The BMW UUC Digest Volume 2 : Issue 869 : "text" Format Messages in this Issue: Re: Off topic, oil change e46 Re: Off topic, oil change e46 rotational mass/ was: C&D summer tire comparison Re: Off topic, oil change e46 Re: <E30> Idle Issues and CEL E30 Ignitions Re: E30 Ignitions Can somebody look at a car for me? <FS> 2002 745Li Check Engine light, Vol. 2 Re: [bmw] Check Engine light, Vol. 2 Re: Check Engine light, Vol. 2 Re: <e36> Suspension set up
---------------------------------------------------------------------- Date: Thu, 17 Nov 2005 12:06:21 -0800 (PST) From: Andre Yew <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: "[email protected]" <[email protected]> Subject: Re: Off topic, oil change e46 Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> On Thu, 17 Nov 2005, Mr wrote: > My question is can I use the same oil filter kit as the e36 on the e46 > and also if there is a big difference in changing the oil. If I > remember correctly there is some sort of plate covering the drain plug > bolt but I'm not too sure. Can anyone here let me know what the > differences are? I'm not sure about the filter kit. The one I use for my car (E46 328Ci) is PN 11 427 512 300, which is what realoem.com says is used for the 325, too. Some cars have a metal plate beneath the engine for aerodynamic reasons, and there's a small hatch hat opens to expose the drain plug. Later cars still have the plate, but there's no hatch, just a hole where the hatch used to be so you can get direct access to the plug. All this and more are clearer if you check out this site: http://www.bmw325i.net/maint_oil_change.shtml --Andre ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 17 Nov 2005 16:33:50 -0500 From: "chet.dawes" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: <[email protected]>, <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: Re: Off topic, oil change e46 Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Manuel, 1) If your '95 325i has a metal (aluminum) oil filter cover, the answer is 'No' the oil filter kit is NOT interchangeable. E46 non-M cars came with a plastic oil filter cover. The resulting filter element is physically larger and can't be interchanged. Part numbers: 2002 e46 325ci = 11 42 7 512 300 1995 e36 325i = 11 42 1 730 389 Prices from your local dealer should be something less than retail of ~$9 for either. 2) No big difference in procedure, just check fluid capacity for the e46. Yeah, I believe you have to remove some access panel but that's a no-brainer. You're asking me to remember the exact oil change procedure I last completed 6 months ago..... ;-P I'd recommend either the mandated "BMW High Performance Synthetic Oil" or Mobil 1 fully synthetic 5w-30 (or whatever the vehicle's operating climate and owner's manual dictates). 3) Resetting the service interval is done differently from the e36. With the e46 in question, it is reset via the instrument panel. Instructions can be found all over the web, a simple google search turns up this one: http://www.autoshoppingcenter.com/servicelights/Bmw1.html Hope that helps you bond with the car....now go bond with the g/f instead of researching changing her *car's* oil. ;-) Cheers, Chet Dawes ----------------------------- From: Mr <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: Off topic, oil change e46 I'm sure someone here has to own an e46 so I'll give it a shot! My g/f has a 2002 325ci that just came off it's warranty and needs an oil change. I have a 95 325i that I've done most of the servicing on. My question is can I use the same oil filter kit as the e36 on the e46 and also if there is a big difference in changing the oil. If I remember correctly there is some sort of plate covering the drain plug bolt but I'm not too sure. Can anyone here let me know what the differences are? I'm in the process of purchasing a bentley for this car as I can see I will be bonding with it soon. Thanks in advance!! Manuel 95 325i Lot's of goodies L.A. BMWCCA **************************************************************************************** Note: If the reader of this message is not the intended recipient, or an employee or agent responsible for delivering this message to the intended recipient, you are hereby notified that any dissemination, distribution or copying of this communication is strictly prohibited. If you have received this communication in error, please notify us immediately by replying to the message and deleting it from your computer. Thank you. **************************************************************************************** ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 17 Nov 2005 13:14:23 -0800 From: Tom Kosmalski <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: [email protected] Subject: rotational mass/ was: C&D summer tire comparison Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Another bike geek chiming here. Not much of