  Rumor has it one of the reasons he likes SPD 
 pedals is that they are good for bunny hops.  I've heard he's bad at 
 wheelies, though.  I'm going to go out on a limb and guess he can't do a 
 table top.  

 http://cdn.bmx.transworld.net/files/2009/03/24/table.jpg


 :-)

 On Wednesday, June 25, 2014 2:26:51 PM UTC-7, Jan Heine wrote:

 When you brake hard, you put 100% of your weight on the front wheel. With 
 wide tires that run at relatively low pressures, that determines your tire 
 pressure more than the load on the tire. I find that about 10% less 
 pressure in the front than the rear works best for me on 42 mm Extralight 
 tires...

 Jan Heine
 Editor
 Bicycle Quarterly
 www.bikequarterly.com

 On Wednesday, June 25, 2014 12:58:00 PM UTC-7, Dave Johnston wrote:

 Why are everybodies F R tire pressures so close? Are you really that 
 centered over the wheels? 



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[RBW] Re: Dapper custom on Blug

[Matt Beebe]

I'm guessing Riv leaves the stem not fully inserted so it doesn't get 
marred or scratched prior to shipping to the owner.That way, it's up to 
the owner to set the stem height.   Riv probably would have done the same 
with the seat post, but they already know the customer's saddle-height down 
to the centimeter.



On Monday, May 26, 2014 10:16:56 AM UTC-4, RJM wrote:

 Great looking bike. I do agree with Patrick though, that quill is too long 
 for my tastes. 


 I think my next bike might be a Riv custom, they are just gorgeous.

 On Friday, May 23, 2014 11:28:31 PM UTC-5, Michael wrote:

 What  nice looking custom...dig the rear brake cable running under the TT 
 and the brake bridge and the star bosses and the window on the dropout stay 
 thingy, and the color, and how fast the bike looks.



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[RBW] Re: Quickbeam Sizing

[Matt Beebe]

If you like how the 59cm AHH fits, I think you couldn't go wrong with 
either a 58 or a 60.   

 


On Monday, April 28, 2014 1:14:50 PM UTC-4, Michael Fleischman wrote:

 Good Afternoon,
 I was curious if anyone could help me with sizing me up for a QUickbeam. 
  My PBH is 85.5 and I inseam is 32.  I currently ride a 59cm AHH and it 
 fits me well.  Anyone know what size Quickbeam if need?
 Michael

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[RBW] Re: What do Rivendell Riders use for gloves below 35 degrees F?

[Matt Beebe]

mittens!trigger mittens work well too for brakes etc.   but yeah, 
mittens.   I'll oftentimes put multiple layers of mittens on depending on 
how cold it is.


On Saturday, November 23, 2013 2:58:41 PM UTC-5, Michael wrote:

 Looking for gloves and thought I would see what you all use.


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[RBW] Re: Any Rivsters here commute more than 10 miles one-way? Cold weather tips?

[Matt Beebe]

The thing about wool is, it doesn't develop a smell or start to feel gross 
after wearing it.In fact you can wear it again and again before it 
needs washing, and it doesn't even *feel* dirty even when you've been 
wearing it several days (ask me how I know!).Plus if you wash it gently 
or hand wash it, it seems to last forever.  This isn't the case with 
cotton or synthetic materials, which nevermind smelling, also begin to feel 
gross as soon as the second time you wear it unless you wash it first. 
For this reason I haven't used polyester or even polyblend cotton for 
undergarments in years.   Cotton, maybe but synthetic definitely not.Of 
course your mileage may vary.

Matt

 

On Wednesday, November 13, 2013 11:26:18 AM UTC-5, Michael wrote:

 How are synthetic base layers (polyester,etc.)? They can be had for cheap. 
 But I wonder if they perform as well as wool?



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[RBW] Re: Any Rivsters here commute more than 10 miles one-way? Cold weather tips?

[Matt Beebe]

I have bicycle commuted about 16-17 miles one way for the past several 
years.I think you have to find what works for you by trial and error, 
but I've found the following things
work really well for me (for New England winter):  

-Use wool undergarments, next to skin is crucial, merino wool (like 
Rivendell has) is good for this
-Layers on the body, but definitely no 'shell' because you need ventilation
-Wool balaclava and ski-goggles
-Warm, roomy footwear with thick or multiple socks
-Mittens, possibly layered mittens.   This can make braking weird at first, 
depending on your bar setup but you can get used to it, and military 
'trigger mittens' work well
-Studded tires if you live where it snows
-Fenders of course
-saddle bag or basket because you're going to be adding/removing garments 
from time to time


I find that if I'm dressed OK, riding in the winter can be totally 
enjoyable.It gives you a very distinct experience from summer riding 
and has its own rewards.  Anyway good luck and have fun.


Matt


On Monday, November 11, 2013 11:24:33 PM UTC-5, Michael wrote:

 Just curious. 
  
 My commute may get longer soon.
 I had been doing partial commutes of 5.6 miles from a park-n-ride, but 
 would like to work up to the full 16 mile one-way commute one day.
 A change in my family's work schedule (3 of us with two cars) may 
 necessitate this sometimes.
  
 Any Riv-peeps' cold weather tips? Gets down into the 20's here in the 
 winter.


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[RBW] Re: Recommend wide cotton bartape please...

[Matt Beebe]

greengrips.org

Better than newbaums, IMHO, although it still comes wtih the awful paper 
backing unlike velox.Much wider than both though.

-Matt


On Tuesday, October 15, 2013 5:56:27 PM UTC-4, Michael wrote:

 But not Neubaums.
 Need something wider that will more easily wrap over gel padded drops.
  
 Thanks.


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[RBW] Re: Aspen Gold 3-day trip

[Matt Beebe]

Awesome stuff Patrick.   As others have said, keep up the great photos and 
tactical reconnaissance.

On Thursday, October 3, 2013 8:48:41 PM UTC-4, Deacon Patrick wrote:

 As my wife reminded me upon my return, I've been trying to get out and 
 immerse myself in Colorado's glorious aspen colors for over five years, but 
 my brain or daughters births prevented it. Not this year!

 The spot will look familiar to you if you've been gracious to view other 
 trips -- but not these colors. Wow. Visual symphony of color. Glowing gold 
 and orange with brilliant deep blue sky above and deep rich evergreen 
 dappled around and behind with grasses of tan and rust all combine to 
 delight the eye and feed the soul.

 I base camped, having a lazy ride in as my family hiked in (more technical 
 than they all like to ride -- yet) to spend the day with me before they 
 departed back home (we don't yet have gear for everyone for the 20˚F 
 nights). They departed in the late afternoon of day one and I settled in 
 for a few days of solitude and brain cushion recovery.

 Day 2, I woke at dawn, though the sun would still be 2 hours peaking over 
 the hill (what I get for camping on the west side of a 14,000 peak!). My 
 choices were to be lazy in my warm bag or get up and ride myself warm. I 
 rode. Climbing that next ridge will always warm you up! Once I couldn't 
 ride up the steep trail of Sentinel, I tied off the Hunqapillar and hoofed 
 it the rest of the way to the tundra. Amazing views of the Sangre de Cristo 
 and Collegiante ranges, as well as Lost Creek Wilderness, and South Park. 
 After returning to my bike, I felt good so headed to Horsethief Falls, 
 getting back to camp about 5pm. Standard day's food for dinner of beef 
 jerky, butter, and dried potatoes.

 Day three: a leisurely breakdown of camp as I wanted things to thaw/dry 
 before I hauled out extra weight, then up and over the three ridges before 
 the trail ended and I rode Edlow road and Hwy 24 back home.

 Amazing trip and my brain has a bit more cushion again! We'll see if the 
 snow allows more overnight trips or not this year. 

 My second eldest daughter had a blast taking photos of me riding, and she 
 has a real artistic eye emerging. 
 http://www.flickr.com/photos/32311885@N07/sets/72157636166222556/

 With abandon,
 Patrick

 *www.MindYourHeadCoop.org*
 *www.OurHolyConception.org*
  


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[RBW] Re: BQ on Mark's rack

[Matt Beebe]

On Wednesday, October 2, 2013 9:56:52 PM UTC-4, Brian Campbell wrote:

 More pics of the carbon rando bike:

 http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PVy2iKYmqK8

  
Is that Darth Vader behind the camera?   ;)

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[RBW] Re: BQ on Mark's rack

[Matt Beebe]

I agree with previous comments, I would not worry about using the rack on 
your SH. I think some readers (myself included) are almost shocked to 
see negative things written about products in magazines since most mags are 
merely long editorial advertisements, and any verbiage not glowingly 
positive must mean something is terribly wrong.One of the things that 
distinguishes BQ from other cycling publications is its willingness to tell 
the whole story regarding the stuff they review, including any negative 
aspects.Some of these negatives are down to personal opinion, and you 
have to keep that in mind. As far as I know BQ is not out to sell 
advertising since it is paid for by its readers, and I think that is what 
allows it to be interesting. 

Matt


On Tuesday, October 1, 2013 10:38:17 PM UTC-4, Edwin W wrote:

 In the picture of Mark's rack on the Calfee Adventure, the caption reads, 
 Heavy and flexible Mark's rack seems out of place on such a high end 
 bike. What are the stiff and light options? Custom?

 I am thinking of getting a Mark's rack when I can get the cash together. I 
 don't mind the heavy part, but are they overly flexible?

 Edwin He's not heavy, he's my Sam.



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[RBW] Re: '80s Peugeot built for off road riding, limited Riv content

[Matt Beebe]

Now that is a cool build.Drivetrain is particularly interesting. 
Looks like a big BMX bike, i.e. tons of fun.



On Sunday, September 29, 2013 6:32:21 AM UTC-4, Tom Harrop wrote:

 Hi list,

 Firstly an apology for the limited Rivendell content, but maybe some 
 members will be interested anyway.

 I've been thinking about getting another Riv to use as a specific MTB / 
 off-road bike. I think a 64 cm Sam would be just about big enough for me 
 and give me enough tyre clearance for the sort of riding I want to 
 do—nothing outrageous, just unpaved roads and singletrack. I contacted Riv 
 and was told that maybe a 64 cm Sam would be a little too small, and if I 
 wanted a specific off-road machine I should think about a second 68 cm 
 Bombadil. That's a little out of my price range for the foreseeable 
 future... (end of Riv content).

 I coincidentally found a 66 cm Peugeot frame for sale locally. When I got 
 it home I was surprised to find it had room for 40 mm tyres, so I decided 
 to build it up as a pseudo-MTB to test my Sam Hillborne theory. From my 
 research it's an early '80s PX-8, which was an entry-level touring bike—no 
 fancy tubeset or anything. I think the head and seat angles are 71° or 
 thereabouts and it has long-ish chainstays so it's not too unlike a Sam.

 I used a dirt-drop stem to get the bars nice 'n' high, which worked out 
 well for me because I prefer a short reach. Other than that it didn't turn 
 out to be a very Riv-ish build. I had planned a 1×7 drivetrain but because 
 of a quirk of the frame, using a derailer would have cost me a lot of tyre 
 clearance at the chainstay, so I got a Nexus IGH instead.

 I'm quite pleased with the Clément MSO tyres (although I'm no 
 connoisseur). They roll nicely on pavement, maybe even as nicely as the 60 
 mm Big Apples on my Bombadil, and they have been grippy enough for the mud 
 I've been through. Time will tell if 40 mm tyres are enough for my large 
 self on an off-road bike. I'm planning to take it down to the Black Forest 
 in a week or two for some proper off-road riding, with hills.

 Here's a photo or two of the build if anyone's 
 interestedhttp://catburston.smugmug.com/Frankenpug
 .

 Hope everyone has a nice Sunday.

 Tom
 Cologne, Germany


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[RBW] Re: Pikes Peak S30O

[Matt Beebe]

Awesome pictures Patrick.   Your backyard/riding territory is gold long 
after the rush.


On Saturday, September 28, 2013 9:36:45 AM UTC-4, Deacon Patrick wrote:

 Inexplicably, Steve joined me for a second ride, this one a sub-30 
 hour-outing, with more LCG ridge climbing, and a wee bit of snow. We went 
 in at the end of Craig's Road, popped over a ridge, made camp, and went joy 
 riding for the rest of the day and a good chunk of the next before packing 
 up and heading out.

 There is only chaos to the order of the photos (what I get for trying to 
 combine his and mine).

 Steve is a recovering weekend warrior style rider who is discovering the 
 virtue of using the LCG (lowest common gear) with both honor and joy. At 
 the end of our first day of riding he proclaimed That was the best and 
 longest day of mountain biking I've ever had! Uh oh. Watch out, trails!

 After all the creek crossings, my left platform pedal was creaking again. 
 H. Those bearings just aren't very sealed. Good thing the VP Vice are 
 working out great!

 It was a grand trip and great to have a friend along (all my previous 
 bikepacking adventures have been either solo or with some or all of my 
 family). I did let him sleep in till 7:30 though, as it is quieter when 
 he's sleeping. We introverts need our quiet time. Grin.

 http://www.flickr.com/photos/32311885@N07/sets/72157635975329866/

 With abandon,
 Patrick

 *www.MindYourHeadCoop.org*
 *www.OurHolyConception.org*
  


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[RBW] Re: Randonnerding totally loaded in Vermont and New Hampshire

[Matt Beebe]

Bobby, if you end up planning another trip to NH and VT next year count me 
in.


On Thursday, September 26, 2013 3:42:31 PM UTC-4, Montclair BobbyB wrote:

 Actually,Norm I had a great ride to the Kingdom planned for late 
 September/early October with a good friend from Sonoma, but he couldn't 
 make it back East. We even planned a stop at the Hill Farmstead in 
 Greensboro Bend, where Shaun Hill is brewing up some world-class beers, *(and 
 we all know beer and bike culture go together so well)*.  I also planned 
 to take advantage of the great snowmobile trails; it's such a gorgeous 
 area, definitely future Riv Rally territory... For now I'll have to 
 experience it (vicariously) through Matt B. Thanks for sharing the great 
 photos, Matt!!!

 It hasn't been a total bust, however... I did make it up to Grand Isle 2 
 weeks ago, where I enjoyed some great riding and had the pleasure of 
 attending a beer event at my brother's house, co-hosted by local beer hero 
 Sean Lawson (Lawson's Finest Liquids)... *a most righteous brewer is he...
 *

 Peace,
 Bobby 

 On Wednesday, September 25, 2013 2:38:27 PM UTC-4, Norman R wrote:

 Thanks for the report and photos.  I rode in that area for about a week 
 20-25 years ago and it was/is a perfect bike riding location.  Perhaps 
 Montclair Bobby B. or someone else more local could think about putting 
 together a Riv.RideEast?
 Norman

 On Tuesday, September 24, 2013 10:02:17 AM UTC-4, Matt Beebe wrote:

 Hi All, just thought I'd share some photos from a recent ride to 
 Vermont.I went to the Northeast Kingdom to visit friends not far from 
 the Canadian border, and took a nice route to get there and back.

 http://www.flickr.com/photos/43029278@N07/sets/72157635839369194/

 There are many, many miles of dirt road and snowmobile/ATV trails on the 
 way up there, some smooth, some rocky, but all fun.   Even the paved roads 
 are nice.   The scenery was gorgeous, and the leaves had begun to change 
 already, especially north of White River Junction.The small towns and 
 nice people in Vermont are the best.

 The bike handled perfectly, and the only thing that rattled loose was my 
 mudflap(!) toward the end of the trip on a particularly bumpy section. 
 You may notice I only have one water bottle, but that's because I prefer 
 dromedary bags for carrying most of my water-  the bottle is just a more 
 convenient vessel to drink from :)  

 This was my first fully loaded ride using moustache bars and the Nitto 
 Large back rack, which I bought from Riv a while ago-I had been using a 
 Tubus Cargo prior to this.I found the M-bars to be fantastic for 
 all-day riding.  I had used them before for ~2 hour rides on my QB and 
 reckoned they'd be good for touring, but have always just stuck with 
 Noodles since I know they work well for me. This ride convinced me that 
 M-bars give plenty of hand positions for comfort and work well on bumpy 
 terrain when riding somewhat heavily loaded.   You do need a short stem 
 with M-bars though.

 My only (minor) complaint about the Nitto rack is that platform is much 
 too far back behind the rear axle, and it is difficult to get weight far 
 enough forward with it due to the tombstone being so far back.Sliding 
 the mounting points forward at the top results in the rack tilting forward 
 at an odd angle.   This is strange to me since I ride relatively large 
 frames, and most racks (especially non-adjustable ones) end up tilting 
 backward because of the steep angle of my seat-stays.  The Nitto seems more 
 geared toward frames with ultra-short chainstays, or super-tall frames.
 BUT it is still a ridiculously nice rack though, and I have like 5 inches 
 of heel clearance with it (size 10's) so if you have large feet/ heel 
 clearance issues with your rack it would be a good option.I may go back 
 to the Tubus for future loaded riding, as it seems ideally suited to frames 
 in my size in terms of where the platform is located.I also really like 
 an R14 with the large saddlesack when not riding with panniers.

