Re: [RBW] Quickbeam Inaugural Ride

2014-05-18 Thread Peter Pesce
My last gen silver QB has an OLD of 120. The QR skewer that came with the 
standard Suzue hub works fine for me. 
-Pete in CT

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Re: [RBW] 3 60cm-ish Rivs and several boxes of parts for less than 2K

2014-05-11 Thread Peter Pesce
If it sounds too good to be true it probably is. 

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Re: [RBW] need club name

2014-03-23 Thread Peter Pesce
Awesome ideas all. Maybe socialite would be easier to swallow than socialist. 

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[RBW] 62 Rambouilet on ebay

2014-03-01 Thread Peter Pesce
I've seen other forums use the prefix PSA, for Public Service Announcement, to 
identify posts of things that might be of interest to the group. 

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[RBW] Bleriot Frames FS

2014-02-28 Thread Peter Pesce
Sorry if there was any confusion. I posted this hastily when I saw it for the 
benefit of the group. 
The post appeared on a Google group called Bicycle Lifestyle that Peter White 
moderates. The original post is here:
https://groups.google.com/forum/m/#!topic/bicyclelifestyle/Pgk94osMy7A

For those of you who PM'd me, I am not the seller, though my name is Peter and 
the sellers name is Peter and my post was a bit cryptic so the confusion is 
understandable. You should contact Peter White directly. 

Thanks 
Pete in CT

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[RBW] Bleriot Frames FS

2014-02-27 Thread Peter Pesce
Not mine;
Peter White peterjwh...@gmail.com Feb 27 11:22AM -0800  

Just remembered we have a couple of new Bleriot frames. 1 is a 53cm, the 
other is 61cm. $600.00 frame and fork. Plus, I'll mill the head tube and 
fork crown with the Campagnolo cutters so a headset won't wear out in a few 
months. 


Pete in CT

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[RBW] Hello

2014-02-21 Thread Peter Pesce
This was flagged as virus spam on ibob. 
Caution. 

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[RBW] Has anyone gone from drops to Albas and regretted it?

2014-02-07 Thread Peter Pesce
I think it has everything to do with your use of the bike. 
For distances I think a drop bar has proven to be pretty good. For a town bike 
ridden for fun or in traffic I like the upright posture of bars like albas. In 
an ideal world you'd have a bike or two with each. 
 I had noodles on my Sam for a while. It took me a couples of iterations to 
realize it, but eventually I leaned that I just didn't use the bike that way, 
so it has albas now and my QB commuter has similar bars. But I ride those bikes 
a few miles at a time, sometimes in a suit. 
I  currently have drops on my un-fendered Soma Double Cross that is my 
exercise bike. 

Experiment and find what works for you. 

Pete in CT

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Re: [RBW] Re: Advice/WTB: Dynamo wheel and/or light

2014-01-21 Thread Peter Pesce
I've been commuting with an SP PD8 on my Quickbeam and it has been great. I 
bought the disc version because I have another disc compatible frame I might 
switch it over to later.

I think the SP is a great choice at the sub-SON price point. 

Pete in CT

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[RBW] Quickbeam Gets Fatter - a set on Flickr

2014-01-21 Thread Peter Pesce
Nothing but 35s on my QB. Paselas, Kojaks, currently Schwalbe Marathon 
Supremes. 

Pete in CT
(Still in process of Norris-izing my QB with an S3X)

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Re: [RBW] Re: Rivendell SimpleBeam - New Model - Call for the Seriously InterestedB

2014-01-11 Thread Peter Pesce
Eric

I'm going to put a freewheel on it. The idea of having the pawls in the 
replaceable part just makes so much sense to me. I think a direct drive with 
helper gears set up will work perfectly for my commuting and utility needs. 

Pete in CT

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[RBW] Riv e-bike conversion?

2014-01-10 Thread Peter Pesce
As long as you attach it with twine it's Riv approved! 
Seriously though, I think that this new e-bike wheel retrofit thingy that's 
been on the inter webs the last few weeks seems ideal.
Personally I'd love an ebike if I could afford a Specialized Turbo (and 
Specialized weren't so evil).

Pete in CT

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Re: [RBW] Re: Rivendell SimpleBeam - New Model - Call for the Seriously InterestedB

2014-01-10 Thread Peter Pesce
I just bought an S3X for my QB commuter based (almost) entirely on Eric's 
recent and past endorsements. If it's good enough for his PBPs it's good enough 
for mine! (Btw., PBP for me stands for Pub-Bar-Pub)
After I get the wheel built and New England thaws out enough for some bike 
commuting I'll report back to the list with another data point. 

Pete in CT

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[RBW] Re: Rivendell SimpleBeam - New Model - Call for the Seriously InterestedB

2013-12-22 Thread Peter Pesce
Agreed Jim.  Wouldn't it just be easier to see if there were 30 people willing 
to pre-order an actual SO/QB? I know there's no opportunity for creative 
expression in that, but it does seem odd to try to satisfy demand for the those 
bikes with a new bike that will explicitly NOT be those bikes!  I know GP uses 
clone in a pejorative sense but to keep making a bike is not cloning it. 
Besides, aren't there business side advantages to continuing to sell, though 
perhaps on a limited, pre order basis, the bike for which you already amortized 
the tooling and development costs? 

I have a last gen silver QB and love it. If it were stolen or wrecked I'd 
seriously consider paying custom-shop money for a new one. I'm not the least 
bit interested in a NewBeam that has the chunky tube set of my Sam, double top 
tubes, or wavy gravy curved rear triangle bits. To me that bike would have 
nothing in common with a QB beyond the dropouts.

Pete in CT

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[RBW] Re: quickbeam/S.O. questions

2013-08-30 Thread Peter Pesce
I have my QB set up with the Riv-supplied double up front and a White 
Industries DOS freewheel in back. I don't use the flip side of the hub at 
the moment. It's easy to shift, but I don't shift much as my commute can be 
done in one gear and that's 99% of my riding on the QB.

I hang a pannier briefcase off a Tubus rack out back and the bike handles 
great. I don't use front cargo options much. 

I have an older set of SKS/Berthoud plastic fenders on the bike now, but 
agree with other that a pop-off rear fender mount makes life much easier 
with the horizontal dropout.

The QB/SO is a bike with a very unique and versatile spec - wide tires, 
canti brakes, lugged steel, horizontal-ish dropouts. I'm not surprised a 
recent frame on Ebay went for good money - I don't think you can get that 
combo anywhere else without going custom.

-Pete in CT

On Sunday, August 25, 2013 8:19:13 PM UTC-4, JL wrote:

 Cyclotourist's new addition has me thinking again about a singlespeed 
 commute/errand bike (I plan to keep my eye out for one at the right price 
 56 or 54cm). Right now that role is filled by my fantastic CB0, but it 
 might be a little overbuilt for that role.

 QB owners:  How does the bike handle on paved streets and fireroads with 
 medium front/rear load (something like a nitto rack with panniers and a 
 nitto front rack with a basket?)  I I have seen tour reports, etc. but it 
 has been a while.  

 Jason
 SF,CA




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Re: [RBW] messing around with my Hunqapillar

2013-08-22 Thread Peter Pesce
I have a few of these stems, some Dimension branded, some Civia, and they are 
fantastic for the price. I'd love to see more pop top quills. Pragmatics beats 
aesthetics for me most of the time. I'm currently riding two bikes with quill 
stems the wrong length because I'm  too lazy to replace the shellacked cork 
grips on them. 

Pete in CT

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Re: [RBW] why asymetric?

2013-08-03 Thread Peter Pesce
I'm thinking that a few mm one way or another just doesn't matter. Some will 
say they notice. Some will say they don't. If you can get the inner ring of 
your triple to clear then maybe it's all good. 

Btw, who ever said chain stays are always symmetrical?

- Pete in CT



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[RBW] SP PV8 Dynohub for the Ram

2013-08-02 Thread Peter Pesce
I think the SPs have been discussed a few times here and/or on the bob list. 
Lots of short term, generally positive experience, no long term. 
I've been commuting with one for a year with no issues. Can't comment on the 
notchy feel as ive never had another dyno hub. Can't feel anything while riding 
though FWIW. 

Pete in CT

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[RBW] Re: Child seat

2013-07-30 Thread Peter Pesce
I use a Yepp Mini front seat on my 60 Sam with Alba bars. I was surprised 
how little room - as in none - I have between the nose of the saddle and 
the back of the seat. I'm not slim, mind you, but I'm not that fat and I 
cannot fit between the saddle and seat to straddle the top tube. I had to 
drop my saddle way down so I can support the bike when we stop. 
Even given that challenge, I like the front seat for interaction, and it 
works fine for our short rides around the neighborhood. If you are thinking 
of more intensive trips it might be a good idea to teat a front seat first 
to see if you have fit issues.

-Pete in CT

On Tuesday, July 30, 2013 4:08:55 AM UTC-4, Michael Hechmer wrote:

 Somewhat OT, but a post to the Lifestyles list got only one response.  My 
 grandson is now old enough to ride behind his mom, and really loves it, so 
 I am thinking about getting a seat and putting it on my Trek 620.  Any 
 advice about models and use would be much appreciated.

 Michael


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[RBW] Re: Blug 7/22/13

2013-07-23 Thread Peter Pesce
I read about this reflectoring idea on Sheldon's site a while back. Don't 
recall if it was a Sheldon idea or a Jobst Brandt idea, but it sounds like 
it meets all the ideal criteria for reflectors - as much surface area as 
you want, motion, etc. As most rims are bit convex in cross section (or a 
lot, if you have Dyads or aero rims) you'd get good reflection across a 
range of angles. And if you use the white / silver DOT tape then the 
stickers would be virtually invisible on silver rims during the day. If not 
sticking out is your thing.

I've been meaning to do this for a while. Sounds like a quick easy weekend 
job.

-Pete in CT

On Tuesday, July 23, 2013 9:47:03 AM UTC-4, Michael wrote:

 I notice Anne's Dad put reflective tape ovals on the rims. I assume this 
 is so oncoming drivers will see them reflect in their headlights?
 If this works I may do it on my bike.

 Anyone know if it reflects well this way?

 BTW, that bike is beautiful. I wonder why they ever stopped making it. Or 
 is the Betty the same?



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[RBW] Bending a Silver Hupe

2013-07-16 Thread Peter Pesce
Just buy some tool dip at the hardware store and re dip them. If the colors 
don't match all the better in the Riv world. And bend them extra wide so 
they'll fit over the 2 layers of helicopter tape plus two layers of bar tape 
you'll need to keep your seat stays intact! 

Pete (Hupe-in' it up) in CT

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[RBW] Terrible News

2013-07-09 Thread Peter Pesce
via Twitter:

*ThePathLessPedaled* @*pathlesspedaled* 
https://twitter.com/pathlesspedaledhttps://twitter.com/pathlesspedaled/status/354656280192880640
 

Just found out a reader from Durham was killed in a hit and run. RIP Seth 
Vidal. http://bit.ly/1bljzbI http://t.co/Eaofzr7YnK
http://www.wral.com/bicyclist-killed-in-durham-hit-and-run/12639104/

I do not know if this is the same person who is regular here. I did not 
know him personally. The PLP video they link to features a nice guy on an 
Atlantis. (If not, my apologies for causing undue grief.)

Thoughts and prayers for his family and friends.

-Pete in CT

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Re: [RBW] Re: Regarding Seth Vidal

2013-07-09 Thread Peter Pesce
Beautiful tribute Anne. Thanks for the reminder. A nice way for us all to keep 
Seth in our thoughts. 

Pete in CT

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[RBW] Do you find you ride slower with Albas than with drops?

2013-07-07 Thread Peter Pesce
Yes, I feel a bit slower vs drops or even flat bars, but I'm much more upright, 
and comfortable, and having more fun, so who cares. 

Pete in CT

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[RBW] Crazy New Urban S240

2013-07-06 Thread Peter Pesce
I had been stymied on S24Os thus far but this is a great idea. Thanks for the 
inspiration!

Pete in CT

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[RBW] Re: Albas and Saddle Width

2013-07-03 Thread Peter Pesce
I ride a B-17 Narrow with drop bars and a B-17 regular with Albas. Provides 
just the right adjustment in width for the different postures in my case.

-Pete in CT

On Monday, July 1, 2013 5:19:32 PM UTC-4, Larry H wrote:

 I'm wondering what type (width) of Brooks Saddle people use with Albatross 
 Bars.  I've been using a B-67 on my Sam Hillborne.  RBW recommends the 
 wider saddles for upright bars.  Does anyone use the B-17 with Albas or 
 Bosco bars?  I'm not a big fan of the textured leather on the B-67.  I 
 would need to switch to a B-17 or B-72 to get non textured leather.  The 
 B-72 is a double rail saddle and would need a seat post sandwich or Nitto 
 simple seat post.

 I also don't like the creaky springs.  I don't really need a sprung saddle 
 since I'm only around 145 lbs.

 Thanks for the feedback.


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Re: [RBW] Albas and Saddle Width

2013-07-03 Thread Peter Pesce
You mock the 135, Patrick, but seriously where else can you find that much old 
world British craftsmanship concentrated in a single package? I might buy one 
for the springs-per-dollar ratio alone!

Pete in CT

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[RBW] Albas...steel or aluminum? Please help me decide...

2013-06-04 Thread Peter Pesce
I have the AL Albas on my Sam with no issues, but I'd hardly say I stress them'

Pete in CT

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Re: [RBW] Re: Appaloosa - the first of a whole new horse breed?

