The BMW UUC Digest 
Volume 3 : Issue 19 : "text" Format

Messages in this Issue:
  Re: <E34> rear-end noise?
  <E34> Rear Seat Question
  Re: <E34> Rear Seat Question
  E30, spark and fuel...no start
  Re: E30, spark and fuel...no start
  Re: E30, spark and fuel...no start
  Re: E30, spark and fuel...no start
  Re: E30, spark and fuel...no start
  Re: E30, spark and fuel...no start
  Fixing bent wheel
  90 525iA blower motor (IHCA)
  Re: Vanos Filter
  New cam
  Re: New cam
  E36 upgrade from Check Control to OBC - possible?

----------------------------------------------------------------------

Date: Mon, 2 Jan 2006 16:44:37 -0800
From: "Marco Romani" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[email protected]>
Subject: Re: <E34> rear-end noise?
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>

I have zero exposure to an E34 but that sounds very similar to the symptoms
of a rear subframe mounting point tearing loose in an E36.  I hope for your
sake an E34 and an E36 have nothing in common when it comes to a rear
subframe.

Marco

-----Original Message-----
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Behalf Of Kurt Zimmerman
Sent: Monday, January 02, 2006 1:50 PM
To: UUC Digest
Subject: Re: [UUC] <E34> rear-end noise?


Thanks to all those who made suggestions.  I'll start checking those
items: Center bearing is only 1.5 years old, but I could have a bad
one.  The rear bushings have 100k miles on them so that is a real
possibliity.  Fortunately, nobody has suggested anything that is going
to fail catastrophically.

Kurt


On 1/1/06, Kurt Zimmerman <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> My wife's '89 535i 5-spd has started to make an odd noise on
> acceleration.  It sounds like a quick ba-da-dump (yeah like a deep rim
> shot).    If I take off slowly, and try not to put a lot of load on
> the drive train, it won't make the sound.  But in normal driving mode
> it is starting to happen most every time we leave a stop light or turn
> a corner (in either direction). The noise happens once per
> acceleration and seems to occur before the car reaches 30 mph.  The
> noise also seems to be slightly louder if there are passengers in the
> car.
>
> It may be psychological, but when I hear the noise, there seems to be
> a corresponding shiver through the car.
>
> What do you think?  Could this be something that could unexpectedly strand
her?
>
> Thanks and Happy New Year.
>
> Kurt
>

Search the ARCHIVES:http://www.mail-archive.com/[email protected]


__________________________________________________________________________
In memory of Michel Potheau - friend, enthusiast, founder of the BMW CCA.

UUC Motorwerks - BMW Performance Fine-tuning and home of the Ultimate
Short Shifter - accept no substitutes!
908-874-9092 . http://www.uucmotorwerks.com


------------------------------

Date: Mon, 2 Jan 2006 20:25:44 -0800
From: "Scott & Charlotte Miller" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: "UUC Digest" <[email protected]>
Subject: <E34> Rear Seat Question
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>

Did any E34 sedans have folding rear seats?  Which years/models?
Optional?  Never had it?

TIA,

Scott Miller
GGC BMW CCA




------------------------------

Date: Tue, 3 Jan 2006 10:06:34 -0500
From: "Gary Derian" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: "Scott & Charlotte Miller" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>,
        "UUC Digest" <[email protected]>
Subject: Re: <E34> Rear Seat Question
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>

Yes they did, but I think none in the US.
Gary Derian

> Did any E34 sedans have folding rear seats?  Which years/models?
> Optional?  Never had it?
> 
> TIA,
> 
> Scott Miller
> GGC BMW CCA


------------------------------

Date: Mon, 2 Jan 2006 20:40:37 -0800
From: "Scott & Charlotte Miller" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: "UUC Digest" <[email protected]>
Subject: E30, spark and fuel...no start
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>

Two possibilities come to mind:

Main relay
Crankshaft position sensor

Since the crank hub was not properly torqued, I'd start there.

