The BMW UUC Digest Volume 2 : Issue 71 : "text" Format Messages in this Issue: Re: Dyno Run Mis-Information Re: Dyno Run Mis-Information Re: E30 Steering Column Question Re: E30 Steering Column Question Re: E30 Steering Column Question Re: E30 Steering Column Question Re: E30 Steering Column Question Re: <E46> M Variable Differential Lock CarFax please <WOB> Need a truck/trailer owner in Austin, TX, for a favour. [e36 M3] SS brake lines Re: [e36 M3] SS brake lines Re: [e36 M3] SS brake lines Re: [e36 M3] SS brake lines My apologies; was:RE: E30 Steering Column Question
---------------------------------------------------------------------- Date: Mon, 8 Mar 2004 20:46:13 -0500 From: "Gary Derian" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: Re: Dyno Run Mis-Information Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> 220 km/h is 137 mph. It is impossible to compare a chassis dyno run to claimed SAE net power. The "fudge factors" are just that. To really know your power, perform acceleration tests, after all, that is the goal. Gary Derian > > watching the runs. We all talked and were impressed that the car ran 220MPH. > Of course this was really about 160MPH which makes more sense. It would have <snip> > My car produced 314.5HP. If you read Dinan's literature, I should have 327HP > with the mods I have made. This assumes my car started with 282HP as spec'd ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 8 Mar 2004 22:00:52 -0800 From: "John Kjos" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: Re: Dyno Run Mis-Information Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Gary, Thanks. I just got a G2. Haven't had a chance to use it yet, but I have it at least. What 0-60 and 1/4 mile times should I expect? I faintly recall a 0-60 (stock) time of 5.7 secs. Sound right? John Kjos '99 540i/6: Dinan S '01 525iTa: Stock Portland, OR ----- Original Message ----- From: "Gary Derian" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Sent: Monday, March 08, 2004 5:46 PM Subject: Re: [UUC] Dyno Run Mis-Information > Search the ARCHIVES:http://www.mail-archive.com/[EMAIL PROTECTED] > > > 220 km/h is 137 mph. > > It is impossible to compare a chassis dyno run to claimed SAE net power. > The "fudge factors" are just that. To really know your power, perform > acceleration tests, after all, that is the goal. > > Gary Derian > > > > watching the runs. We all talked and were impressed that the car ran > 220MPH. > > Of course this was really about 160MPH which makes more sense. It would > have > <snip> > > My car produced 314.5HP. If you read Dinan's literature, I should have > 327HP > > with the mods I have made. This assumes my car started with 282HP as > spec'd > > > __________________________________________________________________________ > In memory of Michel Potheau - friend, enthusiast, founder of the BMW CCA. > > UUC Motorwerks - BMW Performance Fine-tuning and home of the Ultimate > Short Shifter - accept no substitutes! > 908-874-9092 . http://www.uucmotorwerks.com > ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 8 Mar 2004 20:42:48 -0500 From: "Gary Derian" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>, "E30 Yahoo Group" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>, "Scott & Charlotte Miller" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: Re: E30 Steering Column Question Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> That is a telescoping part. The E34 has the same arrangement. Tighten the nut just enough to eliminate the play. Excessive tightening will reduce the ability of the air bag to absorb crash energy and may cause the steering column to spear you. Gary Derian > There, it has what appears to be a slip joint that connects it to a > splined shaft that goes through the firewall. The play that is > causing the noise appears to be coming from the slip joint. OK, while > it might be called a "slip joint", I would assume it is supposed to > slip fore and aft, not with rotation. Anyway, it has a large-ish nut, > maybe brass. It is begging me to tighten it up. ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 8 Mar 2004 19:11:37 -0800 From: "Scott & Charlotte Miller" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: "Gary Derian" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>, <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>, "E30 Yahoo Group" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: Re: E30 Steering Column Question Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> All the more reason for me to get it right! Is this not quantified somewhere? Scott ----- Original Message ----- From: "Gary Derian" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>; "E30 Yahoo Group" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>; "Scott & Charlotte Miller" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Sent: Monday, March 08, 2004 5:42 PM Subject: Re: [UUC] E30 Steering Column Question > That is a telescoping part. The E34 has the same arrangement. Tighten the > nut just enough to eliminate the play. Excessive tightening will reduce > the ability of the air bag to absorb crash energy and may cause the steering > column to spear you. > Gary Derian > > > There, it has what appears to be a slip joint that connects it to a > > splined shaft that goes through the