The BMW UUC Digest 
Volume 2 : Issue 34 : "text" Format

Messages in this Issue:
  Re: <E36> 97 M3 Coolant Sensor
  Re: E36 Rear Shock Mount Replacement
  Re: <E36> Worst Job (was Front Door Handle R&R)
  Re: <E36> Worst Job (was Front Door Handle R&R)
  Re: <E36> Worst Job (was Front Door Handle R&R)
  Re: <E36> Worst Job (was Front Door Handle R&R)
  E36 brake woes - update
  Re: E36 brake woes - update
  (no subject)
  Ideas on 16 inch wheels for 325
  BMW Radio Question
  Re: Where again?
  Replacement coilpacks?
  Re: Replacement coilpacks?
  Re: <E36> Worst Job (was Front Door Handle R&R)

----------------------------------------------------------------------

Date: Thu, 19 Feb 2004 17:21:25 -0500
From: Neil Maller <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: Paul Craven <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>, <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: <E36> 97 M3 Coolant Sensor
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>

on 2/19/04 4:21 PM, Paul Craven at [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
 
> Just in case anyone is keeping score, the PN is 13-621-703-993.

Ah, there it is, in the VANOS group. Go figure.

> As a side note, is it normal for a Check Engine Light to go out without being
> reset? I picked up the above sensor today, tossed it in the cupholder, and
> started the car. Voila, no CEL.  Easiest install I ever had:^)

Damn, you're good!

Neil
96 M3


------------------------------

Date: Thu, 19 Feb 2004 16:50:58 -0500
From: Neil Maller <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: E36 Rear Shock Mount Replacement
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>

on 2/19/04 2:47 PM, Gary Derian <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:

> The loads are applied at the top, why does the round
> brace go to the bottom?  Is any side load applied at
> the top that needs bracing?

I don't see a rear cross brace as having much to do with bracing the towers
against shock absorber loads as such. Simple Z3 reinforcing plates, or the
bigger Turner versions, do that just fine.

The utility of the cross brace is surely to reinforce the whole rear
structure against deformation, and it's usually attached to the shock towers
because that's a convenient and accessible place.

>From that standpoint the prototype brace seems properly triangulated to help
resist parallelogramming of the rear structure under torsional chassis
loads, assuming that those extra holes are used to weld it in place. There's
known benefit in doing this, which is why stock class racing rules won't let
you bring the roll cage down to the rear shock towers for the same effect.

I suspect one could also benefit from welding in a cross-brace to reinforce
the aperture necessitated by the rear folding set backs.

Personally I need both the folding seats and full use of my trunk for track
tires, so I guess I won't be doing either of these things.  ;)

Neil
96 M3


------------------------------

Date: Fri, 20 Feb 2004 08:54:42 -0500
From: "Brett Anderson" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: "UUC Digest" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: <E36> Worst Job (was Front Door Handle R&R)
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>


> OK Brett, we'll bite! What is the worst - in the sense of stupidly and
> unnecessarily so - job on the E36?

I think, as far as jobs go, the fuel filter on the OBDI cars is the worst
job one can need to perform on an E36.

Not because it's particularly horrible, but because it *should* be a real
simple 30 second job, and the managed to turn it into a 10 minute ordeal.

Brett Anderson
KMS

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------------------------------

Date: Fri, 20 Feb 2004 09:02:35 -0500
From: "Chris Baker" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: <E36> Worst Job (was Front Door Handle R&R)
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>

Wow, I need to practice a lot more to get this down to a 10 minute
ordeal.

Chris B.
'94 325i

-----Original Message-----
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Behalf Of Brett Anderson
Sent: Friday, February 20, 2004 8:55 AM
To: UUC Digest
Subject: Re: [UUC] <E36> Worst Job (was Front Door Handle R&R)


Search the
ARCHIVES:http://www.mail-archive.com/[EMAIL PROTECTED]



> OK Brett, we'll bite! What is the worst - in the sense of stupidly and
> unnecessarily so - job on the E36?

I think, as far as jobs go, the fuel filter on the OBDI cars is the
worst
job one can need to perform on an E36.

Not because it's particularly horrible, but because it *should* be a
real
simple 30 second job, and the managed to turn it into a 10 minute
ordeal.

