The BMW UUC Digest Volume 2 : Issue 62 : "text" Format Messages in this Issue: Re: [bmwuucdigest] digest(15 messages) Re: E34 540i issues Re: Dyno Speeds Re: Dyno Speeds Re: Neil's tall diff (was: Dyno Speeds) Re: Neil's tall diff (was: Dyno Speeds) Re: Neil's tall diff (was: Dyno Speeds) Re: Dyno Speeds Re: Dyno Speeds: Was Alutec or ASA wheels Re: <E38> Trans Fluid Change Question New Michelin Pilot Sport PS2 tire Re: New Michelin Pilot Sport PS2 tire Re: New Member BMW CCA Re: New Member BMW CCA FYI Michelin Pilot Sports...
---------------------------------------------------------------------- Date: Wed, 3 Mar 2004 10:27:14 -0500 From: "K.C. Boyce" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: Re: [bmwuucdigest] digest(15 messages) Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> We sell it for $6.50 per small bottle (~8 oz.). We also sell a larger (~16 oz.) bottle, but I haven't checked the price on it lately... <Shameless Plug>Check out www.REI.com (303 isn't there right now, we must be out at the warehouse) or your local REI store.</Shameless Plug> KC Boyce '97 M3/4 E30 Eta Page: http://www.e30eta.com ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 03 Mar 2004 10:44:59 -0500 From: Marty Fraiser <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: Re: E34 540i issues Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Hi Steve, I was thinking the same thing about the wheel size, just hoping for some confirmation that I'm not causing myself problems. According to receipts the clutch, flywheel, etc were replaced @ 76K miles, which was less than 20K miles ago. I hope it doesn't need replacing already - but I guess it's possible if someone abused it (not me, of course). Does a high engagement point indicate a worn-out clutch? I'm thinking there's probably no adjustment since it's hydraulic? I was thinking maybe the burning rubber smell was clutch but it doesn't seem to slip and it's distinctly rubber smelling to me - doesn't smell like clutch friction material. But I'm not positive and couldn't say what the clutch might smell like in this car. Thanks, Marty '96 M3 '95 540i-6 Steve Stoner wrote: >Search the ARCHIVES:http://www.mail-archive.com/[EMAIL PROTECTED] > > >Marty, > >welcome to the digest. I have a few answers comments. ><<1) The ride: Was it a mistake to get 17" wheels>> >Shouldnt think so. 17" wheels came with sport packages and M5s > > ><<2) clutch: it's been replaced but ....>>>> >In my 95 540, the clutch was good for 40-45K miles.... >You could be due.. > ><<3) burning rubber smell:>> >Is it rubber, or is that clutch? > > ><<5) transmission>> >Redline fluid change sometimes helps. Stock bushings and stuff in the >shiter mechanism are likely worn. > >That's all I know. > >Steve Stoner >97M3 >95 540iMsport - gone not forgotton >325ix, 318is, 535i, gone. > >__________________________________________________________________________ >In memory of Michel Potheau - friend, enthusiast, founder of the BMW CCA. > >UUC Motorwerks - BMW Performance Fine-tuning and home of the Ultimate >Short Shifter - accept no substitutes! >908-874-9092 . http://www.uucmotorwerks.com > > > ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 03 Mar 2004 11:01:27 -0500 From: UUC Digest Monitor <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: Re: Dyno Speeds Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> As some of you know, DynoLab in Marietta, GA is my home base. (Shameless plug: http://www.dynolab.net) When cars are tested at DynoLab, tests are always done in 4th gear (usually the gear closest to 1:1 ratio). This emanates any variations in drivetrain loss and should provide the most "true" reading. Testing a car in 6th gear, in my opinion, is abusive and unnecessary. You put additional strain on the engine & drivetrain as well as incurring the additional "danger factor" of a tire blowing out. Just my $.02, ymmv. At 12:01 AM 3/3/2004 -0500, you wrote: >Brett's point was that the dyno operator didn't need to run the car up to >that sort of speed to get a good reading. there is no difference in the >power that the engine makes in 3rd gear thru the rev range as compared to >6th. running it in 6th just seems silly. Michael K Donohue System Administrator UUC Digest http://www.uucdigest.com ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 03 Mar 2004 11:50:17 -0500 From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: Re: Dyno Speeds Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Brett - Verrrry Interesting! I always thought that the gear closest to 1:1 -- where drivetrain losses are the least -- was the best for dyno. Had no idea about the DME changing timing. What gear would you recommend that I dyno my Coupe (with the 3.15 rear end you built for me)? Thanks. Neil Simon 99 M Coupe DC tags "MDORPHN" > Above about 120mph (varies depending on model), the car needs more torque > than power to push it through the air. The DME has a vehicle speed input. > When it sees high speed, it changes the timing, reducing HP, to increase > (actually to simply maintain) torque, to get you through > the air. ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 03 Mar 2004 12:53:24 -0500 From: ben keyes <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: Re: Neil's tall diff (was: Dyno Speeds) Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Neil (not the guy with a new kidney) Simon wrote: > What gear would you recommend that I dyno my Coupe > (with the 3.15 rear end you built for me)? why go with a 3.15 as compared with the stock 3.23 in your '99 ? I know you have the JimC cams & such, but I'd think you'd not want to go taller, rather stay stock or go slightly shorter, say a 3.46. (tho there's gotta be something between a 3.23 & a 3.46, right ?) The S54 MZ3 guys were quite fond of going from their 3.15's to a 3.46 IIRC. Ben 3.46 w/euro 3.0 motor & same trans as Neil's car, more wheelbase & less weight tho :-) ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 3 Mar 2004 14:30:19 -0500 From: "Brett Anderson" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: "UUC Digest" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: Re: Neil's tall diff (was: Dyno Speeds) Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> I'll let Neil answer the why part, but interestingly, my experience is the most popular ratio for the S54 MCoupe/Roadster is actually 3.73.... Brett Anderson KMS > -----Original Message----- > Neil (not the guy with a new kidney) Simon wrote: > > > What gear would you recommend that I dyno my Coupe > > (with the 3.15 rear end you built for me)? > > why go with a 3.15 as compared with the stock 3.23 in > your '99 ? I know you have the JimC cams & such, but > I'd think you'd not want to go taller, rather stay stock > or go slightly shorter, say a 3.46. (tho there's gotta be > something between a 3.23 & a 3.46, right ?) > > The S54 MZ3 guys were quite fond of going from their 3.15's > to a 3.46 IIRC. > > Ben > 3.46 w/euro 3.0 motor & same trans as Neil's car, more > wheelbase & less weight tho :-) ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 03 Mar 2004 15:04:42 -0500 From: ben keyes <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: Re: Neil's tall diff (was: Dyno Speeds) Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Brett Anderson wrote: > I'll let Neil answer the why part, but interestingly, my experience is the > most popular ratio for the S54 MCoupe/Roadster is actually 3.73.... wow, that's a pretty short diff - I don't think I'd enjoy almost 4k revs at 80mph* on the street. they'd have to do their dyno runs in 4th to get to your target 120mph as well. actually I think Neil would as well, assuming I've got the ratios right in my excel speed calculator thing. then again both of them could be running wider/taller tires than stock & that would offset some of the revs. I've been out of the MZ3 scene for a while, the S54 cars hadn't been out too long when my lease was up. I forget what ratio diff Ron Stygar was trying to get from Germany for his powder-coated, chromed, illuminated garage queen... Ben *going to end up with these sort of revs on the track car to/from the track, but hopefully my brain won't be turned to complete mush - earplug headphones are your friend... ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 3 Mar 2004 14:35:26 -0500 From: "Brett Anderson" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: "UUC Digest" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: Re: Dyno Speeds Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Gear ratio makes no discernable difference in dyno readings. There are no more driveline losses in one gear than another. The ideal dyno run will be done in a gear that keeps the car below 120mph at redline. That'd probably be 3rd in your car with the new diff. When I first started running dyno tests, years ago, I questioned my dyno supplier on it. In order to convince me, we began testing every car in every gear except 1st. The charts could be laid over each other and make a single line. I should also add that you want to use the tallest gear that will keep you below 120mph (or thereabouts) because that will extend the sample time. The longer the sample, the more accurate the power/rpm tables. Brett Anderson KMS > -----Original Message----- > Verrrry Interesting! > > I always thought that the gear closest to 1:1 -- where > drivetrain losses are the least -- was the best for dyno. Had no > idea about the DME changing timing. > > What gear would you recommend that I dyno my Coupe (with the > 3.15 rear end you built for me)? > > Thanks. > > Neil Simon > 99 M Coupe ------------------------------ Date: 3 Mar 2004 16:30:35 -0000 From: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: Re: Dyno Speeds: Was Alutec or ASA wheels Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> > I see your point about the tires , but to complete a dyno run I would think > you need to run up to the red line. You do -- redline in 3rd gear. I have never heard of a dyno run being done in anything other than 3rd or 4th gear, with 3rd gear being the standard that most magazines use. It is just plain dangerous to run a car up to 200+ mph on a freakin' roller. -peter*g ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 3 Mar 2004 10:49:02 -0600 From: "Sam Drake" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: Re: <E38> Trans Fluid Change