The BMW UUC Digest 
Volume 2 : Issue 297 : "text" Format

Messages in this Issue:
  E30 Special Tool?
  Re: E30 Special Tool?
  <OT> Audi Parts
  E30 track/race stuff+ for sale
  <E36> - Flaky HVAC control module redux
  abs computer location, '93 325is?
  Re: abs computer location, '93 325is?
  Re: <E36>Sport option vs "328iS"?
  <E36><Misc>Rear speaker upgrades...Group Buy?
  Re: [bimmerheads] E30 Special Tool?
  compatible abs computers, e36 cars
  Re: right turn crunching update

----------------------------------------------------------------------

Date: Sun, 1 Aug 2004 20:32:37 -0700
From: "Scott & Charlotte Miller" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: "UUC Digest" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>,
   "E30 Yahoo Group" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: E30 Special Tool?
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>

Is there a special tool to remove the gas filler hose clamp from the
gas tank on an E30?  There must be, since it looks like the clamp was
installed before the subframe.  Anyone got one?  In the absence of the
special factory tool, I'm using a tiny open end wrench, coming from
behind and working over the top of the sub-frame.  I would have
expected a nice little notch in the front of the sub-frame right under
the clamp just for removal purposes.  Is that too much to ask?

Sorry, as you were.

Scott Miller
GGC BMW CCA




------------------------------

Date: Mon, 2 Aug 2004 05:26:14 -0500
From: Jenny Morgan <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: Scott & Charlotte Miller <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Cc: E30 Yahoo Group <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>,
   UUC Digest <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: E30 Special Tool?
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>

A 6mm flexible shaft nut driver would do fine.

Jenny Morgan


On Aug 1, 2004, at 10:32 PM, Scott & Charlotte Miller wrote:

> Is there a special tool to remove the gas filler hose clamp from the
> gas tank on an E30?  There must be, since it looks like the clamp was
> installed before the subframe.  Anyone got one?  In the absence of the
> special factory tool, I'm using a tiny open end wrench, coming from
> behind and working over the top of the sub-frame.  I would have
> expected a nice little notch in the front of the sub-frame right under
> the clamp just for removal purposes.  Is that too much to ask?
>
> Sorry, as you were.
>
> Scott Miller
> GGC BMW CCA
>
>
>
> Search the  
> ARCHIVES:http://www.mail-archive.com/[EMAIL PROTECTED]
>
>
> _______________________________________________________________________ 
> ___
> In memory of Michel Potheau - friend, enthusiast, founder of the BMW  
> CCA.
>
> UUC Motorwerks - BMW Performance Fine-tuning and home of the Ultimate
> Short Shifter - accept no substitutes!
> 908-874-9092 . http://www.uucmotorwerks.com


------------------------------

Date: Mon, 02 Aug 2004 07:54:30 -0400 (EDT)
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: <OT> Audi Parts
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>

Does anyone have leads for discounted parts for an Audi.  Just looking for brake 
components (Rotors
and pads).

Thanks,

 

Marc Plante
E36 M3/4, 53k
2002 Audi AR 
E36 325i, 220k [Gone]
Vienna, VA

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 2 Aug 2004 05:47:46 -0700 (PDT)
From: Carlos Lopez <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: E30 track/race stuff+ for sale
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>

All items + shipping from Southfield, MI (48034)

J-stock valved E30 Bilsteins: $400 (awesome shocks)

Advanced Design double adjustable rear shocks: $470 (new they are $400
each)

Coilover springs $50 per pair (2 springs):
In 2.5" ID (meaning fronts): 500, 375  (both 6 inches long)
In 2.25" in ID (meaning rears): 650, 500  (both 5 inches long)
(the 500f/650r was what I ran with the J-stock Bilsteins and they work
well together, not so good for the street unless you're a glutton for
punishment)

VAC Motorsports quick release for Momo/Sparco steering wheels:
$160 (used a total of two weeks, I hate selling this but I need an E36
one)

Sparco strut tower brace: $100 brand new, it didn't fit my E30 325is.