a "weight weenie", but a bike geek nevertheless. The latese 2:1 ratio of weight on frame vs. wheel pretty much jibes with what my co-riders typically claim (e.g., taking a pound off your wheels/tires is as good as taking two pounds off the frame, or other non-rotating component). Now I've seen the physics behind it, and it seems to make sense! Tom K. Hood River, OR ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 17 Nov 2005 13:38:41 -0800 From: Kazuto Okayasu <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: "[email protected]" <[email protected]> Subject: Re: Off topic, oil change e46 Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> At 11:05 AM 11/17/2005, Mr wrote: I think some late E36s with M52s use the same kit, but yours isn't one of them. The filter cap would be plastic, not metal. BMW PN ends in 7 512 300, or MANN HU925/4x (exact OE) or Mahle OX154/1D There is a plate underneath with a hatch in it, but so many hatches fell off (including mine) that I think BMW just gave up and quit installing them at some point. It just uses a quarter-turn phillips head screw if it's there. As for the Bentley, they released an updated one earlier this year, so make sure you get the new one (color car pics on the cover). The old one (99-01) is perfectly usable on a 02, but the new one is more comprehensive overall. >I'm sure someone here has to own an e46 so I'll give >it a shot! > >My g/f has a 2002 325ci that just came off it's >warranty and needs an oil change. I have a 95 325i >that I've done most of the servicing on. My question >is can I use the same oil filter kit as the e36 on the >e46 and also if there is a big difference in changing >the oil. If I remember correctly there is some sort >of plate covering the drain plug bolt but I'm not too >sure. Can anyone here let me know what the >differences are? I'm in the process of purchasing a >bentley for this car as I can see I will be bonding >with it soon. Thanks in advance!! > >Manuel >95 325i Lot's of goodies >L.A. BMWCCA > > > >__________________________________ >Start your day with Yahoo! - Make it your home page! >http://www.yahoo.com/r/hs >Search the ARCHIVES:http://www.mail-archive.com/[email protected] > > >__________________________________________________________________________ >In memory of Michel Potheau - friend, enthusiast, founder of the BMW CCA. > >UUC Motorwerks - BMW Performance Fine-tuning and home of the Ultimate >Short Shifter - accept no substitutes! >908-874-9092 . http://www.uucmotorwerks.com Kazuto Okayasu Manager, Desktop Support Services Administrative Computing Services, University of California, Irvine [EMAIL PROTECTED] ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 17 Nov 2005 17:40:23 -0500 (EST) From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] (Paul Craven) Cc: [email protected] Subject: Re: <E30> Idle Issues and CEL Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> >From Paul Craven > >Hi all, > I am having some issues with my 93 325ic with 122kmiles (yes it >is an E30). Over the last month or two the idle has gotten progressively >rougher and last week the check engine light started coming on at idle. Welcome to the famous E30 rough idle... *sigh* Ok, mine does it too, but not the CE light... >This really started getting bad after I had the airbox out to do the >starter. Blipping the throttle extinguishes the light and the stomp >test gives a 1222 code which is lambda control 1 (I believe this means >the air/fuel mixture is out of range). Otherwise thecar runs fine. Ok, so you have a newer ECU than I do as mine will not turn the CE light off and I have to do watch the CE light when I turn the ignition on as it blinks one of its four less than informative codes. The 1222 code does mean that the O2 sensor did something unexpected. This can vary from "not there" or "shorted" to "not responding as fast as expected". The fact that the light goes out when off idle says that it is likely working, but something is driving the sensor out of range. Which way? We will have to check that... As someone else mentioned, dig up a multimeter, go pull the plug on the O2 sensor and take some readings. Readings with the sensor unplugged will be only marginally useful, but it is a good place to start. For a real picture of things you will have to tap in and monitor the sensor with it connected to the engine. I used thin wire carefully bent to get around the rubber boots on the connector and was able to watch the sensor operating. It should be swinging back and forth around 0.45v or so. Stuck low it is lean, stuck high it is rich. This should get you an idea of which direction to go. > Conventional wisdom states that this is caused by a vacuum leak. >So, I tested with a propane torch to see if I could find a leak (yes I >know this is not necessarily the safest thing to do) and could find no >leaks. A quick web search turned up a nice page by Ted