The BMW UUC Digest Volume 2 : Issue 64 : "text" Format Messages in this Issue: Re: E34 540i issues Re: E34 540i issues Re: E34 540i issues Re: Why I went with a 3.15 final drive Re: Dyno Speeds Re: Dyno Speeds Re: <E36> HVAC question: Air only comes out of front vents Re: <E36> HVAC question: Air only comes out of front vents Re: <E36> HVAC question: Air only comes out of front vents M42 water pump choices..... <E36><FS>15x7 bbs RZs fs Re: New Michelin Pilot Sport PS2 tire Re: New Michelin Pilot Sport PS2 tire [FS] 1995 M3 E36 325ic Spring Replacement Questions
---------------------------------------------------------------------- Date: Wed, 3 Mar 2004 22:19:03 -0500 From: "Gary Derian" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: Re: E34 540i issues Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> The 540i with the sport suspension already has the M5 thrust arm bushings. A close inspection will reveal their condition, provided they were replaced with the proper bushings. There are 3 hydraulic and one all rubber thrust arm bushing for the E34. The M5 and 540i Sport get the all rubber bushing which is stiffest. I believe all US 6 speed E34 540i had the sport suspension. You say the power steering oil is Pentosin? That makes me think the car has self leveling suspension? If so, bad accumulators will account for the harsh ride. Something is wrong with the steering. Perhaps a bad upper strut mount bearing, or something else binding when the wheels are turned. Nothing wrong with 17 inch wheels, but they will ride stiffer than 15. What tires do you have? Change the transmission oil, and rear axle oil. The spec is for ATF. Use a good quality synthetic ATF. Someone may have put the wrong oil in the steering system. That would account for the stiffness when cold. Flush it out. This is complicated to do along with the rear suspension. Gary Derian <snip> > Thought I'd post some questions about a 1995 540i 6-speed I purchased > this past September. Apologies for the length but I've kinda got a > laundry list and thought some history might be in order too. <snip> ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 04 Mar 2004 10:25:34 -0500 From: Marty Fraiser <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: Re: E34 540i issues Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Hi Gary, AFAIK, all E34 540i 6-speeds have the (MTechnic?) sport suspension. I'm guessing maybe not the same as the 540i Sport and M5 but somewhere in between those and the 'normal' suspension - but I don't know the differences, if any. One recommendation I've seen a lot is to use 750/850 thrust arm bushings in lieu of stock. Since it's a common issue on these cars I'm kind of hoping the thrust arm bushings haven't been replaced and replacing the thrust arm assemblies, including ball-joint, will clear up a good portion, if not all, of the perceived issue. I'll do a closer inspection. I have Dunlop SP5000 235-45/17 tires all around and realise I'm going to have less sidewall flex than a set of 15" tires/wheels. It'd be nice to borrow some 15"-ers and see what the difference is. Hmm, I didn't think about Pentosin power-steering fluid indicating self-leveling rear but makes sense since it's shared and otherwise it would seem reasonable to use ATF. I determined it doesn't have self-leveling suspension prior to the damper replacements - but darned if I can remember how I made that determination. Oh, it was the reservoir type - I have the non-LAD reservoir w/ cap-integrated dipstick, although it does specify CHF-11S on the cap. I wish my memory worked better - I'm wondering if maybe the shop topped off the fluid with wrong type during Inspection II and that's when it may have started. After all, it's the same place (dealer!) that told me I had lifetime transmission lubrication. Geez, how could they get that wrong? Sure doesn't instill confidence that they have much of a clue. I was thinking some sort of hydraulic thing because of the temperature factor. Would that also affect something like strut bearings? No problems at all over 35 F or so. We installed new strut mounts, and the old ones seemed fine. It was doing this before the mount replacement so doesn't seem it should exhibit the behaviour through two sets of strut mounts. That's my theory anyway :) One downside to my hydraulic theory is it didn't seem to improve when engine, and presumably the fluid, warmed up - but might have been short drives when I noticed it so I'll wait for some more cold mornings to get better info. I suppose the cold could affect some rubber steering-related bits, although I can't think of any that would cause this. I will replace the transmission and rear axle oil - soon. And while I'm at it I guess I should flush/refill the power steering to see if that helps. I'll have to hurry - might not be too many more freezing cold mornings here between now and the fall. Thanks, Marty Gary Derian wrote: >Search the ARCHIVES:http://www.mail-archive.com/[EMAIL PROTECTED] > > >The 540i with the sport suspension already has the M5 thrust arm bushings. >A close inspection will reveal their condition, provided they were replaced >with the proper bushings. There are 3 hydraulic and one all rubber thrust >arm bushing for the E34. The M5 and 540i Sport get the all rubber bushing >which is stiffest. > >I believe all US 6 speed E34 540i had the sport suspension. You say the >power steering oil is Pentosin? That makes me think the car has self >leveling suspension? If so, bad accumulators will account for the