The BMW UUC Digest Volume 2 : Issue 287 : "text" Format Messages in this Issue: Re: diagnosing ABS light on '93 E36 Re: diagnosing ABS light on '93 E36 Re: diagnosing ABS light on '93 E36 Re: diagnosing ABS light on '93 E36 Re: diagnosing ABS light on '93 E36 Re: diagnosing ABS light on '93 E36 Re: diagnosing ABS light on '93 E36 Re: Cam removal without the Factory tool E30 Bilstein Sports For Sale Re: Maint Intervals Re: Maint Intervals Re: Maint Intervals
---------------------------------------------------------------------- Date: Fri, 23 Jul 2004 09:08:14 -0700 (PDT) From: "Neil N." <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: Re: diagnosing ABS light on '93 E36 Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> If ASC light is on as well (if so equipped) try replacing wheel speed sensors. Neil Mark Andy <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:Howdy, Our '93 325is has an ABS light illuminated on the dash... Light comes on as soon as the car is started. Two different Modis/Snap-On scanners try to read the ABS codes, then lose communication about five seconds after the codes have been read. During the latest attempt, even that wasn't reliable and the tool would report no communication from the start. One of my friends (both scanner owners are friends and pro mechanics, but not bmw specialists) thought that it was likely that the ABS computer was fried, due to the loss of communcation. I've seen on the web that there's a TSB related to an E36 ABS relay (http://member.rivernet.com.au/btaylor/BMWText/technical/ABSProblemTSBE36.html) and was going to try that just because it seems fairly cheap, but I figured I'd also post here to see if anyone has any other insights (or if there's an ITS racer who has an ABS computer that they want to give me... :-) Thanks! Mark Search the ARCHIVES:http://www.mail-archive.com/[EMAIL PROTECTED] __________________________________________________________________________ In memory of Michel Potheau - friend, enthusiast, founder of the BMW CCA. UUC Motorwerks - BMW Performance Fine-tuning and home of the Ultimate Short Shifter - accept no substitutes! 908-874-9092 . http://www.uucmotorwerks.com __________________________________ Do you Yahoo!? Vote for the stars of Yahoo!'s next ad campaign! http://advision.webevents.yahoo.com/yahoo/votelifeengine/ ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 23 Jul 2004 12:15:56 -0400 From: "[EMAIL PROTECTED]" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: Re: diagnosing ABS light on '93 E36 Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Neil, Mark, et al. I think '93 may be pre-ASC. When my ABS light came on (1993 325is) it was for the RF wheel speed sensor, IIRC. Computer/relay seem less likely. Your WS sensors may be gummed up with metal shavings and road gunk from years of use and abuse. -Jay ----------------------- > If ASC light is on as well (if so equipped) try > replacing wheel speed sensors. > > Neil > > > > Mark Andy <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:Howdy, > > Our '93 325is has an ABS light illuminated on the > dash... Light comes on > as soon as the car is started. ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 23 Jul 2004 14:38:49 -0400 From: "[EMAIL PROTECTED]" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: Re: diagnosing ABS light on '93 E36 Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Guess it depends upon how bad. Mine did. Wiring damage? Contact corrosion? Dunno. Sensor-only fixed mine. -Jay ******** > Wheel sensor errors usually don't get set until the car moves. > Gary Derian > > > Neil, Mark, et al. > > I think '93 may be pre-ASC. When my ABS light came on (1993 325is) it > > was for the RF wheel speed sensor, IIRC. > > Computer/relay seem less likely. Your WS sensors may be gummed up with > > metal shavings and road gunk from years of use and abuse. > > -Jay > > ----------------------- > > > If ASC light is on as well (if so equipped) try > > > replacing wheel speed sensors. > > > > > > Neil > > Search the ARCHIVES:http://www.mail-archive.com/[EMAIL PROTECTED] > > > __________________________________________________________________________ > In memory of Michel Potheau - friend, enthusiast, founder of the BMW CCA. > > UUC Motorwerks - BMW Performance Fine-tuning and home of the Ultimate > Short Shifter - accept no substitutes! > 908-874-9092 . http://www.uucmotorwerks.com > ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 23 Jul 2004 13:13:04 -0400 From: "Gary Derian" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: Re: diagnosing ABS light on '93 E36 Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Wheel