So riddle me this, Batman--does power come FROM the solid state relay, TO the 
p-stat--or the other way around?  If the former, then seems the relay is the 
culprit since the PID probably doesn't handle line voltage to the boiler, right?

I'll see if I can check input to the relay.

b

Sent from my apple IIe

> On Nov 27, 2015, at 12:04, Benjamin McCafferty <[email protected]> wrote:
> 
> At the rocker switch is 112.9.  At the outer two terminals of the PID with 
> the negative held to a ground bolt on the case is 113.2.  Center two 
> terminals of the PID are 4 or less.
> 
> Good thought on the ground, I'll check.  That was the culprit on old BMW 
> motorcycles more times than not...
> b
> 
> Sent from my apple IIe
> 
>> On Nov 27, 2015, at 11:55, herman dickens <[email protected]> wrote:
>> 
>> You could have a loose wire, but I doubt it. What's the voltage going into 
>> the pid? You could also have a bad ground. I've had that happen on other 
>> things and it causes the power to be all over the place.
>> 
>>> On Fri, Nov 27, 2015 at 2:45 PM, Benjamin McCafferty <[email protected]> 
>>> wrote:
>>> OK, update.
>>> 
>>> When I turn on the machine, I put a voltmeter across the pstat terminals.  
>>> While the steam boiler was heating, terminals 1/com and 4/no show 60 volts. 
>>>  1 and 2 of course show nothing.  If I reverse wires 2/nc and 4/no, then 
>>> cross pstat terminals 1 and 4, I get 120V.  Switching them back to their 
>>> normal configuration, once the steam boiler is heated and switched off, 
>>> crossing 1 and 2 shows 120V.
>>> 
>>> Now this is interesting.  I had suggested to Todd that the flickering of 
>>> the PID and the machine-gun thing make me thing of an under-current 
>>> situation, i.e. not enough power to make the relay fire crisply and all the 
>>> way.  I have also notice lately (though it didn't occur to me as to why), 
>>> that my steam boiler is being outrun when I steam milk.  Lastly, it took 
>>> forever for the vacuum breaker to seal shut just now; and it makes sense 
>>> since the steam element is only getting 60V.
>>> 
>>> So now the question becomes, why is reduced voltage happening on this one 
>>> wire?  It goes to the solid state relay on terminal 1/L1.
>>> 
>>> b
>>> 
>>> Sent from my apple IIe
>>> 
>>>> On Nov 27, 2015, at 11:24, Benjamin McCafferty <[email protected]> wrote:
>>>> 
>>>> Likewise.  It did occur to me that the pstat relies on a flexible rubber 
>>>> diaphragm; perhaps that has hardened over time as it sat on a shelf for 
>>>> three years.  Pinging Chris again; also, he had offered 20%, not 10%, my 
>>>> mistake.
>>>> Talk soon,
>>>> bmc
>>>> Sent from my apple IIe
>>>> 
>>>>> On Nov 27, 2015, at 11:17, herman dickens <[email protected]> wrote:
>>>>> 
>>>>> It seems like mine was around that date too. The second new one says 
>>>>> 4/15. They could have had a bad run of pstats or it could just be bad 
>>>>> luck. My last pstat lasted almost 8 years.
>>>>> 
>>>>>> On Fri, Nov 27, 2015 at 2:11 PM, Benjamin McCafferty <[email protected]> 
>>>>>> wrote:
>>>>>> Thanks Herman.
>>>>>> Pstat looks like mfg date of 6/12; shouldn't matter but there you go.  
>>>>>> Chris will give 10% discount on a new one, but still chaps my butt.
>>>>>> 
>>>>>> I'll try to pull the giemme cover and watch the relay--don't try this at 
>>>>>> home, kids!
>>>>>> 
>>>>>> I instinctively don't think the PID or element is bad, but will try the 
>>>>>> p-stat reversal thing and see where that takes me.
>>>>>> 
>>>>>> I'll post again in a bit.
>>>>>> 
>>>>>> b
>>>>>> 
>>>>>> Sent from my apple IIe
>>>>>> 
>>>>>>> On Nov 27, 2015, at 11:07, herman dickens <[email protected]> 
>>>>>>> wrote:
>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>> Ben fwiw it sounds like you have 2 problems. I had the same problem 
>>>>>>> with a pstat and it only lasted 2 months. The next one worked fine. 
