The BMW UUC Digest Volume 2 : Issue 31 : "text" Format Messages in this Issue: Re: Where again? Great car sortware Re: E36 Rear Shock Mount Replacement Re: E36 Rear Shock Mount Replacement Re: E36 Rear Shock Mount Replacement Re: E36 coupe lock woes (semi urgent) Re: <E36> Front Door Handle R&R Re: <E36> Front Door Handle R&R Re: <E36> Front Door Handle R&R Re: Track tire decisions again..... Falken ZIEX ZE-512 - opinions Re: <E36> 97 M3 Coolant Sensor E34/M50 Alternator Issues Re: E34/M50 Alternator Issues Kumho Race tires for sale
---------------------------------------------------------------------- Date: Wed, 18 Feb 2004 17:19:06 -0600 From: "Jamie Howton" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: Re: Where again? Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> I just got some at my local BMW dealer. Regards Jamie Howton 2002 330i 1995 M3 -----Original Message----- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Wednesday, February 18, 2004 4:12 PM To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: Re: [UUC] Where again? Search the ARCHIVES:http://www.mail-archive.com/[EMAIL PROTECTED] OK guys, where again are the sources for the Bosch wiper blade refills? Not the whole blade just the refills. Grassyass, -Kevin ________________________________________________________________________ __ In memory of Michel Potheau - friend, enthusiast, founder of the BMW CCA. UUC Motorwerks - BMW Performance Fine-tuning and home of the Ultimate Short Shifter - accept no substitutes! 908-874-9092 . http://www.uucmotorwerks.com ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 18 Feb 2004 16:18:11 -0800 From: Steve Albrecht <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: undisclosed-recipients:; Subject: Great car sortware Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> In doing some research for data acquisition systems for an article for the magazine for which I write, I ran across this web site. Bill Mitchell has some pretty impressive sounding software available. I think I will order the Driving Simulator and see how it works. There are also some other products that look pretty good. I have no affiliation or financial interest in this, I just thought it looked interesting. http://www.mitchellsoftware.com/ Steve Albrecht Cupertino, CA ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 18 Feb 2004 16:37:44 -0800 (PST) From: willie yeo <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: Re: E36 Rear Shock Mount Replacement Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Here is the link for the prototype rear strut bar which is meant to be used with solid mounts. Sorry for any confusion if anyone concluded from my previous mail that it will work on street cars.. http://www.sbibmw.com/pics/sbi/rearbar/ --- Mark Dadgar <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote: > Search the > ARCHIVES:http://www.mail-archive.com/[EMAIL PROTECTED] > > > On Feb 17, 2004, at 10:14 AM, > [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: > >> I have seen the prototype. He is planing to sell > it for under > >> $200. I will try to post a picture of the product > when it > >> becomes available. > > > > Please include the picture of the new boat your > mechanic is planning to > > finance with this 'product'. > > That is an entirely reasonable price for a > combination rear shock tower > bar and permanent RSM setup. > > Whether or not the car actually needs a rear bar is > another question > entirely. > > But the pricing is dead-on. > > - Mark > E36 325is JP/A5 #117, welded-in rear strut bar, > GC RSMs > ----- > [EMAIL PROTECTED] > > __________________________________________________________________________ > In memory of Michel Potheau - friend, enthusiast, > founder of the BMW CCA. > > UUC Motorwerks - BMW Performance Fine-tuning and > home of the Ultimate > Short Shifter - accept no substitutes! > 908-874-9092 . http://www.uucmotorwerks.com __________________________________ Do you Yahoo!? Yahoo! Mail SpamGuard - Read only the mail you want. http://antispam.yahoo.com/tools ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 18 Feb 2004 17:18:38 -0800 (PST) From: Gary Derian <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: Re: E36 Rear Shock Mount Replacement Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> The loads are applied at the top, why does the round brace go to the bottom? Is any side load applied at the top that needs bracing? Gary Derian --- willie yeo <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote: > Search the > ARCHIVES:http://www.mail-archive.com/[EMAIL PROTECTED] > > > Here is the link for the prototype rear strut bar > which is meant to be used with solid mounts. Sorry > for > any confusion if anyone concluded from my previous > mail that it will work on street cars.. > > http://www.sbibmw.com/pics/sbi/rearbar/ > > > --- Mark Dadgar <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote: > > Search the > > > ARCHIVES:http://www.mail-archive.com/[EMAIL PROTECTED] > > > > > > On Feb 17, 2004, at 10:14 AM, > > [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: > > >> I have seen the prototype. He is planing to > sell > > it for under > > >> $200. I will try to post a picture of the > product > > when it > > >> becomes available. > > > > > > Please include the picture of the new boat your > > mechanic is planning to > > > finance with this 'product'. > > > > That is an entirely reasonable price for a > > combination rear shock tower > > bar and permanent RSM setup. > > > > Whether or not the car actually needs a rear bar > is > > another question > > entirely. > > > > But the pricing is dead-on. > > > > - Mark > > E36 325is JP/A5 #117, welded-in rear strut bar, > > GC RSMs > > ----- > > [EMAIL PROTECTED] > > > > > __________________________________________________________________________ > > In memory of Michel Potheau - friend, enthusiast, > > founder of the BMW CCA. > > > > UUC Motorwerks - BMW Performance Fine-tuning and > > home of the Ultimate > > Short Shifter - accept no substitutes! > > 908-874-9092 . http://www.uucmotorwerks.com > > > __________________________________ > Do you Yahoo!? > Yahoo! Mail SpamGuard - Read only the mail you want. > http://antispam.yahoo.com/tools > __________________________________________________________________________ > In memory of Michel Potheau - friend, enthusiast, > founder of the BMW CCA. > > UUC Motorwerks - BMW Performance Fine-tuning and > home of the Ultimate > Short Shifter - accept no substitutes! > 908-874-9092 . http://www.uucmotorwerks.com ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 18 Feb 2004 21:04:28 -0800 (PST) From: willie yeo <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: Re: E36 Rear Shock Mount Replacement Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Gary.. You are right. There should be a diagonal bar applying the force inward towards the center. I will pass the info along to the shop and this may be just the 1st gen prototype.. Will --- Gary Derian <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote: > Search the > ARCHIVES:http://www.mail-archive.com/[EMAIL PROTECTED] > > > The loads are applied at the top, why does the round > brace go to the bottom? Is any side load applied at > the top that needs bracing? > > Gary Derian > > --- willie yeo <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote: > > Search the > > > ARCHIVES:http://www.mail-archive.com/[EMAIL PROTECTED] > > > > > > Here is the link for the prototype rear strut bar > > which is meant to be used with solid mounts. Sorry > > for > > any confusion if anyone concluded from my previous > > mail that it will work on street cars.. > > > > http://www.sbibmw.com/pics/sbi/rearbar/ > > > > > > --- Mark Dadgar <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote: > > > Search the > > > > > > ARCHIVES:http://www.mail-archive.com/[EMAIL PROTECTED] > > > > > > > > > On Feb 17, 2004, at 10:14 AM, > > > [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: > > > >> I have seen the prototype. He is planing to > > sell > > > it for under > > > >> $200. I will try to post a picture of the > > product > > > when it > > > >> becomes available. > > > > > > > > Please include the picture of the new boat > your > > > mechanic is planning to > > > > finance with this 'product'. > > > > > > That is an entirely reasonable price for a > > > combination rear shock tower > > > bar and permanent RSM setup. > > > > > > Whether or not the car actually needs a rear bar > > is > > > another question > > > entirely. > > > > > > But the pricing is dead-on. > > > > > > - Mark > > > E36 325is JP/A5 #117, welded-in rear strut > bar, > > > GC RSMs > > > ----- > > > [EMAIL PROTECTED] > > > > > > > > > __________________________________________________________________________ > > > In memory of Michel Potheau - friend, > enthusiast, > > > founder of the BMW CCA. > > > > > > UUC Motorwerks - BMW Performance Fine-tuning and > > > home of the Ultimate > > > Short Shifter - accept no