sensor errors usually don't get set until the car moves. Gary Derian > Neil, Mark, et al. > I think '93 may be pre-ASC. When my ABS light came on (1993 325is) it > was for the RF wheel speed sensor, IIRC. > Computer/relay seem less likely. Your WS sensors may be gummed up with > metal shavings and road gunk from years of use and abuse. > -Jay > ----------------------- > > If ASC light is on as well (if so equipped) try > > replacing wheel speed sensors. > > > > Neil ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 23 Jul 2004 14:52:54 -0400 (EDT) From: Mark Andy <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: Re: diagnosing ABS light on '93 E36 Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Howdy, On Fri, 23 Jul 2004, Gary Derian wrote: > Wheel sensor errors usually don't get set until the car moves. Right. This, plus the flakey communcations with two different (but similar/same model) scanners made us suspect the control unit. And it sounds like the $25 relay provides power to the control unit so... :-) If that doesn't work, I'll probably try swapping brains with someone to see if we can isolate the problem (or at least get the damn scanners to reliably read the codes). Mark ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 23 Jul 2004 16:06:21 -0700 (PDT) From: "Neil N." <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: Re: diagnosing ABS light on '93 E36 Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Gary, when my ABS/ASC problem was happening, both lights would come on before the car even started, and a new LF wheel speed sensor fixed it. No motion required. Neil --- Mark Andy <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote: > Howdy, > > On Fri, 23 Jul 2004, Gary Derian wrote: > > Wheel sensor errors usually don't get set until > the car moves. > > Right. > > This, plus the flakey communcations with two > different (but similar/same > model) scanners made us suspect the control unit. > And it sounds like the > $25 relay provides power to the control unit so... > :-) > > If that doesn't work, I'll probably try swapping > brains with someone to > see if we can isolate the problem (or at least get > the damn scanners to > reliably read the codes). > > Mark > > Search the > ARCHIVES:http://www.mail-archive.com/[EMAIL PROTECTED] > > > __________________________________________________________________________ > In memory of Michel Potheau - friend, enthusiast, > founder of the BMW CCA. > > UUC Motorwerks - BMW Performance Fine-tuning and > home of the Ultimate > Short Shifter - accept no substitutes! > 908-874-9092 . http://www.uucmotorwerks.com > __________________________________ Do you Yahoo!? Yahoo! Mail - 50x more storage than other providers! http://promotions.yahoo.com/new_mail ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 23 Jul 2004 19:33:48 -0700 (PDT) From: Gary Derian <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: Re: diagnosing ABS light on '93 E36 Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> What was wrong with the old sensor? If it was shorted or open, there might be an instant light. When it is merely dead, the ABS needs to see 3 signals but not the 4th to know it is bad. Gary Derian --- "Neil N." <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote: > Gary, when my ABS/ASC problem was happening, both > lights would come on before the car even started, > and > a new LF wheel speed sensor fixed it. No motion > required. > > Neil ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 23 Jul 2004 11:13:25 -0500 From: "Jamie Howton" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>, <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: Re: Cam removal without the Factory tool Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> I was planning on changing the upper spring perches too, I need to remove the cams for that. Sorry I wasn't completely descriptive when I emailed. I am not exactly sure whether I will need to replace the spring perches or not, I have read somewhere that prior to 10/95 production has the weaker retainers (my car is 7/95). Although I have also come across conflicting information about the changeover dates. So if I decide not to replace the upper spring perches, after I disconnect the VaNoS I can skip the Bentley section regarding camshaft removal and jump ahead to the head removal? That would certainly be easier. Thanks Jamie Howton -----Original Message----- From: KMS - Brett Anderson [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Friday, July 23, 2004 10:44 AM To: UUC Digest Subject: Re: [UUC] Cam removal without the Factory tool More info would have helped when