 Anyway hope you enjoy the photos.

 Matt



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Re: [RBW] Randonnerding totally loaded in Vermont and New Hampshire

[Matt Beebe]

Thanks everyone.Hey Elton, this bike is a lot like the Waterford, and 
rides a lot like it which is a good thing, but the Riv has a shorter top 
tube and room for slightly fatter tires, and a few other minor geometry 
differences.   The TT on the Waterford has me a bit stretched out for 
really long days (it's 60cm long).   Still sees a lot of action though, 
last trip on it being to southern PA.
 
Matt


On Thursday, September 26, 2013 7:18:49 AM UTC-4, Elton Pope-Lance wrote:

 Hey Matt,

 Great shots and adventure.
 Did you prefer the Atlantis to the custom Waterford you rode cross country?

 Elton Pope-Lance
 Natick, MA


  
 On Sep 25, 2013, at 8:46 AM, Rusty Click wrote:

 Hi Matt,
 What a great set of pictures!  My family and I spent 2 weeks in the 
 Newport area a couple of years back, and loved the cycling and kayaking.
 I've always wanted to do a bike tour in the area, and now you've got that 
 itch going again!

 Rusty Click
 Pittsburgh, PA

 On Tuesday, September 24, 2013 10:02:17 AM UTC-4, Matt Beebe wrote:

 Hi All, just thought I'd share some photos from a recent ride to Vermont. 
I went to the Northeast Kingdom to visit friends not far from the 
 Canadian border, and took a nice route to get there and back.

 http://www.flickr.com/photos/43029278@N07/sets/72157635839369194/

 There are many, many miles of dirt road and snowmobile/ATV trails on the 
 way up there, some smooth, some rocky, but all fun.   Even the paved roads 
 are nice.   The scenery was gorgeous, and the leaves had begun to change 
 already, especially north of White River Junction.The small towns and 
 nice people in Vermont are the best.

 The bike handled perfectly, and the only thing that rattled loose was my 
 mudflap(!) toward the end of the trip on a particularly bumpy section. 
 You may notice I only have one water bottle, but that's because I prefer 
 dromedary bags for carrying most of my water-  the bottle is just a more 
 convenient vessel to drink from :)  

 This was my first fully loaded ride using moustache bars and the Nitto 
 Large back rack, which I bought from Riv a while ago-I had been using a 
 Tubus Cargo prior to this.I found the M-bars to be fantastic for 
 all-day riding.  I had used them before for ~2 hour rides on my QB and 
 reckoned they'd be good for touring, but have always just stuck with 
 Noodles since I know they work well for me. This ride convinced me that 
 M-bars give plenty of hand positions for comfort and work well on bumpy 
 terrain when riding somewhat heavily loaded.   You do need a short stem 
 with M-bars though.

 My only (minor) complaint about the Nitto rack is that platform is much 
 too far back behind the rear axle, and it is difficult to get weight far 
 enough forward with it due to the tombstone being so far back.Sliding 
 the mounting points forward at the top results in the rack tilting forward 
 at an odd angle.   This is strange to me since I ride relatively large 
 frames, and most racks (especially non-adjustable ones) end up tilting 
 backward because of the steep angle of my seat-stays.  The Nitto seems more 
 geared toward frames with ultra-short chainstays, or super-tall frames.
 BUT it is still a ridiculously nice rack though, and I have like 5 inches 
 of heel clearance with it (size 10's) so if you have large feet/ heel 
 clearance issues with your rack it would be a good option.I may go back 
 to the Tubus for future loaded riding, as it seems ideally suited to frames 
 in my size in terms of where the platform is located.I also really like 
 an R14 with the large saddlesack when not riding with panniers.

 Anyway hope you enjoy the photos.

 Matt


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[RBW] Randonnerding totally loaded in Vermont and New Hampshire

[Matt Beebe]

Hi All, just thought I'd share some photos from a recent ride to Vermont. 
   I went to the Northeast Kingdom to visit friends not far from the 
Canadian border, and took a nice route to get there and back.

http://www.flickr.com/photos/43029278@N07/sets/72157635839369194/

There are many, many miles of dirt road and snowmobile/ATV trails on the 
way up there, some smooth, some rocky, but all fun.   Even the paved roads 
are nice.   The scenery was gorgeous, and the leaves had begun to change 
already, especially north of White River Junction.The small towns and 
nice people in Vermont are the best.

The bike handled perfectly, and the only thing that rattled loose was my 
mudflap(!) toward the end of the trip on a particularly bumpy section. 
You may notice I only have one water bottle, but that's because I prefer 
dromedary bags for carrying most of my water-  the bottle is just a more 
convenient vessel to drink from :)  

This was my first fully loaded ride using moustache bars and the Nitto 
Large back rack, which I bought from Riv a while ago-I had been using a 
Tubus Cargo prior to this.I found the M-bars to be fantastic for 
all-day riding.  I had used them before for ~2 hour rides on my QB and 
reckoned they'd be good for touring, but have always just stuck with 
Noodles since I know they work well for me. This ride convinced me that 
M-bars give plenty of hand positions for comfort and work well on bumpy 
terrain when riding somewhat heavily loaded.   You do need a short stem 
with M-bars though.

My only (minor) complaint about the Nitto rack is that platform is much too 
far back behind the rear axle, and it is difficult to get weight far enough 
forward with it due to the tombstone being so far back.Sliding the 
mounting points forward at the top results in the rack tilting forward at 
an odd angle.   This is strange to me since I ride relatively large frames, 
and most racks (especially non-adjustable ones) end up tilting backward 
because of the steep angle of my seat-stays.  The Nitto seems more geared 
toward frames with ultra-short chainstays, or super-tall frames.BUT it 
is still a ridiculously nice rack though, and I have like 5 inches of heel 
clearance with it (size 10's) so if you have large feet/ heel clearance 
issues with your rack it would be a good option.I may go back to the 
Tubus for future loaded riding, as it seems ideally suited to frames in my 
size in terms of where the platform is located.I also really like an 
R14 with the large saddlesack when not riding with panniers.

Anyway hope you enjoy the photos.

Matt

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[RBW] Re: Randonnerding totally loaded in Vermont and New Hampshire

[Matt Beebe]

Thanks Patrick, and LOL yes the Coronary trail gave me a chuckle.   There 
was also a Coronary By-pass trail but I didn't get a photo of that 
sign.   That was in the Kingdom Trails near Burke VT. 



On Tuesday, September 24, 2013 10:08:00 AM UTC-4, Deacon Patrick wrote:

 Wow! Fantastic photos of a grand backroads tour. I presume you are playing 
 the piano you picked up? I particularly loved the Coronary trail.

 WIth abandon,
 Patrick

 On Tuesday, September 24, 2013 8:02:17 AM UTC-6, Matt Beebe wrote:

 Hi All, just thought I'd share some photos from a recent ride to Vermont. 
I went to the Northeast Kingdom to visit friends not far from the 
 Canadian border, and took a nice route to get there and back.

 http://www.flickr.com/photos/43029278@N07/sets/72157635839369194/

 There are many, many miles of dirt road and snowmobile/ATV trails on the 
 way up there, some smooth, some rocky, but all fun.   Even the paved roads 
 are nice.   The scenery was gorgeous, and the leaves had begun to change 
 already, especially north of White River Junction.The small towns and 
 nice people in Vermont are the best.

 The bike handled perfectly, and the only thing that rattled loose was my 
 mudflap(!) toward the end of the trip on a particularly bumpy section. 
 You may notice I only have one water bottle, but that's because I prefer 
 dromedary bags for carrying most of my water-  the bottle is just a more 
 convenient vessel to drink from :)  

 This was my first fully loaded ride using moustache bars and the Nitto 
 Large back rack, which I bought from Riv a while ago-I had been using a 
 Tubus Cargo prior to this.I found the M-bars to be fantastic for 
 all-day riding.  I had used them before for ~2 hour rides on my QB and 
 reckoned they'd be good for touring, but have always just stuck with 
 Noodles since I know they work well for me. This ride convinced me that 
 M-bars give plenty of hand positions for comfort and work well on bumpy 
 terrain when riding somewhat heavily loaded.   You do need a short stem 
 with M-bars though.

 My only (minor) complaint about the Nitto rack is that platform is much 
 too far back behind the rear axle, and it is difficult to get weight far 
 enough forward with it due to the tombstone being so far back.Sliding 
 the mounting points forward at the top results in the rack tilting forward 
 at an odd angle.   This is strange to me since I ride relatively large 
 frames, and most racks (especially non-adjustable ones) end up tilting 
 backward because of the steep angle of my seat-stays.  The Nitto seems more 
 geared toward frames with ultra-short chainstays, or super-tall frames.
 BUT it is still a ridiculously nice rack though, and I have like 5 inches 
 of heel clearance with it (size 10's) so if you have large feet/ heel 
 clearance issues with your rack it would be a good option.I may go back 
 to the Tubus for future loaded riding, as it seems ideally suited to frames 
 in my size in terms of where the platform is located.I also really like 
 an R14 with the large saddlesack when not riding with panniers.

 Anyway hope you enjoy the photos.

 Matt



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[RBW] Re: A weekend in the Methow Valley

[Matt Beebe]

Wow, that scenery is gorgeous, and nice report.Also, I consider having 
to get off and walk your bike periodically to be a strong indicator that 
you are doing things right  :)

 

On Monday, September 23, 2013 2:33:50 AM UTC-4, Cecily Walker wrote:

 A group of 7 friends and I took a long weekend trip to the Methow Valley 
 in the North Cascades of Washington. Long before I got a Betty Foy, I 
 dreamed of riding single track, but couldn't find much locally that wasn't 
 very technical trails that required mountain bikes. My friend Kay, a 
 seasoned mountain bike enthusiast, ensured me that the blue trails in the 
 Okanogan National Forest would be a piece of cake for the Betty Foy, and 
 she was right. 

 Here's a map of where we rode: 
 http://www.mvsta.com//images/sunmap_summer.jpg

 It was my first time doing riding of this sort, and it took some getting 
 used to. The trail was a mixture of large loose gravel, sandy soil, mud, 
 and pine needles over hard packed dirt. To make matters worse, the 
 osteoarthritis in my right knee really flared up a couple of days before 
 the trip, and unfortunately the cortisone shot I had the day before my 
 departure didn't do much for the inflammation. I was undaunted though.

 Friday morning dawned cool with cerulean blue skies with nary a cloud in 
 sight. The layer of cool air was fairly shallow, because by the time we got 
 our bikes unloaded from the car, things had warmed up enough for me to go 
 on without a jacket. 

 We combined the Beaver Pond and Rodeo trails to do a loop around Beaver 
 Lake. I had some trouble finding the right gear to match the ground 
 conditions at first, but after about the first 20 minutes I seemed to get 
 the hang of things. The only times I had to get off my bike were to push up 
 a couple of short, steep inclines I didn't change gears quickly enough for, 
 and to scale down a rock garden incline that Kay thought might be a bit 
 much for a novice rider on Soma New Express tires. 

 Because I got out to the country and put the Betty Foy through her paces, 
 I feel as if I'm finally a part of the Rivendell club. I'm sad to say that 
 the summer single track season is rapidly coming to a close, but there's 
 always next year!

 Here are a few photos from the weekend. We stopped a lot on the way to 
 Winthrop, and were particularly taken with the views from Washington Pass. 
 There's a photo of me riding singletrack in the set from the weekend: 

 http://www.flickr.com/photos/cecily/sets/72157635790163246/


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[RBW] Re: FS: Albatross bar setup: Miesha's Cork grips, Nitto 11cm Deluxe stem, Tektro MTB levers, Silver shifters, cable housings. $150

[Matt Beebe]

Hi Jim,

I liked the Albatrosses a lot, but switched to 42cm Noodles a while ago.   
The Albas are great bars, very comfortable and versatile.I just prefer 
Noodles or M-bars for the kind of riding I am doing.

Matt



On Wednesday, September 11, 2013 8:02:49 PM UTC-4, Jim wrote:

 Matt, I was thinking of going to albatross bars from noodles. Can you 
 give your experience with the alba's and what you are changing to? 
  JIM D.  MASSACHUSETTS

 On Sunday, September 8, 2013 1:29:42 PM UTC-4, Matt Beebe wrote:

 Hi All

 I have a set of albatrosses with levers and cork grips installed (and 
 shellac'd, by Rivendell), mounted on an 11cm stem, including silver B/E 
 shifters, cable housings.Nearly new.Offering here for $150 shipped 
 CONUS.

 Thanks,
 Matt



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[RBW] Re: Low Normal Derailers

[Matt Beebe]

I haven't had much trouble switching to low-normal from regular sequence 
derailleurs.I even have both types on different bikes and switch 
between them frequently.After the first couple of shifts, I no longer 
have to think about it. Bikes are otherwise set up differently though 
so maybe that has something to do with it.

Matt


On Thursday, September 12, 2013 3:51:10 AM UTC-4, bobish wrote:

 Iirc, I remember reading about these at various times in my cycling life. 
 There were previous incarnations to this latest (now discontinued) model, 
 no? Anyway, this would be like changing the gear shift sequence on a 
 standard transmission car. Any improvement would be more than negated for 
 me by having to think about shifting. Ymmv. 

 • Perry

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[RBW] FS: Albatross bar setup: Miesha's Cork grips, Nitto 11cm Deluxe stem, Tektro MTB levers, Silver shifters, cable housings. $150

[Matt Beebe]

Hi All

I have a set of albatrosses with levers and cork grips installed (and 
shellac'd, by Rivendell), mounted on an 11cm stem, including silver B/E 
shifters, cable housings.Nearly new.Offering here for $150 shipped 
CONUS.

Thanks,
Matt

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[RBW] Re: FS: Albatross bar setup: Miesha's Cork grips, Nitto 11cm Deluxe stem, Tektro MTB levers, Silver shifters, cable housings. $150

[Matt Beebe]

Sold.Thanks everyone.



On Sunday, September 8, 2013 1:29:42 PM UTC-4, Matt Beebe wrote:

 Hi All

 I have a set of albatrosses with levers and cork grips installed (and 
 shellac'd, by Rivendell), mounted on an 11cm stem, including silver B/E 
 shifters, cable housings.Nearly new.Offering here for $150 shipped 
 CONUS.

 Thanks,
 Matt


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Re: [RBW] Re: Albastaches, how're you liking them?

[Matt Beebe]

I'm with CT on this one, moustache bars work great for me on 
offroad/singletrack descents.But then so do 42cm Noodles.I don't 
get along well with wide bars, and I've tried.In fact, even the 
old-style M-bars I have are a touch wide, but they're still doable and I 
like them. I have a tiny bird-shaped body though, no shoulders to speak 
of.



On Monday, September 2, 2013 1:13:54 PM UTC-4, cyclot...@gmail.com wrote:

 Interesting... yes, much closer together than on a wide MTB bar. I 
 ride in singletrack all the time, and not been a problem, but YMMV on 
 that :-) 

 On 9/2/13, Mike mjaw...@gmail.com javascript: wrote: 
  
  
  On Monday, September 2, 2013 9:53:41 AM UTC-7, cyclot...@gmail.comwrote: 
  
  I'm not understanding the problem with descents on M-bars (new or 
  old). 
  
  
  Hands are too close together. I came bombing down Germantown Rd with 
 them 
  on my Rambouillet a few years back and felt like I had lousy control of 
 the 
  
  bike going into and through twisty and tight corners at speed. I was 
 sorta 
  hoping the wider width of the new bars would resolve that issue. 
  
  --mike 
  
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 -- 
 Cheers, 
 David 

 it isn't a contest. Just enjoy the ride. - Seth Vidal 


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[RBW] Re: Sam creaking today with new set up. Any advice?

[Matt Beebe]

Not sure if this will help, but I've had stem creakage before that went 
away after putting some anti-seize compound (not quite grease, but a solid 
paste with copper or nickel added) on the wedge and submerged portion of 
the stem.Never had a problem since.

Matt


On Saturday, August 31, 2013 9:51:23 PM UTC-4, Michael wrote:

 *What Happened:*
 After about 10 miles riding, something on bars/stem started creaking when 
 I put weight on the right ramp, hood, and drops. Left side doesn't creak if 
 I put weight on it.
 I tightened the hood, and stem bar clamp. Stem bolt is tight. Bars still 
 squeak but not as bad.
 ** 
 *Info history:*
 I put my new, from RBW, 41 Noodles on it and set it up as close as I could 
 to my dependable Giant bike set up.
 Bars 1.3cm below saddle height. Feels great. Nitto Deluxe stem 190 rise. 
 Only about 3mm's left before stem extension bottoms out by hitting the 
 headset lock nut. So I think stem wedge should be above the butt of the 
 head tube if there is one. I have used this setup at higher bar levels and 
 no creaking. Just today after setting it 1.3cm below saddle. At 1cm below 
 saddle, no creaks either.
  
