The BMW UUC Digest 
Volume 2 : Issue 867 : "text" Format

Messages in this Issue:
  Re: <e39> reserve power to run the alarm?
  Re: <e39> reserve power to run the alarm?
  Re: C&D summer tire comparison
  Re: C&D summer tire comparison
  Re: C&D summer tire comparison
  Re: C&D summer tire comparison
  Re: C&D summer tire comparison
  Re: C&D summer tire comparison
  Re: <e36> Other end of car
  Re: <e36> Other end of car
  smiller fund
  Re: smiller fund
  <E30> Idle Issues and CEL

----------------------------------------------------------------------

Date: Wed, 16 Nov 2005 13:22:43 -0800
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: [email protected]
Subject: Re: <e39> reserve power to run the alarm?
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>


John,

I believe the current systems place a NiCad battery in the rear of the
siren. Don't know how much capacity it has for tooting it's horn. ; ^ ).
How is the first winter in Michigan? after Bay Area temps?

-Kevin



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------------------------------

Date: Wed, 16 Nov 2005 17:35:16 -0800
From: John Bolhuis <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: [email protected]
Subject: Re: <e39> reserve power to run the alarm?
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>

On Wed, Nov 16, 2005 at 01:22:43PM -0800, [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
> 
> John,
> 
> I believe the current systems place a NiCad battery in the rear of the
> siren. Don't know how much capacity it has for tooting it's horn. ; ^ ).
> How is the first winter in Michigan? after Bay Area temps?

ah, another little battery to die sometime...  great.  :)

 It's good to be back in Michigan - temps dropped slowly today and by 
commute time, the Kalamazoo area was glazed up nicely like some gigantic 
deadly confection.  I did the first parking lot donuts of the season 
over at Lowe's after buying an ice scraper.
 And uh, oh yeah, time to get those sport package wheels & tires OFF 
this car.  heh heh.  But not before I do a few more donuts at the end of 
our street.  whooooo!  I usually have to be at the autocross to do this.

-- 
 "It is an honor to be Cookie Monster."
   -Sesame Street spokeswoman Audrey Shapiro 

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 16 Nov 2005 15:47:28 -0500
From: "Gary Derian" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>, <[email protected]>
Subject: Re: C&D summer tire comparison
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>

Mm, maybe,  At the extreme, rotating mass is equal to the mass, meaning a 20 
lb tire adds 20 lb worth of rotating mass.  Most tire/wheel rotating mass is 
closer to 1/2 lb per lb.

So a 2 lb heavier tire adds at most, 16 lb to the effective mass of the 
vehicle.  Measurable, yes, significant for road use, no.

Gary Derian


> Weight was not given factoring in the scoring either.  The Conti's are 
> lightest 22 lbs, 2-3 less than most of the others.  That much difference 
> in rotating unspung mass will make a difference.
> Barry
>
> Paul A. Garnier wrote:
>
>>The T1 and the Conti's, and the Hankook's are notable exceptions from my
>>list. Some of those tires do NOT last 10k miles like the magazines say 
>>they
>>do.
>>
> Search the ARCHIVES:http://www.mail-archive.com/[email protected]
>
>
> __________________________________________________________________________
> In memory of Michel Potheau - friend, enthusiast, founder of the BMW CCA.
>
> UUC Motorwerks - BMW Performance Fine-tuning and home of the Ultimate
> Short Shifter - accept no substitutes!
> 908-874-9092 . http://www.uucmotorwerks.com 


------------------------------

Date: Wed, 16 Nov 2005 14:28:07 -0800 (PST)
From: Andre Yew <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: [email protected]
Subject: Re: C&D summer tire comparison
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>

Speaking of tire life, I'm about to replace all 4 of my PS2s after 2 years
and 28K+ miles of service, with about 8-10 track days on them.  They could
have gone to 30K miles, since I still have a couple of millimeters before
the wear bars hit on the rear, but after having two unrepairable punctures
in the space of 5 days on two different wheels, it's more convenient to
change them all out now.  I think their long life more than offset their
extra cost compared to the cheaper stuff.  Previous max-performance summer
tires (Yoko AVS Sport, BS S-03, Conti SportContacts) barely lasted 20K
miles.  I couldn't be happier with them. 

