The BMW UUC Digest 
Volume 2 : Issue 238 : "text" Format

Messages in this Issue:
  new tie rods + anti-seize = good?
  Re: new tie rods + anti-seize = good?
  Re: [e36] it's hard to open my door?!?!
  E36 M50 A/C part needed...
  E36 sideskirts
  Re: E36? - it's hard to open my door?!?!
  PPI, Bel Air MD
  another pot shot at i-drive
  Bay Area BMW Salesman
  Re: Bay Area BMW Salesman
  Re: Bay Area BMW Salesman
  <misc> looking for a body shop in JAX

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Date: Thu, 17 Jun 2004 02:39:34 -0700
From: Herman Chan <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: new tie rods + anti-seize = good?
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>

Folks:

I'm getting ready to install a new set of tie rods to complete my 
front end rebuild.

I think I've seen it mentioned here that it would be a good idea to 
apply some anti-seize to the threads to keep them from freezing up in 
the future, though it may not be required in these sunny climes.

Should it be applied to the entire length of the threads, or only the 
portion that's hidden in the tie rod end so as to not affect the 
adjustment locknut?

I'll try to match the lengths of the new and old rods as closely as I 
can, but I still have to drive 15 miles or so to reach the alignment 
shop afterward.

Are there any good home methods to check the alignment so that it's 
not too far out of whack?

TIA,
Herman

PS- are the digest numbers ever going to return?  It's much more 
helpful to see the digest number rather than the number of messages 
in the subject heading.

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Date: Thu, 17 Jun 2004 08:29:39 -0400
From: "Gary Derian" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: new tie rods + anti-seize = good?
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>

Entire length.  Make a trammel rod.  Get a 1x3 piece of wood and nail/screw
triangles to the ends, sort of like this: |\_______/|.  Then with a tape
measure, the toe can be easily measured to a convenient tread rib in the
tire.  Spin the tire first to be sure its true but they generally are.

This is every bit as accurate as an alignment shop.  And you can tune your
handling at home.

Don't forget the center tie rod, that one wears out faster than the side tie
rods, especially the joint at the pitman arm (unless you have rack and
pinion).

Gary Derian



> Folks:
>
> I'm getting ready to install a new set of tie rods to complete my
> front end rebuild.
>
> I think I've seen it mentioned here that it would be a good idea to
> apply some anti-seize to the threads to keep them from freezing up in
> the future, though it may not be required in these sunny climes.
>
> Should it be applied to the entire length of the threads, or only the
> portion that's hidden in the tie rod end so as to not affect the
> adjustment locknut?
>
> I'll try to match the lengths of the new and old rods as closely as I
> can, but I still have to drive 15 miles or so to reach the alignment
> shop afterward.
>
> Are there any good home methods to check the alignment so that it's
> not too far out of whack?
>
> TIA,
> Herman
>
> PS- are the digest numbers ever going to return?  It's much more
> helpful to see the digest number rather than the number of messages
> in the subject heading.
> Search the ARCHIVES:http://www.mail-archive.com/[EMAIL PROTECTED]


------------------------------

Date: Thu, 17 Jun 2004 07:16:55 -0500
From: Neil Maller <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: [e36] it's hard to open my door?!?!
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>

on 6/17/04 2:20 AM, "Batt, Jeff (MED)" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:

> I have a 1995 M3 (2 door e36) that recently started to have doors that
> are hard to open.  The driver's side is far worse than the passenger,
> but the passenger still seems a little worse than I remember it being.
> Whether you are inside or outside of the car, you have to open the door
> handle latch farther and harder than you ever had to before to get the
> door to open.  It always works, but I feel like I'm not going to be able
> to get into or out of the car some times.

A number of years ago BMW had a Service Action on door handles that became
hard to operate. I don't know what the remedy was, but your dealer should be
able to  look it up.

Otherwise, does the problem still happen if you roll the windows all the way
down? If so the window may be applying pressure to the door and making the
latch bind. Bentley shows the window adjustment procedure.

Neil
96 M3


------------------------------

Date: Thu, 17 Jun 2004 10:00:52 -0400
From: "[EMAIL PROTECTED]" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: E36 M50 A/C part needed...
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>

Racers and soon-to-be-racers,

Anyone have a box of parts that came off your inline 6?  I'm looking for
the bit of bracketry (ETK calls it a 'base plate'), triangular in shape,
that holds the pulley and tensioner for the A/C belt.  
P/N is 11 28 1 726 776
If you have a tensioner and pulley in good working order (i.e. the whole
little assembly), that wouldn't hurt my feelings either.
TIA.

-Jay

1993 325is with minor A/C woes...