 BTW, I *lightly* greased the stem below min insertion point and 
 wedge when installing.
  
 *Ideas?:*
 Maybe needs grease on bar cuff at stem clamp?
 More grease on stem and wedge?
 Maybe the stem being all the way down in steer tube is creaking because so 
 much of it is contacting the inside of steer tube now and the whole rise 
 shaft need grease?
  
 New 41 Noodle from RBW, so I don't think the bar would have a crack in it 
 that creaks. The bars are flexy (both sides) and I can see them flex when I 
 push hard on the drops. I did this with bike stopped to try to make it 
 creak to see where the noise is coming from.
  
 *Any other ideas come to mind?*
  
  


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[RBW] Re: Stolen SimpleOne (Sacramento)

[Matt Beebe]

Wow! really good to hear you got it back.  I agree with Ray though, if 
the pawn shop buys stolen goods, that's their problem, not yours.   

Matt



On Saturday, August 31, 2013 2:54:56 PM UTC-4, David wrote:

 Found!  Thirty days later.  Pawn shop in town had it listed on CL.  Very 
 kind RBW Group member alerted me to it.  It's unharmed.  We picked it up 
 today.  Thief sold it to the pawn shop for $60 (which I had to pay), and 
 the pawn shop had it for sale for $600.  Thanks for all your kind thoughts.

 On Tuesday, August 13, 2013 1:30:39 PM UTC-7, David wrote:

 These recovery attempts are a long-shot, but I have to try.  My SimpleOne 
 was stolen a couple weeks ago.  Police report filed within 24 hours.  No 
 luck yet.  Thanks for your time.
  
 http://sacramento.craigslist.org/bik/3999794563.html


 https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-rMvcRJamiMM/UgqXU5mKF0I/AOk/ypqr2q1Vksg/s1600/IMG_0292.JPG
  



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[RBW] Re: Recommendations for Saddle Bag--mostly for books

[Matt Beebe]

I'd recommend the Saddlesack Large for books.I own both the Carradice 
Nelson and Camper and they are great bags, but for books, the Saddlesack 
bags with a rack are the way to go hands down.They so easy to use and 
so spacious, they make carrying stuff on your bike a no-brainer.

Matt


On Thursday, August 22, 2013 9:40:35 PM UTC-4, Tom Goodmann wrote:

 With a school year just about underway, I'm late to ask; looking for 
 recommendations for a saddle bag--likely more flat than square--for 
 ferrying books  a notebook pc on a Sam or a Heron Touring.  Each has a 
 rear rack too, so panniers are another way to go, of course, but my first 
 thought is for a saddle bag-style sort of brief case (behind a B-17, yup). 
 Suggestions appreciated.  --Tom in Miami


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[RBW] Re: Custom Appaloosa Update

[Matt Beebe]

Dual diagatubes?! This bike is going to be amazing and truly unique. 
 Parts lists for the build sounds cool.  I love those IRD needle 
bearing headsets-   best ever IMHO, and the Phil Rivy hub will be sweet.
Also regarding the 40/26 crank, I have one and after exhaustively 
cataloging/obsessing about the range of ratios I rode it, and it works 
great.  You might shift up front a bit more than with a 36 or 38t 
bigger ring (or 28t small)-   BUT for me, commuting on a quickbeam 30 miles 
R/T fairly regularly (and loving it)... being able to shift while 
pedaling(!) is planted firmly in perspective, and furthermore, I just got 
much better at front shifts on the geared bikes.

Matt


On Thursday, August 22, 2013 5:08:36 PM UTC-4, Liesl wrote:

 Here's some fun news!  I talked with Mark at Riv and there seems to be a 
 groovy design solution to having a really small frame (in the 50cm range) 
 with a diagatube!  When last you tuned in (if you tuned in at all), you 
 might recall (or might not) that Grant said that getting a diagatube, lugs, 
 and clearance for 55mm tires and fenders was like trying to get 4 balls 
 into 3 and a half holes.  Here's how it's likely to go:  26 wheels 
 (already knew that) and—

 —*double* small diameter old school Mixte-style diagatubes that are 
 mitered and fillet brazed somewhere about the head tube. Where it's brazed 
 to will be Mark Nobilette's choice; could be to the top tube, could be to 
 the head tube, could be to the bottom tube.  Mark was quite excited as he 
 described it.  It would be truly totally custom.

 Current thinking on the build kit is as follows:
 58 Boscos, Meisha's Cork (normal), Paul Thumbies + Shimano BarEnds, brake 
 levers to be determined, Tange/IRD NeedL BlastR Roller Drive Headset

 Phil Rivy Hub - Rivy 32h Rear Hub, New SON 28 32H Front Hub, 26 
 Aeroheat Rims, Schwalbe Big Bens

 Sugino XD2 wide/low double Crank 40t x 26t, VP Thin Gripster pedals

 Brooks Champion Flyer select, Paul Tall and Handsome seatpost

 As always, your thoughts are welcomed!


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[RBW] Re: Recommendations for Saddle Bag--mostly for books

[Matt Beebe]

One other point about the large saddlesack:   if you use it with a QR 
saddlebag mount, it is super easy to take on and off the bike.   In fact, 
I'd put it up against anything in terms of ease of attachment/removal.



On Friday, August 23, 2013 9:55:20 AM UTC-4, WETH wrote:

 Tom, 
 Short Answer: another vote for a large Saddlesack. 
 Long Answer: be sure to think through your commuting process.  From 
 personal experience, I transitioned from panniers to a large Saxdlesack 
 because of my personal routine and preferences.  I commute several days a 
 week by bike and the other days by car or bus.  When I started bike 
 commuting, I liked panniers for the ease of attaching and removal from 
 bike.  Over time, though, I found transferring things from panniers to a 
 briefcase or a backpack tedious on the days I drove or took the bus.  (i am 
 sure there are panniers that convert to backpacks or briefcases to allow 
 easier transport off the bike.) The large Saddlesack is spacious enough to 
 hold my briefcase and/or backpack.  This keeps life more simple and 
 minimizes the likelihood I forget something in a bag at home.  The downside 
 to the large Saddlesack is that it is not as easy to switch it between 
 bikes as with a set of panniers.  Finally, a more permanently attach 
 Saddlesack might bring unwanted attention to your bike depending on where 
 you have to secure it at school. 
 All the best, 
 Erl

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[RBW] Re: Recommendations for Saddle Bag--mostly for books

[Matt Beebe]

I use a QR with the large saddlesack, but do not secure the bag to the 
rack.It just floats on top, never had any problems even riding off road 
this way.



On Friday, August 23, 2013 4:52:52 PM UTC-4, Jim wrote:

 Another vote for saddlesacks.  I have a large, in which I can stuff books, 
 papers and a laptop for commuting between home, work and a course I'm 
 teaching at the university.  
  
 One question:  Does anyone use the quick release with a large saddlesack?  
 If so, do you have a good method for quick release of the sack from the 
 rack?  I'm thinking to just run a strap through it and the rack, but a bit 
 of a fiddle to get on and off.  Currently I have it zip tied to the rack.
 TIA
  
 Jim in Boulder

 On Thursday, August 22, 2013 7:40:35 PM UTC-6, Tom Goodmann wrote:

 With a school year just about underway, I'm late to ask; looking for 
 recommendations for a saddle bag--likely more flat than square--for 
 ferrying books  a notebook pc on a Sam or a Heron Touring.  Each has a 
 rear rack too, so panniers are another way to go, of course, but my first 
 thought is for a saddle bag-style sort of brief case (behind a B-17, yup). 
 Suggestions appreciated.  --Tom in Miami



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[RBW] Re: Happy New Bike Day (Orange Quickbeam Edition)!

[Matt Beebe]

Nice score. I feel the same way as Pudge; the QB is a special bike, one 
you just keep going back to.



On Thursday, August 22, 2013 10:43:24 AM UTC-4, cyclot...@gmail.com wrote:

 I wasn't planning on getting a new bike, but sometimes these things 
 just can't be avoided! When a 60cm Quickbeam recently was offered for 
 sale here by Collin, I pretty much had to make it work out! And 
 everything came together in an amazing fashion! I took a day or so 
 dithering about it, but was able to still buy it. For transportation 
 from Walnut Creek to Redlands, I was able to press Jim W into service. 
 He was coming back down south after spending several weeks in the Bay 
 Area and was happy to help a guy out! The good people at Rivendell 
 even lent some storage space to the cause and let Collin drop it off 
 there until Jim could get by to pick it up. A lot of good people 
 helped make this happen, and I'm ecstatic to have a new bike! 

 And the first (short) ride! 
 http://www.flickr.com/photos/cyclotourist/9568141294/in/photostream/ 

 Happy New Bike Day! 
 -- 
 Cheers, 
 David 

 it isn't a contest. Just enjoy the ride. - Seth Vidal 


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[RBW] Re: 56 cm Heron PBH

[Matt Beebe]

Your best bet is to call Rivendell for advice, I'm sure they will help you 
out and they know their stuff cold.

Matt



On Saturday, August 17, 2013 1:57:54 PM UTC-4, Dick Combs wrote:

 Anybody tell me the recommended PBH range for a 56 cm Heron
 Thanks

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[RBW] Re: 56 cm Heron PBH

[Matt Beebe]

My guess would be somewhere in the neighborhood of 81-83cm though.But 
call Riv.

Matt


On Saturday, August 17, 2013 1:57:54 PM UTC-4, Dick Combs wrote:

 Anybody tell me the recommended PBH range for a 56 cm Heron
 Thanks

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Re: [RBW] Re: Opniel knives

[Matt Beebe]

On Monday, August 19, 2013 4:03:58 PM UTC-4, Rex Kerr wrote:

 On Wed, Aug 14, 2013 at 2:18 PM, Deacon Patrick lamon...@mac.comjavascript:
  wrote:

 Carbon blades are the only reason to get Opinel knives that I can see, 
 other than good value for a stainless blade. Carbon holds a sharper edge 
 than stainless, but requires actual care (oiling as needed) to prevent rust.


 Only reason?  I bought my Opinel (discovered them a few years ago) because 
 they are SHARP, and easy to keep that way, cheap, good blade lock, 
 lightweight, don't look like a military grade weapon (what's with knives 
 these days?), and classic.  



Tell it brother.   I too despise that cheesy faux military/weapon look most 
pocket knives seem to have taken on in the past decade or so.   I blame it 
on movies and TV.   I keep an Opinel folding saw in my camping panniers and 
it's the bees knees.   That or a pocket chainsaw and a fixed blade can do 
serious work and keep you warm (only use them on dead wood of course).   
I'd be buying a hatchet from Riv right now but already have one which is 
more than enough (they're not like bikes :)

When it comes to little folding knives I do like my little spyderco 
knife.   It's only about as big as my thumb, fits in my jeans coin pocket 
and opens with one hand.It seems at least half the knives spyderco 
makes are of the dumb weapon variety, but the little one I have is fairly 
innocuous and frequently useful.


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[RBW] Re: That Betty Foy is some bicycle!

[Matt Beebe]

On Monday, August 19, 2013 3:04:27 PM UTC-4, Cecily Walker wrote:

 One of the things I'm discovering with each passing day is how my 
 previously held ideas about what made a bicycle comfortable are being 
 smashed to bits by the Betty Foy. 


This pretty much sums up the Rivendell experience.I have struggled for 
a long time with fit and position on bicycles, despite riding from a very 
young age.   The design and fit of Rivendells turned riding into something 
entirely new for me.

It's great to hear you are adjusting to the Betty Foy's character after 
riding Dutch bikes for so long.I believe it only gets better from here.

Matt
 

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Re: [RBW] Re: Opniel knives

[Matt Beebe]

On Wednesday, August 14, 2013 5:25:00 PM UTC-4, Ron Mc wrote:

 Patrick, the most useful knife I've ever handled (own 3 permanently 
 clipped in bags) is the Spyderco Native


I have a small spyderco (don't remember what the model is called) that I've 
carried in my jeans watch pocket for I don't know how long.It's 
stainless 'VG-10' steel, but sharpens easily and holds an edge well.
What I really like about it is the hole on the blade that allows you to 
open with one hand-  more often than not I am holding the thing I want to 
use the knife on in my other hand.

Matt

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[RBW] Re: What do Rivendell riders wear for cycling shorts for long rides?

[Matt Beebe]

I wear regular underwear and whatever pants for anything under 50 miles, 
and will think it through a bit more if I'm going for 80+.   I did a 
3.5 month tour using MUSA shorts (and a pair of pants too) and a mix of 
wool boxer briefs and regular cotton boxer briefs. I was averaging 70 
miles a day, with my longest days in the 135 mile range, and was using a 
Brooks B17 saddle, fairly broken-in.I'd use the exact same equipment if 
I were to do it again.

Matt



On Tuesday, August 13, 2013 11:26:54 PM UTC-4, Michael wrote:

 What do you Rivendell riders wear on long rides? Centuries, metric or 
 English, etc.
  
 I know there is a general anti-padded-shorts vibe that emanates from 
 Walnut Creek.
  
 But I just cannot go more than 20 miles in regular pants without 
 sweat-soaked undergarments just squeaking away against my flesh like a 
 squeegee. Ouch!!
  
 I use LBS padded shorts for long rides but looking for something with a 
 thicker pad and maybe bigger in the back for my upright Alba riding 
 posture, since that puts more sitting area on the rear of the rear, so to 
 speak.
  
 Thanks for any advice.


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[RBW] Re: Cracked Ramboullet

[Matt Beebe]

Peter, you hit the nail on the head!To Chris:   be patient, and I bet 
you'll be delighted with your newly repaired and painted frame.   Be sure 
to post photos when you get your frame back, and remember, the folks at 
Rivendell are all great people or they wouldn't be working there. They 
are blowing peoples' minds, creating/reviving bicycle experiences daily, 
but also putting out fires daily, as such are the perils of being a small 
shop.  Similarly, whether your frame was repaired by Bernie Mikkelsen 
or Steve Rex, you are extremely fortunate.To me, the fact that 
Rivendell is such a small shop makes it even more amazing that they are 
able to take such good care of their demanding customers-  not just any 
customers, but people with uncommon bicycle priorities, so to speak.  

Matt


On Monday, August 12, 2013 5:03:45 PM UTC-4, pb wrote:

 Chris,
  
 I can be as impatient as the next fellow, probably more so, but I'd point 
 out that Rivendell is not in the business of repairing frames.  This task 
 is out of the normal order of things for them, they are at the mercy of two 
 subcontractors who each have their own pipeline of work and their own 
 priorities, and they are losing money on the whole deal.
  
 Grant didn't respond personally after your complaint simply because he 
 took the complaint, flipped it to one of his employees, and told the 
 employee to take care of you.  That process produced results with which you 
 should be, IMO, happy, and for which you should be, IMO, grateful.  It may 
 be a small company, but Grant probably works 50 or 60 hours a week - or 
 more -- taking care of everything he normally has to take care of, and at 
 7:30 at night when he's been there for eleven hours he wants to go home to 
 his family.  In my experience, folks work longer hours at small companies 
 than at large ones.  
  
 I'm sympathetic to your frustration, I'm sympathetic to your missing your 
 bike, and I'm sympathetic to your impatience, but I'm not sympathetic to 
 your complaining about this process, either publicly or directly to 
 Rivendell.  Be grateful.  You used to have a $2000 frame (speaking 
 approximately, and in today's dollars) which ten years later broke and was 
 then worth next to nothing, and they are going to hand you back a nice, 
 shiny, new(-ish) $2000 frame.  Smile, be grateful, count your blessings.
  
 If it's a 60, and if they're restoring it to orange, I'd be pleased to 
 take it off your hands.  :-)
  
 ~peter 
   
  
  
  


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[RBW] Re: Brooks Flyer quick fix please

[Matt Beebe]

If I were you, I'd probably just nurse it through.  If the problem 
continues maybe look into the Lon Haldeman break-in method, though it's too 
late to do it now before your ride this weekend, because you need at least 
a couple of days to complete the process.   I've never had to use this 
method myself, but have heard good things about it and, after all, it's 
recommended by Lon 
Haldemanhttp://www.raceacrossamerica.org/raam/raam2.php?N_webcat_id=55
.

Matt


On Friday, August 9, 2013 8:54:12 PM UTC-4, Michael wrote:

 Sit bone pain advice needed:
  
 Gotta Brooks Flyer that I love on my Sam and it is breaking in on the 
 right side, but no detent on the left side yet.
  
 My left sit bone hurt bad during and after my last training ride last 
 weekend and for a couplea days after. This weekend I am on schedule for a 
 30-35 mile ride.
  
 Anything I can do to protect the left sit bone?
 Wear two pairs of cycling shorts this ride to nurse it through?
 What do you all do in this situation?


