The BMW UUC Digest 
Volume 2 : Issue 874 : "text" Format

Messages in this Issue:
  Re: Replacing E36 ignition cylinder
  Re: Replacing E36 ignition cylinder
  Re: [bmwuucdigest] Warped rotors  e36
  Re: [bmwuucdigest] Warped rotors  e36
  Re: [bmwuucdigest] Warped rotors  e36
  Re: [bmwuucdigest] Warped rotors  e36
  Re: [bmwuucdigest] Warped rotors  e36
  Re: Warped rotors  e36
  Need OBD1 Code reader in FL
  Re: wheel cleaner
  <E36> what's it all mean
  Re: <E36> what's it all mean
  Re: <E36> what's it all mean
  Re: <E36> what's it all mean
  Cheap camber for E46 M3?

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Date: Mon, 21 Nov 2005 18:34:56 -0500
From: KMS- Brett Anderson <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: uuc Digest <[email protected]>
Subject: Re: Replacing E36 ignition cylinder
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>

Yes, although it also has a handle so you can rotate it once inserted.

Practice on your new one before trying to remove the old one.  This is 
on of those jobs that can be 30 seconds or 45 agonizing minutes.

If your current cylinder is permanently freewheeling, you can't get it 
out with the tool, you'll need to buy the steering lock assembly and 
replace both.

Brett Anderson
KMS-Koala Motorsport
www.bmwdiffs.com
9988 Kinsman Rd
Novelty, OH 44072
(Near Cleveland)



Dave Thomas wrote:

 > I just ordered a new ignition lock cylinder for our '95 M3 and have a
 > question about the tool used to remove it. It looks like a stiff wire
 > with a slight bend on the end...is that all it is?


------------------------------

Date: Tue, 22 Nov 2005 08:09:40 -0600
From: "Malcolm Reitz" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[email protected]>
Subject: Re: Replacing E36 ignition cylinder
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>

I think I was in the "45 agonizing minutes" camp. Brett is right;
practice on the new one. It is crucial to get the key to the proper
position. You also need a really stiff piece of wire; a paper clip won't
work :-)

Malcolm

-----Original Message-----
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of KMS- Brett
Anderson
Sent: Monday, November 21, 2005 5:35 PM
To: uuc Digest
Subject: Re: [UUC] Replacing E36 ignition cylinder

Yes, although it also has a handle so you can rotate it once inserted.

Practice on your new one before trying to remove the old one.  This is 
on of those jobs that can be 30 seconds or 45 agonizing minutes.

If your current cylinder is permanently freewheeling, you can't get it 
out with the tool, you'll need to buy the steering lock assembly and 
replace both.

Brett Anderson
KMS-Koala Motorsport
www.bmwdiffs.com
9988 Kinsman Rd
Novelty, OH 44072
(Near Cleveland)



Dave Thomas wrote:

 > I just ordered a new ignition lock cylinder for our '95 M3 and have a
 > question about the tool used to remove it. It looks like a stiff wire
 > with a slight bend on the end...is that all it is?

Search the
ARCHIVES:http://www.mail-archive.com/[email protected]


________________________________________________________________________
__
In memory of Michel Potheau - friend, enthusiast, founder of the BMW
CCA.

UUC Motorwerks - BMW Performance Fine-tuning and home of the Ultimate
Short Shifter - accept no substitutes!
908-874-9092 . http://www.uucmotorwerks.com
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------------------------------

Date: Mon, 21 Nov 2005 22:46:17 -0600
From: "Dave Swingle" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[email protected]>
Subject: Re: [bmwuucdigest] Warped rotors  e36
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>

I'll have to second that - I have a set of the Akebono/Satisfied on my 99M3
that I got from Rob to try about a year ago - perfect street pads IMO, no
dust, no noise, no deposits. I have the PBRs on my wife's E39 and while they
are clean and work OK (it's probably not driven hard enough to overheat and
deposit) they squeak like banshees and I'll bet they are not lasting as
long.