Car is an E46 328Ci, with half of the PS2s' life spent on the stock sport
suspension, and the other half on a Bilstein sport shock/H&R sport
spring/UUC sways setup with stock sport alignment.  YMMV as always. 

--Andre


------------------------------

Date: Wed, 16 Nov 2005 15:15:06 -0800
From: Kazuto Okayasu <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[email protected]>
Subject: Re: C&D summer tire comparison
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>

At 12:47 PM 11/16/2005, Gary Derian wrote:

I disagree.  2-3lbs unsprung mass at each wheel/tire is noticeable on 
the street assuming you drive something like a BMW where the car 
isn't absorbing all the road feel.

Start combining heavy tires with heavy wheels (OE+ 5lbs and up) and 
the driving experience starts to take a nosedive.  I like to see 
wheel+tire weight on a typical E36/E46/E90 size (8" wide wheel, 225 
width tire) to be not more than 45lb.

Back to the article, I don't think a tire comparo really isn't 
complete without looking at ride quality and noise (noise when new 
AND when worn).  There are so many choices out there, and the 
differences can be pretty small, as this article shows, that these 
"livability" factors can really sway things.  I know it does for me.

>Mm, maybe,  At the extreme, rotating mass is equal to the mass, 
>meaning a 20 lb tire adds 20 lb worth of rotating mass.  Most 
>tire/wheel rotating mass is closer to 1/2 lb per lb.
>
>So a 2 lb heavier tire adds at most, 16 lb to the effective mass of 
>the vehicle.  Measurable, yes, significant for road use, no.
>
>Gary Derian
>
>
>>Weight was not given factoring in the scoring either.  The Conti's 
>>are lightest 22 lbs, 2-3 less than most of the others.  That much 
>>difference in rotating unspung mass will make a difference.
>>Barry
>>
>>Paul A. Garnier wrote:
>>
>>>The T1 and the Conti's, and the Hankook's are notable exceptions from my
>>>list. Some of those tires do NOT last 10k miles like the magazines say they
>>>do.
>>Search the ARCHIVES:http://www.mail-archive.com/[email protected]
>>
>>
>>__________________________________________________________________________
>>In memory of Michel Potheau - friend, enthusiast, founder of the BMW CCA.
>>
>>UUC Motorwerks - BMW Performance Fine-tuning and home of the Ultimate
>>Short Shifter - accept no substitutes!
>>908-874-9092 . http://www.uucmotorwerks.com
>
>Search the ARCHIVES:http://www.mail-archive.com/[email protected]
>
>
>__________________________________________________________________________
>In memory of Michel Potheau - friend, enthusiast, founder of the BMW CCA.
>
>UUC Motorwerks - BMW Performance Fine-tuning and home of the Ultimate
>Short Shifter - accept no substitutes!
>908-874-9092 . http://www.uucmotorwerks.com

Kazuto Okayasu  Manager, Desktop Support Services
Administrative Computing Services, University of California, Irvine
[EMAIL PROTECTED]


------------------------------

Date: Wed, 16 Nov 2005 15:43:58 -0800
From: "[EMAIL PROTECTED]" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: Kazuto Okayasu <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Cc: [email protected]
Subject: Re: C&D summer tire comparison
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>

     I agree with the disagreement.  Unsprung rotating mass makes a big 
difference in energy needed to accelerate.
Part of keeping 'Jack fast on the street is staying with stock size 17"'s.
     There is a difference between unsprung rotating versus static 
mass.  In cycling, with tire and rim versus frame, its considered a 10:1 
factor.  10 grams less tire and rim weight is like 100 grams less on the 
frame.  The 190 gram "lite" version of a bike tire I'll use for events 
are noticeable quicker to accelerate than a 220 gram regular version of 
the same tire.  With a 160 gram Continental Supersonic, that's at least 
a few seconds per minute on a long hillclimb, or many calories less 
expended on a 200 mile endurance ride.
Barry