Aluminum rear strut tower brace: $80.  In great shape, I never used it
but someone else did.

Momo suede steering wheel:  I've been daily driving with it so it has
nice patina <g>, $90.

AC Schnitzer Type 1 wheels, 15x7, 13mm offset.  E34 fitment but will
fit an E30 M3 and give you that wider is better stance.  5mm spacer
required to clear the front calipers (I'll include two spacers). 
Mounted are a set of 225/50-15 Kumho Victoracer R-compound tires.  1
day of use (4 runs) at Gingerman on the tires.  Wheels+tires $700

Stock E30 325is 14" rims (basketweaves) w/ 205/60-14 Dunlop Sport A2
(lots of tread):  Wheels + tires $350

Korman modified rear subframe (adjustable toe & camber): $150

Powerflex urethane rear subrame bushings (new): $55

E30 harness bar (for autoxing only): $60

All this stuff is going on e-bay if you don't buy it up quickly! :-)
-Carlos
'88 325is
'93 325is








                
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------------------------------

Date: Mon, 2 Aug 2004 09:37:04 -0400 (EDT)
From: "Steve.Goldstein" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED], [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: <E36> - Flaky HVAC control module redux
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>

A few weeks ago I posted about the flakiness in my in-car
environmental system.  A number of folks suggested this was
the HVAC control module itself, and someone pointed me at an
excellenet website documenting a fix:

     http://www.macadamizer.com/bmwfix.html

Well, yesterday I finally had the time to attack this.  The
operation was (so far) as success.  Here are a couple of
notes - I've already sent these to the web page owner.

1.  The Multi-Function Display was a bear to remove.  In
    my '99 it's held in by three plastic clips on the top
    and the bottom.  Don't bother prying on the sides, I
    needed to pry down a little on the top of the sunglasses
    slot.

2.  The little screws that hold the faceplate onto the HVAC
    control unit, and those holding the small fan onto the
    top, are *not* Philips-head!  They are a combination of
    Torx T-7 and slotted.  If you use slotted you'll need a
    rather fine blade.

3.  The value of the failed capacitor is not very critical.
    Although the original is 0.47uF, anything close to that
    is probably fine.  I had a 0.68uF cap hanging around
    (sometimes being an electrical engineer is a good thing)
    so that's what went in.  Likewise voltage is not very
    important, most of what happens on that board is only
    5V.  Use a 35V or 50V cap and you should be fine.  I
    would not use a polarized (i.e. "electrolytic") cap in
    this application unless you can be sure of the polarity.
    I didn't bother to figure this out.

So for the next few days I'll drive around with the MFD not
quite fully installed just in case I have to take things
apart again.

Thanks to everyone for the hints and pointers.  It took me an
hour (including practice disassembly of a dead unit provided
by my mechanic) and a $0.50 component to save probably way
over $100.  These lists are great!

Steve
'99 323is, now featuring AC on demand
'91 318is, just keeps on ticking
'04 330xi, the wife has joined the fold :)

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 2 Aug 2004 10:02:52 -0400 (EDT)
From: Mark Andy <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: abs computer location, '93 325is?
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>

Howdy,

I'm away from my manuals, or I'd look this up...

Can anyone tell me where the abs computer / ecu is located on a '93 325is?

Anything weird / hard about removing it?

Mark

(who really wants the damn abs light to go off on the dash... :-/


------------------------------

Date: Mon, 02 Aug 2004 13:34:02 -0400
From: Ed MacVaugh <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED], [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: Re: abs computer location, '93 325is?
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>

Above the glove box, mine was marked with ATE markings, 10 mm wrench and 
6 inch extension (I used 1/4" drive).

