The BMW UUC Digest Volume 2 : Issue 508 : "text" Format Messages in this Issue: Re: power loss with old oil vs. new dyno results: Homemade larger HFM tube Re: Speed Warning Function E39 Stuck seat belt retractor what redline to use in the difff Re: CASE OF THE RELUCTANT RIM E30 SOS! Re: E30 SOS!
---------------------------------------------------------------------- Date: Fri, 21 Jan 2005 11:17:37 -0800 From: "Marco Romani" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: <[email protected]> Subject: Re: power loss with old oil vs. new Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> I find it pretty hard to believe .7 hp difference on a dyno could be contributed to anything, which I believe is your point. Anyone know what the typical precision of a dyno is? Marco -----Original Message----- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Behalf Of Jay G Sent: Friday, January 21, 2005 10:54 AM To: [email protected] Subject: Re: [UUC] power loss with old oil vs. new there was a local dyno day for some S2000s back in november...one guy had some older oil in his car and it made 204hp...the next week, he dynoed it again, but with fresh oil and it got him 203.3hp... so i dont think 6k mile oil will make any difference on the dyno...if it were me, i'd run it as is and change oil with the usual interval... ----- Original Message ----- From: "JKerouac" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> > Seems there's no clear performance advantage either way. Search the ARCHIVES:http://www.mail-archive.com/[email protected] __________________________________________________________________________ In memory of Michel Potheau - friend, enthusiast, founder of the BMW CCA. UUC Motorwerks - BMW Performance Fine-tuning and home of the Ultimate Short Shifter - accept no substitutes! 908-874-9092 . http://www.uucmotorwerks.com ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 21 Jan 2005 15:24:17 -0800 From: JKerouac <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: "[uucdigest]" <[email protected]>, bmw digest <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: dyno results: Homemade larger HFM tube Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> The dyno results today on my '97 //M3 were very encouraging. 230 hp/ 232 pounds torque. The engine is internally stock, 110k miles. Mods are Supersprint exhaust, factory airbox with restrictor cone removed, water pump fan removed, 24# injectors, and a 3 1/4" inner diameter home made tube for the stock HFM sensor. ECU has a Dinan stage 1 remap, hardly ideal for this setup. This is still with the original stock OBDII manifold. The improvement from the baseline of the same setup but with stock injectors and stock HFM tube, as was run in the past on the same dyno, is +13hp and +19 pounds of torque. Air fuel was in a safe and comfortable range. We adjusted the fuel pressure to get the best power with a safe mixture, and that's the final number I quoted. What I thought, and by SOP felt was the best fuel pressure for max power, was actually about 1/2 bar too high. It turns out stock fuel pressure is just about right, and unless you're dialing in a car for racing, the stock fuel pressure at 3.5 bar is fine. We reset the O2 sensor fault codes, and after some stretches of 70 to 80 mph on cruise control, the CE has stayed off. Yeay :-) . But in plugging into the diagnostic connector, on the laptop we could see that the % corrections based on O2 sensor readings was wider than normal. So a custom remap is not essential, though will improve both power and economy, as well as eliminating the chance of O2 sensor CE light codes, and should be included with the larger tube conversion. Either a CAI or Euro airbox will open up the top end hp number, but dyno runs of many other //M3 shows CAI setups that make more HP generate 10+ less pounds of torque. Ie. 238 hp and 222 torque. I think the fatter torque curve will make a faster street and autocross car than a peaky top end above 6000rpm with less meat below. My premise behind this retuning that a Euro HFM is not needed, just a larger air tube, and that the stock sensor can meter the airflow just fine, seems to be valid. So the larger HFM tube for the stock sensor project will be moving forward. Omward, Barry ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 21 Jan 2005 19:29:07 -0500 From: Ben Keyes <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: John Firestone <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>, [email protected] Subject: Re: Speed Warning Function Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> interesting discussion, but there's no answer from anyone in that thread. does the ECE reg exist ? if so, it would tend to explain the over-reading, yes ? my wife's Mini did it, my M coupe did it. both are pretty new models. the E28 M5 does it, tho not quite as much. my STi does it. strangely enough, the E34 M5 doesn't do it. tho the odo reads about 0.5% low as compared to GPS. will have to check the OBC against the GPS, haven't done that for some reason. it's clear that from the factory most BMW's read high and the party line from BMW seems to be that they did it that way on purpose & they aren't changing it. it doesn't really bother me much as the odo seems to read correct in all cases, but it is strange, esp when you have extreme computing power available to do whatever you want with all the displays in the car, so you should be able to make it as accurate as you want. Ben John wrote : > On Wed, 19 Jan 2005, Ben Keyes wrote: > > > > another useful bit of information on the subject : > > > > http://www.caranddriver.com/article.asp?section_id=4&article_id=1906&page_number=1 > > It is a fun and useful article but its most popularly repeated point - > you can blame a European regulation for over-reading speedometers - is > both misleading and wrong. > > You can find some data, analysis, and discussion at: > > http://www.bimmerfest.com/forums/showthread.php?p=823712#post823712 > > I apologize in advance for any uncomfortable doubts this may so, and > if bits of my analysis come across as a little punchy. I have read the > above false claim so often, I have to force myself not to believe it. > > -John ------------------------------ Date: Sat, 22 Jan 2005 01:02:18 -0500 From: "Dennis Liu" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: "'BMW List'" <[email protected]> Subject: E39 Stuck seat belt retractor Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> A year and a half ago, I wrote: Argh. A rear seat belt retractor on the wife's 2000 E-39 wagon is stuck. I pulled the belt all the way out to install a child seat, but now it won't retract at all. Doh. 1. What's the fix, aside from disassemblying the darn thing? 