Kazuto Okayasu wrote:

> At 12:47 PM 11/16/2005, Gary Derian wrote:
>
> I disagree.  2-3lbs unsprung mass at each wheel/tire is noticeable on 
> the street assuming you drive something like a BMW where the car isn't 
> absorbing all the road feel.
> Start combining heavy tires with heavy wheels (OE+ 5lbs and up) and 
> the driving experience starts to take a nosedive.  I like to see 
> wheel+tire weight on a typical E36/E46/E90 size (8" wide wheel, 225 
> width tire) to be not more than 45lb.


------------------------------

Date: Wed, 16 Nov 2005 20:55:01 -0500
From: "Gary Derian" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>, <[email protected]>
Subject: Re: C&D summer tire comparison
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>

The facts are four 2 lb heavier tires make no more than 16 lb worth of 
inertia.  If that can be felt on the street by a sensitive type then OK. 
But the affect on acceleration will be no more than 3 extra gallons of fuel 
in the tank.

I don't know where the bicycle guys get 10 to 1.  Mass and polar moment of 
inertia are easily calculated.

Gary Derian


>     I agree with the disagreement.  Unsprung rotating mass makes a big 
> difference in energy needed to accelerate.
> Part of keeping 'Jack fast on the street is staying with stock size 17"'s.
>     There is a difference between unsprung rotating versus static mass. 
> In cycling, with tire and rim versus frame, its considered a 10:1 factor. 
> 10 grams less tire and rim weight is like 100 grams less on the frame. 
> The 190 gram "lite" version of a bike tire I'll use for events are 
> noticeable quicker to accelerate than a 220 gram regular version of the 
> same tire.  With a 160 gram Continental Supersonic, that's at least a few 
> seconds per minute on a long hillclimb, or many calories less expended on 
> a 200 mile endurance ride.
> Barry
>
> Kazuto Okayasu wrote:
>
>> At 12:47 PM 11/16/2005, Gary Derian wrote:
>>
>> I disagree.  2-3lbs unsprung mass at each wheel/tire is noticeable on the 
>> street assuming you drive something like a BMW where the car isn't 
>> absorbing all the road feel.
>> Start combining heavy tires with heavy wheels (OE+ 5lbs and up) and the 
>> driving experience starts to take a nosedive.  I like to see wheel+tire 
>> weight on a typical E36/E46/E90 size (8" wide wheel, 225 width tire) to 
>> be not more than 45lb.



------------------------------

Date: Thu, 17 Nov 2005 06:12:53 -0800 (PST)
From: P Kroon <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: [email protected]
Subject: Re: C&D summer tire comparison
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>

Where things really start to get complicated is when
you compare the advantages/disadvatages of larger
width wheels.  Specifically, the added traction of the
wider setup versus the added rotational mass.

I think most will agree that more traction is better,
but at what weight penalty?

-Paul
95 M3
98 Panoz AIV
03 G35

--- Gary Derian <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:

> The facts are four 2 lb heavier tires make no more
> than 16 lb worth of 
> inertia.  If that can be felt on the street by a
> sensitive type then OK. 
> But the affect on acceleration will be no more than
> 3 extra gallons of fuel 
> in the tank.
> 
> I don't know where the bicycle guys get 10 to 1. 
> Mass and polar moment of 
> inertia are easily calculated.
> 
> Gary Derian
> 
> 
> >     I agree with the disagreement.  Unsprung
> rotating mass makes a big 
> > difference in energy needed to accelerate.
> > Part of keeping 'Jack fast on the street is
> staying with stock size 17"'s.
> >     There is a difference between unsprung
> rotating versus static mass. 
> > In cycling, with tire and rim versus frame, its
> considered a 10:1 factor. 
> > 10 grams less tire and rim weight is like 100
> grams less on the frame. 
> > The 190 gram "lite" version of a bike tire I'll
> use for events are 
> > noticeable quicker to accelerate than a 220 gram
> regular version of the 
> > same tire.  With a 160 gram Continental
> Supersonic, that's at least a few 
> > seconds per minute on a long hillclimb, or many
> calories less expended on 
> > a 200 mile endurance ride.
> > Barry
> >
> > Kazuto Okayasu wrote:
> >
> >> At 12:47 PM 11/16/2005, Gary Derian wrote:
> >>
> >> I disagree.  2-3lbs unsprung mass at each
> wheel/tire is noticeable on the 
> >> street assuming you drive something like a BMW
> where the car isn't 
> >> absorbing all the road feel.
> >> Start combining heavy tires with heavy wheels
> (OE+ 5lbs and up) and the 
> >> driving experience starts to take a nosedive.  I
> like to see wheel+tire 
> >> weight on a typical E36/E46/E90 size (8" wide
> wheel, 225 width tire) to 
> >> be not more than 45lb.
> 
> 
> Search the
>
ARCHIVES:http://www.mail-archive.com/[email protected]
> 
> 
>
__________________________________________________________________________
> In memory of Michel Potheau - friend, enthusiast,
> founder of the BMW CCA.
> 
> UUC Motorwerks - BMW Performance Fine-tuning and
> home of the Ultimate
> Short Shifter - accept no substitutes!
> 908-874-9092 . http://www.uucmotorwerks.com
> 



                
__________________________________ 
Yahoo! FareChase: Search multiple travel sites in one click.
http://farechase.yahoo.com

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 16 Nov 2005 13:31:49 -0800
From: "Marco Romani" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[email protected]>
Subject: Re: <e36> Other end of car
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>

IIRC (circa 1998) I was able to use one of the cheapo HF spring compressors
to get out the OE springs.  I compressed them just enough to remove them
with the shocks disconnected.  Remember to have the parking brake off, you
have a bit more room IIRC with it off.

Marco

-----Original Message-----
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Behalf Of chet.dawes
Sent: Tuesday, November 15, 2005 5:41 AM
To: [email protected]; [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: Re: [UUC] <e36> Other end of car



Kevin,
Indeed the half shafts must be unbolted from the diff in order to get
the OE springs out.  And the anti-roll bar unbolted.  Otherwise there is
not enough suspension travel to unseat the springs.  If you try to force
it you could damage the Lobro CV joint....  The exhaust did not have to
come out for me.  Might make access a tad easier, but definitely not
required.

The half shaft bolts are torx head and getting to them is a bit of a
trick.  Use a good quality socket too 'cause they are tight to break
loose and those silly torx head bolts can round off easily.  I found the
best way at them is with an extension from the wheel house.  I put a
drift in the brake rotor against the brake pad carrier to keep it from
rotating and then had plenty of room to put a good sized breaker bar on
it.  The bolts have loc-tite on them, so be sure to clean and re-apply
on assembly.  I actually replaced the torx bolts with allen head bolts
so getting them off next time would be easier.

Hope that helps.

Chet Dawes

-----Original Message-----

From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: [email protected]
Subject: <e36> Other end of car

I forgot to ask this.

On the rear's I have seen procedures detailed online where for the E36
the
half shafts, sway bars and exhaust had to be dropped to replace the
springs
and shocks on the rear. Is it necessary to remove the half shafts to
replace the springs (stock being replaced with H&R's).

-Thanks, Kevin


****************************************************************************
************

Note:  If the reader of this message is not the intended recipient, or an
employee or agent responsible for delivering this message to the intended
recipient, you are hereby notified that any dissemination, distribution or
copying of this communication is strictly prohibited. If you have received
this communication in error, please notify us immediately by replying to the
message and deleting it from your computer. Thank you.