2013-05-08 Thread Peter Pesce
Hey Jeremy-

Do you have a pic of the Bosco bars on your QB? I moved my Albas to my Sam, 
and put Noodles on the QB, but now I want to go back to upright on the QB, 
and I'm not sure if I should get another set of Albas or try the Bosco.

Thanks!

Pete in CT

On Sunday, May 5, 2013 11:47:12 AM UTC-4, Jeremy Till wrote:

 Keven and I talked about this when I rode the Appaloosa and subsequently 
 bought some Bosco Bullmooses for my Quickbeam.  Keven reports feeling like 
 he actually has more power on his proto-appaloosa with the upright position 
 versus his earlier drop bar bikes.  After putting the Boscos on my 
 Quickbeam (coming from a relatively racy flat bar setup before, which kept 
 my back much more inclined), I can report that I feel absolutely no loss of 
 power going to full-upright, including on long, low-rpm, singlespeed 
 climbs, which you know all about, Patrick.  And in general, I feel less 
 worn out after riding the QB with the upright position versus similar rides 
 on the previous flat bars.  

 I'm also amazed at how much better the view is from up there.  I find 
 myself noticing new things, new views on rides that I've done dozens of 
 times before.  

 I should note that at least on my Quickbeam, I do run a fairly slack 
 seating position, with a Nitto S84 (40mm offset) seatpost on the QB's 72 
 deg. seat tube, so I do still have a good angle between my torso and legs 
 even when my torso is bolt upright.  As I said before, I haven't seen the 
 Appaloosa geo, but I wouldn't be surprised if the seat tube angle were 
 slightly slacker, like maybe 71 deg, than the more standard Riv designs.  

 Also, don't underestimate the number of hand/back positions that are 
 possible with these bars.  If you do need a bit of back inclination, 
 sliding your hands forward is really effective at stretching you out.  

 On Saturday, May 4, 2013 9:38:39 AM UTC-7, Patrick Moore wrote:

 One concern I have about using Albatross bars is that I fear that the 
 upright position might make me lose power (and I don't have much). I always 
 feel stronger when pushing from well behind the bb with my torso at 45* or 
 more -- I often naturally fall into the hooks when I want a bit of power up 
 a rise or against a wind -- the hooks are for power as much as aerodynamics.

 I look at old roadsters and can see that, with their hugely slack seat 
 tubes, even sitting upright you have a large bend between hips and torso. 
 How does this work with a steep 72* or 73* seat tube?

 On Sat, May 4, 2013 at 10:14 AM, Jeremy Till jerem...@gmail.com wrote:
 When I rode the proto, Keven made the comparison to engine placement in 
 a sports car.  Just going upright on a bike with normal chainstay length, 
 you end up with something like an early 80's Porsche, with the engine 
 hanging out over the rear wheels, making the front end of the car light.  
 In bikes, this becomes a problem for attacking steep climbs, since the 
 front wheel won't stay planted.  According to Keven, extending the 
 chainstays helps make things more balanced in turn and allows you to stay 
 upright with your butt planted in the saddle on climbs, rather than lean
  


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[RBW] Re: ISO Tektro or cheaper Linear long pull Interrupter Levers

2013-05-01 Thread Peter Pesce
One of the UK shops (SJS, I think) has these at a decent price. There is 
also a domestic Ebay vendor who has them every so often.

Pete in CT

On Tuesday, April 30, 2013 9:12:59 PM UTC-4, ccanter wrote:

 I need a set of these.  Riv used to sell the Tektros.  Searches only turn 
 up Paul levers which are supposedly either/ or.  I'm sure they are great 
 levers but the price is too steep for me.  Anyone know of a source for the 
 Tektros?  Did they quit making them? Anyone have a pair they aren't using?
 Best,
 Clyde Canter


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[RBW] Re: Geared bike, most like Simple One?

2013-04-15 Thread Peter Pesce
+1. I'd suspect that precisely the characteristics that give the SO/QB 
their qualities will make them a poor tourer. 

Secondy, the Atlantis is widely considered one of the nicest loaded-touring 
frames ever. If I already had an Atlantis I can't imagine I'd be looking 
for a different bike to go touring with!

However, if it really is all about fit, and not some much about ineffable 
ride qualities then you should be able to get your Atlantis to match your 
SO fit prety closely. Worst case yo might have to trade someone your 56 for 
the next size up to get a perfect match...

-Pete in CT

On Monday, April 15, 2013 10:58:10 AM UTC-4, Cyclofiend Jim wrote:

 And just to echo Joe's comment, as an AHH/Quickbeam owner, I wouldn't 
 hesitate to load the HIlsen.  And I've got them set up as Identical 
 Cousins - very similar in ride. 

 It's a tough balance to have a spry, snappy, simple bike and have it 
 behave well when loaded.  

 - Jim


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[RBW] Re: brakes for newer Hillborne frames

2013-04-15 Thread Peter Pesce
I've run both DC 750 centerpulls and Silver sidepulls on my Sam. Both work 
great. Just depends on your preference. Obviously to use center-pulls you 
need to to add cable hangers front and rear. Front is a standard piece. I 
used the Nitto keychain hanger from Riv in the back and it worked well. 

As Charlie said, in order to get the big tire/fender clearance you can't 
really use anything shorter.

-Pete in CT

On Sunday, April 14, 2013 3:16:25 PM UTC-4, Forrest wrote:

 I'm looking at the 56 cm blue single-top-tube Sam frames on the RBW site 
 and wondering which brakes they take. Are they all now the Silvers? Don't 
 seem to see any canti posts in the photos. Thanks,  -- Forrest (Chicago)




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[RBW] Re: Decent $500-$600 off the shelf bike???

2013-04-11 Thread Peter Pesce
Torker also makes some good stuff in this price range:
www.torkerusa.com/bikes/commute/


On Wednesday, April 10, 2013 4:12:26 PM UTC-4, EastBayGuy wrote:

 So my little sister is looking into getting a new/First bike. she plans on 
 going on a few S240's and will be commuting in the somewhat flat Davis, Ca 
 area. She is on a College Grad/working at Panera Budget.

 My question is does anyone have any recommendations for a decent off the 
 shelf bike that is capable of strapping some gear onto and heading into the 
 hills?

 Thanks in Advance..

 Dustin G 
 WC Ca


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[RBW] Re: Sidepull brakes versus Cantilevers

2013-04-05 Thread Peter Pesce
I've never had a bike fail to stop because of the type of brake on it. (Of 
course I don't do radical MTB stuff or descend mountain passes in the rain 
with a full touring load, so YMMV).

It's usually just comes down to clearances, aesthetics and personal 
preference.

-Pete in CT

On Thursday, April 4, 2013 2:25:22 PM UTC-4, john wrote:

 I've been searching the archives for a specific topic which I have not 
 found. Excuse me if I missed it.

 Due to the fact that an auto struck me while riding, ruining the original 
 the fork of my Sam Hillborne (with cantilever studs), I got a replacement 
 fork (Thanks Rivendell!) which didn't have the studs for canti's.

 Thus, I'm now using Tektro 559 sidepulls, rather than Tektro 720 canti's, 
 which was spec'd on the bike.

 I've read much about types of brakes, their various attributes, and etc. 
 Some argue cantilevers have more stopping power (greater mechanical 
 advantage) than sidepulls. Some argue side pulls are simple, elegant, and 
 easier to adjust. Some say, racers have been using sidepulls for years, why 
 not me? Others say neither option is the best; centerpull brakes are the 
 way to go. Then, there is the linear pull brake (V brake), which is another 
 type of cantilever, I believe. Not to mention disc brakes, both mechanical 
 and hydraulic

 Although I value statistical analysis (Bike Quarterly), I prefer to hear 
 from people who actually ride certain brakes, and what the like, and 
 dislike. I'm not enough of a tech-minded person to stay with all the detail 
 of mechanics.

 The question is this: Those of you who have used both cantilevers and 
 sidepulls on a Rivendell frame (especially on a Sam Hill, but any will do, 
 I think), which do you prefer for stopping power (not aesthetics), and why?

 That is to say, if you were to spec a new bike, and it were a road bike, 
 not intended for touring with massive loads but for day rides, multiday 
 tours, even touring any distance with less than 50 pounds, which brakes 
 would you choose, and why?

 I'm interested in knowing why Rivendell changed their choice of brakes on 
 the stock Sam Hill. from a cantilevered bike to a side pull spec'd bike. 
 Perhaps they save cost in frame production? Perhaps they prefer sidepulls? 
 Perhaps they needed to purchase many of their designed Tektro 559's in 
 order for Tektro to make them?

 In any case, I'd be curious to hear what folks have to say on the topic. 
 As for myself...I'm still on the fence. I like the sidepull's looks much 
 better. I like the ease of adjustment. I think their stopping power is not 
 as great as the cantilevers - at least compared to my Tektro 720 
 cantilevers with yokozuma pads. But they're close. Close enough? Depends on 
 how steep the hill, how much weight is on the bike, and etc., of course. In 
 the end, I know it's a very personal choice.

 Thanks.

 John



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[RBW] Re: Hillborne finds its true self

2013-04-02 Thread Peter Pesce
Same here. Had drops - Noodles and Nitto Rando - on my Sam and it was never 
quite right for my use. If I were doing a tour it might be different, but 
the way I use it the Alba bars transformed the bike, mostly by transforming 
MY attitude when I get on it. 
With the Albas (or, I'd imagine, most swept back bars) you just can't help 
but feel that you're getting on the bike to have fun. 

It's funny but the Sam went through lots of iterations, with brifters, no 
fenders, rando-bag, etc etc but it's now a textbook Riv country bike with 
lots of shiny bits, grip kings, bags galore, and it now feels just so 
right as a bike...

-Pete in CT

On Monday, April 1, 2013 12:38:22 PM UTC-4, Edwin W wrote:

 I have my 
 Hillbornehttp://www.flickr.com/photos/90785999@N06/8575250744/in/photostreamset
  up like that - Albas, Chainuard/40/24 (though I don't use the 24 and 
 don't have a front derailer yet). It does seem to be made for that. That 
 was how I first rode a Riv at Riv world HQ - a Sam with alba bars and bar 
 end shifters. That got me into my search for my first one.
  

 My usual load is my work bad in my basket up front - it is so easy. That 
 said, I went to the grocery store the other day and hauled 20 or so pounds 
 back home in a rear market pannier and it felt so stable and perfect that I 
 might have to consider putting my work bag on the back more often! Maybe 
 with 
 thesehttp://www.waldsports.com/index.cfm/wald582rearfoldingbasket.htmlWald 
 baskets? 
  
 Edwin 
  


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[RBW] Re: V-Brakes and wide 700c tires w/fenders

2013-03-06 Thread Peter Pesce
I think it's entirely frame dependent. 

I ran 55mm Big Apples (in 26' though) with big fat Planet Bike fenders and 
the standard Deore V-brakes that Riv sells (sold?) on my LHT with no 
problem. But I doubt they'd fit on my Quickbeam...

-Pete in CT

On Wednesday, March 6, 2013 7:11:52 AM UTC-5, Salween wrote:

 Any experience out there with V-brakes, fenders and tires in 700c x 50mm 
 range? One 50mm Big Ben 
 reviewerhttp://www.rivbike.com/product-p/tben.htmwas having success, but 
 was not running fenders. Anyone else? Wondering 
 what the max 700c tire-fender combo might be, and maybe the brake to go 
 with it, as this Co-Motion Java frame we're working to order will not 
 accommodate canti cabeling in the rear--not enough space given its more 
 horizontal seatstay angles. Thanks, Owen

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Re: [RBW] Re: Budget Riv? Still on the horizon?

2013-02-27 Thread Peter Pesce
I have a LHT and it too feels dead unloaded. I'm thinking it's somewhat 
related to Jan Heine's thoughts on frame flex and responsiveness. The LHT 
frame seems overly stiff unloaded, as it's built to haul, but comes to life 
(a bit, at least) for me when some weight is on it. Kind of like a pickup 
truck rides horribly when empty, but much better with a load in the bed.


-Pete in CT

On Wednesday, February 27, 2013 11:39:29 AM UTC-5, thalasin wrote:

 I really wish I could have a long-term, head-to-head ride comparison of 
 both bikes.  And maybe I had unrealistic expectations of a touring bike, 
 and maybe the fit on the LHT just wasn't right for me.  But I gave it a go 
 for 3 years and am giving up the ghost.  I have a Rambouillet, and the ride 
 on that bike is wonderful--so based on that experience and what I've read 
 from others here, I'm assuming I could expect the same out of an Atlantis.  
 I came to hate the LHT and it was absolutely no fun to ride.  It was 
 sluggish and every ride felt like a slog.  I've never actually toured on 
 it, and others have told me that's where the bike really shines.  In my 
 mind, though, if I'm slow and hating it unloaded, I can't imagine putting 
 40 lbs. of stuff on it and it being any more enjoyable.  So, like I said, 
 it's probably a combination of factors and quite possibly ignorance on my 
 part, but I'm looking for other options.
  

 On Wednesday, February 27, 2013 9:24:20 AM UTC-7, Patrick Moore wrote:

 Tracy -- asking to add more data to my store: what exactly do you find 
 absent in the ride of the LHT that you find in Rivendells' ride (= 
 comfort?) and handling?

