Stus-List Re: Traveler sheet suggestions

[Chuck Gilchrest via CnC-List]

All the rope sold by Cajun is Novabraid.  The “fuzzy” rope is called EZ-Feel 
and uses spun polyester in the cover rather than filament polyester.  Softer on 
the hands but it tends to pick up dirt and grime a bit easier.  Trophy Braid 
from Samson uses the same formula as EZ-Feel.
Both will get the job done.
Chuck Gilchrest
Half Magic
1983 Landfall 35
Sent from my iPhone

> On May 17, 2024, at 5:41 PM, Rick Brass via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
> 
> My 38 has a 6:1 bridge deck traveler arrangement pretty similar to what you 
> have. I also use a double braid line which might be either 5/16ths or 3/8ths 
> (I'm getting older and forget stuff). But what I have was purchased from 
> Cajun Trading. Pretty similar to Sta-Set, but with a softer, sort of fuzzy, 
> texture that is easier on the hand and not as slippery. I forget what they 
> call that particular line. (See comment about aging above.)
>  
> On the 25, all of the sheets are the fuzzy braid from Cajun Trading. The boat 
> has been used only for recreational daysails for some time, and the softer 
> lines are a lot easier on the hands of inexperienced guests while high 
> performance is not real critical for the use we do.
>  
> Rick Brass
> Imzadi (C 38 mkll)
> La Belle Aurore (C 25 mk1)
>  
> Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and help 
> me pay the associated bills.  Make a contribution at:
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> Thanks for your help.
> Stu
Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and help 
me pay the associated bills.  Make a contribution at:
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
Thanks for your help.
Stu

Stus-List Re: C 40 Review

[Chuck Gilchrest via CnC-List]

David,
We had many of good battles with Corsair when I sailed on Zoomer, another great 
C 40.  I miss those days.  Looking back, it was 15 years since we did our 
last Vineyard Round the Island race on Zoomer.  Someone told me she’s now in 
Newport RI but never confirmed..
Chuck Gilchrest
Half Magic
1983 Landfall 35
Padanaram,MA
Sent from my iPhone

> On Apr 26, 2024, at 11:25 AM, David Risch via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> 
> That is Corsair.  Now located on Long Island and is for sale.
>  
> From: Bill Coleman via CnC-List 
> Sent: Friday, April 26, 2024 11:16 AM
> To: Stus-List 
> Cc: Bill Coleman 
> Subject: Stus-List C 40 Review
>  
> Nice Review in Practical Sailor on the C 40
>  
> https://www.practical-sailor.com/sailboat-reviews/cc-40-still-turning-heads?MailingID=1633=GB20240426-FixItAndSail=email_source=ActiveCampaign_medium=email_content=C%26C%2040%20Used%20Boat%20Review_campaign=GB20240426-FixItAndSail
>  
>  
> Bill Coleman
> Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and help 
> me pay the associated bills.  Make a contribution at:
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> Thanks for your help.
> Stu
Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and help 
me pay the associated bills.  Make a contribution at:
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
Thanks for your help.
Stu

Stus-List Re: Rebuilding Rudder

[Chuck Gilchrest via CnC-List]

If adding grease to the rudder post grease cup does allow for smoother operation, the likely culprit is a build up of marine growth, especially if cables have been disconnected from the radial drive and friction still occurs.  Or it could be a bent rudder post (any recent groundings?).  Either condition involves dropping the rudder which can’t happen in the water.Chuck GilchrestFormer Edson guySent from my iPhoneOn Apr 17, 2024, at 11:43 AM, ALAN BERGEN via CnC-List  wrote:Epoxyworks is a free quarterly publication from West Systems. Each issue has interesting articles by people who have done projects using West Systems epoxy. I submitted an article, that was published, about building a wood strip kayak.Alan Bergen35 Mk III ThirstyRose City YCPortland, OROn Wed, Apr 17, 2024 at 7:15 AM Bill Coleman via CnC-List  wrote:Interesting DIY in Epoxyworks about rebuilding a waterlogged C 32 Rudder.https://www.epoxyworks.com/index.php/replacing-wet-core-in-rudder/?utm_source=newsletter_medium=email_campaign=EW_58_content=another-spadeBill ColemanErie, PA
Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and help me pay the associated bills.  Make a contribution at:
https://urldefense.com/v3/__https://www.paypal.me/stumurray__;!!LIr3w8kk_Xxm!shmoW5CsBMcuNtvRcHLj1WBjNIvbEtZ28tUXA2eG2-tLAHuGdyVfLdPZA-4hpRADe9lvs1BMVqoAWUZLdytnbSw$ 
Thanks for your help.
Stu
Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and help me pay the associated bills.  Make a contribution at:https://www.paypal.me/stumurrayThanks for your help.StuPlease show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and help 
me pay the associated bills.  Make a contribution at:
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
Thanks for your help.
Stu

Stus-List Re: Pedestal brand

[Chuck Gilchrest via CnC-List]

It might be a Morch pedestal which appeared on several C yachts in the early 
years.  Take a picture and post a link to that photo and I can probably 
identify it.  For the record, parts for a Morch pedestal are pretty much 
unicorns at this point.
Chuck Gilchrest 
Former Edson guy
Landfall 35

Sent from my iPhone

> On Apr 27, 2023, at 10:57 AM, Don Kern via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
>  Bob
> 
> Can't answer for a '71 C 35, but my '74 Mk2 has a Edson.  When I talk to 
> them for a repair kit they had no record/data sheet for the mk2's 
> instillation.  But, the tag on inside of pedestal said it was a Edson.
> 
> Don Kern
> Fireball, C Mk2
> Bristol, RI
> 
> 
> On 4/27/2023 10:08 AM, Bob Mann via CnC-List wrote:
>> Does anyone know the pedestal brand C used in 1971 (35 mk I)?  I've been 
>> talking with Edson and he doesn't believe it's one of theirs.
>> 
>> Bob
>> 
>> 
>> Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and 
>> help me pay the associated bills.  Make a contribution at:
>> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>> Thanks for your help.
>> Stu
> 
> Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and help 
> me pay the associated bills.  Make a contribution at:
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> Thanks for your help.
> Stu
Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and help 
me pay the associated bills.  Make a contribution at:
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
Thanks for your help.
Stu

Stus-List Re: C 37+ Edson chain and wire spec

[Chuck Gilchrest via CnC-List]

When I worked at Edson, you could determine the parts installed in a particular 
boat by the pedestal serial number, located under the compass.   Edson kept 
invoices arranged by the numeric order of the serial number that showed what 
components were sold along with the pedestal.
Since Edson has new ownership as of 2 years ago, they may no longer keep those 
records but you can give it a whirl.  
But in Edson’s defense, how many marine components suppliers know exactly what 
gear was installed into boats 30-40 years ago when the builder went out of 
business?  Saying they have bad customer service because C chose to change a 
rather standard component installation on a single model is a bit harsh in my 
opinion.  The mere fact that most of their gear has held up over time with 
minimal attention to servicing and maintenance speaks for itself.
Chuck Gilchrest 
S/V Half Magic
1983 Landfall 35

Stus-List Re: Winter storage options near Buzzards Bay, MA

[Chuck Gilchrest via CnC-List]

Did you try Concordia in S. Dartmouth?  Not cheap and they don’t allow much 
work to be done by owners, but they have quite a bit of property.  
Chuck Gilchrest 

Sent from my iPhone

> On Sep 20, 2022, at 1:28 PM, Danny Haughey via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> 
> Holey cow!  All these yards are full and a few are taking names for a waiting 
> list!  I might just be in a Pickle here...
> 
> -- Original Message --
> From: DJ via CnC-List 
> To: Stus-List 
> Cc: DJ 
> Subject: Stus-List Re: Winter storage options near Buzzards Bay, MA
> Date: Sun, 18 Sep 2022 08:08:57 -0400
> 
> That's good info Neil,  thanks! 
> 
> On Sep 17, 2022 12:05 PM, Neil Gallagher via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> My info might be a bit old but when I bought my boat it had been in Somerset 
> Marina for 3 yrs on the hard.  It was marginal for a 35' sailboat, could only 
> launch at high tide, had to bring in an outside crane to hoist a mast more 
> than 50'.  On the other hand it was a good place for DIY, they didn't care 
> what you did on the boat.  The yard crew was good, the owner bit of a crank.  
> Use with caution, I guess.
> 
> Neil Gallagher
> Weatherly, 35-1
> Glen Cove, NY
> 
> On 9/17/2022 11:53 AM, Andrew Burton via CnC-List wrote:
> No. I don't know anything about any of these yards except that they aren't 
> owned by Safe Harbor.
> Andy
> 
> Andrew Burton
> 26 Beacon Hill
> Newport, RI
> USA 02840
> http://sites.google.com/site/andrewburtonyachtservices/
> 
> phone  +401 965 5260
> 
> On Sat, Sep 17, 2022 at 11:49 AM Danny Haughey via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> Thanks Andy!   Taunton river sounds convenient for winter work!  Close to the 
> house!
>  
> I was also considering somerset marina on the Taunton River.  Any thoughts on 
> that facility? 
> 
> On Sep 17, 2022 11:14 AM, Andrew Burton via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> Danny, 
> Check out Stanley's in Bristol and Shaws, O'connell's and Bristol Marine up 
> the Taunton River. I think everything else in Narragansett Bay is owned by 
> Safe Harbor.
> Andy
> 
> Andrew Burton
> 26 Beacon Hill
> Newport, RI
> USA 02840
> http://sites.google.com/site/andrewburtonyachtservices/
> 
> phone  +401 965 5260
> 
> On Sat, Sep 17, 2022 at 10:36 AM Danny Haughey via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> Hello all, 
> Was wondering if anyone had any suggestions for winter storage somewhere 
> around Buzzards Bay. Narragansett bay is an option too. 
>  
> The yard I was using needs to drop the mast and they can be a little clumsy. 
> They've damaged my boat several times in their handling and I've done a 
> massive amount of cosmetic work over the last couple of years that I'd like 
> to protect. 
>  
> I've also just completely rehabbed the mast. So, dropping it seems like a 
> waste of effort and cost right now. So, I'd like to find a mast up solution 
> if possible. 
>  
> Thanks for any insights anyone can offer! 
>  
> Danny
> Rum Runner IV
> T40
> Mattapoisett MA