harsh >ride. > >Something is wrong with the steering. Perhaps a bad upper strut mount >bearing, or something else binding when the wheels are turned. Nothing >wrong with 17 inch wheels, but they will ride stiffer than 15. What tires >do you have? > >Change the transmission oil, and rear axle oil. The spec is for ATF. Use a >good quality synthetic ATF. Someone may have put the wrong oil in the >steering system. That would account for the stiffness when cold. Flush it >out. This is complicated to do along with the rear suspension. > >Gary Derian > ><snip> > > >>Thought I'd post some questions about a 1995 540i 6-speed I purchased >>this past September. Apologies for the length but I've kinda got a >>laundry list and thought some history might be in order too. >> >> ><snip> >__________________________________________________________________________ >In memory of Michel Potheau - friend, enthusiast, founder of the BMW CCA. > >UUC Motorwerks - BMW Performance Fine-tuning and home of the Ultimate >Short Shifter - accept no substitutes! >908-874-9092 . http://www.uucmotorwerks.com > > > ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 4 Mar 2004 11:00:10 -0800 (PST) From: Gary Derian <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: Re: E34 540i issues Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> The oil won't affect the strut bearings. Maybe something is bent? The conventional PS reservoir would indicate no load leveling, but look at the rear shocks to be sure. See if there is a hose connected to them at the bottom, near the trailing arm attachment. My understanding is non LL cars use ATF for the power steering. I could be wrong. Gary Derian --- Marty Fraiser <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote: > would seem reasonable to use ATF. I determined it > doesn't have > self-leveling suspension prior to the damper > replacements - but darned > if I can remember how I made that determination. > Oh, it was the > reservoir type - I have the non-LAD reservoir w/ > cap-integrated > dipstick, although it does specify CHF-11S on the > cap. <snip> > I was thinking some sort of hydraulic thing because > of the temperature > factor. Would that also affect something like strut > bearings? No > problems at all over 35 F or so. We installed new > strut mounts, and the > old ones seemed fine. ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 04 Mar 2004 00:34:02 -0500 From: ben keyes <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: Re: Why I went with a 3.15 final drive Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> sounds very cool. keep us updated on the progress. I'd expect another quality product from Jim & Josh. does the 1-lap come thru anywhere near Michigan this year ? Ben power crazed Neil wrote: > My car will be arriving at Eurosport in Salt Lake City for installation > of the intercooled twin screw supercharger that Josh MacMurray > and Jim Conforti developed. With a guesstimated 360 rwhp and > 300+ lb-ft (over 250 ft-lb from 2,200 to redline), I'm a might > concerned about liquifying my rear tires! Plus, with a 3.15 I won't > even have to think about shifting to third while autoxing... > > I'll be beta-testing the twin screw (and, hopefully, a Racelogic > traction control system) in this year's One Lap of America > with co-driver Woody Hair. ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 3 Mar 2004 22:20:53 -0800 From: "RussC" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: Re: Dyno Speeds Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Dinan wrote a detailed write up on dyno testing with newer BMWs in responce to customer inquries(mostly over E39 ///M5 hp #s) about this issue, and others. Is a interesting read. It's under the white pages section: titled Dynamometer Testing and the Modern BMW Engine http://www.dinancars.com/default.htm RussC >-----Original Message----- >From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] >Date: Wed, 03 Mar 2004 11:01:27 -0500 >From: UUC Digest Monitor <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> >To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] >Subject: Re: Dyno Speeds >Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> > >As some of you know, DynoLab in Marietta, GA is my home base. > >(Shameless plug: http://www.dynolab.net) > >When cars are tested at DynoLab, tests are always done in 4th gear >(usually the gear closest to 1:1 ratio). This emanates any variations in >drivetrain loss and should provide the most "true" reading. > >Testing a car in 6th gear, in my opinion, is abusive and unnecessary. You >put additional strain on the engine & drivetrain as well as incurring the >additional "danger factor" of a tire blowing out. > >Just my $.02, ymmv. > >At 12:01 AM 3/3/2004 -0500, you wrote: > >>Brett's point was that the dyno operator didn't need to run the car up to >>that sort of speed to get a good reading. there is no difference in the >>power that the engine makes in 3rd gear thru the rev range as compared to >>6th. running it in 6th just seems silly. > >Michael K Donohue >System Administrator >UUC Digest ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 04 Mar 2004 09:17:15 -0500 From: ben keyes <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: Re: Dyno Speeds Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> interesting article. odd that the specifics of the issue that Brett mentioned are not included in the article, but since they take it as a given that a car will be tested in a 1:1 gear that could eliminate