 I'd love to have a Riv ride mated to my Fargo, whose handling is 
 mediocre, but I put up with the Fargo for its other virtues. (Note one 
 exception: I find that the Fargo does handle heavy rear loads better than 
 the Sam Hill.)

 On Wed, Feb 27, 2013 at 9:19 AM, thalasin thal...@yahoo.com wrote:

 I'd be all in for a budget version of the Atlantis, as that's the bike 
 I've always wanted but just can't afford.  I tried to make do with a LHT, 
 but I never liked the bike and am getting rid of it.  It's the Rivendell 
 ride I'm in search of, so if it actually comes to fruition, I'm in without 
 hesitation.
 Tracy 

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 -
 Patrick Moore, Albuquerque, NM, USA
 For professional resumes, contact Patrick Moore, ACRW
 http://resumespecialties.com/index.html
 -
  


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Re: [RBW] Re: Budget Riv? Still on the horizon?

2013-02-26 Thread Peter Pesce
Agreed. Ugh.

In the quest to make a budget Riv, what exactly are the qualities they 
are trying to deliver at a budget price, and what exactly can be given up 
to get there? 

If you are trying to deliver the Riv ride and fit, great. Then do it in a 
form that allows you to deliver those qualities in a less expensive 
package, like a TIG-ed, powder coated frame. 
If you are just trying to deliver lugs, then you'll eventually hit a floor 
on labor, even if you use the cheapest tubes possible. But still, if you 
want lugs-for-all, cheap, then go for it.

If you are trying to deliver everything, but just cheaper, then you can't. 
That's why there's no $30k Ferrari. I think that at least some small part 
of Riv's appeal is that they are nice bikes to a degree, that people are 
proud to own. I don't see how a rattle-can-it-yourself frame fits into that 
brand image. If paint is the only thing you can imagine giving up, then 
maybe you just can't do it.

It wouldn't surprise me if RBW has reached the same conclusion.

-Pete in CT



On Monday, February 25, 2013 8:11:26 PM UTC-5, Fullylugged wrote:

 Ugh...

 On Mon, Feb 25, 2013 at 10:50 AM, redsydude thau...@q.com 
 javascript:wrote:

 I think in 2011 their idea was to  spray paint the frame for a few 
 dollars to make it look old and increase its theftproofedness.  




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[RBW] Re: Front Rack ideas

2013-02-25 Thread Peter Pesce
Not sure how the 25lb pack thing is relevant. The OP said he wanted to 
carry a case of beer on his front rack.



On Monday, February 25, 2013 10:02:55 AM UTC-5, Ron Mc wrote:

 I have really enjoyed the links and references on this thread.  Throwing 
 out a usage consideration, though.  It's entirely possible to live two 
 weeks out of a 25-lb. pack.  So, messengers notwithstanding, what is a 
 real-world capacity requirement for a front rack?  For me, a min-sized 
 front rack, 11-liter rando bag with Bertoud decaleur covers all 
 my foreseen needs.  Certainly not the biggest bang for the buck, but 
 convenient, and even classy.  

 On Monday, February 25, 2013 8:28:40 AM UTC-6, Matthew J wrote:

 Pass Stow Rack meets every criteria save price - even price is fine if 
 you consider quality, utility and durability.
 On Friday, February 22, 2013 12:07:36 PM UTC-6, Edwin W wrote: 

 I am working on a Sam Hillborne build. I got a used 60cm single top tube 
 sidepull brake edition (thanks Jim M!).
 I am trying to keep this build on a strict budget, which is tough.
 I wanted to hear from your ideas to solve the following problems:

1. I have a Soma mini front 
 rackhttp://store.somafab.com/somialfrra.html, 
with a Wald 139 zip tied on, but it is too short to clear 38mm tires and 
fenders. I have it p-clambed to my current bike and that works ok, but 
feels more wobbly than if it were bolted on, I think. Is there a way to 
extend the legs? I was thinking of a connector between the rack and 
 eyelet, 
but I think a joint there would be prone to flex with weight. 
2. The Mark's rack would be great in theory, but expensive and only 
is expected to take 4.4 pounds. 
3. Anyone had any experience with this dutch 
 rackhttp://www.dutchbikebits.com/index.php?route=product/productpath=38product_id=187?
  
They sell it in the US 
 herehttp://rollingorangebikes.com/front-carrier-steco/. 
Shipping/importing makes it pricey. Pros - sturdy as heck. Cons - a bit 
overbuilt? Damage to headtube? 
4. I looked at these racks from 
 Racktimehttp://www.ebikestop.com/racktime_topit_universal_front_mount_rack_silver-RK7206.php?PARTNER=GOOGPSgclid=CMz2mIe8yrUCFQ7NnAodaWcAhA.
  
Never heard of that seller. All the 
 pictureshttp://www.flickr.com/photos/geiranders/5134857957/in/photostream/I
  have seen set them pretty high. Anybody used one on a Sam? How are the 
Sam mid-fork braze-ons in terms of height compared to other 
 manufacturers? 

 Thishttp://twosixteen.com/fivetoedsloth/2010/10/top-racks-and-mid-fork-bosses/review
  of racks says Rivendell's are higher than others. True? 
5. Reading that review made me look at this 
 Blackburnhttp://www.blackburndesign.com/racks/front-racks/mtf-1-front.html.
  
Anybody used that with Riv mid forks? 
6. I looked at Jenny's Hilsen on the staff bikes page and she said 
she used this Sun-Lite QR 
 rackhttp://sunlitecycling.com/product_detail.php?short_code=QR-TEC+Front+Rackcl1=RACKS+FOR+BIKES-
  I'd rather bolt it than use up the quick release, as it would then no 
longer release, quickly! 
7. General considerations 
   1. Price 
   2. Weight (not of the rack, but capability - I usually throw my 
   work bag in there and sometimes up to a case of beer - 20-30lb) 
   3. Can I attach a front headlight? I am loving the BM IQ fly RT 
   from Peter White. 
   4. And of course quality and longevity, but I have had basic 
   cheap racks last a long time in my daily commute needs.
8. I think the new Sam's have two eyelets on each side up front, 
which would probably have solved everything!

 Other suggestions? 
 Herehttp://www.flickr.com/photos/90785999@N06/8497462361/in/photostreamis 
 a picture of where I am, mid-build.
  
 Thanks in advance. 
  
 Edwin building a Sam on a tight budget 
 Nashville, TN



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[RBW] Re: Front Rack ideas

2013-02-25 Thread Peter Pesce
Minh, 

I personally don't really like front loads, perhaps because I've never 
tried it on a bike optimized for it. 

I've tried baskets. rando bags. even the platrack/slickersack combo, but I 
particularly dislike the way the front wheel flops over as soon as you put 
a load on it.

The only thing of substance I carry in front any more is my dog, in a wald 
basket strapped to a CETMA rack. Since he's small enough to fit in the 
basket, he's also small enough to lift up after I've straddled my bike and 
stabilized the bars to load him in. It's a pain, but I don't have to do it 
that often.

-Pete in CT

On Monday, February 25, 2013 12:23:34 PM UTC-5, Minh wrote:

 Peter P.

 He mentions in the original post 20-30lbs (not sure how a case of beer 
 equates 20-30lbs but he did mention it).

 I think this is a great thread to illustrate all the options for a front 
 rack, but i question the motivation of cheap and strong and good looking.  
 I read a mixed set of motivations here, you can find an affordable option 
 like the blackburn, but if you're the type of person to think what-if down 
 the road, i suggest just going with the pass  stow, the paul's  etc to 
 settle that lingering doubt.  if deep down you want one of those go for 
 it.  

 PS.  have you actually carried 20-30lbs on the front of your bike that 
 high?  i have a nitto big front and don't even try to carry that much!  

 On Friday, February 22, 2013 1:07:36 PM UTC-5, Edwin W wrote:

 I am working on a Sam Hillborne build. I got a used 60cm single top tube 
 sidepull brake edition (thanks Jim M!).
 I am trying to keep this build on a strict budget, which is tough.
 I wanted to hear from your ideas to solve the following problems:

1. I have a Soma mini front 
 rackhttp://store.somafab.com/somialfrra.html, 
with a Wald 139 zip tied on, but it is too short to clear 38mm tires and 
fenders. I have it p-clambed to my current bike and that works ok, but 
feels more wobbly than if it were bolted on, I think. Is there a way to 
extend the legs? I was thinking of a connector between the rack and 
 eyelet, 
but I think a joint there would be prone to flex with weight.
2. The Mark's rack would be great in theory, but expensive and only 
is expected to take 4.4 pounds.
3. Anyone had any experience with this dutch 
 rackhttp://www.dutchbikebits.com/index.php?route=product/productpath=38product_id=187?
  
They sell it in the US 
 herehttp://rollingorangebikes.com/front-carrier-steco/. 
Shipping/importing makes it pricey. Pros - sturdy as heck. Cons - a bit 
overbuilt? Damage to headtube?
4. I looked at these racks from 
 Racktimehttp://www.ebikestop.com/racktime_topit_universal_front_mount_rack_silver-RK7206.php?PARTNER=GOOGPSgclid=CMz2mIe8yrUCFQ7NnAodaWcAhA.
  
Never heard of that seller. All the 
 pictureshttp://www.flickr.com/photos/geiranders/5134857957/in/photostream/I
  have seen set them pretty high. Anybody used one on a Sam? How are the 
Sam mid-fork braze-ons in terms of height compared to other 
 manufacturers? 

 Thishttp://twosixteen.com/fivetoedsloth/2010/10/top-racks-and-mid-fork-bosses/review
  of racks says Rivendell's are higher than others. True?
5. Reading that review made me look at this 
 Blackburnhttp://www.blackburndesign.com/racks/front-racks/mtf-1-front.html.
  
Anybody used that with Riv mid forks?
6. I looked at Jenny's Hilsen on the staff bikes page and she said 
she used this Sun-Lite QR 
 rackhttp://sunlitecycling.com/product_detail.php?short_code=QR-TEC+Front+Rackcl1=RACKS+FOR+BIKES-
  I'd rather bolt it than use up the quick release, as it would then no 
longer release, quickly!
7. General considerations
   1. Price
   2. Weight (not of the rack, but capability - I usually throw my 
   work bag in there and sometimes up to a case of beer - 20-30lb)
   3. Can I attach a front headlight? I am loving the BM IQ fly RT 
   from Peter White.
   4. And of course quality and longevity, but I have had basic cheap 
   racks last a long time in my daily commute needs.
8. I think the new Sam's have two eyelets on each side up front, 
which would probably have solved everything!

 Other suggestions? 
 Herehttp://www.flickr.com/photos/90785999@N06/8497462361/in/photostreamis 
 a picture of where I am, mid-build.
  
 Thanks in advance. 
  
 Edwin building a Sam on a tight budget 
 Nashville, TN



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[RBW] Re: FS Feeler 63cm Roadeo RCP

2013-02-25 Thread Peter Pesce
Oh boy. My size and the right price. 

Well, the frame is the right price at least. But if I bought it the 
resulting divorce would be very costly!

-Pete in CT

On Monday, February 25, 2013 1:34:37 PM UTC-5, rperks wrote:

 As described below, this is a great bike that needs to find a new home. 
  Update to the previous post with pictures here:

 http://www.flickr.com/photos/rperks1/sets/72157632857361800/

 I am asking $1200 for the frame fork and Stronglight A9 headset with a 
 replacement set of bearings.  I will install a new cable guide on the 
 bottom bracket and can put on a new clear chain stay protector at your 
 request.

 For those curios on how the RCP has held up over the years of riding on 
 the coast, you can see the photo set from when it was new here: 

 http://www.flickr.com/photos/rperks1/sets/72157622875811028/

 Thanks for taking a look

 Rob
 oceanaircycles.com
 Ventura, Ca



 On Tuesday, February 12, 2013 4:03:30 PM UTC-8, rperks wrote:

 I have not been riding my Roadeo at all this year, it has actually been 
 hanging as a frame set since I pirated many of the components off of it for 
 another project.  It is a great bike, but I am at a point where I am 
 thinking of letting it go for the cash flow.  Structurally it is perfect.  
 There was a mishap with a roof rack clamp and the fork, that was repaired 
 by waterford and is good as new.  The down side of the repair was the clear 
 powder came apart on the fork.  I treated it with T9 regularly, and it only 
 saw fair weather duty her in SoCal until my next project was ready, and 
 there is a bit of surface rust, but nothing deep.  The RCP held up pretty 
 well, but there are also some visible areas of pitting.  The bike is a true 
 candidate for a repaint.

 All that considered I am thinking $1200 could get it out of my workspace, 
 you get a great bike, and can get it painted any way you like and still 
 come out hundreds less than a new one

 I will be setting my photo studio back up in a couple of days and will 
 shoot a detailed set of the bike if there is any interest.

 -- 
 Rob Perks
 oceanaircycles.com
 Ventura, Ca
  



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[RBW] Re: new photos of Sam sporting center pull brakes

2013-02-24 Thread Peter Pesce
Some pics of my Sam with center pulls 

http://flic.kr/s/aHsjE6pq6F

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[RBW] Re: Front Rack ideas

2013-02-24 Thread Peter Pesce
I second CETMA. Solid stuff. I have one on my commuter. 

Pete in CT

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Re: [RBW] Re: Budget Riv? Still on the horizon?

2013-02-24 Thread Peter Pesce
The Soma Stanyan is lugged and about $750 IIRC. I'm guessing that's pretty much 
the floor for a decent lugged frame. 

