The BMW UUC Digest Volume 2 : Issue 852 : "text" Format Messages in this Issue: Re: More problems E30 <LONG> Re: More problems E30 <LONG> 95 M3 Cooling and Smoking problems... (LONG) Re: 95 M3 Cooling and Smoking problems... (LONG) Re: 95 M3 Cooling and Smoking problems... now crankcase pressure Re: 90 525iA engine missing Re: 90 525iA engine missing <e34> radiator woes - long
---------------------------------------------------------------------- Date: Tue, 01 Nov 2005 07:36:02 -0600 From: Clarence <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: Brian Ruiz <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Cc: Ryan Simmons <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>, UUC Digest <[email protected]> Subject: Re: More problems E30 <LONG> Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> It's funny how a seemingly unrelated almost non-problem can be the cause of such a headache. This brings up a good point. If I remember correctly, there's a connector on the bottom side of the AFM. These are known to get gunky and need cleaning. I'm sure you've disconnected it several times while working on this, but have you specifically checked these wires and their connectors? Sorry if you've mentioned this already. Also, you or someone else mentioned cleaning the rotor and cap. I wasn't sure if this meant just wiping it to check for cracks or scraping stuff off the contact points (there's no real contact, I'm just calling it that). It's my understanding that cleaning the contact points actually worsens the parts' ability to properly conduct electricity. Just some thoughts. Keep us posted. Clarence West Bend, WI Brian Ruiz wrote: > Ryan, > > I've been following this closely, and this last email > here reminded me of a very weird problem I had quite a > few years back with my 318. This may or may not sound > right to you, but check the wiring to your alternator. > Make sure the metal connectors are clean and all the > wires are bound well to the connector itself. If the > insulation is worn through and some of the wires are > showing/broken (and dirty), cut off the end and > resolder a new tip to the cable and seal it up well > with heat-shrink tubing (or better yet, replace the > cable). > > When you mentioned that you were "messing > with/checking/cleaning the air flow meter and the > hoses around it", and that the problem was worse > afterwards, that immediately reminded me of the > problem I had, and made me think that you might have > bumped the wiring while you were cleaning everything > up in there. Mine had an extremely violent hesitation > such as you describe. This happened to me while I was > in school too. ;) And it would always seem worse > while I was driving back to school from being home for > the weekend. Sometimes my car wouldn't even start, > but if I slammed the pedal to the floor a couple times > and then tried to restart it, it would start right up > as if nothing was wrong. Turns out the vibration of > the throttle body opening and closing (which is > vertically mounted to the intake manifold on the 318 > and thus very close to the alternator wiring) was > enough to jar the connection to a working state. It > took me about 2 months to track down the problem. I > had even picked up a replacement L-JET ECU from (I > think) Ed MacVaugh that he had lying around and wanted > to get rid of, in the thought that the problem, as > transient as it was, might be the ECU. My Dad and I > had spent quite a bit of money on random parts trying > to get it fixed. I did end up replacing the AFM, as > well as the ICV. :-/ After replacing them, (they were > generic "Python" I think, rebuilt units) and it still > not working, I started to attribute it to the fact > that they weren't genuine Bosch/rebuilt BMW units. It > was really irritating. Then one day, my Dad was just > messing with/checking/cleaning connections in the > engine bay, and noticed that the alternator wiring was > old and insultation worn. He cleaned it up, > resoldered a new copper(?) tip to one of the wires, > not even thinking that it would help anything, just > out of general maintenance principle. It fired right > up, and the problem never reoccurred. > > I really hope this is your problem, so you won't have > to go spending more money chasing problems you don't > have. I consoled myself with the fact that at least > all those components are nice and new, and I had good > peace of mind about the state of the engine > electronics