Stus-List Re: Defender Sale

[Chuck Gilchrest via CnC-List]

Danny and listers,
This year’s Defender Spring sale is dramatically different than the pre 
pandemic in person sales. The retail store is limited to 40 customers at a time 
and the only manufacturer reps on hand are from the paint companies.  I’ve been 
a vendor to Defender for over 20 years and worked their sale every year.  But 
we were not asked to participate. The good deals are still there, but no 
different from what you will pay online.  Where once you had a close out room 
for heavily discounted clothing and shoes, you may find special deals now 
online.  New owners at Defender plus the uncertainty of holding a large in 
person event when planning for all circumstances forced them to prioritize the 
online aspect of their spring sale, which saw substantial growth even before 
the Covid shutdown.
Chuck Gilchrest 
1983 Landfall 35
Half Magic
Padanaram MA

Stus-List Re: Landfall 35 for parts, etc

[Chuck Gilchrest via CnC-List]

Andy,
Would you let me know the name or contact for the yard?  I could use several 
bits for spares and such.
Chuck Gilchrest 
csgilchr...@comcast.net
Landfall 35 Half Magic

Sent from my iPhone

> On Feb 16, 2022, at 5:01 PM, Andrew Burton via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> 
> Good day, everyone. There is a poor abandoned Landfall 35 on the Eastern 
> Shore of MD that will soon be consigned to the dumpster. It’s in rotten shape 
> from the outside. If anyone wants it or wants parts, I’m sure the yard would 
> be amenable to letting you have what you need before it gets chucked.
> Let me know if you’re interested and I’ll put you in touch with the yard.
> 
> Andy
> 
> Andrew Burton
> 26 Beacon Hill
> Newport, RI 
> USA02840
> 
> http://sites.google.com/site/andrewburtonyachtservices/
> +401 965-5260
> cnc-list.cnc-list.com -- cnc-list@cnc-list.com
cnc-list@cnc-list.com ---nore...@development.harmonylists.io

Stus-List Re: 12 volt DC power supply

[Chuck Gilchrest via CnC-List]

I have something similar that came with my boat. PO was a live aboard and was 
plugged into shore power. Rather than running most of his 12v items off house 
batteries, he plugged the 12v power supply into a 110 outlet onboard and 
powered the 12v side of the panel (lights, propane solenoid, bilge pumps, etc) 
using the 12v source.  I guess to prevent running his batteries down..
I’m on a mooring so I removed it and installed an inverter/ battery charger 
that I can run off my solar panels.
Chuck Gilchrest 
1983 LF 35

Sent from my iPhone

> On Dec 6, 2021, at 4:05 PM, Bill Coleman via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
> 
> This is what I use, it is sweet on many levels.
>  
> https://powerwerx.com/variable-power-supply-digital-meters-30amp
>  
>  
> Bill Coleman
> Entrada, Erie, PA
>  
>  
>  
> From: Dennis C. via CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com] 
> Sent: Monday, December 06, 2021 3:39 PM
> To: CnClist
> Cc: Dennis C.
> Subject: Stus-List 12 volt DC power supply
>  
> Over the years, I've found a need for 12 volt power.  For instance, if I 
> wanted to test a marine GPS or VHF.  My answer is usually to attach wires 
> with alligators clips to the battery in my truck or to a 12 volt jump 
> starter.  This is less than ideal..
>  
> I know there are inexpensive 120 VAC/12 volt power supplies out there.  I see 
> them on eBay, Amazon, etc.  Many are just a box with no 120 VAC wire and 
> plug.  Like this:
>  
> https://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/MEAN-WELL/RS-15-12?qs=ql1K%252BkDau3qz9%252BonMzIW2g%3D%3D=1
>  
> Ideally, I would like one that already has the 120 VAC cord and has a 
> terminal strip to insert the stripped power wires of the device I'm testing.  
> Can some of you hobbyists point me towards an inexpensive but decent power 
> supply?  It need not be powerful.  10 watts would probably suffice.
>  
> --
> Dennis C.
> Touche' 35-1 #83
> Mandeville, LA
> Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with 
> the costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use 
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu
Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List Re: C to race - cold weather discussion topic

[Chuck Gilchrest via CnC-List]

Dennis,
So many variables.  Location, prevailing conditions, local coastal or offshore 
events.
I would probably lean towards a 34R with new sails including an Assym and 
Symmetrical Chute, a baby smooth bottom job, and really good beer so I could 
attract the best possible crew.  And let someone really good drive because I am 
terrible driving upwind.
Chuck Gilchrest 
S/V Half Magic 
Padanaram MA

Sent from my iPhone

> On Nov 29, 2021, at 3:58 PM, Dennis C. via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
> 
> If one was to buy a C to totally trick out for handicap racing, which model 
> would you buy and why?
> 
> What modifications would you make if you had a bunch of boat bucks?
> 
> !!!  Don't forget to trim your responses if this thread builds.  !!!
> 
> -- 
> Dennis C.
> Touche' 35-1 #83
> Mandeville, LA
> Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with 
> the costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use 
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu
Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List Re: Edson Steering Sheave Assembly Bolt Failure.

[Chuck Gilchrest via CnC-List]

Older Edson pedestals use 4” Countersunk flathead bolt and nuts made of 
aluminum.  The reason for that material was to minimize paint adhesion issues 
on the powder coated pedestal base.  However, Edson neglected to use aluminum 
idler plate assemblies below deck choosing to use painted steel which meant 
that over time, the idler would rust and the bolts would eventually corrode.
EDson did away with the mild steel idlers about 15 years ago and now makes them 
out of aluminum.
The best set up for your boat is probably a new idler and 4 new aluminum bolts 
which will minimize corrosion issues.
Chuck Gilchrest 
Half Magic
LF35
Sent from my iPhone

> On Nov 20, 2021, at 12:26 PM, CHARLES SCHEAFFER via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> 
> 
> FWIW, found this on Edson site: 
> 
> "Since 1987, all Edson Pedestals use the exclusive Edson Hex Head Aluminum 
> Bolts. With this improvement they lock in place and require only one person 
> to tighten them. They fit flush with the base and the aluminum alloy is the 
> same as the base thus eliminating all reaction from dissimilar."
> 
> Chuck S
>>> On 11/20/2021 10:50 AM Jeffrey A. Laman via CnC-List 
>>>  wrote:
>>> 
>>> 
>>> C Listers,
>>> I have only been casually following this thread, but just a short comment.  
>>> My pedestal bolts are SS and in fresh water of L. Mich.  Might have been PO 
>>> who replaced? No issues.  Aluminum is actually a very reactive metal.  This 
>>> is a good discussion for a chemist, but if exposed to salt water, it would 
>>> seem that aluminum bolts are not the best choice.  If there is concern 
>>> about the dissimilar metals of the pedestal and bolts, isolate with nylon 
>>> washers.  My 2 cents.
>>> Jeff Laman
>>> 1981 C "Harmony"
>>> Ludington, MI 
>>> 
>>> 
>>> From: CHARLES SCHEAFFER via CnC-List 
>>> Sent: Saturday, November 20, 2021 10:38 AM
>>> To: Stus-List 
>>> Cc: John McCrea ; CHARLES SCHEAFFER 
>>> 
>>> Subject: Stus-List Re: Edson Steering Sheave Assembly Bolt Failure.
>>> 
>>> Not sure why the the aluminum failed.  It sounds like it became an anode 
>>> somehow.
>>> 
>>> In 2015, I replaced our pedestal bolts and nuts with aluminum ones from 
>>> Edson.  On our model, the hex head of the bolt, sits in a hex sided well in 
>>> the pedestal base so it doesn't turn.   You tighten the nuts from below.  
>>> The old bolts might have been reused, but something about them worried me, 
>>> so I chose to use new bolts and nuts. 
>>> 
>>> I learned later that McMaster-Carr has both aluminum and stainless which 
>>> you can get next day, so you may want to compare prices.
>>> 
>>> Chuck Scheaffer Resolute 1989 C 34R Annapolis
>>> 
>>> On 11/20/2021 10:08 AM John McCrea via CnC-List  
>>> wrote:
>>> 
>>> 
>>> Yes they are the four through bolts that hold the pedestal in place. I will 
>>> contact Edson for replacements just curious if anyone else had them fail. 
>>> Will also be resealing pedestal to stop water intrusion. Thanks. 
>>> 
>>> Sent from my iPhone
>>> 
 On Nov 20, 2021, at 8:02 AM, Steve Thomas via CnC-List 
  wrote: 
 
 I believe that the bolts in question are the through-the-deck bolts that 
 secure the pedestal to the deck. They are also the only aluminum bolts 
 that I know of that were once "standard" on Edson pedestal steering 
 systems. If I am wrong on the latter, I am certain that others will chime 
 in. :) 
 Steve Thomas
 
 1980 C MKI
 
 1978 C MKIII
 
 
 
 -- Original Message -- 
 From: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
 To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
 Cc: shawngwri...@gmail.com 
 Sent: Friday, November 19, 2021 8:42 PM 
 Subject: Stus-List Re: Edson Steering Sheave Assembly Bolt Failure. 
 
 Can you share any photos of the bolts in question? Are these above deck, 
 or below? I'm not aware of any aluminum bolts in my pedestal, but they may 
 have been replaced with stainless steel. There is one SS round head 
 machine screw that is loose and has no material left to grab (threads 
 stripped out) on one of the aluminum pieces which fit over the SS tubing 
 at the deck level. As the pedestal is solid, I've ignored it for now. 
 Everything below deck looks good also, but it's been a year since I 
 checked so it's on the list.
 