Verrill where he >cured these exact symptoms (including the no leaks found) by replacing >the rubber boot from the air meter to the throttle. This boot was >lightly cracked on my car so I replaced it and the ICV elbow hose and >the crankcase vent hose. I have the rough idle issue and I went after every conceivable leak. I did fix some, but I never found any by testing for them. Standard leaks are: The boot from the AFM to the throttle Valve cover gasket Crankcase breather Less standard leaks are: ICV hoses Rubber plugs at the ends of the rocker arms Oil cap Dipstick Injector o-rings Brake booster and plumbing Intake manifold gasket Evaporative purge solenoid The metal fittings on the throttle assembly. In my case, the only things I haven't checked/replaced are the intake manifold gaskets. The oil cap looked good, until I replaced the gasket... big difference in feel and big difference in the engine. The dipstick seemed good too, until I replaced the o-rings... It seems that it is easier to just replace all the rubber bits than to try to test them. At this point, I have done both and I still have a rough idle. > The end result is that the idle is marginally improved, but the >car still throws a CEL at idle and may in fact be doing it quicker now. >I have also checked the dipstick O-rings and the oil cap and they seem >fine. The O2 sensor has maybe 5000 miles on it. The valves were >adjusted about 8kmiles ago and the plugs were replaced at that time. The >only other suspect part I can come up with is the ICV. The idle does >hunt once in a while, so I cleaned the ICV when I did the starter and >again a week or so ago when I was looking for vacuum leaks. Is the ICV >the next logical step? Any other ideas? What did you set the valves to? I set mine to 0.010 cold and the car idled rougher than ever, surged, and promptly failed its emissions test with high NOx. I reset the valves to 0.012 cold and the idle improved quite a bit. I have to do the retest for emissions this weekend. I know the E30s are picky about ignition components. When I first got mine it would randomly throw a CE light as well. Nothing fixed it until I replaced the cap/rotor/wires/plugs and then it was fine. What do the spark plugs look like? Do you do a lot of short trips? I do and that led me to try cleaning things up a bit (emissions improvement? Maybe?). I ran a can of Ventil Sauber through about a quarter tank of gas and then have been, um, flogging the poor engine. I have been driving about 1 gear lower than I would think I should. As a result, the engine is spending a lot of time around 3k or better. There is much improvement in the idle and it is now much harder to cause it to ping. My spark plugs are cleaning up too. I checked and gapped them two weeks ago. There were deposits glazed onto the metal and insulators. This last weekend, the metal parts were clean, the insulators were cleaner (I doubt they will ever come clean), and they were the light tan "all is well" color... mostly... I will post that separately... -- Joe -- Joseph M. Krzeszewski Network Operations [EMAIL PROTECTED] Worcester Polytechnic Institute ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 17 Nov 2005 18:25:34 -0500 (EST) From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: [email protected] (bmw list) Subject: E30 Ignitions Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> As I alluded to in another post, I have been thinking about the ignition system in my '87 325i. I recently failed emissions with a slightly higher than passing NOx level. Among the first things I checked were cap/rotor/wire/plugs. The cap and rotor were good, the wires were fine and the plugs were... showing symptoms of something wrong. There were rather heavy deposits on them. This was a glass hard brownish/tannish nastiness that just didn't look right. I reset the gap, cleaned them up as much as possible and put them back. Intent on replacing them, I discovered that the Bosch W8LCR plugs are almost impossible to get around here. Heck, getting non-platinum plugs is almost impossible around here... So I wander off and start looking at various spark plug manufacturers trying to understand their numbering and technologies and cross references... Wow. Somewhere in all this I noticed that some manufacturers were offering resistor plugs as a replacement for the (supposedly) non-resistor Bosch W8LCR... But the W8LCR must have a resistor... it has an R. What does that mean? Apparently, Bosch has three types of plugs: resistor, non-resistor, and something in between. It all depends on where you put the R. W8LC is a non-resistor plug that would fit my E30. WR8LC is a resistor (5k) plug that fits my E30. W8LCR is in between... it has a 1k "burn off resistor" So, both a resistor and non-resistor plug would be wrong for this car... I looked up in Bentley the tests for the ignition components in this car. 1k for each plug +- 200 ohm 