and reliability of the car. :) > > HTH, > Brian > 95 M3 > RIP 84 318 "Cassie" ;) > > > --- Ryan Simmons <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote: > > >>Hi all! >>I took the advice of an off list suggestion to >>replace the boot going from >>the air flow meter to the throttle body. Since it >>was cheap insurance and >>I work near the autoparts place that would sell it >>(live forty miles away) >>I bought and replaced it. Now this seemed to help, >>(the boot was worn >>where the vacume hose that goes to the valve cover >>connects)but the >>problem still exists. Althought the car is much >>more responsive then >>before I am still getting a violent hesitation WHEN >>the car is warm and >>WHEN I am accelerating under 2000 rpm's e.g. >>accelerating from first to >>second, third to fourth or just accelerating in a >>gear when under 2000 >>rpm's. It doesn't seem to occur above this range. >>Because it occurs when >>it is warm, it seems to me to be a vacume leak. I >>experienced so much of >>this with my 320i, the symptoms seem similar. I >>checked all of the hoses >>I could find and they all seem ok, although I didn't >>use any soapy water >>or carb cleaner. So at this point the o2 sensor has >>been changed, fuel >>filter, air filter, cap, rotor and plugs are all >>good. Could it possibly >>be the temp. sensor? Jeff suggested this of list, >>and I suspected it this >>summer, but never acted on replacing it. I did >>replace the temp. sender >>since the gauge was erratic. To you guys does this >>seem like a vacume >>leak, or atleast characteristic of one? Or possibly >>fuel related? I have >>not checked the air flow meter and won't be able to >>until this weekend >>(midterms this week), but I will do that for sure. >>A new one is about >>$270 so I would like to rule out all other >>possibilities first. >>It is interesting that the problem worsened when >>this weekend I replaced >>the o2 sensor, and I was messing >>with/checking/cleaning the air flow meter >>and the hoses around it. I did not check or clean >>the internals of the >>meter i.e. the potentiometer or any other related >>part. I only cleaned >>the temp sensor and the housing inside, and made >>sure the door was opening >>properly whith out any binding. Everything was ok >>there. >>Thanks in advance...really, >>Ryan- >> >> >> >>>On Sat, Oct 29, 2005 at 08:25:56PM -0700, Ryan >> >>Simmons wrote: >> >>>>I suspect the air flow sensor is bad. Has anyone >> >>had a similar >> >>>>problem? Any ideas? >>> >>> People used to talk about the old barn door AFMs >> >>more often. Oh the >> >>>poor old E30s... >>> The working guts of the AFM are just a temp >> >>sensor and a potentiometer >> >>>that reads the position of the barn door. Like >> >>any potentiometer, they >> >>>can get worn and/or dirty, producing erratic >> >>readings. You can often >> >>>extend their life by opening it up and cleaning it >> >>carefully with some >> >>>electronic cleaner. Others have reported success >> >>carefully bending the >> >>>wiper so that it takes a slightly different track >> >>across the surface of >> >>>the circuit board. >>> Proper bench measurement can tell you if you are >> >>getting a good signal >> >>>from the unit. Simply hooking a DMM across the >> >>appropriate terminals >> >>>and attempting to measure resistance as you move >> >>the mechanism has never >> >>>worked for me. Jumpy readings result even on a >> >>working AFM. >> >>> You need to apply 5V across the 2 ends of the >> >>potentiometer, and then >> >>>use your DMM to measure voltage at the wiper >> >>terminal. This should >> >>>produce a smoothly increasing/decreasing reading >> >>as you move the >> >>>mechanism. >>> The exact pinout of the AFM escapes me, but if >> >>you pry the plastic >> >>>cover off, you can see what to do. Be sure to >> >>seal it up properly when >> >>>you're done, and don't monkey with the adjustable >> >>spring. >> >>> Newer BMWs use hot wire MAF technology and just >> >>aren't as much fun to >> >>>monkey with, what with the lack of moving parts. >> >>:) My Subaru has gone >> >>>even simpler, ditching the MAF sensor for an even >> >>simpler MAP system. >> >>>-- >>> "It is an honor to be Cookie Monster." >>> -Sesame Street spokeswoman Audrey Shapiro ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 1 Nov 2005 08:48:29 -0800 (PST) From: "Ryan Simmons" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: "Clarence" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Cc: "Brian