Ed

Mark Andy wrote:

>Howdy,
>
>I'm away from my manuals, or I'd look this up...
>
>Can anyone tell me where the abs computer / ecu is located on a '93 325is?
>
>Anything weird / hard about removing it?
>
>Mark
>
>(who really wants the damn abs light to go off on the dash... :-/
>
>  
>


------------------------------

Date: Mon, 02 Aug 2004 10:59:58 -0400
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: Re: <E36>Sport option vs "328iS"?
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>

For the pre-'99 E36s, the factory sport package includes the 16x7 double-spoke wheels, 
sport suspension, larger swaybars front and rear, the sport seats (which have the 
adjustable bottom cushion that slides out), and the full-OBC.  Early ('92-94) E36s got 
15x7 wheels wrapped in 225/55/15 rubber which were an upgrade from the original 15" 
wheels and 205/60/15 tires.

I certainly would also be happy getting the extra interior and exterior M-Technic 
touches on the E36 in the '99 model like Dave's!

Also, keep in mind the '94 325is M-technic came with the '95 M3 suspension, brakes, 
transmission, LSD, 325 sport package seats in cloth/suede with matching door panels, 
M-technic exterior pieces, and an M3 steering wheel.

-Nick Somma
'95 325i
'03 MCS

---- Original Message ----
Date: Sun, 01 Aug 2004 08:45:10 -0400
From: Dave Meyer <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Cc: Tom Reynolds <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: <E36>Sport option vs "328iS"?
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>

The E36 328is is a two door coupe, the E36 328i is a four door sedan. My 99 
E36 328is (for sale, but probably sold) factory sport package, a $2800 
option, included ///M tuned/lowered springs, tighter struts & shocks, 
larger swaybars, 16x7 double spoke alloy wheels, ///M aerodynamics (front 
spoiler, rocker panel covers & rear diffuser), wide ///M side mouldings, 
sport seats (same as M3 Lux, very nice), ///M steering wheel & shift knob. 
I believe the late 98 328is as well as the 99 factory sport package 
included all the above items (probably cleaning out the ///M parts bins as 
the model line ended), while the earlier E36 sport packages cost less and 
included fewer of them.

One way to check out if a car has factory sport package is to look under 
the rear seat bottom (where your butt sits; just pull it up & out), and 
stapled to the underside are the factory options. There's no option per se 
for sport package, at least on mine, but if you find double spoke alloy 
wheels, sports seats, M sports suspension, and/or M steering wheel, you 
almost certainly have a factory sport package car. Hope this helps.

Dave Meyer
99 M coupe
99 328is (going, going, gon...)
03 FLHRI
Stafford VA


------------------------------

Date: Mon, 02 Aug 2004 11:53:36 -0400 (EDT)
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: <E36><Misc>Rear speaker upgrades...Group Buy?
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>

I'm looking into upgrading the stereo in my M3/4, but don't want to sink in the 
stealthbox $$$ that
I put into my 325.  I bought a set of a/d/s fron components, and will probably be 
buying an Eclipse
headunit and 4 channel amp, and I'm wondering about rear speakers.  Options include:

1) Rear 6x9s (using adapters from http://scorpion.makes.it/)
2) Rear 8" free air Subs using similar adapters to above.
3) A sealed sub box somewhere in the trunk (Don't like that idea since it would eat 
into space.)

Has anyone (other than Chuck Brazeau and Mel) done updates to 6x9s in the back of an 
E36?
Has anyone plugged in a standard free aur subwoofer rather than the Stealthboxes? 
They're a nice
implementation, but not worth the incremental $$$ IMO.

finally, is anyone interested in a Group buy for either 6x9 or 8" adapters listed 
above?  

Marc Plante
E36 M3/4, 53k
2002 Audi AR 
E36 325i, 220k [Gone]
Vienna, VA

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 2 Aug 2004 10:46:17 -0700
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Cc: [EMAIL PROTECTED], "'UUC Digest'" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: [bimmerheads] E30 Special Tool?
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>


Ha!  Actually, the hose has to come out to get a socket wrench on the right
outer trailing arm bolt, so the suspension is still in.  I was able to
remove the hose clamp by working it with a 1/4" open end wrench from my
Crapsman ignition wrench set.  It only took a half hour or so.  Actually,
the 15/64" wrench was closer to the correct size, but with little room to
manuver, it was easier to use a larger size.  Anyway, now the hose is out,
but I'm still having a heck of a time with the trailing arm bolt.  I'm
thinking about buying an extra 19mm combo wrench and a piece of pipe.  Then
hopefully I can find an angle that works better than my breaker bar.

