The BMW UUC Digest 
Volume 2 : Issue 255 : "text" Format

Messages in this Issue:
  Re: [E34 Touring] Mounting CD Changer
  Re: [E34 Touring] Mounting CD Changer
  [E34 Touring] CD Changer Fuse
  Re: S$$$ happens
  Re: S$$$ happens
  Re: rear tire wear
  Re: rear tire wear
  Anyone running 18" BBS RCs with 235/40/R18s?
  Re: rear end clunking
  Re: rear end clunking
  Re: rear end clunking
  Pelican Parts Tech Articles

----------------------------------------------------------------------

Date: Fri, 2 Jul 2004 20:34:33 -0400
From: "Rob Levinson * UUC Motorwerks" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: Re: [E34 Touring] Mounting CD Changer
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>

This may help:

http://www.robertlevinson.com/M5_Touring/images/cd_changer/

-Rob

---- Original Message ----
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: RE: [UUC]  [E34 Touring] Mounting CD Changer

>Got a CDX-M30 changer and the 13->14 pin adapter.  The wiring looks
>straightforward enough, but I'm not sure about actually getting the
>thing mounted. 



------------------------------

Date: Fri, 2 Jul 2004 20:25:14 -0500
From: "Karl Zemlin" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: [E34 Touring] Mounting CD Changer
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>

That helps a lot.  They use special brackets (surprise surprise) so it looks
like I'll be drilling a few holes.

Thank you.

-----Original Message-----
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Rob Levinson * UUC
Motorwerks
Sent: Friday, July 02, 2004 7:35 PM
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: Re: [UUC] [E34 Touring] Mounting CD Changer


This may help:

http://www.robertlevinson.com/M5_Touring/images/cd_changer/

-Rob

---- Original Message ----
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: RE: [UUC]  [E34 Touring] Mounting CD Changer

>Got a CDX-M30 changer and the 13->14 pin adapter.  The wiring looks 
>straightforward enough, but I'm not sure about actually getting the 
>thing mounted.


Search the ARCHIVES:http://www.mail-archive.com/[EMAIL PROTECTED]


__________________________________________________________________________
In memory of Michel Potheau - friend, enthusiast, founder of the BMW CCA.

UUC Motorwerks - BMW Performance Fine-tuning and home of the Ultimate Short
Shifter - accept no substitutes! 908-874-9092 . http://www.uucmotorwerks.com





------------------------------

Date: Sat, 3 Jul 2004 14:46:27 -0500
From: "Karl Zemlin" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: [E34 Touring] CD Changer Fuse
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>

I'm assuming the power cable back there is already fused.
Bad assumption?  

(considering the consequenses of my being incorrect, it probably is a bad
assumption)



------------------------------

Date: Fri, 2 Jul 2004 21:32:17 -0400
From: "Rob Levinson * UUC Motorwerks" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: Re: S$$$ happens
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>

Maybe because some bikers are inconsiderate and blow by at much more
than 10mph, under conditions where the car driver could not have seen
them, and often with no consideration of the car driver's safety.  I
even suspect those that are likely to do that are more likely to lane
split in the first place, so it's an inordinately large percentage.

It's those few bad apples that spoil it for the rest, as always.

Not saying it's right for drivers to take vindictive or obstructive
action, but you have to understand how they see it.

This is a hot topic, and possibly a West/East coast thing.  As a
driver and rider in NJ, I don't understand why anyone would
deliberately ride between two cars just a few feet apart, regardless
of what's "legal".  

The risk to the rider is his own free will to take, but the risk to
my car is my own right to defend.  A cowboy rider who hit my car
while lane-splitting would be in much bigger trouble than his
injuries... I'd sue him for reckless endangerment until his Nikes
were the only ride he had left.

- Rob
(Hates drivers while riding, and everyone when driving.)