 --
 Shawn Wright
 shawngwri...@gmail.com 
 S/V Callisto, 1974 C 35
 https://www.facebook.com/SVCallisto 
 
 
 On Fri, Nov 19, 2021 at 1:19 PM John McCrea via CnC-List 
  wrote: 
 All,
 
 
 
 I was aware that my bolts in my steering assembly below the pedestal were 
 failing when I noticed a gap on the bow side of the sheave assembly this 
 summer. After trying to tighten one of the aluminum bolts it crumbled. Had 
 two remaining good ones in the stern and limped the way through the 
 remainder of the season. Today loosened the steering cables to start to 
 take apart the assembly with the intent of 

Stus-List Re: C 121 in a pickle

[Chuck Gilchrest via CnC-List]

Any thoughts I had about becoming a delivery skipper as a retirement “career” 
have dissolved and disappeared after reading this thread..
Best of luck Randy on the remainder of the voyage and keeping fingers crossed 
for Calypso.
Chuck Gilchrest 
Half Magic
Landfall 35

Sent from my iPhone

> On Nov 12, 2021, at 1:18 PM, Randal Stafford via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> Thank you Dennis and all who replied. I just got a cell signal off Tortola, 
> about 25nm ahead.
> 
> As of this morning Calypso was some 200nm astern of us; we’re heading 214M to 
> the western tip of Jost.  In addition to her previous troubles (broken 
> forestay, wrapped prop, etc.) now apparently her autopilot has also failed.  
> But her owner is apparently determined to continue to Antigua, and borrow 
> fuel to do so, instead of ducking a closer port for repairs. I gather someone 
> dived the prop to clear it.
> 
> There was a nasty storm between the Carolina coast and Bermuda last weekend. 
> PredictWind showed 50 knots forecast, and by last Friday Chris Parker was 
> advising boats to get as far south and east as they could, as fast as 
> possible.
> 
> I’m crewing the delivery of a Fountaine Pajot Saona 47 from Newport to St. 
> Thomas.  We sailed over 300 miles out of our way, almost to the 61st 
> meridian, to avoid that storm, adding two days to our trip. And still we saw 
> 41-knot gusts last Saturday or Sunday night.  And due to that big low 
> pressure system, the wind was out of the south for days instead of the usual 
> easterlies, hampering our progress to the Caribbean.
> 
> Anyway, I think Calypso was in the darkest red part of that storm and got 
> beat up pretty badly.
> 
> The delivery captain on my boat, Scott, has a friend Vinny who is delivering 
> another boat to Antigua in the Salty Dog Rally, with the owners aboard.  They 
> were the closest vessel to Calypso when her distress call came in, and went 
> to assist her. Vinny texted Scott about the situation, including issues with 
> crew dynamics on Calypso. 
> 
> Last night we could have diverted six or eight hours to rendezvous with 
> Calypso, but didn’t want to give away our fuel to a captain making (in our 
> opinion) unreasonable decisions.  So we never met up.
> 
> As far as I know, Calypso’s owner is not on this mail list.
> 
> Cheers,
> Randy
> 
> Sent from my iPhone
> 
>>> On Nov 9, 2021, at 3:26 PM, Dennis C. via CnC-List  
>>> wrote:
>>> 
>> 
>> Chuck is correct.
>> 
>> I'm assuming that the 121 Calypso is the one making 5 knots trailing the 
>> fleet.
>> 
>> --
>> Dennis C.
>> Touche' 35-1 #83
>> Mandeville, LA
>> 
>>> On Tue, Nov 9, 2021 at 1:13 PM Chuck Gilchrest via CnC-List 
>>>  wrote:
>>> Joe, 
>>> Randy’s boat Grenadine is on the hard in Colorado for the season.  Randy is 
>>> on a delivery on a different boat.  The delivery skipper’s friend is 
>>> sailing Calypso  which lost its headstay.  At least that’s what I read into 
>>> this.  
>>> Chuck Gilchrest 
>>> 
>>> Sent from my iPhone
>>> 
>>>>> On Nov 9, 2021, at 2:03 PM, Joe Della Barba via CnC-List 
>>>>>  wrote:
>>>>> 
>>>> 
>>>> https://forecast.predictwind.com/tracking/rally/2021-sdsa-caribbean-rally/
>>>> 
>>>>  
>>>> 
>>>> No Grenadine shows up, but two Calypsos do. One is making 5 knots and the 
>>>> other is in Marsh Harbor.
>>>> 
>>>>  
>>>> 
>>>>  
>>>> 
>>>> Joe Della Barba
>>>> 
>>>> Coquina C 35 MK I
>>>> 
>>>> Kent Island MD USA
>>>> 
>>>>  
>>>> 
>>>>  
>>>> 
>>>>  
>>>> 
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with 
>> the costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use 
>> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - 
>> Stu
> Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with 
> the costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use 
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu
Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List Re: C 121 in a pickle

[Chuck Gilchrest via CnC-List]

Joe, 
Randy’s boat Grenadine is on the hard in Colorado for the season.  Randy is on 
a delivery on a different boat.  The delivery skipper’s friend is sailing 
Calypso  which lost its headstay.  At least that’s what I read into this.  
Chuck Gilchrest 

Sent from my iPhone

> On Nov 9, 2021, at 2:03 PM, Joe Della Barba via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> 
> https://forecast.predictwind.com/tracking/rally/2021-sdsa-caribbean-rally/
>  
> No Grenadine shows up, but two Calypsos do. One is making 5 knots and the 
> other is in Marsh Harbor.
>  
>  
> Joe Della Barba
> Coquina C 35 MK I
> Kent Island MD USA
>  
>  
>  
> From: Dennis C. via CnC-List  
> Sent: Tuesday, November 9, 2021 1:16 PM
> To: CnClist 
> Cc: Dennis C. 
> Subject: Stus-List C 121 in a pickle
>  
> Early this morning, I got a text from Randy Stafford (S/V Grenadine) of this 
> list.  He is helping bring a boat from Newport to USVI.  The text was 
> apparently from the delivery skipper's GPS tracker.
>  
> A friend of the delivery skipper is helping sail a C 121 to Antigua.  It 
> was in the Salty Dogs Rally.  They lost their forestay and are limping along. 
>  Last position 26' 36"N 66' 32"W.  Randy's boat was at 26' 53"N 61' 41"W.  
> They may try to donate some fuel if they get close.
>  
> Anyway, the C 121 is S/V Calypso.  Google turns up a blog.  
> http://svcalypso52726.blogspot.com/  Homeport Mount Sinai, NY.  Don't know if 
> this is the boat.
>  
> Any lister familiar with this 121?
>  
> --
> Dennis C.
> Touche' 35-1 #83
> Mandeville, LA
> Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with 
> the costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use 
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu
Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List Re: [EXTERNAL] Main halyard shackle

[Chuck Gilchrest via CnC-List]

Two reasons for a headboard shackle on the main rather than a snap swivel:
Headboard shackles are designed to accommodate a longer length from the sail 
cringle to the edge of the sail which generally is a fixed U shaped forging. 
This is much stronger than a pivoting closure that is found on a swiveling snap 
shackle of equal length.
A snap swivel shackle is specifically built to allow the sail to twist and 
rotate under load, especially when used with a spinnaker.  Hoisting loads on a 
mainsail are far more linear and rotation is less important.  Also, headboard 
shackles are less expensive.
Chuck Gilchrest 
Half Magic
LF 35
Sent from my iPhone

> On Nov 9, 2021, at 8:17 AM, Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> 
> I don’t use a snap shackle any more for the jib, since it stays up for months 
> at a time or more. It is a screw-in shackle with safety wire holding it.
> The main shackle is one that screws in and out. It has never loosened itself. 
> I think the longest the main has been up continuously is maybe 6 or 7 days 
> and it did fine.
> Joe
> Coquina
>  
> From: David Knecht via CnC-List  
> Sent: Tuesday, November 9, 2021 7:52 AM
> To: CnC CnC discussion list 
> Cc: David Knecht 
> Subject: [EXTERNAL] Stus-List Main halyard shackle
>  
> My boat came with a main halyard shackle of a type I have never seen anywhere 
> else.  It has a pivoting arm that swings up after inserting through the 
> headboard and secured with a threaded pin.  It has worked fine for years and 
> easy to remove and attach, which I do routinely when done sailing for the 
> day.  Recently, I twice found it nearly completely unscrewed after a day of 
> rough weather sailing, and that is concerning.  I don’t want to lose the 
> halyard up the mast.  I am considering replacing it this winter with a 
> standard snap shackle of the sort used on my genoa halyard.  I looked at a 
> rigging company web site and they used snap shackles for genoa halyards and 
> pin shackles for main halyards.  The logic of that escapes me.   On my boat, 
> I take down the roller furling genoa only a few times a season while the main 
> halyard is detached every time I go sailing.  I have no idea what the forces 
> are on the main halyard but I would not think much greater than the genoa.  
> Any words of wisdom, or reason not to use a snap shackle for the main?  
> Thanks- Dave
>  
> David Knecht
> S/V Aries
> 1990 C 34+
> New London, CT
> 
> 
>  
>  
> 
> Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with 
> the costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use 
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu
Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List Re: Engine controls and Auto Pilots

[Chuck Gilchrest via CnC-List]

Thanks folks for the input on the feasibility of using the wheel pilot with a 
vessel the size and displacement of Half Magic.  I recently brought a Cape Dory 
36 with a wheel pilot from Narragansett Bay to Martha’s Vineyard and while it 
has limits It worked great on the much heavier boat. Not in 25 kts, but just 
fine in 15 kts.