Dave Swingle

----- Original Message ----- 
From: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[email protected]>
Sent: Monday, November 21, 2005 3:56 PM
Subject: [bmwuucdigest] digest(15 messages)



Date: Mon, 21 Nov 2005 14:12:05 -0500
From: "Rob Levinson * UUC Motorwerks" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[email protected]>
Subject: Re: Warped rotors  e36
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>

You're probably not warping the rotors at all... my money is on melted pad
deposit.  If you're feeling a shimmy that seems like warped rotors with a
modern BMW, 99.9% of the time it's melted pad deposit.

The PBR pads are your problem.

You need a pad with a higher heat range.  For street use, I would recommend
the Akebono Ceramic or Hawk Performance Ceramic.  You won't get pad deposit
from either of these, and as a side-benefit they have very low dust.

New pads should remove the deposit, so you don't even need new rotors right
away.   A couple of days and your shimmy should be gone.

- Rob


------------------------------

Date: Mon, 21 Nov 2005 22:09:58 -0800
From: Dave Thomas <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: [email protected]
Subject: Re: [bmwuucdigest] Warped rotors  e36
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>

Dave Swingle wrote:

>I'll have to second that - I have a set of the Akebono/Satisfied on my 99M3
>that I got from Rob to try about a year ago - perfect street pads IMO, no
>dust, no noise, no deposits. 
>

I'll third that. And I would also like to thank "Green Stuffs" for 
teaching me all about how bad a brake pad can leave deposits and just 
suck in general.... ;-)

I have a set of Akebono Ceramics on my E30 and they are by a far margin 
the best street pads I have used on it. Great pads. Damn near zero dust 
with good cold bite that just gets better when they get hot. Gonna get a 
set for the E36 M3 pretty soon....the OEM pads a just dust city....

I had the Axxis Ultimate Ceramics on the E30 before the Akebono's and 
they were not as good. Similar in feel but they would squeal a bit and 
made quite a lot of dust. About 4-5 times more than the Akebonos. I 
consider the Ultimates a good street pad...but the Akebono's are better IMO.

BTW: Anyone ever use the official Porsche wheel cleaner? Got some free 
from Pelican Parts and it worked so well that I bought a big bottle of 
it. Cleans the heck out of the wheels but wont eat the finish, the 
instructions say you can leave it on for 30 minutes. Give some a try. 
Its not cheap but it really works well. 1000ml runs $21.50. I had a 
100ml bottle as a sample and it was enough for two cleanings of all four 
wheels.

Dave T.

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 22 Nov 2005 09:18:15 -0500
From: "Gary Derian" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: "Dave Swingle" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>, <[email protected]>
Subject: Re: [bmwuucdigest] Warped rotors  e36
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>

This pad info is interesting.  My wife's 525iT consumed its original pads 
and rotors in about 30,000 dusty miles (22,000 by the PO).

The replacement PBR Deluxe pads went 80,000 and the rotors (Balo?) are still 
good.  Beautifully low dust but very squeaky until I bought brake pad shims 
from Pep Boys and applied them.

I just installed Akebono Pro-Act pads and am expecting the same low dust 
performance.  They came with very nicely made pad shims.

Gary Derian


> I'll have to second that - I have a set of the Akebono/Satisfied on my 
> 99M3
> that I got from Rob to try about a year ago - perfect street pads IMO, no
> dust, no noise, no deposits. I have the PBRs on my wife's E39 and while 
> they
> are clean and work OK (it's probably not driven hard enough to overheat 
> and
> deposit) they squeak like banshees and I'll bet they are not lasting as
> long.
>
> Dave Swingle
>
> You're probably not warping the rotors at all... my money is on melted pad
> deposit.  If you're feeling a shimmy that seems like warped rotors with a
> modern BMW, 99.9% of the time it's melted pad deposit.
>
> The PBR pads are your problem.
>
> You need a pad with a higher heat range.  For street use, I would 
> recommend
> the Akebono Ceramic or Hawk Performance Ceramic.  You won't get pad 
> deposit
> from either of these, and as a side-benefit they have very low dust.
>
> New pads should remove the deposit, so you don't even need new rotors 
> right
> away.   A couple of days and your shimmy should be gone.
>
> - Rob
>
.com 


------------------------------

Date: Tue, 22 Nov 2005 11:23:37 -0500
From: "[EMAIL PROTECTED]" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED], [email protected]
Subject: Re: [bmwuucdigest] Warped rotors  e36
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>

I'm going to be swapping on the snow tires shortly and will do a brake
inspection at that time. She's run the car probably 9000 miles since
installation so I should be able to get an idea of the wear
characteristics. My beef with the PBRs is that they didn't come with any
shims so I re-used the old ones. They are not squeaking now that its cold
out here, but if it comes back I'll get some shims. 

