The BMW UUC Digest Volume 2 : Issue 537 : "text" Format Messages in this Issue: Re: <E36> RTAB removal w/ flange? Re: <E36> RTAB removal w/ flange? Re: <E36> RTAB removal w/ flange? Re: <E36> RTAB removal w/ flange? Re: <E36> RTAB removal w/ flange? Re: <E36> RTAB removal w/ flange? Erratic Temp Gauge dash lights for heater and headlight rheostat Re: dash lights for heater and headlight rheostat <E36> Stereo Wiring question - CD changer cable? Re: <E36> Stereo Wiring question - CD changer cable? [UUC] Re: <OT>Shipping heavy items
---------------------------------------------------------------------- Date: Sat, 12 Feb 2005 12:49:12 -0600 (CST) From: "Kevin Jay (Mr.Fabulous)" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: [email protected] Subject: Re: <E36> RTAB removal w/ flange? Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Well, sheeesh... that wasn't so difficult afterall. Accept the premise of tearing the bushings out (drill, drywall knife, hacksaw) instead of a nice extraction with a puller, & it's not so bad. About two-and-a-half hours for both sides. Now I badly need an alignment, but that was behind the reason for doing this in the first place. You guys (and ladies) *rock*, thanks to everybody who chimed in with a suggestion or words of encouragement. - k On Fri, 11 Feb 2005, Kevin Jay (Mr.Fabulous) wrote: > > Wow, awesome instructions... thanks for this, I just may give it a try (I have > never been a quitter, bailing on this is driving me crazy). Drilling out the > rubber and hacksawing the outer ring is *the* key step... this'll work > (especially in combination with the cheap rented puller I have). That, and > being able to drop the end of the arm below the car by simply disconnecting a > brake line bracket (I can't believe I didn't notice that myself, duh). > > Thanks *everybody* for your suggestions; I'll post results tomorrow evening. > > - k > > --- original message --- > > From: "Marco Romani" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> > Subject: Re: <E36> RTAB removal w/ flange? > > really don't give up. You must have some basic tools. A hack saw? A > drill? > > http://www.tunnellracing.com./techtips/trailbush.html > > Marco ------------------------------ Date: Sat, 12 Feb 2005 12:00:06 -0800 From: allister <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: "Kevin Jay (Mr.Fabulous)" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>, [email protected] Subject: Re: <E36> RTAB removal w/ flange? Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> good work...a nice thread to have followed from start to finish, inspiring in fact. Thanks for the mail! At 12:49 PM -0600 2/12/05, Kevin Jay (Mr.Fabulous) wrote: >Well, sheeesh... that wasn't so difficult afterall. Accept the premise of >tearing the bushings out (drill, drywall knife, hacksaw) instead of a nice >extraction with a puller, & it's not so bad. About two-and-a-half hours for >both sides. Now I badly need an alignment, but that was behind the reason for >doing this in the first place. > >You guys (and ladies) *rock*, thanks to everybody who chimed in with a >suggestion or words of encouragement. > >- k > >On Fri, 11 Feb 2005, Kevin Jay (Mr.Fabulous) wrote: >> >> Wow, awesome instructions... thanks for this, I just may give it a >>try (I have >> never been a quitter, bailing on this is driving me crazy). >>Drilling out the >> rubber and hacksawing the outer ring is *the* key step... this'll work >> (especially in combination with the cheap rented puller I have). That, and >> being able to drop the end of the arm below the car by simply >>disconnecting a >> brake line bracket (I can't believe I didn't notice that myself, duh). >> >> Thanks *everybody* for your suggestions; I'll post results tomorrow evening. >> >> - k >> >> --- original message --- >> >> From: "Marco Romani" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> >> Subject: Re: <E36> RTAB removal w/ flange? >> >> really don't give up. You must have some basic tools. A hack saw? A >> drill? >> >> http://www.tunnellracing.com./techtips/trailbush.html >> >> Marco > >Search the ARCHIVES:http://www.mail-archive.com/[email protected] > > >__________________________________________________________________________ >In memory of Michel Potheau - friend, enthusiast, founder of the BMW CCA. > >UUC Motorwerks - BMW Performance Fine-tuning and home of the Ultimate >Short Shifter - accept no substitutes! >908-874-9092 . http://www.uucmotorwerks.com -- ------------------------------ Date: Sat, 12 Feb 2005 15:39:22 -0600 From: Jamie Howton <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: "Kevin Jay (Mr.Fabulous)" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Cc: [email protected] Subject: Re: <E36> RTAB removal w/ flange? Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Hey, congratulations. What's much worse than getting the old ones out is installing shperical steel RTABs without any sort of tool, they are a press fit. I ended up making a press out of some threaded rod and really thick washers from the hardware store after swearing at the bushings for an entire day and getting nowhere. -- Jamie Howton 2002 330i 2000 M5 1995 M3 Hampshire, IL ------------------------------ Date: Sat, 12 Feb 2005 20:10:49 -0800 From: JKerouac <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: Jamie Howton <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Cc: "Kevin Jay (Mr.Fabulous)" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>, [email protected] Subject: Re: <E36> RTAB removal w/ flange? Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Another tip when installing bushings: Beside the hacksaw to facilitate removal, if you freeze the new bushings cols as you can get them, they will contract slightly and insert easier. Also, a light heating with a propane or mapp gas torch of the contact surface of the hole the bushing inserts into can help a bit too. Barry Jamie Howton wrote: >Hey, congratulations. What's much worse than getting the old ones out >is installing shperical steel RTABs without any sort of tool, they are >a press fit. I ended up making a press out of some threaded rod and >really thick washers from the hardware store after swearing at the >bushings for an entire day and getting nowhere. > > > -- The box said "Requires Windows 95, or better." So I bought a Macintosh. I live with fear, death, and evil...but I used to be able to turn it off and use a Mac. " Author Unknown Failure is not an option. It comes bundled with your Microsoft product. -- Ferenc Mantfeld ------------------------------ Date: Sat, 12 Feb 2005 22:26:37 -0600 (CST) From: "Kevin Jay (Mr.Fabulous)" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: [email protected] Subject: Re: <E36> RTAB removal w/ flange? Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Apologies for beating this to death, but I've been thinking about this today, and I'm a bit confused (maybe concerned). The replacement Powerflex product is split into halves. All urethane, with sort of a thick flange around the outer edge. These slide into the arm without much pressure at all (at least without the insert pressed in, but that goes in rather easily too). The console is a very tight fit over the insert, but the rest of it just slides right into place by hand. What exactly is going to hold all this together once I start driving around? Are there no lateral forces on this part of the suspension at all? Seems like the bushing halves could pretty easily slide out... at least a little bit. The only thing holding this together (side-to-side) is the console. I expected a one-piece bushing with a very tight press fit, not this (the box says "BMW E36 rear trailing arm front bush", so it would seem I have the right product?). - k On Sat, 12 Feb 2005, JKerouac wrote: > > Another tip when installing bushings: > Beside the hacksaw to facilitate removal, if you freeze the new bushings > cols as you can get them, they will contract slightly and insert > easier. Also, a light heating with a propane or mapp gas torch of the > contact surface of the hole the bushing inserts into can help a bit too. ------------------------------ Date: Sat, 12 Feb 2005 18:47:29 -0800 From: "Marco Romani" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: <[email protected]> Subject: Re: <E36> RTAB removal w/ flange? Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> 2.5 hours? Damn that's good. Took me 6 hours for one side the first time, but then I was blazing a path. Glad to hear it turned out ok in the end for you. Marco -----Original Message----- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Behalf Of Kevin Jay (Mr.Fabulous) Sent: Saturday, February 12, 2005 10:49 AM To: [email protected] Subject: Re: [UUC] <E36> RTAB removal w/ flange? Well, sheeesh... that wasn't so difficult afterall. Accept the premise of tearing the bushings out (drill, drywall knife, hacksaw) instead of a nice extraction with a puller, & it's not so bad. About two-and-a-half hours for both sides. Now I badly need an alignment, but that was behind the reason for doing this in the first place. You guys (and ladies) *rock*, thanks to everybody who chimed in with a suggestion or words of encouragement. - k On Fri, 11 Feb 2005, Kevin Jay (Mr.Fabulous) wrote: > > Wow, awesome instructions... thanks for this, I just may give it a try (I have > never been a quitter, bailing on this is driving me