The BMW UUC Digest Volume 3 : Issue 18 : "text" Format Messages in this Issue: Re: Harbor Freight cordless impact wrench <E34> rear-end noise? Re: <E34> rear-end noise? Re: <E34> rear-end noise? 90 525iA blower motor (IHCA) Re: 90 525iA blower motor (IHCA) Re: 90 525iA blower motor (IHCA) Re: Harbor Freight cordless impact wrench Re: Harbor Freight wrench...is 24V E30, spark and fuel...no start Re: E30, spark and fuel...no start Re: E30, spark and fuel...no start Re: E30, spark and fuel...no start Re: E30, spark and fuel...no start trailer tires for sale
---------------------------------------------------------------------- Date: Sun, 1 Jan 2006 22:47:26 -0500 From: "marshall lytle" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: "'Marc Plante'" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>, <[email protected]> Subject: Re: Harbor Freight cordless impact wrench Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Not sure which one you have, but we had one of those cheaper hf impact wrenches (<$100). Lasted about one summer season of race weekends before the internals disintegrated. We got one of the new 19v "good" hf impact wrenches to replace it (>$100). It has lasted two full years of servicing (and building) two race cars. It has taken a ton of abuse (dropped, used in rain, etc.) and It keeps coming back for more. It all depends on which hf wrench you get..... -----Original Message----- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Marc Plante Sent: Sunday, January 01, 2006 8:24 PM To: [email protected] Subject: [UUC] Harbor Freight cordless impact wrench Just wanted to give a report after using mine for the first time to swap out the snow tires. It works wonderfully...zipped off the lugnuts with no effort at all, though I torque my own lugnuts, so there wasn't a lot of effort involved. it also has nicely controllable variable speed when re-tightening so you can use it it put the lugnuts back in. I know everyone says the HF stuff is C$&#p, but I've had good luck with my jack (when used with proper consideration) and the impact tool is an absolute gem at a price of $69.99. YMMV of course, but for casual track and occasional Snow tire and brake work, it's a great time saver over the breaker bar-drill combination. Marc Plante E36 M3/4 68k Vienna, VA Search the ARCHIVES:http://www.mail-archive.com/[email protected] __________________________________________________________________________ In memory of Michel Potheau - friend, enthusiast, founder of the BMW CCA. UUC Motorwerks - BMW Performance Fine-tuning and home of the Ultimate Short Shifter - accept no substitutes! 908-874-9092 . http://www.uucmotorwerks.com ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 1 Jan 2006 09:18:42 -0800 From: Kurt Zimmerman <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: UUC Digest <[email protected]> Subject: <E34> rear-end noise? Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> My wife's '89 535i 5-spd has started to make an odd noise on acceleration. It sounds like a quick ba-da-dump (yeah like a deep rim shot). If I take off slowly, and try not to put a lot of load on the drive train, it won't make the sound. But in normal driving mode it is starting to happen most every time we leave a stop light or turn a corner (in either direction). The noise happens once per acceleration and seems to occur before the car reaches 30 mph. The noise also seems to be slightly louder if there are passengers in the car. It may be psychological, but when I hear the noise, there seems to be a corresponding shiver through the car. What do you think? Could this be something that could unexpectedly strand her? Thanks and Happy New Year. Kurt ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 2 Jan 2006 11:25:13 -0500 From: "Gary Derian" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: "Kurt Zimmerman" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>, "UUC Digest" <[email protected]> Subject: Re: <E34> rear-end noise? Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Probably broken bushings in the rear suspension, subframe to body or diff to subframe, more likely the former. Gary Derian > My wife's '89 535i 5-spd has started to make an odd noise on > acceleration. It sounds like a quick ba-da-dump (yeah like a deep rim > shot). If I take off slowly, and try not to put a lot of load on > the drive train, it won't make the sound. But in normal driving mode > it is starting to happen most every time we leave a stop light or turn > a corner (in either direction). The noise happens once per > acceleration and seems to occur before the car reaches 30 mph. The > noise also seems to be slightly louder if there are passengers in the > car. > > It may be psychological, but when I hear the noise, there seems to be > a corresponding shiver through the car. > > What do you think? Could this be something that could unexpectedly strand > her? > > Thanks and Happy New Year. > > Kurt > > Search the ARCHIVES:http://www.mail-archive.com/[email protected] > > > __________________________________________________________________________ > In memory of Michel Potheau - friend, enthusiast, founder of the BMW CCA. > > UUC Motorwerks - BMW Performance Fine-tuning and home of the Ultimate > Short Shifter - accept no substitutes! > 908-874-9092 . http://www.uucmotorwerks.com > ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 2 Jan 2006 13:50:11 -0800 From: Kurt Zimmerman <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: UUC Digest <[email protected]> Subject: Re: <E34> rear-end noise? Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Thanks to all those who made suggestions. I'll start checking those items: Center bearing is only 1.5 years old, but I could have a bad one. The rear bushings have 100k miles on them so that is a real possibliity. Fortunately, nobody has suggested anything that is going to fail catastrophically. Kurt On 1/1/06, Kurt Zimmerman <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote: > My wife's '89 535i 5-spd has started to make an odd noise on > acceleration. It sounds like a quick ba-da-dump (yeah like a deep rim > shot). If I take off slowly, and try not to put a lot of load on > the drive train, it won't make the sound. But in normal driving mode > it is starting to happen most every time we leave a stop light or turn > a corner (in either direction). The noise happens once per > acceleration and seems to occur before the car reaches 30 mph. The > noise also seems to be slightly louder if there are passengers in the > car. > > It may be psychological, but when I hear the noise, there seems to be > a corresponding shiver through the car. > > What do you think? Could this be something that could unexpectedly strand > her? > > Thanks and Happy New Year. > > Kurt > ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 2 Jan 2006 09:28:53 -0500 From: "Beaudette, Roland SIKORSKY" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: "UUC (E-mail)" <[email protected]> Subject: 90 525iA blower motor (IHCA) Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> My blower motor, after squealing pitifully for several months, no longer operates. I jumpered the power directly with no results. It seemed to me from checking the Bentley that the blower fuse is shared with some other component and those components were working. If all of that is correct, I believe the blower is shot. I had attempted to R&R the blower before but was halted by the wipers. The nut holding the arm to the wiper assembly did not come free easily with a 1/2 inch drive and appropriate socket. I was concerned that damage could occur if I forced the issue. So now it's 40 deg For so outside and I need to revisit the issue. Is heat an option with the wiper arm? Am I right to be concerned about the wiper assembly? Maybe an impact wrench? I'll be happy to try some penetrating oil, but honestly, I've never had success. And the cold temps will impeded the oil's efficacy. Cheers, Roland ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 02 Jan 2006 10:06:51 -0500 From: KMS- Brett Anderson <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: UUC Digest <[email protected]> Subject: Re: 90 525iA blower motor (IHCA) Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> It's been a while, but if I remember it right, you don't need to remove the wiper transmission to change the blower motor. In fact, I think you have to remove the blower motor to get the wiper transmission out. You need to remove the recirculation flaps and housings from each side of the blower motor to get more clearance and the blower will come out. Brett Anderson KMS Beaudette, Roland SIKORSKY wrote: > My blower motor, after squealing pitifully for several months, no longer > operates. I jumpered the power directly with no results. It seemed to me > from checking the Bentley that the blower fuse is shared with some other > component and those components were working. If all of that is correct, I > believe the blower is shot. > > I had attempted to R&R the blower before but was halted by the wipers. The > nut holding the arm to the wiper assembly did not come free easily with a > 1/2 inch drive and appropriate socket. I was concerned that damage could > occur if I forced the issue. So now it's 40 deg For so outside and I need > to revisit the issue. Is heat an option with the wiper arm? Am I right to > be concerned about the wiper assembly? Maybe an impact wrench? > > I'll be happy to try some penetrating oil, but honestly, I've never had > success. And the cold temps will impeded the oil's efficacy. ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 2 Jan 2006 09:50:49 -0500 From: "Racing King" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: "UUC \(E-mail\)" <[email protected]> Subject: Re: 90 525iA blower motor (IHCA) Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> You do not need to pull the wiper to change the blower motor on the E34, I changed many of them and I never had to touch the wiper mechanisme. Check the bentley, You need to remove the firewall cover, you need to pull the wire that moves the flaps on each side then you need to pull the little clips at the bottom of the black cover and the plastic strap on top. Remove the cover and the shield then the blower is right there. I have yet to make the procedure in the website. Bruno Webmaster of the BMW E34 Website: www.bmwe34.net ----- Original Message ----- From: "Beaudette, Roland SIKORSKY" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: "UUC (E-mail)" <[email protected]> Sent: Monday, January 02, 2006 9:28 AM Subject: [UUC] 90 525iA blower motor (IHCA) > My blower motor, after squealing pitifully for several months, no longer > operates. I jumpered the power directly with no results. It seemed to me > from checking the Bentley that the blower fuse is shared