1k in the rotor 5k at the resistor in the distributor cap +- 2k 0 ohms through the wires themselves. Wait a minute... I have "resistor wire" in my (yes, aftermarket) plug wires. I look that up. 5k per foot. So the ignition system was designed for 7k +-2.2k for each plug. It could be as low as 4.8k or as high as 9.2k. What I am running is: 1k in the plug W8LCR 1k in the rotor 5-10K in the wires (#1 -> #6) and another 5k from the coil to the cap. That gives me 12k at best and 17K at worst. At best I am already out of spec. If I put a resistor plug, add another 4k to each of them. No wonder the idle funny. If I am not mistaken, the increased resistance will not affect the initial strike voltage, but it will reduce the energy in the spark once struck. I did notice when looking at my plugs after two weeks of running that the #1 plug looked exactly right. As I moved towards #6 I could see improvement over the way they were, but the smallest improvement was on #6 (still had some deposits whereas #1 was clean) I wonder if the ignition system (in this case, my wires) is a big part of the E30 rough idle and a part of my emissions problems. I wonder if it is worth it to go back to the Bosch wires, or non-resistor wires for the cap to the plugs (keeping the 5k from the coil to the cap)... It just seems that I have gotten this out of whack and wonder how much it really matters. -- Joe -- Joseph M. Krzeszewski Network Operations [EMAIL PROTECTED] Worcester Polytechnic Institute ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 17 Nov 2005 16:01:56 -0800 From: "[EMAIL PROTECTED]" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Cc: bmw list <[email protected]> Subject: Re: E30 Ignitions Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Have you replaced the coil? Instead of the Bosch, or as an upgrade on the single coil BMW engines, I've had success with Mallory coils such as: http://www.centuryperformance.com/detail.asp?PRODUCT_ID=MAL-29440 For wires, use NGK wires as listed for a Nissan/ Datsun Z car. The factory spec'ed OEM "Silber" plug was always the best plug for those motors. hth, Barry [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: >As I alluded to in another post, I have been thinking about the ignition >system in my '87 325i. > >I recently failed emissions with a slightly higher than passing NOx level. >Among the first things I checked were cap/rotor/wire/plugs. The cap and >rotor were good, the wires were fine and the plugs were... showing symptoms >of something wrong. There were rather heavy deposits on them. This was a >glass hard brownish/tannish nastiness that just didn't look right. > > ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 17 Nov 2005 16:36:22 -0800 From: "Ben Dixon" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: <[email protected]> Subject: Can somebody look at a car for me? Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Does anybody live around Jamaica, New York and have the time to take a look at a car I'm thinking about buying? If so contact me off list and will chat. thanks, ben [EMAIL PROTECTED] ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 17 Nov 2005 18:16:13 -0600 From: "Alex Cagann" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: <[email protected]> Subject: <FS> 2002 745Li Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> 2002 BMW 745Li, built 6-02 Toledo Blue Metallic Two toned blue/natural leather, natural wood 22,500 miles Heated, massaging, air conditioned seats (comfort seats) Heated rear seats Premium sound with changer and single disc (both in dash) Park Distance Rear sunshade, and sides BMW phone system, has Motorola timeport still in there Service is current, has 6yr/100k transferrable warranty No paintwork, no marks, nothing. As close to new condition as it gets. Looking for reasonable offers. Alex ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 17 Nov 2005 16:45:02 -0800 (PST) From: Mr <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: "[EMAIL PROTECTED]" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>, "[email protected]" <[email protected]> Subject: Check Engine light, Vol. 2 Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Thanks for the help guys. Okay, so I did pedal diagnostic test and it told me my O2 sensor is bad. Not bad for 222k huh! So now, where do I get one of these for a reasonable price and should I change them both while I'm at it? I do have the bently to do this but can you guys tell me if this is and easy fix? About the whine...I tried to isolate where it was coming from just by reving the engine, from the engine bay, and it's not easy to do. The noise is loud so it sounds like it's coming from everywhere. Any tips on how to isolate it? I was thinking of removing the serpentine and spinning the pulleys but that won't do much for my p/s pump, ac comp. and alt.. Ideas, suggestions or comments?? TIA!! Manuel Paredes 95 