>>>>>>> There should be a mfg date on the pstat. It seems like my first one was 
>>>>>>> several years old and the second one was this year. I was having the 
>>>>>>> same symptoms with the relief valve but no chatter. The chatter sounds 
>>>>>>> like a relay or a solenoid. Can you pull the cover off and look at the 
>>>>>>> relay while the chattering is going on? That might help narrow things 
>>>>>>> down. You could have a bad pid or element in the brew boiler causing 
>>>>>>> that not to get up to temp but honestly I don't work on these things 
>>>>>>> enough to do anything but guess. I just bought the pid upgrade for my 
>>>>>>> machine but I may hold off on installing it for a few more days. Maybe 
>>>>>>> Todd will jump in and give you some ideas.
>>>>>>> Herman
>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>>> On Fri, Nov 27, 2015 at 1:57 PM, Benjamin McCafferty 
>>>>>>>> <[email protected]> wrote:
>>>>>>>> Hey all!
>>>>>>>> Hope you all had a great thanksgiving and that you're all waking from 
>>>>>>>> your food comas.  I had more pie for breakfast, but alas, with no 
>>>>>>>> espresso.
>>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>>> I will be talking to Todd soon about this, but thought I'd also ping 
>>>>>>>> the collective and see if anyone has any ideas.  Unfortunately, I have 
>>>>>>>> a collection of symptoms at this point that I can't make fit a common 
>>>>>>>> cause; perhaps they will make sense to one of you.
>>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>>> As you may recall, I had quite a bit of trouble this summer, and 
>>>>>>>> during that process I replaced:
>>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>>> --Both hi-limit switches
>>>>>>>> --One or both boiler elements
>>>>>>>> --Giemme controller board with the updated one
>>>>>>>> --PID temp probe
>>>>>>>> --Main power switch
>>>>>>>> --New Jaeger pressure-stat
>>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>>> Also, as with this summer's shenanigans, my mom is visiting in two 
>>>>>>>> weeks, and dearly loves a good latte.  I spent several hundred on 
>>>>>>>> overnight charges, parts, etc. while she was here in the summer, and 
>>>>>>>> managed 2 days of lattes for her in her three-week visit.  Hoping to 
>>>>>>>> get the machine back in action fast!
>>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>>> At the same time I did all that work, I totally disassembled 
>>>>>>>> everything, descaled completely, and cleaned the solenoid until it was 
>>>>>>>> shiny, i.e. all scale removed, etc.  The solenoid functioned fine with 
>>>>>>>> power.
>>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>>> The machine worked normally from summer until this week, but with one 
>>>>>>>> weird symptom.  It would occasionally make a machine-gun noise, i.e. 
>>>>>>>> something mechanical opening and closing very rapidly, 5-10 times per 
>>>>>>>> second maybe.  To me, it is a higher pitched sound than the solenoid, 
>>>>>>>> and sounds like it originates from the area of the giemme controller.  
>>>>>>>> Todd suspected the solenoid might be sticking; I was thinking perhaps 
>>>>>>>> one of the two relays in the giemme controller was misfiring (not sure 
>>>>>>>> that they are even relays--but I'm referring to the two small sets of 
>>>>>>>> contacts in the giemme that look like points from a 
>>>>>>>> points-and-condensor ignition).  At its worst, this symptom would 
>>>>>>>> continue for 10+ seconds and I'd shut the machine off and back on; it 
>>>>>>>> would seem to "reset" and stop.  At its best, it would last for a few 
>>>>>>>> seconds and stop on its own.  It clearly is related to when the 
>>>>>>>> machine goes to refill the steam boiler, i.e. when closing the steam 
>>>>>>>> wand, dumping hot water boiler, etc. is when this would happen, very 
>>>>>>>> intermittently.
>>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>>> As of a week ago, the machine-gun thing got really bad, i.e. it 
>>>>>>>> happens 4-5 times while steaming enough milk for a latte, etc.  When 
>>>>>>>> shutting off the steam wand, when it goes to refill, the machine-gun 
>>>>>>>> noise happens every time and frequently does not stop.  As the machine 
>>>>>>>> sits at idle and occasionally refills the steam boiler, it also makes 
>>>>>>>> the noise every time.
>>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>>> At this point, it would seem to me that the culprit would be the 
>>>>>>>> giemme or the solenoid, but wait, there's more...
