The BMW UUC Digest Volume 2 : Issue 868 : "text" Format Messages in this Issue: Re: C&D summer tire comparison Re: rotational mass/ was: C&D summer tire comparison Re: <E30> Idle Issues and CEL Re: <E36> M3 spring comparo Check Engine light (E36) Re: Check Engine light (E36) Re: Check Engine light (E36) Re: C&D summer tire comparison <E36> Help! RSM install Re: <E36> Help! RSM install Re: <E36> Help! RSM install C&D Summer (California All-Seasons) Tire Test/ Pilot Sport II's <e36> Suspension set up Re: <e36> Suspension set up Off topic, oil change e46
---------------------------------------------------------------------- Date: Thu, 17 Nov 2005 10:30:43 -0500 From: "Gary Derian" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: "P Kroon" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>, <[email protected]> Subject: Re: C&D summer tire comparison Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Narrow tires are less sensitive to camber, absorb bumps better are cheaper, lighter and have less rolling resistance. There are many factors to balance. A light weight low powered car does very well on narrow tires and is a lot of fun to drive. A Dodge Viper is the poster child for large, heavy with huge tires. It is fast, but brutal. Regarding bicycles, mass affects performance any time one rides uphill. Rotational mass only affects acceleration. Gary Derian > Where things really start to get complicated is when > you compare the advantages/disadvatages of larger > width wheels. Specifically, the added traction of the > wider setup versus the added rotational mass. > > I think most will agree that more traction is better, > but at what weight penalty? > > -Paul > 95 M3 > 98 Panoz AIV > 03 G35 > > --- Gary Derian <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote: > >> The facts are four 2 lb heavier tires make no more >> than 16 lb worth of >> inertia. If that can be felt on the street by a >> sensitive type then OK. >> But the affect on acceleration will be no more than >> 3 extra gallons of fuel >> in the tank. >> >> I don't know where the bicycle guys get 10 to 1. >> Mass and polar moment of >> inertia are easily calculated. >> >> Gary Derian >> >> >> > I agree with the disagreement. Unsprung >> rotating mass makes a big >> > difference in energy needed to accelerate. >> > Part of keeping 'Jack fast on the street is >> staying with stock size 17"'s. >> > There is a difference between unsprung >> rotating versus static mass. >> > In cycling, with tire and rim versus frame, its >> considered a 10:1 factor. >> > 10 grams less tire and rim weight is like 100 >> grams less on the frame. >> > The 190 gram "lite" version of a bike tire I'll >> use for events are >> > noticeable quicker to accelerate than a 220 gram >> regular version of the >> > same tire. With a 160 gram Continental >> Supersonic, that's at least a few >> > seconds per minute on a long hillclimb, or many >> calories less expended on >> > a 200 mile endurance ride. >> > Barry >> > >> > Kazuto Okayasu wrote: >> > >> >> At 12:47 PM 11/16/2005, Gary Derian wrote: >> >> >> >> I disagree. 2-3lbs unsprung mass at each >> wheel/tire is noticeable on the >> >> street assuming you drive something like a BMW >> where the car isn't >> >> absorbing all the road feel. >> >> Start combining heavy tires with heavy wheels >> (OE+ 5lbs and up) and the >> >> driving experience starts to take a nosedive. I >> like to see wheel+tire >> >> weight on a typical E36/E46/E90 size (8" wide >> wheel, 225 width tire) to >> >> be not more than 45lb. >> >> >> Search the >> > ARCHIVES:http://www.mail-archive.com/[email protected] >> >> >> > __________________________________________________________________________ >> In memory of Michel Potheau - friend, enthusiast, >> founder of the BMW CCA. >> >> UUC Motorwerks - BMW Performance Fine-tuning and >> home of the Ultimate >> Short Shifter - accept no substitutes! >> 908-874-9092 . http://www.uucmotorwerks.com >> > > > > > __________________________________ > Yahoo! FareChase: Search multiple travel sites in one click. > http://farechase.yahoo.com > Search the ARCHIVES:http://www.mail-archive.com/[email protected] > > > __________________________________________________________________________ > In memory of Michel Potheau - friend, enthusiast, founder of the BMW CCA. > > UUC Motorwerks - BMW Performance Fine-tuning and home of the Ultimate > Short Shifter - accept no substitutes! > 908-874-9092 . http://www.uucmotorwerks.com ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 17 Nov 2005 12:01:12 -0800 From: "[EMAIL PROTECTED]" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: Gary Derian <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>, "[uucdigest]" <[email protected]> Subject: Re: rotational mass/ was: C&D summer tire comparison Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Here's are answers I received when posting for info on this on a bicycle racing list: Barry ------------------------------------- a website to check out with all sorts of mass, tire pressure, rolling resistance, and aerodynamic graphs and calculations given, is: >http://analyticcycling.com/ ------------------------------------- >It depends on the mass distribution of the wheel. Generally speaking the formula is E=Iw^2/2 which is the rotational >equivolent to E= mv^2/2. In the rotational case the w is the rotational rate of the object in question and I is the moment of >inertia. For a hoop, you get, I = mR^2, a hoop is a reasonable approximation for the moment of inertia because most of >the other mass is located close to the