you emailed me Jamie. You don't need to remove the cams to change the head gasket. Brett Anderson KMS > -----Original Message----- > From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] > [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Behalf Of Jamie Howton > Sent: Friday, July 23, 2004 11:15 AM > To: E36M3; [EMAIL PROTECTED] > Subject: [UUC] Cam removal without the Factory tool > > > I am embarking on a journey to replace the cylinder head gasket on my > 95 > M3 tomorrow and am going to try and do the job without the use of the > special tool used to hold down the camshaft bearing caps while > removing all of the bolts. I have read the procedure on the pelican > parts website and it seems straighforward except for the fact that I > am doing it without a helper. My question is, has anyone here been > successful at removing/installing cams on an S50 US motor without > using the special BMW $1500 tool? Any tips or pointers? Will I > definitely ruin the camshfts if I just turn the engine so that no > pistons are at TDC and then remove the camshft bearing cap bolts 1/4 > turn at a time (I realise that this will take a long time)? I would > appreciate any and all information regarding this issue. I have rented > some of the tools from Chester Wong, but this is the one thing that he > doesn't have and he needs his tools back again the following weekend > so I need to finish the job this weekend. > > Thanks in advance for any help. > > Jamie Howton --- Outgoing mail is certified Virus Free. Checked by AVG anti-virus system (http://www.grisoft.com). Version: 6.0.725 / Virus Database: 480 - Release Date: 7/19/2004 Search the ARCHIVES:http://www.mail-archive.com/[EMAIL PROTECTED] ________________________________________________________________________ __ In memory of Michel Potheau - friend, enthusiast, founder of the BMW CCA. UUC Motorwerks - BMW Performance Fine-tuning and home of the Ultimate Short Shifter - accept no substitutes! 908-874-9092 . http://www.uucmotorwerks.com ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 23 Jul 2004 13:34:43 -0400 From: Don Stevenson <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: "'[EMAIL PROTECTED]'" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: E30 Bilstein Sports For Sale Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Hi I have a set of Bilstein Sport shocks for sale for the rear of an e30 325i/is. These were recently removed from a car and sent back to Bilstein to be tested. The Dyno test they did showed that perform identically to brand new shocks. Dyno results will be provided. Note these should be used with shorter springs than stock. $100 for the pair or best offer. I will be away from email for the next week. Don Stevenson BMWCCA Boston 1988 325IS KP#49 1987 325IS Street **************************************************************************** This message is intended for the addressee only and may contain privileged or confidential information. Unless you are the intended recipient, you may not use, copy or disclose to anyone any information contained in this message. If you have received this message in error, please notify the author by replying to this message and then kindly delete the message. Thank you. ------------------------------ Date: Sat, 24 Jul 2004 01:07:33 -0400 From: "Josh Coltrane" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: Re: Maint Intervals Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> I too, had a 9-3, and can attest to the fact that the oil coming out of that car was thick, dark, and nastier looking than in any other car I've owned, and this was after reasonable intervals, not the 12K-15K miles Saab suggested. No boost for 15 minutes? My 9-3 couldn't motivate itself out of the parking space with NO boost. I miss the hatchback space, but don't miss the car. I was more than glad to give up the 30 horsepower for a naturally aspirated inline 6. -Josh Coltrane -----Original Message----- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Michael Lawrence Sent: Friday, July 23, 2004 11:00 AM To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: Re: [UUC] Maint Intervals -> -----Original Message----- -> From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] -> [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Robinson, Lee --> Yes, but do these change intervals remain the same for -> rarely driven cars? I.e., my M3 is only driven about 3000-4000 miles -> per year. -> At 50k on gear changes, oil could be in my car for more than 10 years -> easy! It has a shelf life of that, with all the contaminants in it? Do you honostly think your motor will go 10 years without