The gas leak on the '91 325iA was fixed the weekend we came back from
O'Fest, thank you.    :^)

Scott Miller
GGC BMW CCA


                                                                                       
                                       
                                                                                       
                                       
                                               To:       <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>, "'UUC 
Digest'"                        
                                                <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>, "'E30 Yahoo 
Group'" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>       
                                               cc:                                     
                                       
                                               Subject:  RE: [bimmerheads] E30 Special 
Tool?                                  
                                                                                       
                                       


Scott -

You are working on the Ultimate Driving Machine, not the ultimate
maintenance machine!  If we can accept having to drop the front subframe to
change a pan gasket, surely it is not to much to ask to drop the rear
subframe to change a hose clamp.  Besides, with your suspension removed,
the
subframe must be quite light (or are you working on the iA, with its
"minor,
easy to fix, gas leak??).

Brant

-----Original Message-----
From: Scott & Charlotte Miller [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: Sunday, August 01, 2004 7:33 PM

Is there a special tool to remove the gas filler hose clamp from the
gas tank on an E30?  There must be, since it looks like the clamp was
installed before the subframe.  Anyone got one?  In the absence of the
special factory tool, I'm using a tiny open end wrench, coming from
behind and working over the top of the sub-frame.  I would have
expected a nice little notch in the front of the sub-frame right under
the clamp just for removal purposes.  Is that too much to ask?

Sorry, as you were.

Scott Miller
GGC BMW CCA






------------------------------

Date: Mon, 2 Aug 2004 14:58:00 -0400 (EDT)
From: Mark Andy <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: compatible abs computers, e36 cars
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>

Howdy,

Does anyone know if an abs computer from a 325i w/traction control is the 
same as the one for a 325is w/o traction control?  I think the 325i is a 
'95 model, the 325is is a '93 model...

Mark


------------------------------

Date: Mon, 2 Aug 2004 13:22:07 -0700 (PDT)
From: Brian Ruiz <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: UUC Digest <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: right turn crunching update
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>

No one responded to my original post, but maybe some
more information will help to diagnose the problem.  I
still am not positive of the source of the noise;
however I did notice this weekend that it does NOT
make the crunching noise when I make a right turn in
neutral.  This would seem to eliminate the wheel
bearing or axle as a possible source, however I still
don't know why a right turn in gear would cause
crunching, while a right turn in neutral would not. 
Does the limited slip come into play on any turn, or
just extreme turns?  If I stop before making a right
turn, there is no noise, but if it's a right turn on a
green light, then the noise appears.

TIA,
Brian

--- Brian Ruiz <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:

> Hi All,
> 
> For a reminder, I was recently asking about ride
> height on my E36, and had posted pictures.  A list
> member noticed the difference in wheels on the rear
> of
> my car, and mentioned possible differential problems
> as a result of it.  I was using the spare wheel on
> the
> left (driver's) side, and the original wheel on the
> passenger side.  Because I have wider tires on the
> other (stock) wheels, it was mentioned that there is
> a
> difference in sidewall height and thus total wheel
> height between the spare and the stock wheel.  I was
> driving for a week or two like that before I was
> told
> that this would cause problems.
> 
> I swapped the front wheel to the rear and put the
> spare on the front, but now I am getting crunching
> noises from the rear end when I make right turns. 
> Undoubtedly this is from driving for those two weeks
> like that, but I am wondering if it makes sense that
> it happens ONLY when I am making right turns.  It is
> a
> lot worse when I make a right turn over or onto a
> bumpy segment of road (like a gutter or ragged
> asphalt).  I assume this is so because the limited
> slip gets engaged easier due to the lack of
> traction,
> but I am not positive.  In any case, does this make
> sense to anyone else?
> 
> TIA,
> Brian
> 93 325i
> 
> 
>       
>               
> __________________________________
> Do you Yahoo!?
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> 



                
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