325i L.A. BMWCCA __________________________________ Yahoo! FareChase: Search multiple travel sites in one click. http://farechase.yahoo.com ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 17 Nov 2005 20:10:44 -0500 From: "Steve Andersen" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: "'Mr'" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>, <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>, <[email protected]> Subject: Re: [bmw] Check Engine light, Vol. 2 Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Your 95 325i should only have 1 sensor. I buy most of my parts at bimmerparts.com/Zygmunt motors. Dunno if it is a "reasonable price", but their prices are competitive. Steve -----Original Message----- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Mr Sent: Thursday, November 17, 2005 7:45 PM To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]; [email protected] Subject: [bmw] Check Engine light, Vol. 2 Thanks for the help guys. Okay, so I did pedal diagnostic test and it told me my O2 sensor is bad. Not bad for 222k huh! So now, where do I get one of these for a reasonable price and should I change them both while I'm at it? I do have the bently to do this but can you guys tell me if this is and easy fix? About the whine...I tried to isolate where it was coming from just by reving the engine, from the engine bay, and it's not easy to do. The noise is loud so it sounds like it's coming from everywhere. Any tips on how to isolate it? I was thinking of removing the serpentine and spinning the pulleys but that won't do much for my p/s pump, ac comp. and alt.. Ideas, suggestions or comments?? TIA!! Manuel Paredes 95 325i L.A. BMWCCA -- to be removed from bmw, see http://www.digest.net/bin/digest-subs.cgi or email "unsubscribe bmw" to [EMAIL PROTECTED] ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 17 Nov 2005 17:50:01 -0800 From: "Marco Romani" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: <[email protected]> Subject: Re: Check Engine light, Vol. 2 Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> if it's a 95 you only have one O2 sensor. Unless you have some weird OBDII 95. I haven't bought one recently but I think they are in the $60 +/- a few range. Normally I would say it's pretty easy to do. But if that is the original O2 sensor with 222k on it I'll reserve judgment. Get a O2 sensor socket from your local autoparts store, they don't cost much. And a can of liquid wrench. I'd use about half the can on your sensor ;-) If you're lucky it shouldn't take longer than 1/2 hour including jacking the car up. If you're not lucky and you break the damn thing off all bets are off. Marco -----Original Message----- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Behalf Of Mr Sent: Thursday, November 17, 2005 4:45 PM To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]; [email protected] Subject: [UUC] Check Engine light, Vol. 2 Thanks for the help guys. Okay, so I did pedal diagnostic test and it told me my O2 sensor is bad. Not bad for 222k huh! So now, where do I get one of these for a reasonable price and should I change them both while I'm at it? I do have the bently to do this but can you guys tell me if this is and easy fix? About the whine...I tried to isolate where it was coming from just by reving the engine, from the engine bay, and it's not easy to do. The noise is loud so it sounds like it's coming from everywhere. Any tips on how to isolate it? I was thinking of removing the serpentine and spinning the pulleys but that won't do much for my p/s pump, ac comp. and alt.. Ideas, suggestions or comments?? TIA!! Manuel Paredes 95 325i L.A. BMWCCA __________________________________ Yahoo! FareChase: Search multiple travel sites in one click. http://farechase.yahoo.com Search the ARCHIVES:http://www.mail-archive.com/[email protected] __________________________________________________________________________ In memory of Michel Potheau - friend, enthusiast, founder of the BMW CCA. UUC Motorwerks - BMW Performance Fine-tuning and home of the Ultimate Short Shifter - accept no substitutes! 908-874-9092 . http://www.uucmotorwerks.com ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 17 Nov 2005 17:08:20 -0800 (PST) From: Carlos Lopez <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: [EMAIL PROTECTED], [email protected] Subject: Re: <e36> Suspension set up Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> --- [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: > The next thing is to determine where to set the rear Koni's and >then what we have the alignment shop set the front toe to for >overall best handling. Zero toe up front always gets my vote. Carlos 98 M3 E30 325is __________________________________ Yahoo! FareChase: Search multiple travel sites in one click. http://farechase.yahoo.com ------------------------------ End of [bmwuucdigest] digest(13 messages) **********
