The BMW UUC Digest Volume 2 : Issue 795 : "text" Format Messages in this Issue: Re: One more oil pressure question Re: One more oil pressure question Re: One more oil pressure question <E36> HVAC gremlins fixed E30 fuel pressure? E30 fuel pressure? Re: <e36> fails new smog test
---------------------------------------------------------------------- Date: Sat, 3 Sep 2005 22:19:33 -0400 From: "Rich Dorffer" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: "Ryan Simmons" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>, "Carlos Lopez" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Cc: <[email protected]> Subject: Re: One more oil pressure question Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> There is a proper sender for the 80 psi gauge, I have one in one of my cars along with the 80 psi gauge. There is most certainly a proper 0-80 psi sender and 0-80 psi gauge for your car. Bavarian Autosport has their head up their @ss by putting together a kit with the 0-150psi gauge for BMWs (as their is no point in having that range and the readability is definitely reduced). They must really have it screwed up if they didn't send the proper sender the first time for their 0-150psi gauge. Regards, Rich > -----Original Message----- > From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] > [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Behalf Of Ryan Simmons > Sent: Saturday, September 03, 2005 12:33 PM > To: Carlos Lopez > Cc: Ryan Simmons; [email protected] > Subject: Re: [UUC] One more oil pressure question > > > I bought the 150psi gauge. There is no sender for the 80psi. It will not > work on my car. The sender I have IS for this gauge, that is, the 150psi. > I shouldn't have said that I have low pressure :( > It is still above the minimum at full load...just closer to it at > 58-60 psi. > So maybe that is not low by somebody elses standards. The Benteley says > 55psi is the minimum. ------------------------------ Date: Sat, 3 Sep 2005 19:33:15 -0700 (PDT) From: "Ryan Simmons" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Cc: "Ryan Simmons" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>, "Carlos Lopez" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>, [email protected] Subject: Re: One more oil pressure question Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> I am sorry for saying that there was not a sender for my car. This is the information that I was given. If I had known then I wouldn't have changed to the 150psi gauge, and for that matter even bothered with Bavarian and BMP for a sender. I originally got the sender and the 80psi from my local import auto parts store. They mainly specialize in VW's so all of the VDO gauges they have are, I think, for that particular application. they can certainly order anything I want from VDO, but it would take longer than getting it from Bavarian. So they sold me the 80psi gauge. The sender would not fit without some adapter. The auto parts store was not able to get this adapter. I could only find it through Bavarian or BMP. So I took back the sender I bought and order a sender and adapter from Bavarian. Still thinking that the gauge was the right application for the sender, the problems thus began. So all in all it is my fault for not putting everything together. I agree that the 150psi is a ridiculous application. Since I used the 80psi I can't take it back. That is the screwed up part. I was planning on keeping it anyway, and now that I think about it the sender that the auto parts store sold me WAS for the 80psi. All I needed was the adapter from Bavarian. Damn! Too much trouble, too little thought. Ryan- > There is a proper sender for the 80 psi gauge, I have one in one of my > cars > along with the 80 psi gauge. There is most certainly a proper 0-80 psi > sender and 0-80 psi gauge for your car. > > Bavarian Autosport has their head up their @ss by putting together a kit > with the 0-150psi gauge for BMWs (as their is no point in having that > range > and the readability is definitely reduced). They must really have it > screwed up if they didn't send the proper sender the first time for their > 0-150psi gauge. > > Regards, > > Rich > >> -----Original Message----- >> From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] >> [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Behalf Of Ryan Simmons >> Sent: Saturday, September 03, 2005 12:33 PM >> To: Carlos Lopez >> Cc: Ryan Simmons; [email protected] >> Subject: Re: [UUC] One more oil pressure question >> >> >> I bought the 150psi gauge. There is no sender for the 80psi. It will >> not >> work on my car. The sender I have IS for this gauge, that is, the >> 150psi. >> I shouldn't have said that I have low pressure :( >> It is still above the minimum at full load...just closer to it at >> 58-60 psi. >> So maybe that is not low by somebody elses standards. The Benteley says >> 55psi is the minimum. > > ------------------------------ Date: Sat, 3 Sep 2005 22:58:06 -0400 From: "Rich Dorffer" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: "Ryan Simmons" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Cc: <[email protected]> Subject: Re: One more oil pressure question Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Get exactly what you need from here: http://www.egauges.com/vdo_grou.asp?Series=Vision&Cart= and here for the proper gauges: http://www.egauges.com/vdo_mult.asp?Type=Elec_Engine_Pressure&Series=Vision&; Cart= and from that page you can pick out the proper sender. There are many other places like www.egauges.com, this was just one example. Regards, Rich ------------------------------ Date: Sat, 3 Sep 2005 23:14:46 -0700 From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: [email protected] Subject: <E36> HVAC gremlins fixed Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> this weekend my son and I worked on the problem of the fan which seems to cycle off and on and change speeds at random. At first we suspected the controller. After