crazy). Drilling out the > rubber and hacksawing the outer ring is *the* key step... this'll work > (especially in combination with the cheap rented puller I have). That, and > being able to drop the end of the arm below the car by simply disconnecting a > brake line bracket (I can't believe I didn't notice that myself, duh). > > Thanks *everybody* for your suggestions; I'll post results tomorrow evening. > > - k > > --- original message --- > > From: "Marco Romani" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> > Subject: Re: <E36> RTAB removal w/ flange? > > really don't give up. You must have some basic tools. A hack saw? A > drill? > > http://www.tunnellracing.com./techtips/trailbush.html > > Marco Search the ARCHIVES:http://www.mail-archive.com/[email protected] __________________________________________________________________________ In memory of Michel Potheau - friend, enthusiast, founder of the BMW CCA. UUC Motorwerks - BMW Performance Fine-tuning and home of the Ultimate Short Shifter - accept no substitutes! 908-874-9092 . http://www.uucmotorwerks.com ------------------------------ Date: Sat, 12 Feb 2005 11:03:46 -0800 From: Harvey Chao <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: [email protected], [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: Erratic Temp Gauge Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> BTDT - twice On both an '83 E28 and a '87 E30. Somehow, the nuts holding the temperature gauge to the circuit board and or the nuts that secure the leads to the gauge work a little loose. Solution is pretty straight forward - pull the instrument cluster and then tighten the 8mm (?) nuts. Since this was the temp gauge I also did it to all other similar hardware. If the nut was still firmly tightened, I loosened it a bit and then re-tightened it. Don't overdo it, just "firm". It may be a case of minor corrosion that makes it a bad contact. Tightening or re-tightening breaks through the corrosion film and restores good contact. Reassemble and all should be well. Harvey The box said "Requires Windows 95, or better." So I bought a Macintosh. I live with fear, death, and evil...but I used to be able to turn it off and use a Mac. " Author Unknown Failure is not an option. It comes bundled with your Microsoft product. -- Ferenc Mantfeld ------------------------------ Date: Sat, 12 Feb 2005 12:03:44 -0800 From: allister <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: Harvey Chao <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>, [email protected], [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: dash lights for heater and headlight rheostat Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> hey there any commonly know problems w/the lights not working on that round temperature control indicator. Going to search FAQs but shortcuts appreciated! Cheers -- ------------------------------ Date: Sat, 12 Feb 2005 15:36:16 -0500 From: Brian Daley <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: [email protected] Subject: Re: dash lights for heater and headlight rheostat Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> On what year and model? It's also always a good idea to prefix your subject line with the model designation e.g. "<E36> Dash lights not working". It allows people to easily identify which posts are applicable to the models they own or otherwise have knowledge of, and improves the chances you'll get a useful response. And of course the answer may be different for differnt models. It's also nice to sign your name so we know what to call you. Most folks use a sig with their name and the BMWs (and sometimes non-BMW) vehicles they own. Without any specific details on what model you're asking about, and depending how old it is, if the other dash lights are working I'd guess a simple burned out bulb as the most likely reason for no lights. If you pull one out you should be able to find replacements at your local auto parts store. Brian '94 325ic allister wrote: > hey there > any commonly know problems w/the lights not working on that round > temperature control indicator. > Going to search FAQs but shortcuts appreciated! > Cheers ------------------------------ Date: Sat, 12 Feb 2005 15:45:33 -0500 From: Brian Daley <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: [email protected] Subject: <E36> Stereo Wiring question - CD changer cable? Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> I'm ready to install my new CD player in my 94 325ic with the 10-speaker radio, and I've acquired what I believe is the proper connector to mate with the stock wiring harness. When I pulled out the stock radio I discovered that in addition to the 16-pin connector I was expecting, there's also a thick (maybe 5mm) black cable with a rectangular 10-pin (2 rows of 5) connector. Is this the CD changer cable? If so, since I don't have a factory CD changer, I assume I can just ignore it. If not, what it it? Thanks, Brian '94 325ic ------------------------------ Date: Sat, 12 Feb 2005 21:17:55 -0600 From: "Peter Wheeler" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: "Brian Daley" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Cc: <[email protected]> Subject: Re: <E36> Stereo Wiring question - CD changer cable? Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> you assume correctly. ignore it the 16 pin is all you need. also, you may notice on your new head there is a blue with white wire and solid blue wire coming off the wiring harness. you want to connect the blue wire from the 16 pin mate for the factory harness to the amplifier turn on wire, whether that be the blue/white or solid blue wire. Otherwise, your stock amp will only turn on when you have the radio on (because the other wire will be the power antenna lead) Peter ----- Original Message ----- From: "Brian Daley" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: <[email protected]> Sent: Saturday, February 12, 2005 2:45 PM Subject: [UUC] <E36> Stereo Wiring question - CD changer cable? > I'm ready to install my new CD player in my 94 325ic with the 10-speaker > radio, and I've acquired what I believe is the proper connector to mate > with the stock wiring harness. When I pulled out the stock radio I > discovered that in addition to the 16-pin connector I was expecting, > there's also a thick (maybe 5mm) black cable with a rectangular 10-pin (2 > rows of 5) connector. Is this the CD changer cable? If so, since I don't > have a factory CD changer, I assume I can just ignore it. If not, what it > it? > > Thanks, > Brian > '94 325ic > > Search the ARCHIVES:http://www.mail-archive.com/[email protected] > > > __________________________________________________________________________ > In memory of Michel Potheau - friend, enthusiast, founder of the BMW CCA. > > UUC Motorwerks - BMW Performance Fine-tuning and home of the Ultimate > Short Shifter - accept no substitutes! > 908-874-9092 . http://www.uucmotorwerks.com > ------------------------------ Date: Sat, 12 Feb 2005 13:09:05 -0600 From: "Paul Garnier" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: "'Bmwuucdigest'" <[email protected]> Subject: [UUC] Message-ID: <!~!UENERkVCMDkAAQACAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAABgAAAAAAAAAt5ZDaGRzVESm4i9+EWhMouKAAAAQAAAAHxdzSgBdlk+RYzyvX/[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Can I retrofit e46 M3 brakes to my e36 M3? Can I retrofit an e46 M3 steering rack to my e36 M3? I feel more confident about the brakes than the rack but have my boubts about both? I have seen a tread on the euroM3 power digest about 750iL brakes being large diameter (>300mm) and fixed for pot calipers. If this is the case can we retrofit these to our e36's? Thanks, Paul A. Garnier (Cheap bastard on the prowl) Systems Integration FastNetworking 281-827-0725 cell/pgr ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 13 Feb 2005 00:56:00 -0800 (PST) From: wy <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: [email protected] Subject: Re: <OT>Shipping heavy items Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> I just shipped a Sparco seat weighing in at over 42 lbs from LA to Chicago for a tad under $30 using Fedex. It was about 15% cheaper than UPS. Drop it off at Kinkos. --- Marc Plante <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote: > I have a heavy, oversized series of items I'd like > to ship from VA to CT. > Specifically, 6 boxes of hardwood flooring, each of > which probably weighs 70 > lbs of so, guessing by the heft when I heave them > around the garage. boxes > are approximately 7' x 12" x 6" ea. > > I have a potential buyer in CT, and need to figure > out shipping logistics. > Figured people might have experience moving large > objects around the country > (i.e. engines). > > Who would I contact for something like this? > > Thanks > > Marc Plante > E36 M3/4 > Vienna, VA > > > > > Search the > ARCHIVES:http://www.mail-archive.com/[email protected] > > > __________________________________________________________________________ > In memory of Michel Potheau - friend, enthusiast, > founder of the BMW CCA. > > UUC Motorwerks - BMW Performance Fine-tuning and > home of the Ultimate > Short Shifter - accept no substitutes! > 908-874-9092 . http://www.uucmotorwerks.com > ===== Get Firefox! __________________________________ Do you Yahoo!? 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