The BMW UUC Digest
Volume 2 : Issue 70 : "text" Format
Messages in this Issue:
Alternator problem solved
Re: Alternator problem solved
Re: Alternator problem solved
Re: Alternator problem solved
Re: Alternator problem solved
<E36>M50: Sealing headcover
Re: <E36>M50: Sealing headcover
Re: 1997 E36 M3/4 - aluminum thermostat housing
6-speeds for E36, was V12 & V8
Re: 1997 E36 M3/4 - aluminum thermostat housing
Re: 6-speeds for E36, was V12 & V8
E30 Steering Column Question
Re: E30 Steering Column Question
<E46> M Variable Differential Lock
Re: <E46> M Variable Differential Lock
----------------------------------------------------------------------
Date: Mon, 8 Mar 2004 07:18:47 -0500
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED], [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: Alternator problem solved
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Here is a weird one...
So my original alternator probably went bad, it did have a wobble in the
shaft and my voltmeter did show a reduction in charge when the belt
squealed.
But after replacing the alternator with two different units, both of which
sounded bad - I was stumped and took the car to the dealership, thinking
the terrible noise I was hearing may be coming from the Power Steering
pump. The tensioner pulley spun freely - so it wasn't that.
Turns out the mechanic that installed the 2.5L into my 318Ti (done back in
'97, by previous owner) didn't install the top side idler pulley that
pushes down on the belt between the alternator and water pump pulley. The
dealership installed this part - noise gone, car runs like a champ (though
it ran like a champ before)
How strange. Can't figure this one out - why it ran fine before - no
noises, no squeals. But one day....
Phil
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 08 Mar 2004 08:42:02 -0500
From: Ed MacVaugh <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: Re: Alternator problem solved
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
There were two different methods of tensioning belts on E36 six cylinder
engines. Mine uses a single idler pulley with a mechanical tensioner.
The other method and the replacement method, uses a little hydraulic
strut with two pulleys. Maybe you had the former and the dealer replaced
it with the latter.
Ed
[EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
>Turns out the mechanic that installed the 2.5L into my 318Ti (done back in
>'97, by previous owner) didn't install the top side idler pulley that
>pushes down on the belt between the alternator and water pump pulley. The
>dealership installed this part - noise gone, car runs like a champ (though
>it ran like a champ before)
>
>How strange. Can't figure this one out - why it ran fine before - no
>noises, no squeals. But one day....
>
>
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 8 Mar 2004 09:29:24 -0500
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: Re: Alternator problem solved
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Well the M50 is from a 1993 325i, which leads me to believe that it should
have had the idler pulley, bolted to the top alternator bracket.
Phil
Ed MacVaugh
<[EMAIL PROTECTED] To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> cc:
Sent by: Subject: Re: [UUC] Alternator
problem solved
[EMAIL PROTECTED]
cdigest.com
03/08/2004 08:42 AM
Please respond to
bmwuucdigest
Search the ARCHIVES:http://www.mail-archive.com/[EMAIL PROTECTED]
There were two different methods of tensioning belts on E36 six cylinder
engines. Mine uses a single idler pulley with a mechanical tensioner.
The other method and the replacement method, uses a little hydraulic
strut with two pulleys. Maybe you had the former and the dealer replaced
it with the latter.
Ed
[EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
>Turns out the mechanic that installed the 2.5L into my 318Ti (done back in
>'97, by previous owner) didn't install the top side idler pulley that
>pushes down on the belt between the alternator and water pump pulley. The
>dealership installed this part - noise gone, car runs like a champ (though
>it ran like a champ before)
>
>How strange. Can't figure this one out - why it ran fine before - no
>noises, no squeals. But one day....
>
>
__________________________________________________________________________
In memory of Michel Potheau - friend, enthusiast, founder of the BMW CCA.
UUC Motorwerks - BMW Performance Fine-tuning and home of the Ultimate
Short Shifter - accept no substitutes!