substitutes! > > > 908-874-9092 . http://www.uucmotorwerks.com > > > > > > __________________________________ > > Do you Yahoo!? > > Yahoo! Mail SpamGuard - Read only the mail you > want. > > http://antispam.yahoo.com/tools > > > __________________________________________________________________________ > > In memory of Michel Potheau - friend, enthusiast, > > founder of the BMW CCA. > > > > UUC Motorwerks - BMW Performance Fine-tuning and > > home of the Ultimate > > Short Shifter - accept no substitutes! > > 908-874-9092 . http://www.uucmotorwerks.com > > __________________________________________________________________________ > In memory of Michel Potheau - friend, enthusiast, > founder of the BMW CCA. > > UUC Motorwerks - BMW Performance Fine-tuning and > home of the Ultimate > Short Shifter - accept no substitutes! > 908-874-9092 . http://www.uucmotorwerks.com __________________________________ Do you Yahoo!? Yahoo! Mail SpamGuard - Read only the mail you want. http://antispam.yahoo.com/tools ------------------------------ Date: 18 Feb 2004 18:21:45 -0800 From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Cc: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: Re: E36 coupe lock woes (semi urgent) Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> The dangling rod is the reason that lock doesn't work. The lower end of the rod should go to a plastic snap bushing in a metal tab in the latch at the rear edge of the door. You can't see the tab, because it has fallen down inside the latch. If you can fish it out with a hooked wire, you can snap the rod into it. Curt Ingraham 72 2002tii Oakland, CA Larry T <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote: > First off, sorry for the cross-post, but this is kinda urgent. > > Background: > Since I got this car (98 m3/2), the key will not lock/unlock the car from= > =20 > the passenger side door, but the door will unlock/lock if you use the=20 > central locking button. The door opens fine with the inside/outside handl= > es.=20 > I did some asking about this, and it was decided that it was the door loc= > k=20 > actuator. > > Today: > I was bored, so I decided I would take apart the door, to see what I'm=20 > dealing with. I'm planning on installing new speakers, and I ordered a ne= > w=20 > door lock actuator, so it had to be done anyway. I get in there, and I ca= > n=20 > see the lock cylinder, I can see where the rod from the inside door handl= > e=20 > goes to the actuator(I guess?), and I can see what I think is the actuato= > r. > > Here's my problem. On the lock cylinder, there is a rod, just dangling=20 > there. Needless to say, I do not think this is how it should be. The rod = > is=20 > attached to the cylinder, and it moves when I turn the lock with the key.= > It=20 > seems to me that this rod should connect to the actuator, to tell the car= > to=20 > lock and unlock the car, but I cannot find where it attaches to. > > If anyone can shed some info, I would greatly appreciate it. I'd like to = > get=20 > it done today before I lose some light. Pictures can be provided, if they= > =20 > are necessary. Thanks! > > Larry ------------------------------ Date: 18 Feb 2004 18:36:07 -0800 From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Cc: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: Re: <E36> Front Door Handle R&R Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Maybe you were thinking of a 4-door, which looks easy? The Bentley manual gives 11 steps for removing the glass in a 2-door (after removing the interior panel); reassembly includes the reverse of those 11 plus 16 steps for aligning the glass. The unnecessary (IMO) interference between the handle and glass is a real pisser. Curt Brett wrote: > Considering the glass takes about 3 minutes extra to remove, it's not an > issue. > > But yes, in order to get the handle assembly out, the glass has to be out= > of the way. > > Brett Anderson > KMS > > > -----Original Message----- > > Please tell me the Bentley manual is mistaken in saying it's > > necessary to remove the window glass on a '92 318is to R&R > > the front door outside handle. Please? > > > > Curt Ingraham > > Oakland, CA ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 18 Feb 2004 21:39:32 -0500 From: "Brett Anderson" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: "UUC Digest" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: Re: <E36> Front Door Handle R&R Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> 11 steps that take 3 