---- Original Message ----
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: Re: [UUC]  S$$$ happens

>Last time I looked, here in CA it was recommended not to lane split
>more 
>than 10 MPH faster than surrounding traffic. 
>The annoying part is when you're lane splitting and you see 
>people intentionally moving over to block you for no reason, except 
>they're pissed they're stopped. Why can't people just move aside &
>let the bikes go...
>--
>Roger



------------------------------

Date: Fri, 2 Jul 2004 23:34:43 -0700
From: John Bolhuis <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: Re: S$$$ happens
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>

On Fri, Jul 02, 2004 at 09:32:17PM -0400, Rob Levinson * UUC Motorwerks wrote:

> This is a hot topic, and possibly a West/East coast thing.  As a
> driver and rider in NJ, I don't understand why anyone would
> deliberately ride between two cars just a few feet apart, regardless
> of what's "legal". 

1) "because I can" (varies by location)
2) it's safe enough when done at *slow* speed, where lanes are wide
3) it's safer to head between cars when traffic "accordions" and 
rear-end accidents are too common during rush hour
4) leaves more space for cars by not taking up a lane
5) air cooled bikes need to keep moving

-John
  hates noone, lane splits into his own garage between his own BMWs too. 
:)

-- 
 "It is an honor to be Cookie Monster."
   -Sesame Street spokeswoman Audrey Shapiro 

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 2 Jul 2004 22:56:35 -0400
From: "Gary Derian" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: rear tire wear
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>

Highly inflated tires do not wear out in the center, the shoulder wear is
reduced but the center wear is not increased.  It may be a tire defect.
Can't tell via text.

Gary Derian



> Just got back from having my tires rotated, but ended up having to buy a
new right rear tire. It lookied like something off a Nascar car. From three
inches from the outside to the inner sidewall, the tire was bald, and
actually seperating from the inner sidewall, steel etc hanging out
everywhere.
>
> So question the question is, what could cause this kind of obvious
suspension problem? The other three tires are fine. And it wasn't inflation,
they were all the same, except this one had lost pressure the last few
days...due to the seperation. But the tire does look like I ran about 15psi
over pressure, it wore out the center grove first, then moved to the inside
of the tire.
>
> Any ideas appreciated greatly.
>
> Rick
> '95 M3



------------------------------

Date: Sat, 3 Jul 2004 06:51:01 -0400 (GMT-04:00)
From: Maverick <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: Re: rear tire wear
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>

Sounds more like a suspension/alighnment issue to me.

David in Richmond, VA

-----Original Message-----
From: Gary Derian <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Sent: Jul 2, 2004 10:56 PM
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: Re: [UUC]  rear tire wear

Highly inflated tires do not wear out in the center, the shoulder wear is
reduced but the center wear is not increased.  It may be a tire defect.
Can't tell via text.

Gary Derian



> Just got back from having my tires rotated, but ended up having to buy a
new right rear tire. It lookied like something off a Nascar car. From three
inches from the outside to the inner sidewall, the tire was bald, and
actually seperating from the inner sidewall, steel etc hanging out
everywhere.
>
> So question the question is, what could cause this kind of obvious
suspension problem? The other three tires are fine. And it wasn't inflation,
they were all the same, except this one had lost pressure the last few
days...due to the seperation. But the tire does look like I ran about 15psi
over pressure, it wore out the center grove first, then moved to the inside
of the tire.
>
> Any ideas appreciated greatly.
>
> Rick
> '95 M3


Search the ARCHIVES:http://www.mail-archive.com/[EMAIL PROTECTED]


__________________________________________________________________________
In memory of Michel Potheau - friend, enthusiast, founder of the BMW CCA.

UUC Motorwerks - BMW Performance Fine-tuning and home of the Ultimate
Short Shifter - accept no substitutes!
908-874-9092 . http://www.uucmotorwerks.com


------------------------------

Date: Sat, 3 Jul 2004 00:08:04 -0500
From: "George Trilikis" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Anyone running 18" BBS RCs with 235/40/R18s?
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>

Greetings group.  I have thouroughly melted out the the 235/35/R18 Pilot
Sports on the 95 M3 and am in need of some new rubber.  Closest I see are
the 235/40/R18 PS2s from Michelin since the 235/35 size is NLA..  Anyone
running this setup on a stock suspensioned 95 M3?  I don't think I will have
any rubbing issues and I normally don't have any rear passengers as well.