firewall. The play that is > > causing the noise appears to be coming from the slip joint. OK, while > > it might be called a "slip joint", I would assume it is supposed to > > slip fore and aft, not with rotation. Anyway, it has a large-ish nut, > > maybe brass. It is begging me to tighten it up. > > > ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 8 Mar 2004 19:51:59 -0800 From: "Scott & Charlotte Miller" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: "UUC Digest" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>, "E30 Yahoo Group" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Cc: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: Re: E30 Steering Column Question Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Hi Eric, thanks for the advice. I did exactly what you said except for one thing - the threads on the collar nut are right-hand, so I started with the wheel all the way to the left, then turned right with the BFW (large wrench) in place. (Perhaps is it the other way in your home market?) Still, it's kind of scary, based on Gary's comment, that if overtightened, a driver could get skewered in a front-end collision. I'll be doing more research into how to determine the correct tightness. Scott >Date: Mon, 8 Mar 2004 16:02:36 -0600 >From: "Eric Giles" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> >To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>, "'E30 Yahoo Group'" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> >Subject: Re: E30 Steering Column Question >Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> > >Scott- > >I have done this to two '90 E30's (a 325iS and an M3) with success in >toning down the rattle noise. The way I did it was from instructions >given by Don Fields on the E30 M3 SIG. > >First, turn the steering wheel all the way to the right. Then, got a >large open end wrench (I used an adjustable open-end) and put it on the >nut. I braced the bottom of the wrench against the floor and one of my >foot pedals. When the wrench was in place and steady, I started turning >the wheel to the left. I cannot tell you how tight to go with it, but I >got it as tight as I could. Don suggests that you hold the wrench while >a buddy turns the wheel for you. This would be easier, but you can do it >yourself if needed. > >In both cases, the knocking noise from the steering column quieted down. >The 325iS still had some noise, but not as bad. I feel the reason it >still has noise is that the rubber flex disc/u-joint in the steering >shaft is very worn and makes the remainder of the noise. The M3 was >almost totally quiet after this. > >Eric Giles >'97 M3/4 >'90 M3 ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 08 Mar 2004 22:28:10 -0600 From: Eric Giles <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: Scott & Charlotte Miller <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Cc: UUC Digest <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>, E30 Yahoo Group <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: Re: E30 Steering Column Question Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Scott- I know it sounds weird, but you really are supposed to turn the wheel to the left to tighten the nut (and I am in the US). I remember that when I read the instructions on the SIG that it did not sound correct turning the wheel this way, but if you think about it, it does make sense. And since this came from Don Fields (Mr. M Car himself) there was no way I was going to doubt his knowledge! Keeping the nut stationary while turning the shaft (wheel) to the left would give the same result as holding the shaft stationary while turing wrench to the right. Just give it a try turning the wheel to the left-it does indeed work this way! Eric Giles '97 M3/4 '90 M3 Scott & Charlotte Miller wrote: >Hi Eric, thanks for the advice. I did exactly what you said except >for one thing - the threads on the collar nut are right-hand, so I >started with the wheel all the way to the left, then turned right with >the BFW (large wrench) in place. (Perhaps is it the other way in your >home market?) Still, it's kind of scary, based on Gary's comment, >that if overtightened, a driver could get skewered in a front-end >collision. I'll be doing more research into how to determine the >correct tightness. > >Scott > > ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 8 Mar 2004 20:54:55 -0800 From: "Scott & Charlotte Miller" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: "Eric Giles" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Cc: "UUC Digest" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>, "E30 Yahoo Group" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: Re: E30 Steering Column Question Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Eric, while I hate to disagree, I climbed under the dash and checked the threads. The upper shaft has the threads on the outside, and are right-hand. Turning the wheel to the right while holding the nut stationary definitely tightens the nut. I did it and the nosie went away. Then I took a test drive, and everything feels great. Maybe they're not all the same? Scott ----- Original Message ----- From: "Eric Giles" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: "Scott & Charlotte Miller" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Cc: "UUC Digest" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>; "E30 Yahoo Group" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Sent: Monday, March 08, 2004 8:28 PM Subject: Re: E30 Steering Column Question > Scott- > > I know it sounds weird, but you really are supposed to turn the wheel to > the left to tighten the nut (and I am in the US). I remember that when I > read the instructions on the SIG that it did not sound correct turning > the wheel this way, but if you think about it, it does make sense. And > since this came from Don Fields (Mr. M Car himself) there was no way I > was going to doubt his knowledge! > > Keeping the nut stationary while turning the shaft (wheel) to the left > would give the same result as holding the shaft stationary while turing > wrench to the right. Just give it a try turning the wheel to the left-it > does indeed work this way! > > Eric Giles > '97 M3/4 > '90 M3 > > Scott & Charlotte Miller wrote: > > >Hi Eric, thanks for the advice. I did exactly what you said except > >for one thing - the threads on the collar nut are right-hand, so I > >started with the wheel all the way to the left, then turned right with > >the BFW (large wrench) in place. (Perhaps is it the other way in your > >home market?) Still, it's kind of scary, based on Gary's comment, > >that if overtightened, a driver could get skewered in a front-end > >collision. I'll be doing more research into how to determine the > >correct tightness. > > > >Scott > > > > > > ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 8 Mar 2004 22:19:25 -0500 From: "Brett Anderson" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: "UUC Digest" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: Re: <E46> M Variable Differential Lock Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> No, that's not it. The M5 has the same ABS/DSC system as the M3, and it has a conventional Salisbury LSD. It's not a new concept with BMW. With a couple of minor tweaks, it's the same diff that was installed in the rear of the E30 325iX. I can't tell you why they chose to use it, but the reason it's not all that good is because of it's delayed action. It won't begin to lock up until one wheel begins to spin, and it doesn't have enough "spring" pressure to lock it up enough. A Salisbury style diff, or Quaife, or Torsen, will lock up "automatically" on throttle input, regardless of wheel speed. Brett Anderson KMS > -----Original Message----- > The "looseness" permits the traction control, stability control, etc. and > ABS to work better. > Gary Derian > > > > > O.k. now I'm really curious--why is this diff not very good? (lack of > > performance or reliability?) Why do you suppose BMW chose it over the > > "clutch pack" type for this application? Can you give me a quick "pros > > and cons" on diffs? > > Ken Koch ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 8 Mar 2004 19:35:17 -0800 (PST) From: Paul T <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: uuc digest <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: CarFax please Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Can someone help me with this carfax? tried searching for promos and links, no luck. My Parents are looking at an used Mercedez S430 VIN: WDBNG70J62A307414 my email: [EMAIL PROTECTED] TIA!! Paul __________________________________ Do you Yahoo!? Yahoo! Search - Find what you�re looking for faster http://search.yahoo.com ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 8 Mar 2004 23:44:40 -0500 From: "Brett Anderson" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: "UUC Digest" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: <WOB> Need a truck/trailer owner in Austin, TX, for a favour. Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Sorry for the WOB. Need to move a car from Austin suburbs to Texas World Speedway on the weekend of March 18-21. There's a catch. It has to be trailered. It's a 528e with a cracked head. It can run long enough to load and unload, but can't be driven. Anyone who can help, please email me off list at [EMAIL PROTECTED] Victim, ummm, volunteer, will be reimbursed for all expenses. Thanks Brett Anderson KMS ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 09 Mar 2004 10:07:44 +0700 From: "Sean Cordone" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: [e36 M3] SS brake lines Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> I'm doing the brakes on the M3 next weekend. I decided to bring performance up a notch, so I went with the Euro floating rotors; I'm also considering stainless brake lines but I've heard two schools of thought on this issue. So which is it: "worthwhile mod for the improved pedal feel"? Or "negligible improvement for a street car, along with a long-term maintenance/reliability issues"? Thanks, --SC -- _____________________________________________________________ Web-based SMS services available at http://www.operamail.com. >From your mailbox to local or overseas cell phones. Powered by Outblaze ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 9 Mar 2004 04:17:23 -0800 From: "Marco Romani" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: Re: [e36 M3] SS brake lines Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> the biggest bang for the buck for pedal feel is bleeding your brakes. You