The BMW UUC Digest Volume 2 : Issue 63 : "text" Format Messages in this Issue: Re: Neil's tall diff (was: Dyno Speeds) [E36 M3] SRS Light Re: Dyno Speeds: Was Alutec or ASA wheels Re: Dyno Speeds: Was Alutec or ASA wheels Why I went with a 3.15 final drive Re: Why I went with a 3.15 final drive Re: New Michelin Pilot Sport PS2 tire Re: <E38> Trans Fluid Change Question Re: <E38> Trans Fluid Change Question Re: Michelin Pilot Sports discontinue? FS VERY bent 1998 M3 2-door Re: test post Re: E34 540i issues Re: Dyno Speeds Re: Dyno Speeds
---------------------------------------------------------------------- Date: Wed, 3 Mar 2004 15:25:11 -0500 From: "Robinson, Lee" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: "'[EMAIL PROTECTED]'" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: Re: Neil's tall diff (was: Dyno Speeds) Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Wussy...... Lee 88 M3->4k rpms @80mph.....with a Flowmaster.....all the way to the track & back > > wow, that's a pretty short diff - I don't think I'd enjoy almost > 4k revs at 80mph* on the street. they'd have to do their dyno > runs in 4th to get to your target 120mph as well. > > actually I think Neil would as well, assuming I've got the ratios > right in my excel speed calculator thing. then again both of them > could be running wider/taller tires than stock & that would offset > some of the revs. > > I've been out of the MZ3 scene for a while, the S54 cars hadn't been > out too long when my lease was up. I forget what ratio diff > Ron Stygar > was trying to get from Germany for his powder-coated, chromed, > illuminated garage queen... > > > > Ben > > *going to end up with these sort of revs on the track car > to/from the track, but hopefully my brain won't be turned to > complete mush - earplug headphones are your friend... ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 03 Mar 2004 11:37:53 -0500 From: Neil Maller <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: [E36 M3] SRS Light Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> The dreaded red SRS light has been coming on intermittently, and is now constantly illuminated. A dealer diagnostic last time I was in indicates the well known problem with a seatbelt latch sensor. One was replaced under warranty several years ago, and I'm disinclined to buy this whole fairly expensive latch/pretensioner assembly to fix a problem which isn't really much of a problem. On the other hand, if the SRS system "thinks" the seatbelts aren't done up when they should be, I've read it will deploy the airbags at a lower accident impact threshold than otherwise, which doesn't seem like a good thing either. If that's correct I probably ought to do something, and not just apply a piece of black electrical tape to the afflicted area. Looking at the wiring diagram in Bentley, I see only a single seatbelt switch for 94-96 cars, on the driver's side. For 97+ they show them for both driver and passenger. The diagram also indicates internal resistors on the switch, so it's not just a simple make/break. This suggests an approach similar to that taken by some people when removing the airbag altogether, which is to insert a resistor of the correct value (3.3 ohms for the airbag) to fool the system. Has anyone been there/done that with the seatbelt switch? Neil 96 M3 ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 03 Mar 2004 11:51:44 -0500 From: Neil Maller <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: Re: Dyno Speeds: Was Alutec or ASA wheels Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> on 3/2/04 11:27 PM, "John Kjos" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote: > I see your point about the tires , but to complete a dyno run I would think > you need to run up to the red line. In 6th gear at 6500RPM they hit 220mph. Which is why dyno runs are usually done in a lower gear, often 3rd, rather than top. Whose idea was it to use 6th? If it was yours, you shouldn't have been making that decision, and if the dyno operator's, he's an incompetent moron who shouldn't be allowed anywhere near your car. 220 mph way exceeds the W (168 mph) or Y (186 mph) speed rating, depending on size, of your Bridgestone SO-3 tires. Ask yourself what would have happened if a tire, wheel or halfshaft had failed at that rotational speed. And as alluded to by Brett, you're losing a lot of power in the tires at that speed, artificially depressing the horsepower reading. Neil 96 M3 ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 3 Mar 2004 20:14:12 -0800 From: "John Kjos" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Cc: "Matt Cleary" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: Re: Dyno Speeds: Was Alutec or ASA wheels Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Neil, Not my idea, for sure to run in 6th gear...I'm a novice. It scared the hell out of me. The dyno shop is FIRED!!! I promise everyone that I'll keep my car under 186mph in the future so I don't exceed my tire speed ratings. The great news is that my car probably has more than the 314.5HP shown on the printout. Yaaahooo!!! John Kjos '99 540i/6: Dinan S '01 525iTa: Stock Portland, OR ----- Original Message ----- From: "Neil Maller" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Sent: Wednesday, March 03, 2004 8:51 AM Subject: Re: [UUC] Dyno Speeds: Was Alutec or ASA wheels > Search the