------------------------------

Date: Thu, 17 Jun 2004 13:14:22 -0700 (PDT)
From: Brian Ruiz <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: E36 sideskirts
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>

Hi all,
  In my ponderings, I have wondered how the sideskirts
on an E36 fit.  They almost seem to be a complete part
of the frame...is this true?  On close inspection, it
seems to all be a single piece connected to the rear
fender.  I have some dents and dings on mine from
curbs and such; I was wondering how it would be
repaired, and if it was worth it to get it repaired,
since if the skirts are too integrated into other body
parts, it would be major $$$ just to get it repaired.

Thoughts and knowledge welcome.  Brett, I assume you
might know a lot about this, with your race prep shop
and all. ;)

TIA,
Brian


                
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Date: Thu, 17 Jun 2004 16:33:20 -0400
From: "JUSTIN GERRY" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Cc: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: Re: E36? - it's hard to open my door?!?!
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>

Have you oiled the actual door lock/opening mechanism on the door
itself? If it is not well lubed the doors will be very tough to open,
you risk breaking parts.

Try oiling them, it may take you about 2 minutes to cure the problem.

-Justin

--
'76 02
'97 m3
bmw cca
checkout http://www.bmw2002.net

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 17 Jun 2004 17:28:06 -0400
From: Dave Meyer <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: PPI, Bel Air MD
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>

Any suggestions for a BMW dealer or (preferably) an independent
Pre-Purchase Inspection near Bel Air, MD?  Thanks in advance.

Dave Meyer
99 328is
Stafford VA

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------------------------------

Date: Thu, 17 Jun 2004 18:06:45 -0700
From: John Bolhuis <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: another pot shot at i-drive
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>

I was picking up some plastic expandable rivets today at the local 
dealer, and I noticed they had an i-drive demonstrator set up in a 
little kiosk.  But the computer that was running it continually 
blue-screens and reboots.

ha!

-- 
 "It is an honor to be Cookie Monster."
   -Sesame Street spokeswoman Audrey Shapiro 

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 17 Jun 2004 18:13:02 -0700
From: "Kevin Kelly" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: "BMW BMW BMW BMW" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Bay Area BMW Salesman
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>

A guy on the Bay Area Land Rover list just wrote:

"We went to Stevens Creek BMW, Mountain View BMW and Peter Pan BMW.  All
three salesmen were incredibly obnoxious.

Stevens Creek - Didn't have the time of day for someone interested in a
"entry level" new 325i

Peter Pan - Couldn't offer anything but the owner's daughter's 330i.
It had an oil leak, dead battery and bottomed out on something that
tore up the undercoating.  He also lied about being the fleet manager.

Mountian View - Not interested in pushing anything but the stuff he had
in stock.  All the options we wanted "were options nobody wants, no
dealer orders cars like that"  It was like I was an idiot for even
asking.

Anybody know a good BMW salesman?"

E-mail me if anyone can recommend a good salesman for the Land Rover list
guy to talk to.

Kevin Kelly
BMW CCA 50039


------------------------------

Date: Thu, 17 Jun 2004 19:08:54 -0700
From: John Bolhuis <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: Re: Bay Area BMW Salesman
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>

On Thu, Jun 17, 2004 at 06:13:02PM -0700, Kevin Kelly wrote:
<snip>
> Anybody know a good BMW salesman?"

*sigh*  Until BMW stops having record-setting quarters, you're probably 
going to run into this.  My own practical advice is to buy used where 
someone like ol' Gil is more hungry for a sale.
 "Go ahead, drool all you want, you can't hurt that finish.  Now 
rainwater, that will strip it right off, so ... aw, I shouldn't have 
said that ... aw, Gil..."

-- 
 "It is an honor to be Cookie Monster."
   -Sesame Street spokeswoman Audrey Shapiro 

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 17 Jun 2004 20:10:50 -0700
From: JKerouac <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: Kevin Kelly <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Cc: BMW BMW BMW BMW <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: Bay Area BMW Salesman
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>

"Anybody know a good oxymoron?"
Barry


Kevin Kelly wrote:

>A guy on the Bay Area Land Rover list just wrote:
>
>"We went to Stevens Creek BMW, Mountain View BMW and Peter Pan BMW.  All
>three salesmen were incredibly obnoxious.
>
>
>
>Anybody know a good BMW salesman?"
>
>E-mail me if anyone can recommend a good salesman for the Land Rover list
>guy to talk to.
>
>Kevin Kelly
>BMW CCA 50039
>  
>

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 17 Jun 2004 21:23:04 -0500 (CDT)
From: "Kevin Jay (Mr.Fabulous)" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: <misc> looking for a body shop in JAX
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>


Recent relo to Jacksonville has me wondering where I'd turn if (*gasp*) I got
into some sort of accident.  Any recomendations?

- Kevin Jay
  '96 328is, red/tan, 90K, usual H&R/Bilstein setup

(please reply to me directly, I barely get to the digests these days)



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