908-874-9092 . http://www.uucmotorwerks.com
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 8 Mar 2004 10:37:33 -0500 (GMT-05:00)
From: Brian Daley <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: Re: Alternator problem solved
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
-----Original Message-----
>From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
<snipped>
>Turns out the mechanic that installed the 2.5L into my 318Ti (done back in
>'97, by previous owner) didn't install the top side idler pulley that
>pushes down on the belt between the alternator and water pump pulley. The
>dealership installed this part - noise gone, car runs like a champ (though
>it ran like a champ before)
>
>How strange. Can't figure this one out - why it ran fine before - no
>noises, no squeals. But one day....
2 guesses:
One, the spring in the tensioner was strong enough to keep tension on the belt without
the idler. After 7 years the spring is no longer strong enough to keep the belt from
slipping.
Two, the belt that was on there (have you replaced the belt before now?) was shorter
than stock to compensate for the missing idler and the tensioner doesn't have enough
travel to keep tension on the new stock-length belt.
Brian
'94 325ic (with new tensioner and idler 2 weeks ago)
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 8 Mar 2004 10:45:43 -0500 (GMT-05:00)
From: Brian Daley <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: Re: Alternator problem solved
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
-----Original Message-----
>From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
>Well the M50 is from a 1993 325i, which leads me to believe that it should
>have had the idler pulley, bolted to the top alternator bracket.
Yes, it should. If the tensioner is the mechanical spring-loaded type you should have
an idler on the top alternator bolt as you describe.
Brian
'94 325ic
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 08 Mar 2004 09:42:55 -0500 (EST)
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: <E36>M50: Sealing headcover
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
I need to replace my head cover gasket and note in the Bentley manual that some sort
of sealant
needs to be used in the half crescents at the back of the block. Is this something
dealer specific.
If I go to a track auto/autozone kind of place, what equivalent product am I looking
for?
Also, I noted that the torque on the cover bolts is something like 10 in/lbs (?)
wou8ld that be
finger tight? or is it time to go buy a smaller torque wrench?
Thanks,
Marc Plante
E36 325i, 220k
E36 M3/4, 49k
Vienna, VA
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 8 Mar 2004 09:57:49 -0500
From: "Brett Anderson" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: "UUC Digest" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: <E36>M50: Sealing headcover
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Use O2 sensor safe RTV. i.e., no silicone content.
Bolts should be cinched down. Not finger tight, but you don't need an 18"
breaker bar either.
Use a 1/4" drive ratchet and just give them a tweak after they bottom out.
The nuts are designed to bottom out on the stud, so they don't apply too
much pressure to the rubber gasket.
Brett Anderson
KMS
> -----Original Message-----
>
> I need to replace my head cover gasket and note in the Bentley
> manual that some sort of sealant
> needs to be used in the half crescents at the back of the block.
> Is this something dealer specific.
> If I go to a track auto/autozone kind of place, what equivalent
> product am I looking for?
>
> Also, I noted that the torque on the cover bolts is something
> like 10 in/lbs (?) wou8ld that be
> finger tight? or is it time to go buy a smaller torque wrench?
> Marc Plante
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 8 Mar 2004 10:21:10 -0500 (GMT-05:00)
From: Brian Daley <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: Re: 1997 E36 M3/4 - aluminum thermostat housing
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Peter,
Bavarian Autosport http:www.bavauto.com carries them. P/N 11 53 1 722 531 $31.95.
I think BMP and Ultimate Garage also carry them at similar prices.
Brian
'94 325ic (with AL thermostat housing)
> -----Original Message-----
> You do mean that one should replace the plastic housing as a
> preventative maintainance item, right?
>
> The source for this part is? Or, since you stock it, will you sell it to
> the public?
>
> Peter
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 8 Mar 2004 10:40:21 -0500
From: "Dorffer, Rich" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: 6-speeds for E36, was V12 & V8
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> It's probably moot but there were several weird and wonderful ratios
> available for different national market versions. 3.73 is listed for
> Japanese-market 325i automatics of the day.