Scott Miller
GGC BMW CCA

>Date: Mon, 02 Jan 2006 17:43:16 +0000
>From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] (Peter Harkonen)
>To: [email protected]
>Subject: E30, spark and fuel...no start
>Message-ID:
><[EMAIL PROTECTED]
cast.net>
>
>Problem is really that the car will appear to start and run for half
a
>second, at most, and then die...then it will only crank and crank
>with the faintest utterance of a stumble and partial combustion.
>There is fuel( the plugs get wet), and there is spark( strong and
>white), and it will not start.

>I thought about the chance of the timing belt being old and having
>skipped  a tooth sending physical timing out of whack, so I checked
>the cap and rotor, and found evidence of misfiring within the cap.
>This is what brought me to spend new years day changing my timing
>belt and water pump.  I discovered two problems when doing the
>swap out.  First was the crank bolt that is usually torqued to
>302 flb.s,  was really torqed to 3+0+2=5 flbs, it came loose with a
>two foot breaker bar as i was trying to align the timing marks, won't
>go into how i got it tight but it is.  Second thing wrong was the
timing
>belt tensioner had the tensioner spring and guide bolt (bullet shaped
>thing) in BACKwards!  There was soo little tension on the belt that I
>could turn the tesioner pully in my hand with the belt in place!  The
>belt was very slack between each sprocket and luckily it hadn't
>jumped a tooth or broken yet.
<snip>
>
>Pete Harkonen
>1990 325i 5spd.




------------------------------

Date: Tue, 03 Jan 2006 05:44:25 +0000
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] (Peter Harkonen)
To: "Scott & Charlotte Miller" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Cc: [email protected]
Subject: Re: E30, spark and fuel...no start
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>

Could the main relay be at fault here if the engine does get fuel and spark?
I have torqued the crank bolt using a two foot breaker bar with a four foot
extension section of pipe, two adults sitting on the front fenders, and a 18 
inch 
plumbers wrench/monkey wrench holding the crank hub still while trying to lift 
the 
car off the ground as its steadying the hub.

I thought the main relay would keep the car from starting by not supplying
voltage to the DME, no?

I'm trying to get a friend of a friend to let me try his DME from his car to 
rule 
that one out.  

Engine smells of fuel quickly after trying to start it with no luck.  One thing 
I've noticed
is that the engine will appear to start the very first try within a frequency 
of a couple
of hours rest, and the starting sensation lasts for half a second ot a full 
second
and then stops, as if something has interupted the starting cycle...at a loss 
here.

Pete Harkonen
1990 325i 5spd.
 -------------- Original message ----------------------
From: "Scott & Charlotte Miller" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> Two possibilities come to mind:
> 
> Main relay
> Crankshaft position sensor
> 
> Since the crank hub was not properly torqued, I'd start there.
> 
> Scott Miller
> GGC BMW CCA
> 
> >Date: Mon, 02 Jan 2006 17:43:16 +0000
> >From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] (Peter Harkonen)
> >To: [email protected]
> >Subject: E30, spark and fuel...no start
> >Message-ID:
> ><[EMAIL PROTECTED]
> cast.net>
> >
> >Problem is really that the car will appear to start and run for half
> a
> >second, at most, and then die...then it will only crank and crank
> >with the faintest utterance of a stumble and partial combustion.
> >There is fuel( the plugs get wet), and there is spark( strong and
> >white), and it will not start.
> 
> >I thought about the chance of the timing belt being old and having
> >skipped  a tooth sending physical timing out of whack, so I checked
> >the cap and rotor, and found evidence of misfiring within the cap.
> >This is what brought me to spend new years day changing my timing
> >belt and water pump.  I discovered two problems when doing the
> >swap out.  First was the crank bolt that is usually torqued to
> >302 flb.s,  was really torqed to 3+0+2=5 flbs, it came loose with a
> >two foot breaker bar as i was trying to align the timing marks, won't
> >go into how i got it tight but it is.  Second thing wrong was the
> timing
> >belt tensioner had the tensioner spring and guide bolt (bullet shaped
> >thing) in BACKwards!  There was soo little tension on the belt that I
> >could turn the tesioner pully in my hand with the belt in place!  The
> >belt was very slack between each sprocket and luckily it hadn't
> >jumped a tooth or broken yet.
> <snip>
> >
> >Pete Harkonen
> >1990 325i 5spd.
> 
> 
> 
> Search the ARCHIVES:http://www.mail-archive.com/[email protected]
> 
> 
> __________________________________________________________________________
> In memory of Michel Potheau - friend, enthusiast, founder of the BMW CCA.
> 
> UUC Motorwerks - BMW Performance Fine-tuning and home of the Ultimate
> Short Shifter - accept no substitutes!
> 908-874-9092 . http://www.uucmotorwerks.com