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[RBW] Re: Talk about beausage!

[Matt Beebe]

Fascinating!   The photo of the guy moving camp certainly gives modern 
bike packing a run for the money. And the stories.. how about the guy 
who killed a 5 and a half foot snake that had just slithered across his 
face while he slept!

I also notice, the concept of stand-over clearance seems to not have 
existed back then.Didn't trouble those guys apparently.   Bicycles had 
just replaced the horse after all.


Matt



On Thursday, August 8, 2013 4:07:31 PM UTC-4, futch wrote:


 http://veloaficionado.com/australias-bicycle-riding-shearers-of-the-early-twentieth-century/


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[RBW] Re: Talk about beausage!

[Matt Beebe]

I just mean compared to some modern bikepacking setups, e.g.:
http://bikeshopgirl.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/06/bikepacking1.jpeg

Matt

On Friday, August 9, 2013 7:17:54 PM UTC-4, Deacon Patrick wrote:

 the concept of stand-over clearance seems to not have existed back 
 then.

 Which photo gives you that idea? They all look in the ball park, given 
 baggy pants and camera angles.

 With abandon,
 Patrick

 On Friday, August 9, 2013 5:09:45 PM UTC-6, Matt Beebe wrote:

 Fascinating!   The photo of the guy moving camp certainly gives modern 
 bike packing a run for the money. And the stories.. how about the guy 
 who killed a 5 and a half foot snake that had just slithered across his 
 face while he slept!

 I also notice, the concept of stand-over clearance seems to not have 
 existed back then.Didn't trouble those guys apparently.   Bicycles had 
 just replaced the horse after all.


 Matt



 On Thursday, August 8, 2013 4:07:31 PM UTC-4, futch wrote:


 http://veloaficionado.com/australias-bicycle-riding-shearers-of-the-early-twentieth-century/



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[RBW] Re: The irony of things: bass-ackward fender mismatch.

[Matt Beebe]

Nice setup and thanks for posting a photo.   It looks like it wouldn't 
hurt to add a little something, maybe a piece of plastic water bottle, to 
the back of the rear fender.From the photo it looks like you might get 
some back spray the way it is.

Matt



On Wednesday, August 7, 2013 7:26:09 PM UTC-4, Patrick Moore wrote:

 My Ram, 700CX30, has 30mm 559 SKS's, or at least they are damned short 
 and the bend is tighter than right; otoh, the 559 '03 has 700CX35 PB 
 fenders because the SKS's were to narrow for the Kojaks. The SKS's 
 barely clear the Parigi Roubaix. 

 The PBs wrap well around the 559 wheels and I don't need a flap; the 
 bend is OK. The SKSs are way short in front, so require a long flap; 
 and in the rear, it barely extends beyond the back end of the Fly 
 rack. 

 Still, better than buying a second pair of fenders for the Ram this 
 year, since Monsoon is almost over; 

 -- 
 RESUMES THAT GET YOU NOTICED! 
 Certified Resume Writer 
 http://resumespecialties.com/index.html 
 patric...@resumespecialties.com javascript: 
 http://www.linkedin.com/in/patrickmooreresumespec/ 

 Albuquerque, NM 


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[RBW] Re: PETA for Fat Tired Bikes!

[Matt Beebe]

I hope the little guy makes it too, and fat soft tires could only have 
helped!Sometimes I make 'psst-psst' noises when I see the little 
critters up ahead to scare them away (though I must seem pretty strange to 
bystanders).   Anyway the squirrels generally have surprisingly good 
hearing and go darting off to safety.

Matt


On Thursday, August 8, 2013 10:10:12 AM UTC-4, Tony DeFilippo wrote:

 The subject popped into my head a moment after I ran over a squirell this 
 morning on my 650b x 42mm hetres and I saw him scamper off, and up a 
 tree... can't say he's completely ok, but it looks like he had a decent 
 shot.  First time I've actually hit a critter on the bike, I've heard of a 
 friend taking a rabbit into the spokes of his wheel with predictably 
 unpleasant results, but always managed to avoid them myself.  

 On a rider safety angle... I can report that squirrel-sized trail debri 
 doesn't even redirect my bike when rolling at about 14-15mph!

 Tony



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Re: [RBW] Re: Greetings! - 64cm Atlantis?

[Matt Beebe]

Awesome score Tony.Like others have said a trade for a 61 could 
probably be found without much trouble, but then again the Atlantis has a 
low BB and a slacker ST angle, so even with fat tires you might end up 
fitting fine on it.   Either way you are definitely in the ballpark so 
enjoy!

On Sunday, August 4, 2013 11:44:52 PM UTC-4, Tony DeFilippo wrote:


 Time to crash so I can make my 0630 ride-to-coffee on time.


I like your priorities :D

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[RBW] Re: Voiding the un-warranty

[Matt Beebe]

When it comes to warranty issues, technically that's known as just riding 
along, I'm sure...




On Monday, August 5, 2013 3:12:17 PM UTC-4, Andy Smitty Schmidt wrote:

 AHH shenanigans... http://www.flickr.com/photos/15966859@N07/9443416529/

 --Smitty


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Re: [RBW] Bike Choice

[Matt Beebe]

Rex, I'm dig the chronology/evolution of your bikes over the years on 
flickr.You can see where you began homing in on good fit with the 
Nishiki, then the 520 (awesome touring and camping pics!), and finally 
arrived at a perfect fit on the AHH.  Nice Schwinn Voyageur too.


On Friday, August 2, 2013 5:44:29 PM UTC-4, Rex Kerr wrote:

 I suspect that most of us have had bad experiences when we first started 
 out.

 In my university student days I used to ride a cheap department store 
 bike.  I rode it a lot of miles and did all of the maintenance myself, 
 though still didn't know much about bikes, just figuring it out as I went. 
  I remember once taking it into a small bike shop to ask for new bottom 
 bracket bearings so that I could overhaul the one piece crank.  The guy 
 working there gave me a very long lecture about how it was a piece of junk, 
 wasn't worth riding, couldn't be overhauled, and -- wait... you're planning 
 to use automotive grease in those bearings?  No, no, no!  You want this 
 super expensive lithium bike specific grease!  He didn't believe me that 
 I'd ridden it as far as 70 miles in a single day and it worked OK for me at 
 the time.  I finally overhauled it (with cheap automotive grease) and 
 continued to ride it for many years.

 I finally decided one day (once I had a real job) to get a nice bike.  It 
 was kind of a whim... just stopped in at a shop that had signs saying they 
 were having a sale.  I was looking at the cheap hybrid bikes and was 
 looking at a 22 frame model, but the guy working there kept steering me to 
 the 20 frame.  I have no idea why, especially considering I'm a hair under 
 6'4.  I took his advice (what did I know? I'd been riding 
 one-size-fits-few bikes from KMart) and bought the 20 frame.  While it was 
 a big mistake and I now know that even the 22 was too small, it did get me 
 into cyling -- big time!  I got rather excited about it!  Over the next few 
 years I bought an extra long seatpost, new handlebars with more reach, 
 etc... 

 Attempts to make it fit:  http://www.flickr.com/photos/rexkerr/6639222403/
 What the heck, turn it into a MTB:  
 http://www.flickr.com/photos/rexkerr/6639161251/

 A few years later I found a really nice riding but much older Peugeot road 
 bike.  It rode GREAT and fit me really well (it was a BIG ONE), but the 
 cottered crank didn't go around straight (a common problem with them).  I 
 took it to the same shop, and he basically convinced me to junk the bike. 
  Oh, how mad I am about that now!  Now I'd just stick a new french threaded 
 cartridge BB in it for $20 or so and some new/used low end cranks and have 
 it riding like a dream!

 So... without his help, I did find a much larger low end 62cm Nishiki at 
 Salvation Army for $25... I then moved all of the running gear from the 
 bike he'd sold me over to the Nishiki and rode it for a long time as my 
 primary bike!  Again, still way too small, but over time I learned about 
 Nitto Technomic stems and put in a longer seatpost, and it fit OK -- in 
 fact, I still ride it as my beater bike when I'll be leaving it locked up 
 somewhere or abusing it.  It rides like a dream and I still like it to this 
 day!

 http://www.flickr.com/photos/rexkerr/8425223847/

 During this timeframe I discovered Rivendell and was influenced very much 
 by them and others who had similar ideas about bike fit and design and 
 discovered that it completely agreed with what I was discovering on my own, 
 yet I still wanted a go fast bike. So, I started again... new shop. 
  Everybody kept telling me you don't want a road bike, you want a mountain 
 bike!  This was during a time around the year 2000 when the road bike was 
 nearly extinct.  (hard to believe now)  Anyhow, I managed to find a shop 
 that had a few road bikes, and they put me on a Specialized Allez 
 (traditional horizontal TT geometry) w/ 60 cm frame!  Again, after years of 
 trying to make it fit, I finally realized why it would never work.  Another 
 shop that was known to specialize in fit spent a lot of time with me trying 
 to make it work before just telling me that if I ever wanted a bike that 
 fit well, I'd have to go full custom.

 ...many more bikes in between...

 I now know that I best fit on a bike with traditional geometry and a frame 
 size between 67 and 69 cm.   I can fit something smaller but I know that 
 I'm making a compromise.  For example, I recently upgraded my small for its 
 size Trek 520 by replacing the frame with a newly available 64cm Surly LHT 
 frame, which feel much bigger for any given size -- knowing that it's still 
 not perfect, but it's the biggest off the shelf bike that anybody sells.

 63 cm Trek 520 still too small:  
 http://www.flickr.com/photos/rexkerr/6638127641/

 I'm very happy with my 67 A Homer Hilsen, though still wonder sometimes if 
 I should have held out and tried to find a way to test ride a 69 before 
 making my final decision.  

 AHH fits well:  

Re: [RBW] Re: Bike Choice

[Matt Beebe]

On Friday, August 2, 2013 11:33:26 AM UTC-4, Anne Paulson wrote:

 The key to getting bikes accepted as a normal mode of transportation 
 is getting women to ride. As long as bike commuting is something done 
 predominantly by young men, it is seen as something for crazy 
 daredevils, not something standard and usual. But when young women 
 start riding to work in normal work clothes, and when young mothers 
 start hauling their kids around on bikes as a matter of course, then 
 cycling becomes the way some people get around, a way that we all have 
 to allow for when doing urban and suburban transportation planning. 



100% agree with this. In my area more and more women are riding bikes, 
and that is the key.  You also see a lot more men wearing regular clothes 
out on the road.I feel like thanking people sometimes because it is so 
heartening to see.  Anyway it is a good sign.




 

 So go chicas! 

  
  Especially exciting to me is the rise of the urban female commuter. The 
 trend is to use your bike and look darling doing it. I can get on board 
 with that! 

 -- 
 -- Anne Paulson 

 It isn't a contest. Enjoy the ride. 


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Re: [RBW] Re: Bike Fitting - A Mine Field

[Matt Beebe]

It's not actually clear which frames on the current geometry chart show the 
effective rather than actual TT lengths. I know for example that the 
Hunqapillar TT lengths listed are definitely not effective length though, I 
don't even think they are actual length.

Matt



On Thursday, August 1, 2013 1:29:18 AM UTC-4, James Warren wrote:

 To David Craig's question: no, for Atlantis and AHH, the TT listings are 
 actual, not effective. So with those two, the effective TT is a bit longer, 
 but the effect is relatively small due to low angles. 

 But yes it's true that the expanded frames (6 degree upslope ones) only 
 list the effective TT, not actual. 

 If you like geometry and trigonometry, I figured our how to calculate 
 effective TT length. If you're interested, send me a private message. 

 -Jim W. 


 Sent from my iPhone 

 On Jul 31, 2013, at 4:23 PM, David Craig neritic...@gmail.comjavascript: 
 wrote: 

  Point taken, Matt. 
  
  On the topic of tt's, I seem to recall reading in something from RBW 
 that they list only the effective tt on the geometry charts. Is that true? 
 If so, does it apply to the Atlantis as well as the bikes with more angle 
 to the tt (Hilborne).? 
  
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Re: [RBW] Re: Bike Fitting - A Mine Field

[Matt Beebe]

Hi Jim, I measured a 58 and and a 62, though my measurements may have been 
off by half a centimeter give or take.The 58 seems to have a 61cm 
actual TT length, and the 62 has a 63cm actual TT length.Doing some 
trigonometry the 58 Hunq has about a 63cm effective TT and the 62 has about 
a 65cm ETT.   

Also there is a post here (
https://groups.google.com/d/msg/rbw-owners-bunch/Z-4DozId6xI/9kcJ95rY5F0J) 
where William confirmed with Keven that the numbers had changed after the 
chart was made.

Matt



On Thursday, August 1, 2013 10:22:50 AM UTC-4, James Warren wrote:

 The following frames do not have expanded geometry: Atlantis, AHH, Roadeo.

 The following do: Hillborne, Hunqapillar, Bombadil, San Marcos, Betty Foy

 The expanded ones are identified in the chart by their 6 degree toptube 
 slope (if they have a TT.) Any in that category should be showing just 
 effective TT length. If the Hunqapillar is not showing the true effective 
 TT number, then either geometry was changed without notice (since it is 
 subject to that), there is a misprint, or there is some other error.

 Matt, how do you know that the Hunqapillar's listed length is not the real 
 effective TT? Did you measure one? I've never done that on a sloping frame. 
 I guess that would be simple to do. Just curious, how did you do it? (I 
 might try a rigid meter stick held horizontal and a bubble level on top of 
 the stick, with the stick's zero positioned at the seat post center.)

 -Jim W.

 Sent from my iPhone

 On Aug 1, 2013, at 12:45 AM, Matt Beebe matthi...@gmail.com javascript: 
 wrote:

 It's not actually clear which frames on the current geometry chart show 
 the effective rather than actual TT lengths. I know for example that 
 the Hunqapillar TT lengths listed are definitely not effective length 
 though, I don't even think they are actual length.

 Matt



 On Thursday, August 1, 2013 1:29:18 AM UTC-4, James Warren wrote:

 To David Craig's question: no, for Atlantis and AHH, the TT listings are 
 actual, not effective. So with those two, the effective TT is a bit longer, 
 but the effect is relatively small due to low angles. 

 But yes it's true that the expanded frames (6 degree upslope ones) only 
 list the effective TT, not actual. 

 If you like geometry and trigonometry, I figured our how to calculate 
 effective TT length. If you're interested, send me a private message. 

 -Jim W. 


 Sent from my iPhone 

 On Jul 31, 2013, at 4:23 PM, David Craig neritic...@gmail.com wrote: 

  Point taken, Matt. 
  
  On the topic of tt's, I seem to recall reading in something from RBW 
 that they list only the effective tt on the geometry charts. Is that true? 
 If so, does it apply to the Atlantis as well as the bikes with more angle 
 to the tt (Hilborne).? 
  
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[RBW] Re: Rivs on the Great Divide, was Jamboree

[Matt Beebe]

I have ridden the northern part of the divide, using 40mm tires fully 
loaded on a regular touring bike, and I would definitely not hesitate to do 
it on an Atlantis.Parts of it were gnarly, but they were not that long 
and were actually kind of fun.I found that those washboard roads go 
from nightmare to completely doable if you drop your tire pressure to 
juuust the right amount.   It was really surprising what a difference it 
makes.


On Thursday, August 1, 2013 12:21:33 PM UTC-4, Anne Paulson wrote:

 I've been thinking about riding the Great Divide. But I'd need a lot 
 of persuading to know why I would want to use one of my Atlanti 
 instead of a bike with a front suspension and disk brakes. I've heard 
 a lot about washboards; would a big soft tire really be enough 
 cushioning? 

 On Wed, Jul 31, 2013 at 7:31 PM, Jim M. math...@gmail.com javascript: 
 wrote: 
  How about a Riv tour down the Great Divide bike route? Mixed terrain, 
  self-supported, and a rider could choose a particular part or the whole 
  route. 



 -- 
 -- Anne Paulson 

 It isn't a contest. Enjoy the ride. 


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[RBW] Re: Custom Paint: Army Green or Tuxedo Black?

[Matt Beebe]

He sent my samples back unharmed, so yeah I think your shirt will be fine! 
Just send him an envelope with your return address on it.  Also, 
you'll probably talk to him on the phone in the meantime, so just let him 
know your shirt is important to you. 

Matt

On Tuesday, July 30, 2013 6:09:01 PM UTC-4, Liesl wrote:

 On Tuesday, July 30, 2013 4:52:27 PM UTC-5, Matt Beebe wrote:

 Joe Bell can definitely match a color if you send him a sample. I did 
 this when my custom frame was ready to be painted.   He told me he'd do his 
 best to match the color, but then asked me to be rigidly flexible in my 
 expectations, then proceeded to do an unbelievably awesome job.The 
 color was spot on and looks way better than I could've imagined.