Well then, surely there are tons of these sitting in Japanese junk yards waiting to be
imported into the US...
;-)
Regards,
Rich
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 08 Mar 2004 12:27:15 -0800
From: Roger Baker <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: Re: 1997 E36 M3/4 - aluminum thermostat housing
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Ah yes, the gasket difference. I keep forgetting they changed that.
Since I've had the early aluminum housing for years I was just wondering
what you meant by the early al unit being a downgrade from the later al
aftermarket units. Now I'm clear.
--
Roger Baker
"Brett Anderson" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
>There's nothing particular "wrong" with the early unit. It was replaced
>because of the availability of the plastic one (cheaper and lighter).
>
>The downside of the early aluminum unit is that it needs a paper gasket,
>whereas the aftermarket unit we use has a CNC'd groove to accept the factory
>rubber gasket.
>
>FWIW, the factory aluminum piece is NLA. It's replaced by the plastic piece
>with the rubber gasket.
>
>Brett Anderson
>KMS
>
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 08 Mar 2004 12:54:47 -0800
From: jkerouac <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: Andrew Thomas <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Cc: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: Re: 6-speeds for E36, was V12 & V8
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
re: E36 axle ratios:
Would that Japanese market 3.73 be as heavy duty as the E36 //M3 or in
the same service strength as the 3.45 from the 318i?
Barry
Brett <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> writes:
>"Zionsville Autosport is offering 6spd kit, complete with everything you
>need, using the new ZF box, for not a lot of money.
>www.zionsvilleautosport.com
>
>3.73 would have to be custom built for you. No E36 came with that ratio,
>and the E36 uses a unique housing, so you can't just swap in one from
>another vehicle. "
>
>It's probably moot but there were several weird and wonderful ratios
>available for different national market versions. 3.73 is listed for
>Japanese-market 325i automatics of the day.
>
>Andy T
>
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 8 Mar 2004 13:42:16 -0800
From: "Scott & Charlotte Miller" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: "E30 Yahoo Group" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>,
"UUC Digest" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: E30 Steering Column Question
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
I'm tracking down the source of a noise in the steering column of our
'91 325iA. Note that this is an airbag car, and there may be
differences in the column relative to the earlier non-airbag cars.
The steering shaft (the part that actually rotates with the steering
wheel) comes down from the steering wheel area towards the firewall.
There, it has what appears to be a slip joint that connects it to a
splined shaft that goes through the firewall. The play that is
causing the noise appears to be coming from the slip joint. OK, while
it might be called a "slip joint", I would assume it is supposed to
slip fore and aft, not with rotation. Anyway, it has a large-ish nut,
maybe brass. It is begging me to tighten it up.
Wishing to avoid possible over-tightening, I thought I'd look in the
Bentelely manual for a torque value, or some other clue as to the
amount of tightness required. On page 13-39, figure 7.3 shows a
steering column where it goes through the firewall. Only, it is
completely different than our car. The actual rotating part of the
column is hidden inside a tube. The tube attaches to the firewall.
I'm sure this picture is from a non-airbag car, and conclude that the
airbag column must be different.
Right? Or is my car supposed to have this tube that hides the actual
steering column?
Any insight would be appreciated, including how much to tighten the
collar nut on the shaft (which, of course, I'd have to estimate, since
a torque wrench will not work here), and/or how to tell if this thing
is worn out and in need of replacement.
Please include a cc to this address if you reply to the list. Since
I'm in Digest mode, when I might see your reply is entirely dependent
on how many of you feel like chatting today.
TIA,
Scott Miller
GGC BMW CCA
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 8 Mar 2004 16:02:36 -0600
From: "Eric Giles" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>, "'E30 Yahoo Group'" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: E30 Steering Column Question
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Scott-
I have done this to two '90 E30's (a 325iS and an M3) with success in
toning down the rattle noise. The way I did it was from instructions
given by Don Fields on the E30 M3 SIG.
