The BMW UUC Digest Volume 3 : Issue 2 : "text" Format Messages in this Issue: [E36, E34?] Bosch spark plug update <E30> Quest for a 6 cylinder idle Re: <E30> Quest for a 6 cylinder idle Re: <E30> Quest for a 6 cylinder idle Re: Return of the UUC Digest Re: Return of the UUC Digest <E36> Suspension FW: Dinan Chips Re: FW: Dinan Chips Cams/Injectors/HFM for sale E36 95 M3 p/s steering leak Garage cleaning, and, please help me pay for my new differential!(-: [Fwd: E36 Suspension Freshening Questions] [E30] warm idle issues Re: [E30] warm idle issues
---------------------------------------------------------------------- Date: Thu, 15 Dec 2005 12:26:34 -0800 (PST) From: "Jim Bassett" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: [email protected] Subject: [E36, E34?] Bosch spark plug update Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Hi All, Just an FYI, Bosch has updated the spark plug that is the stock plug for the M50 motor, 325is in my case (and I believe the same is used in the '95 M3). The F7LDCR is superceded by the FR7LDC+. My mechanic kept getting sent the latter when he was ordering the former, so I called Bosch USA, and confirmed the change. Basically replacing a copper-electrode plug with a yttrium-electrode one. (FWIW, a similar change occured with the plug for the OBD-II M3 a while back: FGR8KQC to FGR8KQE.) Cheers, Jim Bassett 1998 M3/4 1993 325is #44 JP ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 15 Dec 2005 14:31:34 -0600 From: "Paul Craven" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: <[email protected]> Subject: <E30> Quest for a 6 cylinder idle Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Hi all, I'm glad the digest is back up (many thanks to Mike Donohue!) I am pulling my hair out trying to sort out an idle miss on cylinder one of my 1993 325ic (E30) and could sure use some help. Car has 122k and seems to run fine above 1500rpm. Here's what I know/have checked: 1. Car has a rough idle and will throw a Check Engine light after idling for 30 seconds or so. The CEL goes out if you increase the engine speed above 1500rpm. The stomp test gives the Lambda error. 2. Pulling the plug wire off of cylinder number 1 results in no change at idle, but when the wire is near the plug, the spark can be heard snapping across the gap. 3. I switched the number 1 and 2 plug wires and the miss stayed with cylinder 1. 4. I switched the number 1 and 2 plugs and the miss stayed with cylinder 1. 5. I pulled the injectors and sent them to cruzin performance. They tested OK and Rich Jensen said he saw nothing that would be a problem. In any case they are reworked and re-shuffled so that the number one injector has moved, but the miss is still on number one. 6. Valves on cylinder one are set at .012" cold. 7. Quick compression test gave 155 psi on cylinder 1. Anyone have any ideas where to go from here? I thought distributor cap and rotor, but I seem to have spark. Maybe a leakdown test on cylinder 1? I may also try to build a harness to check the O2 sensor to determine if the Lambda is lean or rich, but that's not easy with the twist connnector on the O2 sensor. Any help is appreciated. Regards, Paul Craven 1993 325ic with Volvo style idle 1999 528it smoove, real smoove ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 15 Dec 2005 15:38:38 -0500 From: "Racing King" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: <[email protected]> Subject: Re: <E30> Quest for a 6 cylinder idle Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> I had the exact same problem on my M20 525i, it was a leak on the intake manifold. You can have a vacuum leak somewhere, I would check all the vacuum hoses, the dip stick O'rings, the oil cap.... you can spray the engine and mainly the intake manifold with starter fluid. If the RPM goes up then you found the vacuum leak. I also had the Engine light coming on and the O2 sensor code. Good luck, keep us posted. Bruno Webmaster of the BMW E34 Website: www.bmwe34.net ----- Original Message ----- From: "Paul Craven" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: <[email protected]> Sent: Thursday, December 15, 2005 3:31 PM Subject: [UUC] <E30> Quest for a 6 cylinder idle > Hi all, > I'm glad the digest is back up (many thanks to Mike Donohue!) I am > pulling my hair out trying to sort out an idle miss on cylinder one of > my 1993 325ic (E30) and could sure use some help. Car has 122k and > seems to run fine above 1500rpm. Here's what I know/have checked: > 1. Car has a rough idle and will throw a Check Engine light after idling > for 30 seconds or so. The CEL goes out if