What I want the pilot to do is to keep the boat on a heading when I set or 
douse sails, or go to pick up a mooring. No passagemaking…

But please reread my initial question:  Will a new Raymarine EV100 wheel pilot 
(not the belt kind) fit an Edson pedestal with a model 737 Dual Lever ( unique 
to C& C) engine control without interfering with the control housing?
That’s what I’m really needing to know before making a purchase.  If the answer 
is no, I defer a few more years to buy the significantly more expensive below 
deck pilot and sail the boat a whole lot less until then.

Sent from my iPhone

> On Oct 22, 2021, at 3:29 PM, Doug via CnC-List  wrote:
> 
> 
> Is like Gorillas and guérillas? 
> 
> 
> 
> Doug Mountjoy 
> sv Rebecca Leah 
> C & C Landfall 39
> Port Orchard Yacht Club 
> Port Orchard, WA
> 
> 
>  Original message 
> From: Don Kern via CnC-List 
> Date: 10/22/21 12:13 (GMT-08:00)
> To: Stus-List 
> Cc: Don Kern 
> Subject: Stus-List Re: Engine controls and Auto Pilots
> 
> Chuck
> minor typo!  Fat fingers!! - should have been 20 kts not 29.
> Don
> 
> On 10/22/2021 2:51 PM, Don Kern via CnC-List wrote:
>> Chuck
>> 
>> I have a C 35 Mk2 that has the older Raymarine ST4000 autopilot which is 
>> being used at its upper limits.  It does Ok up to about 20kts on Narra Bay, 
>> Buzzards Bay and Long Island Sound.  Have never engaged it above 20 kts. The 
>> only problem I have had is the the three plastic "U" brackets that connect 
>> the unit to the helms spoke have cracked and needed to be replaced.  I think 
>> this was due to the Edson pedestal's brake which has become none functional 
>> and I initially used the Autohelm to lock the rudder when at anchor/mooring. 
>>  Not too smart!!
>> 
>> Don Kern
>> Fireball, C Mk2
>> Bristol, RI 
>> 
>> 
>> On 10/22/2021 12:10 PM, Novabraid via CnC-List wrote:
>>> I’m contemplating adding a new wheel mount auto pilot (Raymarine EV-100) on 
>>> my 1983 Landfall 35, equipped with an Edson 737 dual lever engine control 
>>> (the type with the two extra stainless tubes that carry the control 
>>> cables). I was curious to see if anyone on the list may have attempted to 
>>> add this style auto pilot to their boat using the same engine control to 
>>> see if there were any clearance issues between the autopilot motor/drive 
>>> unit and the control housing.  This type engine control extends below the 
>>> top of the pedestal (beneath the compass) and has up/down levers on port 
>>> and starboard.
>>> I am aware that I’m at the top end of the displacement range for a wheel 
>>> pilot, however my main reason for wanting a pilot in the first place is to 
>>> facilitate single handing the boat for setting and dousing sails as well as 
>>> picking up moorings, etc.  I’m not looking to cross oceans, just simple 
>>> coastal cruising but since my primary crew member has moved out West, not 
>>> having an auto pilot means the boat will sit on the mooring far more often. 
>>>   A below deck pilot brings with it the challenge of where to mount the 
>>> drive unit and the cost of the more expensive pilot, the Edson tiller arm, 
>>> and the fabrication of a shelf to mount the drive unit.
>>>  
>>> Thanks for any advice.
>>> Chuck Gilchrest
>>> S/V Half Magic
>>> 1983 Landfall 35
>>> Padanaram, MA
>>>  
>>> 
>>> 
>>> Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with 
>>> the costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use 
>>> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - 
>>> Stu
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with 
>> the costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use 
>> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - 
>> Stu
> 
> Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with 
> the costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use 
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu
Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List Re: Solar charger

[Chuck Gilchrest via CnC-List]

Bill,
I have 2 semi rigid 100w solar panels mounted on the Bimini which feed a Renogy 
40amp regulator that service 2 group 31 house batteries and group 27 starter 
battery.  Also in play is a 2000watt Xantrex charger/inverter which only gets 
used for periodic winter battery charging when the boat is shrink wrapped and 
AC power when at the mooring or underway.  I can run a toaster oven/ or single 
cup Keurig with the set up I have now.  Re-plumbing the OEM refrigerator (Adler 
Barber Cold Machine) to mitigate coolant leaks will see how well the system 
holds up to keep cold beverages onboard. Talking to systems people at boat 
shows are encouraging.
I would make sure your solar chargers use a regulator and are properly fused 
otherwise your batteries can get overcharged 
Chuck Gilchrest 
S/V Half Magic
83 Landfall 35
Padanaram MA

Sent from my iPhone

> On Oct 9, 2021, at 12:03 PM, WILLIAM WALKER via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> 
> Good morning!
> First, I am not an electrical engineer.  So I would appreciate keeping that 
> in mind.
> What I would appreciate is a recommendation with specific model, make, etc. 
> Of a solar charger with any gizmos built in that could keep my house 
> batteries, two agm (I think 200 amp hour?) topped up while on my mooring. I 
> am thinking of installing a plug in lazarette wired to batteries that could 
> receive  plug from the solar charger.  Not trying to run my refrigeration, 
> but boy that would be nice!  Cold beer when I arrive.
> Bill Walker
> CnC 36
> Pentwater, Mi.
>   
> Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with 
> the costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use 
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu
Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List Re: Insurance

[Chuck Gilchrest via CnC-List]

I got a “classic boat” policy for my 83 Landfall 35 through Hagerty which is 
underwritten through Essentia Insurance.  This last year they automatically 
increased the loss replacement value due to market changes, but the premium 
increase was nominal (about 2%).  They do have  5 year survey requirement that 
includes a mast down rig inspection.  My surveyor is a former C owner and 
differentiates an insurance survey from a purchase survey which has kept costs 
at a reasonable level.  My insurance agent is a very accomplished sailor and I 
have no doubt he’d go to bat for me in the event of a serious claim.  Perhaps 
I’m paying a slight amount more by using an agency who gets a commission but 
I’ve seen my agent out at the waterfront at 7am after a named storm passed 
through, helping secure boats and assessing damage and arranging towing.  Worth 
every cent in my opinion.
Chuck Gilchrest 
S/V Half Magic
1983 Landfall 35
Padanaram,MA

Sent from my iPhone

> On Sep 25, 2021, at 10:31 AM, Steve Thomas via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> 
> That may be true for new policies, or in your location, or something to do 
> with your agent, but Progressive refused to write a liability-only policy for 
> my 1980 sailboat in central Florida 5 years ago. They put a low valuation on 
> the boat and a considerable deductible, which effectively made it 
> liability-only, but it still wound up costing over $800 USD per year. 
> 
> Steve Thomas
> 
> C MKI 
> 
> Merritt Island, FL
> 
> -- Original Message --
> From: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> Cc: rockybazem...@gmail.com
> Sent: Friday, September 24, 2021 10:23 AM
> Subject: Stus-List Re: Insurance
> 
> Just looked into it and Progressive is only liability coverage for boats over 
> 20 years old. If your boat gets struck by lighting or sinks you get $0. Guess 
> I'll stick with Geico. I got struck by lightning last year and they fixed 
> everything. Yes it is expensive. Correct me if I'm wrong.
> Rocky
> 
>> On Fri, Sep 24, 2021 at 9:47 AM Matthew via CnC-List  
>> wrote:
>> That was why I left Boat US / GEICO in the first place – that whole reduced 
>> value to 20% baloney. I switched to Travelers, which had a good policy but 
>> dramatically increased its annual premium the last three years. As a result, 
>> I’m now with Progressive.
>> 
>> I’m the kind of person who likes to find a good policy with reasonable rates 
>> and stick with it. For boat insurance, however, it pays to shop around.
>> 
>> From: David Risch via CnC-List  
>> Sent: Friday, September 24, 2021 9:25 AM
>> To: Stus-List 
>> Cc: Andy Frame  David Risch 
>> Subject: Stus-List Re: Insurance
>> 
>> Check the fine print. Ask the question. If I lose the mast
>> 
>> Sent from my Android. Please forgive typos. Thank you.
>> 
>> Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with 
>> the costs involved. If you want to show your support to the list - use 
>> PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray Thanks - Stu
> 
> Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with 
> the costs involved. If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal 
> to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray Thanks - Stu
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with 
> the costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use 
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu
Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List Re: In search of Barient 17 self tailing winch retaining nut

[Chuck Gilchrest via CnC-List]

http://www.arco-winches.com/products/spares
Try here.
Chuck G

Sent from my iPhone

> On Sep 21, 2021, at 11:51 AM, Doug via CnC-List  wrote:
> 
> 
> There is an outfit in Australia that has spare parts for barient and Barlow 
> winches. The name escapes me..
> 
> 
> 
> Doug Mountjoy 
> sv Rebecca Leah 
> C & C Landfall 39
> Port Orchard Yacht Club 
> Port Orchard, WA
> 
> 
>  Original message 
> From: "Lisle Kingery, PhD via CnC-List" 
> Date: 9/20/21 17:28 (GMT-08:00)
> To: Stus-List 
> Cc: "Lisle Kingery, PhD" 
> Subject: Stus-List In search of Barient 17 self tailing winch retaining nut
> 
> Any chance anyone knows of somewhere I might be able to find a Barient 17 st 
> winch retaining nut, the one on the top of the winch. I lost mine today 
> unfortunately when I pulled on the jib sheet and the darn thing was loose and 
> fell overboard. Been scouring the internet with not much luck so thought I 
> would check with the list.
> 
> Thanks,
> 
> Lisle
> Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with 
> the costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use 
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu
Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List Re: Cancelled again

[Chuck Gilchrest via CnC-List]