ARCHIVES:http://www.mail-archive.com/[EMAIL PROTECTED] > > > on 3/2/04 11:27 PM, "John Kjos" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote: > > > I see your point about the tires , but to complete a dyno run I would think > > you need to run up to the red line. In 6th gear at 6500RPM they hit 220mph. > > Which is why dyno runs are usually done in a lower gear, often 3rd, rather > than top. > > Whose idea was it to use 6th? If it was yours, you shouldn't have been > making that decision, and if the dyno operator's, he's an incompetent moron > who shouldn't be allowed anywhere near your car. > > 220 mph way exceeds the W (168 mph) or Y (186 mph) speed rating, depending > on size, of your Bridgestone SO-3 tires. Ask yourself what would have > happened if a tire, wheel or halfshaft had failed at that rotational speed. > > And as alluded to by Brett, you're losing a lot of power in the tires at > that speed, artificially depressing the horsepower reading. > > Neil > 96 M3 > > __________________________________________________________________________ > In memory of Michel Potheau - friend, enthusiast, founder of the BMW CCA. > > UUC Motorwerks - BMW Performance Fine-tuning and home of the Ultimate > Short Shifter - accept no substitutes! > 908-874-9092 . http://www.uucmotorwerks.com > ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 03 Mar 2004 16:39:25 -0500 From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: Why I went with a 3.15 final drive Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Ben et al. - My car will be arriving at Eurosport in Salt Lake City for installation of the intercooled twin screw supercharger that Josh MacMurray and Jim Conforti developed. With a guesstimated 360 rwhp and 300+ lb-ft (over 250 ft-lb from 2,200 to redline), I'm a might concerned about liquifying my rear tires! Plus, with a 3.15 I won't even have to think about shifting to third while autoxing... I'll be beta-testing the twin screw (and, hopefully, a Racelogic traction control system) in this year's One Lap of America with co-driver Woody Hair. Neil In a message dated 3/3/2004 3:08:54 PM Eastern Standard Time, [EMAIL PROTECTED] writes: > Brett Anderson wrote: > > > I'll let Neil answer the why part, but interestingly, my experience is the > > most popular ratio for the S54 MCoupe/Roadster is > actually 3.73.... ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 3 Mar 2004 16:57:04 -0500 From: "Chris Baker" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: Re: Why I went with a 3.15 final drive Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Way cool. Try to get that system sorted out some time in the next 15 years or so when I'll be able to afford it. Chris B. -----Original Message----- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Behalf Of [EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Wednesday, March 03, 2004 4:39 PM To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: [UUC] Why I went with a 3.15 final drive Search the ARCHIVES:http://www.mail-archive.com/[EMAIL PROTECTED] Ben et al. - My car will be arriving at Eurosport in Salt Lake City for installation of the intercooled twin screw supercharger that Josh MacMurray and Jim Conforti developed. With a guesstimated 360 rwhp and 300+ lb-ft (over 250 ft-lb from 2,200 to redline), I'm a might concerned about liquifying my rear tires! Plus, with a 3.15 I won't even have to think about shifting to third while autoxing... I'll be beta-testing the twin screw (and, hopefully, a Racelogic traction control system) in this year's One Lap of America with co-driver Woody Hair. Neil ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 3 Mar 2004 13:53:04 -0800 (PST) From: Gary Derian <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: Re: New Michelin Pilot Sport PS2 tire Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> The tire has less tread void near the outside shoulder than the inside shoulder. I prefer asymmetric tires to directional tires for handling and dry traction. I really like the idea of the new Pilot Sport. If my S-03's weren't nearly new, I'd get a set myself. Gary Derian --- Andre Yew <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote: > Search the > ARCHIVES:http://www.mail-archive.com/[EMAIL PROTECTED] > > > Just read about the new Michelin Pilot Sport PS2 > tire on > autoextremist.com: > > http://www.autoextremist.com/page6.shtml#table > > (Scroll down about 2/3 of the page.) > > Can anyone translate the marketing-speak, especially > the "Variable Contact > Patch" system? The tread design also appears to be > pretty different than > current Pilot Sports, if that makes any difference. > From the sipes on the > left edge, it may be an all-season tire, too. > > OBMWC: it appears to be mounted on an 18-inch E46 M3 > wheel > > --Andre > > __________________________________________________________________________ > In memory of Michel Potheau - friend, enthusiast, > founder of the BMW CCA. > > UUC Motorwerks - BMW Performance Fine-tuning and > home of the Ultimate > Short Shifter - accept no substitutes! > 908-874-9092 . http://www.uucmotorwerks.com ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 3 Mar 2004 13:58:01 -0800 (PST) From: John Bolhuis <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: Re: <E38> Trans Fluid Change Question Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> On Wed, 3 