Thanks,

George Trilikis



------------------------------

Date: Fri, 2 Jul 2004 23:26:15 -0700
From: "Scott & Charlotte Miller" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: "UUC Digest" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Cc: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: rear end clunking
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>

Things that can cause a rear end clunk, in no particular order:

Loose lug bolts
Bad upper rear shock mount
Bad U-joint
Bad center support bearing (on drive shaft)

Let us know if it isn't one of these and we'll provide a longer list.

Scott  Miller
GGC BMW CCA

>Date: Fri, 2 Jul 2004 13:29:43 -0700 (PDT)
>From: Brian Ruiz <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
>To: UUC Digest <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
>Subject: rear end clunking
>Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
>
>Hi all,
>   After my whole incident I explained about trying to
>remove the left rear axle in my 93 325 and being
>unable to, I had the car towed to a shop and had them
>finish it for me.  Because of my damage from smacking
>the curb, I had them change out the trailing arm and
>the axle as well.  I noticed last night that I obtain
>a loud clunking sound, more pronounced when moving in
>reverse.  Every time I shift, there is a much quieter
>clunk, but it clunks if I let it.  If I am soft on
>releasing the clutch, I can get it not to clunk, but
>that takes some very conscious effort.  Today while
>trying to investigate, I noticed that the axle I had
>them change out for me has some lateral play...I
>assume this isn't good, but I don't know if it could
>make such a loud noise as I have heard.  When in
>reverse, there have been a few times where it almost
>sounded like some metal parts being sheared, but the
>car still rolls fine.  Could something be loose in the
>CV joint in the replaced axle that is causing the
>play, or is it the wrong axle (wrong length?)  When I
>had picked up the axle at the junkyard, the guy wasn't
>quite sure if it was from a 325 or not, as he picked
>it out from a rack of various axles.
>
>Opinions, comments, ideas welcome.
>
>TIA,
>Brian




------------------------------

Date: 03 Jul 2004 09:14:13 -0700 
From: =?ISO-8859-1?Q?Marco=20Romani?= <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: Re: rear end clunking
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>

If you can get to clunk while you push on the car while it's in gear I'll bet money 
that the bolt on the bottom of the diff carrier that goes thru a bushing and then into 
the diff is loose or the bushing is bad.

Marco
Sent from my Treo

-----Original Message-----
From:  Scott & Charlotte Miller
Date:  2-7-04 23:26
To:  UUC Digest
Cc:  [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subj:  Re: [UUC]  rear end clunking

Things that can cause a rear end clunk, in no particular order:

Loose lug bolts
Bad upper rear shock mount
Bad U-joint
Bad center support bearing (on drive shaft)

Let us know if it isn't one of these and we'll provide a longer list.

Scott  Miller
GGC BMW CCA

>Date: Fri, 2 Jul 2004 13:29:43 -0700 (PDT)
>From: Brian Ruiz <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
>To: UUC Digest <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
>Subject: rear end clunking
>Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
>
>Hi all,
>   After my whole incident I explained about trying to
>remove the left rear axle in my 93 325 and being
>unable to, I had the car towed to a shop and had them
>finish it for me.  Because of my damage from smacking
>the curb, I had them change out the trailing arm and
>the axle as well.  I noticed last night that I obtain
>a loud clunking sound, more pronounced when moving in
>reverse.  Every time I shift, there is a much quieter
>clunk, but it clunks if I let it.  If I am soft on
>releasing the clutch, I can get it not to clunk, but
>that takes some very conscious effort.  Today while
>trying to investigate, I noticed that the axle I had
>them change out for me has some lateral play...I
>assume this isn't good, but I don't know if it could
>make such a loud noise as I have heard.  When in
>reverse, there have been a few times where it almost
>sounded like some metal parts being sheared, but the
>car still rolls fine.  Could something be loose in the
>CV joint in the replaced axle that is causing the
>play, or is it the wrong axle (wrong length?)  When I
>had picked up the axle at the junkyard, the guy wasn't
>quite sure if it was from a 325 or not, as he picked
>it out from a rack of various axles.
>
>Opinions, comments, ideas welcome.
>
>TIA,
>Brian



Search the ARCHIVES:http://www.mail-archive.com/[EMAIL PROTECTED]


__________________________________________________________________________
In memory of Michel Potheau - friend, enthusiast, founder of the BMW CCA.