I’ll volunteer to lead the first one.  Who wants to talk about rope?
Chuck

Sent from my iPhone

> On Sep 17, 2021, at 4:07 PM, Bill Coleman via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> 
> Sounds like a great idea, would probably put a little structure in the 
> discussion, and keep that part of it from meandering.
> You know Chuck, when you come up with a great idea, you also get a job!  . .  
> .
>  
> Bill Coleman
> Entrada, Erie, PA
>  
>  
>  
> From: Novabraid via CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com] 
> Sent: Friday, September 17, 2021 3:09 PM
> To: 'Stus-List'
> Cc: csgilchr...@comcast.net
> Subject: Stus-List Re: Cancelled again
>  
> Hey Stu,
> Just a thought: having the virtual rendezvous is a great idea and its always 
> good to see who shows up for any number of random discussions about our 
> boats, but perhaps we’d get more interest if the meet up was a bit more 
> focused, like when John Kelly Cuthbertson was able to talk about his dad’s 
> archives on C items.  We’ve had some lively chats in the email exchange 
> recently about A-4 engines and the choices available for charging systems and 
> electrical storage. Perhaps in each of the rendezvous, we could spend a bit 
> of time on a particular topic first and then open up the floor for other 
> discussions, maybe even inviting an outside source (Balmar, Beta Marine, an 
> AGL battery guy, etc) to be a guest “expert” on the focal subject.
> Given the wealth of knowledge that our owners have accumulated, putting a 
> monthly schedule of topics, perhaps seasonal in nature, might yield a bit 
> more participation.  And folks like Rob Mazza, John Kelly Cuthbertson, Rob 
> Ball, and others could also be scheduled in to field questions or lead 
> discussions.
> While this all may be a bit much from a planning standpoint, it wouldn’t be 
> difficult to start a list of topics that seem to be hot buttons for 
> discussion and take it from there…
> Suggestions for topics are welcome…
> Cheers,
> Chuck Gilchrest
> S/V Half Magic
> 1983 Landfall 35
> Padanaram, MA
>  
>  
> From: Stu via CnC-List  
> Sent: Thursday, September 16, 2021 12:09 PM
> To: C Email List 
> Cc: Stu 
> Subject: Stus-List Cancelled again
>  
> Since there appears to be little interest in tonite’s virtual zoom 
> rendezvous, I have cancelled it.
>  
> Maybe we will have more interest once the sailing season has slowed down.
>  
> Stay safe ‘n’ healthy.
>  
> Stu
> Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with 
> the costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use 
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu
Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List Re: Boat Donation to Charity?

[Chuck Gilchrest via CnC-List]

Massachusetts Maritime Academy or US Merchant Marine Academy at Kings Point are 
worthy recipients of a donation but not likely geographically desirable for 
you.  Mass Maitime runs a November auction for their donated boats and not all 
need to be on site on Cape Cod.
Chuck Gilchrest 

Sent from my iPhone

> On Sep 11, 2021, at 1:15 PM, Edd Schillay via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> Listers,
> 
> Any suggestions on a good charity to donate a boat to? Preferably one that 
> will actually use the boat instead of selling it for charity funds (Fair 
> market value deduction)
> 
> It looks like things are moving forward with the next Enterprise and I’d like 
> to avoid paying two insurance and slip bills. 
> 
> (Meaning: Yes, I will sell this boat for dirt cheap at this point. Bring 
> offers!)
> 
> All the best,
> 
> Edd
> 
> 
> Edd M. Schillay
> Captain of the Starship Enterprise
> C 37+ | Sail No: NCC-1701-B
> Venice Yacht Club | Venice Island, FL
> 
> 
> 
> 
>   
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with 
> the costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use 
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu
Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List Re: 84 Landfall 35 vs 91 Morris Justine 36

[Chuck Gilchrest via CnC-List]

Peter,
We have been remarkably pleased with the performance of our Landfall 35 in our 
travels around Buzzards Bay.  6-7kts is fairly common over the ground in a beam 
reach at slack tides.  The shortcomings arise when trying to sail tight angles 
up wind as the length of the spreaders on the single spreader mast makes tight 
sheeting angles quite problematic.  She also starts to side slip at angles 
higher than 40-45 degrees. Running dead downwind isn’t desirable either and we 
have compromised by using an Assymetric genniker and sailing hotter angles and 
gybing more often.
In 12kts of breeze we have seen 8 kts with the main and genniker in flat water.
Chuck Gilchrest 
S/V Half Magic
1983 Landfall 35
Padanaram, MA

Sent from my iPhone

> On Sep 9, 2021, at 2:06 PM, Peter Cowenhoven via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> It was against the current so 4.5 kn to 5kn over ground
> 
> Sent from Yahoo Mail on Android
> 
> On Thu, Sep 9, 2021 at 11:44 AM, Korbey Hunt
>  wrote:
> How fast were you traveling?
> 
> Get Outlook for Android
> From: Peter Cowenhoven via CnC-List 
> Sent: Wednesday, September 8, 2021 6:04:58 PM
> To: Stus-List 
> Cc: Peter Cowenhoven 
> Subject: Stus-List 84 Landfall 35 vs 91 Morris Justine 36
>  
> Always pleasantly surprised at the speed of the C This past Sunday with 10 
> to 15kn  wind I was sailing from Shelter Island with a friend in a 92 Morris 
> Justine.  On the a 13 mile run between Orient Point and Westbrook CT on a 
> beam to close reach the C Landfall consistently outpaced the Morris. By the 
> end we were probably close to 3/4 mile ahead.
> 
> I though weight might be the biggest factor but the sail area to displacement 
> favored the Morris??  Does this come down to hull shape?  Not sure I was out 
> sailing him as I think he was pretty dialed in as well.   I suppose the 
> Morris may be more built for offshore maybe??  Would love some thoughts from 
> the group!
> 
> Thanks in advance!!
> 
> Sent from Yahoo Mail on Android
> Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with 
> the costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use 
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu
Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List Re: Wire vs. Dyneema check stays

[Chuck Gilchrest via CnC-List]

Full disclosure, I work for a rope company. But a few things so say regards to 
Dyneema.  First of all Dyneema is a brand name that comes in a wide range of 
“models”.  The actual material is UHMWPE or Ultra High Molecular Weight 
Polyethylene.  A Dutch company DSM makes the yarns with subtle differences in 
order to achieve different characteristics such as strength and elongation and 
something called “creep”.  The grades of Dyneema are categorized by an SK 
number with the higher numbers yielding higher performance, generally speaking. 
 However DSM is not the only company that makes UHMWPE yarns.  Honeywell makes 
an equivalent yarn called Spectra which also comes in different grades.  
Finally there are generic offerings, typically Asian made that are often much 
cheaper than Spectra or Dyneema but quality tends to vary.
A rope maker can choose which yarns to use in a particular rope, using the 
fibers to make either a 12 strand hollow braid or to use the high modulus 
fibers as the core in a low stretch double braid with an outer cover braid of a 
high wear or YV stable material like polyester.  Doing the latter adds weight, 
but dramatically increases longevity.  Even if UHMWPE is used just for the 
core, most companies will still coat the yarns in a urethane bath to provide 
additional protection from chafe and to provide color coding.
Finally, some rope makers will use a process called heat setting the Dyneema 
rope by pre-stretching and aligning the fibers and then exposing the rope to a 
heat process that removes most of the creep (non recoverable elongation on a 
molecular level).  There’s usually a slight reduction in overall strength with 
heat set ropes, but far less stretch.
It is these heat set ropes that I would recommend for any standing rigging 
application.  UHMWPE is quite slippery and achieving proper tension and 
maintaining it under load can be challenging without the proper terminations 
and fittings.
Several companies like Colligio and Blue Wave offer specific hardware to create 
standing rigging solutions that provide adjustments and tensioning solutions.
Hope this helps..
Chuck Gilchrest 
S/V Half Magic
LF 35

Sent from my iPhone

> On Jul 23, 2021, at 9:02 PM, Dave S via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
> Josh - can you point to any good resources on its use for lifelines?
> 
> Thanks, Dave 
> 33-2 Windstar
> 
> Sent from my iPhone
> 
>>> On Jul 23, 2021, at 8:59 PM, Josh Muckley via CnC-List 
>>>  wrote:
>>> 
>> 
>> I'm a huge fan of dyneema.  It is relatively cheap and easy to finish 
>> yourself with few if any special tools.  I currently have lifelines, topping 
>> lift, various soft shackles and continuous loops made of dyneema.  No 
>> problems.  I might reconsider using it for standing rigging but everything 
>> else I'd advocate for unequivocally.
>> 
>> Josh Muckley
>> S/V Sea Hawk 
>> 1989 C 37+
>> Solomons, MD
>> 
>>> On Fri, Jul 23, 2021, 20:45 Hoyt, Mike via CnC-List  
>>> wrote:
>>> Do you actually use these? Our frers 33 has check stays and although they 
>>> help with main shape we rarely use them due to added complications tacking 
>>> etc
>>> 
>>> Mike
>>> Peraiatence
>>> Halifax 
>>> From: cenelson via CnC-List 
>>> Sent: July 23, 2021 9:26:54 PM
>>> To: Stus-List
>>> Cc: cenelson
>>> Subject: Stus-List Wire vs. Dyneema check stays
>>>  
>>> 
>>> I have decided to replace my standing rigging on Water Phantom, my now 26 
>>> yr old 1995 C XL/kcb.
>>> 
>>> The rigger has recommended staying with a rod replacement vs. wire to 
>>> better match the rod fittings, esp. at the mast head and to save money.
>>> 
>>> He also recommends going with dyneema, instead of wire, for the check 
>>> stays. 
>>> 
>>> My concern is uv damage to the dyneema which I understand has been a 
>>> problem with using it vs. wire.
>>>  
>>> His response is that the early coatings used to protect dyneema led to 
>>> short lifetimes but that the newer coatings have solved that problem.
>>> 
>>> OTOH, my wire check stays are still fine “…after all these years…”
>>> 
>>> My question is should I go with dyneema for the checks or stay with new 
>>> wire assuming the costs are similar?
>>> 
>>> Thanks,
>>> 
>>> Charlie Nelson
>>> 
>>> 
>>> Sent from the all new AOL app for iOS
>>> Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with 
>>> the costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use 
>>> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - 
>>> Stu
>> Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with 
>> the costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use 
>> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - 
>> Stu
> Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with 
> the costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use 
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu
Thanks to all of 

Stus-List Re: Question??