something failing which would require internal surgery? An E30? Lmao. Just kidding but only an idiot would follow that list blindly knowing they had different circumstances. -> I believe E30 M3's even specify a check of the plugs at 15k. -> Heck, they're cheap & the cars respond SO well to them. The E30 needs all the help it can get, so maybe change them at 5k??? I believe the poster was referring to E46's and my comments were about E36's. -> FWIW, I let the engine oil go 11k in my 01 Saab (syn blend -> specified by -> Saab) & it came out pretty nasty. It was clear the stuff had been -> burned, of course, BMW's don't have a turbo to heat that stuff up -> that much. Send the oil to be tested, you might be surprised that it is still good or your driving habits might be tough on the oil. You do let the car idle for 5 mins to cool down and no boost for 15 mins when first cranking? Mike Search the ARCHIVES:http://www.mail-archive.com/[EMAIL PROTECTED] ________________________________________________________________________ __ In memory of Michel Potheau - friend, enthusiast, founder of the BMW CCA. UUC Motorwerks - BMW Performance Fine-tuning and home of the Ultimate Short Shifter - accept no substitutes! 908-874-9092 . http://www.uucmotorwerks.com ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 23 Jul 2004 21:07:14 -0400 From: Martin Bullen <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: Re: Maint Intervals Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> My Dad used to work in the lubricants end of the oil biz, and I still remember some of the sermons he preached when I became responsible for the care and feeding of my own motorised vehicles: As oil ages two main things happen: It picks up contaminants (from wear, and the by-products of combustion blowing by the rings), and the additive package deteriorates. Most important amongst the components of the additive package are the Viscosity Improvers, long chain molecules that are the key to multi-grade oil. They tend to get sheared by moving parts, and are not immune to from heat, etc. As they break down, the oil will slowly return to its base state. i.e. a 10w-40 oil (ignoring the "w" for "Winter") is a 10 weight basestock, with VI's to extend the viscosity range to 40. The long and the short of it is that if you use it long enough and you'll have a straight 10 weight. Modern oils, especially synthetics, are MUCH better in this regard, but that's the gist of it. You'd expect a multigrade oil to get thinner as it ages. but the crud it picks up along the way might mitigate this trend. Martin Bullen '95 M3 '97 Z3 2.8 On Jul 23, 2004, at 11:47 AM, [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: > Date: Fri, 23 Jul 2004 08:02:03 -0700 (PDT) > From: Richard Dorffer <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> > To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] > Subject: Re: Maint Intervals > Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> > > --- "Robinson, Lee" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote: >> What about the chunks????? Well, there were no chunks per se, but >> the oil >> was not nearly as smooth as when it went in. > > Oil tends to thicken as mileage increases AFAIK. Oil will never be as > "smooth" as when it went > in... > >> It was burned....my whole >> garage now smells like I set something on fire in there.... > > If your whole garage smells like something was on fire, I would say > you have some pretty serious > oil issues. > > Later, > > Rich ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 23 Jul 2004 11:59:53 -0400 From: ben keyes <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: Re: Maint Intervals Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> yep, they've apparently figured out where/how to route the lines for the turbo on the STi as well. something about some natural convection that happens in the lines which keeps the oil from getting cooked onto the bearings in the turbo. of course if the turbo died I'd be forced to replace it with a bigger one, so I guess that wouldn't be the end of the world... Ben probably changes oil more often than strictly necessary, but the motor runs nice & toasty all the time, so it can't hurt... Lee wrote: > I do let the turbo warm up & cool down. Don't forget, I've had 7 of these > silly swedish things. Actually, the new cars don't recommend it anymore > (this used to be in bold print in the owner's manual).....I think the newer > turbos have a different cooling system allowing the oil not to get baked in > the turbo after shutdown. ------------------------------ End of [bmwuucdigest] digest(12 messages) **********
