The BMW UUC Digest Volume 2 : Issue 627 : "text" Format Messages in this Issue: E36 power locks not locking remotely Re: E36 power locks not locking remotely E36 oxygen sensor installation Re: cutting coils/ was: OFFER: E30 325e springs Re: cutting coils/ was: OFFER: E30 325e springs Re: cutting coils/ was: OFFER: E30 325e springs Re: cutting coils/ was: OFFER: E30 325e springs Re: cutting coils/ was: OFFER: E30 325e springs Re: cutting coils/ was: OFFER: E30 325e springs bimmerworld cooling plates Re: Tire purchase Re: Tire purchase E28 good project or not
---------------------------------------------------------------------- Date: Tue, 19 Apr 2005 17:20:23 -0500 From: "Roy T. Collins" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: <[email protected]> Subject: E36 power locks not locking remotely Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> I have a bizarre problem on my E36. The doors will not lock when I use the remote for keyless entry. All the locks are functioning and if I am in the car and lock the drivers door then all the locks lock. Likewise if I use the key in the drivers door all the locks lock. If the doors are locked and I click the remote then all the doors will unlock as normal and the car will chirp twice and disable the alarm. If I hit the button with the doors unlocked I get a single chirp and the alarm is turned on but the doors do not actually lock. This problem started to happen last year at the end of the summer. When it got cold out everything started working again. Now that it is getting warm again the doors will not lock when I click the button on the remote. Anyone have any suggestions on where to start? It seems as though everything is fine and that it is just not sending a signal to the door locks. Is there a way to change the functionality on the system? I have not changed anything, at least not that I am aware of, but now that it is getting warm the door locks seem to stop locking again. Any advice would be appreciated. Thanks Roy Collins 1996 328i - crazy locks that only unlock remotely ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 19 Apr 2005 22:37:53 -0700 From: allister brown <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: "Roy T. Collins" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Cc: "<[email protected]>" <[email protected]> Subject: Re: E36 power locks not locking remotely Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> my 2 cents.... new remote battery? a On Apr 19, 2005, at 3:20 PM, Roy T. Collins wrote: > I have a bizarre problem on my E36. The doors will not lock when I use > the remote for keyless entry. All the locks are functioning and if I am > in the car and lock the drivers door then all the locks lock. Likewise > if I use the key in the drivers door all the locks lock. If the doors > are locked and I click the remote then all the doors will unlock as > normal and the car will chirp twice and disable the alarm. If I hit > the > button with the doors unlocked I get a single chirp and the alarm is > turned on but the doors do not actually lock. This problem started to > happen last year at the end of the summer. When it got cold out > everything started working again. Now that it is getting warm again > the > doors will not lock when I click the button on the remote. Anyone have > any suggestions on where to start? It seems as though everything is > fine and that it is just not sending a signal to the door locks. Is > there a way to change the functionality on the system? I have not > changed anything, at least not that I am aware of, but now that it is > getting warm the door locks seem to stop locking again. Any advice > would be appreciated. Thanks > > Roy Collins > > 1996 328i - crazy locks that only unlock remotely > > Search the > ARCHIVES:http://www.mail-archive.com/[email protected] > > > _______________________________________________________________________ > ___ > In memory of Michel Potheau - friend, enthusiast, founder of the BMW > CCA. > > UUC Motorwerks - BMW Performance Fine-tuning and home of the Ultimate > Short Shifter - accept no substitutes! > 908-874-9092 . http://www.uucmotorwerks.com > > % Oo=0=oO' ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 19 Apr 2005 17:05:25 -0700 From: "Reed Nicholson" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: <[email protected]>, "'E36M3'" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: E36 oxygen sensor installation Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Has anyone installed the precat oxygen sensors in an E36 M3, 3.2? Any tips on where to access them from, or any other tricks? Or if you could point me toward the info, that would be great. Thanks, Reed/Seattle ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 19 Apr 2005 21:26:26 -0400 From: Ed MacVaugh <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: [email protected], [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: Re: cutting coils/ was: OFFER: E30 325e springs Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> I don't understand this statement. The top spring pad/plate rotates with the strut shaft. As a consequence, the end of the top coil can be oriented in any location and any fraction of a turn. Ed Gary Derian wrote: > Also BMW front springs have a specific number of coils to fit properly > so one can only cut springs in whole coil increments. ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 19 Apr 2005 22:10:22 -0400 From: "Gary Derian" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: "Ed MacVaugh" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>, <[email protected]> Subject: Re: cutting coils/ was: OFFER: E30 325e springs Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> The spring and strut can be assembled no matter where the coils end but the spring is not concentric with the strut, it is offset. The top plate will be parallel with the bottom plate (welded to the tube) at only a specific rotation. If the spring is cut at other than a whole coil, the resultant assembly will bow the spring and place an incorrect side load on the strut. I was severely disappointed with my Dinan E34 springs due to their being off by 1/2 coil. Gary Derian >I don't understand this statement. The top spring pad/plate rotates with >the strut shaft. As a consequence, the end of the top coil can be oriented >in any location and any fraction of a turn. > > Ed > > Gary Derian wrote: > >> Also BMW front springs have a specific number of coils to fit properly so >> one can only cut springs in whole coil increments. > > Search the ARCHIVES:http://www.mail-archive.com/[email protected] > > > __________________________________________________________________________ > In memory of Michel Potheau - friend, enthusiast, founder of the BMW CCA. > > UUC Motorwerks - BMW Performance Fine-tuning and home of the Ultimate > Short Shifter - accept no substitutes! > 908-874-9092 . http://www.uucmotorwerks.com > ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 20 Apr 2005 10:43:43 -0400 From: "chet.dawes" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: <[email protected]> Subject: Re: cutting coils/ was: OFFER: E30 325e springs Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Gary, "Also BMW front springs have a specific number of coils to fit properly so one can only cut springs in whole coil increments." Is this really true? As I recall, the upper perch (at least on my e36 applications) is allowed to rotate relative to the strut, i.e. lower perch. I'm not familiar enough with the e30 however, so throw out my comments if they differ. On my e36, the upper perch is not keyed, nor is it forced to align with the strut mount in any way. It should be free to rotate save for clamping loads. If that's true, you should be able to cut any fraction of a coil from the spring and maintain a proper 'seat' on the perch. I have noticed that the top and bottom of the spring do "line up", but I figured that was a manufacturing thing as to not have a bunch of waste when making the springs. Rear springs are a whole different story, those small diameter coils and tapered wire at the ends help create a linear rate throughout the spring's operating range. Yet it allows a much larger operating range (before coil bind) than a traditional linear race-type spring. I've measured OE rear spring rates on two different e36's and indeed the rate is VERY linear throughout the operating range despite what the visual appearance suggests from the bee hive design. Fronts are linear too, but it is far more obvious. Cheers, Chet Dawes -----Original Message----- Date: Tue, 19 Apr 2005 10:01:24 -0400 From: "Gary Derian" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: "JKerouac" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Cc: <[email protected]> Subject: Re: cutting coils/ was: OFFER: E30 325e springs Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Car springs are wound hot, to there is no big deal in heating them again. One wants to take care to match a pair, and the end coils need to be slightly closed to fit properly in the spring seats. Also BMW front springs have a specific number of coils to fit properly so one can only cut springs in whole coil increments. Gary Derian **************************************************************************************** Note: The information contained in this message may be privileged and confidential and thus protected from disclosure. If the reader of this message is not the intended recipient, or an employee or agent responsible for delivering this message to the intended recipient, you are hereby notified that any dissemination, distribution or copying of this communication is strictly prohibited. If you have received this communication in error, please notify us immediately by replying to the message and deleting it from your computer. Thank