Pete in CT

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[RBW] Re: new photos of Sam sporting center pull brakes

2013-02-23 Thread Peter Pesce
I don't find the difference in stopping power, only lever feel. The long 
tektros result on more squish at the lever for me, even though the centerpulls 
technically have more parts and joints to impart play. 
I've never had a bike not stop due to brake system choice. But I dont ride in 
technical or demanding (loaded touring descents down mountain passes) 
conditions either. So YMMV. The current iteration of my Sam is a pure country 
bike with alba bars. The tektro sidepulls work fine in that config. 

Pete in CT

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[RBW] Re: new photos of Sam sporting center pull brakes

2013-02-22 Thread Peter Pesce
I had DC 750 centerpulls on my side-pull Sam for a while. (Pics are 
around here somewhere. Will post) They worked really well, looked nice (i'm 
a sucker for symmetry) and cleared a 45mm fender and 35mm Pasela with ease. 
The rear cable hanger must be improvised, obviously, so I used one of the 
Nitto ones that Riv sells. 

Bike has gone through a few iterations since and now has Tektro sidepulls. 
They both work. I'm currently more fond of the less-hardware look of the 
sidepulls, but that's just changing tastes. 

-Pete in CT



On Friday, February 22, 2013 1:28:45 PM UTC-5, Jim Thill - Hiawatha Cyclery 
wrote:

 It is good looking. It's nice to see how much reach those brakes have 
 since I'm using them for a build where max reach will be important. I think 
 it's about 75 mm max. Looks like it's set at minimum reach in front, but 
 closer to middle-reach in back, which is actually consistent with the 
 blue/cream 60 cm Sam I have here. GP has been known to be serious about 
 brake even-ness, but I suppose it's one of those dimensions that can be 
 compromised a little for the greater good. In this case, I doubt it affects 
 anything.

 Here's an orange one from a couple years ago that seems to be more 
 brake-even.
 http://www.flickr.com/photos/twowheelflight/4860314027



 On Wednesday, February 20, 2013 1:52:50 PM UTC-6, Christopher Miller 
 Rosales wrote:

 That whole build is just plain beautiful to me! Interesting to see that 
 it's actually up for sale, I wish I had the funds.

 Any reason to go center-pulls? More clearance/power/modulation?

 Chris
 Berkeley, CA



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Re: [RBW] Quickbeam/Simple One Gearing Ranges?

2013-01-29 Thread Peter Pesce
There seem to be two kinds of strategy with the 2x2 set ups. Some, like 
Colin, go for essentially two gears, as far apart a practical keeping the 
matched tooth difference. He's done a TON more riding than I have with this 
set up so it's obviously very effective!

Others try to get 3 or 4 different ratios out of the 2x2. 3 is pretty easy, 
but getting a 4th useful ratio while staying within the 8 tooth range of 
the QB/SO dropout is tough. 

Does anyone have a 2x2 set-up with 4 useful gears within the 8 tooth range?

-Pete in CT


On Monday, January 28, 2013 11:18:43 PM UTC-5, Colin B. wrote:

 I've ridden 2x2 fixed for touring since 2007 - first an IRO Rob Roy 
 and now a Simple One. I've done cross country and some significant 
 tours on both coasts with this setup. 

 I'm a fan of the widest spaced Surly Dingle (17/21) and when using it 
 I match the tooth difference on a double up front (ex.: 44/40) so the 
 wheel doesn't move when I switch between two useable gear 
 combinations, ex.: 44/17 (high) and 40/21 (low). The White Industries 
 Dos is as similar concept but a freewheel. 

 Surly Dingle (fixed): http://surlybikes.com/parts/dingle_cog 
 White Dos (freewheel): 
 http://www.whiteind.com/singlespeedgearing/freewheels.html 

 With the Dingle and a matched-tooth-difference double gear changes are 
 quite fast. (You don't need to flip the wheel and won't need to adjust 
 the brakes.) 

 In practice, you can have a wider range or more than two useable gears 
 going the 2x2 route, but accomplishing these things is a bit more 
 fiddly than my set up, and w/r/t touring I resist fiddly-ness. 

 Up front, 42/38 is the sweet spot for me for loaded touring. This 
 gives me 68 and 49. The idea is that the high gear is for 98% of the 
 time. The low gear is for when you're heading north in Glacier on a 
 long day, or nursing an injury. (Or if you're less religious or dumb 
 than me, save your knees and use the low gear whenever appropriate.) 

 The hardest part of this setup is getting the chainline perfect in 
 both gear combinations - if you worry about those sorts of things. 

 Overall, highly recommended. 


 On Mon, Jan 28, 2013 at 8:24 PM, Eric Daume eric...@gmail.comjavascript: 
 wrote: 
  I believe the QB (and by extension the SO) can handle up to an eight 
 tooth 
  cog difference. So you could for instance use a 32/40 and 16/19 White 
  Industries hub to get four gears (I do this on my QB wannabe Surly 
  Crosscheck, but it's only good up to six teeth--I run 34/40 x 16/19 on 
 that) 
  
  Eric Daume 
  Dublin OH 
  
  On Mon, Jan 28, 2013 at 7:22 PM, allenmichael 
  allenm...@mac.comjavascript: 
 wrote: 
  
  Currently, I have a S1 set up simply with one in the front and one in 
  the back. I'm not sure how many gear inches I have but it handles 
 moderate 
  hills in San Francisco comfortably and isn't too slow on the flats. I'm 
  wondering though about whether I could set up the bike with 
 two-in-front and 
  two-in-back, put on a moderate load, and ride it as far as San Diego or 
 Los 
  Angeles from here. 
  
  Thanks in advance. 
  
  Michael Allen 
  
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Re: [RBW] Quickbeam/Simple One Gearing Ranges?

2013-01-29 Thread Peter Pesce
One thing that has always appealed to me about Rivs was their versatility. 
I like that the bikes allow for opportunities, enable multiple 
possibilities, rather than dictate or limit them. Yes, a true single-speed 
is perhaps more pure, but I really appreciate that Grant hit upon the 
idea that a one-at-a-time-speed bike offers essentially all the 
advantages of an only-one-ever-speed bike while providing more 
versatility. And nothing about it detracts from setting it up as a pure 
single if that's what you want.

Pete in CT

On Tuesday, January 29, 2013 1:31:04 PM UTC-5, Patrick Moore wrote:

 I think it is strange to buy a SS and try to get a range of multiple gears 
 out of it. OTOH, I can see rigging a ss with two ratios, one for road and 
 one for off road: the Dingle cog is excellent for that. I'd love to have a 
 light, ss 29er with, say, a 39X17/21 for a 67 on-road gear and a 54 
 off-road gear. One day, God willing.

 While I think multiple sprocket and cog combos on what is designed as a ss 
 is odd, I do sympathize with the conflicting desires for simplicity and 
 multiple speeds. IMO, the good ol' AW is the way to go. Long ago, short of 
 cash after buying my first decent road bike, I hacked an off roader out of 
 a horrible Schwinn 3 speed with a 36 ring and an 18 cog. With the roughly 
 26 wheels, this gave me gears of 39, 52, and 69 inches which suited me 
 (this was almost 25 years ago when I was young and buff) off road. (I 
 remember riding with my flame at the time over a jeep track with multiple 
 stream crossings and enjoying watching the water flow into and out of the 
 rear hub. It continued to work fine until I finally abandoned the bike near 
 a dumpster with the usual free to good home sign.


 On Tue, Jan 29, 2013 at 7:33 AM, Peter Pesce pete...@gmail.comjavascript:
  wrote:

 There seem to be two kinds of strategy with the 2x2 set ups. Some, like 
 Colin, go for essentially two gears, as far apart a practical keeping the 
 matched tooth difference. He's done a TON more riding than I have with this 
 set up so it's obviously very effective!

 Others try to get 3 or 4 different ratios out of the 2x2. 3 is pretty 
 easy, but getting a 4th useful ratio while staying within the 8 tooth range 
 of the QB/SO dropout is tough. 

 Does anyone have a 2x2 set-up with 4 useful gears within the 8 tooth 
 range?

 -Pete in CT


 On Monday, January 28, 2013 11:18:43 PM UTC-5, Colin B. wrote:

 I've ridden 2x2 fixed for touring since 2007 - first an IRO Rob Roy 
 and now a Simple One. I've done cross country and some significant 
 tours on both coasts with this setup. 

 I'm a fan of the widest spaced Surly Dingle (17/21) and when using it 
 I match the tooth difference on a double up front (ex.: 44/40) so the 
 wheel doesn't move when I switch between two useable gear 
 combinations, ex.: 44/17 (high) and 40/21 (low). The White Industries 
 Dos is as similar concept but a freewheel. 

 Surly Dingle (fixed): 
 http://surlybikes.com/parts/**dingle_coghttp://surlybikes.com/parts/dingle_cog
  
 White Dos (freewheel): 
 http://www.whiteind.com/**singlespeedgearing/freewheels.**htmlhttp://www.whiteind.com/singlespeedgearing/freewheels.html
  

 With the Dingle and a matched-tooth-difference double gear changes are 
 quite fast. (You don't need to flip the wheel and won't need to adjust 
 the brakes.) 

 In practice, you can have a wider range or more than two useable gears 
 going the 2x2 route, but accomplishing these things is a bit more 
 fiddly than my set up, and w/r/t touring I resist fiddly-ness. 

 Up front, 42/38 is the sweet spot for me for loaded touring. This 
 gives me 68 and 49. The idea is that the high gear is for 98% of the 
 time. The low gear is for when you're heading north in Glacier on a 
 long day, or nursing an injury. (Or if you're less religious or dumb 
 than me, save your knees and use the low gear whenever appropriate.) 

 The hardest part of this setup is getting the chainline perfect in 
 both gear combinations - if you worry about those sorts of things. 

 Overall, highly recommended. 


 On Mon, Jan 28, 2013 at 8:24 PM, Eric Daume eric...@gmail.com wrote: 
  I believe the QB (and by extension the SO) can handle up to an eight 
 tooth 
  cog difference. So you could for instance use a 32/40 and 16/19 White 
  Industries hub to get four gears (I do this on my QB wannabe Surly 
  Crosscheck, but it's only good up to six teeth--I run 34/40 x 16/19 on 
 that) 
  
  Eric Daume 
  Dublin OH 
  
  On Mon, Jan 28, 2013 at 7:22 PM, allenmichael allenm...@mac.com 
 wrote: 
  
  Currently, I have a S1 set up simply with one in the front and one 
 in 
  the back. I'm not sure how many gear inches I have but it handles 
 moderate 
  hills in San Francisco comfortably and isn't too slow on the flats. 
 I'm 
  wondering though about whether I could set up the bike with 
 two-in-front and 
  two-in-back, put on a moderate load, and ride it as far as San Diego 
 or Los 
  Angeles

Re: [RBW] Quickbeam/Simple One Gearing Ranges?

2013-01-29 Thread Peter Pesce
Here in CT our hills tend to be relatively short and nasty, and I can't 
ride very far without hitting one. So the ability to shift is helpful if I 
want to go on a longer ride or explore new roads. I have a couple of 15 
mile routes that I can do in one gear, and I ride them frequently as I 
rarely have more than an hour to ride anyway, but longer than that and I'd 
need to climb something. Also, my local roads tend to be narrow and winding 
with no shoulder. I feel less safe (rationally or not) pushing a bike up a 
hill in that scenario than I do riding it. 

That said, I can do my normal 3 mile commute in one gear, so that, plus my 
typical short, flat routes means I probably only shift on one in ten rides. 
But if I limited myself to what I use 90% of the time I wouldn't need more 
then one bike, or a fly rod, or a 35mm film camera, or an espresso machine. 
And what's the fun in that?  So I surely could get away with one speed, but 
having the options has no down side to me so why not have them? And there's 
always the fantasy of the someday, future Quickbeam credit card tour around 
New England...

On Tuesday, January 29, 2013 2:03:16 PM UTC-5, Patrick Moore wrote:

 True; one man's strange is another man's this is great!. Pursuing this 
 thread: Those of you who have such dual ring/dual cog setups: how often do 
 you shift, and when? I know that, with a flip flop and even a Dingle -- all 
 my fixies have either a cog on each side or a Dingle -- I often, when faced 
 with a climb or wind that is uncomfortable, think of the hassle of 
 loosening the nut or bolt, moving the chain, etc., and say, forget it and 
 just get off and walk. QR axles would certainly help. I'm curious how 
 others use their multiple fixed gears.

 On Tue, Jan 29, 2013 at 11:53 AM, Peter Pesce pete...@gmail.comjavascript:
  wrote:

 One thing that has always appealed to me about Rivs was their 
 versatility. I like that the bikes allow for opportunities, enable multiple 
 possibilities, rather than dictate or limit them. Yes, a true single-speed 
 is perhaps more pure, but I really appreciate that Grant hit upon the 
 idea that a one-at-a-time-speed bike offers essentially all the 
 advantages of an only-one-ever-speed bike while providing more 
 versatility. And nothing about it detracts from setting it up as a pure 
 single if that's what you want.

 Pete in CT

 On Tuesday, January 29, 2013 1:31:04 PM UTC-5, Patrick Moore wrote:

 I think it is strange to buy a SS and try to get a range of multiple 
 gears out of it. OTOH, I can see rigging a ss with two ratios, one for road 
 and one for off road: the Dingle cog is excellent for that. I'd love to 
 have a light, ss 29er with, say, a 39X17/21 for a 67 on-road gear and a 54 
 off-road gear. One day, God willing.