Ruiz" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>, "Ryan Simmons" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>, "UUC Digest" <[email protected]> Subject: Re: More problems E30 <LONG> Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> I did not clean the cap and rotor, I replaced them this summer (August). I do need to check the contacts on the air flow meter. I have meant to trace the wires and make sure they are good, clean and tight. Thank you, Ryan- > It's funny how a seemingly unrelated almost non-problem can be the cause > of such a headache. > > This brings up a good point. If I remember correctly, there's a > connector on the bottom side of the AFM. These are known to get gunky > and need cleaning. I'm sure you've disconnected it several times while > working on this, but have you specifically checked these wires and their > connectors? Sorry if you've mentioned this already. > > Also, you or someone else mentioned cleaning the rotor and cap. I wasn't > sure if this meant just wiping it to check for cracks or scraping stuff > off the contact points (there's no real contact, I'm just calling it > that). It's my understanding that cleaning the contact points actually > worsens the parts' ability to properly conduct electricity. > > Just some thoughts. Keep us posted. > > Clarence > West Bend, WI > > Brian Ruiz wrote: >> Ryan, >> >> I've been following this closely, and this last email >> here reminded me of a very weird problem I had quite a >> few years back with my 318. This may or may not sound >> right to you, but check the wiring to your alternator. >> Make sure the metal connectors are clean and all the >> wires are bound well to the connector itself. If the >> insulation is worn through and some of the wires are >> showing/broken (and dirty), cut off the end and >> resolder a new tip to the cable and seal it up well >> with heat-shrink tubing (or better yet, replace the >> cable). >> >> When you mentioned that you were "messing >> with/checking/cleaning the air flow meter and the >> hoses around it", and that the problem was worse >> afterwards, that immediately reminded me of the >> problem I had, and made me think that you might have >> bumped the wiring while you were cleaning everything >> up in there. Mine had an extremely violent hesitation >> such as you describe. This happened to me while I was >> in school too. ;) And it would always seem worse >> while I was driving back to school from being home for >> the weekend. Sometimes my car wouldn't even start, >> but if I slammed the pedal to the floor a couple times >> and then tried to restart it, it would start right up >> as if nothing was wrong. Turns out the vibration of >> the throttle body opening and closing (which is >> vertically mounted to the intake manifold on the 318 >> and thus very close to the alternator wiring) was >> enough to jar the connection to a working state. It >> took me about 2 months to track down the problem. I >> had even picked up a replacement L-JET ECU from (I >> think) Ed MacVaugh that he had lying around and wanted >> to get rid of, in the thought that the problem, as >> transient as it was, might be the ECU. My Dad and I >> had spent quite a bit of money on random parts trying >> to get it fixed. I did end up replacing the AFM, as >> well as the ICV. :-/ After replacing them, (they were >> generic "Python" I think, rebuilt units) and it still >> not working, I started to attribute it to the fact >> that they weren't genuine Bosch/rebuilt BMW units. It >> was really irritating. Then one day, my Dad was just >> messing with/checking/cleaning connections in the >> engine bay, and noticed that the alternator wiring was >> old and insultation worn. He cleaned it up, >> resoldered a new copper(?) tip to one of the wires, >> not even thinking that it would help anything, just >> out of general maintenance principle. It fired right >> up, and the problem never reoccurred. >> >> I really hope this is your problem, so you won't have >> to go spending more money chasing problems you don't >> have. I consoled myself with the fact that at least >> all those components are nice and new, and I had good >> peace of mind about the state of the engine >> electronics and reliability of the car. :) >> >> HTH, >> Brian >> 95 M3 >> RIP 84 318 "Cassie" ;) >> >> >> --- Ryan Simmons <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote: >> >> >>>Hi all! >>>I took the advice of an off list suggestion to >>>replace the boot going from >>>the air flow meter to the throttle body. Since it >>>was cheap insurance and >>>I work near the autoparts place that would sell it >>>(live forty miles away) >>>I bought and replaced it. Now this seemed to help, >>>(the boot was worn >>>where the vacume hose that goes to the valve cover >>>connects)but the >>>problem still exists. Althought the car is much >>>more responsive then >>>before I am still getting a violent hesitation WHEN >>>the car is warm and >>>WHEN I am accelerating under 2000 rpm's e.g. >>>accelerating from first to >>>second, third to fourth or just accelerating in a >>>gear when under 2000 >>>rpm's. It doesn't seem to occur above this range. >>>Because it occurs when >>>it is warm, it seems to me to be a vacume leak. I >>>experienced so much of >>>this with my 320i, the symptoms seem similar. I >>>checked all of the hoses >>>I could find and they all seem ok, although I didn't >>>use any soapy water >>>or carb cleaner. So at this point the o2 sensor has >>>been changed, fuel >>>filter, air filter, cap, rotor and plugs are all >>>good. Could it possibly >>>be the temp. sensor? Jeff suggested this of list, >>>and I suspected it this >>>summer, but never acted on replacing it. I did >>>replace the temp. sender >>>since the gauge was erratic. To you guys does this >>>seem like a vacume >>>leak, or atleast characteristic of one? Or possibly >>>fuel related? I have >>>not checked the air flow meter and won't be able to >>>until this weekend >>>(midterms this week), but I will do that for sure. >>>A new one is about >>>$270 so I would like to rule out all other >>>possibilities first. >>>It is interesting that the problem worsened when >>>this weekend I replaced >>>the o2 sensor, and I was messing >>>with/checking/cleaning the air flow meter >>>and the hoses around it. I did not check or clean >>>the internals of the >>>meter i.e. the potentiometer or any other related >>>part. I only cleaned >>>the temp sensor and the housing inside, and made >>>sure the door was opening >>>properly whith out any binding. Everything was ok >>>there. >>>Thanks in advance...really, >>>Ryan- >>> >>> >>> >>>>On Sat, Oct 29, 2005 at 08:25:56PM -0700, Ryan >>> >>>Simmons wrote: >>> >>>>>I suspect the air flow sensor is bad. Has anyone >>> >>>had a similar >>> >>>>>problem? Any ideas? >>>> >>>> People used to talk about the old barn door AFMs >>> >>>more often. Oh the >>> >>>>poor old E30s... >>>> The working guts of the AFM are just a temp >>> >>>sensor and a potentiometer >>> >>>>that reads the position of the barn door. Like >>> >>>any potentiometer, they >>> >>>>can get worn and/or dirty, producing erratic >>> >>>readings. You can often >>> >>>>extend their life by opening it up and cleaning it >>> >>>carefully with some >>> >>>>electronic cleaner. Others have reported success >>> >>>carefully bending the >>> >>>>wiper so that it takes a slightly different track >>> >>>across the surface of >>> >>>>the circuit board. >>>> Proper bench measurement can tell you if you are >>> >>>getting a good signal >>> >>>>from the unit. Simply hooking a DMM across the >>> >>>appropriate terminals >>> >>>>and attempting to measure resistance as you move >>> >>>the mechanism has never >>> >>>>worked for me. Jumpy readings result even on a >>> >>>working AFM. >>> >>>> You need to apply 5V across the 2 ends of the >>> >>>potentiometer, and then >>> >>>>use your DMM to measure voltage at the wiper >>> >>>terminal. This should >>> >>>>produce a smoothly increasing/decreasing reading >>> >>>as you move the >>> >>>>mechanism. >>>> The exact pinout of the AFM escapes me, but if >>> >>>you pry the plastic >>> >>>>cover off, you can see what to do. Be sure to >>> >>>seal it up properly when >>> >>>>you're done, and don't monkey with the adjustable >>> >>>spring. >>> >>>> Newer BMWs use hot wire MAF technology and just >>> >>>aren't as much fun to >>> >>>>monkey with, what with the lack of moving parts. >>> >>>:) My Subaru has gone >>> >>>>even simpler, ditching the MAF sensor for an even >>> >>>simpler MAP system. >>> >>>>-- >>>> "It is an honor to be Cookie Monster." >>>> -Sesame Street spokeswoman Audrey Shapiro > ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 1 Nov 2005 08:32:10 -0800 From: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: <[email protected]> Subject: 95 M3 Cooling and Smoking problems... (LONG) Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> All - I have a 95 M3 race car. I've