axis of rotation. So what does this all mean? Well if you have a hoop and you want >to compare how much energy it takes to rotate the wheel compaired to how much it takes to push it the answer is thus: > >Answer = Iw^2/mv^2 > v = wr > I = mr^2 > Answer = 1 >thus it takes just as much energy to push the wheel as it takes to rotate BUT since you are doing both on a bike then it >takes you a total of twice as much energy. ------------------------------------- ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 17 Nov 2005 11:34:23 -0500 From: "Gary Derian" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: "Paul Craven" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>, <[email protected]> Subject: Re: <E30> Idle Issues and CEL Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Put a meter on the exhaust sensor to see what its doing. A misfire sends lots of oxygen to the catalyst. I'd check the cap, rotor and plugs/wires. Gary Derian > Hi all, > I am having some issues with my 93 325ic with 122kmiles (yes it > is an E30). Over the last month or two the idle has gotten progressively > rougher and last week the check engine light started coming on at idle. > This really started getting bad after I had the airbox out to do the > starter. Blipping the throttle extinguishes the light and the stomp > test gives a 1222 code which is lambda control 1 (I believe this means > the air/fuel mixture is out of range). Otherwise thecar runs fine. > Conventional wisdom states that this is caused by a vacuum leak. > So, I tested with a propane torch to see if I could find a leak (yes I > know this is not necessarily the safest thing to do) and could find no > leaks. A quick web search turned up a nice page by Ted Verrill where he > cured these exact symptoms (including the no leaks found) by replacing > the rubber boot from the air meter to the throttle. This boot was > lightly cracked on my car so I replaced it and the ICV elbow hose and > the crankcase vent hose. > The end result is that the idle is marginally improved, but the > car still throws a CEL at idle and may in fact be doing it quicker now. > I have also checked the dipstick O-rings and the oil cap and they seem > fine. The O2 sensor has maybe 5000 miles on it. The valves were > adjusted about 8kmiles ago and the plugs were replaced at that time. The > only other suspect part I can come up with is the ICV. The idle does > hunt once in a while, so I cleaned the ICV when I did the starter and > again a week or so ago when I was looking for vacuum leaks. Is the ICV > the next logical step? Any other ideas? > > Regards, > Paul Craven > 93 325ic - wishing the lumpy idle was from a big cam > 99 528iT - so smooth it's almost too smooth > > Search the ARCHIVES:http://www.mail-archive.com/[email protected] > > > __________________________________________________________________________ > In memory of Michel Potheau - friend, enthusiast, founder of the BMW CCA. > > UUC Motorwerks - BMW Performance Fine-tuning and home of the Ultimate > Short Shifter - accept no substitutes! > 908-874-9092 . http://www.uucmotorwerks.com ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 17 Nov 2005 10:11:30 -0600 (CST) From: "Kevin Jay (Mr.Fabulous)" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: [email protected] Subject: Re: <E36> M3 spring comparo Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> All this talk of finding bottom with a Bilstein/H&R setup has always puzzled me. I run exactly this (monotube Bilstein sport, H&R). Bolted it all up right out of the box. Didn't take anything apart, cut anything... it's all right out of the box. In the six or so years I've driven on this, I don't recall ever finding the bottom of my suspension, & I really like the ride. - Kevin Jay '96 328is, red/tan, 95K, usual H&R/Bilstein setup, a few M3 parts too '02 X5 3.0, white/tan, 38K, bone stock, not crazy about it ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 17 Nov 2005 09:12:22 -0800 (PST) From: Mr <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: "[EMAIL PROTECTED]" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>, "[email protected]" <[email protected]> Subject: Check Engine light (E36) Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Greetings all, First off I wanted to welcome Scott back and wish him a healthy future. Now heres the deal. The "Check Engine" light on my 95 325i, 222k, came on yesterday and I'm not too sure why. Would low transmission fluid trigger this light? Everything else is okay as far as I know. There is this "whine" coming from the engine when I step on the throttle though. I've been told is sounded like some sort of underdrive system but I don't have one. Could this be the problem? I've tried to isolate where the noise is coming from but it's not an easy one man thing to do. Anyone else have this "whine" in their car? TIA!!! Manuel Paredes 1995 325i (222k wow!) L.A. BMWCCA __________________________________ Yahoo! FareChase: Search multiple travel sites in one click. http://farechase.yahoo.com ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 17 Nov 2005 10:28:14 -0800 From: "[EMAIL PROTECTED]" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: Mr <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Cc: "[EMAIL PROTECTED]" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>, "[email protected]" <[email protected]> Subject: Re: Check Engine light (E36) Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Could be a belt driver accessory bearing going bad, check water pump, a/c compressor, alternator, p/s pump? Barry Mr