 I can handle being rigidly flexible–but can I trust Joe with my vintage 
 wool BSA shirt?  That is the question! 


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[RBW] Re: Custom Paint: Army Green or Tuxedo Black?

[Matt Beebe]

Just wanted to add that another option is to use a Pantone color, Joe Bell 
will let you do that too.So if you can find one that matches your shirt 
could go that route. 

Matt


On Tuesday, July 30, 2013 6:09:01 PM UTC-4, Liesl wrote:

 On Tuesday, July 30, 2013 4:52:27 PM UTC-5, Matt Beebe wrote:

 Joe Bell can definitely match a color if you send him a sample. I did 
 this when my custom frame was ready to be painted.   He told me he'd do his 
 best to match the color, but then asked me to be rigidly flexible in my 
 expectations, then proceeded to do an unbelievably awesome job.The 
 color was spot on and looks way better than I could've imagined.


 I can handle being rigidly flexible–but can I trust Joe with my vintage 
 wool BSA shirt?  That is the question! 


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[RBW] Re: Bike Fitting - A Mine Field

[Matt Beebe]

Buying a Surly using the Riv sizing guideline apples-to-apples is quite 
likely to result in a bike that's on the too-big side. 

I could see that if you aimed for a fistful of seatpost on a Karate-Monkey, 
you'd end up with a bike that is too big.But it seems the Cross-check 
and LHT have similar geometries to say a Quickbeam or Atlantis, and could 
be sized using the basic Rivendell guidelines of seat-height minus 17cm or 
so.In my experience, they could, and it would not result in a bike that 
is too big at all.


On Wednesday, July 31, 2013 8:17:53 AM UTC-4, Jim Thill - Hiawatha Cyclery 
wrote:

 All Cross-checks in all sizes come out of the box with 300 mm steerers. 
 With a 62 cm frame, there is nothing to cut off because the head tube is 
 long enough to allow a stem and maybe an inch or two of spacers. The old 
 Surly warranty stipulated that stem plus spacers shouldn't exceed 100 mm, 
 but last year they changed that, and now they say there is no limit on 
 steerer length. But this is important: with threaded steerers, the size of 
 the frame determines how high you can get the bars. If you want high bars, 
 get a big frame. This is the Rivendell way. This advice is completely 
 worthless with threadless steerers like Surly uses, because all sizes can 
 have the same handlebar height if you don't cut the steerer. So a 52 cm 
 frame can theoretically fit exactly the same as a 58 cm frame if the stem 
 length is long enough to make up the difference. Buying a Surly using the 
 Riv sizing guideline apples-to-apples is quite likely to result in a bike 
 that's on the too-big side. 

 I will tell you that uncut steerers with a lot of spacers tend to get a 
 lot of negative commentary. Our Surly floor bikes usually sport this 
 feature, and everyday somebody asks me to justify it or comments that they 
 don't like the look. Yet of the bikes that sell, only a small fraction come 
 back to have the steerer shortened.


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[RBW] Re: Bike Fitting - A Mine Field

[Matt Beebe]

On Wednesday, July 31, 2013 4:12:22 PM UTC-4, Jim Thill - Hiawatha Cyclery 
wrote:

 What constitutes a fistful, and why does such an arbitrary dimension 
 lead us around by the short hairs? Can't we go 2 cm either way and still 
 have an approximate fistful?  I would say that in general, with Long Haul 
 Truckers and Cross-checks, go one size down from the Riv recommendation 
 simply because the way the two brands measure frame size is slightly 
 different. 



I dunno  I guess fistful is what you end up with for seatpost 
exposure when you subtract ~17cm from your saddle height and get your frame 
size, since that is what Rivendell/Grant 
recommendshttp://www.rivbike.com/kb_results.asp?ID=41, 
a fistful, and that is the way he recommends arriving at it.I'm sure 
you could go 2cm either way under this system, but this post began about a 
guy being sold a frame that was 4cm too small for him by his own 
estimation, and that of his friend (the OP, Ian). He wanted a 62, and 
the shop was adamant that he should ride a 58.In this case I'd guess 
Grant's and Ian's sizing system/recommendation have served him well.

Also, Surly measures their Crosscheck and LHT frame sizes *exactly* the 
same way Rivendell measures theirs:   Center-to-top (i.e., top of TT).
My better half owns one of the early crosschecks which is sitting in our 
living room, and this is how it's measured/sized.


You'll still have an approximate fistful (depending on the size of your 
 fist), and the bike will better approximate the fit of the recommended Riv 
 size.  


The geometries of the 58cm LHT and 58cm Atlantis are virtually identical, 
so I'd guess if you wanted your LHT to fit approximately like an Atlantis 
(as the Riv chart recommends sizing it), you'd couldn't get any closer than 
by purchasing the same size.Sure the BB is spec'd at 2mm higher on the 
LHT http://surlybikes.com/bikes/disc_trucker/geometry, with a 78mm drop 
rather than 80mm of the Riv, but I don't reckon that makes an appreciable 
difference in how big the bike feels.

Matt


If you measure a LHT the same way you measure an Atlantis, a 56 LHT is more 
 equivalent to a 58 cm Atlantis. I had a 58 Atlantis for years, but a 58 
 Trucker felt big to me.

 On Wednesday, July 31, 2013 7:38:53 AM UTC-5, Matt Beebe wrote:

 Buying a Surly using the Riv sizing guideline apples-to-apples is quite 
 likely to result in a bike that's on the too-big side. 

 I could see that if you aimed for a fistful of seatpost on a 
 Karate-Monkey, you'd end up with a bike that is too big.But it seems 
 the Cross-check and LHT have similar geometries to say a Quickbeam or 
 Atlantis, and could be sized using the basic Rivendell guidelines of 
 seat-height minus 17cm or so.In my experience, they could, and it would 
 not result in a bike that is too big at all.


 On Wednesday, July 31, 2013 8:17:53 AM UTC-4, Jim Thill - Hiawatha 
 Cyclery wrote:

 All Cross-checks in all sizes come out of the box with 300 mm steerers. 
 With a 62 cm frame, there is nothing to cut off because the head tube is 
 long enough to allow a stem and maybe an inch or two of spacers. The old 
 Surly warranty stipulated that stem plus spacers shouldn't exceed 100 mm, 
 but last year they changed that, and now they say there is no limit on 
 steerer length. But this is important: with threaded steerers, the size of 
 the frame determines how high you can get the bars. If you want high bars, 
 get a big frame. This is the Rivendell way. This advice is completely 
 worthless with threadless steerers like Surly uses, because all sizes can 
 have the same handlebar height if you don't cut the steerer. So a 52 cm 
 frame can theoretically fit exactly the same as a 58 cm frame if the stem 
 length is long enough to make up the difference. Buying a Surly using the 
 Riv sizing guideline apples-to-apples is quite likely to result in a bike 
 that's on the too-big side. 

 I will tell you that uncut steerers with a lot of spacers tend to get a 
 lot of negative commentary. Our Surly floor bikes usually sport this 
 feature, and everyday somebody asks me to justify it or comments that they 
 don't like the look. Yet of the bikes that sell, only a small fraction come 
 back to have the steerer shortened.



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[RBW] Re: Bike Fitting - A Mine Field

[Matt Beebe]

On Wednesday, July 31, 2013 5:21:24 PM UTC-4, David Craig wrote:

 Matt:

 Also, Surly measures their Crosscheck and LHT frame sizes *exactly* the 
 same way Rivendell measures theirs:   Center-to-top (i.e., top of TT).
 My better half owns one of the early crosschecks which is sitting in our 
 living room, and this is how it's measured/sized.

 From the Riv site:

 Sizing Rivendells (the bikes we design) -- frame sizes measured center of 
 crank to top of seat tube
 *
 *
 Not saying you didn't see what you saw, but I just measured my AHH and 
 it's 65 cm at the top of the seat tube.



Dave, the top of the seat tube on a Riv corresponds to the top of the 
top-tube, because their frames are lugged, and as such there is no 
extension of seat-tube above the top-tube.The Surly LHT and CC models 
are sized exactly the same way that Riv does their sizes, even though they *
do* have that extension (an artifact of their tig-welded joinery).They 
do not include the extension of ST beyond the TT, but measure from the 
center of the BB to the top of the TT, just as Riv does.

Matt

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[RBW] Re: Sudden Onset Bike Purchase

[Matt Beebe]

Wow, what a great score!You'd have been nuts to pass it up, the albas 
and couplers cinching it like that.




On Monday, July 29, 2013 11:03:13 PM UTC-4, Sergio wrote:

 Hello! I'm writing to introduce myself as a new (used) Rivendell Atlantis 
 owner. It wasn't a planned event and certainly wasn't budgeted, but this is 
 the kind of trouble you get yourself into when you hang with Liesl. 


 Long story short: 

 I bought Steve's bike off the RBW Owners Bunch group. Black Atlantis with 
 SS couplers and generally really nice parts. I'm super psyched.


 Short story long:

 Following a round-town and backyard S240 we got to chatting about my dream 
 bike, a Rivendell Atlantis. We talked about some details and bar-type (I 
 wanted to switch up to Albas from the Noodles I had on my current bike). 
 Extra fantasy-part bonus would be SS couplers. It was an innocent enough 
 conversation, in which I clearly stated that I didn't have the funds set 
 aside and that it was a long-term dream--5 to 10 year goal. Well, a few 
 hours after we parted ways I looked to my phone and saw: missed call, voice 
 mail, 2 x texts. All from Liesl. I cringed because I knew it could only 
 mean one thing. Sure enough, she just spotted the deal of the century on 
 the group. It was even set up with Albas and had SS couplers. Next thing I 
 know, I'm looking it up. Next next thing I know I'm writing an email. Then 
 I'm on the phone with Steve. Then I've purchased and am eagerly 
 anticipating it's arrival.


 It arrived while I was away on vacation (shipped to a friend's house) so I 
 was torn between enjoying mountain biking and seeing family in the Bay Area 
 and wanting to get the heck back to Minneapolis to see this new beauty. 
 Common sense ruled the day and I didn't get an early return ticket. While 
 in the Bay Area, I decided to make a pilgrimage to Riv to pick up some 
 pedals (sneaker) and some decals. The bike is smartly without any Riv 
 decals--very incognito and just a little less thief-magnetic for it. 
 However, since this is my first Riv and I'm just short enough on 
 self-security I really want to bask in the reflected glow of this pedigreed 
 chariot. Anyway, had a really nice chat with Keven and he sent me off with 
 the goods plus a few Readers and a coin purse to boot. Super cool.


 I arrived home late Friday and put it together Saturday morning. It rides 
 like a dream. So, all this to say, I am really jazzed about my new bike and 
 have enjoyed lurking on the site. There's a lot of positivity and good 
 information here and I'm glad to be officially joining the group. Cheers, 
 and thanks Liesl! Hope to see some of you fellow Minneapolitans around town.


 Sergio


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[RBW] Re: Custom Paint: Army Green or Tuxedo Black?

[Matt Beebe]

Joe Bell can definitely match a color if you send him a sample. I did 
this when my custom frame was ready to be painted.   He told me he'd do his 
best to match the color, but then asked me to be rigidly flexible in my 
expectations, then proceeded to do an unbelievably awesome job.The 
color was spot on and looks way better than I could've imagined.



On Tuesday, July 30, 2013 1:21:56 PM UTC-4, Leslie wrote:

 I got ya!   

 Yeah

 There's pure khaki, that uniform sand/tan of the current BSA shirts and 
 USMC Alphas;  then there's pure olive-drab, which would be the rest of 
 the colors of BSA pants and USMC pants and coats;  but then there's that 
 shade that's a darker khaki and/or a pale olive-drab, that under one light 
 it's a tan but under another light it's a green, almost as if it was a 
 tweed blended of the two   -  I completely understand what you mean now 

 I think, now that I've thought about, I agree, calling it a khaki green 
 would suit and describe it well   khaki as tan, OD as green, and khaki 
 green as that between color

 Good color



 On Tuesday, July 30, 2013 1:03:56 PM UTC-4, Liesl wrote:

 As folks who went on the RCWS24o will attest,  I have a great fondness 
 for vintage BSA uniforms, equipment, etc, especially from the 1930's and 
 '40's (long OT story that I'll spare you).  For the camping trip, I had a 
 quite dapper 1940's era wool BSA shirt--metal buttons and everything.  They 
 don't make 'em like that anymore! I spent some time in the parking lot 
 outside of RivWorldHQ trying to match the color paint swatches with my 
 shirt.  The catalog categorized this color range as yellow-greens.  I would 
 add that they have a smitch of red so that the color goes in a subtle 
 brown-tan direction.  Is this Khaki?  OD?  Olive?  Who knows!  But the WWII 
 era color is quite a bit richer/more complex than what I see in the current 
 OD to Khaki directions.  It's a bit like the Derby Green tweed of the Riv 
 sweaters under a magnifier—lots of different colors in the details.

 On Tuesday, July 30, 2013 10:28:51 AM UTC-5, Leslie wrote:

 Alternate aside:   am I weird for only using khaki to describe tan or 
 beige, and if it goes green, I call it olive or olive drab, but not 
 khaki?   Maybe it's the former Marine in me, but OD and khaki get paired a 
 lot.  







 On Tuesday, July 30, 2013 10:42:21 AM UTC-4, Liesl wrote:

 I knew I wouldn't be disappointed by a lack of opinions!  A few quick 
 comments:

 1) Grants says any color headtube as long as it's cream (or the same 
 color as the rest of the bike)

 2) the diminutive frame size, the diagatube and tentacular stays, and 
 my request for a fork that'll take 55mm tires all combined are a design 
 challenge worthy of the designer!  last report was it's like fitting four 
 balls into three and a half holes.  Keep your fingers crossed on that 
 front.

 keep your suggestions coming!



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[RBW] Re: Custom Paint: Army Green or Tuxedo Black?

[Matt Beebe]

No matter what color you pick, Joe Bell is painting it, so it is going to 
look friggin awesome.That being said, if I were going to pick black, 
maybe I'd ask if he could give it a bit of a pearl/fine-metallic 
finish. Either way, I can't wait to see it.


Matt



On Monday, July 29, 2013 4:54:55 PM UTC-4, Liesl wrote:

 Hi Friends,

 I anticipate getting closer to the delivery of Appaloosa custom and was 
 all set on a good WWII type Khaki green, and THEN just as Grant predicted 
 I've been wavering.  I am now considering a black frame  --either way with 
 of course a cream headtube.  So I'm throwing out some chum to see what all 
 y'all think:  black or army green?  Please feel free to post links to your 
 beautiful black or army green bike.

 RCW


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[RBW] Re: Bike Fitting - A Mine Field

[Matt Beebe]

Well at least this encounter with the bike-fit establishment ended well, 
despite their best efforts :)I give your friend a lot of credit for 
sticking with what he felt was the best size. 

Perhaps what happened here is an instance of a phenomenon Grant Petersen 
explains in his essay about frame sizes and the typical 'racing' fit that 
happens to blend so conveniently with three-sizes-fits-all manufacturing:   
In addition to going against what the store clerks adamantly believe, by 
choosing the 62cm size your friend was implicitly telling the guys at the 
bike shop that the bikes THEY ride are too small, and that's got to sting a 
little, especially if one (the shop clerk) is the expert.   Hence you may 
have unintentionally triggered some defensiveness.   

Anyway I'm glad your buddy made the right choice.  good work!

Matt



On Saturday, July 27, 2013 5:02:48 AM UTC-4, IanA wrote:

 My friend was in the market for a new bicycle with a budget of around 
 $800.00.  He'd looked at various aluminum mountain bikes and talked to me 
 about it - he'd mentioned that he'd possibly like a single speed.  I 
 suggested he check out the Surly line of bikes and maybe push his budget a 
 little and get something he'd really enjoy.  Being a Rivendell owner 
 (recent acquisition) and having followed this list and GP's writings for 
 the last few years, I have certain ideas about bicycle fit.  Not being a 
 crotch-worrier, I like to start with the largest straddle-able frame and 
 work from there.  A fist-full of seat post, bars around saddle height etc. 
  Using this formula as a starting basis, I urged my friend to try a 62cm 
 Crosscheck (a single speed).  He loved it.  The store was adamant that a 
 58cm was he needed, with the saddle jacked up a good two fist-fulls and the 
 bars well below the saddle height, because that's where the power is.  My 
 friend test rode the 58, the 60 and then the 62cm and there was no way he 
 was going back.  The steerer tubes on all sizes had been cut quite low, but 
 on the 62cm, the set-up worked perfectly for my friend. The mechanic was 
 not happy about this and I was the unwelcome expert-friend, even though 
 they made the sale and my friend rode out the store on his new bike.  The 
 one he wanted.