you increase the engine speed > above 1500rpm. The stomp test gives the Lambda error. > 2. Pulling the plug wire off of cylinder number 1 results in no change > at idle, but when the wire is near the plug, the spark can be heard > snapping across the gap. > 3. I switched the number 1 and 2 plug wires and the miss stayed with > cylinder 1. > 4. I switched the number 1 and 2 plugs and the miss stayed with cylinder > 1. > 5. I pulled the injectors and sent them to cruzin performance. They > tested OK and Rich Jensen said he saw nothing that would be a problem. > In any case they are reworked and re-shuffled so that the number one > injector has moved, but the miss is still on number one. > 6. Valves on cylinder one are set at .012" cold. > 7. Quick compression test gave 155 psi on cylinder 1. > > Anyone have any ideas where to go from here? I thought distributor cap > and rotor, but I seem to have spark. Maybe a leakdown test on cylinder > 1? I may also try to build a harness to check the O2 sensor to determine > if the Lambda is lean or rich, but that's not easy with the twist > connnector on the O2 sensor. Any help is appreciated. > > Regards, > Paul Craven > 1993 325ic with Volvo style idle > 1999 528it smoove, real smoove > > > Search the ARCHIVES:http://www.mail-archive.com/[email protected] > > > __________________________________________________________________________ > In memory of Michel Potheau - friend, enthusiast, founder of the BMW CCA. > > UUC Motorwerks - BMW Performance Fine-tuning and home of the Ultimate > Short Shifter - accept no substitutes! > 908-874-9092 . http://www.uucmotorwerks.com > > ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 15 Dec 2005 23:26:32 -0500 From: KMS- Brett Anderson <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: uuc Digest <[email protected]> Subject: Re: <E30> Quest for a 6 cylinder idle Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> What's "The Lambda Error". Is that like a young sheep that shit's itself in public? I'm pretty sure there is no code reader on the planet that will report "The Lambda Error" Compression test at #1 is 155psi? What are the rest of the cylinders. Compression test is a relativity test. One cylinder relative to the next. It's worthless for anything but balance comparison. Leak down tests show real numbers that give real indication of engine conditino. Do a leak down on #1. As already suggested, also do an intake leak check, especially at #1 runner to head connection. Brett Anderson KMS-Koala Motorsport www.bmwdiffs.com (440) 564 7574 9988 Kinsman Rd Novelty, OH 44072 (Near Cleveland) Paul Craven wrote: > Hi all, > I'm glad the digest is back up (many thanks to Mike Donohue!) I am > pulling my hair out trying to sort out an idle miss on cylinder one of > my 1993 325ic (E30) and could sure use some help. Car has 122k and > seems to run fine above 1500rpm. Here's what I know/have checked: > 1. Car has a rough idle and will throw a Check Engine light after idling > for 30 seconds or so. The CEL goes out if you increase the engine speed > above 1500rpm. The stomp test gives the Lambda error. > 2. Pulling the plug wire off of cylinder number 1 results in no change > at idle, but when the wire is near the plug, the spark can be heard > snapping across the gap. > 3. I switched the number 1 and 2 plug wires and the miss stayed with > cylinder 1. > 4. I switched the number 1 and 2 plugs and the miss stayed with cylinder > 1. > 5. I pulled the injectors and sent them to cruzin performance. They > tested OK and Rich Jensen said he saw nothing that would be a problem. > In any case they are reworked and re-shuffled so that the number one > injector has moved, but the miss is still on number one. > 6. Valves on cylinder one are set at .012" cold. > 7. Quick compression test gave 155 psi on cylinder 1. > > Anyone have any ideas where to go from here? I thought distributor cap > and rotor, but I seem to have spark. Maybe a leakdown test on cylinder > 1? I may also try to build a harness to check the O2 sensor to determine > if the Lambda is lean or rich, but that's not easy with the twist > connnector on the O2 sensor. Any help is appreciated. > > Regards, > Paul Craven > 1993 325ic with Volvo style idle > 1999 528it smoove, real smoove > > > Search the ARCHIVES:http://www.mail-archive.com/[email protected] > > > __________________________________________________________________________ > In memory of Michel Potheau - friend, enthusiast, founder of the BMW CCA. > > UUC Motorwerks - BMW Performance Fine-tuning and home of the Ultimate > Short Shifter - accept no