--- In [email protected], "kandoro" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> > You sound like a salesperson trying to sell more expensive OEM > equipment AND who hasn't used the HP 130 too much... I'm not a Sales Person, I'm a tech guy. Yes, I've been dragged into the odd sales conversation and I don't spend too much time working WITH designjets, but I spend most of my time working ON designjets, that is, I have seen hundreds of ULE designjets (DNJ10PS-130) in pretty much every state you can imagine. I don't speak about anecdotical evidence, I speak about a broad sample of experience from CAD to fine art printing. And my experience is this: CISS, esp with rubbish ink, is the devil. It might work, but quite often it won't. If you're lucky it'll just ruin your PHs, if you're unlucky also your tubes your ISS and , well, pretty much everything that can be short circuited. And don't get my started on what flashed smartchips can do to your printer. EEROM reset anyone? I've seen quite a few CISS related write-offs. There are some good aftermarket inks (Pelikan, for example) and the ULEs with their Dye ink are a bit less picky. But it's still not without risk and one should be allowed to point that out. How much risk are you willing to take and how much do you value your time? That's what it boils down to. > Forget about the back unless you use light paper and the > roll > attachment... Unless your printer is sligtly bent, which happens quite often, the ULE chassis is streched to the limit on the 130, then you'll end up with a nasty skew. AN no, HP won't do anything about because the front path isn't specified for this kind of media and with normal paper it'll be within spec. I've seen this several times already. > Saying you will waste ink/canvas because of 3rd party inks is > ridiculous...Do you thinks HP actually makes their own > inks?...NOT... No they don't, but they offer working ICC profiles and guarantee consistency. Do you think 3rd parties keep their supply chain steady? Most brands are just resellers. Or how many run UV-Wool-scale tests? Check for Pantone compliance? Some do, sure, but the good ones aren't that much cheaper, and you never know what surprises they have in stock when it comes to longevity, laminating or not, not to mention that every laminated surface looks (and smells) sligtly different, I've seen people switch to pigment for that reason alone. > as one complete cartridge change...I've estimated at already saving > over a grand in ink costs... > Lucky you. But how much ink costs could you have saved with a bigger printer with bigger cartridges? Maybe not quite as much, but still substantial I guess. How much of your saved money did you spend on laminating spray that would have been redundant with pigment ink? And how much time could you have saved with a faster printer, or is that not a factor? Forgive me if I sound like a smartass, but I'm serious, every medal has two sides, and for a pure canvas application, I just don't feel comfortable recommending the 130 without pointing to the risks involved. See, I'm not a sales person, that's why ;-) > Cheers... > Cheers indeed. ------------------------------------ Website: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/HPDesignJet_Printers Post message: [email protected] Subscribe: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Unsubscribe: [EMAIL PROTECTED] List owner: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Yahoo! Groups Links <*> To visit your group on the web, go to: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/HPDesignJet_Printers/ <*> Your email settings: Individual Email | Traditional <*> To change settings online go to: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/HPDesignJet_Printers/join (Yahoo! ID required) <*> To change settings via email: mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] <*> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to: [EMAIL PROTECTED] <*> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to: http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