you. **************************************************************************************** ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 20 Apr 2005 11:13:21 -0400 From: "chet.dawes" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: "Gary Derian" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>, <[email protected]> Subject: Re: cutting coils/ was: OFFER: E30 325e springs Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Ahhh, I see! That makes sense. Thanks for the explanation. As a side note: The rear springs (albeit different mount style and spring type) go through this all the time. As the trailing arm moves in an arc, the upper/lower seats are not parallel except in one small point in motion. So I wonder which is better, non-parallel spring/damper motion or springs not seated properly in their perch? Not that it matters too much for me......with adj. coil-over struts and linear 'race' springs I can simply adjust the perch height rather than cutting/heating coils. :) Chet -----Original Message----- From: Gary Derian [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Wednesday, April 20, 2005 11:01 AM To: Dawes, Chet ; [email protected] Subject: Re: [UUC] cutting coils/ was: OFFER: E30 325e springs The springs and seat can be assembled in any angular rotation to fit the coils, but the spring centerline is not parallel to the strut centerline. The top seat is only parallel to the bottom seat in one particular angular orientation. It can be assembled and used, but the springs will be bowed in any but the proper orientation. Gary Derian **************************************************************************************** Note: The information contained in this message may be privileged and confidential and thus protected from disclosure. If the reader of this message is not the intended recipient, or an employee or agent responsible for delivering this message to the intended recipient, you are hereby notified that any dissemination, distribution or copying of this communication is strictly prohibited. If you have received this communication in error, please notify us immediately by replying to the message and deleting it from your computer. Thank you. **************************************************************************************** ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 20 Apr 2005 11:01:14 -0400 From: "Gary Derian" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: "chet.dawes" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>, <[email protected]> Subject: Re: cutting coils/ was: OFFER: E30 325e springs Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> The springs and seat can be assembled in any angular rotation to fit the coils, but the spring centerline is not parallel to the strut centerline. The top seat is only parallel to the bottom seat in one particular angular orientation. It can be assembled and used, but the springs will be bowed in any but the proper orientation. Gary Derian > > Gary, > > "Also BMW front springs have a specific number of coils to fit properly > so one can only cut springs in whole coil increments." > > Is this really true? As I recall, the upper perch (at least on my e36 > applications) is allowed to rotate relative to the strut, i.e. lower > perch. I'm not familiar enough with the e30 however, so throw out my > comments if they differ. > On my e36, the upper perch is not keyed, nor is it forced to align with > the strut mount in any way. It should be free to rotate save for > clamping loads. > If that's true, you should be able to cut any fraction of a coil from > the spring and maintain a proper 'seat' on the perch. > I have noticed that the top and bottom of the spring do "line up", but I > figured that was a manufacturing thing as to not have a bunch of waste > when making the springs. > > Rear springs are a whole different story, those small diameter coils and > tapered wire at the ends help create a linear rate throughout the > spring's operating range. Yet it allows a much larger operating range > (before coil bind) than a traditional linear race-type spring. > I've measured OE rear spring rates on two different e36's and indeed the > rate is VERY linear throughout the operating range despite what the > visual appearance suggests from the bee hive design. Fronts are linear > too, but it is far more obvious. > > Cheers, > Chet Dawes ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 20 Apr 2005 11:25:41 -0400 From: "Gary Derian" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: "chet.dawes" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>, <[email protected]> Subject: Re: cutting coils/ was: OFFER: E30 325e springs Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> The front springs are offset specifically to apply a side load to the struts to counteract the side load applied by the weight of the front. Stated another way, the spring centerline is concurrent with