[Chuck Gilchrest via CnC-List]

The question needs to be presented to Mack Boring, the Yanmar distributor and 
OEM interface with most boat builders east of the Mississippi River.  They know 
what can and can not be replaced or serviced. Good folks work there.

https://mackboring.com/
Chuck Gilchrest 
Half Magic
1983 LF 35
Sent from my iPhone

> On Jun 15, 2021, at 7:42 AM, Steve Mallett via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> 
> Has he tried CME in Burnside? I had my transmission rebuilt there 2 years ago 
> with good results. CME is Yanmar parts dealer as well.
> 
> Steve Mallett 
> Second Lady C
> Dartmouth, NS
> 
>> On Tue, Jun 15, 2021, 8:33 AM Danny Haughey via CnC-List, 
>>  wrote:
>> I know! that's ridiculous!  If this is true, why would anyone want a Yanmar 
>> engine?  He should have contacted Tartan directly.  I've had so much help 
>> from them over the last 5 years owning my Tartan 40 and it's 36 years old.  
>> I can't imagine that they would not have had a reasonable solution for him.  
>> Maybe a connection to a local Mech that would have taken on the repair? 
>>  
>> They've actually helped a situation when the local yard was doing their best 
>> chicken little impression saying "this is NEVER going to work, it will 
>> jeopardize your safety..."  Tartan stepped in and cooled all heads. They 
>> wrote a letter on company letterhead to confirm that not only was the 
>> condition safe but they had numerous boat out on the water with the exact 
>> same setup and were still using the same setup on new boats!
>>  
>> Sometimes, I think, locally, all the guys in the trade know each other and 
>> they all speak to one another and they all back each other up.  I've been on 
>> the receiving end of that situation too.  You have to go outside your local 
>> environment for a true 2nd opinion.  I'm lucky enough to have a company 
>> still in business and more than willing to keep their older boats up of to 
>> snuff!  I would imagine with such a new model, they'd have been more than 
>> willing to help out.  The last thing they want is that type of story getting 
>> out that their putting in engines that can't be repaired...
>>  
>> Or, maybe your friend just didn't want to wait for a repair and the engine 
>> swap was faster?  I bet he could still reach out to tartan and get that 
>> thing fixed right up.  Worst case scenario, he could ship it to them and 
>> have it repaired by them.  Imagine having a spare engine laying around for a 
>> swap out if another repair is needed (if they are identical).  I know a guy 
>> with a Viking 33 that has a completely rebuilt and pristine atomic 4 in his 
>> garage for that very purpose!  He says he can swap out the engine and dial 
>> it in within a day.
>>  
>> Danny
>> 
>> -- Original Message --
>> From: "Dennis C. via CnC-List" 
>> To: Stus-List 
>> Cc: "Dennis C." 
>> Subject: Stus-List Re: Question??
>> Date: Mon, 14 Jun 2021 20:53:15 -0500
>> 
>> There are 68 Kanzaki transmissions listed on eBay right now.  Perhaps one 
>> will work.  There are also sites that sell used and rebuilt trannies.  I 
>> find it hard to believe he needs a new tranny AND engine.
>>  
>>   -- 
>> Dennis C.
>> Touche' 35-1 #83
>> Mandeville, LA
>> 
>>> On Mon, Jun 14, 2021 at 6:32 PM Robert Abbott via CnC-List 
>>>  wrote:
>>> A club member has a 2012 Tartan 37 with a 3 cylinder Yanmar diesel I 
>>> don't know the transmission typehe bought it in 2014 got a good 
>>> deal then on pricethe engine now has 200 hours but just after he 
>>> launched 6 weeks ago, his transmission failedmarine diesel 
>>> contractors (3 of them) said transmission could not be repaired.so 
>>> he needs a new transmission.
>>> 
>>> Wrong, he is informed by all 3 diesel mechanics and Yanmar, that there 
>>> is not a transmission available to match his Yanmar engine. So guess 
>>> what, he has to buy a new engine and transmission.
>>> 
>>> Has anyone ever heard of this where there is no transmission to fit a 
>>> Yanmar?
>>> 
>>> Rob Abbott
>>> AZURA
>>> C 32 -#277
>>> Halifax, N.S.
>>> Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with 
>>> the costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use 
>>> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - 
>>> Stu
>> 
>>  
>> Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with 
>> the costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use 
>> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - 
>> Stu
> Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with 
> the costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use 
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu
Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  

Stus-List Re: help with shift cable issue

[Chuck Gilchrest via CnC-List]

Inside the tube is a clamp that holds the cable shroud in place.  When your 
cable gets old and you have to muscle the shift lever to get the boat to go in 
gear, the clamp can break.  Trouble is, Edson no longer makes the clamp.  So 
gently remove it and have a machine shop make you a new one.  Make sure to get 
a new series 64 cable while you’re at it.  The broken clamp is a symptom, the 
40 year old cable is the problem.
Chuck Gilchrest 
Former Edson dude
83 Landfall 35 (with the same shift assembly)


Sent from my iPhone

> On Apr 17, 2021, at 3:46 PM, General Gao via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
> 
> Hi Chuck, yes I have done that, the transmission side was fine; it happened 
> last season just before the boat was moved into position for hull-out, the 
> control lever all of sudden lost its ability to properly move the 
> transmission side lever into the correct position.
> 
> Bo
> 
>> On Sat, Apr 17, 2021 at 2:35 PM CHARLES SCHEAFFER  
>> wrote:
>> At the transmission, you should be able to locate the shifter lever and move 
>> it by hand.  This will also move the lever at the wheel pedestal.  I would 
>> move the transmission lever to neutral, forward and reverse positions and 
>> check that the pedestal lever positions agree.  
>>  
>> Chuck S
>>  
>>  
>>> On 04/17/2021 1:37 PM General Gao via CnC-List  
>>> wrote:
>>>  
>>>  
>>> I am continuing with my work on the shift cable issue. To summarize, the 
>>> shift cable suddenly could not shift the gearbox properly. Looking at the 
>>> gearbox side, the cable conduit ends may have moved and caused the issue. 
>>> I've verified the cable at the engine end did not change
>>>  
>>> I took a couple of pictures at the control end of things:
>>>  
>>> https://drive.google.com/file/d/1nXEiGVBoIcaEGtVxav6felcClgAVns2b/view?usp=sharing
>>>  
>>> https://drive.google.com/file/d/1-Lji9SQ1EPGDig2bngtrdwHd4I0moIBa/view?usp=sharing
>>>  
>>> I am thinking something got loose at the pedestal side, the conduit end 
>>> bracket might got loose; however I could not find the screw that sets the 
>>> distance of the conduit end from the control lever.
>>>  
>>> Am I missing something?
>>>  
>>> Regards,
>>>  
>>> Bo
>>>  
>>>  
>>> Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with 
>>> the costs involved. If you want to show your support to the list - use 
>>> PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray Thanks - Stu
> Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with 
> the costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use 
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu
Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List Re: Smelly bilge water

[Chuck Gilchrest via CnC-List]

David,
When I worked for Edson they were marketing a microbial bilge cleaner.  We 
found two things to be true: the microbes needed oxygen to work, as in agitated 
water.  Once the microbes finished feasting on organic matter in the bilge, 
they die, leaving a residual order that was unpleasant.  Bilge water was free 
of oils ,etc but needed to be pumped overboard. The microbial pads had a 
service life of about 1 month once they got active in dirty water.  They would 
not be effective if it froze.
Also, cleaners like bleach, simple green and any emulsifier products would kill 
the microbes, which means the bilge pads wouldn’t do what they were designed to 
do if you mixed bilge cleaners.
Just a bit of insight regarding odors in the bilge.
Chuck Gilchrest 

Sent from my iPhone

> On Mar 15, 2021, at 8:29 AM, David Knecht via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> Thanks for all the thoughts on smelly bilge.  I will add some detergent or 
> bleach when it warms up and leave it there for a while and hope that cleans 
> it out.  As to garboard drains, I have considered it, but the thought of 
> drilling another hole in the bottom of the boat just fills me with dread.  It 
> is not that big a problem to need that solution.  As to dehumidifiers, sounds 
> like a nice idea, but there is no power near the boat where it is stored this 
> winter, so that is not an option.  I doubt it would help given the amount of 
> water that comes down the mast in heavy rains.   Dave
>  
> David Knecht
> S/V Aries
> 1990 C 34+
> New London, CT
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with 
> the costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use 
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu
Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Re: Stus-List 37+ Cruise Speed

[Chuck Gilchrest via CnC-List]

Peter, 

My 1983 LF 35 came with a Yanmar 3HM with a 3 blade fixed prop.  It’s happiest 
around 2200 RPM at roughly 6 knots.  Anything more than that it sounds like the 
hull is shaking apart. Not a lot of sound deadening in general with that 
diesel, but it gets pretty loud at higher RPMs. Since I replaced the shaft, 
cutlass bearing, installed a dripless shaft seal when purchased 4 years ago, 
vibration is likely motor mounts which are probably original.

Someday…

Chuck Gilchrest

Half Magic

1983 35 Landfall

Padanaram, MA

From: CnC-List  On Behalf Of Peter Cowenhoven 
via CnC-List
Sent: Monday, August 24, 2020 10:18 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Peter Cowenhoven 
Subject: Re: Stus-List 37+ Cruise Speed

 

I've got a Westerbeke 33 with a 2 blade folding prop.

 

I would say I do 7 knots at about 2700 -2800 rpm pretty consistently.

Sent from Yahoo Mail on Android 

 

 

On Tue, Jun 23, 2020 at 12:53 PM, Rob Hamlin via CnC-List

mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> > wrote:

Hi

What is everyone’s motor/ rpm optimal motoring speed?  