Mar 2004, Sam Drake wrote: > because I just wanted to get rid of the intimidation. I hate to drive > something I do not understand, sort of a "If I own it, it's got to run" > philosophy, but now it is primarily an economic decision. I'm like that. I love to know how stuff works. > 1. Is the shop manual that the manufacturer puts out adequate for a > mechanically inclined but otherwise ignorant mechanic. Depends. I used Mitchell & Motor manuals from the library. (I used to think that the libary was only for rentin' up videos!) They assume a certain level of knowledge. The steps might be very detailed, but they also might refer to things you haven't identified yet. e.g. "remove the accumulator piston." > 2. Did you just have fun or did you also save money on this > project? Where did you get your parts. Perhaps if from a dealer > you might have been equal money to just buy another transmission > somewhere; is that the case or not? Both. It was great fun and I saved money. I got a rebuild kit from drivetrain.com. When I found a bad planetary gearset and solenoid valve body, I had to special order from the dealer. (no returns - order carefully!) The Nissan shop would only replace the entire unit for $3300, but my parts ran roughly $800 which is about the same as a junkyard replacement of unknown quality. > The nothing to lose idea works for me when deciding whether to > risk trashing an otherwise trash car but if money is my main > motivation now. Will a mostly, "feel your way through it do it > yourselfer" likely come out ahead by diving into a high mileage > auto transmission? Maybe. It's risky though. What if I spent $800 and failed to fix the real problem (or made it worse and destroyed the rest of the parts inside it)? Then I would still have to spend $800 more to get a junker. You should be prepared for the possible consequences ahead of time. -- "It is an honor to be Cookie Monster." -Sesame Street spokeswoman Audrey Shapiro ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 3 Mar 2004 22:18:57 -0600 From: "Sam Drake" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: Re: <E38> Trans Fluid Change Question Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> John, you gave exactly the information I was seeking. You actually understood my long explanations and hit the nail on the head. Thank you very much. $800 risked to avoid a certain $3300 is a good way to pay for the fun and fulfillment in keeping the buggy's running. The information about the parts sources and the manuals gets me off and running. I have been wanting to do this at least once. -----Original Message----- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Behalf Of John Bolhuis Sent: Wednesday, March 03, 2004 3:58 PM To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: Re: [UUC] <E38> Trans Fluid Change Question Search the ARCHIVES:http://www.mail-archive.com/[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Wed, 3 Mar 2004, Sam Drake wrote: > because I just wanted to get rid of the intimidation. I hate to drive > something I do not understand, sort of a "If I own it, it's got to run" > philosophy, but now it is primarily an economic decision. I'm like that. I love to know how stuff works. > 1. Is the shop manual that the manufacturer puts out adequate for a > mechanically inclined but otherwise ignorant mechanic. Depends. I used Mitchell & Motor manuals from the library. (I used to think that the libary was only for rentin' up videos!) They assume a certain level of knowledge. The steps might be very detailed, but they also might refer to things you haven't identified yet. e.g. "remove the accumulator piston." > 2. Did you just have fun or did you also save money on this > project? Where did you get your parts. Perhaps if from a dealer > you might have been equal money to just buy another transmission > somewhere; is that the case or not? Both. It was great fun and I saved money. I got a rebuild kit from drivetrain.com. When I found a bad planetary gearset and solenoid valve body, I had to special order from the dealer. (no returns - order carefully!) The Nissan shop would only replace the entire unit for $3300, but my parts ran roughly $800 which is about the same as a junkyard replacement of unknown quality. > The nothing to lose idea works for me when deciding whether to > risk trashing an otherwise trash car but if money is my main > motivation now. Will a mostly, "feel your way through it do it > yourselfer" likely come out ahead by diving into a high mileage > auto transmission? Maybe. It's risky though. What if I spent $800 and failed to fix the real problem (or made it worse and destroyed the rest of the parts inside it)? Then I would still have to spend $800 more to get a junker. You should be prepared for the possible consequences ahead of time. -- "It is an honor to be Cookie Monster." -Sesame Street spokeswoman Audrey Shapiro __________________________________________________________________________ In memory of Michel Potheau - friend, enthusiast, founder of the BMW CCA. UUC Motorwerks - BMW Performance Fine-tuning and home of the Ultimate Short Shifter - accept no substitutes! 908-874-9092 . http://www.uucmotorwerks.com ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 03 Mar 2004 17:11:29 -0500 From: Mike Mitchell <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: Re: Michelin Pilot Sports discontinue? Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> I wanted to order a couple of the current Sports in 245/40x17 so I would have the same size all around on a new 330ci. But I ran into an availability problem, however. Apparentely Michelin is changing over to the new PS2's, and this new tire may be shipped soon on newly ordered cars. I was told that a new shipment of the old Pilots is coming by mid March in the size I want, and that after that Michelin will continue to offer the tire in current sizes In the 'old' Pilot though this may be discontinued in the months ahead as demands wanes. Not sure what this will due to pricing on old Sports....will the price be cut because of the new tire...or will it be more? In any case, if you were thinking of getting a couple of the old Pilot Sports in the near future for one end of the car or the other, you might want to check availibility in the size you need. MIke M ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 3 Mar 2004 13:33:34 -0800 From: "BMWBits" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: "Uucdigest" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: FS VERY bent 1998 M3 2-door Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Just looked at a local auto-recyclers offering of the above car . NOT for me but someone out there may be looking ... It hit a tree or pole dead-centre on the RH door , side airbag (only !!) deployed . Body is totally bent -only salvageable bodypanel items LH door and trunklid ..everything else has at least one 'crink' in it ....dash is bowed , RH seat is half its original width rest of seats are OK .Motor reputedly still runs (!!)...rad seems to be OK . The man wants $6500 . 5-speed, diff , wheels ,shocks all salvageable ..has 90k miles on it. Located 1 mile into Ala from Tenn ..South of Nashville 75 miles , North of Birmingham Al 120 mls . I could buy it and part it out if there's enough demand , but it'd be a squeeze on an investment versus time /cash outlay versus return (5k for motor ? ..maybe ..$600 trans , 300 diff ...450 for seats (3 1/2 of them ) ..what else ??..we havent covered the outlay yet ...wheels ..struts ..) . Anyone building a race/track car ..this could be for you ....email me OFF digest . It used-to-was a wellkept rustfree car until that fateful moment when mass met immovable object ... Bill & Shirley Proud Seattle Summers , Tennessee Winters . Long Commute between , ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 3 Mar 2004 16:54:04 -0800 From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Cc: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: Re: test post Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Did it go through what? Scott Miller GGC BMW CCA >Date: Tue, 2 Mar 2004 13:26:17 -0800 (PST) >From: Paul King <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> >To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] >Subject: test post >Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> > >did this go through? sorry for the interuption. > >-paul ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 3 Mar 2004 17:21:20 -0800 From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: Re: E34 540i issues Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Marty, answeres interspersed below: >Date: Wed, 03 Mar 2004 02:00:17 -0500 >From: Marty Fraiser <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> >To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] >Subject: E34 540i issues >Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> > <snip> > >So, finally to my list of symptoms/questions and what's next. > >1) The ride: It's hard to explain but it feels kind of like any little >bump is transmitted to the body (my seat, steering wheel) from 20 mph, >or less, on up. It seems to smooth out a bit at 65 or so and doesn't >get worse with speed. So it doesn't seem to be a rotating mass but more >like metal-metal where a bushing should be. Oddly though, it's hard to >correlate the 'bumpiness' with a particular road - i.e. it might do it >on what appears to be a smooth road. I'm thinking it's probably thrust >arm bushings and/or some sort of frame bushings. Too bad you didn't do the suspension changes separate from the wheel/tire changes, then you'd know which resulted in the ride problems. In general, lower profile tires and higher inflation pressures will result in a worse ride. But you can check the bushings to see if they are OK or not. For fun, find someone with 15 inch wheels & tires and swap for a test drive. >Even though thrust arm bushings were listed among the seller's list of >replaced items they didn't show up in the stack of receipts he gave me. >I looked at them while we had the car up doing the springs/dampers but >couldn't tell much. How do I tell if they're in need of replacement? They'd be cracked, and you would be able to move the thrust arm around all over the place. >And if they are should I get the OEM arms and 750i bushings I've seen in >a few places as replacements or BavAuto has some replacements with >bushings installed? I don't think the dealer prices, even w/ CCA >discount, are something I want to pay unless I have to. Yes on the 750 bushings. I'm not sure why you would replace the whole arm, but I've never owned an E34. >Was it a mistake to get 17" wheels - that's what was on there when I >bought it and I got same size as replacements. I