 While I think multiple sprocket and cog combos on what is designed as a 
 ss is odd, I do sympathize with the conflicting desires for simplicity and 
 multiple speeds. IMO, the good ol' AW is the way to go. Long ago, short of 
 cash after buying my first decent road bike, I hacked an off roader out of 
 a horrible Schwinn 3 speed with a 36 ring and an 18 cog. With the roughly 
 26 wheels, this gave me gears of 39, 52, and 69 inches which suited me 
 (this was almost 25 years ago when I was young and buff) off road. (I 
 remember riding with my flame at the time over a jeep track with multiple 
 stream crossings and enjoying watching the water flow into and out of the 
 rear hub. It continued to work fine until I finally abandoned the bike near 
 a dumpster with the usual free to good home sign.


 On Tue, Jan 29, 2013 at 7:33 AM, Peter Pesce pete...@gmail.com wrote:

 There seem to be two kinds of strategy with the 2x2 set ups. Some, like 
 Colin, go for essentially two gears, as far apart a practical keeping the 
 matched tooth difference. He's done a TON more riding than I have with 
 this 
 set up so it's obviously very effective!

 Others try to get 3 or 4 different ratios out of the 2x2. 3 is pretty 
 easy, but getting a 4th useful ratio while staying within the 8 tooth 
 range 
 of the QB/SO dropout is tough. 

 Does anyone have a 2x2 set-up with 4 useful gears within the 8 tooth 
 range?

 -Pete in CT


 On Monday, January 28, 2013 11:18:43 PM UTC-5, Colin B. wrote:

 I've ridden 2x2 fixed for touring since 2007 - first an IRO Rob Roy 
 and now a Simple One. I've done cross country and some significant 
 tours on both coasts with this setup. 

 I'm a fan of the widest spaced Surly Dingle (17/21) and when using it 
 I match the tooth difference on a double up front (ex.: 44/40) so the 
 wheel doesn't move when I switch between two useable gear 
 combinations, ex.: 44/17 (high) and 40/21 (low). The White Industries 
 Dos is as similar concept but a freewheel. 

 Surly Dingle (fixed): 
 http://surlybikes.com/parts/**di**ngle_coghttp://surlybikes.com/parts/dingle_cog
  
 White Dos (freewheel): 
 http://www.whiteind.com/**single**speedgearing/freewheels.**htmlhttp

Re: [RBW] Re: Okay I get it now.

2013-01-28 Thread Peter Pesce
One advantage of the front-mount solution to consider is that having your 
dog in front of you will allow you to talk to and pet him/her etc and thus 
help ease any anxiety. I have trianed my 15 lb terrier to ride happily in a 
front wald basket (either rack-supported or with the wald struts -he's too 
heavy for any cantilever or hanging options) and being able to pet him and 
give him encouragement - I actually fed him small treats every few minutes 
in our first rides around the block - was a huge help in getting him 
comfortable.

-Pete in CT

On Monday, January 28, 2013 2:04:56 PM UTC-5, Patrick Moore wrote:

 Thanks. I actually bought a discount Herse a couple of years ago and got a 
 big rack and custom bag to carry Nico, but he didn't like it and I found 
 that I didn't like the big front rack and front loading -- even on a Herse. 
 The Timbuktu looks like a very good solution since (1) I don't need a 
 dedicated bike setup and (2) I hear that animals feel more secure if they 
 are nestled against you back. (Nico is an emotional wimp, trained killer or 
 no.) Am planning to try it.

 On Mon, Jan 28, 2013 at 10:54 AM, Paul paulgc...@gmail.com 
 javascript:wrote:

 These things exist: http://www.pets2bed.com/site/1405195/product/FLM-02

 I found one at a yard sale and haven't used it to cary a dog (mine weighs 
 45 lbs) but it seems pretty stable and comes on and off the bike easily. 
 Just a couple straps around the handlebars, and there is this support thing 
 that just rests against the head tube.

 That website has an entire category for these things: 
 http://www.pets2bed.com/site/1405195/page/888771

 Paul


 On Monday, January 28, 2013 11:40:45 AM UTC-5, Patrick Moore wrote:

 That's cute. Segue-ing violently: How have any of y'all carried ~ 8 lb 
 animals on your bikes? I'd like to find a way to carry my trained 
 attack/guard Chihuahua (who pees in fright when I come to take him to the 
 car) on my bikes.

 On Mon, Jan 28, 2013 at 9:31 AM, Ron Mc bulld...@gmail.com wrote:

  everyone should have a chifferobe on their bike. 


 https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-Q6mnvf5jCuQ/UP_57ZBzwwI/AbM/yxh3ehF8fcw/s1600/aP1180003.jpg
 Even my cat likes it

 On Monday, January 28, 2013 9:58:27 AM UTC-6, Cyclofiend Jim wrote:

 On Monday, January 28, 2013 6:53:02 AM UTC-8, Ron Mc wrote:

 something I discovered pedaling into the teeth of a beating south 
 wind this weekend - a tall rando bag acts as a faring, and reduces drag. 
  Seriously, it directs the wind flow and  reduces the parachute effect 
 of 
 your torso and thighs.  It was also a great place to stuff my layers as 
 the 
 day and I both warmed up.  


 IIRC, there was an early BQ which did a low speed wind tunnel test of 
 various set ups. ahhh - here ya go:

 http://janheine.wordpress.com/2012/05/02/aerodynamics-of-**rea**
 l-world-bicycles/http://janheine.wordpress.com/2012/05/02/aerodynamics-of-real-world-bicycles/

 - J

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 -- 

 -
 Patrick Moore, Albuquerque, NM, USA
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Re: [RBW] Quickbeam/Simple One Gearing Ranges?

2013-01-28 Thread Peter Pesce
I have the 40/32 and 16/19 on my QB and have a couple of observations. First, I 
run the 40/16 most of the time and can climb much more than I ever thought 
possible in that range. Second, the 32/19 feels much lower than i thought it 
would. Also, you can always put a 22 on the flip side of the Dos as a bail out 
option. If you need lower than that then just walk. I've found that large part 
of the QB ethos amounts to becoming one with just get over it!

Pete in CT

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[RBW] Re: And the winner is...

2013-01-03 Thread Peter Pesce
Congrats! Have fun with it!

(... and now back to reality for me!)

-Pete in CT

On Thursday, January 3, 2013 1:00:56 PM UTC-5, Joe Bernard wrote:

 Liesl Chatman!!

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[RBW] Re: What's your raffle entry consist of, and what are your plans for the prize?

2012-12-17 Thread Peter Pesce
I've got a pair of Marathon Supremes, a new Noddle, and some Not-So-Tights, 
plus random other stuff. I thought of going the gift certificate route, but 
prefer to get stuff in the mail as opposed to promises of future stuff. 

My custom would probably be a Roadeo-lmost set up to fit 650b with long 
reach sidepulls or 700c with standard reach. (According to the math it 
should work, if you're not worrying about fenders. There could be some 
catch I haven't though of, though.)

-Pete in CT

On Sunday, December 16, 2012 6:58:13 PM UTC-5, cbone97 wrote:

 A bit of fun since surely I'm not the only one who's been prompted to 
 enter a $300 order this month and tempted to dream of what I'll ask 
 Grant to cook up for me if I win. 

 My order (placing tonight, destination is a V.O. Polyvalent I scored 
 on fleabay.): 

 2 Conti 650b 54mm tires 
 2 tubes for 'em 
 1 55 cm cromo Bosco bar 
 8 sp cassette, 11-32t 
 Sugino XD2, wide/low double 
 2 corks 
 total: $300.00 


 My prize request: 
 650b fat-tire capable love child of Bosco Rubbe (general tube 
 configuration) and AHH (paint color / job, geometry elegance) 



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Re: [RBW] Where have all the Riv-diamond braze-ons gone?

2012-12-09 Thread Peter Pesce
My QB, bafflingly, doesn't even have a proper fender boss on the rear brake 
bridge. Everything is built to a price. (That being said, the QB is a dream of 
a bike and I'd be happy with it even if it had one fork leg and no seat tube!)

-Pete in CT 

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[RBW] Re: Custom Frame Raffle

2012-12-07 Thread Peter Pesce
+1 on Andrew's query. Does a gift cert count? 
Also, do you get the 5% rebate on gift certificates you purchase? (I'm 
pretty sure there's no rebate on GC's when you redeem them, but correct me 
if I'm wrong)

-Pete in CT


On Friday, December 7, 2012 1:46:15 PM UTC-5, BSWP wrote:

 That would also solve the problem where things one might wish to buy now, 
 toward the raffle, are on backorder. Does anyone from RBW wish to clarify 
 if a $300 gift certificate is acccepted as a raffle entry?

 - Andrew, Berkeley

 On Thursday, December 6, 2012 12:05:05 PM UTC-8, William wrote:

 Even a person who doesn't need anything at the moment should buy themself 
 a $300 gift certificate.  Buy the $300 Gift Certificate, hand it to your 
 wife and tell her This is what I want for Christmas.  It's perfect!

 On Wednesday, December 5, 2012 9:15:37 PM UTC-8, BSWP wrote:

 That would be a Mountain Fixte!

 I'm looking at what I can justify, seeing if it will come to $300

 - Andrew, Berkeley

 On Wednesday, December 5, 2012 11:57:47 AM UTC-8, Philip Williamson 
 wrote:

 I'd do a version of that Mountain Fixie that was such a troublesome 
 truck. Basically a fixed gear fool-around-in-the-woods bike. Able to take 
 60mm Big Apples and fenders, like a super-attractive version of my 
 industrial-ugly Gravel 
 Roadsterhttp://www.biketinker.com/2012/projects/front-bag-conversion-on-problem-solvers/.
  Flared 
 drops. Threadless stem. Berthoud saddle, maybe? I like your mixte idea for 
 standover/bailoff clearance. 

 Maybe an Abele gray, black, or pea-sage green; something low-key for 
 the woods. Pencil blue, maybe.

 Philip
 www.biketinker.com



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[RBW] Re: Advice on a possible Sam purchase for a new Riv buyer

2012-12-07 Thread Peter Pesce
The question is, what do you want your new bike to do that one of your 
current bikes doesn't do, or do well? You may in fact want a Riv, but maybe 
not a Sam, or maybe not at all. What's you most pressing need?
Unless you have lots of money and storage space I wouldnt buy a bike 
because they sound great. If most of your riding is your commute, then 
I'd buy the bike you'd most enjoy commuting on, taking into account the 
nature of your ride, where you lock it / keep it, etc. If you could commute 
on a Sam I'm pretty sure you'd enjoy it more than the Velorbis.

Pete (guilty as charged with a Sam and QB) in CT

On Wednesday, December 5, 2012 9:51:14 AM UTC-5, Chris wrote:

 Hi everyone,
 Thanks for checking out my post. I currently have three bikes; a Pashley 
 Guv'Nor (beautiful to look at if a bit uncomfortable on longer rides 
 British bike), Velorbis Scrap Deluxe (very comfortable and heavy Danish 
 bike I currently use for my work commutes) and an Electra Verse (my I 
 don't care what happens to this bikebike. I really love the new double 
 tube Sams and I'd love to buy one. Many of you own multiple Rivs and they 
 sound great but do I need one? I don't do any touring. I commute to work on 
 the weekdays and if I'm fortunate to get some time on the weekends (I have 
 an 8 year old boy not really interested in biking) I get out to Griffith 
 Park here in Los Angeles. Where in your opinion would a Sam fit in? Do you 
 recommend selling one or all of the others to buy a Sam?

 Any and all opinions are welcome

 Thanks,
 Chris


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[RBW] Re: Custom Frame Raffle

2012-12-05 Thread Peter Pesce
Boy, it's pretty easy to come up with $300 in my shopping cart, even though 
there's not a single thing I need!

If I won, I'd probably basically end up with a Roadeo fattened-up to hold 
me. With fancy paint, of course... My country and utility bike needs are 
pretty much covered already at this point.

-Pete in CT

On Tuesday, December 4, 2012 4:06:42 PM UTC-5, Dave Rivbike wrote:

 I just posted on the blug but thought to repost here. 

 We're raffling off a custom frame to one lucky customer who places a $300+ 
 order during December. 

 Info here: 
 http://rivbike.tumblr.com/post/37206352818/rivendell-raffle

 Happy Holidays

 -Dave@riv


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[RBW] Re: Go fast bike: San Marcos?

2012-12-03 Thread Peter Pesce
Agreed. But for me at least, go fast is purely a feel, as nothing with me 
aboard will be going fast by any objective measure! It's more about a 
lively and responsive quality that I don't think is purely related to 
weight or anything in particular. My Sam just never felt anything but 
stout, even with brifters and light-ish wheels and tires. In contrast, my 
QB always felt noodly with luggage on it. I know from the specs that 
there's is relatively little difference in the frames, and many people have 
successfully loaded their Q's with all sorts of luggage. It was a just a 
feel thing for me. (Though i do think the forks are quite different, which 
may contribute to my perceptions)

It does seem to be rare to find a road-oriented, caliper brake, frame with 
clearance for wider (than 28) tires and fenders. That's what is pretty 
unique about the Roadeo.