been through the dreaded 95 M3 head gasket problem which was resolved by using the proper head gasket, and installing studs. Ran well for a few years. Then the engine was recently rebuilt, again using a good crush ring gasket and studs. Also, brought it up to BMWCCA IP specs with cams, intake, exhaust, and custom chip. Two issues since rebuild: Cooling problems... Since the rebuild the engine has run on the hot side - like 220 to maybe 230 on the track. I have a real guage in it so I'm confident of the readings - it's electric, with sensor in the thermostat housing. At a race in May, the water temp ran up to about 250, so I got my butt off the track, and called it quits for the weekend (was the last race anyway). Since then, I've had some medical issues that have stopped me from fiddling with it until today. Here's what I saw - it was a bit low on water. Not dramatically low, like when it used to blow water out with the head gasket problem. I refilled it, and bled the system, and let it idle for quite a long time. It stabilized at about 210 with the electric fan coming on periodically. Since it's not street legal, I can't just take it out and run the 'p' out of it to generate heat. What I did notice though, is that the system never really developed any pressure. I could take the cap off with only the smallest amount of pressure evidentally being released. Is this normal? Anyone want to go out and let their E36 idle up to temp and see if theirs develops pressure? I didn't see any leaks anywhere, but I suppose there could be subtle ones. Could the lack of pressurization explain why this engine wants to run hot? Should it develop pressure in this simple idle test? Could it be leaking pressure at the head gasket (god please no!). BTW - the overflow bottle and cap were replaced last year and are not 'ovalized' as they often get after time - they look new. Thermostat is new last year. Radiator is upgraded BMW part - I can't remember from which BMW, but it's supposed to be a bit bigger and has OEM fit. I'm running undersized pulleys. Smoking problems... When idling, this car emits quite a lot of oil smoke (less when cold, but when warmed up, it really smokes). However, on the track it does not smoke at all. Which leads me to conclude that it's smoking under high vacuum only. Interestingly, no one has commented that the car smokes when I lift on the track. Of course, rings or valve guides come to mind, but are there other things that could be wrong, like crankcase ventilation, etc?? Any thoughts appreciated. Joe ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 1 Nov 2005 10:01:21 -0800 From: "Marco Romani" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: <[email protected]> Subject: Re: 95 M3 Cooling and Smoking problems... (LONG) Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Well some quick thoughts on the overheating 1) make sure the thermostat is in the correct way. it will fit both ways and if you have it in backwards it will give some of the indications you've noticed. The spring should go into the block. 2) buy a cooler thermostat. 3) make sure it's really bled well. It took me forever to get my car to get all the air out of the system. I finally drove it partially up the trailer ramps so it was sitting way nose high and bled it that way. Worked great. With the cap off the expansion tank you should notice a steady stream of water coming from the little top hose connection at 3000rpm. If all you see/hear is air there is a air block somewhere. 4) my hoses feel pretty hard <heh heh> when at temp 5) Put an S54 radiator in the car. In my car with a 80 degree Celsius thermostat the temp gauge stayed rock solid at 210 this past weekend. granted it was cool out. On the smoking check the inside of the intake boot where the breather hose enters. Is there a lot of oil in there? If so you probably have a lot of crankcase pressure. Marco -----Original Message----- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Behalf Of [EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Tuesday, November 01, 2005 8:32 AM To: [email protected] Subject: [UUC] 95 M3 Cooling and Smoking problems... (LONG) All - I have a 95 M3 race car. I've been through the dreaded 95 M3 head gasket problem which was resolved by using the proper head gasket, and installing studs. Ran well for a few years. Then the engine was recently rebuilt, again using a good crush ring gasket and studs. Also, brought it up to BMWCCA IP specs with