think even this model >came with 15" wheels and I'm wondering if the suspension just doesn't >work right with something other than it may have been designed for? See comment above about finding someone to swap with for a test. <snip> > >5) transmission: the transmission (manual) seems awfully unsmooth when >changing gears. It works ok when in gear but going through the gears >doesn't come without some thought and making sure it's actually pushed >into gear. Even moving between gears at a standstill doesn't feel >right. It's hard to explain but it feels kind of sloppy and you have to >push it through something to get in gear. I'm thinking some new tranny >fluid would help but maybe something's damaged? Switch to Redline gear lube. Not sure which kind you should use in your transmission. I have MTL in my E30 325i transmission, and it shifts very nicely, even with my short shift lever. >6) power steering: When cold (< 35 F) the steering is very stiff and >doesn't return to center. It doesn't seem to improve even when the >engine warms up. I've noticed I have a leak from the reservoir and got >some (pricey) CHF 11S fluid to keep it topped off until hopefully I >figure out where the leak is and fix it. There was fluid in the >reservoir but it didn't quite reach the cap's dipstick. It hasn't >gotten cold enough since I filled the reservoir to know if that had >anything to do with it. Any ideas on this one? Most common power steering fluid leak on BMWs that I've seen is the low pressure hose from the reservoir to the pump. A new piece of hose and good clamps might fix the problem. Or it could be something completely different. Not sure why it would not return to center. <snip> >Thanks, >Marty >'96 M3 >'95 540i 6sp Good luck, Scott Miller GGC BMW CCA ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 3 Mar 2004 19:49:01 -0800 From: "John Kjos" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Cc: "Matt Cleary" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: Re: Dyno Speeds Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Brett, Makes sense to me. Maybe the guy was taking a joy ride on the dyno at my expense. I'll call them and ask the reason why they did this. Actually, the owner of an local independent shop convinced me to use this firm instead of another one I had previously dealt with (not for dyno work). I'll ask him to explain this. Matt? Thanks, John Kjos '99 540i/6: Dinan S '01 525iTa: Stock Portland, OR ----- Original Message ----- From: "ben keyes" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Sent: Tuesday, March 02, 2004 9:01 PM Subject: Re: [UUC] Dyno Speeds > Search the ARCHIVES:http://www.mail-archive.com/[EMAIL PROTECTED] > > > > Brett's point was that the dyno operator didn't need > to run the car up to that sort of speed to get a good > reading. there is no difference in the power that > the engine makes in 3rd gear thru the rev range > as compared to 6th. running it in 6th just seems > silly. ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 3 Mar 2004 19:59:01 -0800 From: "John Kjos" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: Re: Dyno Speeds Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Brett, Good point...who else in this group has hit 220mph? Seriously now, the max HP (in 6th & about 5500RPM) was 314.5 (lots of Dinan mods). I think you are saying that if they just kept it in 4th to 6500RPM I should have seen more HP. I think I'm at least due for another complimentary run in 4th. Wish I was located close to you. do you have an idea what the difference should be? Thanks again, John Kjos '99 540i/6: Dinan S '01 525iTa: Stock Portland, OR ----- Original Message ----- From: "Brett Anderson" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: "UUC Digest" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Sent: Wednesday, March 03, 2004 6:31 AM Subject: Re: [UUC] Dyno Speeds > Search the ARCHIVES:http://www.mail-archive.com/[EMAIL PROTECTED] > > > Actually, that's not my point. > > My point is that there IS a difference in the power the car makes between > 3rd gear and 6th. > > We use 4th gear for all 6spd cars. > > Above about 120mph (varies depending on model), the car needs more torque > than power to push it through the air. The DME has a vehicle speed input. > When it sees high speed, it changes the timing, reducing HP, to increase > (actually to simply maintain) torque, to get you through the air. > > Therefore, John does not have accurate HP or Torque figures on his car. He > does have bragging rights for the speed, but that's about it. > > Like I said, he needs to find a shop that knows what they're doing. > > Brett Anderson > KMS > > > > -----Original Message----- > > > > Brett's point was that the dyno operator didn't need > > to run the car up to that sort of speed to get a good > > reading. there is no difference in the power that > > the engine makes in 3rd gear thru the rev range > > as compared to 6th. running it in 6th just seems > > silly. > > > > > __________________________________________________________________________ > In memory of Michel Potheau - friend, enthusiast, founder of the BMW CCA. > > UUC Motorwerks - BMW Performance Fine-tuning and home of the Ultimate > Short Shifter - accept no substitutes! > 908-874-9092 . http://www.uucmotorwerks.com > ------------------------------ End of [bmwuucdigest] digest(15 messages) **********