will get a slightly better pedal feel for SS lines. And I replace mine every two years on the race car. A more aggressive pad will help pedal feel the most. BTW - IMHO you wasted $$ on the floating rotors. I have never warped the regular ones (even without ducting) and they're not "that much" heavier. cheers Marco -----Original Message----- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Behalf Of Sean Cordone Sent: Monday, March 08, 2004 7:08 PM To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: [UUC] [e36 M3] SS brake lines Search the ARCHIVES:http://www.mail-archive.com/[EMAIL PROTECTED] I'm doing the brakes on the M3 next weekend. I decided to bring performance up a notch, so I went with the Euro floating rotors; I'm also considering stainless brake lines but I've heard two schools of thought on this issue. So which is it: "worthwhile mod for the improved pedal feel"? Or "negligible improvement for a street car, along with a long-term maintenance/reliability issues"? Thanks, --SC -- _____________________________________________________________ Web-based SMS services available at http://www.operamail.com. >From your mailbox to local or overseas cell phones. Powered by Outblaze __________________________________________________________________________ In memory of Michel Potheau - friend, enthusiast, founder of the BMW CCA. UUC Motorwerks - BMW Performance Fine-tuning and home of the Ultimate Short Shifter - accept no substitutes! 908-874-9092 . http://www.uucmotorwerks.com ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 09 Mar 2004 08:38:18 -0500 From: ben keyes <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: Re: [e36 M3] SS brake lines Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Marco Romani wrote: > the biggest bang for the buck for pedal feel is bleeding your brakes. You > will get a slightly better pedal feel for SS lines. And I replace mine > every two years on the race car. A more aggressive pad will help pedal feel > the most. also, most SS lines need to be replaced most often than the stock rubber ones. for a street car it seems like overkill. > BTW - IMHO you wasted $$ on the floating rotors. I have never warped the > regular ones (even without ducting) and they're not "that much" heavier. I agree. floating rotors are only better at fade resistance & add nothing to street performance of the car (unless you're braking enough to induce fade which means you're driving too hard on the street IMHO). given that you can get solid brembo replacements for ~$50/rotor I seriously doubt that you'll get anything close to 3x the use out of the floating ones either, esp on the street. Ben ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 9 Mar 2004 06:21:22 -0800 From: "Reed" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: Re: [e36 M3] SS brake lines Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Well, jeez, for a street car, a stock M3 seems like overkill. Just about any "improvement" we make to these cars is unnecessary for street use, but it's fun! Reed/Seattle > also, most SS lines need to be replaced most often than the stock rubber > ones. for a street car it seems like overkill. ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 9 Mar 2004 08:49:55 -0600 From: "Eric A. Giles" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Cc: "UUC Digest" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: My apologies; was:RE: E30 Steering Column Question Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Scott and everyone else- I apologize for the information that I have out yesterday regarding tightening the steering column. I was just so certain that I was correct, but in the end Scott was right and I was mistaken. I NEVER give out info without trying to make certain it is correct, but yesterday I slipped. The wheel is turned to the right to tighten. I am going to paste in the instructions from Don Fields e-mail from the E30 M3 SIG list, since he had it written correctly also-it was just me that got mixed up! "From what I remember,(and that ain't too much these days) the 32mm nut is at the bottom of the steering shaft only on the cars equipped with airbags. Remove the lower dash cover, turn the steering wheel all the way to the left, install 32mm/1,1/4" wrench and have your buddy turn the wheel to the right. Keep in mind this will slightly reduce the ability of the column to collapse in the event of an accident! I do tighten them here all the time." Don Fields Autosport Performance Once again, sorry for the confusion. I will be more careful next time. Eric Giles '97 M3/4 '90 M3 > -----Original Message----- > From: Scott & Charlotte Miller [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] > Sent: Monday, March 08, 2004 10:55 PM > To: Eric Giles > Cc: UUC Digest; E30 Yahoo Group > Subject: [E30Group] Re: E30 Steering Column Question > > > Eric, while I hate to disagree, I climbed under the dash and > checked the threads. The upper shaft has the threads on the > outside, and are right-hand. Turning the wheel to the right > while holding the nut stationary definitely tightens the nut. > I did it and the nosie went away. Then I took a test drive, > and everything feels great. > > Maybe they're not all the same? > ------------------------------ End of [bmwuucdigest] digest(15 messages) **********