 I suppose we all get locked into ideas and philosophies, but without my 
 input (as right or wrong as it may be), they would have sized him by 
 putting the saddle height above his hip bone and made the bars a few inches 
 below saddle height.  This was their fitting method.  At the end of the 
 day, my friend is delighted - he exceeded his budget by $175 and got a very 
 pretty bicycle that has clearance for 700 x 45 with fenders. Even with my 
 pretty LL there, I was jealous of his purchase.  The shop had never heard 
 of Rivendell, which made me wonder just how small a corner of the bike 
 world I must live in, hanging out here on the RBW list.




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[RBW] Re: Bike Fitting - A Mine Field

[Matt Beebe]

Even shops that are aware of and support Rivendell sizing techniques can 
sometimes lead you astray. I once had my PBH measured at such a shop, 
an otherwise really great shop which shall remain unnamed, and they 
measured it at 88cm, which in retrospect I think is definitely about 2cm 
too low, since I can easily ride a 64cm quickbeam which has about 89cm of 
standover height with 700x35 tires.I put this down to the device they 
used to measure-   it was a telescoping rod that came to a T at the top, 
with a* *lot of padding there, and I think this padding skewed the 
measurement. 

As for Surly top-tube sizes, they may be longish, but don't seem too out of 
line with Rivendell's designs.The 62cm Cross-check has a 61cm top-tube 
if you go by their geometry 
chartshttp://surlybikes.com/bikes/cross_check_ss/geometry. 
   The 62cm SimpleOne, by comparison, had an effective top tube of about 
60cm (though the geometry chart shows 59cm, that is the actual measurement, 
not effective).I think the 60cm Hillborne originally had an effective 
TT of 62.5cm, although I think they scaled that back to 61cm.   The 58cm 
Hunqapillar has an ETT of about 62.5, and the 62 has an ETT of about 65cm. 
 



On Saturday, July 27, 2013 6:18:17 AM UTC-4, Michael Hechmer wrote:

 Size Matters.  And not just in the bike.  My experience has been that the 
 larger the shop the smaller the level of knowledge.  There are of course 
 exceptions to this, e.g. Harris Cyclery.  But most often very large bike 
 shops survive by hiring college age guys, usually steeped in racing, to 
 push  a hi volume of Treks, Cannondales, Specialized, etc out the door. 
  One rainy Sunday afternoon I browsed through a large local bike shop and 
 watched a middle age women tell a very young sales clerk she wanted a bike 
 to ride on paths.  He steered her to a full suspension mt. bike! 
  Yesterday the latest issue of Buycycle magazine arrived (uninvited) into 
 my home.  The cover headline was Have More Fun and pictured a man riding 
 in shorts and a polo shirt,  but the bike had 16 spoke radial wheels, road 
 pedals, and bars about 6 below the seat.  It didn't look like fun; it 
 looked silly.

 Moral of the story - Newbies shouldn't buy solo.

 Michael

 On Saturday, July 27, 2013 5:02:48 AM UTC-4, IanA wrote:

 My friend was in the market for a new bicycle with a budget of around 
 $800.00.  He'd looked at various aluminum mountain bikes and talked to me 
 about it - he'd mentioned that he'd possibly like a single speed.  I 
 suggested he check out the Surly line of bikes and maybe push his budget a 
 little and get something he'd really enjoy.  Being a Rivendell owner 
 (recent acquisition) and having followed this list and GP's writings for 
 the last few years, I have certain ideas about bicycle fit.  Not being a 
 crotch-worrier, I like to start with the largest straddle-able frame and 
 work from there.  A fist-full of seat post, bars around saddle height etc. 
  Using this formula as a starting basis, I urged my friend to try a 62cm 
 Crosscheck (a single speed).  He loved it.  The store was adamant that a 
 58cm was he needed, with the saddle jacked up a good two fist-fulls and the 
 bars well below the saddle height, because that's where the power is.  My 
 friend test rode the 58, the 60 and then the 62cm and there was no way he 
 was going back.  The steerer tubes on all sizes had been cut quite low, but 
 on the 62cm, the set-up worked perfectly for my friend. The mechanic was 
 not happy about this and I was the unwelcome expert-friend, even though 
 they made the sale and my friend rode out the store on his new bike.  The 
 one he wanted.

 I suppose we all get locked into ideas and philosophies, but without my 
 input (as right or wrong as it may be), they would have sized him by 
 putting the saddle height above his hip bone and made the bars a few inches 
 below saddle height.  This was their fitting method.  At the end of the 
 day, my friend is delighted - he exceeded his budget by $175 and got a very 
 pretty bicycle that has clearance for 700 x 45 with fenders. Even with my 
 pretty LL there, I was jealous of his purchase.  The shop had never heard 
 of Rivendell, which made me wonder just how small a corner of the bike 
 world I must live in, hanging out here on the RBW list.




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[RBW] Re: Regarding Seth Vidal

[Matt Beebe]

Hi Eunice,

Thank you for posting here, and so sorry for your loss. You and all of 
Seth's family and friends have definitely been in my thoughts;  he just 
seemed like a very special person. It is good to hear that Seth's 
beloved bicycle was part of his memorial.I can only echo what Doug P. 
said, although I only knew him via this online community, Seth Vidal is a 
name I associated with healthy love of bicycling, both as a source of joy 
and means of transportation, and I considered him a kindred spirit from 
afar.I am also aware of Seth's extraordinary contributions to the 
open-source programming community, and can only marvel at the positive 
impact he made during his life. Please stay strong and reach out to us 
any time.

Matt   



On Saturday, July 20, 2013 9:43:34 PM UTC-4, Eunice Chang wrote:

 Hi-

 You don't know me, but I'm Seth's partner Eunice. I have debated sending 
 this, because I'm not really a Riv owner but thought you all might want to 
 know.

 The bike he rode when he was killed was his Romulus. I don't know where it 
 is, but it's probably being held for evidence.

 The other Riv bike he had, the Hilsen, was displayed prominently at his 
 memorial service.

 I also wanted to thank you for your condolences.

 -Eunice




 On Tuesday, July 9, 2013 1:24:45 PM UTC-4, Jack wrote:

 Friends,

 I am deeply saddened to share the news with you that my friend and 
 longtime Riv owner and active RBW list participant Seth Vidal was killed by 
 a hit and run driver last night here in Durham, NC.  

 The latest info about the tragedy is here:
 http://www.wral.com/bicyclist-killed-in-durham-hit-and-run/12639104/
 http://abclocal.go.com/wtvd/story?section=news/localid=9166340

 Kind regards
 Jack

 ---
 Jack Warman
 Durham, NC
  
  


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[RBW] Re: Slightly OT: Motorcycle Riding and Bicycles

[Matt Beebe]

Warning:   text that follows is a downer!

I used to ride motorcycles in my 20's, and had lots of friends through 
motorcycling.  Many overnight trips into Vermont and the Adirondacks.I 
met my better half through motorcycling, though neither of us ride anymore. 
 Sadly I lost two of my riding buddies in one month, August of 2005, to 
motorcycle accidents, and that kind of took the wind out of my sails.   One 
of them had just gotten married, and was killed by a car.   I still rode 
for a little while after that, but it just didn't seem worth it; I didn't 
love it that much to begin with.It wasn't as fun or rewarding as 
bicycling, camping, hiking, or a bunch of other things for me-though 
bicycling shares the lethal danger of pointless death by car for sure, 
unfortunately.

Matt
   

On Sunday, July 21, 2013 12:02:17 AM UTC-4, Montclair BobbyB wrote:

 I know there are a few motorcycle riders out there... I'm curious what 
 kind of motorcycles do bicycle people ride?  I'm fairly new to motorcycling 
 (within the last 2 years), and I honestly can say I got interested in 
 motorcycling because of my appreciation of bicycling (and therefore all 
 things two-wheeled). 

 So forgive me for introducing motorized 2-wheelers into this forum, but I 
 think there are definite parallels between bicycling and motorcycling.  

 My favorite bike in my stable is my Bombadil (with front and rear racks 
 and Bullmoose bars, lights, and a saddle bag).  This is a go-anywhere, do 
 anything (albeit at-a-slower-pace) kind of bike.  I also have a 1986 
 Schwinn Cimmaron set up pretty much the same way as my Bomba... And I also 
 have other bikes for different purposes; a SimpleOne that's purely for 
 pedaling, mostly around town, a StumpJumper or 2, Rockhopper, (Dutch) 
 Gazelle, Raleigh Olympian, Nishiki Prestige... mostly lugged, Rivish-style 
 setups.)  So my taste in bicycles tends to gravitate towards well-made, 
 practical and utlitarian bikes with a certain proven (and respected) 
 history.

 As for motorcycles, my tastes run similar. I have two motorcycles, both 
 BMWs.  The first is an older 1977 R60/7 Airhead, which is just a beautiful, 
 classic bike.  When I ride it through New Hope PA, which on a typical 
 Sunday is overpopulated with Harleys, I get all kinds of looks and smiles. 
  My other bike is a 1993 K1100LT, which I like to think of as a Riv-ish 
 workhorse of a touring bike... It's a go-anywhere bike with plenty of 
 storage to haul enough gear for a 1-2-week getaway.  It's equally 
 comfortable on back roads or highways, and its upright position gives you a 
 great command of the road ahead.  It's a real pleasure to ride, and its 
 exactly what I would expect the perfect touring motorcycle to be.

 Best thing about these bikes is that there are lots of them out there on 
 the used market for less money than many of us pay for bicycles, and these 
 classic motorcycles will (like our Rivendells) likely outlive us... I like 
 that...

 So what are YOU riding?

 Peace,
 BB



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[RBW] Re: Atlantis build help

[Matt Beebe]

First of all, good on you for building up an Atlantis for your wife! 
Regarding the rear shifting, have you tried adjusting the derailleur set 
screws?  

http://www.parktool.com/blog/repair-help/rear-derailler-adjustments-derailleur



On Sunday, July 21, 2013 5:44:54 PM UTC-4, shawn wrote:

 I am building up my wife's 51 cm Atlantis and I have ran into some 
 trouble. I cannot for the life of me get the rear cassette to shift into 
 the largest two cogs. The drive train is as follows:
 Sugino XD-2 46/36/24, Shimano cassettes- 9 Speed 12-36t, Shimano Deore LX 
 rear derailer, Shimano Deore XT front derailer. 

 I believe my chain line is ok. Any suggestions would be greatly 
 appreciated. 
 Thanks
 Shawn




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[RBW] Re: Slightly OT: Motorcycle Riding and Bicycles

[Matt Beebe]

Bobby B,

Sorry for the drag of a post there(!)   I certainly wouldn't presume to 
advise you not to ride motorcycles, especially if it's something you always 
wanted to try.

Like lots of things, sometimes you just have to try it...  perhaps to get 
it out of your system, OR maybe it becomes something you love, and you 
never lose interest in it!Either way, enjoy the experience, and happy 
riding!

:)
Matt



On Sunday, July 21, 2013 5:29:37 PM UTC-4, Montclair BobbyB wrote:

 Matt: 

 Sorry about the loss of your friends.  I know how you feel.  I've lost 
 friends over the years to motorcycle fatalities, and wouldn't ever consider 
 getting on a motorcycle...(until recently, strangely enough).  It's just 
 one of those things I decided I wanted to try (after I turned 50)... I'm 
 still scared every time I ride (which is probably a good thing), and I like 
 to stick to back roads as much as possible. Same when I'm riding 
 bicycles... 

 BB

 On Sunday, July 21, 2013 2:33:45 PM UTC-4, Matt Beebe wrote:

 Warning:   text that follows is a downer!

 I used to ride motorcycles in my 20's, and had lots of friends through 
 motorcycling.  Many overnight trips into Vermont and the Adirondacks.I 
 met my better half through motorcycling, though neither of us ride anymore. 
  Sadly I lost two of my riding buddies in one month, August of 2005, to 
 motorcycle accidents, and that kind of took the wind out of my sails.   One 
 of them had just gotten married, and was killed by a car.   I still rode 
 for a little while after that, but it just didn't seem worth it; I didn't 
 love it that much to begin with.It wasn't as fun or rewarding as 
 bicycling, camping, hiking, or a bunch of other things for me-though 
 bicycling shares the lethal danger of pointless death by car for sure, 
 unfortunately.

 Matt


 On Sunday, July 21, 2013 12:02:17 AM UTC-4, Montclair BobbyB wrote:

 I know there are a few motorcycle riders out there... I'm curious what 
 kind of motorcycles do bicycle people ride?  I'm fairly new to motorcycling 
 (within the last 2 years), and I honestly can say I got interested in 
 motorcycling because of my appreciation of bicycling (and therefore all 
 things two-wheeled). 

 So forgive me for introducing motorized 2-wheelers into this forum, but 
 I think there are definite parallels between bicycling and motorcycling.  

 My favorite bike in my stable is my Bombadil (with front and rear racks 
 and Bullmoose bars, lights, and a saddle bag).  This is a go-anywhere, do 
 anything (albeit at-a-slower-pace) kind of bike.  I also have a 1986 
 Schwinn Cimmaron set up pretty much the same way as my Bomba... And I also 
 have other bikes for different purposes; a SimpleOne that's purely for 
 pedaling, mostly around town, a StumpJumper or 2, Rockhopper, (Dutch) 
 Gazelle, Raleigh Olympian, Nishiki Prestige... mostly lugged, Rivish-style 
 setups.)  So my taste in bicycles tends to gravitate towards well-made, 
 practical and utlitarian bikes with a certain proven (and respected) 
 history.

 As for motorcycles, my tastes run similar. I have two motorcycles, both 
 BMWs.  The first is an older 1977 R60/7 Airhead, which is just a beautiful, 
 classic bike.  When I ride it through New Hope PA, which on a typical 
 Sunday is overpopulated with Harleys, I get all kinds of looks and smiles. 
  My other bike is a 1993 K1100LT, which I like to think of as a Riv-ish 
 workhorse of a touring bike... It's a go-anywhere bike with plenty of 
 storage to haul enough gear for a 1-2-week getaway.  It's equally 
 comfortable on back roads or highways, and its upright position gives you a 
 great command of the road ahead.  It's a real pleasure to ride, and its 
 exactly what I would expect the perfect touring motorcycle to be.

 Best thing about these bikes is that there are lots of them out there on 
 the used market for less money than many of us pay for bicycles, and these 
 classic motorcycles will (like our Rivendells) likely outlive us... I like 
 that...

 So what are YOU riding?

 Peace,
 BB



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Re: [RBW] Re: Need shoe recommendations for riding.

[Matt Beebe]

I like to just use pedals that are shoe-agnostic, rubber block pedals are 
good for this.   I imagine grip-kings are good too if you don't use pins, 
but rubber is definitely easy on leather soles, moccasins or bare feet.

Matt

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[RBW] Re: Newly built-up LongLow

[Matt Beebe]

Nice setup!   looks like a smooth riding bike, ready to go anywhere. 
What kind of dynohub are you using there?



On Thursday, July 18, 2013 1:27:46 AM UTC-4, IanA wrote:

 Towards the end of 2012, I bought a 1998 Double Joe F/F/HS LongLow from a 
 list member. I bought parts from Germany, the US, from list members (good 
 people here).  I have to say that dealing with the people on this list has 
 been a pleasure.

 I'm not a talented photographer, and the bicycle does look lovelier in the 
 steel.  This is my first Rivendell and it absolutely rides like a dream - 
 the stories are all true. I took it on its maiden voyage today and 20km 
 later was walking through the front door thinking I really must buy an 
 Atlantis as well.

 I've set it up for Randonneur riding and light-weight touring.  It will 
 comfortably handle true 35mm tires with the fenders, so I think it offers 
 lots of versatility.  I have it as an 8 speed (12-28) to the XD triple 
 (28/38/48) and that seems to be a good fit for this bike.

 It's my first ground-up build.  The headset was already pressed in, but I 
 built the wheels myself for this bicycle (first time) and assembled 
 everything either in my living-room or when I needed to at the local 
 bicycle co-op.  It's taken me a few months as I was working too much, but 
 it's good to finish the build finally.  I kept the build cost as low as 
 possible, using second-hand or using parts I already owned where I could. 
  There are also quite a few new parts and I haven't compromised on quality. 
  Overall, I'm very happy with the way it has turned out.


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Re: [RBW] Re: What brand was that Japanese bartape RBW just stopped selling?

[Matt Beebe]

I use Greengrips tape, it's great in my opinion.   It's a little wider than 
velox and Viva tape, and has similar paper peel-away backing as Newbaums 
(which I'm not crazy about, but it's not a big deal).

Matt


On Tuesday, July 9, 2013 10:41:02 AM UTC-4, ccanter wrote:

 Has anyone used this?
 http://www.greengrips.org/


 On Tue, Jul 9, 2013 at 10:07 AM, Michael john1...@gmail.com javascript:
  wrote:

 Thanks, y'all.

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[RBW] Re: Terrible News

[Matt Beebe]

Seth's contributions here were always positive.Not surprising that he 
was also a prominent contributor in open source software community. His 
death is tragic and the circumstances infuriating.