Brett Anderson
KMS



------------------------------

Date: Fri, 20 Feb 2004 06:57:08 -0800
From: donna seeley <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: UUC digest <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: <E36> Worst Job (was Front Door Handle R&R)
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>

Yeah... on our planet, that would be "... a real simple 10-minute job, not a
30-minute ordeal."  :)

Donna

On 2/20/04 6:02 AM, "Chris Baker" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> 
> Wow, I need to practice a lot more to get this down to a 10 minute
> ordeal.
> 
> Chris B.
> '94 325i
> 
> -----Original Message-----
> From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Behalf Of Brett Anderson
> 
> 
>> OK Brett, we'll bite! What is the worst - in the sense of stupidly and
>> unnecessarily so - job on the E36?
> 
> I think, as far as jobs go, the fuel filter on the OBDI cars is the
> worst
> job one can need to perform on an E36.
> 
> Not because it's particularly horrible, but because it *should* be a
> real
> simple 30 second job, and the managed to turn it into a 10 minute
> ordeal.
> 
> Brett Anderson
> KMS


------------------------------

Date: Fri, 20 Feb 2004 06:34:57 -0800
From: jkerouac <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: "[uucdigest]" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: <E36> Worst Job (was Front Door Handle R&R)
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>

re: stupidest unnecessarily so job on an E36?

Gotta be removing the inside bolt on the lower rear trailing arms.

Barry

>>OK Brett, we'll bite! What is the worst - in the sense of stupidly and
>>unnecessarily so - job on the E36?
>>    
>>
>I think, as far as jobs go, the fuel filter on the OBDI cars is the worst
>job one can need to perform on an E36.
>Not because it's particularly horrible, but because it *should* be a real
>simple 30 second job, and the managed to turn it into a 10 minute ordeal.
>Brett Anderson
>KMS
>
>  
>


------------------------------

Date: Fri, 20 Feb 2004 09:08:30 -0500
From: "Chris Baker" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: "UUC Digest" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: E36 brake woes - update
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>

For those that remember and/or care, I've posted here a couple times
about the low brake pedal in my '94 E36 that I've been trying to
eradicate for 5 months.  Highlights:

- Initial low pedal.  One pump brings it up nicely.  Steady pressure
will eventually result in a pedal all the way to the floor, nothing
you'd notice in normal driving.
- Rebuilt calipers, replaced front wheel bearings, replaced master
cylinder.  Multiple pressure bleeds.  No improvement.

I finally buckled and took it to the dealer so they could perform their
fancy cycle-the-ABS flush.  They flushed and gave it back saying it was
all better.  It wasn't.  I think there is an improvement, but it's
certainly not 100%.

I took it back today and they brought out their lead technician to
discuss the issue with me.  He told me that there is nothing they can do
with the ABS system while flushing in the earlier E36s, not until '96 or
so when some sort of additional pump was put in the system.  I was quite
surprised as I've never heard this before.  He said they would probably
try an old fashioned brake pedal pump bleed because sometimes the
pressure bleed doesn't use enough pressure to get all the air.

Opinions?

Chris B.
'94 325i


------------------------------

Date: Fri, 20 Feb 2004 10:20:20 -0500
From: "Robinson, Lee" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: "'[EMAIL PROTECTED]'" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: E36 brake woes - update
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>

In the bentley for the E30 there is a procedure for bleeding ABS cars.  It
says to pump the pedal 12 times with the key in the ignition & the power on.
This really wears out your pedal pumper, but it seems to work.

Lee

> -----Original Message-----
> From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Behalf Of Chris Baker
> Sent: Friday, February 20, 2004 09:09
> To: UUC Digest
> Subject: [UUC] E36 brake woes - update
> 
> 
> Search the 
> ARCHIVES:http://www.mail-archive.com/[EMAIL PROTECTED]
> 
> 
> For those that remember and/or care, I've posted here a couple times
> about the low brake pedal in my '94 E36 that I've been trying to
> eradicate for 5 months.  Highlights:
> 
> - Initial low pedal.  One pump brings it up nicely.  Steady pressure
> will eventually result in a pedal all the way to the floor, nothing
> you'd notice in normal driving.
> - Rebuilt calipers, replaced front wheel bearings, replaced master
> cylinder.  Multiple pressure bleeds.  No improvement.
> 
> I finally buckled and took it to the dealer so they could 
> perform their
> fancy cycle-the-ABS flush.  They flushed and gave it back 
> saying it was
> all better.  It wasn't.  I think there is an improvement, but it's
> certainly not 100%.
> 
> I took it back today and they brought out their lead technician to
> discuss the issue with me.  He told me that there is nothing 
> they can do
> with the ABS system while flushing in the earlier E36s, not 
> until '96 or
> so when some sort of additional pump was put in the system.  
> I was quite
> surprised as I've never heard this before.  He said they 
> would probably
> try an old fashioned brake pedal pump bleed because sometimes the
> pressure bleed doesn't use enough pressure to get all the air.
> 
> Opinions?
> 
> Chris B.
> '94 325i
> 
> ______________________________________________________________
> ____________
> In memory of Michel Potheau - friend, enthusiast, founder of 
> the BMW CCA.
> 
> UUC Motorwerks - BMW Performance Fine-tuning and home of the Ultimate
> Short Shifter - accept no substitutes!
> 908-874-9092 . http://www.uucmotorwerks.com
> 