cams, intake, exhaust, and custom chip. Two issues since rebuild: Cooling problems... Since the rebuild the engine has run on the hot side - like 220 to maybe 230 on the track. I have a real guage in it so I'm confident of the readings - it's electric, with sensor in the thermostat housing. At a race in May, the water temp ran up to about 250, so I got my butt off the track, and called it quits for the weekend (was the last race anyway). Since then, I've had some medical issues that have stopped me from fiddling with it until today. Here's what I saw - it was a bit low on water. Not dramatically low, like when it used to blow water out with the head gasket problem. I refilled it, and bled the system, and let it idle for quite a long time. It stabilized at about 210 with the electric fan coming on periodically. Since it's not street legal, I can't just take it out and run the 'p' out of it to generate heat. What I did notice though, is that the system never really developed any pressure. I could take the cap off with only the smallest amount of pressure evidentally being released. Is this normal? Anyone want to go out and let their E36 idle up to temp and see if theirs develops pressure? I didn't see any leaks anywhere, but I suppose there could be subtle ones. Could the lack of pressurization explain why this engine wants to run hot? Should it develop pressure in this simple idle test? Could it be leaking pressure at the head gasket (god please no!). BTW - the overflow bottle and cap were replaced last year and are not 'ovalized' as they often get after time - they look new. Thermostat is new last year. Radiator is upgraded BMW part - I can't remember from which BMW, but it's supposed to be a bit bigger and has OEM fit. I'm running undersized pulleys. Smoking problems... When idling, this car emits quite a lot of oil smoke (less when cold, but when warmed up, it really smokes). However, on the track it does not smoke at all. Which leads me to conclude that it's smoking under high vacuum only. Interestingly, no one has commented that the car smokes when I lift on the track. Of course, rings or valve guides come to mind, but are there other things that could be wrong, like crankcase ventilation, etc?? Any thoughts appreciated. Joe Search the ARCHIVES:http://www.mail-archive.com/[email protected] __________________________________________________________________________ In memory of Michel Potheau - friend, enthusiast, founder of the BMW CCA. UUC Motorwerks - BMW Performance Fine-tuning and home of the Ultimate Short Shifter - accept no substitutes! 908-874-9092 . http://www.uucmotorwerks.com ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 01 Nov 2005 13:15:08 -0600 From: Clarence <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: Marco Romani <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Cc: [email protected] Subject: Re: 95 M3 Cooling and Smoking problems... now crankcase pressure Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Marco Romani wrote: <snip> > On the smoking check the inside of the intake boot where the breather hose > enters. Is there a lot of oil in there? If so you probably have a lot of > crankcase pressure. Can you tell me of what this is indicative? I've got a '93 525iT (M50tu) that doesn't burn any oil to speak of, but there is IMO too much oil around this area (breather hose into intake boot). It's not dripping, but it is wet. The engine has over 255K miles. TIA Clarence West Bend, WI ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 1 Nov 2005 12:17:30 -0500 From: "Beaudette, Roland SIKORSKY" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: "'UUC (E-mail)'" <[email protected]> Subject: Re: 90 525iA engine missing Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> I should also add that once the car is warm, the problem does not occur. And once warm, WOT performance is fine. -----Original Message----- From: Beaudette, Roland SIKORSKY Sent: Tuesday, November 01, 2005 8:07 AM To: UUC (E-mail) Subject: 90 525iA engine missing All, The 5er's engine has started to miss on a few occasions lately. It is akin to when the tank runs dry. The engine is very sluggish and no amount of throttle input will increase revs. The engine has not actually died so far. It just cuts out for a brief part of a second often enough to affect road speed. The electrical items in the car do not show signs of cutting out. It has been cold during the times when this occurred, about 35-37 deg F. I