On Tuesday, July 9, 2013 3:03:07 PM UTC-4, Peter Pesce wrote:

 via Twitter:

 *ThePathLessPedaled* @*pathlesspedaled* 
 https://twitter.com/pathlesspedaledhttps://twitter.com/pathlesspedaled/status/354656280192880640
  

 Just found out a reader from Durham was killed in a hit and run. RIP Seth 
 Vidal. http://bit.ly/1bljzbI http://t.co/Eaofzr7YnK
 http://www.wral.com/bicyclist-killed-in-durham-hit-and-run/12639104/

 I do not know if this is the same person who is regular here. I did not 
 know him personally. The PLP video they link to features a nice guy on an 
 Atlantis. (If not, my apologies for causing undue grief.)

 Thoughts and prayers for his family and friends.

 -Pete in CT


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[RBW] Re: Morning coffee ride on the freshly painted All Rounder!

[Matt Beebe]

Looks like a fabulous morning!   The green paint looks sweet, and the bike 
seems to eat those 650b wheels right up.   Clearance!  leave it to a Riv 
anyway. 


On Saturday, July 6, 2013 12:07:17 PM UTC-4, jinxed wrote:

 This mornings ride has been in my head for a LONG time, and the last week 
 saw all the parts come together.

 Bike by Rivendell
 Caldera Keg by Trail Designs via Ocean Air Cycles
 Acorn Mini Rando provided by the board - Thanks Thomas!
 Green cap from Jenny The Funky Drummah Klug
 Coffee and sunshine from the gods.

 It should be of no surprise that when you assemble quality made, thought 
 out, tried and true products...the results harmonize effortlessly.

 I enjoyed one of the nicest outings on my bike this morning.

 Pictures. Proof.

 http://www.flickr.com/photos/42027576@N00/sets/72157634508699383/


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[RBW] Re: Portland to Seattle through the backdoor on a Romulus

[Matt Beebe]

Looks like an awesome, scenic ride.Great photos!  




On Thursday, July 4, 2013 6:30:01 PM UTC-4, joe b. wrote:

 I-bobs please excuse the cross post.

 Fellow Riv-lister Oliver  I took Jan Heine's route as inspiration, though 
 we did it more slowmo than rando. Three days included some great roads, 
 fantastic camping, and my longest day ever on the bike! I loaded the 
 Romulus well beyond intended (~30 pounds of gear), but it still rode very 
 well. I wouldn't go much heavier, though, as I had to be mindful loading 
 and riding to keep the shimmy monster at bay. A real highlight was meeting 
 up at random with Rambouillet rider Bruce, who good naturedly led us up 
 from Lake Washington to Capitol Hill. Thanks, Bruce! We crashed with 
 friends in Seattle and took Amtrak back to Portland. Enjoy some photos from 
 the trip here:

 http://www.flickr.com/photos/cyclerslife/sets/72157634488426216/

 Best,
 joe broach
 portland, or


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Re: [RBW] Re: Newbaum's cloth bar tape

[Matt Beebe]

Also check out greengrips tape:   http://www.greengrips.org/   It is 
good quality and very easy to wrap.

Matt


P.S.  For some reason, sometimes their site doesn't load the first time you 
go to the URL (maybe it's just my computer), but after that no problems.





On Monday, July 1, 2013 6:39:49 PM UTC-4, Christopher Chen wrote:

 Also at SOMA fab: http://store.somafab.com/vivatape.html


 On Mon, Jul 1, 2013 at 3:07 PM, Lee Chae lee...@stanford.edujavascript:
  wrote:

 Hi Johnny. I believe Jitensha Studio still carries the Viva cloth tape:

 http://jitensha.com/eng/tape_e.html

 Best,
 Le


 On Mon, Jul 1, 2013 at 2:58 PM, Johnny Alien 
 johnn...@verizon.netjavascript:
  wrote:

 I actually find the Newbaums a pain to install.  Something about it 
 makes it want to go on crooked.  The best bar tape was that Japanese kind 
 that Rivendell carried a year back or less.  I want to know where to get 
 more of that.  The light green was a fantastic color.


 On Monday, July 1, 2013 3:46:40 PM UTC-4, Don Compton wrote:

 I purchased my first cloth bar tape and have a new appreciation for the 
 effort needed to install this tape. I bought Newbaum's and its very nice, 
 but its a bearcat to wrap. Two rolls on my Ergo equipped, 44cm noodles, 
 with a little to spare.
 Don

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Re: [RBW] Re: LBS Love...

[Matt Beebe]

+1 for Harris Cyclery.   Everyone there is great, and Elton and Susan 
have been especially helpful to me.




On Sunday, June 30, 2013 3:33:13 PM UTC-4, Jim wrote:

 Boston Area is lucky. We have Harris Cyclery. You could not ask for 
 better. Good people, good stock, good shop.Jim D.   
  Massachusetts

 On Sunday, June 30, 2013 9:06:24 AM UTC-4, EricP wrote:

 Another one who votes with his dollars at Hiawatha Cyclery.  Jim and Mark 
 are great.  Willing to put up with my strange needs.  Then again, they have 
 come up with some pretty strange and cool things themselves. 
  
 The Twin Cities does have a nice selection of bike shops that speak steel 
 bikes.  Doesn't hurt that QBP is located here.
 Eric Platt
 St. Paul, MN
  

 On Sun, Jun 30, 2013 at 6:36 AM, Edwin W dween...@hotmail.com wrote:

 Benji was amazing with price and ferrous with his time.

 That means he ironed things out while you spent time with him!

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[RBW] Re: New rig and Sunday afternoon ride

[Matt Beebe]

Hi Mike,

A tour to mark ten years is an excellent plan :)I'd love to see some 
pics of your Curt Goodrich A/R. About the ST decal, yes it's an option, 
you can request wrap-around or diamond style.They even have different 
outline colors to choose from.

Matt



On Tuesday, June 25, 2013 7:49:40 PM UTC-4, M D Smith wrote:

 Very nice All-rounder! 

 I have custom (Curt-built) A/R as well (26 wheels, though) and am pleased 
 as punch with it.  How exciting to have a future old friend and traveling 
 companion!

 I was just looking at my records and I ordered it in January of '03 and it 
 was delivered at the end of July '04.  It seemed like an eternity and I 
 probably purchased parts for three complete bikes in that time...  (Wow, I 
 can't believe it's been that long.  I guess I have to start planning a 10 
 year anniversary tour for next summer!)

 One thing I notice about your bike is that it has the diamond shaped old 
 style decal on the seat tube rather than the more recent wrapped all the 
 way around rectangle.  Was this an option?  Are they moving back to the 
 older style?  Just curious.  I was always fond of the older diamond style 
 and it's nice to see a new bike with that style.

 Enjoy the ride and thanks for sharing!

 Cheers- Mike in Htfd CT




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[RBW] Re: New rig and Sunday afternoon ride

[Matt Beebe]

Patrick,

I just think it's cool that you can call them up, and whoever answers the 
phone is probably going to answer your question/help you out right then.   
  Oftentimes Grant will answer the phone.How many longstanding, 
renowned companies (almost 20 years for Rivendell) have founders who still 
talk to you when you call them up.It means something.

By the way, those are some brilliant photos you posted from the 2-nighter 
in the other thread.That is gorgeous country you have over there.

Matt


On Tuesday, June 25, 2013 8:20:56 PM UTC-4, Deacon Patrick wrote:

 I should add that my experience ordering my off the rack Hunqapillar, 
 Grant et al went well above and beyond to help me buy my first bike in 20 
 years. It's a disconcerting choice to spend that much on a bike when I 
 wasn't sure (due to vertigo) if I would be able to ride it any farther than 
 the free donated Schwinn (3 miles) or the Riv'd too-small Trek MTB (8 
 miles), yet I somehow felt in confident hands that would not steer me 
 wrong. They worked with me on figuring out barefoot pedals and who knows 
 how many other returning neophyte questions. The good news is, my bike 
 lives up to it's name of Shadowfax, being a steed that makes sure it's 
 rider is always on. I've since pummeled them with endless questions about 
 bags and racks and whatnot and they handle them all wonderfully.

 With abandon,
 Patrick

 On Monday, June 24, 2013 6:42:59 AM UTC-6, Matt Beebe wrote:

 Hi All,

 A couple years ago Rivendell mentioned in their mailing list update that 
 their custom queue had gotten very short. This certainly planted a 
 thought in my mind and after pondering for a while, being a huge fan of all 
 bikes Rivendell, I decided to order my first custom from them, an 
 all-rounder.   If you are on the fence about going to Rivendell for a 
 custom (or any bike), I advise going for it.   Let's just say they go way, 
 WAY above and beyond to help you find what you are looking for.

 Anyway I got it this past week and am blown away, I could not be more 
 psyched on this thing.   I built it up in an craze of excitement and have 
 been riding it more or less nonstop, it's a blast.   

 Here are some pictures from the local woods this past Sunday afternoon.   
 The bike rides fantastically, comfortable and natural feeling.   It is like 
 a wolf in sheep's clothing in a way-  in addition to the signature 
 rivendell good looks and regalness, it handles the trails like it was 
 nothing (except fun of course!)

 https://www.flickr.com/photos/43029278@N07/sets/72157634302421200/


 Happy riding everyone

 Matt 



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[RBW] Re: Powder Coated S.H. and Dureme 50's

[Matt Beebe]

The powdercoat looks good and sturdy.I love the 50mm Duremes.This 
is one of the OG green ones right?   My better half has an OG green one, 
beautiful paint but it is definitely somewhat temperamental.   She's been 
getting by with some nail polish that Elton at Harris Cyclery gave her, 
which is a darn close match.




On Sunday, June 23, 2013 12:52:05 PM UTC-4, jandrews_nyc wrote:


 I recently had my flaking paint S.H. powder coated as I often leave it 
 locked up outside in nyc.  The noodles went back on with a dirt drop and 
 also put the 50 Dureme's back on and currently enjoying the marshmallow 
 ride. see below


 https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-cXP8QQm-BNk/UccmtsceRMI/ALM/Im1317_no3A/s1600/HB.jpg



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[RBW] Re: Hammered finish and lugged handlebars anyone?

[Matt Beebe]

I don't know about lugged bars, but I do wish Rivendell would come out with 
some chromoly Noodle bars.   Maybe just two sizes:   42 and 46cm.That 
would be sweet.And chromoly cranks too  :D

Matt



On Saturday, June 22, 2013 11:21:16 AM UTC-4, Michael wrote:

 Would be interesting if Rivendell had lugged versions and hammered 
 versions of their bars.
  
 Just a lug collar at the ends of the drops and staches. Maybe at the clamp 
 sleeve, too. Maybe the sleeve could be a lug itself.
  
 Hammered finish would be cool on Albas and Boscos, etc.
 Bullmeeses coul easily take lugs at the stem/bar junctions.
  
 The Alba Bling Bar
 Noodle Bling Bar
 Albastache Bling Bar, etc.
  
 You think they would sell?
 Might make it hard to wrap though.


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[RBW] New rig and Sunday afternoon ride

[Matt Beebe]

Hi All,

A couple years ago Rivendell mentioned in their mailing list update that 
their custom queue had gotten very short. This certainly planted a 
thought in my mind and after pondering for a while, being a huge fan of all 
bikes Rivendell, I decided to order my first custom from them, an 
all-rounder.   If you are on the fence about going to Rivendell for a 
custom (or any bike), I advise going for it.   Let's just say they go way, 
WAY above and beyond to help you find what you are looking for.

Anyway I got it this past week and am blown away, I could not be more 
psyched on this thing.   I built it up in an craze of excitement and have 
been riding it more or less nonstop, it's a blast.   

Here are some pictures from the local woods this past Sunday afternoon.   
The bike rides fantastically, comfortable and natural feeling.   It is like 
a wolf in sheep's clothing in a way-  in addition to the signature 
rivendell good looks and regalness, it handles the trails like it was 
nothing (except fun of course!)

https://www.flickr.com/photos/43029278@N07/sets/72157634302421200/


Happy riding everyone

Matt 

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[RBW] Re: New rig and Sunday afternoon ride

[Matt Beebe]

Hi Patrick,

I have a few rivendell bikes already, and can't really say that any of them 
fall short in any way;  they're all great! With a custom, I suppose one 
could say you get marginal returns performance-wise, over their standard 
models-   I wouldn't say that about this bike, though, because it is 
clearly imbued with some kind of magic/wizardry-  but a person could 
certainly see it that way.So you have to really be into their bikes to 
go for one. A custom does have its extra bells and whistles, and 
intangible niftyness I think.In addition to being custom designed by 
Grant, they are built by Mark Nobillette and painted by Joe Bell, for 
example, if that is worth something to you.   I got to spec my own paint 
color (not that you couldn't with another model, too) by mixing together 
some oil paints and sending that and a fork from another bike to Joe Bell 
for inspiration (I also got to talk on the phone with Joe Bell, which was 
awesome).   He hit the bullseye on the color in my opinion, it is the 
perfect hue for a bicycle.As far as ordering from Rivendell goes, they 
are incredibly nice and understanding to deal with and talk to, all of 
them.   I was lucky enough to visit their HQ at the end of a long tour a 
few years ago, and I remember that they were all so cool (didn't get to 
meet Mark that time though unfortunately), and they even bought me lunch!   
RBW HQ is such a neat place, just bikes and bags everywhere, awesome 
(epic!) photographs on the walls, tons of bikeage in the air.  I've seen 
your Hunqapillar (wicked nice!), and ride photos, and have to say I am 
totally jealous of your stomping grounds.Looks like some serious fun.

Matt




On Monday, June 24, 2013 10:34:11 AM UTC-4, Deacon Patrick wrote:

 Fantastic, Matt! I'd love to hear about your custom experience (possible 
 long term interest, mostly curiosity, as I have 5 other people to 
 eventually get Riv's for before I would even consider pulling the trigger 
 on a custom). What Riv's have you owned/ridden pre custom? What made you 
 desire a custom that they weren't meeting? How did that get met in the 
 custom? When you say Riv went WAY above and beyond, what were you looking 
 for that they helped you find?

 I am delighted on my Hunqapillar and can't imagine a custom being anything 
 but costing more money to do pretty much the same thing. Still, it's fun to 
 play with the possibilities.

 With abandon,
 Patrick

 On Monday, June 24, 2013 6:42:59 AM UTC-6, Matt Beebe wrote:

 Hi All,

 A couple years ago Rivendell mentioned in their mailing list update that 
 their custom queue had gotten very short. This certainly planted a 
 thought in my mind and after pondering for a while, being a huge fan of all 
 bikes Rivendell, I decided to order my first custom from them, an 
 all-rounder.   If you are on the fence about going to Rivendell for a 
 custom (or any bike), I advise going for it.   Let's just say they go way, 
 WAY above and beyond to help you find what you are looking for.

 Anyway I got it this past week and am blown away, I could not be more 
 psyched on this thing.   I built it up in an craze of excitement and have 
 been riding it more or less nonstop, it's a blast.   

 Here are some pictures from the local woods this past Sunday afternoon.   
 The bike rides fantastically, comfortable and natural feeling.   It is like 
 a wolf in sheep's clothing in a way-  in addition to the signature 
 rivendell good looks and regalness, it handles the trails like it was 
 nothing (except fun of course!)

 https://www.flickr.com/photos/43029278@N07/sets/72157634302421200/


 Happy riding everyone

 Matt 



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Re: [RBW] New rig and Sunday afternoon ride

[Matt Beebe]

Hi Patrick (Moore),

Thanks!   I've long admired your two Riv customs, and the way you have 
written about them says a lot about how great they are.The tires I have 
on this bike are Schwalbe 700x47 Marathons (measure more like 43 or 
44mm)-they are not new, in fact, I've been riding the heck out of these 
tires for over a year now, and they still have the little nubs on them from 
the molding process... at this rate they are going to last forever (I love 
schwalbe for that).For other parts, the rims are Velocity Dyads, hubs 
are White Industries and Phil Wood, Tektro cantis, mechs are shimano XTR 
front and back, Rivendell guard crank, Tange BB, KMC chain, IRD 
ball/rollerbearing headset (that Riv sells) and pretty much Nitto or 
Shimano everything else that I forgot.

Matt


On Monday, June 24, 2013 11:32:22 AM UTC-4, Patrick Moore wrote:

 Matt: Congratulations. That's a bike and a build after my own heart.

 Can you give build particulars? Tires, in particular?

 On Mon, Jun 24, 2013 at 6:42 AM, Matt Beebe matthi...@gmail.comjavascript:
  wrote:

 Hi All,

 A couple years ago Rivendell mentioned in their mailing list update that 
 their custom queue had gotten very short. This certainly planted a 
 thought in my mind and after pondering for a while, being a huge fan of all 
 bikes Rivendell, I decided to order my first custom from them, an 
 all-rounder.   If you are on the fence about going to Rivendell for a 
 custom (or any bike), I advise going for it.   Let's just say they go way, 
 WAY above and beyond to help you find what you are looking for.