Question Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> I gotta ask something I will get to in the next paragraph. I have taken care of maintenance and whatever happened to all my cars including the ones the 4 children went through; 53 Oldsmobile rocket 88 holiday coupe (my first), 57 Plymouth wit push button tyranny, 63 VW Beetle, 65 Plymouth Barracuda, 69 Ford F250, 73 Oldsmobile custom cruiser, 76 Dodge Van, 80 VW Diesel Rabbit, 85 Nissan Maxima, Honda civic, Ford Pinto, two BMW 320i, Mercedes 240D I rebuilt and a few others. Wore most of these cars out. I have been very negligent of my transmission maintenance and have been just lucky. Only had transmission trouble on one car, the 85 Nissan Maxima at about 230K miles. I took it to a transmission shop that I knew to be knowledgeable honest people and got good results. But my children, and many of my friends and neighbors have had bad experiences, good money after bad, with regard to transmission repairs. I think I have missed out on some fun. With the right information and parts sources I will probably tackle my next transmission problem, a 94 Dodge Cummins 4x4 with 215K on it at this time. I hope it doesn't fail while I am working on my 85 BMW 318i with 205K that I and my wife use as the run about and somewhat daily driver on which the air conditioner has finally played out. Need to do a R134a upgrade anyway. I said all that to say this. Not many people get into their automatic transmissions so there is not much knowledge to pick up visually or by hear say. There was a time when I didn't mind risking higher cost to do it myself because I just wanted to get rid of the intimidation. I hate to drive something I do not understand, sort of a "If I own it, it's got to run" philosophy, but now it is primarily an economic decision. 1. Is the shop manual that the manufacturer puts out adequate for a mechanically inclined but otherwise ignorant mechanic. 2. Did you just have fun or did you also save money on this project? Where did you get your parts. Perhaps if from a dealer you might have been equal money to just buy another transmission somewhere; is that the case or not? For example, if I had to buy all my BMW parts in the past from the dealer, the cars would have become junk much sooner. Sometimes I have tackled a job because I wanted to get rid of the mystery or make it perform the way I wanted it to perform even though I knew I would not save enough money to justify the time and aggravation. Over all I have saved tons of money, though, by accumulating tools and familiarity with my cars. The nothing to lose idea works for me when deciding whether to risk trashing an otherwise trash car but if money is my main motivation now. Will a mostly, "feel your way through it do it yourselfer" likely come out ahead by diving into a high mileage auto transmission? I do not frequently reply to others in these discussions because there is nearly always a good answer forthcoming before I get the chance to answer. My cars have all been old enough that I was not blazing any trails with my problems. And most of you guys throw money around like it is water so my kinds of input do not apply to your needs very well. This digest has been a life saver to me however and I sincerely thank those responsible for keeping it going and those who answer so faithfully. I do buy parts from places I hear about on this digest. -----Original Message----- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Behalf Of John Bolhuis Sent: Tuesday, March 02, 2004 9:54 PM To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: Re: [UUC] <E38> Trans Fluid Change Question Search the ARCHIVES:http://www.mail-archive.com/[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Tue, 2 Mar 2004, Robinson, Lee wrote: > I was actually wondering about this whole "lifetime fluid" thing > anyway. How good are the filters in these auto trannies? If I > remember correctly, auto trans have several clutches in them along > with planetary gears & the torque converter. Now these clutches > should wear out & deposit friction material into the fluid which > then (presumably) goes through the filter. However, I would still > think this would leave a ton of gunk behind, especially on cars > that spend a lot of time in hot climates in heavy traffic (i.e. no > cooling airflow). How much crap can the filter take before it's > so clogged with crap that there's either crap blow-by or > starvation of oil, cavitation of the pump, etc? I recently rebuilt the transmission on my wife's Maxima - the car is worth $0 without a working tranny, so I had nothing to lose. :) The clutch packs are stacks of metal rings and friction material, and as far as I can see from the stuff stuck to the magnets inside, both friction material and metal are released to circulate. The filter in my case did not catch everything. There were bits of dust way up in the valve body on top of the unit that got pumped through. It looks to me like a little bit of friction material should not spell doom, at least in the unit I worked on. The sliding clearances of the valves in the valve body are very tight however, so excess gunk or a small metal shaving could easily prevent a valve from doing its thing. You can see pictures of this unit with roughly 100k miles to give you a general idea of what you'll find inside an auto tranny: <http://www.bolhuijo.com/gallery/nissan> I'm just happy that I was able to make this thing go again with new clutches, seals, gaskets, solenoid valves, and fluid. -- "It is an honor to be Cookie Monster." -Sesame Street spokeswoman Audrey Shapiro __________________________________________________________________________ In memory of Michel Potheau - friend, enthusiast, founder of the BMW CCA. UUC Motorwerks - BMW Performance Fine-tuning and home of the Ultimate Short Shifter - accept no substitutes! 