removing it and inspecting it looked OK. We touched up the solder joints at the connectors and where they looked like they have voids or cracks. Problem didn't go away. We replaced the final stage resistor and this solved the problem. The heat sink on the new unit is considerably different then the , we suspect, original. -Kevin ---------------------------------------------------------------- This e-mail communication is confidential and is intended only for the individual(s) or entity named above and others who have been specifically authorized to receive it. If you are not the intended recipient, please do not read, copy, use or disclose the contents of this communication to others. Please notify the sender that you have received this e-mail in error by replying to the e-mail. Please then delete the e-mail and any copies of it. Thank you. ---------------------------------------------------------------- ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 4 Sep 2005 17:10:06 -0400 (EDT) From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: [email protected] (bmw list) Subject: E30 fuel pressure? Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> I just got done testing my fuel pressure in my 87' 325i and am now confused... Symptoms/Why was I doing this?: Car exhibits strange cold start habits. Some mornings it is fine, others, it cranks a good deal longer before starting. On long crank mornings the car runs rough and with a very low idle (~400 RPM) for the first 30-60 seconds. Manually running the pumps for a few seconds has always resulted in a clean start. Car tends to bog and attempt to stall or simply have zero power on first roll out of the morning. This only occurs the first 5 minutes of running. If I let it idle for a while first, it doesn't do this. Overall idle is steady but rough. Although the tach never moves, there is a ~4 second cycle of smooth idle/rough idle. Warm restarts are anyone's guess. Fast enough, no problem. Wait too long and you have to use the accelerator to get a start. Wait even longer, no problem, unless it is cold, then see the first symptom. I do not get a check engine light, but the system will notice if I pull the O2 sensor. I did that to see if I lost the light bulb or something... What I did: I checked for vacuum leaks. No cracks that I can find. Spraying stuff (wd-40, etc) at suspected leaks never showed anything. Coolant temperature sensor checks good. Fuel pressure gets strange. I put tee with a gauge in line with the supply side of the rail (#6/firewall side). I used my handy "test relay" to actuate the fuel pumps. I read 40 psi. When I shut the pumps down, it falls to somewhere between 35 and 40 psi and holds (usually about 35psi, but it varries on each attempt). With the pumps running sucking on the hose to the regulator doesn't seem to result in a decrease in pressure (but does taste bad). Clamping the return line will drive the pressure well over 50 psi. With the engine running, I get 35psi, but it jumps up to 40psi if I pull the vacuum hose from the regulator. On shutdown, it holds at 35psi, but bled down to 30 psi in about an hour and 20 psi an hour after that. The regulator itself has the correct Bosch part number (0 280 160 249) and is labeled as a 3.0 Bar regulator. Mr. Bentley says that I should be getting 43.5 psi on the rail with the engine off. I get 40. Mr. Bentley says I should be getting 40-46 psi on the rail with the engine running. I get 35-40. Mr. Bentley says I should be able to get more than 46 psi by clamping the return line. I can. Wild Speculation: If I didn't know better, I would almost think that I have a mismarked 2.5 Bar regulator. The magic numbers for that would have been 39 psi engine not running and 33-39 psi running. If my gauge was reading +1 psi from actual, the numbers are exact. It could be gauge error... even if that were the case and my first readings are corrected to "right" then the regulator still seems marginal with a range of 39-44 psi on a running engine. I am assuming that the rail is not supposed to loose 5 psi in an hour, so something is leaking. It almost seems like I have rich/lean symptoms all at the same time. The cold start strangeness sounds like not enough fuel as does the bogging down until it warms up a bit. The rough idle sounds a little like "lean hunting" from back in my VW days. Again, not enough fuel. Hmmm, I wonder if the "high NOx" emissions failure two years ago was related. I ended up changing the catalyst to make the state happy, but the mantra around here was "lean mix/vacuum leak", but I couldn't find any and neither could the state certified emissions shop. The warm restart issues sound more like too much fuel, but if an injector or the regulator were leaking fuel into the intake manifold, that would account for the symptoms... So, anyone else think that my FPR needs the lake test, or did I miss something. -- Joe, not confused anymore... -- Joseph M. Krzeszewski Network Operations [EMAIL PROTECTED] Jack of All Trades, Master of None... Yet ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 4 Sep 2005 17:29:34 -0400 From: Whit Lowell <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: "[EMAIL PROTECTED]" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Cc: bmw list <[email protected]> Subject: E30 fuel pressure? Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Joe, I do not know if the case correlates between E34 and E30; on the former, the fuel pressure bleed issue is a common problem. It occurs at the pump/sender assembly, which is *in the tank* on E32/E34 cars and external/to the left of the tank on E30 automobiles (hence I can't confirm). The DIY fix, that being not replacing the sending unit, is to install an inline check valve at the sending unit to maintain pressure. My studies and training (or lack thereof) lead me to conclude that a faulty FPR would result in the car running rough all the time. That's not to say you should rule it out. I'd also be inspecting the injectors and O rings, but would suspect the typical stink if the aforementioned were faulty. Seems like you've ruled out those issues. If they haven't been carefully checked yet, it'd be wise to inspect the fuel lines, both rubber and metal. These cars are at a point in their lives wherein corrosion has finally taken its toll and can inflict fuel and brake line leaks. best, whit On 9/4/05, [EMAIL PROTECTED] <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote: > I just got done testing my fuel pressure in my 87' 325i and am now > confused... > > Symptoms/Why was I doing this?: > > Car exhibits strange cold start habits. Some mornings it is fine, > others, it cranks a good deal longer before starting. On long crank mornings > the car runs rough and with a very low idle (~400 RPM) for the first 30-60 > seconds. Manually running the pumps for a few seconds has always resulted in > a clean start. > > Car tends to bog and attempt to stall or simply have zero power on > first roll out of the morning. This only occurs the first 5 minutes of > running. If I let it idle for a while first, it doesn't do this. > > Overall idle is steady but rough. Although the tach never moves, > there is a ~4 second cycle of smooth idle/rough idle. > > Warm restarts are anyone's guess. Fast enough, no problem. Wait too > long and you have to use the accelerator to get a start. Wait even longer, > no problem, unless it is cold, then see the first symptom. > > I do not get a check engine light, but the system will notice if I > pull the O2 sensor. I did that to see if I lost the light bulb or > something... > > What I did: > > I checked for vacuum leaks. No cracks that I can find. Spraying > stuff (wd-40, etc) at suspected leaks never showed anything. > > Coolant temperature sensor checks good. > > Fuel pressure gets strange. I put tee with a gauge in line with the > supply side of the rail (#6/firewall side). I used my handy "test relay" to > actuate the fuel pumps. I read 40 psi. When I shut the pumps down, it falls > to somewhere between 35 and 40 psi and holds (usually about 35psi, but it > varries on each attempt). With the pumps running sucking on the hose to the > regulator doesn't seem to result in a decrease in pressure (but does taste > bad). Clamping the return line will drive the pressure well over 50 psi. > With the engine running, I get 35psi, but it jumps up to 40psi if I pull the > vacuum hose from the regulator. On shutdown, it holds at 35psi, but bled > down to 30 psi in about an hour and 20 psi an hour after that. The regulator > itself has the correct Bosch part number (0 280 160 249) and is labeled as a > 3.0 Bar regulator. > > Mr. Bentley says that I should be getting 43.5 psi on the rail with the > engine off. I get 40. > > Mr. Bentley says I should be getting 40-46 psi on the rail with the engine > running. I get 35-40. > > Mr. Bentley says I should be able to get more than 46 psi by clamping the > return line. I can. > > Wild Speculation: > > If I didn't know better, I would almost think that I have a > mismarked 2.5 Bar regulator. The magic numbers for that would have been 39 > psi engine not running and 33-39 psi running. If my gauge was reading +1 psi > from actual, the numbers are exact. > > It could be gauge error... even if that were the case and my first > readings are corrected to "right" then the regulator still seems marginal > with a range of 39-44 psi on a running engine. > > I am assuming that the rail is not supposed to loose 5 psi in an hour, so > something is leaking. > > It almost seems like I have rich/lean symptoms all at the same time. The > cold start strangeness sounds like not enough fuel as does the bogging down > until it warms up a bit. > > The rough idle sounds a little like "lean hunting" from back in my VW days. > Again, not enough fuel. > > Hmmm, I wonder if the "high NOx" emissions failure two years ago was > related. I ended up changing the catalyst to make the state happy, but the > mantra around here was "lean mix/vacuum leak", but I couldn't find any and > neither could the state certified emissions shop. > > The warm restart issues sound more like too much fuel, but if an injector or > the regulator were leaking fuel into the intake manifold, that would account > for the symptoms... > > So, anyone else think that my FPR needs the lake test, or did I miss > something. > > -- Joe, not confused anymore... > > -- > Joseph M. Krzeszewski Network Operations > [EMAIL PROTECTED] Jack of All Trades, Master of None... > Yet > Search the ARCHIVES:http://www.mail-archive.com/[email protected] > > > __________________________________________________________________________ > In memory of Michel Potheau - friend, enthusiast, founder of the BMW CCA. > > UUC Motorwerks - BMW Performance Fine-tuning and home of the Ultimate > Short Shifter - accept no substitutes! > 908-874-9092 . http://www.uucmotorwerks.com > ------------------------------ Date: 4 Sep 2005 17:37:59 -0700 From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: [email protected] Cc: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: Re: <e36> fails new smog test Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Ask your independent shop to recommend a smog check station. That worked well for me last month. If the DMV sends you to a Test-Only station and your car fails, you must get a retest at a Test-Only station. That's a simplification, but I doubt the restriction you mention exists. More info at <http://www.smogcheck.ca.gov/StdPage.asp?Body=/Smogcheck/default.htm> Curt Ingraham Oakland, CA 72 2002tii, 76 2002 > So does anyone recommend a good smog test & repair shop in the > SF Bay area, preferably near Milpitas/Fremont ? As I understand > it, most BMW shops are not allowed to do smog repairs once you have > failed the test, unless they are also a smog test & repair shop. > I would hate to have to take it to a dealer... > > steve ------------------------------ End of [bmwuucdigest] digest(7 messages) **********