BTW - the front brakes on the (2002) 530 are the same as the 540, bigger
than those used on the 525/528. I would not be surprised if the tourings
use the bigger brakes though. 

The Akebonos are slightly dirtier than the PBRs, but if you wash the car
weekly/biweekly you'll never notice it. 

Dave S

Original Message:
-----------------
From: Gary Derian [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Date: Tue, 22 Nov 2005 09:18:15 -0500
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED], [email protected]
Subject: Re: [UUC]  [bmwuucdigest] Warped rotors  e36


This pad info is interesting.  My wife's 525iT consumed its original pads 
and rotors in about 30,000 dusty miles (22,000 by the PO).

The replacement PBR Deluxe pads went 80,000 and the rotors (Balo?) are
still 
good.  Beautifully low dust but very squeaky until I bought brake pad shims 
from Pep Boys and applied them.

I just installed Akebono Pro-Act pads and am expecting the same low dust 
performance.  They came with very nicely made pad shims.

Gary Derian


> I'll have to second that - I have a set of the Akebono/Satisfied on my 
> 99M3
> that I got from Rob to try about a year ago - perfect street pads IMO, no
> dust, no noise, no deposits. I have the PBRs on my wife's E39 and while 
> they
> are clean and work OK (it's probably not driven hard enough to overheat 
> and
> deposit) they squeak like banshees and I'll bet they are not lasting as
> long.
>
> Dave Swingle


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------------------------------

Date: Tue, 22 Nov 2005 11:35:42 -0500
From: "Gary Derian" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>, <[email protected]>
Subject: Re: [bmwuucdigest] Warped rotors  e36
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>

I hope they're not too much dustier.  The car has E38 basketweave wheels 
which are a major pain to clean.  With the PBRs the dust was invisible on 
the wheels.

Gary Derian

The Akebonos are slightly dirtier than the PBRs, but if you wash the car
weekly/biweekly you'll never notice it.

Dave S



------------------------------

Date: Tue, 22 Nov 2005 00:21:09 -0800 (PST)
From: "Ryan Simmons" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: "Mr" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Cc: [email protected]
Subject: Re: Warped rotors  e36
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>

To reduce pad deposit, I just take my foot off the brake when I am at a
stop, or when I have braked hard and came to a stop.  That way you are not
transfering material to the rotor.  Deposits from the pads are much more
common with the cheaper PBR pads or something similar in quality.
Ryan-

> I keep warping my rotors just on street use and need
> to replace them again (3rd set).  I do commute to work
> so they do see lots of stop and go but nothing out of
> the ordinary.  I'm using factory rotors with PBR pads.
>  I'm thinking of going with slotted or cross drilled
> rotors next to help avoid warping.  Any comments as to
> which would help prevent warping best? TIA!
>
> Manuel Paredes
> 95 325i
> L.A. BMWCCA
>
>
>
> __________________________________
> Yahoo! FareChase: Search multiple travel sites in one click.
> http://farechase.yahoo.com
> Search the ARCHIVES:http://www.mail-archive.com/[email protected]
>
>
> __________________________________________________________________________
> In memory of Michel Potheau - friend, enthusiast, founder of the BMW CCA.
>
> UUC Motorwerks - BMW Performance Fine-tuning and home of the Ultimate
> Short Shifter - accept no substitutes!
> 908-874-9092 . http://www.uucmotorwerks.com
>


------------------------------

Date: Mon, 21 Nov 2005 23:01:22 -0500
From: Kevin Henry <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[email protected]>
Subject: Need OBD1 Code reader in FL
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>

Anyone in the Orlando/Daytona Beach area of FL?  I'm down here on vacation and 
the E36 just reset the CEL.  I want to confirm that it's just the stupid 
emissions air pump again (even though I replaced it on Friday) before I go to 
drive back to DC.