2. How do I prevent it from happening again? Since the car was under warranty then, back to the dealer it went. Dealer replaced the entire assembly. Now the OTHER SIDE is stuck. Either these parts are defective, or my technique is entirely wrong. Any ideas/suggestion on how to fix it? TIA, --Dennis ------------------------------ Date: Sat, 22 Jan 2005 01:31:07 -0600 From: "Paul Garnier" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: <[email protected]> Subject: what redline to use in the difff Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> -----Original Message----- From: KMS- Brett Anderson [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Friday, January 21, 2005 2:32 PM To: Paul Garnier Subject: RE: what redline to use in the difff. Redline 75W90. NOT 75W90NS. Brett Anderson KMS > -----Original Message----- > From: Paul Garnier [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] > Sent: Friday, January 21, 2005 2:49 PM > To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] > Subject: what redline to use in the difff. > > > Brett, (or other BMW expert reading this) > > What redline oil shall I put in the 96 328i with LSD today? What about > the 95 M3 also with LSD? Waiting for you answer with baited breath as > I have my mechanic waiting for > me to swing by with the fluid and car. > > Thanks a ton, sry for the short lead normally I would have posted to > the UUC digest. I'll fwd the results to them if U don't. > > Paul A. Garnier ------------------------------ Date: Sat, 22 Jan 2005 13:38:32 -0500 From: Steve Lilley <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: BMW UUC Digest <[email protected]> Subject: Re: CASE OF THE RELUCTANT RIM Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> I'm way behind on e-mail, and just catching up on this thread. Something that I always wondered: back in the days before I was a BMW owner (pre-enlightenment ;-), I used to own several Hondas and Acuras (this was back in the 80's and early 90's). I never experienced a problem with the wheels seizing on the hub with those cars, ever. Were those alloy wheels or hubs made from a different material than that used by BMW? Regards, Steve > yep. a very light coat of anti seize is all it takes. Will probably last > the life of the car too. > > That and a 5lb short sledge in the trunk. > > Why they don't put the anti-seize on at the factory amazes me. ------------------------------ Date: Sat, 22 Jan 2005 14:09:46 -0500 (EST) From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: [email protected] (bmw list) Subject: E30 SOS! Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> So my otherwise reliable E30 has just left me stranded (at home, yea!). Symptoms are as follows: Car turns over and starts fine, and then immediately dies. Trying to help it with the gas (assuming an idle problem) I can get it up to 2-3k, but it just dies. Can't hold it there. Restarts are consistent (catches every time) but it always dies. Last night it threw an O2 sensor error and didn't idle well on a warm engine, but once cool, it started and drove fine, no further codes. This morning, nothing. Last night when it was acting up it would try to die when you launched after a light, but feathering the clutch would get you past it. Highway was no problem. Based on gut feeling, past (4 months ago) report of black/grey smoke on launch, the bogging down when I got on the gas, the large quantities of condensation (veritable fog bank) at the tail pipe, and a cold engine being ok, but a warm one having problems I was guessing a too rich mix. I was thinking temperature sensor, but the books point to fuel pressure regulator (which was suggested for the black smoke issue before). Ideas? I am going to go try to read the temperature sensor just to rule it out/in. -- Joe -- Joseph M. Krzeszewski Network Operations [EMAIL PROTECTED] Jack of All Trades, Master of None... Yet ------------------------------ Date: Sat, 22 Jan 2005 14:25:45 -0500 (EST) From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Cc: [email protected] (bmw list) Subject: Re: E30 SOS! Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> >From [EMAIL PROTECTED] > >So my otherwise reliable E30 has just left me stranded (at home, yea!). > >Symptoms are as follows: > >Car turns over and starts fine, and then immediately dies. >Trying to help it with the gas (assuming an idle problem) I can get it up to >2-3k, but it just dies. Can't hold it there. > >Restarts are consistent (catches every time) but it always dies. > >Last night it threw an O2 sensor error and didn't idle well on a warm >engine, but once cool, it started and drove fine, no further codes. This >morning, nothing. > >Last night when it was acting up it would try to die when you launched after >a light, but feathering the clutch would get you past it. Highway was no >problem. > >Based on gut feeling, past (4 months ago) report of black/grey smoke on >launch, the bogging down when I got on the gas, the large quantities of >condensation (veritable fog bank) at the tail pipe, and a cold engine being >ok, but a warm one having problems I was guessing a too rich mix. > >I was thinking temperature sensor, but the books point to fuel pressure >regulator (which was suggested for the black smoke issue before). > >Ideas? I am going to go try to read the temperature sensor just to rule it >out/in. > Forgot to say that the car is an '87 325i. Temperature sensor (blue with two contacts) reads 8k at 10F which seems right. The other sensor (metal, one contact) reads about 2k to ground. What is that sensor? Assuming a over rich mix (semi confirmed by the exhaust smell after a few failed attempts) I opened the oil fill and tried again. It fought a little harder before dieing the same way. -- Joe -- Joseph M. Krzeszewski Network Operations [EMAIL PROTECTED] Jack of All Trades, Master of None... Yet ------------------------------ End of [bmwuucdigest] digest(8 messages) **********