>>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>>> A few other symptoms have happened in the past week, which really 
>>>>>>>> confuse the issue for me, because I admittedly don't know exactly how 
>>>>>>>> electricity flows through the machine:
>>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>>> --The Jaeger P-stat has allowed the machine to over-pressure about 3 
>>>>>>>> times in 5 months, causing the blowoff to activate.  No way this 
>>>>>>>> should be happening with a new p-stat, but otherwise it has been 
>>>>>>>> normal.  As an aside, Chris Coffee will not warrant the p-stat, 
>>>>>>>> stating 30 days is the warranty from that manufacturer.  So I have a 
>>>>>>>> 90-day-old failing part that won't be covered. Unexpected.
>>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>>> --The PID display (which I have set to 204F) has stayed at 105F for 
>>>>>>>> several hours each morning for about four days in a row, and then 
>>>>>>>> later in the day, has heated to 204F.
>>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>>> --As of two days ago, the PID heated the brew boiler to 105F and 
>>>>>>>> stayed there all day, never heating to 204F.
>>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>>> --Earlier this week, one day only, the PID display was blank when the 
>>>>>>>> machine was on.  It remained blank for about an hour, then suddenly 
>>>>>>>> lit up.  It showed 105F.  Every time the steam boiler fired, the PID 
>>>>>>>> screen would flicker and get really dim, almost not visible.  Then it 
>>>>>>>> would brighten right back up when the steam boiler turned off.
>>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>>> --Most of the time (and this is an old thing, maybe normal), the PID 
>>>>>>>> numbers and "dot" will blink every few seconds, i.e. they go off for a 
>>>>>>>> split second, and then come back on.  The dot at this point will not 
>>>>>>>> stay on for more than a split second also, i.e. it never shows the 
>>>>>>>> boiler calling for heat once the steam boiler is off.
>>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>>> --The same day the PID display was blank and dim, there was a single 
>>>>>>>> time where the steam boiler filled, and then shut off (solenoid 
>>>>>>>> clicked), but the pump kept running indefinitely.  I finally had to 
>>>>>>>> turn off the machine to make it stop.  After power cycling the 
>>>>>>>> machine, the pump filled and stopped normally again.
>>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>>> --At this time, the steam boiler fills and heats normally, with the 
>>>>>>>> exception of the machine-gun noise, which happens almost every time.
>>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>>> OK--I think that's it.  I'm sorry if someone has told me this before, 
>>>>>>>> but I'm trying to understand first how electricity travels in the 
>>>>>>>> machine.  So far, the only thing that seems like a common point to all 
>>>>>>>> of these symptoms is the giemme controller, but that's based on my 
>>>>>>>> limited understanding.
>>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>>> How I *think* it works is this:  main power switch sends current to 
>>>>>>>> the giemme, which sends current to the pump and to the pressure stat 
>>>>>>>> (via the two "relays" in the giemme?).  If the steam boiler is not up 
>>>>>>>> to temp, the p-stat sends current to it until it is at pressure, then 
>>>>>>>> it sends current onward to the PID.  The PID sends that onwards in 
>>>>>>>> bursts via its solid-state relay to heat the brew boiler.  Meanwhile, 
>>>>>>>> the giemme sends current to the pump (via a relay?) and to the 
>>>>>>>> solenoid, so the solenoid closes, diverting water to the steam boiler, 
>>>>>>>> and the steam boiler fills.  When water touches the probe in the steam 
>>>>>>>> boiler, it essentially shorts out and stops the pump, and the solenoid 
>>>>>>>> opens, sending water line pressure to the brew boiler, which is held 
>>>>>>>> back by the group.  When the lever is lifted, the lever mechanically 
>>>>>>>> opens the group to let water through, and the switch behind the lever 
>>>>>>>> sends power to the pump to cause it to run and push water under 
>>>>>>>> pressure through the group.  If, while pulling a shot, the steam 
>>>>>>>> boiler level drops below its probe, the solenoid closes and interrupts 
>>>>>>>> water to the brew boiler/group until the steam boiler is filled again.
>>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>>> Does that sound about right?  Again, I would really like to understand 
>>>>>>>> this whole circuit, especially the giemme controller and what the two 
>>>>>>>> mechanical contacts are for on that board.
>>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>>> --Also, my PID is about 5-6 years old by now; what is the expected 
>>>>>>>> service life of those?
>>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>>> --Can I safely test the PID by reversing NO/NC terminals on the 
>>>>>>>> P-stat?  Wouldn't that have the effect of prioritizing the PID first?
>>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>>> OK, I'll stop.  Enjoy your leftovers, and have a good coffee for me!
>>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>>> best,
>>>>>>>> Ben McC
>>>>>>>> Sent from my apple IIe
>>>>>>>> 
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