908-874-9092 . http://www.uucmotorwerks.com ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 3 Mar 2004 09:47:18 -0800 (PST) From: Andre Yew <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: UUC Digest <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: New Michelin Pilot Sport PS2 tire Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Just read about the new Michelin Pilot Sport PS2 tire on autoextremist.com: http://www.autoextremist.com/page6.shtml#table (Scroll down about 2/3 of the page.) Can anyone translate the marketing-speak, especially the "Variable Contact Patch" system? The tread design also appears to be pretty different than current Pilot Sports, if that makes any difference. From the sipes on the left edge, it may be an all-season tire, too. OBMWC: it appears to be mounted on an 18-inch E46 M3 wheel --Andre ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 3 Mar 2004 13:12:04 -0500 From: "Bill Matthews" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: Re: New Michelin Pilot Sport PS2 tire Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Tire rack has them available in some sizes. For instance 275/35-18 for $284 in the YR rated Max performance summer tire category. Actually $64 cheaper than the old style pilot sport still listed. Tire rack explains a little more about the technology. <http://www.tirerack.com/tires/tires.jsp?TireMake=Michelin&tireModel=Pilot+S port+PS2&vehicleSearch=false&partnum=735YR8SPORTPS2&fromCompare1=yes> In tinyese: http://tinyurl.com/32opc The Geezemobile has worn out her S-03s so I will probably try a set of these. Bill Matthews Hockesin DE 00 M Geeze some Volvos other cars ----- Original Message ----- From: "Andre Yew" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: "UUC Digest" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Sent: Wednesday, March 03, 2004 12:47 PM Subject: [UUC] New Michelin Pilot Sport PS2 tire > Search the ARCHIVES:http://www.mail-archive.com/[EMAIL PROTECTED] > > > Just read about the new Michelin Pilot Sport PS2 tire on > autoextremist.com: > > http://www.autoextremist.com/page6.shtml#table > > (Scroll down about 2/3 of the page.) > > Can anyone translate the marketing-speak, especially the "Variable Contact > Patch" system? The tread design also appears to be pretty different than > current Pilot Sports, if that makes any difference. From the sipes on the > left edge, it may be an all-season tire, too. > > OBMWC: it appears to be mounted on an 18-inch E46 M3 wheel > > --Andre > ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 3 Mar 2004 12:37:48 -0600 (CST) From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: Re: New Member BMW CCA Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> > Search the ARCHIVES:http://www.mail-archive.com/[EMAIL PROTECTED] > > > my # is 327419. That's a lot of BMW club members! The membership numbers jumped a large gap when database system was changed. <I think>. You can find the latest membership numbers on the bmwcca.org website. Go to the sitemap and find News from National. Just because the number is 327419, that doesn't mean there has been that many members up until now. Some people let their membership lapse and get a new number. Others are able to prove that they where a member and retain their original membership number. Membership numbers are not recycled. ...steven NCC BMW CCA http://www.nccbmwcca.org/techfesteast Just added -> David Hobbs, Friday keynote speaker ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 3 Mar 2004 13:45:48 -0500 From: "Steve Stoner" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: Re: New Member BMW CCA Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> My number is 76064. And I just want to say that here in the mid-Atlantic regioin where the weather is fair, portending spring, I had a blast driving around at lunch with the windows open, enjoying the UUC exhaust on my M3. And furthermore, I picked up an Ingersol Rand 2131QT impact wrench this week and now I know what "nut bustin torque" is all about. The QT stands for quiet, and it is that. Life is good. Steve Stoner ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 3 Mar 2004 11:37:12 -0700 From: Peter B Du Bois <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: FYI Michelin Pilot Sports... Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> In the 235/40ZR-17 90Y size are selling for 155.00 incl. shipping at: http://www.discounttiredirect.com . Peter ------------------------------ End of [bmwuucdigest] digest(15 messages) **********