-Pete in CT


On Sunday, December 2, 2012 12:01:49 PM UTC-5, Jeremy Till wrote:

 It should be pointed out that a whole lot more goes into making a bike a 
 go fast than just the frame and fork.  Roadeo's are fast because they are 
 often built with fairly lightweight parts, especially wheels.  If you end 
 up going for for the San Marcos, especially in a smaller size like your, I 
 should think you would be able to make a pretty zippy little bike if you 
 choose the right parts.  Get some lightweight wheels built (how light are 
 those new Pacenti 650b rims?), use something like Pari Motos or the GB 
 Cypres for tires, some of the lighter weight Nitto bars, a Thomson 
 seatpost, etc  Maybe forgo the brooks (gasp!) or spring for one of the 
 Ti-railed ones.  

 On Saturday, December 1, 2012 4:20:43 PM UTC-8, RJM wrote:

 I have been trying to get the funds together for a Riv go fast bike. 
 Right now I have been using my Sam Hillborne for it, but I would really 
 like to change that into an albatrossed townie commuter bike and get a 
 dedicated lighter bike using little to no baggage so I can ride with the 
 local club and to do charity centuries on. The Roadeo seems like the 
 perfect bike for it, really. BUT. I was pondering though, instead of 
 dropping two grand on a Roadeo frame, what about building a Soma San 
 Marcos. If I went the San Marcos route, I would save 1100 bucks on the 
 frame, which is not chump change, and be able to put some of the extra 
 money towards the parts to switch the Hillborne over to the townie and get 
 a good build on the Soma. Both the Sam and the Soma would be 650b in my 
 size (51cm), but the Roadeo would be 700 wheels. I would guess that the 
 Roadeo would be a lighter bike, all in all. 
  
  My question are these: would the San Marcos be a good dedicated go 
 fast bike, is it any faster feeling than the Sam in that regard? Any 
 owners want to share their opinions of the bike? Do you think I should 
 just bite the bullet and save for the Roadeo (which sounds like is perfect 
 for what I want) and stop thinking of saving money?  Anyway, thanks for 
 your help.
  
 Ryan



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[RBW] Go fast bike: San Marcos?

2012-12-01 Thread Peter Pesce
I too tried a Sam as a go fast and decided to look elsewhere. I currently have 
my QB set up for minimalist rides. 
The Rodeo is clearly the number one choice, but barring that the SM seems nice 
if you are not in the 2TT size range. Double top tubes and going fast are just 
not synonymous in my mind.  Otherwise, Soma makes many steel frames that will 
go fast.  I have a Double Cross that I love. 

Pete in CT 

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Re: [RBW] Re: Keeping your neck warm

2012-11-30 Thread Peter Pesce
I have a fleece neck gaiter from lands end (one of those things you buy to 
get over the free shipping threshold) that is great below 32 deg, but too 
warm above that.

How about a section of the thigh cut from otherwise worn out wool leggings, 
or, for that matter, a neck salvaged from a otherwise unusable turtleneck? 

-Pete in CT (where it was neck gaiter weather this morning!)

On Friday, November 30, 2012 3:46:16 PM UTC-5, Patrick Moore wrote:

 Thanks, all -- some good products but too bulky for what I want. But 
 you've given me some ideas. 

 I tried the Riv wool neck gaiter -- not sure if it was the Possum one 
 -- and didn't like it -- it chafed, so I went to fleece. But again, 
 too bulky for ~50F. 

 Will report. 

 On Fri, Nov 30, 2012 at 1:09 PM, Kevin Mulcahy 
 kpmu...@gmail.comjavascript: 
 wrote: 
  
  Try a merino wool Buff. We've got a couple in our household and 
 frequently 
  give them as gifts. 
  
  http://www.rei.com/product/789718/buff-wool-buff 
  
  Kevin 
  Chicago, IL 
  
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[RBW] Re: New/old magnets at Rivendell

2012-11-06 Thread Peter Pesce
Went to order a magnet and patch, but $8 shipping on $12 goods is silly. 
I'd order a lot more from Riv if they'd fix their shipping rate structure. 
Maybe if I send them a good old fashioned self-addressed stamped envelope 
from the pre-internet days?

-Pete in CT

On Friday, November 2, 2012 1:05:26 AM UTC-4, Dennis Hogan wrote:

 Thanks Joe for the heads-up - those are great - have placed the order 
 (plus a few other items to amortize the shipping cost ;-) )
 Dennis in PDX

 On Thursday, November 1, 2012 6:19:37 PM UTC-7, Joe Bernard wrote:

 Well..I didn't expect to see *these *again. New Rivendell and Baggins 
 Bags magnets at ye old www.rivbike.com. 10 bucks each, which is really 
 gonna steam the guy who beat my bid of $25 for one on Ebay a couple weeks 
 ago :)
  
 Joe Bernard
 Vallejo, CA.



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[RBW] Who rode their bicycle to vote in the US today?

2012-11-06 Thread Peter Pesce
Wasn't my Riv, but rode my commuter to vote on the way to work. It was 29 
degrees at 6:45 AM when I left the house, so not many bikes there! Not many 
people at all really , so it took me all of 5 minutes to vote. 

Pete in CT

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Re: [RBW] Dynohub opinions

2012-10-25 Thread Peter Pesce
I think you can buy individual BQ issues right from their website.

Regarding the SP hub, I have the PD-8 on my commuter, but have only had it 
a month so cannot comment on durability. Initial impressions are that it is 
built perfectly well given its price. I'm sure it's not SON quality, but at 
half the cost it let me get a dyno system, where I couldn't have if I felt 
I had to buy a SON hub or nothing. I can't see the SP being built any worse 
than any other hub at the same general price point like the Sanyo or 
Shimanos. 

As for everyone's endless obsession with weight, drag, and efficiency, I 
think it's all a bit silly as the differences are miniscule and are 
completely lost in the noise, especially for us Riv-sh folks. 

-Pete in CT

On Thursday, October 25, 2012 10:50:27 AM UTC-4, justin...@gmail.com wrote:

 H

 Leaning towards Shimano or the SP non-switchable. Any first hand 
 experience with the SPs?

 -J



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[RBW] Re: Dynohub opinions

2012-10-25 Thread Peter Pesce
Ah yes, good point. Forgot to mention that the SP hub also uses the Shimano 
connector. That was a factor for me as it makes it much easier to share the 
wheel among bikes.

-Pete in CT

On Thursday, October 25, 2012 2:45:41 PM UTC-4, Philip Williamson wrote:

 I like the Shimano connector better than the SON, and the quality seems 
 very good. I got a heavily discounted OEM Alfine, and wish I'd bought two. 
 My SON has 10x more miles, with no problems - I hope the Shimano does as 
 well. 

 Philip
 www.biketinker.com

 On Wednesday, October 24, 2012 8:37:06 PM UTC-7, Jim Thill - Hiawatha 
 Cyclery wrote:

 My go-to hub is the Shimano Alfine. I have two or three such wheels now. 
 No complaints! I've used several Schmidt hubs over the years, too, but I 
 find its hard to justify the price difference.



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[RBW] Re: lights

2012-10-09 Thread Peter Pesce
Kelly
In the 9 miles I've ridden it so far it's very nice! I have the PD-8 so no 
clutch on mine. I have no previous experience with any other dyno hub to 
compare it to, but I was really surprised taking it out of the box how small 
and light it was. Its barely larger than the XT hub that was on the bike 
before. The finish quality seems good, but 9 dry miles is no test of durability!
Riding, I cannot sense any drag or vibration, on or off.  It just disappears. 
The buying experience was very smooth. It got here in a week from Taiwan via 
regular mail. 

Pete in CT

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[RBW] Re: lights

2012-10-08 Thread Peter Pesce
It's hard to beat a dynamo for reliability or convenience, but a full dyno 
set up is still a bit of an investment if you won't be using it regularly. 
However, you mention touring so it could be that even if you do most of 
your riding in daylight, not having to worry about batteries while you are 
out and about could make a dynamo system worthwhile for you. A decent 
headlight will eat batteries quickly, but if you only need be seen blinky 
lights then a set of batteries could last a whole tour with occasional use.

-Pete (dynamo powered as of this morning!) in CT


On Monday, October 8, 2012 10:42:32 AM UTC-4, Don wrote:

  I would appreciate a discussion of the various option of putting lights 
 (front and rear) on my Sam H. I don't plan on doing much after dark riding 
 but would like to have the illumination for dusk and dawn situation while 
 touring. I am thinking of such things as: battery versus generator, brands, 
 models, placement. Any insights would be appreciated. Benefitting from the 
 experience of others will be a big help. Thanks
 Don
  

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[RBW] Re: Opinions on Nitto 177 Noodle vs. Nitto B-135/136 Randonneur?

2012-10-08 Thread Peter Pesce
I actually have both 46 Noodles and 45 Randos. Surprisingly, even though 
I'm 6'3 I find the Randos more comfortable despite their being only 38cm 
at the hoods. Go figure. I use the drops less than 1% of the time, so I 
can't really comment. Also I ride almost 100% paved road, but I can see the 
wider bar being a big help off-road.

Pete in CT

On Saturday, October 6, 2012 9:45:36 PM UTC-4, rw1911 wrote:

 Somewhat related, but without hijacking the below Drop Bar 
 Suggestions thread... 

 I have 46cm Noodles on two bikes.  I like them fine but wonder if 
 there is something to the flaring on the Randonneur.  (hand 
 position(s) and long ride comfort) 

 If you stand relaxed with your eyes closed and place your arms in 
 front of you, you'll notice that your hands are angled in a bit. (at 
 least mine are)  With this, it would seem that the flaring of the 
 Randonneur would provide a more natural hand position.  I wonder if 
 this is true in real life? 

 B-177 Noddle (46, 26.0) reach of 95 mm C-C and drop of 140 mm C-C 
 B-135 Rando (45, 25.4)  reach of 105 mm C-C and a drop of 120 mm C-C 
 B-136 Rando (44, 26.0) reach of 110 mm C-C and a drop of 125 C-C. 
 While 1 cm narrower than the B-135, the specs I'm looking at show that 
 the hoods would be 1 cm wider than the B-135, indicating more flare? 

 Can anyone comment with their real-world experience using both (all 
 three) bars? 





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[RBW] Re: lights

2012-10-08 Thread Peter Pesce
I have a 3 mile commute on lit city streets and battery lights will easily 
suffice. I used a PB Superflash rear and 2W Blaze in front for 2 years with no 
ptoblem.  Even though the beam pattern of the Blaze wasn't ideal, I loved that 
it had a psycho flash mode for daytime riding. 
Nonetheless I upgraded to a dynamo system and tonight was my first ride home 
with it. It's very nice to just ride and go, with no battery anxiety. I have an 
IQ Cyo up front and a Toplight Line Plus Brake in the rear. Love them both so 
far, along with the SP hub dyno that's powering them. 

Pete in CT

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[RBW] Re: Rode my Giant Defy road bike today because...

2012-10-05 Thread Peter Pesce
I bought my new Soma Double Cross fork with a 400mm steerer tube - you 
could have flown a flag from that thing!

In my case, I have an 82 cm saddle height and a 62cm frame was the biggest 
they make, so I wanted extra insurance in being able to get my bars up 
level with the saddle.

I cut a good bit off (so I wouldn't put an eye out reaching for the bars) 
but still have 1 of adjustment above the stem with my bars level with my 
saddle. It CAN be done, it's just that shops usually pre-cut road bike 
stems for that slammed' look that's oh so popular.

-Pete in CT

On Friday, October 5, 2012 9:59:46 AM UTC-4, Jim Thill - Hiawatha Cyclery 
wrote:

 There's nothing carved in stone that says threadless = low handlebar. 
 You could always buy a threadless fork with a 300+ mm steerer and get the 
 bars up to your comfort zone. Riv sells a fork like that, I believe.

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[RBW] Re: Drop Bar Suggestions?

2012-10-04 Thread Peter Pesce
How does the width of the 46cm Cowbells compare to the 46cm Noodles? 
I'm really interested in trying the 'bells on my new commuter... it's 
threadless so the 31.8 is no problem.

Thanks,
Pete in CT

On Tuesday, October 2, 2012 12:45:16 PM UTC-4, lukeheller wrote:

 I second the vote for the SALSA COWBELL.

 I have been on a rampage for the right bars. I have a set of salsa bell 
 lap's on my Surly LHT touring bike but decided, when building my Riv, that 
 I should go with the classic look of the quill stem + polished silver Nitto 
 Bars. 

 I started out with the B135 Rando bars. I liked them for a good while till 
 the narrow hoods just wore me out. If they were 45 in the hoods instead of 
 the drops, I probably would've kept them. However, those bars are not for 
 big riders!

 I had a set of 46cm noodles on another bike that I liked... but not that 
 much.

 After swapping bars and stems several times on my Riv, I decided that I 
 was done with quill stems and that I'd try out the quill stem adapter so I 
 can try some 31.8 bars. There are so many more bars options in 31.8. So I'm 
 now running the 46cm Salsa Cowbell 2 and love them. I love them so much 
 that I put another set on my other bike... and I ordered a set for my 
 sister's bike... and I put them on a bike I built for my buddy. I know bars 
 are a personal thing but I think these bars have a great formula going for 
 them.

 The short reach, shallow drop, and flare in the drops in fantastic. I 
 highly recommend!

 On Thursday, September 27, 2012 7:10:59 PM UTC-4, tragicallyaverage wrote:

 Building up a bike and it needs some new drops. Any suggestions? What do 
 you ride?
 I know Noodles of course, and I've tried them in 3 different widths and 
 for some reason they don't hit home for me.
 If you had to put a drop bar other than a Noodle on your Riv/Riv-ish 
 bike, what would it be?