 

Thanks

Rob

 

 

 

Sent from my iPhone

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Re: Stus-List Why isn't this boat selling?

[Chuck Gilchrest via CnC-List]

I love the look of the boat from the outside and it is likely a V-drive, not
a sail drive and yes, they are expensive to replace if original.
One of the reasons this boat wouldn't appeal to me, especially as a cruiser
is how dark it is down below.  While the narrow sleek looking windows on the
coach roof look wicked fast, they really don't allow much light, especially
forward of the galley.  Not a big deal if you're a racer guy who only sends
someone down below to haul in the spinnaker, but we all know that most boat
purchases get a thumbs up or thumbs down by the "co-sailor" that tries to
make a boat interior look inhabitable.  This boat looks more like a nicely
appointed dungeon than an inviting place to spend a few weeks.
I  compare how bright my Landfall 35 is to this interior and it is no
contest.
Perhaps some nice images with soft warm lighting down below would help this
boat find a new home..
Chuck Gilchrest
S/V Half Magic
1983 Landfall 35
Padanaram, MA

-Original Message-
From: CnC-List  On Behalf Of Joe Della Barba
via CnC-List
Sent: Tuesday, August 18, 2020 10:32 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Joe Della Barba 
Subject: Stus-List Why isn't this boat selling?

https://www.yachtworld.com/boats/1985/c-c-39-northeast-3607801/

This boat seems to be much better built than the average C or any other
boat. I would buy this boat myself except for two things:

1. I would need to saw off about 3 feet from the keel, which could possibly
make the boat not quite as stable. 6 foot draft would be aground in my slip
at dead low tide as it is and there are times I can't get out with 5.5 foot
draft now.

2. Original Volvo Saildrive has to be about 99% of the way to replacement at
this point.

Joe

Coquina




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Re: Stus-List Water pump

[Chuck Gilchrest via CnC-List]

Many C yachts with Yanmar 3GM and 3HM diesels we’re actually fitted with raw 
water cooled engines, outfitted at the C factory with a Fresh Water 
conversion kit made by Sendure.  This was a cost savings  for C  Those 
systems use the Yanmar belt driven water pump as a fresh water pump mounted low 
on the engine and have an added Jabsco belt drive pump for raw water system 
mounted higher up. Both use rubber impellers (not great).  Factory Yanmar 3GMF 
and 3HMF use metal impellers on the circulation side and the pump mounts up at 
the thermostat.  The rubber impellers are not ideal as a circulation pump as 
the coolant temperatures are significantly higher than experienced on the raw 
water side.  I’ve also experienced bearing failures with the Yanmar pump which 
costs upwards of $600.
Chuck Gilchrest 
Half Magic 
1983 Landfall 35
Yanmar 3HM



> On Aug 3, 2020, at 10:54 AM, ALAN BERGEN via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
> 
> Mazen: I don't think you have a 3gm. Jon's pictures of a 3qm are more likely 
> what you have.
> 
> Alan
> 
> 
> 
>> On Mon, Aug 3, 2020 at 6:29 AM JP Mail via CnC-List  
>> wrote:
>> Upper is coolant pump. Lower is raw water pump. 
>> Go here for a pic:
>> https://psyberspace.com.au/yanmar/anatomy.htm
>> Jon 
>> 35-3
>> ___
>> 
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>> every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use 
>> PayPal to send contribution --   
>> https://urldefense.com/v3/__https://www.paypal.me/stumurray__;!!LIr3w8kk_Xxm!5GNaFYai5HjvmBs6CvRLww2EF4nl6Fqx0hEMhbaI2LCZGvRjoCGO1YnZD3qMlJb1pec$
>>  
>> 
> ___
> 
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> every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use 
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Re: Stus-List Sen-Dure heat exchanger

[Chuck Gilchrest via CnC-List]

On my 3HM with a Sendure heat exchanger, I drain the fresh water side by 
disconnecting the hose to the fresh water pump driven off a belt on the front 
of the motor.  It is the lowest point in the circuit and does not require 
disconnecting or draining the exchanger.  My pump goes through impellers like 
breath mints, so change the impeller while you are in there.
When refilling, top off the exchanger at the fill, run the engine for a minute 
with the cap off. And then fill the exchanger again once the air has been bled 
off. Tighten the cap and you should be good to go.  50/50 water antifreeze...
Chuck Gilchrest 
Half Magic
1983 35 Landfall 
Padanaram MA

Sent from my iPhone

> On Jul 30, 2020, at 11:36 AM, Rick Rohwer via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> I am seeing a drawing on www.heatexchandeshop.com
> There is also a website. Www.sen-Dure.com.  Hope it helps.
> 
> Sent from my iPad
> 
>> On Jul 30, 2020, at 06:06, Tortuga via CnC-List  
>> wrote:
>> 
>> 
>> Hi. Is there anyone out there who has a diagram, instructions, or other 
>> information about a Sen-Dure heat exchanger, model 2827? I have one mounted 
>> on my Yanmar 2QM15 engine.
>> I'm eager to change the antifreeze in the unit, but where it is mounted, I 
>> have very little access to it. It's difficult even to see where the heat 
>> exchanger begins and ends. I would rather not detach it if I can avoid that. 
>> I'm sure there must be a drain somewhere that I can't see.
>> I'd appreciate any guidance. 
>> Thanks
>> Derek Kennedy
>> SV Tortuga, 1979 C 30 mk1
>> Ballantyne's Cove, NS 
>> 
>> ___
>> 
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>> every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use 
>> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>> 
> 
> ___
> 
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> every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use 
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> 


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Stus-List Edson engineering bulletin on fig 727 engine control

[Chuck Gilchrest via CnC-List]

Hi Stu,

I've obtained a copy of the Edson engine control engineering bulletin for
the pedestal mounted unit that appears on many  of our 78-83 vintage C's.
The bulletin no longer appears on Edson's website, but from a service
standpoint, it may be useful for list members and visitors looking to
service the engine controls on the boats.  Unfortunately, Edson no longer
offers replacement parts for this controller, but it does have good info on
assembly and disassembly  for those wishing to replace cables, etc.

I  don't have a file share program otherwise I would post a link to the
list, but if I could send it to you  for the website for general
consumption, that would perhaps be better.  Let me know how to get it into
your hands.

Thank you,

Chuck Gilchrest

S/V Half Magic

1983 Landfall 35

Padanaram, MA

(former Edson guy..)

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Re: Stus-List Shift lever

[Chuck Gilchrest via CnC-List]

You will be very disappointed if you order this part for your engine control as 
it only works in an Edson 870 control.  Replacement engine control levers for 
the controls where the cables have their own unique tubes aft of the pedestal 
ARE NO LONGER MADE BY EDSON and have not been for over 25 years.  If you still 
have one of these controls on your boat, do yourself a favor and replace your 
control cables(carefully).  The vast majority of control component breakage 
(clevis, levers, and clamps)is caused by trying to overcome the friction of 
worn out cables that have been in the boat for over 30 years. And no, there is 
no way to lubricate a Morse series 33 or 64 cable.  It is the cable housing 
that wears out wherever there is a bend in the cable.
Chuck Gilchrest 

Sent from my iPhone

> On Jul 6, 2020, at 9:19 AM, dwight veinot via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> 
> Binnacle.ca. Search Edson stainless clutch handle. $109
> 
>> On Mon, Jul 6, 2020 at 8:22 AM John and Maryann Read via CnC-List 
>>  wrote:
>> A friend’s circa 1980 36 shift lever broke while docking this weekend.  It 
>> was an exciting docking maneuver with crew climbing into the engine to 
>> manually shift but all is well.  Any advice on obtaining a replacement?
>> 
>> Edson system with separate throttle and shift levers each in its own tube 
>> either side of the pedestal.  Lever is cast aluminum
>> 
>>  
>> 
>> TIA
>> 
>>  
>> 
>> John and Maryann
>> 
>> Legacy III
>> 
>> 1982 C 34
>> 
>> Noank, CT
>> 
>>  
>> 
>>  
>> 
>> ___
>> 
>> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
>> every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use 
>> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>> 
> -- 
> Sent from Gmail Mobile
> ___
> 
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Re: Stus-List Shift lever

[Chuck Gilchrest via CnC-List]

John,
The levers you describe are no longer made by Edson.  It’s conceivable that you 
could 3D print a new one from the existing pieces but chances are good you will 
need to swap out engine controls to either an Edson 870 or 816 control housing. 
 Your cables would get re routed inside the pedestal and you would lose the 
extra tubes.

I believe the control on the boat is currently a model 737 control.
Chuck Gilchrest 
S/V Half Magic 
1983 Landfall 35
(With the same engine controls)

Sent from my iPhone

> On Jul 6, 2020, at 7:22 AM, John and Maryann Read via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> 
> A friend’s circa 1980 36 shift lever broke while docking this weekend.  It 
> was an exciting docking maneuver with crew climbing into the engine to 
> manually shift but all is well.  Any advice on obtaining a replacement?
> Edson system with separate throttle and shift levers each in its own tube 
> either side of the pedestal.  Lever is cast aluminum
>  
> TIA
>  
> John and Maryann
> Legacy III
> 1982 C 34
> Noank, CT
>  
>  
> ___
> 
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
> every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use 
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
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Re: Stus-List 84 Landfall 35

[Chuck Gilchrest via CnC-List]

Starboard side of the engine.  Intake faces forward.  Of course engine is 
installed backwards with the V Drive.
Chuck Gilchrest 

Sent from my iPhone

> On Jun 22, 2020, at 6:29 PM, Peter Cowenhoven via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> The Westerbeke 30 can rev up near 4000 and the diesel mechanic I had look at 
> it said to get it up to 3500 sometimes.
> 
> I probably usually run it at 2600 or so.  
> 
> Where is the air filter located on your Yanmar
> 
> 
> 


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Re: Stus-List 84 Landfall 35

[Chuck Gilchrest via CnC-List]

Back when our engine controls were installed, there was no easy way to induce 
friction to the throttle cable to keep the throttle return from backing the 
engine down.  The common fix was to place a small clamp on the throttle cable 
housing and induce just enough compression on the cable to prevent it from 
backing down by itself.