First, turn the steering wheel all the way to the right. Then, got a
large open end wrench (I used an adjustable open-end) and put it on the
nut. I braced the bottom of the wrench against the floor and one of my
foot pedals. When the wrench was in place and steady, I started turning
the wheel to the left. I cannot tell you how tight to go with it, but I
got it as tight as I could. Don suggests that you hold the wrench while
a buddy turns the wheel for you. This would be easier, but you can do it
yourself if needed.
In both cases, the knocking noise from the steering column quieted down.
The 325iS still had some noise, but not as bad. I feel the reason it
still has noise is that the rubber flex disc/u-joint in the steering
shaft is very worn and makes the remainder of the noise. The M3 was
almost totally quiet after this.
Eric Giles
'97 M3/4
'90 M3
> -----Original Message-----
> From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Scott
> & Charlotte Miller
> Sent: Monday, March 08, 2004 3:42 PM
> To: E30 Yahoo Group; UUC Digest
> Subject: [UUC] E30 Steering Column Question
>
>
> Search the
> ARCHIVES:http://www.mail-archive.com/[EMAIL PROTECTED]
>
>
> I'm tracking down the source of a noise in the steering
> column of our '91 325iA. Note that this is an airbag car,
> and there may be differences in the column relative to the
> earlier non-airbag cars.
>
> The steering shaft (the part that actually rotates with the steering
> wheel) comes down from the steering wheel area towards the
> firewall. There, it has what appears to be a slip joint that
> connects it to a splined shaft that goes through the
> firewall. The play that is causing the noise appears to be
> coming from the slip joint. OK, while it might be called a
> "slip joint", I would assume it is supposed to slip fore and
> aft, not with rotation. Anyway, it has a large-ish nut,
> maybe brass. It is begging me to tighten it up.
>
> Wishing to avoid possible over-tightening, I thought I'd look
> in the Bentelely manual for a torque value, or some other
> clue as to the amount of tightness required. On page 13-39,
> figure 7.3 shows a steering column where it goes through the
> firewall. Only, it is completely different than our car.
> The actual rotating part of the column is hidden inside a
> tube. The tube attaches to the firewall. I'm sure this
> picture is from a non-airbag car, and conclude that the
> airbag column must be different.
>
> Right? Or is my car supposed to have this tube that hides
> the actual steering column?
>
> Any insight would be appreciated, including how much to
> tighten the collar nut on the shaft (which, of course, I'd
> have to estimate, since a torque wrench will not work here),
> and/or how to tell if this thing is worn out and in need of
> replacement.
>
> Please include a cc to this address if you reply to the list.
> Since I'm in Digest mode, when I might see your reply is
> entirely dependent on how many of you feel like chatting today.
>
> TIA,
>
> Scott Miller
> GGC BMW CCA
>
>
>
> ______________________________________________________________
> ____________
> In memory of Michel Potheau - friend, enthusiast, founder of
> the BMW CCA.
>
> UUC Motorwerks - BMW Performance Fine-tuning and home of the
> Ultimate Short Shifter - accept no substitutes! 908-874-9092
> . http://www.uucmotorwerks.com
>
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 8 Mar 2004 18:15:11 -0600
From: "Ken & Marje" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: <E46> M Variable Differential Lock
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Brett and all,
O.k. now I'm really curious--why is this diff not very good? (lack of
performance or reliability?) Why do you suppose BMW chose it over the
"clutch pack" type for this application? Can you give me a quick "pros
and cons" on diffs?
Thanks,
Ken Koch
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 8 Mar 2004 21:40:28 -0500
From: "Gary Derian" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: <E46> M Variable Differential Lock
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
The "looseness" permits the traction control, stability control, etc. and
ABS to work better.
Gary Derian
>
> O.k. now I'm really curious--why is this diff not very good? (lack of
> performance or reliability?) Why do you suppose BMW chose it over the
> "clutch pack" type for this application? Can you give me a quick "pros
> and cons" on diffs?
>
> Thanks,
>
> Ken Koch
------------------------------
End of [bmwuucdigest] digest(15 messages)
**********