Thanks
Kevin
'97 328is, 900 miles from my Peake R5 in Deland FL


------------------------------

Date: Tue, 22 Nov 2005 07:29:30 -0500
From: "Marc Plante" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: [email protected]
Subject: Re: wheel cleaner
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>

I get great results with the Orange cleaner that you get in jugs at Home Depot. 
  It provides similar results to Simple Green without those "non-toxic" toxic 
fumes that Simple Green has.  The stuff also cleans the hell out of my Wolf 
cooktop.

Marc Plante
1997 E36 M3/4 67k
Vienna, VA


------------------------------

Date: Tue, 22 Nov 2005 10:52:52 -0800
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: [email protected]
Subject: <E36> what's it all mean
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>


I've seen the designation E36/5 applied to 318's. What does the 5
designate?

-Kevin



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------------------------------

Date: Tue, 22 Nov 2005 11:01:05 -0800 (PST)
From: "Jim Bassett" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: [email protected]
Subject: Re: <E36> what's it all mean
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>

On Tue, November 22, 2005 10:52 am, [EMAIL PROTECTED] said:
>
> I've seen the designation E36/5 applied to 318's. What does the 5
> designate?

I believe that is is a "submodel" designation, in this case denoting the
318ti.

See:
http://www.turnermotorsport.com/html/e_code.shtml
for one "decoder ring" example.

Cheers,
Jim Bassett


------------------------------

Date: Tue, 22 Nov 2005 11:48:34 -0800
From: Kazuto Okayasu <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: [email protected]
Subject: Re: <E36> what's it all mean
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>

At 10:52 AM 11/22/2005, [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:

It's a sub-designation for different body variants.

E36/5 = ti
E36/7 = Z3 roadster
E36/8 = Z3 coupe
E46/3 = wagon

I don't think the number holds any particular significance, since on 
the E46, for example, the sedan was the first body introduced, but it's E46/4.

I believe BMW has quit using this, and has gone to separate 
Entwicklung codes for each bodystyle:

E65 7er SWB
E66 7er LWB
E60 5er
E61 5er wagon


>I've seen the designation E36/5 applied to 318's. What does the 5
>designate?
>
>-Kevin
>
>
>
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>  the  contents of this communication to others. Please notify the
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>  it. Thank you.
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>
>
>
>
>Search the ARCHIVES:http://www.mail-archive.com/[email protected]
>
>
>__________________________________________________________________________
>In memory of Michel Potheau - friend, enthusiast, founder of the BMW CCA.
>
>UUC Motorwerks - BMW Performance Fine-tuning and home of the Ultimate
>Short Shifter - accept no substitutes!
>908-874-9092 . http://www.uucmotorwerks.com

Kazuto Okayasu  Manager, Desktop Support Services
Administrative Computing Services, University of California, Irvine
[EMAIL PROTECTED]


------------------------------

Date: Tue, 22 Nov 2005 11:39:25 -0800
From: "Bob Sutterfield" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[email protected]>
Subject: Re: <E36> what's it all mean
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>

In days of yore, the E24 designation carried through a radical chassis
change, from E12-like to E28-like.

In the middle times, the E36 designation had sub-designations like E36/5
for the Compact (ti), E36/7 for Z3 roadsters, and E36/8 for Z3 coupes.
I don't know the sub-designations for E36 cabrio, sedan, and coupe.  To
be even more specific, the ///M Roadster is "E36/7S" and the ///M Coupe
is "E36/8S" though there's no distinction for S52 vs. S54.  AFAIK
there's no "S" suffix distinction for E36 ///M3 coupes, sedans, and
cabrios.  

Lately, they've created complete new E-code designations for seemingly
minor chassis variants, like E65 for normal wheelbase Sevens and E66 for
long Sevens.  We're told E90 covers only the Three sedan, and there will
be other E-codes for coupe, cabrio, Touring, and Compact.  I wouldn't be
surprised if the ///M variants had their own E codes too.


------------------------------

Date: Tue, 22 Nov 2005 12:37:55 -0800 (PST)
From: Carlos Lopez <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: [email protected]
Subject: Cheap camber for E46 M3?
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>

Gruppe,

Is there some trick to increase negative camber up front on an E46 M3?

Rotating the hats, shimming the struts, anything like the E36 tricks?

Carlos.


        
                
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