substitutes! > 908-874-9092 . http://www.uucmotorwerks.com > ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 15 Dec 2005 12:34:49 -0800 From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: [email protected] Subject: Re: Return of the UUC Digest Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Thanks Mike, My withdrawal symptoms were becoming more noticable. -Kevin ---------------------------------------------------------------- This e-mail communication is confidential and is intended only for the individual(s) or entity named above and others who have been specifically authorized to receive it. If you are not the intended recipient, please do not read, copy, use or disclose the contents of this communication to others. Please notify the sender that you have received this e-mail in error by replying to the e-mail. Please then delete the e-mail and any copies of it. Thank you. ---------------------------------------------------------------- ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 15 Dec 2005 17:58:06 -0500 From: "Marc Plante" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: [email protected] Subject: Re: Return of the UUC Digest Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Thanks Mike. You're a hell of a lot more accontable and responsive than most corporate IT departments. I won't name names. Marc Plante Director, Emerging Products Sprint/Nextel Corporation E36 M3/4 67k Vienna, VA ----- Original Message ----- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: [email protected] Subject: [UUC] Return of the UUC Digest Date: Thu, 15 Dec 2005 12:25:00 -0800 (PST) > > All, > > I appreciate your patience over the last couple of days. We experienced a > worst case catastropic system failure, and had to rebuild from the ground > up. > > The system should be working correctly again. > > Regards, > Mike Donohue > System Administrator > UUCDIGEST.COM > Search the ARCHIVES:http://www.mail-archive.com/[email protected] > > > __________________________________________________________________________ > In memory of Michel Potheau - friend, enthusiast, founder of the BMW CCA. > > UUC Motorwerks - BMW Performance Fine-tuning and home of the Ultimate > Short Shifter - accept no substitutes! > 908-874-9092 . http://www.uucmotorwerks.com ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 15 Dec 2005 13:17:25 -0800 From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: [email protected] Subject: <E36> Suspension Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Well it's done. Over the weekend my son and I put on the H&R's and KoniSA's onto his E36. Thanks for all the pre-advice from the UUC experts. The big time saver was to have the new struts built up before hand with new bearings, snubbers, etc. so they were ready to just put in. The rear shocks were pathetic and could easily be compressed by hand. For future reference to help others: 1) it is necassary to remove the sway bar link and steering arm on the control arm in order to get enough clearance on the top of the hub ball joint to position the struts. 2) Bentley is not clear or it's not even noted, for some torque values so we used values comparable to like attachements.I don't recall them right now. We used some wood blocks and boards to apply leverage under the ball joints to keep them from turning while tightening the nuts. 3) We added (per Ramone's (Bavarian Motorsport) suggestion the upper strut reinforcement plate (a round disk which sits under the strut housing). 4) The rears were another thing altogether but with a panic call to Ramone (thanks Ramone!) we got through it. The rear stock springs can be taken out without removing the half shafts. The secret is to get a pry bar (crow bar in our case) over the top rubber half not under it and pry while someone else uses grabs the fender as leverage and presses down on the rear hub. You need to get the spring/pad just over the nub on the sheet metal. The first one took about 20 minutes the second about 2. 5) We used the Meile RSM's and with the stock washer below and an additional one above didn't have any pulling through of the bushing as noted by a recent posting. 