------------------------------

Date: Tue, 03 Jan 2006 05:50:21 +0000
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] (Peter Harkonen)
To: "Andy Messer" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Cc: [email protected]
Subject: Re: E30, spark and fuel...no start
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>

Reference sensor is within Ohm spec. and only 5 or 6 months old.
The plug that was held out, grounded to the valve cover, to check for spark
was firing a solid white spark repeatedly, no interuption.

The ignition system has, new plugs, new wires, new coil, engine speed sensor, 
and new cap and rotor all within the past year, plugs were this weekend.

Pete Harkonen
1990 325i 5spd.


 -------------- Original message ----------------------
From: "Andy Messer" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> Do you know if it continues to give spark more than a few times?  Reference
> sensor could be bad.  I believe the ECM kills the spark once it loses timing
> reference.
> 
> >Problem is really that the car will appear to start and run for half a
> >second, at most, and then die...then it will only crank and crank with the
> >faintest utterance of a stumble and partial combustion.  There is fuel( the
> >plugs get wet), and there is spark( strong and white), and it will not
> >start. 
> 
> Search the ARCHIVES:http://www.mail-archive.com/[email protected]
> 
> 
> __________________________________________________________________________
> In memory of Michel Potheau - friend, enthusiast, founder of the BMW CCA.
> 
> UUC Motorwerks - BMW Performance Fine-tuning and home of the Ultimate
> Short Shifter - accept no substitutes!
> 908-874-9092 . http://www.uucmotorwerks.com



------------------------------

Date: Tue, 3 Jan 2006 13:10:27 -0500 (GMT-05:00)
From: Brian Daley <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: [email protected]
Subject: Re: E30, spark and fuel...no start
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>

-----Original Message-----
>From: Peter Harkonen <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>

>I'm trying to get a friend of a friend to let me try his DME from his car to 
>rule 
>that one out.  

Peter,

If you do this, be sure to try your DME in your friend's car, not the reverse.  
If your DME is toast it won't do any harm to install it in his car.  On the 
other hand, if your car has a short or some other problem that damaged your DME 
you could blow his good DME by installing it in your car.  Maybe not likely, 
but why take chances?

One other possibility - I had a troublesome no-start problem on my E36 a while 
back that turned out to be the battery.  When I couldn't start the car with a 
jump I assumed the battery wasn't the problem and went looking for all of the 
other possible causes like you have done.  After testing sensors, relays, etc., 
swapping in a new battery solved the problem.  I think the battery may have 
developed an internal short or something, and no matter what else I did, it 
wasn't going to start as long as it was in the circuit.  Just a thought, and 
easy to try.

Brian
'94 325ic



------------------------------

Date: Tue, 3 Jan 2006 11:12:11 -0800
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: [email protected]
Subject: Re: E30, spark and fuel...no start
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>


Pete,
To get that ECU connector off of the tang below the intake, you need to
rotate the lock ring on the bottom side. It can take some time to get it
off but it will loosen. I used a combination of contact cleaner and DeOxit
gold to condition the pins once I had it apart.

-Kevin




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------------------------------

Date: Tue, 3 Jan 2006 10:44:35 -0500
From: "Gary Derian" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: "Peter Harkonen" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>,
        "Scott & Charlotte Miller" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Cc: <[email protected]>
Subject: Re: E30, spark and fuel...no start
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>

In that case, try a set of new plugs.  Wet plugs leak ignition voltage and 
prevent enough buildup to spark.

Gary Derian


>
> Engine smells of fuel quickly after trying to start it with no luck.  One 
> thing I've noticed
> is that the engine will appear to start the very first try within a 
> frequency of a couple
> of hours rest, and the starting sensation lasts for half a second ot a 
> full second
> and then stops, as if something has interupted the starting cycle...at a 
> loss here.
>
> Pete Harkonen
> 1990 325i 5spd.