wrote: >Greetings all, > >First off I wanted to welcome Scott back and wish him >a healthy future. > >Now heres the deal. The "Check Engine" light on my 95 >325i, 222k, came on yesterday and I'm not too sure >why. Would low transmission fluid trigger this light? > Everything else is okay as far as I know. There is >this "whine" coming from the engine when I step on the >throttle though. I've been told is sounded like some >sort of underdrive system but I don't have one. Could >this be the problem? I've tried to isolate where the >noise is coming from but it's not an easy one man >thing to do. Anyone else have this "whine" in their >car? TIA!!! >Manuel Paredes >1995 325i (222k wow!) >L.A. BMWCCA > > ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 17 Nov 2005 14:32:42 -0500 From: "Marc Plante" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: [email protected] Subject: Re: Check Engine light (E36) Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> in my old 325, I used to get a little whining out of the passenger seat when I get into offramps a little hot... but that's besides the point. A CE light with no apparent symptoms may be something as simple as a bad O2 sensor...won't really impact driveability, but triggers the light. Dunno if you have the pedal-based diagnostic in your car. Turn ignition to ON position then step on and release the gas pedal 5 times in 5 secs. If the check engine light starts flashing, then you've got the diags available. If you have a bentley, it can help you decipher their meaning. there's typically a beginning-of-message series of flashes, followed by a morse code rendering of a 4 digit number. That number gives you a hint of a subsystem that is not acting or reading normally....WHY that system isn't acting normally is still a puzzle, but it points you in a direction. HTH, Marc Plante 1993 E36 325i (sold @ 230k, hopefully to a happy customer) 1997 E36 M3/4 67k 2005 Child Vienna, VA ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 17 Nov 2005 09:23:09 -0800 From: "[EMAIL PROTECTED]" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: P Kroon <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Cc: [email protected] Subject: Re: C&D summer tire comparison Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> A wider tire will also have a greater rolling resistance than narrower a one of the same type. Barry P Kroon wrote: >Where things really start to get complicated is when >you compare the advantages/disadvatages of larger >width wheels. Specifically, the added traction of the >wider setup versus the added rotational mass. > >I think most will agree that more traction is better, >but at what weight penalty? > >-Paul >95 M3 >98 Panoz AIV >03 G35 > > > > ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 17 Nov 2005 11:58:23 -0600 (CST) From: "Kevin Jay (Mr.Fabulous)" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: [email protected] Subject: <E36> Help! RSM install Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Gruupe: Help! Efforting to re-do the RSMs on my E36. Based on a recommendation from the list, I'm using a part from Meyle: http://catimages2.sophio.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/imc/images/full/33521092362MY.jpg Problem is I can't figure out how to keep the insert/bushing from poping out of the metal shell. The part comes with a large metal washer, about the diameter of the bushing. Install the washer on the bottom, and the bushing pops out of the shell (downward) just from the weight of the suspension (hanging). Install the washer on top, and it'll hang alright... but then I can see the bushing poping out from the bottom-up. WTF. Any thoughts on what to do with this would really be appreciated... the wife's car is at the airport, & I'm basically stuck here with the car on stands. Reply to me directly please! - Kevin Jay '96 328is, red/tan, 95K, usual H&R/Bilstein setup, a few M3 parts too '02 X5 3.0, white/tan, 35K, bone stock ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 17 Nov 2005 10:17:15 -0800 (PST) From: Carlos Lopez <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: "Kevin Jay \(Mr.Fabulous\)" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>, [email protected] Subject: Re: <E36> Help! RSM install Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> --- "Kevin Jay (Mr.Fabulous)" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote: > Install the washer on top, and it'll hang alright... but > then I > can see the bushing poping out from the bottom-up. WTF. Kevin, I don't believe anything should be popping out of anything. Perhaps the part is junk and Meyle continues to disappoint. Maybe you can try to sandwich the bushing in between two large washers one top, one bottom and have it work for a while until you can get a real RSM. Even though I'm not a fan of Ground Control I truly believe their design is perhaps the best. Carlos 98 M3 w/GC rear shock mounts, threw away the JTD ones __________________________________ Yahoo! FareChase: Search multiple travel sites in one click. http://farechase.yahoo.com ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 17 Nov 2005 13:40:34 -0600 (CST) From: "Kevin Jay (Mr.Fabulous)" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: [email protected] Subject: Re: <E36> Help! RSM install Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Everything is back together. Re-used the larger factory bottom washer, and the washer that came with the part on top. *Many* thanks to all who responded, you guys make all this DIY crap fun. - k On Thu, 17 Nov 2005, Kevin Jay (Mr.Fabulous) wrote: > > Gruupe: > > Help! > > Efforting to re-do the RSMs on my E36. Based on a recommendation from the > list, I'm using a part from Meyle: > > http://catimages2.sophio.