 Anyway I got it this past week and am blown away, I could not be more 
 psyched on this thing.   I built it up in an craze of excitement and have 
 been riding it more or less nonstop, it's a blast.   

 Here are some pictures from the local woods this past Sunday afternoon.   
 The bike rides fantastically, comfortable and natural feeling.   It is like 
 a wolf in sheep's clothing in a way-  in addition to the signature 
 rivendell good looks and regalness, it handles the trails like it was 
 nothing (except fun of course!)

 https://www.flickr.com/photos/43029278@N07/sets/72157634302421200/


 Happy riding everyone

 Matt 

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 Albuquerque, NM
  

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Re: [RBW] New rig and Sunday afternoon ride

[Matt Beebe]

Oh and the pedals are Wellgos, LU868.   I love these pedals, you could ride 
barefoot if you wanted to and be totally comfortable on them.



On Monday, June 24, 2013 11:32:22 AM UTC-4, Patrick Moore wrote:

 Matt: Congratulations. That's a bike and a build after my own heart.

 Can you give build particulars? Tires, in particular?

 On Mon, Jun 24, 2013 at 6:42 AM, Matt Beebe matthi...@gmail.comjavascript:
  wrote:

 Hi All,

 A couple years ago Rivendell mentioned in their mailing list update that 
 their custom queue had gotten very short. This certainly planted a 
 thought in my mind and after pondering for a while, being a huge fan of all 
 bikes Rivendell, I decided to order my first custom from them, an 
 all-rounder.   If you are on the fence about going to Rivendell for a 
 custom (or any bike), I advise going for it.   Let's just say they go way, 
 WAY above and beyond to help you find what you are looking for.

 Anyway I got it this past week and am blown away, I could not be more 
 psyched on this thing.   I built it up in an craze of excitement and have 
 been riding it more or less nonstop, it's a blast.   

 Here are some pictures from the local woods this past Sunday afternoon.   
 The bike rides fantastically, comfortable and natural feeling.   It is like 
 a wolf in sheep's clothing in a way-  in addition to the signature 
 rivendell good looks and regalness, it handles the trails like it was 
 nothing (except fun of course!)

 https://www.flickr.com/photos/43029278@N07/sets/72157634302421200/


 Happy riding everyone

 Matt 

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[RBW] Re: 50K on a Sunday morning

[Matt Beebe]

Looks like a beautiful ride, the kinda solo excursion that can heal the 
soul.So jealous of those mountains and wide open spaces.


On Sunday, June 23, 2013 4:50:48 PM UTC-4, cyclot...@gmail.com wrote:

 Absolutely perfect weather today, so I had to jump on the opportunity to 
 get out and about. I rode the skinny-tired bike and went over hill and 
 dale. Enjoyed every one of the ride's180 minutes.

 SoCal has some pretty good riding!

 PTPIH: http://www.flickr.com/photos/cyclotourist/sets/72157634290998628

 Cheers,
 David

  

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[RBW] Re: Carradice

[Matt Beebe]

Carradice has outstanding customer service. They've always been 
way-above-and-beyond helpful whenever I've contacted them about minor stuff 
with old bags (issues that had nothing to do with quality).   They really 
do stand behind their goods.

As for quick-release capability, I like the Nitto saddlebag QR that Riv 
sells along with a regular rack or Mark's rack.I have this setup on two 
different bikes and have never had a problem with it.

Matt


On Saturday, June 22, 2013 12:29:57 AM UTC-4, Jay in Tel Aviv wrote:

 I commute with a Super C saddle bag and quick release Bagman. I've had 
 this setup for a few years and it works well for me, but I needed a 
 convenient way to use the bag on my 2nd bike. So I got a 2nd Bagman (clamp 
 only) which I now use with a rear rack on the Riv, and moved the 1st Bagman 
 to my Brompton. 

 Long story short, a couple months ago one of the pins that activates the 
 Q/R fell out on the Riv bagman. Marguerite at Carradice kindly sent me 2 
 replacements, the second of which fell off last week. I updated Margeurite 
 asking what my options were - Kelly's sale had me thinking about SQR as an 
 alternative. I started checking prices on the web (Wiggle) when Marguerite 
 replied that a replacement clamp is on its way.

 Nice.

 Jay


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[RBW] Re: Get on your bike or the rise of the unracer

[Matt Beebe]

Loved it!



On Friday, June 21, 2013 3:54:45 PM UTC-4, bwphoto wrote:


 I ran across this from the London Cyclist a great example of promoting the 
 unracer or just riding. Admittedly it does take place during a race but 
 the end tells it all. Here's the link: 
 http://ibikelondon.blogspot.com/2013/06/get-on-your-bike.html


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[RBW] Re: DIY 40-26 questions

[Matt Beebe]

Definitely do it.Setting the limit screw works just fine, and you can 
get used to any nuances it introduces to shifting. I have been using 
the Riv bash guard crank on all my bikes for years now and love it.For 
a while it was just the quickbeam crank and I would just run the stock 
40/32 until the aluminum rings needed replacing. I never use the big 
ring on triples either, and on my touring rig I don't even need a 40t ring, 
I get by with a 36.I can't hit all 8 cogs with both chainrings though;  
certainly not with the granny anyway-  the chain would not be psyched on 
the outer cogs.

Matt


On Wednesday, June 19, 2013 3:21:23 PM UTC-4, Jay in Tel Aviv wrote:

 I'm intrigued by Grant's idea of 40-26 front gearing for my Sam Hillborne, 
 but Riv is out of their wide-low cranks and there's actually nothing wrong 
 with Sugino triple that's on there now. So I was wondering if it would be 
 possible to just replace the middle ring with a 40, and either replace the 
 outer ring with a bash guard or just leave it as is. Would the Tiagra 
 triple derailler I have on there work well with this configuration? 
 Obviously I could reset the limit screw to restrict its range to the inner 
 and middle rings. But could I also lower the mounting position to match the 
 middle ring? Or would the outer ring be in the way?

 If it works, this would be a neat way to try out wide-low gearing for the 
 price of 1 chain ring. Thoughts?

 Jay




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Re: [RBW] Re: New to Albas after drops/staches...did this happen to you?

[Matt Beebe]

Right,  I have an 85 stumpjumper, and to look at it side on, it appears to 
have about 0cm of drop...  I'm sure it's more like ~4cm really, but 
combined with the fact that it has 46cm chainstays, it looks darn near 
zero.   The angle of incidence btw chainstay/ST is certainly none too 
acute despite the 70cm ST angle.

Matt


On Wednesday, June 19, 2013 6:48:50 PM UTC-4, Garth wrote:


 The original Stumpjumpers had a ST angle of 70 degrees and it used 
 standard triple front deraillers. I never had an issue using any FD with 
 it. So, it's not that, but* combined *with a *deep drop BB* that Riv 
 prefers, now we have an issue !  


 On Wednesday, June 19, 2013 5:37:30 PM UTC-4, Matt Beebe wrote:

 I remember reading in the blug or maybe RR that some Rivendell models 
 might have been designed with slacker ST angles than ~72, except that there 
 is a point where front derailleurs become difficult or impossible to fit, 
 due to the angle of incidence between the chainstay and seattube.I 
 thought that may have been the reason why the Rosco Bubbe did not have a 
 front derailleur option -   because the ST angle was less than 71 degrees 
 or whatever that threshold is. In any case, I am pretty sure Rivs are 
 designed to have as slack a seat tube angle as possible while still 
 allowing their versatile/all-purpose philosophy. 


 Matt


 On Wednesday, June 19, 2013 5:01:44 PM UTC-4, Patrick Moore wrote:

 This is an interesting phenomenon. I've often thought about it, since I 
 find that I need a certain amount of bend at the hips to feel comfortable 
 when pedaling, and I can't get that with a steepish standard seat tube and 
 high and close bars. I notice that Dutch city bikes and English roadsters 
 have very slack seat tube angles, steeper than the standard 71 and upward 
 range.

 I wonder what the muscular use/power output relationship is to saddle 
 setback (ie, behind crank axle) as well as of bend at the hips -- ie, if 
 you have two discrete and separate factors, namely hip behind crank axle 
 and bend at hip, and what the effect of each separately is?

 On Tue, Jun 18, 2013 at 5:17 PM, blakcloud blakc...@gmail.com wrote:

 I had a similar feeling when I went from a drop bar to Alba's. I felt 
 like I wanted to sit further back and push the pedals if that makes sense. 
 KOPS is something I totally disregard, place your saddle where it feels 
 comfortable. In the end I stopped using the Alba's because the position 
 was 
 too upright and I wanted a slightly more aggressive position. The Alba's 
 are going on the wife's Betty Foy if it ever arrives, so they weren't a 
 total waste.  

 On Monday, June 17, 2013 8:08:09 PM UTC-4, Michael wrote:

 Sitting totally upright on Albas with my saddle in the ususal KOPS 
 position that I had with 'staches and drops, I feel like my saddle has 
 moved forward, but it hasn't (I checked).
 Feels like I am out in front of the pedals now when pedaling -  not 
 directly over them like I felt with the low drops position with KOPS. I 
 guess when you move your weight around to a different position a lot 
 changes.
  
 Nothing bad, I'll just move the saddle back if I feel the need. But 
 for now keeping the saddle the same as long as nothing hurts.
 Just a curious thing.
  
 Did you feel this when you switched to totally upright after being 
 used to a low drops position?
  
 I am enjoying the bolt upright position a lot. Nice views. No 
 neck/hand issues either so far. I hope it will make it more comfy to wear 
 layers in the winter.
 With drops, clothes get scrunched between my belly and thighs. Upright 
 really opens up the torso. Its a nice feeling.
  
  
  
  
  

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 -- 

 http://resumespecialties.com/index.html
 patric...@resumespecialties.com

 Albuquerque, NM
  


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Re: [RBW] Re: New to Albas after drops/staches...did this happen to you?

[Matt Beebe]

Right,  to look at an '80s stumpjumper side on, it appears to have about 
0cm of drop...  I'm sure it's more like ~4cm really which is more typical 
for 26 wheeled bikes, but combined with the fact that it has 46cm 
chainstays, it looks darn near zero.   The angle of incidence btw 
chainstay/ST is certainly none too acute despite the 70deg ST angle.

Matt

On Wednesday, June 19, 2013 6:48:50 PM UTC-4, Garth wrote:


 The original Stumpjumpers had a ST angle of 70 degrees and it used 
 standard triple front deraillers. I never had an issue using any FD with 
 it. So, it's not that, but* combined *with a *deep drop BB* that Riv 
 prefers, now we have an issue !  


 On Wednesday, June 19, 2013 5:37:30 PM UTC-4, Matt Beebe wrote:

 I remember reading in the blug or maybe RR that some Rivendell models 
 might have been designed with slacker ST angles than ~72, except that there 
 is a point where front derailleurs become difficult or impossible to fit, 
 due to the angle of incidence between the chainstay and seattube.I 
 thought that may have been the reason why the Rosco Bubbe did not have a 
 front derailleur option -   because the ST angle was less than 71 degrees 
 or whatever that threshold is. In any case, I am pretty sure Rivs are 
 designed to have as slack a seat tube angle as possible while still 
 allowing their versatile/all-purpose philosophy. 


 Matt


 On Wednesday, June 19, 2013 5:01:44 PM UTC-4, Patrick Moore wrote:

 This is an interesting phenomenon. I've often thought about it, since I 
 find that I need a certain amount of bend at the hips to feel comfortable 
 when pedaling, and I can't get that with a steepish standard seat tube and 
 high and close bars. I notice that Dutch city bikes and English roadsters 
 have very slack seat tube angles, steeper than the standard 71 and upward 
 range.

 I wonder what the muscular use/power output relationship is to saddle 
 setback (ie, behind crank axle) as well as of bend at the hips -- ie, if 
 you have two discrete and separate factors, namely hip behind crank axle 
 and bend at hip, and what the effect of each separately is?

 On Tue, Jun 18, 2013 at 5:17 PM, blakcloud blakc...@gmail.com wrote:

 I had a similar feeling when I went from a drop bar to Alba's. I felt 
 like I wanted to sit further back and push the pedals if that makes sense. 
 KOPS is something I totally disregard, place your saddle where it feels 
 comfortable. In the end I stopped using the Alba's because the position 
 was 
 too upright and I wanted a slightly more aggressive position. The Alba's 
 are going on the wife's Betty Foy if it ever arrives, so they weren't a 
 total waste.  

 On Monday, June 17, 2013 8:08:09 PM UTC-4, Michael wrote:

 Sitting totally upright on Albas with my saddle in the ususal KOPS 
 position that I had with 'staches and drops, I feel like my saddle has 
 moved forward, but it hasn't (I checked).
 Feels like I am out in front of the pedals now when pedaling -  not 
 directly over them like I felt with the low drops position with KOPS. I 
 guess when you move your weight around to a different position a lot 
 changes.
  
 Nothing bad, I'll just move the saddle back if I feel the need. But 
 for now keeping the saddle the same as long as nothing hurts.
 Just a curious thing.
  
 Did you feel this when you switched to totally upright after being 
 used to a low drops position?
  
 I am enjoying the bolt upright position a lot. Nice views. No 
 neck/hand issues either so far. I hope it will make it more comfy to wear 
 layers in the winter.
 With drops, clothes get scrunched between my belly and thighs. Upright 
 really opens up the torso. Its a nice feeling.
  
  
  
  
  

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 You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google 
 Groups RBW Owners Bunch group.
 To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send 
 an email to rbw-owners-bun...@googlegroups.com.
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 For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/groups/opt_out.
  
  




 -- 

 http://resumespecialties.com/index.html
 patric...@resumespecialties.com

 Albuquerque, NM
  


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Re: [RBW] Re: New to Albas after drops/staches...did this happen to you?

[Matt Beebe]

I remember reading in the blug or maybe RR that some Rivendell models might 
have been designed with slacker ST angles than ~72, except that there is a 
point where front derailleurs become difficult or impossible to fit, due to 
the angle of incidence between the chainstay and seattube.I thought 
that may have been the reason why the Rosco Bubbe did not have a front 
derailleur option -   because the ST angle was less than 71 degrees or 
whatever that threshold is. In any case, I am pretty sure Rivs are 
designed to have as slack a seat tube angle as possible while still 
allowing their versatile/all-purpose philosophy. 


Matt


On Wednesday, June 19, 2013 5:01:44 PM UTC-4, Patrick Moore wrote:

 This is an interesting phenomenon. I've often thought about it, since I 
 find that I need a certain amount of bend at the hips to feel comfortable 
 when pedaling, and I can't get that with a steepish standard seat tube and 
 high and close bars. I notice that Dutch city bikes and English roadsters 
 have very slack seat tube angles, steeper than the standard 71 and upward 
 range.

 I wonder what the muscular use/power output relationship is to saddle 
 setback (ie, behind crank axle) as well as of bend at the hips -- ie, if 
 you have two discrete and separate factors, namely hip behind crank axle 
 and bend at hip, and what the effect of each separately is?

 On Tue, Jun 18, 2013 at 5:17 PM, blakcloud blakc...@gmail.comjavascript:
  wrote:

 I had a similar feeling when I went from a drop bar to Alba's. I felt 
 like I wanted to sit further back and push the pedals if that makes sense. 
 KOPS is something I totally disregard, place your saddle where it feels 
 comfortable. In the end I stopped using the Alba's because the position was 
 too upright and I wanted a slightly more aggressive position. The Alba's 
 are going on the wife's Betty Foy if it ever arrives, so they weren't a 
 total waste.  

 On Monday, June 17, 2013 8:08:09 PM UTC-4, Michael wrote:

 Sitting totally upright on Albas with my saddle in the ususal KOPS 
 position that I had with 'staches and drops, I feel like my saddle has 
 moved forward, but it hasn't (I checked).
 Feels like I am out in front of the pedals now when pedaling -  not 
 directly over them like I felt with the low drops position with KOPS. I 
 guess when you move your weight around to a different position a lot 
 changes.
  
 Nothing bad, I'll just move the saddle back if I feel the need. But for 
 now keeping the saddle the same as long as nothing hurts.
 Just a curious thing.
  
 Did you feel this when you switched to totally upright after being used 
 to a low drops position?
  
 I am enjoying the bolt upright position a lot. Nice views. No neck/hand 
 issues either so far. I hope it will make it more comfy to wear layers in 
 the winter.
 With drops, clothes get scrunched between my belly and thighs. Upright 
 really opens up the torso. Its a nice feeling.
  
  
  
  
  

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 RBW Owners Bunch group.
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 rbw-owne...@googlegroups.comjavascript:
 .
 Visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch.
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 -- 

 http://resumespecialties.com/index.html
 patric...@resumespecialties.com javascript:

 Albuquerque, NM
  

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