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 20 Feb 2004 09:54:18 -0500 (EST)
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>



Marc Plante
[EMAIL PROTECTED]

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 20 Feb 2004 10:01:43 -0500
From: "Dorffer, Rich" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Cc: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Ideas on 16 inch wheels for 325
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>

> A friend is interested in putting 16 inch wheels on his E30 325.
> He likes the Kosei K-1s, but apparently they don't make any in an
> offset that works with the E30.

> Any ideas from the list?

Alpina (very pricey though, Ben Keyes has a set though IIRC), BBS RS (again, pricey 
but pretty cool), Hartge makes some as does AC Schnitzer.

16" wheels are nice but tires are limited and it is certainly a larger wheel for E30s. 
 I personally think 15" is the best size all around.

If you really want rare, go with the BMW Z1 wheels... 16" and ET25.

Regards,

Rich

'90 325is - 16" Alpinas 
'89 325is - 14" stockers for winter
(also have got quite a collection of other 14", 15" and 16" wheels at this point...)


------------------------------

Date: Fri, 20 Feb 2004 10:01:45 -0500
From: "Dorffer, Rich" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Cc: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: BMW Radio Question
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>

> Are the little flaps that cover the installation screws on the
> radio faceplate available separately?  If so, anybody know the part
> numbers?  The radio is a CD43 business CD from a Z3.

No, they are not available separately.

Regards,

Rich

95 M3 - CD 43 head unit


------------------------------

Date: Fri, 20 Feb 2004 10:15:39 -0500 (GMT-05:00)
From: Brian Daley <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED], [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Cc: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: Re: Where again?
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>

Curt,

I noticed your name and was curious if you're talk show host Laura Ingraham's brother 
- I know she has brother named Curtis in the Bay area.

Regards,
Brian Daley
'94 325ic

-----Original Message-----
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]

Curt Ingraham
72 2002tii
Oakland, CA




------------------------------

Date: Fri, 20 Feb 2004 10:27:45 -0500
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: Replacement coilpacks?
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>

Suspect I need to replace coilpacks on my 99 M Coupe with 48,000 miles.  Which 
manufacturer's are best -- Bosch, Bremi, others?  Also, any recommendations on least 
expensive source?  Thanks.

Neil Simon
99 M Coupe
DC tags "MDORPHN"

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 20 Feb 2004 10:31:57 -0500
From: "Brett Anderson" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: "UUC Digest" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: Replacement coilpacks?
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>

Neil,

What makes you think you need to replace the coils?  They should be good for
200K miles or better.

Brett Anderson
KMS


> -----Original Message-----
>
> Suspect I need to replace coilpacks on my 99 M Coupe with 48,000
> miles.  Which manufacturer's are best -- Bosch, Bremi, others?
> Also, any recommendations on least expensive source?  Thanks.
>
> Neil Simon

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------------------------------

Date: Fri, 20 Feb 2004 07:41:55 -0800 (PST)
From: david kroth <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: Re: <E36> Worst Job (was Front Door Handle R&R)
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>



Neil,

Yeah, a starter with nut/bolt instead of nut/stud
is a real pain.  I ended up using crazy glue to
hold the nut in place while I threaded the bolt
from the back.

Other "bad" E36 jobs:

 - Removing the block drain.  VERY hard to do from
   the top (though I recall Brett says that's
   how he does it).  If you do it from the bottom
   you WILL get a shower of coolant.  It goes
   everywhere as it bounces off the exhaust.

 - Old style fuel filter.  The filter is right up
   next to the starter, if that gives you any
   indication of accessability.


> OK Brett, we'll bite! What is the worst - in the
> sense of stupidly and
> unnecessarily so - job on the E36?
> 
> Replacing the old-style E36 starter with the loose
> nut might be one
> candidate.


=====
David Kroth
[EMAIL PROTECTED]

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