the problem I guess. there are a couple shops nearby with Dynapak set-ups which I'll have to check out sometime. Ben RussC wrote: > Dinan wrote a detailed write up on dyno testing with newer BMWs in > responce to customer inquries(mostly over E39 ///M5 hp #s) about > this issue, and others. Is a interesting read. > > It's under the white pages section: titled Dynamometer Testing and the > Modern BMW Engine http://www.dinancars.com/default.htm ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 4 Mar 2004 09:19:17 +0200 From: "Pavel Tcholakov" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: Re: <E36> HVAC question: Air only comes out of front vents Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> You were right, of course, it is a cable. I found that the cable is slipping off the knob. When I keep it in place and turn the knob I can feel that air starts to come out from the foot vents, but when I turn a little more to go into defrost it just slips off. Am I correct to assume that the flap/valve/cam is stuck and it's greater resistence causes the cable to come off? Pavel -----Original Message----- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Brett Anderson Sent: Wednesday, March 03, 2004 4:39 PM To: UUC Digest Subject: Re: [UUC] <E36> HVAC question: Air only comes out of front vents Search the ARCHIVES:http://www.mail-archive.com/[EMAIL PROTECTED] You mean the hot/cold wheel in the centre dash vent? That's the only electric vent control on the E36 (pre IKHA/1996), and even then, only in 93 and earlier I think. The knob that runs floor/face/defrost uses a cable that actuates a cam on the right side of the heater box, easily accessible once removing the glove box. Most likely the cable has popped out of it's retainer. Brett Anderson KMS ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 4 Mar 2004 10:01:51 -0500 From: "Brett Anderson" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: "UUC Digest" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: Re: <E36> HVAC question: Air only comes out of front vents Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> If the cable is slipping off the cam, remove it and rotate the cam by hand. If you feel it sticking, you'll have to investigate further. If it's not sticking, it could be that the cable is not being properly retained. It has a large tab on the end of the cable housing that locks into a location on the side of the heater box. If either the tab or the retaining location are damaged, you can usually repair with epoxy or a screw (recommended fix by BMW for the 318ti) Brett Anderson KMS > -----Original Message----- > You were right, of course, it is a cable. I found that the cable is > slipping off the knob. When I keep it in place and turn the knob I can > feel that air starts to come out from the foot vents, but when I turn a > little more to go into defrost it just slips off. Am I correct to assume > that the flap/valve/cam is stuck and it's greater resistence causes the > cable to come off? > > Pavel > ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 4 Mar 2004 13:11:29 -0500 From: "Chris Baker" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: Re: <E36> HVAC question: Air only comes out of front vents Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> What is required to change the whole unit? I know there is a replacement unit, which functions better, and the instructions I had to replace it were very simple. However, the addition of the passenger side airbag seems to have complicated things considerably as there is a big bar in the way, preventing removal. I didn't dig any further to see what it would take and the replacement unit has been sitting in my garage for a few years now. Chris B. '94 325i -----Original Message----- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Behalf Of Brett Anderson Sent: Thursday, March 04, 2004 10:02 AM To: UUC Digest Subject: Re: [UUC] <E36> HVAC question: Air only comes out of front vents Search the ARCHIVES:http://www.mail-archive.com/[EMAIL PROTECTED] If the cable is slipping off the cam, remove it and rotate the cam by hand. If you feel it sticking, you'll have to investigate further. If it's not sticking, it could be that the cable is not being properly retained. It has a large tab on the end of the cable housing that locks into a location on the side of the heater box. If either the tab or the retaining location are damaged, you can usually repair with epoxy or a screw (recommended fix by BMW for the 318ti) Brett Anderson KMS 908-874-9092 . http://www.uucmotorwerks.com ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 4 Mar 2004 08:51:13 -0500 From: "chet.dawes" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: M42 water pump choices..... Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Enthusiasts, Experts and Keyboard Jocks with good vehicular taste, My car has developed a faint whine that directly follows RPM. I believe it to be the water pump, although my admittedly early diagnosis may not be correct. It's pretty difficult to get my 'stethoscope' near enough to the water pump without risking tangling with belts and spinning accessories. All other accessories seem to be void of this particular noise however. No evidence of leaks anywhere, no problems heating or cooling of the engine either. Question: Which of these manufacturer options might be the best for a new replacement water pump. Prices are basically equal and as usual, quality is my main concern. Options I found so far: Geba - looks to be a cast iron impeller Laso - looks to be a plastic impeller (tan colored impeller) Graf - unknown material impeller (although looks like black plastic?) I know some 6 cyl water pumps with plastic impellers are said to be ticking time bombs, is the same true for the 4 cyl M42? I've been unable to determine either a brand or impeller material without disassembly of the one on my car. With the amount of miles on the car, I figure good preventative maintenance would warrant a replacement even if it's not the source of the noise. Ideas/Recommendations/Advice/Brands to shy away from? 1995 318ti 127k+ miles Original water pump Thanks in advance, Chet Dawes **************************************************************************************** Note: The information contained in this message may be privileged and confidential and thus protected from disclosure. If the reader of this message is not the intended recipient, or an employee or agent responsible for delivering this message to the intended recipient, you are hereby notified that any dissemination, distribution or copying of this communication is strictly prohibited. If you have received this communication in error, please notify us immediately by replying to the message and deleting it from your computer. Thank you. **************************************************************************************** ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 04 Mar 2004 12:37:06 -0500 (EST) From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: <E36><FS>15x7 bbs RZs fs Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> I have a set of BBS RZs for sale. They're dirty (track pad residue) and some of the material on one of the hubs has chipped off, but they are straight and true. Good entry-level track wheels or snow rims. $200/Obo plus shipping for the set. Marc Plante E36 325i, 220k E36 M3/4, 49k Vienna, VA ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 4 Mar 2004 10:28:57 -0800 (PST) From: Andre Yew <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: Re: New Michelin Pilot Sport PS2 tire Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> On Wed, 3 Mar 2004, Gary Derian wrote: > I prefer asymmetric tires to directional tires for > handling and dry traction. Gary, Why is this? --Andre ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 4 Mar 2004 10:40:19 -0800 (PST) From: Gary Derian <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: Re: New Michelin Pilot Sport PS2 tire Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Having designed both asymetric and directional tires, I've found that directional tread patterns offer very little hydroplaning resistance compared to standard tires. Asymmetric tread and even belt designs put the strength where it is needed, on the outer shoulder to resist the compression and buckling loads from hard cornering. Gary Derian > > On Wed, 3 Mar 2004, Gary Derian wrote: > > I prefer asymmetric tires to directional tires for > > handling and dry traction. > > Gary, > > Why is this? > > --Andre ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 4 Mar 2004 13:50:16 -0500 From: "Richard Bennett" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: [FS] 1995 M3 Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Black w/ black leather, 103,000 miles, heated seats, new tires w/in 10k miles, new water pump, thermostat and housing, radiator hoses, plugs, brake light switch, micro-filter, Mobil 1, Redline, cd changer, rear spoiler, 5-speed, sunroof, all records, very clean and well cared for. Non smoker, garaged. $11,500 obo. In addition, I have all new suspension components which have yet to be installed - Bilstein sports w/ H&R springs, new control arms and bushings, rear trailing arm bushings, E46 convertible strut mounts - would like to sell with car at discounted price, all parts are new w/in past 4 months and in box. Please call or e-mail with questions or interest 717-291-0652. Richard ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 4 Mar 2004 11:45:00 -0800 (PST) From: Brian Daley <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: E36 325ic Spring Replacement Questions Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> I have a set of new Bilstein HD struts and shocks ready to go on my 94 325ic. I purchased the HDs with the expectation of keeping the stock springs, but I've since discovered that the right rear spring is broken so I'll need new springs as well. My understanding is that the HDs are designed for stock ride height, so aftermarket lowering springs are not an option. Too bad the UUC Tuned Spring Sets aren't available for E36 applications. Are there any other aftermarket springs that maintain near-stock ride height? How much lowering can Bilstein HDs tolerate without risking damage from bottoming out? I'm thinking a set of stock take-offs are probably my best option. What are the part numbers for stock 325ic springs? Can I use 328ic springs? I assume the convertible spring rates are different from the hardtops, but other than that are physically interchangeable. Correct? If so, how much difference is there in the rates? I've read that each increment in the part number represents about a 3% increase in spring rate. True? Does anyone who has upgraded have a set of stock E36 springs they'd like to get rid of? If there's a question I should have asked but haven't, feel free to offer any other advice you may have. Thanks, Brian '94 325ic ------------------------------ End of [bmwuucdigest] digest(15 messages) **********