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/imc/images/full/33521092362MY.jpg > > Problem is I can't figure out how to keep the insert/bushing from poping out > of the metal shell. The part comes with a large metal washer, about the > diameter of the bushing. Install the washer on the bottom, and the bushing > pops out of the shell (downward) just from the weight of the suspension > (hanging). Install the washer on top, and it'll hang alright... but then I > can see the bushing poping out from the bottom-up. WTF. ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 17 Nov 2005 09:52:59 -0800 (PST) From: kjk <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: [email protected] Subject: C&D Summer (California All-Seasons) Tire Test/ Pilot Sport II's Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> After three sets of S03's and a price increase during that time from $183 to $240 and too much driving to be using a max perf. tire, I just had a set of Kuhmo SPT's mounted. Not bad at all for $130 each and I am quite shocked at the grip. Not up to the S03 but close enough for daily driving. I will have to wait for a long term evaluation. My neighbor never got more than 12k or so out of his Pilot Sports on the back of his 330ic. He switched to the All Seasons. I will say the PS2 has dumped the real directional tread which I find gets very loud on any tire as they wear. For those of us running some camber, the tramlining also gets painful near the end of a tire's life. I usually got around 20k out of my s03's but that was a lot of freeway driving. Kevin Kelly '91 M5 '00 323iT __________________________________ Yahoo! FareChase: Search multiple travel sites in one click. http://farechase.yahoo.com ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 17 Nov 2005 11:04:49 -0800 From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: [email protected] Subject: <e36> Suspension set up Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Thanks to all who lent their much appreciated experience and insights into the suspension details on my son's E36. It looks like we can get the rear springs out without removing the half-shafts. I like Marc's idea about using the stick type compressors to at least partially compress the springs. The next thing is to determine where to set the rear Koni's and then what we have the alignment shop set the front toe to for overall best handling. -Kevin ---------------------------------------------------------------- This e-mail communication is confidential and is intended only for the individual(s) or entity named above and others who have been specifically authorized to receive it. If you are not the intended recipient, please do not read, copy, use or disclose the contents of this communication to others. Please notify the sender that you have received this e-mail in error by replying to the e-mail. Please then delete the e-mail and any copies of it. Thank you. ---------------------------------------------------------------- ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 17 Nov 2005 11:28:15 -0800 From: "[EMAIL PROTECTED]" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Cc: [email protected] Subject: Re: <e36> Suspension set up Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> The E36 Koni's come with a nice valving out of the box, start at 1/4 turn from full soft, up to half turn at most for street driving. On the '97 //M3, that was the starting point. After 100k miles you might want to increase about 1/8 - 1/4 turn to compensate for wear. While you're in there, and since you're planning a wheel alignment, it could be a good time to replace the RTABs too. Barry [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: >Thanks to all who lent their much appreciated experience and insights into >the suspension details on my son's E36. It looks like we can get the rear >springs out without removing the half-shafts. I like Marc's idea about >using the stick type compressors to at least partially compress the >springs. >The next thing is to determine where to set the rear Koni's and then what >we have the alignment shop set the front toe to for overall best handling. >-Kevin > > ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 17 Nov 2005 11:05:37 -0800 (PST) From: Mr <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: "[EMAIL PROTECTED]" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>, "[email protected]" <[email protected]> Subject: Off topic, oil change e46 Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> I'm sure someone here has to own an e46 so I'll give it a shot! My g/f has a 2002 325ci that just came off it's warranty and needs an oil change. I have a 95 325i that I've done most of the servicing on. My question is can I use the same oil filter kit as the e36 on the e46 and also if there is a big difference in changing the oil. If I remember correctly there is some sort of plate covering the drain plug bolt but I'm not too sure. Can anyone here let me know what the differences are? I'm in the process of purchasing a bentley for this car as I can see I will be bonding with it soon. Thanks in advance!! Manuel 95 325i Lot's of goodies L.A. BMWCCA __________________________________ Start your day with Yahoo! - Make it your home page! http://www.yahoo.com/r/hs ------------------------------ End of [bmwuucdigest] digest(15 messages) **********