****************************************************************************
************

Search the ARCHIVES:http://www.mail-archive.com/[email protected]


__________________________________________________________________________
In memory of Michel Potheau - friend, enthusiast, founder of the BMW CCA.

UUC Motorwerks - BMW Performance Fine-tuning and home of the Ultimate
Short Shifter - accept no substitutes!
908-874-9092 . http://www.uucmotorwerks.com


------------------------------

Date: Wed, 16 Nov 2005 17:42:04 -0500
From: "Marc Plante" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: [email protected]
Subject: Re: <e36> Other end of car
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>

When I did the job on a 1995 M3 we did the parking brake, sway bars, etc. 
Everything to avoid loosening the half shafts. We couldn't find a way around 
it, Perhaps cause there were 2 140 lb guys working on the project.

Marc Plante
1997 E36 M3/4 67k
Vienna, VA


----- Original Message -----
From: "Marco Romani" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: [email protected]
Subject: Re: [UUC]  <e36> Other end of car
Date: Wed, 16 Nov 2005 13:31:49 -0800

> 
> IIRC (circa 1998) I was able to use one of the cheapo HF spring compressors
> to get out the OE springs.  I compressed them just enough to remove them
> with the shocks disconnected.  Remember to have the parking brake off, you
> have a bit more room IIRC with it off.
> 
> Marco
> 
> -----Original Message-----
> From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Behalf Of chet.dawes
> Sent: Tuesday, November 15, 2005 5:41 AM
> To: [email protected]; [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> Subject: Re: [UUC] <e36> Other end of car
> 
> 
> 
> Kevin,
> Indeed the half shafts must be unbolted from the diff in order to get
> the OE springs out.  And the anti-roll bar unbolted.  Otherwise there is
> not enough suspension travel to unseat the springs.  If you try to force
> it you could damage the Lobro CV joint....  The exhaust did not have to
> come out for me.  Might make access a tad easier, but definitely not
> required.
> 
> The half shaft bolts are torx head and getting to them is a bit of a
> trick.  Use a good quality socket too 'cause they are tight to break
> loose and those silly torx head bolts can round off easily.  I found the
> best way at them is with an extension from the wheel house.  I put a
> drift in the brake rotor against the brake pad carrier to keep it from
> rotating and then had plenty of room to put a good sized breaker bar on
> it.  The bolts have loc-tite on them, so be sure to clean and re-apply
> on assembly.  I actually replaced the torx bolts with allen head bolts
> so getting them off next time would be easier.
> 
> Hope that helps.
> 
> Chet Dawes
> 
> -----Original Message-----
> 
> From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> To: [email protected]
> Subject: <e36> Other end of car
> 
> I forgot to ask this.
> 
> On the rear's I have seen procedures detailed online where for the E36
> the
> half shafts, sway bars and exhaust had to be dropped to replace the
> springs
> and shocks on the rear. Is it necessary to remove the half shafts to
> replace the springs (stock being replaced with H&R's).
> 
> -Thanks, Kevin
> 
> 
> ****************************************************************************
> ************
> 
> Note:  If the reader of this message is not the intended recipient, or an
> employee or agent responsible for delivering this message to the intended
> recipient, you are hereby notified that any dissemination, distribution or
> copying of this communication is strictly prohibited. If you have received
> this communication in error, please notify us immediately by replying to the
> message and deleting it from your computer. Thank you.
> 
> ****************************************************************************
> ************
> 
> Search the ARCHIVES:http://www.mail-archive.com/[email protected]
> 
> 
> __________________________________________________________________________
> In memory of Michel Potheau - friend, enthusiast, founder of the BMW CCA.
> 
> UUC Motorwerks - BMW Performance Fine-tuning and home of the Ultimate
> Short Shifter - accept no substitutes!
> 908-874-9092 . http://www.uucmotorwerks.com
> 
> Search the ARCHIVES:http://www.mail-archive.com/[email protected]
> 
> 
> __________________________________________________________________________
> In memory of Michel Potheau - friend, enthusiast, founder of the BMW CCA.
> 
> UUC Motorwerks - BMW Performance Fine-tuning and home of the Ultimate
> Short Shifter - accept no substitutes!
> 908-874-9092 . http://www.uucmotorwerks.com