6) Don't forget the paper gaskets for the rear RSM's. We did but with the "upside down reinforcement" plate we will be able to do this quickly, and soon. -Kevin ---------------------------------------------------------------- This e-mail communication is confidential and is intended only for the individual(s) or entity named above and others who have been specifically authorized to receive it. If you are not the intended recipient, please do not read, copy, use or disclose the contents of this communication to others. Please notify the sender that you have received this e-mail in error by replying to the e-mail. Please then delete the e-mail and any copies of it. Thank you. ---------------------------------------------------------------- ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 15 Dec 2005 16:24:17 -0500 From: Neil Maller <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: "[email protected]" <[email protected]> Subject: FW: Dinan Chips Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> on 12/12/05 5:34 PM, P Kroon <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote: > Check out: > http://www.ktrperformance.com/services/dyno_faq.htm > This is a decent discussion there about converting > rwhp to crank hp. One way to estimate crank hp is to > use a strict %, however, the article suggests "A rule > of thumb we use which is quite accurate is to treat > the losses as being 12% of the flywheel power plus 10 > bhp for RWD cars." Interesting, but from an owner's perspective, who cares? It's hp and torque at the driving wheels that make the car go. Since we as owners can't do very much to alter drive-train losses, back-working our dyno results to estimate output at the crank is mostly a "how many angels can-dance on the head of a pin?" exercise. If my latest go-faster bolt-on goody adds 10 measured rear wheel hp, then it doesn't matter whether that corresponds to 11, 12 or even 20 extra hp at the crank. I'm getting 10 hp of benefit, and that's pretty much that. Neil Fort Wayne, IN 96 M3 - Bastard child, a few go-faster bolt-on goodies 03 525iT - Sterling Grey Metallic 77 MGB - Original owner, need to sell 05 Mini - Cooper S with LSD! ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 15 Dec 2005 13:43:46 -0800 (PST) From: P Kroon <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: Neil Maller <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>, "[email protected]" <[email protected]> Subject: Re: FW: Dinan Chips Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Neil At the risk of kicking a dead horse, I completely agree with you that in the end, the only thing that really matters is what you get out of the mod. The relevant question is, however, can you trust what the manufacturer of the latest go-faster bolt-on goody that you are considering spending your money on? If the manufacturer is testing their latest go-faster bolt-on goody and comparing it to a chart from the manufacturer regarding crank hp, then I *submit* that the results are not very reliable. You are comparing numbers generated by two entirely different methods, and as that article I linked to suggests, converting between the two different methods is not cut and dry. Plus, if the crank numbers from BMW are not even acurate to begin with, then the results become COMPLETELY meaningless. However, there is much less ambiguity (and consequently the results are much more reliable), if the manufacturer of the latest go-faster bolt-on goody *tests* the engine before and after using the same method. It is hard to imagine that the manufacturer (in the original case, Dinan*) didn't do this themselves. Why not report it that way?? *This is NOT intended to be a put-down on Dinan, you can insert ANY manufacturer. -Paul 95 M3 98 Panoz 03 G35 --- Neil Maller <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote: > on 12/12/05 5:34 PM, P Kroon <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> > wrote: > > > Check out: > > > http://www.ktrperformance.com/services/dyno_faq.htm > > This is a decent discussion there about converting > > rwhp to crank hp. One way to estimate crank hp is > to > > use a strict %, however, the article suggests "A > rule > > of thumb we use which is quite accurate is to > treat > > the losses as being 12% of the flywheel power plus > 10 > > bhp for RWD cars." > > Interesting, but from an owner's perspective, who > cares? > > It's hp and torque at the driving wheels that make > the car go. Since we as > owners can't do very much to alter drive-train > losses, back-working our dyno > results to estimate output at the crank is mostly a > "how many angels > can-dance on the head of a pin?" exercise. > > If my latest go-faster bolt-on goody adds 10 > measured rear wheel hp, then it > doesn't matter whether that corresponds to 11, 12 or > even 20 extra hp at the > crank. I'm getting 10 hp of benefit, and that's > pretty much that. > > Neil > Fort Wayne, IN > 96 M3 - Bastard child, a few go-faster bolt-on > goodies > 03 525iT - Sterling Grey Metallic > 77 MGB - Original owner, need to sell > 05 Mini - Cooper S with LSD! > > > Search the > ARCHIVES:http://www.mail-archive.com/[email protected] > > > __________________________________________________________________________ > In memory of Michel Potheau - friend, enthusiast, > founder of the BMW CCA. > > UUC Motorwerks - BMW Performance Fine-tuning and > home of the Ultimate > Short Shifter - accept no substitutes! > 908-874-9092 . http://www.uucmotorwerks.com > __________________________________________________ Do You Yahoo!? Tired of spam? Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around http://mail.yahoo.com ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 15 Dec 2005 14:57:15 -0800 From: "Marco Romani" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: "[EMAIL PROTECTED] Com" <[email protected]> Subject: Cams/Injectors/HFM for sale E36 95 M3 Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Everything you see here http://www.turnermotorsport.com/html/detail.asp?PRODUCT_ID=E36M3HFMCAMKIT EXECPT - a)CHIP (mine was custom tuned by JC as a favor so I can't sell it) b)Heat shield. c)Curved bit from the ITG filter. Price $1200+shipping If you use paypal add 3% Came out of my race car. Replaced with some really nutty cams and solid lifters, 30lb injectors. There were 12 race weekends on this equipment. So probably between 50-60 hours total on it. ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 15 Dec 2005 17:34:53 -0600 From: "r.mackrill" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: [email protected] Subject: p/s steering leak Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Did not mean to purposely confuse digesters with my Monday post but further clarification is warranted. The puddle is atf and my theory is that it is seeping from the high side pressure switch which is joined to the power flow regulator, which I assume distributes atf. My question; is a switch of this nature going bad or is bad, is this a likely scenario. There are signs of wetness around the brake bomb, which was recently replaced and tightened on the bench with a strap wrench. My daily driver is an '86 535i, bot new with 268 km. 1 of the best cars I've ever owned. Randy Mackrill (new pressure switch picked up from the dealer) Regina, SK. ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 15 Dec 2005 17:07:33 -0800 From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: "[uucdigest]" <[email protected]> Subject: Garage cleaning, and, please help me pay for my new differential!(-: Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Garage cleaning, and Please help me pay for my new differential!(-: Located in SF Bay Area: E36 //M3 Supersprint fully stainless exhaust. Great for any upgraded 3.0 or 3.2 motor. As high quality as stainless gets, euro M3 pipe diameter with custom stainless couplers mating to US spec cat flanges. Still on car so you can hear it and drive it before you buy. Was $800. new, will sell for $450./obo Wheels: "Motorsport" replica, 17x7.5, mfg by OEM supplier, same as "BMW MOTORSPORT" Lightweight style but cast with the "BMW" letters removed 17x7.5, vg shape with Bridgestone RE750/ 225/45x17, 75% tread, $575. The following sold separately or take all the below for $350. E36 //M3: Original exhaust plus rear shocks, both removed at ~15k miles. Like new condition. A great budget upgrade for any other E36. $200. E36 //M3: stock front swaybar, later style, with bushings and caps, a nice tweak if you have a '95. $55. E36: Radiator, VG cond, 60k miles, $50. plus fan switch, $15. E36: CD changer velour softcover box, $10. E36 2-dr: Front windows (l&r) $75. E36 2-dr: Electric window winder, right side $40. E36: Rear shelf sealed box style OE speaker units, $25. E36: Front right US headlight asembly, $30. fuel injectors: 21.5# OEM injectors, set of 6, $200. 24 # injectors: have 2 (Cobra take-offs), $85. 2002 tii: fuel pump, original and works fine. $100. E30: throttle body, 325i with new boot, great upgrade on any 325e or 528e, $65. E30: front headlight grills, no cracks, $20. each. E30: rear wheel bearing for non-ABS cars, new in box, $45. Wheel spacers: hub-centric for E36, 18mm, 2 spacers with 10 correct length lug bolts. $95. and believe it or not, an 1800tiSA original head, valve cover, and misc gaskets in the original package. A collector's dream. $25. Trades for 8.5" or 9" wheels considered. Contact Barry, [EMAIL PROTECTED], (650) 968-1228 ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 15 Dec 2005 20:14:48 -0500 From: Brian Daley <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: [email protected] Subject: [Fwd: E36 Suspension