have recently replaced the coolant temperature switch (blue which I believe is the ECU input). Suggestions? Cheers, Roland ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 1 Nov 2005 12:45:48 -0500 From: "Gary Derian" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: "Beaudette, Roland SIKORSKY" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>, "'UUC \(E-mail\)'" <[email protected]> Subject: Re: 90 525iA engine missing Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Most likely is the coolant temperature sensor. Possibly the intake air temp sensor also. Your symptoms indicate that cold enrichment is not occurring. Gary Derian >I should also add that once the car is warm, the problem does not occur. >And > once warm, WOT performance is fine. > > -----Original Message----- > From: Beaudette, Roland SIKORSKY > Sent: Tuesday, November 01, 2005 8:07 AM > To: UUC (E-mail) > Subject: 90 525iA engine missing > > > All, > > The 5er's engine has started to miss on a few occasions lately. It is > akin > to when the tank runs dry. The engine is very sluggish and no amount of > throttle input will increase revs. The engine has not actually died so > far. > It just cuts out for a brief part of a second often enough to affect road > speed. > > The electrical items in the car do not show signs of cutting out. It has > been cold during the times when this occurred, about 35-37 deg F. I have > recently replaced the coolant temperature switch (blue which I believe is > the ECU input). > > Suggestions? > > Cheers, > > Roland > Search the ARCHIVES:http://www.mail-archive.com/[email protected] > > > __________________________________________________________________________ > In memory of Michel Potheau - friend, enthusiast, founder of the BMW CCA. > > UUC Motorwerks - BMW Performance Fine-tuning and home of the Ultimate > Short Shifter - accept no substitutes! > 908-874-9092 . http://www.uucmotorwerks.com ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 1 Nov 2005 10:48:32 -0800 (PST) From: John Stewart <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: [email protected] Subject: <e34> radiator woes - long Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Last week I decided that adding a cup or more coolant each day was too much, and I broke down and bought and installed a new Behr radiator in my 1993 525ia. To help with the diagnosis - to make sure that my head gasket wasnt part of the problem, I made a little nylon fitting that screws into the bleed screw spot and fits the hose from a little garden sprayer. I dont have a live pressure gauge on the system, but I ran a test on the pressure after 10 and then 20 pumps to be sure that I wouldnt overload the system. This is important to understand my problem description below, because normally a cooling system pressure test would evaluate the cap as a separate step. So with a new radiator installed and with the radiator cap in place, I tested the new system, and found that the system wouldnt hold pressure at all. Air and then coolant immediately came out through the cap. I examined the neck and cap and didnt notice anything obviously wrong. I then removed the cap and held my hand over the mouth of the plastic reservoir and found that the system will hold a fair amount of pressure. I dont have a way to test the cap separately, but I know that it held pressure on the old radiator. Just to be sure, I bought a new cap from the dealer yesterday. The same thing happens with the new cap in place. The cap wont hold pressure. With the radiator cap installed, I can squeeze the top hose and hear air coming out through the cap. With my hand over the top, the system will hold pressure. I compared measurements between the necks of the old and new radiators, and found no apparently significant differences. If anything, the inside-the-neck ledge on the new radiator where the cap seal makes contact is about 1mm closer to top meaning that the rubber seal on the cap would contact it a little sooner in the tightening process. Im stumped. My next idea is to make something shaped like the inside of the cap and with a seal that I can hold in place while I apply pressure, but that will let me see what is happening. Im looking for ideas. What is wrong? John end [EMAIL PROTECTED] __________________________________ Yahoo! FareChase: Search multiple travel sites in one click. http://farechase.yahoo.com ------------------------------ End of [bmwuucdigest] digest(8 messages) **********