------------------------------

Date: Wed, 16 Nov 2005 20:26:23 -0800
From: Donna S <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: "[email protected]" <[email protected]>,
   "[EMAIL PROTECTED]" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>,
   "[EMAIL PROTECTED]" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>,
   bimmerheads <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: smiller fund
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>

Thanks for all the responses to the smiller get-well fund drive!  Since Mr
Cardio is back online, I will only say that I've sent a mass email to all
who contributed, via their paypal email address.

If you don't see it soon, check your spam box. :)
Donna



------------------------------

Date: Thu, 17 Nov 2005 08:38:27 -0500
From: "Marc Plante" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: [email protected]
Subject: Re: smiller fund
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>

Now you get all the emails from people that don't have ready access to their 
SPAM filters.

I'll get in touch with Net Identity to see how to manage it, but overall, how 
did we do?

Marc Plante



----- Original Message -----
From: "Donna S" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: "[email protected]" <[email protected]>, "[EMAIL 
PROTECTED]" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>, "[EMAIL PROTECTED]" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>, 
bimmerheads <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: [UUC]  smiller fund
Date: Wed, 16 Nov 2005 20:26:23 -0800

> 
> Thanks for all the responses to the smiller get-well fund drive!  Since Mr
> Cardio is back online, I will only say that I've sent a mass email to all
> who contributed, via their paypal email address.
> 
> If you don't see it soon, check your spam box. :)
> Donna
> 
> 
> Search the ARCHIVES:http://www.mail-archive.com/[email protected]
> 
> 
> __________________________________________________________________________
> In memory of Michel Potheau - friend, enthusiast, founder of the BMW CCA.
> 
> UUC Motorwerks - BMW Performance Fine-tuning and home of the Ultimate
> Short Shifter - accept no substitutes!
> 908-874-9092 . http://www.uucmotorwerks.com



------------------------------

Date: Thu, 17 Nov 2005 08:57:33 -0600
From: "Paul Craven" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[email protected]>
Subject: <E30> Idle Issues and CEL
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>

Hi all,
        I am having some issues with my 93 325ic with 122kmiles (yes it
is an E30). Over the last month or two the idle has gotten progressively
rougher and last week the check engine light started coming on at idle.
This really started getting bad after I had the airbox out to do the
starter.  Blipping the throttle extinguishes the light and the stomp
test gives a 1222 code which is lambda control 1 (I believe this means
the air/fuel mixture is out of range). Otherwise thecar runs fine.      
        Conventional wisdom states that this is caused by a vacuum leak.
So, I tested with a propane torch to see if I could find a leak (yes I
know this is not necessarily the safest thing to do) and could find no
leaks. A quick web search turned up a nice page by Ted Verrill where he
cured these exact symptoms (including the no leaks found) by replacing
the rubber boot from the air meter to the throttle.  This boot was
lightly cracked on my car so I replaced it and the ICV elbow hose and
the crankcase vent hose.
        The end result is that the idle is marginally improved, but the
car still throws a CEL at idle and may in fact be doing it quicker now.
I have also checked the dipstick O-rings and the oil cap and they seem
fine.  The O2 sensor has maybe 5000 miles on it.  The valves were
adjusted about 8kmiles ago and the plugs were replaced at that time. The
only other suspect part I can come up with is the ICV.  The idle does
hunt once in a while, so I cleaned the ICV when I did the starter and
again a week or so ago when I was looking for vacuum leaks.  Is the ICV
the next logical step?  Any other ideas?

Regards,
Paul Craven
93 325ic - wishing the lumpy idle was from a big cam
99 528iT - so smooth it's almost too smooth


------------------------------

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