UUC Motorwerks - BMW Performance Fine-tuning and home of the Ultimate
Short Shifter - accept no substitutes!
908-874-9092 . http://www.uucmotorwerks.com


------------------------------

Date: Sat, 3 Jul 2004 11:55:14 -0700 (PDT)
From: "Neil N." <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: Re: rear end clunking
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>

Concurred.  Try checking and/or replacing diff
bushings.  I had a similar clunk under on/off throttle
conditions, worse in reverse.  Replaced my bushings
and voila.

Neil

Marco Romani <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:

If you can get to clunk while you push on the car
while it's in gear I'll bet money that the bolt on the
bottom of the diff carrier that goes thru a bushing
and then into the diff is loose or the bushing is bad.

Marco
Sent from my Treo

-----Original Message-----
From: Scott & Charlotte Miller
Date: 2-7-04 23:26
To: UUC Digest
Cc: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subj: Re: [UUC] rear end clunking

Things that can cause a rear end clunk, in no
particular order:

Loose lug bolts
Bad upper rear shock mount
Bad U-joint
Bad center support bearing (on drive shaft)

Let us know if it isn't one of these and we'll provide
a longer list.

Scott Miller
GGC BMW CCA

>Date: Fri, 2 Jul 2004 13:29:43 -0700 (PDT)
>From: Brian Ruiz 
>To: UUC Digest 
>Subject: rear end clunking
>Message-ID:
<[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
>
>Hi all,
> After my whole incident I explained about trying to
>remove the left rear axle in my 93 325 and being
>unable to, I had the car towed to a shop and had them
>finish it for me. Because of my damage from smacking
>the curb, I had them change out the trailing arm and
>the axle as well. I noticed last night that I obtain
>a loud clunking sound, more pronounced when moving in
>reverse. Every time I shift, there is a much quieter
>clunk, but it clunks if I let it. If I am soft on
>releasing the clutch, I can get it not to clunk, but
>that takes some very conscious effort. Today while
>trying to investigate, I noticed that the axle I had
>them change out for me has some lateral play...I
>assume this isn't good, but I don't know if it could
>make such a loud noise as I have heard. When in
>reverse, there have been a few times where it almost
>sounded like some metal parts being sheared, but the
>car still rolls fine. Could something be loose in the
>CV joint in the replaced axle that is causing the
>play, or is it the wrong axle (wrong length?) When I
>had picked up the axle at the junkyard, the guy
wasn't
>quite sure if it was from a 325 or not, as he picked
>it out from a rack of various axles.
>
>Opinions, comments, ideas welcome.
>
>TIA,
>Brian



Search the
ARCHIVES:http://www.mail-archive.com/[EMAIL PROTECTED]


__________________________________________________________________________
In memory of Michel Potheau - friend, enthusiast,
founder of the BMW CCA.

UUC Motorwerks - BMW Performance Fine-tuning and home
of the Ultimate
Short Shifter - accept no substitutes!
908-874-9092 . http://www.uucmotorwerks.com

Search the
ARCHIVES:http://www.mail-archive.com/[EMAIL PROTECTED]


__________________________________________________________________________
In memory of Michel Potheau - friend, enthusiast,
founder of the BMW CCA.

UUC Motorwerks - BMW Performance Fine-tuning and home
of the Ultimate
Short Shifter - accept no substitutes!
908-874-9092 . http://www.uucmotorwerks.com




                
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------------------------------

Date: Sat, 03 Jul 2004 09:26:30 -0400
From: Steve Lilley <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: BMW UUC Digest <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Pelican Parts Tech Articles
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>

I just visited Pelican Part's Web Site, and noticed a ton of new tech
articles (how-to's) that I don't remember seeing the last time I was
there.  No affiliation, but it looks like they're doing a really great
job!!  Check it out:

<http://www.pelicanparts.com/bmw/techarticles/tech_main.htm>

Regards,
Steve
'04 330i ZHP



------------------------------

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