with some other > component and those components were working. If all of that is correct, I > believe the blower is shot. > > I had attempted to R&R the blower before but was halted by the wipers. > The > nut holding the arm to the wiper assembly did not come free easily with a > 1/2 inch drive and appropriate socket. I was concerned that damage could > occur if I forced the issue. So now it's 40 deg For so outside and I need > to revisit the issue. Is heat an option with the wiper arm? Am I right > to > be concerned about the wiper assembly? Maybe an impact wrench? > > I'll be happy to try some penetrating oil, but honestly, I've never had > success. And the cold temps will impeded the oil's efficacy. > > Cheers, > > Roland > Search the ARCHIVES:http://www.mail-archive.com/[email protected] > > > __________________________________________________________________________ > In memory of Michel Potheau - friend, enthusiast, founder of the BMW CCA. > > UUC Motorwerks - BMW Performance Fine-tuning and home of the Ultimate > Short Shifter - accept no substitutes! > 908-874-9092 . http://www.uucmotorwerks.com > > ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 02 Jan 2006 08:52:08 -0500 From: Neil Maller <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: "[email protected]" <[email protected]> Subject: Re: Harbor Freight cordless impact wrench Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> on 1/1/06 8:52 PM, "Marc Plante" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote: > the impact tool is an absolute gem at a price of $69.99. You might want to clarify which of the various HF impact guns you're recommending. Since HF is always changing their sale prices, even the price you paid isn't a good identifier. If it's this 24V model: <http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/Displayitem.taf?itemnumber=92907> I've used a friend's and it's very effective. Neil Fort Wayne, IN 96 M3 - Bastard child 03 525iT - Sterling Grey Metallic 77 MGB - Original owner, need to sell 05 Mini - Cooper S with LSD! ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 2 Jan 2006 11:50:21 -0500 From: "Marc Plante" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: <[email protected]> Subject: Re: Harbor Freight wrench...is 24V Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Neil has the link below. I have the 24V version that lists for $79, and actually doesn't come up on a search for "Cordless Impact at the site." I used that search term yesterday to derive a quick link to the wrong tool. I believe this tool was on sale for $20 cheaper or so just before Christmas, which put it on Santa's radar. That price also led to the confusion with the 18V version, which currently sells for $69. There is also a 19.2V version that sells for $159, which is what Marshall indicated has lasted him a couple seasons of race weekend use. Sorry about the confusion. Still a bit sleep deprived these days. Marc Original Message: If it's this 24V model: <http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/Displayitem.taf?itemnumber=92907> I've used a friend's and it's very effective. ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 02 Jan 2006 17:43:16 +0000 From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] (Peter Harkonen) To: [email protected] Subject: E30, spark and fuel...no start Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Problem is really that the car will appear to start and run for half a second, at most, and then die...then it will only crank and crank with the faintest utterance of a stumble and partial combustion. There is fuel( the plugs get wet), and there is spark( strong and white), and it will not start. I thought about the chance of the timing belt being old and having skipped a tooth sending physical timing out of whack, so I checked the cap and rotor, and found evidence of misfiring within the cap. This is what brought me to spend new years day changing my timing belt and water pump. I discovered two problems when doing the swap out. First was the crank bolt that is usually torqued to 302 flb.s, was really torqed to 3+0+2=5 flbs, it came loose with a two foot breaker bar as i was trying to align the timing marks, won't go into how i got it tight but it is. Second thing wrong was the timing belt tensioner had the tensioner spring and guide bolt (bullet shaped thing) in BACKwards! There was soo little tension on the belt that I could turn the tesioner pully in my hand with the belt in place! The belt was very slack between each sprocket and luckily it hadn't jumped a tooth or broken yet. Want to know who did this shoddy ass work? I have a service record from the P/O who had the timing belt done @ Bimmer's Only, in Mercerville, New Jersey @ 138,000 miles four years ago. Some guy named Adolf from the caribbean was the mech. for this P/O. Unbelievable. Back to paragraph one, any ideas on what causes a no start/no run when evidence of spark and fuel are present? Thanks, Pete Harkonen 1990 325i 5spd. ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 02 Jan 2006 12:42:41 -0600 From: Clarence <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: Peter Harkonen <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Cc: [email protected] Subject: Re: E30, spark and fuel...no start Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> So the same problem exhibited itself before and after the timing belt change? Maybe fortunate a problem happened or you may have toasted your engine given what you found. I would inspect the wires and connections to the AFM as well as the connection under the throttle body. A few times I had the airbox and AFM out but forgot to reconnect the wires; it cranked and started but died immediately. Also, the connection under the TB can sometimes get contaminated w/oil; make sure it's clean. Clarence West Bend, WI Peter Harkonen wrote: > Problem is really that the car will appear to start and run for half a > second, at most, and then die...then it will only crank and crank with the > faintest utterance of a stumble and partial combustion. There is fuel( the > plugs get wet), and there is spark( strong and white), and it will not start. > > I thought about the chance of the timing belt being old and having skipped a > tooth sending physical timing out of whack, so I checked the cap and rotor, > and found evidence of misfiring within the cap. This is what brought me to > spend new years day changing my timing belt and water pump. I discovered two > problems when doing the swap out. First was the crank bolt that is usually > torqued to 302 flb.s, was really torqed to 3+0+2=5 flbs, it came loose with > a two foot breaker bar as i was trying to align the timing marks, won't go > into how i got it tight but it is. Second thing wrong was the timing belt > tensioner had the tensioner spring and guide bolt (bullet shaped thing) in > BACKwards! > There was soo little tension on the belt that I could turn the tesioner pully > in my hand with the belt in place! The belt was very slack between each > sprocket and luckily it hadn't jumped a tooth or broken yet. Want to know > who did this shoddy ass work? > > I have a service record from the P/O who had the timing belt done @ Bimmer's > Only, in Mercerville, New Jersey @ 138,000 miles four years ago. Some guy > named Adolf from the caribbean was the mech. for this P/O. Unbelievable. > > Back to paragraph one, any ideas on what causes a no start/no run when > evidence of spark and fuel are present? > > Thanks, > > Pete Harkonen > 1990 325i 5spd. ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 2 Jan 2006 10:31:14 -0800 (PST) From: Richard Dorffer <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: [email protected] Subject: Re: E30, spark and fuel...no start Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> --- Peter Harkonen <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote: > Second thing wrong was the timing belt tensioner had the tensioner spring and > guide bolt > (bullet shaped thing) in BACKwards! > There was soo little tension on the belt that I could turn the tesioner pully > in my hand with > the belt in place! The belt was very slack between each sprocket and luckily > it hadn't jumped a > tooth or broken yet. Want to know who did this shoddy ass work? > > Back to paragraph one, any ideas on what causes a no start/no run when > evidence of spark and > fuel are present? Sure, no compression. I would check it. Regards, Rich ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 2 Jan 2006 14:47:59 -0500 From: "Gary Derian" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: "Peter Harkonen" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>, <[email protected]> Subject: Re: E30, spark and fuel...no start Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Engines need spark, fuel and compression to run. Fuel is easy, a squirt or two into the intake runners is enough to get an engine to at least start and run for a few seconds. Spark is easy to check but it needs to be there at the right time to be sure. Compression is also easy, remove a plug and crank it over. It will chuff through the plug hole. Gary Derian > > Back to paragraph one, any ideas on what causes a no start/no run when > evidence of spark and fuel are present? > > Thanks, > > Pete Harkonen > 1990 325i 5spd. > Search the ARCHIVES:http://www.mail-archive.com/[email protected] ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 2 Jan 2006 15:21:43 -0500 From: "Andy Messer" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: "'Peter Harkonen'" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>, <[email protected]> Subject: Re: E30, spark and fuel...no start Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Do you know if it continues to give spark more than a few times? Reference sensor could be bad. I believe the ECM kills the spark once it loses timing reference. >Problem is really that the car will appear to start and run for half a >second, at most, and then die...then it will only crank and crank with the >faintest utterance of a stumble and partial combustion. There is fuel( the >plugs get wet), and there is spark( strong and white), and it will not >start. ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 2 Jan 2006 13:00:22 -0800 From: "Kirk" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>, <[email protected]>, <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: trailer tires for sale Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> I have two Goodyear Marathon 225/75/15 load range D trailer tires that were on my spare wheels. They've both been on the ground for short period getting me home. I am looking for $45 each plus shipping or make me an offer. Cheers, Kirk Lachman Sin City Chapter ------------------------------ End of [bmwuucdigest] digest(15 messages) **********