the steering axis. The lower part of the strut is inboard of the steering axis to clear the tire. Bowing the spring changes the counteracting side load on the strut (straight line driving) and increases friction and wear. This is not the end of the world, but it isn't right, either. Note that coil-overs are centered over the strut and also do not supply the correct counteracting side load. Cornering loads are much higher and in the opposite direction from straight line loads, so this is not an issue in racing. Rear springs bow in normal use on BMWs and many other cars but have no effect on strut side loads. Gary Derian > > Ahhh, I see! That makes sense. Thanks for the explanation. > > As a side note: > The rear springs (albeit different mount style and spring type) go > through this all the time. As the trailing arm moves in an arc, the > upper/lower seats are not parallel except in one small point in motion. > So I wonder which is better, non-parallel spring/damper motion or > springs not seated properly in their perch? > > Not that it matters too much for me......with adj. coil-over struts and > linear 'race' springs I can simply adjust the perch height rather than > cutting/heating coils. :) > > Chet > > -----Original Message----- > From: Gary Derian [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] > Sent: Wednesday, April 20, 2005 11:01 AM > To: Dawes, Chet ; [email protected] > Subject: Re: [UUC] cutting coils/ was: OFFER: E30 325e springs > > The springs and seat can be assembled in any angular rotation to fit the > > coils, but the spring centerline is not parallel to the strut > centerline. > The top seat is only parallel to the bottom seat in one particular > angular > orientation. > > It can be assembled and used, but the springs will be bowed in any but > the > proper orientation. > > Gary Derian > > **************************************************************************************** > > Note: The information contained in this message may be privileged and > confidential and thus protected from disclosure. If the reader of this > message is not the intended recipient, or an employee or agent responsible > for delivering this message to the intended recipient, you are hereby > notified that any dissemination, distribution or copying of this > communication is strictly prohibited. If you have received this > communication in error, please notify us immediately by replying to the > message and deleting it from your computer. Thank you. > > **************************************************************************************** > > Search the ARCHIVES:http://www.mail-archive.com/[email protected] > > > __________________________________________________________________________ > In memory of Michel Potheau - friend, enthusiast, founder of the BMW CCA. > > UUC Motorwerks - BMW Performance Fine-tuning and home of the Ultimate > Short Shifter - accept no substitutes! > 908-874-9092 . http://www.uucmotorwerks.com ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 19 Apr 2005 20:34:31 -0500 From: Clarence <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: [email protected] Subject: bimmerworld cooling plates Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> It's time to get ready for another track season and I'm thinking of getting Bimmerworld's brake cooling kit. I currently run Hawk Blues and they're not quite up to the way I drive. Yes, a number of you may say I need to work on braking technique, but other than the two times I ran Hawk HT-10s I have never felt consistantly confident in the brakes. I run mostly at Blackhawk and some at Gingerman. I figure I should either go w/HT-10s or stay w/the Blues and cool them down. The advantage of cooling things is better rotor and bearing life. The disadvantage is the initial cost of the backing plate. I'm not sure how many more seasons an '87 w/over 240K miles will last. Would appreciate anybody's thoughts on this. Clarence ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 20 Apr 2005 00:42:37 -0400 From: "m3 drvr" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: [email protected] Cc: [EMAIL PROTECTED], [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: Re: Tire purchase Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Thanks Rich. Clyde >From: "Rich Dorffer" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> >Reply-To: [email protected] >To: <[email protected]> >CC: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>, "Marc Plante" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> >Subject: Re: [UUC] Tire purchase >Date: Fri, 15 Apr 2005 21:56:56 -0400 > >The T1R are very expensive AFAIK, a fair bit more than T1-S which aren't >particularly cheap either. Also, they aren't currently available in the US >(who knows when they will be, no info from Toyo). > >One place that carries the T1R (1010tires.com) has the 235/40/17 for $230 >each (compared to $170 for T1-S) and 245/40/17 for $235 (compared to $180 >for T1-S). > >I think I would do the Michelin Pilot Sport 2 (PS2) over the T1-S and the >SO-3. > >Later, > >Rich > >95 M3 - shod with Michelin PS2 (considered the T1-S and the S03 as well as >all the others) > > > -----Original Message----- > > From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] > > [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Behalf Of Gerry > > Sent: Friday, April 15, 2005 5:15 PM > > To: Marc Plante; [email protected] > > Subject: Re: [UUC] Tire purchase > > > > > > The Toyo T1-S is giving way to the T1-R. The T1-R is suppose to > > have beter wet and dry characteristics and much better wear. The > > tire edges ie.