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[RBW] Re: Anyone ride a Riv-ish double crank setup?

2012-09-25 Thread Peter Pesce
One thing you could do more cheaply than a new crank is go with a 34 t 
cassette in back. 
You might have an MTB derailer lying around, and even if your buying new 
the cassette and RD woould be less than a new crank, unless of course you 
insist on Ultegra quality.

-Big Cog Pete (mind your spelling, folks!) in CT

On Tuesday, September 25, 2012 3:49:53 PM UTC-4, lungimsam wrote:

 My used Bleriot came with an Ultegra drivetrain. Compact double 34 x 50,  
 11-27 in the back.
  
 It is a little too much for me on the hilly areas around where I live.
  
 So I was thinking I could just put smaller rings on the front. 30 x 46? 
 Lower the front derailer a little?
  
 *Was wondering what un-racer crank toothcount you use if you have a 
 double.*


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[RBW] Re: First commute -- Mystery Bike!

2012-09-25 Thread Peter Pesce
Hooray! Pics!

Fantastic bike. That thing just oozes comfort!

-Pete in CT

On Tuesday, September 25, 2012 3:06:43 PM UTC-4, Pudge wrote:

  Finally got the Mystery Bike built up (still no fenders, though -- 
 working on the right fender/tire/brake combo), and took it for its maiden 
 voyage/first commute.  What a great bike!  A couple of pics here:
  
 http://www.flickr.com/photos/37542512@N04/8023681452/in/photostream/
  
 http://www.flickr.com/photos/37542512@N04/8023688058/in/photostream/

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[RBW] Re: Any commuters here?

2012-09-24 Thread Peter Pesce
I commute most days, but not on mt Rivs. The ride isn't that long - 3 miles 
- and is not really conducive to enjoying the bike. 
That said, I still decided to replace my LHT with a Double Cross to get a 
nicer ride...

-Pete in CT

On Monday, September 24, 2012 12:34:58 AM UTC-4, lungimsam wrote:

 I have heard mention of tours, overnights, and recreational riding.
  
 Does anyone commute on their Rivendell?
  
 I have since about August and I really enjoy the stability on descents and 
 the great handling and cush of the bike and wider tires.


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[RBW] New Kid's Bikes

2012-09-21 Thread Peter Pesce


https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-UUbLZqYyjQ4/UFx6SNBqAyI/ACI/9FRfqmvSXc8/s1600/Linus+Kids.jpg
Many here are often lamenting the lack of good kids bikes.

Apparently Linus showed a couple of new kid's models at Interbike this week:

http://pbs.twimg.com/media/A3RfCWhCYAAXeq7.jpg:large 

I wasn't there, so I have no info on pricing, availability or sizing. Just 
saw this on Twitter and thought the Bunch would be interested.

Pete in CT


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Re: [RBW] New Kid's Bikes

2012-09-21 Thread Peter Pesce
Just found another pic on Urban Velo.

http://urbanvelo.org/wordpress/wp-content/uploads/2012/09/interbike_2012_148.jpg

Not 3-piece cranks, unfortunately

On Friday, September 21, 2012 10:38:04 AM UTC-4, Peter M wrote:

 Whaaat! My Daughter would flip over the little red one.  Real 3 piece 
 crank and decent component group is hard to find in a classic looking 
 kids bike. 

 On Fri, Sep 21, 2012 at 10:33 AM, Peter Pesce pete...@gmail.comjavascript:
  wrote:


 https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-UUbLZqYyjQ4/UFx6SNBqAyI/ACI/9FRfqmvSXc8/s1600/Linus+Kids.jpg
 Many here are often lamenting the lack of good kids bikes.

 Apparently Linus showed a couple of new kid's models at Interbike this 
 week:

 http://pbs.twimg.com/media/A3RfCWhCYAAXeq7.jpg:large 

 I wasn't there, so I have no info on pricing, availability or sizing. 
 Just saw this on Twitter and thought the Bunch would be interested.

 Pete in CT


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[RBW] Re: Grant on a blog (not bike related blog)

2012-09-21 Thread Peter Pesce
I actually wore one this summer to do yard work in the sweltering heat. If 
soaked in cool water (and, better yet, put in the freezer for 10 minutes!) 
it makes working outdoors much more bearable! 

On Friday, September 21, 2012 12:00:45 AM UTC-4, Jim Thill - Hiawatha 
Cyclery wrote:

 Since I met Grant in person back in May, I have become a semi-closeted 
 neckerchief wearer. I purchased an extravagant $12 insect-repellent 
 neckerchief that nearly matches my olive MUSA shorts. I find it extremely 
 handy, and I must admit that I look dashing when I'm wearing it. Mostly 
 I've worn it when traveling out of town though. I fear such a noticeable 
 accessory would prompt folks who know me to ask questions, and frankly, I 
 don't have the energy to explain it more than once or twice.

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[RBW] Re: A. Homer Hilsen brake question

2012-09-17 Thread Peter Pesce
David-

The 610 maxes out at 61mm, so it probably won't work. Sounds like the 750 
would be perfect, though. According to VeloBase the range on the 750's is 
60-78mm.

I had the 750's on my sidepull Sam for a while and they were really nice. 
They fit nicely over a 45mm fender with no pinching and would probably 
clear a 50.

-Pete in CT

On Monday, September 17, 2012 7:21:38 AM UTC-4, David Spranger wrote:

 Hi Peter,

 Thanks, I would be interested. Do you know what the reach is on these 
 brakes? Will they work for the Hilsen? Per the geometry chart, the Hilsen 
 effective brake reach is 65.

 David
 Charlotte, NC

 On Sunday, September 16, 2012 9:02:38 PM UTC-4, Peter Pesce wrote:

 David 
 I (think) I have a set of NOS 610's in the parts box if you find out the 
 750 are too long. The original 610 was forged, and has a more classic look, 
 vs the new Grand Compes which are CNCd IIRC.

 Pete in CT



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[RBW] Re: A. Homer Hilsen brake question

2012-09-16 Thread Peter Pesce
David 
I (think) I have a set of NOS 610's in the parts box if you find out the 750 
are too long. The original 610 was forged, and has a more classic look, vs the 
new Grand Compes which are CNCd IIRC.

Pete in CT

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[RBW] Another coroplast bar bag

2012-09-16 Thread Peter Pesce
Well done. I like the random graphic elements. Reminds me of things made from 
old sailcloth. 
BTW, wouldn't it be Bar BOX?

Pete in CT

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[RBW] Dyno - SP Dynamo Hub

2012-09-15 Thread Peter Pesce
Glad to hear your positive experience. I have one of these on order for my 
commuter. 

Common wisdom seems to be that the SP is the same as the VO and Supernova. VO 
stopped selling theirs after a couple of months due to quality issues. I've 
never heard of quality issues with the SP branded ones out there, though. 

eBay seems to be the best source for the SP. the guy selling them there appears 
to be the distributor for the US and Europe. 

Pete in CT

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[RBW] Dyno - SP Dynamo Hub

2012-09-15 Thread Peter Pesce
Kelly-
Do you have the SD or SV model? From my understanding of SP's nomenclature the 
V is the non-disc and the D is the 6 hole disc version. Also the S 
indicated the small wheel version, correct? Any feedback on low speed behavior 
of the S hub? I ordered the 700c wheel version, I believe it's the P series, 
because I don't mind a few extra grams and read one review where they noticed 
odd behavior of the S model at low speeds. 
(apologies if I have this all completely bass-ackwards!)

Pete in CT

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[RBW] Re: Shocking Riv-ish developments at an LBS near me...

2012-09-10 Thread Peter Pesce
I was just thinking about a similar thing. I seriously doubt Trek keeps the 
lights on at Trek world HQ selling Madones. For all the angst over the 
race-centric bike industry I'd guess 99.9% of the 15.7 million bikes sold 
in the US in 2011 were comfort, hybrid or MTB. Heck, 4.7 million of those 
were in the under 20 wheel category, which I assume is mostly kids 
bikes, not Moultons!

Pete in CT

On Saturday, September 8, 2012 10:22:08 PM UTC-4, Jim Thill - Hiawatha 
Cyclery wrote:

 Just this year, Surly removed any restrictions on steerer tube length from 
 their warranty language. The old warranty was invalidated, supposedly, if 
 the steerer protruded more than 100 mm (4) above the headtube/headset. We 
 at HC have been ignoring that for years, but this year Surly gave their 
 blessing to long steerer tubes with the phrase, IIRC, go nuts. LHT 
 steerer length for 700C wheels is 320 mm (about 13) and for 26 wheels and 
 56cm+ frames, it's 380 mm (just over 15). For most people, the full-length 
 steerer is plenty to get the bars high enough. Even when we cut some off, I 
 always leave an extra 10-15 mm, just in case the rider wants to go a little 
 higher someday without a new up-angle stem. Anyway, this is a case where 
 the conventional wisdom about threadless steerers being universally too 
 short is wrong. Incidentally, I don't believe this is a case of the 
 industry seeing the light as much as a case of saving money by not 
 pre-cutting the steerers.

 It's really nothing new that bike shops are selling non-racer bikes. 
 Everyday Mongo and I fix up old bikes made in the past 1-50 years. Most are 
 hybrids or comfort bikes or mountain bikes or 1970s and 80s 10-speeds or 
 English 3-speeds and the like. The fraction of older racing-inspired bikes 
 that come through for service is tiny. I suspect this means that people 
 have mostly been buying non-racing bikes for the past 50 years. Of course, 
 the shops like to push the sexier stuff. When I worked at Freewheel, which 
 is a big Trek shop (and former BStone dealer) in Minneapolis, we had lots 
 of racy bikes on display to greet customers when they walked in, but I sold 
 probably 2-3 Trek 520 touring bikes for every racing-style bike, and 
 probably 20 $400 hybrids for every race bike. I don't recall selling even 
 one $5,000-10,000 Madone, even though we had them to sell.

 On Saturday, September 8, 2012 2:53:49 PM UTC-5, Tony Lockhart wrote:

 It's nice to hear LBS folks saying that their sales are coming primarily 
 from regular people. Kinda makes me wonder if more and more people are 
 realizing the enjoyment that comes with cycling. Surlys are great bikes and 
 it makes sense that they're increasing in popularity.

 I have a conjecture about the high steer tubes. I speculate that the 
 bikes at your LBS are built up with uncut steer tubes so customers have the 
 option of fine tuning their handlebar height. Perhaps potential buyers get 
 the opportunity to mix and match washers to find the ideal height when 
 going in for a fitting.

 On Saturday, September 8, 2012 11:10:22 AM UTC-7, lungimsam wrote:

 Sorry for the typos. I wonder if quill stems will be coming back anytime 
 soon.



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Re: [RBW] Re: New budget Riv in Summer 2013?

2012-09-08 Thread Peter Pesce
Funny you mention that! I was just today looking at the Cowbell for my Soma DC 
build, and thought they might be nice on my Rivs too if not for the clamp size. 
Now, if we could only convince Salsa to make then in silver! Off to the Salsa 
forums to start a thread.

Pete (never satisfied) in CT

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[RBW] Nitto Noodle (B177) questions

2012-09-08 Thread Peter Pesce
My 46cm Noodles actually have unequal sweeps. I always thought this was in my 
head, but I actually measured it the other day. Bike has never been in an 
incident that could have caused it, and I've suspected it from day one. 
Once I'm on a ride and have my mind on other things, I forget about it and it 
doesn't bother me. Guess you can get used to anything!

On a related note, 46cm Noodles for sale cheap. (just kidding of course)

Pete in CT

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Re: [RBW] Re: New budget Riv in Summer 2013?

2012-09-07 Thread Peter Pesce
I would LOVE if Riv could use their clout with Nitto to get them to make a 
removable faceplate quill stem. The bar (un)wrapping (and inevitable 
scratching) with quill stems is the one thing I dislike about them. I know 
there are or have been some versions of this out there, but none with Nitto 
quality as I recall.

-Pete in CT

On Friday, September 7, 2012 1:10:18 PM UTC-4, Dan wrote:

 I am with Jim on the threadless headsets. I have two rivs that I love but 
 if I could change one thing it would be to go threadless. It would offer a 
 much wider variety of handlebar choices, I find it easier to adjust the 
 headset, and it is stiffer, and more headsets are available, and I like 
 being able to remove the bars without unwrapping the tape.

 I am relatively new to disc brakes, but I like the mechanical bb7 brakes 
 on my surly troll a lot especially now that I am finally figuring out how 
 to adjust them. 

 Dan Abelson 
 St Paul, MN


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Re: [RBW] Re: New budget Riv in Summer 2013?

2012-09-05 Thread Peter Pesce
I've never used any disc brakes, so I cant comment on performance, but one 
advantage of cable discs is that you can use any normal, standard-pull 
brake lever - brifter, mtb, inverse, guidonnet, etc.. This is why the 
'cross and road disc bikes now hitting the shows use mostly cable discs. 
This will eventually change, of course, as road discs seem to be the Next 
Big Thing that Trekalized will push on the road riding masses, so hydraulic 
STI levers cant be too far off. For me, however, part of the Riv ethos is 
the idea that you can freely mix and match parts to suit. I've already 
messed this up a bit for myself with V-brakes, but at least you can find a 
lever that is convertible from short to long pull. Not sure if there is a 
lever than can convert from hydraulic to cable.

