The BMW UUC Digest Volume 2 : Issue 888 : "text" Format Messages in this Issue: Re: Blower motor E36 Re: <E30> non start in cold weather Re: <E30> non start in cold weather Changing flex disc (e36) Re: Changing flex disc (e36) Re: Changing flex disc (e36) <E34> CEL blinks but get a 0000 code Oiling ITG Filter?
---------------------------------------------------------------------- Date: Mon, 05 Dec 2005 11:55:47 -0700 From: Wendall Siemens <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: KMS- Brett Anderson <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>, [email protected] Subject: Re: Blower motor E36 Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Thanks Brett I'll give the "cut the fan off and get it out" technique. I guess I should get the garage nice and warm first though as its only -20 C today. Wendall ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 07 Dec 2005 10:45:52 +0000 From: "Gregory Bradbury" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: [email protected] Subject: Re: <E30> non start in cold weather Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Another common reason MANY BMW's don't start or run poorly when winter comes is due to vacuum leaks. My 1990 E30 had this last winter. Look at the smaller air hoses under the throttle body, you'll need to remove the air filter / air flow meter & boot to inspect this. I had one hose that was cracked at the end, which created a vacuum leak. Cut off the bad end, reinstalled and the problem disappeared. You can debug this with a can of brake cleaner as you spray this around hoses and openings to see if this changes end idle (if you can get the car to run). Good luck, Greg Bradbury ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 07 Dec 2005 08:22:31 -0600 From: Clarence <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Cc: UUC Digest <[email protected]> Subject: Re: <E30> non start in cold weather Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Thanks to those who responded. Turns out the AFM must have developed some condensation and froze. When I removed it, there actually were chunks of ice in the accordian part of the intake bellows. I brought the AFM into the house for a few hours. After replacing it the car started right up. I'll have to take longer drives to work to ensure that there's enough heat under the hood to evaporate any condensation that develops in the AFM. Clarence West Bend, WI [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: > Could be wear on the carbon band in the Air Flow Meter. With temps > getting that low that could be showing up a problem that might not > appear otherwise in warmer weather for another few hundred to few > thousand miles. > The problem is that the copper arm might be contracting enough to not > make contact where the band has more wear. > One way to diagnose if this is happening is if the tach needle drops > to zero when the engine cuts out, indicating no spark. > If you can get the car into a warmer space, above freezing if > possible, than if its the silly cold temps causing the problem, it may > start. > Else, possibly prying up the air flow meter's plastic cap and using > a blow dryer to warm up the copper arm and carbon band may help. Be > sure to use a dab use silicon rubber to reseal the plastic cap. > To test if its the AFM, first, check for spark while cranking. If nos > park, then with the cap off, while an assistant tries to start the car, > notice the copper arm move along the band as the engine cranks. Gently > press a fingertip down on the copper contact point against the carbon > band and see if the car wants to catch. > For a way to rework the carbon arm so it makes good contact again, > see an old article I wrote: > http://normgrills.net/bcg/Injection.html#anchor41563757 > Another possibility could be the coolant temperature switch. These > are inexpensive and easy to replace, and many go bad by 200k miles, so > could be worth replacing now. > hth, > Barry > > > Clarence wrote: > >> Ol' faithful's getting tired. It's an '87 325is. >> >> Car had been running well. Temps are now in the single digits. Trip >> to work is under 5 miles and car doesn't get to warm up very well. Had >> driven it for 1.5 hours on Saturday then parked it until Monday. >> >> Last night after work it started OK but died when I depressed the >> throttle more than a little. It idled rough though it was possible to >> rev it in neutral w/only a little hesitation. Being very gentle, I >> could drive the car up to about 2K rpms, but the moment I pushed the >> pedal a little more, it acted like it was instantly dying. >> >> I drove about a little on side streets hoping that warming it up would >> help a bit. I was able to get the rpms a little higher (on a level or >> going down hill), but the problem of no power and choking when the >> pedal was pushed persisted. >> >> This morning it would not start. It would catch a moment and I could >> feel it was very rough and then die. >> >> Cap, rotor, and plugs were new this spring; plug wires replaced in >> last 8 years and seem good (not tested). Didn't see or feel any loose >> wires when I looked at it last night. >> >> I have no heat or lights in the garage (at least I have that) and so >> working on it is a bear in this weather. >> >> Looking for thoughts on what I should check first or what it may be. >> >> TIA >> >> Clarence >> West Bend, WI >> >> >> Search the >> ARCHIVES:http://www.mail-archive.com/[email protected] >> >> >> __________________________________________________________________________ >> >> In memory of Michel Potheau - friend, enthusiast, founder of the BMW CCA. >> >> UUC Motorwerks - BMW Performance Fine-tuning and home of the Ultimate >> Short Shifter - accept no substitutes! >> 908-874-9092 . http://www.uucmotorwerks.com >> >> > > ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 7 Dec 2005 10:06:37 -0800 (PST) From: Mr <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: [EMAIL PROTECTED], [email protected] Subject: Changing flex disc (e36) Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> The Bently makes is sound pretty easy to do this. Can you all give me your experiences with changing this part out? Is there a way to do it withough having to remove the exhaust manifold? How can I check the center support bearing to make sure it's still ok? Thanks in advance!! Manuel Paredes 95 325i L.A. BMWCCA __________________________________________ Yahoo! DSL Something to write home about. Just $16.99/mo. or less. dsl.yahoo.com ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 7 Dec 2005 10:50:31 -0800 From: "Marco Romani" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: <[email protected]> Subject: Re: Changing flex disc (e36) Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> I can't imagine why you'd need to remove the exhaust manifold. You do need to drop the exhaust cat and center section, but the manifold can stay on the car. Marco -----Original Message----- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Behalf Of Mr Sent: Wednesday, December 07, 2005 10:07 AM To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]; [email protected] Subject: [UUC] Changing flex disc (e36) The Bently makes is sound pretty easy to do this. Can you all give me your experiences with changing this part out? Is there a way to do it withough having to remove the exhaust manifold? How can I check the center support bearing to make sure it's still ok? Thanks in advance!! Manuel Paredes 95 325i L.A. BMWCCA __________________________________________ Yahoo! DSL Something to write home about. Just $16.99/mo. or less. dsl.yahoo.com Search the ARCHIVES:http://www.mail-archive.com/[email protected] __________________________________________________________________________ In memory of Michel Potheau - friend, enthusiast, founder of the BMW CCA. UUC Motorwerks - BMW Performance Fine-tuning and home of the Ultimate Short Shifter - accept no substitutes! 908-874-9092 . http://www.uucmotorwerks.com ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 7 Dec 2005 13:21:29 -0600 From: Jamie Howton <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: [email protected] Subject: Re: Changing flex disc (e36) Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> > I can't imagine why you'd need to remove the exhaust manifold. You do need > to drop the exhaust cat and center section, but the manifold can stay on the > car. Marco's experiences mirror my own. There's no need to remove the exhaust manifold but you do need to remove the catalytic converter and cat-back sections of your exhaust. I don't know how you would check the center support bearing, maybe see how much play it has. -- Jamie Howton 2000 M5 1995 M3 Hampshire, IL ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 7 Dec 2005 17:02:35 -0500 From: "Doug Foster" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: <[email protected]> Subject: <E34> CEL blinks but get a 0000 code Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Car is a 94 E34 540iA, with 147,000 mi. The past two days I've been getting a blinking CEL, usually it seems to come on, blink sporadically, and then goes away. It never stays on long. I just tried a stomp test, but couldn't get that to work, so I did the code display on the dash. All I got was a "CODE. NR 0000" It seems to happen when warm, once when going downhill with my foot on the brakes. Again when coming to a stop at a light. But also when hitting some bumps. I was thinking that a sensor wire might be loose and throwing the CEL. But with no code, could it just be a loose wire at the CEL itself? I'm not sure what to check without a code, but to be honest, I've never gotten a stomp test to work for me. But I assume the code check showing me a 0000 is enough. Any suggestions on what to do next? The car is running fine, so should I just ignore it? TIA, Doug ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 07 Dec 2005 22:15:09 -0500 From: "Marc Plante" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: [email protected] Subject: Oiling ITG Filter? Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Finally got an ITG filter for my E36, which came equipped with an ECIS when my wife bought it. I have a can of K&N filter oil. Is that OK for the ITG foam filter? If not does anyone have a recommended source for the right Oil? Thanks Marc Plante 1997 E36 M3/4 Vienna, VA ------------------------------ End of [bmwuucdigest] digest(8 messages) **********