minutes. OK, I'll add 5 minutes for re-aligning the glass. I agree that it could have been designed differently, but it's not even close to the worst job to do on these cars. Brett Anderson KMS > -----Original Message----- > Maybe you were thinking of a 4-door, which looks easy? The Bentley > manual gives 11 steps for removing the glass in a 2-door (after > removing the interior panel); reassembly includes the reverse of > those 11 plus 16 steps for aligning the glass. > > The unnecessary (IMO) interference between the handle and glass is > a real pisser. > > Curt --- Outgoing mail is certified Virus Free. Checked by AVG anti-virus system (http://www.grisoft.com). Version: 6.0.573 / Virus Database: 363 - Release Date: 1/28/2004 ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 18 Feb 2004 21:43:55 -0500 From: "Gary Derian" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: Re: <E36> Front Door Handle R&R Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> It might be easier to remove the door skin <grin>. Gary Derian > > Maybe you were thinking of a 4-door, which looks easy? The Bentley > manual gives 11 steps for removing the glass in a 2-door (after > removing the interior panel); reassembly includes the reverse of > those 11 plus 16 steps for aligning the glass. > > The unnecessary (IMO) interference between the handle and glass is > a real pisser. > > Curt > > Brett wrote: > > > Considering the glass takes about 3 minutes extra to remove, it's not an > > issue. > > > > But yes, in order to get the handle assembly out, the glass has to be out= > > of the way. > > > > Brett Anderson > > KMS > > > > > -----Original Message----- > > > Please tell me the Bentley manual is mistaken in saying it's > > > necessary to remove the window glass on a '92 318is to R&R > > > the front door outside handle. Please? > > > > > > Curt Ingraham > > > Oakland, CA > __________________________________________________________________________ > In memory of Michel Potheau - friend, enthusiast, founder of the BMW CCA. > > UUC Motorwerks - BMW Performance Fine-tuning and home of the Ultimate > Short Shifter - accept no substitutes! > 908-874-9092 . http://www.uucmotorwerks.com > ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 18 Feb 2004 23:19:44 -0800 From: Jim Bassett <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: Re: Track tire decisions again..... Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> At 01:03 PM 2/18/04, Mark Dadgar talked about: >The Ecstas have a design problem (and there was a subsequent compound >change that may or not alleviate this). Several compound changes, actually. Not that I would know if that fixed the issues, as I got burned by 2 sets of these stinking piles of dog sh*t. Basically, I didn't like them all that much :-) > I filled out the tech question form on the Kumho web site and got a > phone call back from an engineer in 20 minutes. I was FLOORED. Note to self: Have Mark perform all my Kumho correspondence in the future. :-) >Those tires, as well as the Toyos, want to be at 40 psi hot. Aim for that. I've found that the Toyos like 35-ish hot, in my application. Victoracers, yes 40 psi hot. Jim Bassett 1998 M3/4 1993 325is #44 JP/A5 ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 19 Feb 2004 06:57:27 -0500 From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: [EMAIL PROTECTED], [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: Falken ZIEX ZE-512 - opinions Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> I've got a stock set of 16" OEM wheels that I use on occasion, mostly on my fiance's Ti, when she cries about her 15" wheels looking like donuts. I'm looking for something relatively inexpensive, that will last a while (hence no Kumhos). I'm thinking about either the Falken's or Toyo FZ4s or even the Dunlop FM901s. Anyone have experience with these? Phil ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 19 Feb 2004 07:47:43 -0600 From: "Paul Craven" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: "Neil Maller" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>, <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: Re: <E36> 97 M3 Coolant Sensor Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Thanks Neil. Baron BMW (the ONLY dealer here in KC) was unable to figure it out, but Eurpoean Motorsport (local independent) will have the part today. Good people if anyone in the KC area needs a shop (no affiliation, just a shameless plug). Regards, Paul Craven -----Original Message----- From: Neil Maller [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Thursday, February 19, 2004 7:26 AM To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Cc: Paul Craven Subject: <E36> 97 M3 Coolant Sensor on 2/18/04 8:12 PM, "Paul Craven" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote: > I got the dreaded check engine light a few days ago, had the code read > out and it is the "coolant temp sensor". The usual parts sources keep > wanting to sell me the aux fan switch on the side of the radiator. I > don't think that sensor talks to the DME/OBDII stuff. You're right: that's not it. > Can anyone help me out with a part number or additional info the > sensor that does talk to the DME? The coolant temperature sensor is located on the driver's side of the cylinder head, under the intake manifold and between cylinders 1 and 2. You should be able to replace it with the manifold in place - you do have 12" long triple jointed fingers, right? - once you get some other stuff out of the way. Damned if I can find that sensor in the parts CD though. BMW likes to hide stuff. You'll need to have the dealer parts guy find it for you. Neil 96 M3 ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 19 Feb 2004 08:54:56 -0500 From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Cc: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: E34/M50 Alternator Issues Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> I have a 91 525i with a single vanos M50 motor transplant (not saying the displacement, don't ask:-D). When starting the car the voltage remains at 11-12 VDC and doesnt come up to the 13-14VDC mark on the gauge until I rev it up to about 2200rpm. From my observations, the car is running off the battery until the revs come up. (i.e. If the lights are on, they have the dull glows.) The question(s) is: Do I have an emerging alternator problem or is this an ECU issue or not worry about it? Many thanks, Steve ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 19 Feb 2004 08:47:12 -0800 (PST) From: Gary Derian <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: Re: E34/M50 Alternator Issues Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Sounds to me like the alternator field is not being energized. At higher rpm. the residual magneism generates enough voltage to turn it on. It may be a problem within the alternator or a wiring problem in the car. Does the charge light come on, then go out when the voltage goes up? If not the problem is in the wiring. The current to energize the field runs through that light. If the bulb is burned out, it will cause the symptoms you describe. Gary Derian --- [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: > Search the > ARCHIVES:http://www.mail-archive.com/[EMAIL PROTECTED] > > > I have a 91 525i with a single vanos M50 motor > transplant (not saying the displacement, don't > ask:-D). When starting the car the voltage remains > at 11-12 VDC and doesnt come up to the 13-14VDC mark > on the gauge until I rev it up to about 2200rpm. > From my observations, the car is running off the > battery until the revs come up. (i.e. If the lights > are on, they have the dull glows.) > > The question(s) is: Do I have an emerging alternator > problem or is this an ECU issue or not worry about > it? > > Many thanks, > Steve > ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 19 Feb 2004 10:57:15 -0500 From: Don Stevenson <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: Kumho Race tires for sale Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Hi After all the race tire talk. I have four kumho Victory Racers R compound tires for sale. Size is 205/50/15. These tires are used but still have some track and autocross days left in them. Price is $100 for all four firm. I would prefer not to ship but I will. I can deliver them in the metro Boston area. I also have some misc, E30 325 parts hanging around. Don Stevenson BMWCCA Boston Chapter 1988 325IS #49KP 1987 325IS Street **************************************************************************** This message is intended for the addressee only and may contain privileged or confidential information. Unless you are the intended recipient, you may not use, copy or disclose to anyone any information contained in this message. If you have received this message in error, please notify the author by replying to this message and then kindly delete the message. Thank you. ------------------------------ End of [bmwuucdigest] digest(15 messages) **********