Freshening Questions] Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> I have a 94 325ic with about 150K miles on it. I'm pretty sure all of the suspension bushings, etc. are original and they're really sloppy at this point. I replaced the springs and shocks/struts about a year ago, so I figure all new bushings should put things back as they should be. My question is this: Which bushings do people typically replace? This car will never see a track, so I'm assuming stock-type rubber bushings are the best option for me. I assume that urethane would only amplify the shakes and rattles that the convertible already suffers from. True? 1) For the front end I'm planning on new control arms (31-12-1-140-957/8) and control arm bushings (31-12-9-059-288). I've also seen control arm part numbers 31-12-6-758-513/514 listed for this application. Which one is correct, or are they interchangeable? I took note of the recent comments that Meyle should be avoided, no matter how tempting the price - there's a reason they're so cheap. Lemforder and Febi control arms seem to be within a buck or two on price, any comments on the quality from these two manufacturers? 2) From what I can tell the other parts that might need replacement in the front suspension are the sway bar bushings (31-35-1-1-090-263), and possibly the end links (31-35-1-091-764). The bushings are cheap enough, so I might as well do them, but what about the end links? They range from $18.00 to about $30 depending on brand and source. Should I replace them, and is should I shop on price or is there likely to be a noticeable difference in performance and/or longevity? 3) For the rear end I assume I need new trailing arm bushings (33-32-1-097-009), and again, the swaybar bushings (33-55-1-131-155) are pretty cheap so I might as well do them. As with the front, should I also replace the swaybar end links (35-55-1-126-932)? 4) Subframe bushings: It looks like there are 5 mounts - 2 60.5mm (33-31-9-059-300), 2 62.5mm (33-31-9-059-301) and one at the front of the subframe (33-17-1-134-910). I assume these all need to be done, right? 5) Differential to subframe mounts: It looks like there's a pair of diff mounts (33-17-1-134-911), that I assume need to be done. 6) Then there are other assorted bushings: inner (33-32-1-092-247) and outer (33-32-1-140-345) upper control arm bushings, inner (33-32-1-092-248) and outer (33-32-1-136-311) lower control arm bushings. Do I need to replace all of these? 7) What special tools are required for the installation? I know that's a lot of questions, thanks for sharing any experience you may have. Brian '94 325ic ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 16 Dec 2005 04:12:05 +0000 From: "Gilbert Hoffman" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: [email protected] Subject: [E30] warm idle issues Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Gruppe: I looked in the Bentley and cannot really find a situation that related to what I have occurring. First, about the car: 1987 325(e) 207000+ miles Recent injector cleaning Recent cold start injector replacement Car starts well when stone cold or warm. (Not perfect, but well.) Car idles fine when first started and while running. Idles fine when engine is "hot." Does not idle well (stutters) for first 10-25 seconds after starting if car is "warm." This affects acceleration during that period. Nothing seems to cure hesitation other than time. These symptoms existed before forementioned repairs. I've checked the thermo switch and it appears to be operating correctly. What else should I be checking? Gilbert ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 15 Dec 2005 21:42:59 -0800 From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: Gilbert Hoffman <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Cc: [email protected] Subject: Re: [E30] warm idle issues Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Could be symptoms of a failing coolant temperature sensor. Also, check for lack of spark during the stutters. Easy way is to look if tach need drops to zero. If coolant temperature sensor is ok, then try swapping a spare air flow meter. Any E30 AFM with the same connector will work. Wear on the carbon band and copper pickup is common on these AFMs. Barry Gilbert Hoffman wrote: > Gruppe: > > I looked in the Bentley and cannot really find a situation that > related to what I have occurring. > First, about the car: > 1987 325(e) > 207000+ miles > ...... > What else should I be checking? > Gilbert ------------------------------ End of [bmwuucdigest] digest(15 messages) **********