Another HUGE advantage to disc brakes, for the Riv and Bob folks, is you 
can use any wheel size your heart desires! As long as the frame has the 
right clearances, (and what Riv frame wouldn't?), you could pick 700c, 650b 
or even 26 at will. Sure, fender mounting could be tricky, but it's a lot 
easier to find fender mounting work-arounds than it is to move canti bosses.

-Pete in CT

On Tuesday, September 4, 2012 10:37:17 PM UTC-4, Montclair BobbyB wrote:

 Or hydraulic brakes... I've been riding both cable and hydraulic disc 
 brakes for years, and I'm here to tell you, hydraulic Shimano's (the older 
 style) are the bee's knees... I've never had issues with busted brake lines 
 or poor performance... They're easy to maintain and super dependable, way 
 more dependable than rim brakes!  And even the best-adjusted cable-actuated 
 disc brakes can't come close to the hydraulics.  The price has come way 
 down on hydraulic brakes... there are few reasons left to go with cable 
 discs... I've been running them on my mountain bikes for years in all kinds 
 of rought weather conditions (including ice and snow).  THEY STOP in all 
 kinds of weather!

 I'd love to see a disc version Rivendell...although I fear it would 
 require a beefier fork (for the forces applied to the lower section of the 
 fork).  This might be a challenge to make a beefier fork that looks 
 elegant.  Then again, I'll bet it's possible to preserve the beauty in a 
 disc version.. Wes Williams (for example) makes a beautifully curved 29er 
 disc fork (the Willits WOW).   I love the look of rim brakes, but 
 performance wise there's simply no contest between rim and disc brakes.

 Peace,
 BB

 On Monday, September 3, 2012 5:53:11 PM UTC-4, James Warren wrote:


 I would like it if this bike were made ready for disc brakes. Mechanical 
 ones. 





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Re: [RBW] Re: New budget Riv in Summer 2013?

2012-09-05 Thread Peter Pesce
Thanks for the correction! Discs aren't really my forte... obviously!

On Wednesday, September 5, 2012 12:18:24 PM UTC-4, Jeremy Till wrote:

 That's not exactly true.  Unless specifically noted, most cable-actuated 
 disk brakes are set up for long cable pull, the same as v-brakes and are 
 only compatible with long-pull levers.  There are a few short-pull specific 
 calipers, such as a couple of models of the Avid BB range that 
 specifically have a road version.  I think a couple of other 
 manufacturers (Formula, Tektro) are starting to come out with short-pull 
 road models (those are probably what you're seeing on disc cross bikes), 
 but they are still relatively thin on the ground.  

 The current crop of cross and road bikes use cable discs mostly because 
 nobody's come out with a hydraulic drop-bar lever yet, and any of the 
 conversion systems (I've seen one involving cable-actuated master cylinders 
 under the stem) don't quite seem refined enough yet.  However, at Eurobike 
 this past week Colnago was showing off disc road bikes with a hydraulic, 
 electronic brifter (for either Campy EPS or Shimano Di2) they had designed 
 with Formula. 

 On Wednesday, September 5, 2012 7:23:00 AM UTC-7, Peter Pesce wrote:

 I've never used any disc brakes, so I cant comment on performance, but 
 one advantage of cable discs is that you can use any normal, standard-pull 
 brake lever - brifter, mtb, inverse, guidonnet, etc.. This is why the 
 'cross and road disc bikes now hitting the shows use mostly cable discs. 
 This will eventually change, of course, as road discs seem to be the Next 
 Big Thing that Trekalized will push on the road riding masses, so hydraulic 
 STI levers cant be too far off. For me, however, part of the Riv ethos is 
 the idea that you can freely mix and match parts to suit. I've already 
 messed this up a bit for myself with V-brakes, but at least you can find a 
 lever that is convertible from short to long pull. Not sure if there is a 
 lever than can convert from hydraulic to cable.

 Another HUGE advantage to disc brakes, for the Riv and Bob folks, is you 
 can use any wheel size your heart desires! As long as the frame has the 
 right clearances, (and what Riv frame wouldn't?), you could pick 700c, 650b 
 or even 26 at will. Sure, fender mounting could be tricky, but it's a lot 
 easier to find fender mounting work-arounds than it is to move canti bosses.

 -Pete in CT

 On Tuesday, September 4, 2012 10:37:17 PM UTC-4, Montclair BobbyB wrote:

 Or hydraulic brakes... I've been riding both cable and hydraulic disc 
 brakes for years, and I'm here to tell you, hydraulic Shimano's (the older 
 style) are the bee's knees... I've never had issues with busted brake lines 
 or poor performance... They're easy to maintain and super dependable, way 
 more dependable than rim brakes!  And even the best-adjusted cable-actuated 
 disc brakes can't come close to the hydraulics.  The price has come way 
 down on hydraulic brakes... there are few reasons left to go with cable 
 discs... I've been running them on my mountain bikes for years in all kinds 
 of rought weather conditions (including ice and snow).  THEY STOP in all 
 kinds of weather!

 I'd love to see a disc version Rivendell...although I fear it would 
 require a beefier fork (for the forces applied to the lower section of the 
 fork).  This might be a challenge to make a beefier fork that looks 
 elegant.  Then again, I'll bet it's possible to preserve the beauty in a 
 disc version.. Wes Williams (for example) makes a beautifully curved 29er 
 disc fork (the Willits WOW).   I love the look of rim brakes, but 
 performance wise there's simply no contest between rim and disc brakes.

 Peace,
 BB

 On Monday, September 3, 2012 5:53:11 PM UTC-4, James Warren wrote:


 I would like it if this bike were made ready for disc brakes. 
 Mechanical ones. 





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[RBW] Re: Coral on my head

2012-09-04 Thread Peter Pesce
I have Bern that I use for winter - complete with fuzzy earflap liner. It's 
way too hot for anything over 40 deg.

On Tuesday, September 4, 2012 8:57:04 AM UTC-4, Mojo wrote:

 Whip boy that looks like a sweat bucket for the warm season!

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[RBW] Re: Mystery Bike Test Ride

2012-09-04 Thread Peter Pesce
Thanks! I hope my wink adequately conveyed that I didn't *really* think 
anything was fishy!

Just eager to see...

Pete (irony is the only thing you can't get on the internet) in CT

On Tuesday, September 4, 2012 12:11:13 AM UTC-4, grant wrote:

 Four are still in paint. Three are painted here, one has been assembled 
 and needs to be boxed and shipped, and not everybody's on the Forum. The 
 bike...to me, is astounding. I just love how it feels, everything it does. 
 It's not a sportsy bike or the kind of bike that---well, at some point 
 we'll have a production model (meaning I think it is a good design). The 
 specials have a Riv badge and a Protovelo decal---although Thomas's went 
 out before decaling, so I sent him a decal and instructions. All of the 
 specials get a single top-mounted decal on the diagatube.

 On Monday, September 3, 2012 6:47:16 PM UTC-7, Peter Pesce wrote:

 So let me get this straight. There were 10 of these made IIRC and only 
 one person has fessed up to receiving theirs, and hardly any pictures? 
 Something's fishy. ;)



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Re: [RBW] Re: New budget Riv in Summer 2013?

2012-09-03 Thread Peter Pesce
Soma sells their fancy lugged Stanyan for $700 ish, so I'd guess thats about as 
cheap as lugs can get. Below that youre in a very crowded market. Both Soma and 
Surly sell very sensible frames at the 4-600 price point. 

Pete (with a Soma Double Cross Disc on order to replace my LHT) in CT

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[RBW] Re: Mystery Bike Test Ride

2012-09-03 Thread Peter Pesce
So let me get this straight. There were 10 of these made IIRC and only one 
person has fessed up to receiving theirs, and hardly any pictures? Something's 
fishy. ;)

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[RBW] Does your technomic stem extension sit level on your bike? The top of the 7.

2012-08-29 Thread Peter Pesce
I've only ever seen 72 degrees listed as the angle for nitto technomic stems, 
which is within a degree of most every riv head tube. How is yours angled down 
so much?

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[RBW] Re: Lance Armstrong Stripped of Tour de France Titles

2012-08-26 Thread Peter Pesce
Tim. Sounds like the very common shudder that is cured with a fork crown 
mounted cable hanger. Did Riv suggest that? 

Pete (canti-free, only V) in CT

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[RBW] Nitto Randoneur bars. Have tyou used them?

2012-08-25 Thread Peter Pesce
I started with 46 cm Noodles based on info here and the Riv site. Rode them for 
a while and liked them well enough. Tried 45 cm Nitto rando bars next. While 45 
is the widest they make, that is at the ends of the drops. The hoods are about 
7cm narrower, making these feel like 38s. Surprisingly, I was able to get 
comfortable on them pretty easily after the wide noodles. After 200 miles they 
felt natural. Very surprising given the radical change in width. 
The flare makes it very easy to reach the brakes from the hoods, and the rise 
at the corners is comfortable too. I don't ride the tops much, but they seem 
least successful there. 
I went back to the noodles on my QB and they now feel very wide!
If the narrow Nittos worry you VO makes a rando bar that is 48 cm I think. 

Pete in CT

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[RBW] Re: Lance Armstrong Stripped of Tour de France Titles

2012-08-24 Thread Peter Pesce
Does this make him an UnRacer now? :)

On Friday, August 24, 2012 1:47:22 AM UTC-4, Jim Cloud wrote:

 Just picked this up from internet traffic: 


 http://news.yahoo.com/lance-armstrong-stripped-tour-france-titles-internet-shock-233032763.html
  

 Jim Cloud 
 Tucson, AZ 


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[RBW] Re: Fitting my SimpleOne not so simple

2012-08-21 Thread Peter Pesce
A Sam isn't a simple answer - my QB fits me better than my Sam (60cm), and 
I'm about the same height as you.

That being said, I was only able to get my Sam to work with a setback 
seatpost. And it actually worked better for to keep the stem as is and just 
move my butt back. It seems to me that a small movement of the saddle is 
equivalent to a larger change in the stem in terms of moving your center of 
gravity, perhaps because there is much more weight on your saddle.

Interestingly, my QB (a 62cm) works fine without the setback, although I 
currently have the bars set a bit lower in fast roadie mode.

Good luck. There's nothing as satisfying as that moment when you get the 
fit dialed in!

Pete in CT

On Tuesday, August 21, 2012 2:41:38 PM UTC-4, Matt wrote:

 Hello Rivers,

 I'm running out of ideas, so wondered about soliciting some brainstorming 
 and help.

 In the spring, I bought one of the last 62cm SimpleOne's on Closeout.  It 
 is lovely, but I'm having a hell of a time getting it to fit right. 

 Here it 
 ishttps://www.facebook.com/photo.php?fbid=372497459468367set=a.371847872866659.105177.11243471869type=3theater,
  
 as originally set up fixed at ~63 gear inches with a 120mm Nitto Tech 
 Deluxe stem, 48cm Noodle bars, Nitto 83 seat post, and Brooks B17 saddle.  
 I'm 6'2 tall, 185lbs, with a PBH of ~90cm.

 No matter what adjustments I've made, I can't get my hands and arms to 
 feel comfortable on the bicycle.  

 I know I like the vast majority of my weight on the saddle and away from 
 my hands, so have put the saddle as far back over the rear wheel as the 
 post will allow and have tried putting the handlebars up higher as well.  
 Recently, I changed out the 120mm stem for a 100mm Tallux, hoping it would 
 move my centre of mass rearward, but my hands, arms and upper body still 
 feel propped' on the bicycle.  Despite the marked up-tilt on my saddle, my 
 behind still seems to slide forward as well.

 Have others experienced something similar?  What advice might you offer in 
 adjusting the bike to fit me better?  

 Is it more realistic to give up and trade the SO for a Hilborne with it's 
 nice lax 71.5 degree seat tube angle to put my weight  where I want it?

 Thanks in advance,

 Matt


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[RBW] Nitto rear racks vs. Topeak racks with slide on trunk bag attachment tracks.

2012-08-19 Thread Peter Pesce
I use the Topeak system on my LHT commuter / utility bike and find it very 
convenient. I have a couple of the topeak accessories, and have managed to jury 
rig a few other things to work on the track system (like a waterproof plastic 
ammo box.)
On my Rivs, however, it's all nitto and canvas and leather. Just feels right 
somehow. 
Regardless, what works for you is what's best. 

Pete in CT

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[RBW] Re: I really like my Rivendell bicycle and riding it makes me happy

2012-08-08 Thread Peter Pesce
Michael-

I guess Local Man Does Something Because He Enjoys It just isn't considered 
news! :)

Pete in CT

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RE: [RBW] Mystery Bike!

2012-08-07 Thread Peter Pesce
Ooh! Will Riv get someone to make a new version of a suicide shifter? I'd 
absolutely LOVE a Silver Suicide Shifter for my QB!

Pete (shiftless in CT)

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Re: [RBW] Complaints about bad roads

2012-08-05 Thread Peter Pesce
On a related note, how big we're your riding companions? The popular online 
tire drop calculator indicates 85 psi in a 37mm rear tire for a 225 lb rider 
with 75 lbs of bike and gear. 
My LHT actually rides much nicer with a good load on it. I always assumed it 
did so because that's what's it was designed for, and the harshness I sometimes 
feel with my light commuting load is due to a tube set designed for much 
heavier duty. Id assume your Atlantis has the same ultimate capabilities, but 
with a more sophisticated design it just works better across the entire range 
of loading. 

Pete in CT

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