(X_____X) have a moderately harder compound to > > reduce edge wear caused by camber related problems and/or > > enthusiastic driving opportunities. > > Gerry > >Search the ARCHIVES:http://www.mail-archive.com/[email protected] > > >__________________________________________________________________________ >In memory of Michel Potheau - friend, enthusiast, founder of the BMW CCA. > >UUC Motorwerks - BMW Performance Fine-tuning and home of the Ultimate >Short Shifter - accept no substitutes! >908-874-9092 . http://www.uucmotorwerks.com ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 20 Apr 2005 00:43:49 -0400 From: "m3 drvr" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: [email protected] Subject: Re: Tire purchase Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Thanks Andre. I am not having much luck so I wil stick with the popular choices for now. Clyde >From: Andre Yew <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> >Reply-To: [email protected] >To: [email protected] >Subject: Re: [UUC] Tire purchase >Date: Fri, 15 Apr 2005 20:07:11 -0700 (PDT) > >On Fri, 15 Apr 2005, m3 drvr wrote: > > I think the Tire rack is a excellent site for researching > > tires but even they don't sell Toyo's and I wonder why? > >According to a source high up in the Toyo corporate hierarchy, they don't >want Tire Rack setting their selling price for them. You have to shop >around, but there are places that will sell Toyos at fairly substantial >discounts. > >--Andre > >Search the ARCHIVES:http://www.mail-archive.com/[email protected] > > >__________________________________________________________________________ >In memory of Michel Potheau - friend, enthusiast, founder of the BMW CCA. > >UUC Motorwerks - BMW Performance Fine-tuning and home of the Ultimate >Short Shifter - accept no substitutes! >908-874-9092 . http://www.uucmotorwerks.com ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 20 Apr 2005 10:59:13 -0500 From: "Roy T. Collins" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: <[email protected]> Subject: E28 good project or not Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> I have an old E28 528e that is starting to feel its age. I am considering letting the car go but I have had so many fun times in it... driving, I might add. It was my first BMW afterall. It is bone stock and I was wondering if I should keep it around. I have been looking to get a car to play around with that is both fun to drive and reasonably cheap to work on. I want to get a car to work on that will eventually be something fun to drive. I am concerned with this car that I will put a lot of money into it and end up with a great daily driver but not an exceptionaly fun car to drive. I already thought that it was underpowered espescially after getting the e36. I do love the smaller size of the car but the balance and responsiveness is what sold me on it. The 5 year old BMW, at the time, was much better than the Taurus when it was new. Anyway I guess the question I have is should I use this car to build on or go with a better model, maybe not even BMW? I could put a larger motor in. 2.8l M20 I think was the largest for the series, not really sure though. Just overhauling the motor will return a lot of power. Plus the car has an automatic right now and I would want to put a 5 speed in. I want a car that will take a lot of work so that I can get very intimate with it. At the same time I don't want to put a lot of custom work into the car since that adds to the cost quickly and makes repairs much more expensive. Anyone know what the availablity is for old E28's. Are there lots of them around in junk yards? I don't seem many listed on most car selling services. Im a just looking for any one with expirence to offer their opinion. Is it a good project car that ends up being fun to drive? Maybe do a track event or two in it. Reasonably inexpensive, you could buy another whole E28 for a couple grand so parts shouldn't be too bad, right? Any one have a good resource on people that modify old E28s. Any info would be great. Roy Collins 1996 328i still quick and lean 1984 528e tired ol' daily driver looking for new life ------------------------------ End of [bmwuucdigest] digest(13 messages) **********