------------------------------

Date: Tue, 3 Jan 2006 11:27:04 -0800 (PST)
From: Andre Yew <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: [email protected]
Subject: Fixing bent wheel
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>

Over this weekend, I ran over a giant pothole (which happened to be on the
dirt side of the turn 8A apex at Laguna Seca) and messed up my right rear
wheel.  It's bent and has its inside lip torn, probably from being wedged
into the backside of the one remaining alligator-tooth berm on the whole
course (they're smoothing out the berms for Moto GP). Is the wheel
basically done?  It's an aluminum alloy wheel --- the BMW M68 that comes
on sport-packaged E46 cars. 

Do I have an excuse to buy some BBSs?

--Andre


------------------------------

Date: Tue, 3 Jan 2006 11:48:54 -0500 
From: "Beaudette, Roland         SIKORSKY" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: "UUC (E-mail)" <[email protected]>
Subject: 90 525iA blower motor (IHCA)
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>

Well, I appreciate everyone correcting me.  I had reviewed the procedure
months ago and thought the wipers were involved.

I will eventually need to address the wipers as the passenger side has
succumbed to the dreaded interference with the driver's side malady.  So for
warmer weather (nor'easter today) but while all of you are thinking about it
for me, is it safe to pull hard?  Heat? Impact wrench?  I suppose if there
is a die grinder available, I can just grind the offending material away.

Cheers,

Roland

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 3 Jan 2006 10:54:00 -0800
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: [email protected]
Subject: Re: Vanos Filter
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>


Marc0 and Dave,

When the rain let up a bit, I went out to the M3 and couldn't find the
filter on the Vanos. Marco is correct the US motors don't seem to have
this.

-Kevin



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 This  e-mail  communication is confidential and is intended only 
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 the  contents of this communication to others. Please notify the 
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------------------------------

Date: Tue, 3 Jan 2006 11:26:02 -0800
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: [email protected]
Subject: New cam
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>


Two questions regarding cam replacement:

1. On the E36 motor picture on the realoem site is shows cam blocks. Can
these be removed as a unit when replacing the cams to avoid cracking the
cams?

2. When upgrading to a longer duration, higher lift cam (Shrick for
example) do you have to degree the cam?

-Kevin



 ---------------------------------------------------------------- 
 This  e-mail  communication is confidential and is intended only 
 for  the individual(s) or entity named above and others who have 
 been  specifically  authorized to receive it. If you are not the 
 intended  recipient,  please  do not read, copy, use or disclose 
 the  contents of this communication to others. Please notify the 
 sender  that  you have received this e-mail in error by replying 
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------------------------------

Date: Tue, 3 Jan 2006 15:20:45 -0500 (GMT-05:00)
From: Brian Daley <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: [email protected]
Subject: Re: New cam
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>

-----Original Message-----
>From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
>Sent: Jan 3, 2006 2:26 PM
>To: [email protected]
>Subject: [UUC]  New cam
>
>
>Two questions regarding cam replacement:
>
>1. On the E36 motor picture on the realoem site is shows cam blocks. Can
>these be removed as a unit when replacing the cams to avoid cracking the
>cams?

Use at your own risk:
http://www.pelicanparts.com/bmw/techarticles/E36-Camshaft-Removal/E36-camshaft-removal.htm

>
>2. When upgrading to a longer duration, higher lift cam (Shrick for
>example) do you have to degree the cam?

I don't know if you *have* to, but it's never a bad idea to degree the cam and 
check piston to valve clearance when doing a cam swap, especially when 
increasing duration.

Brian
'94 325ic



------------------------------

Date: Tue, 3 Jan 2006 15:06:59 -0500 
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: [email protected]
Subject: E36 upgrade from Check Control to OBC - possible?
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>

Hi everyone,

I just purchased a 10/96 manufacture E36 M3 Sedan.  The Check control with
temp display is all garbled and I'll need to replace it.  I'm wondering if I
can upgrade to OBC instead.  I don't need the 'toggle' function offered by
the button on the end of the turn signal stalk.

Does anybody have a reference to this being done and what's involved?

Thanks!

Mike Olsen
98 540i-6
97 M3 Sedan <----brand new to us!
88 M3 Henna
88 325iCA





------------------------------

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