Mine has a factory installed clamp located adjacent to the starboard lazarette 
so it is pretty accessible if it needs adjustment.  On newer pedestal top 
engine controls (Edson 816 and 870 models), there’s a hex bolt located inside 
the control housing that puts pressure on a bushing surrounding the throttle 
lever.

 

There’s no way my diesel revs anywhere near as high as yours.  If my engine 
revs over 2500, the engine feels like it is going to jump clear out of the 
hull.  At 2100 RPM, Half Magic cruises well over 6knts in smooth water, 2500 
just digs a bigger hole in the water..  Maybe I need motor mounts???

Chuck Gilchrest

S/V Half Magic

1983 Landfall 35

Padanaram, MA

From: CnC-List  On Behalf Of Peter Cowenhoven 
via CnC-List
Sent: Monday, June 22, 2020 4:59 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Peter Cowenhoven 
Subject: Re: Stus-List 84 Landfall 35

 

Also had a bit of a throttle issue where it would slip down to lower rpm's and 
I had to hold it to keep it above 2500. But I couldn't get over 3000.

 

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Re: Stus-List 84 Landfall 35

[Chuck Gilchrest via CnC-List]

Peter,

Also check your air cleaner and replace it if it hasn’t had any attention 
recently.  If the air filter is blocked, you’ll get incomplete combustion that 
will often cause a sooty exhaust.  Or as others have suggested, the compression 
might be low and that could be an issue.  Does the diesel fire easily when you 
turn over the motor?  And is the exhaust smokey from start up or does it get 
worse with the hotter the engine gets?  Both would suggest a drop in 
compression.

Chuck Gilchrest

1983 LF 35 (with a Yanmar 3HM)

 

 

 

From: CnC-List  On Behalf Of Peter Cowenhoven 
via CnC-List
Sent: Monday, June 22, 2020 2:43 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Peter Cowenhoven 
Subject: Re: Stus-List 84 Landfall 35

 

Quick question and I'll put it out to the list too.  I've got a fair amount of 
black smoke that dirties the stern and is pretty visable while motoring.  

 

Any thoughts on where to start?

Sent from Yahoo Mail on Android 
<https://go.onelink.me/107872968?pid=InProduct=Global_Internal_YGrowth_AndroidEmailSig__AndroidUsers_wl=ym_sub1=Internal_sub2=Global_YGrowth_sub3=EmailSignature>
 

 

On Mon, Jun 22, 2020 at 2:40 PM, Peter Cowenhoven

mailto:pscowenho...@yahoo.com> > wrote:

Really, wierd and that was consistently slower?

Sent from Yahoo Mail on Android 
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On Mon, Jun 22, 2020 at 2:32 PM, Chuck Gilchrest via CnC-List

mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> > wrote:

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Re: Stus-List 84 Landfall 35

[Chuck Gilchrest via CnC-List]

The Hunter should have been 20 seconds per mile faster than the Landfall.  

 

From: CnC-List  On Behalf Of Peter Cowenhoven 
via CnC-List
Sent: Monday, June 22, 2020 1:57 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Peter Cowenhoven 
Subject: Re: Stus-List 84 Landfall 35

 

The Beneteau was actually a Hunter and it was the slowest.

Sent from Yahoo Mail on Android 
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On Mon, Jun 22, 2020 at 1:18 PM, Chuck Gilchrest via CnC-List

mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> > wrote:

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Re: Stus-List 84 Landfall 35

[Chuck Gilchrest via CnC-List]

According to PHRF NE ratings, the Beneteau should be equal in speed, while the 
Hinckley 35 is 40 seconds per mile slower and the Jeauneau should be 40 seconds 
per mile faster. Assuming equal crew experience you must have found your boat’s 
sweet spot.
Chuck Gilchrest 
Half Magic
1983 35 LF
Padanaram MA
Sent from my iPhone

> On Jun 22, 2020, at 11:42 AM, Rob Hamlin via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
> Peter did I see you on on block?  I commented on your C I was the blue 
> hull 37+ Sapphire.  I had the same pleasure sailing home.  However motor 
> there wasn’t as enjoyable.  
> 
> -Rob
> 
> Sent from my iPhone
> 
>>> On Jun 22, 2020, at 11:20 AM, Peter Cowenhoven via CnC-List 
>>>  wrote:
>>> 
>> I know the Landfall is not supposed to as fast as other C's but just got 
>> back from a run to Block Island from Westbrook, CT with 3 other newer boats 
>> Hunter 356, Hinckley 35, and a Jeuneau 38 and the Landfall was clearly the 
>> fastest boat even with just a jib out.  Was able to get a half mile ahead 
>> with not much effort.
>> 
>> Creature comforts compared to speed I guess.
>> 
>> Sent from Yahoo Mail on Android
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Re: Stus-List Two Deaths on Colorado Lakes This Weekend

[Chuck Gilchrest via CnC-List]

Randy,
I’m saddened by the loss of a valued member of the sailing community in 
Colorado.  Having sailed Dillon Reservoir in earlier years and after reading 
the article I can’t imagine how such an experienced sailor would have been 
allowed or chosen  to compete in a dinghy race without a life jacket.  The 
water in Dillon is always just a few degrees above freezing as it is fed 
entirely by snow melt.  At 9000’ above sea level tucked in adjacent to the 
Continental Divide, it has some of the most capricious wind and weather 
anywhere in US.  Although the article didn’t mention anything regarding a 
wetsuit or dry suit, hypothermia in sub 50 degree water with no PFD would seem 
to have been a likely contributing factor.  As tragic as the loss of life of a 
person who by all accounts was a real contributor to our sport, it serves as a 
great reminder to prepare for a worse case situation because it can and Will 
happen.
Godspeed Paul,
Chuck Gilchrest 

Sent from my iPhone

> On Jun 15, 2020, at 11:37 AM, Randy Stafford via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> I’m sad to report we lost a very experienced and decorated sailor this 
> weekend at Dillon Reservoir.  Paul Kresge of Dillon Yacht Club had raced for 
> 40 years, and was well-known around the country as a US Sailing Judge and 
> PRO.  He went overboard racing his dinghy in rough weather Saturday 
> afternoon, and his body was recovered from 200 feet of water yesterday 
> evening.  His death represents quite a loss for the Colorado sailing 
> community.
> 
> * 
> https://www.summitdaily.com/news/dillon-reservoir-search-shifts-from-search-and-rescue-mission-to-body-recovery/
> * https://www.coloradosummitmag.com/news-and-profiles/2019/06/racing-the-wind
> 
> Also on Saturday afternoon, two 28-year-old men became separated from their 
> inner tubes in strong wind.  One of them went under water and was recovered 
> some 90 minutes later.  I was working on my boat in the marina, and saw the 
> South Metro Dive Team’s runabout hauling ass to the launch ramp, with first 
> responders doing CPR on someone aboard.  But it was too late, he didn’t make 
> it.
> 
> * 
> https://www.9news.com/article/news/local/chatfield-water-rescue/73-fb01b537-5c31-4057-b284-da15d188d72a
> * 
> https://www.thedenverchannel.com/news/local-news/crews-search-for-person-missing-in-chatfield-reservoir-1-brought-to-shore-in-serious-condition
> 
> These events demonstrate that the risks are real, even for very experienced 
> watermen.
> 
> Respectfully,
> Randy Stafford
> S/V Grenadine
> C 30 MK I #79
> Ken Caryl, CO
> ___
> 
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Re: Stus-List Yamaha 4hp 2 cycle

[Chuck Gilchrest via CnC-List]

A partially blocked main jet could cause carb to run lean on the top end.   
Mixture and idle screws don’t adjust anything above the midrange of the power 
band.  A fine wire can be used to clear any debris that could block fuel flow 
through the jet.  Also check the float level.  If the float is set too low it 
could be starving for fuel at higher rpms with full throttle.  
Chuck



> On Jun 10, 2020, at 11:45 AM, David Risch via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> 
> Thanks Josh
>  
> Yamaha 4hp 2 cycle.   I can get serial number if you need more info…
>  
> David F. Risch
> (401) 419-4650
>  
> From: CnC-List  On Behalf Of Josh Muckley via 
> CnC-List
> Sent: Wednesday, June 10, 2020 10:36 AM
> To: C List 
> Cc: Josh Muckley 
> Subject: Re: Stus-List Yamaha 4hp 2 cycle
>  
> David,
>  
> There has to be an orifice (jet) or screw.  Are you sure a screw isn't hidden 
> under a plastic cowl?
>  
> Get me an exact make and model so I can do some research.
>  
> Josh 
>  
>  
>  
> On Wed, Jun 10, 2020, 08:08 David Risch via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> Josh and Chuck,
>  
> Mixture is new with AV gas so no issues there.   Only one adjustment screw on 
> carb.  Seems to only affect low throttle.  As said all good in neutral and 
> good up until ¾ throttle in gear.  Chuck mentioned if spark plug grey and 
> chalky, which it is, it is running lean at top end.   How does one adjust top 
> end without adjustment screw.
>  
> Thanks in advance.
>  
> David F. Risch
> (401) 419-4650
>  
> From: CnC-List  On Behalf Of Josh Muckley via 
> CnC-List
> Sent: Sunday, June 7, 2020 10:17 AM
> To: C List 
> Cc: Josh Muckley 
> Subject: Re: Stus-List Yamaha 4hp 2 cycle
>  
> Follow my carb tuning video.  Post back with questions.
>  
> https://youtu.be/caIdvC8WGDg
>  
> Sounds like the idle/throttle screw (T) is keeping the butterfly open too far 
> with no throttle applied.  It just so happens that in gear there is enough 
> load to slow 'er down.  At full throttle is sounds like probably too much 
> fuel (H).  I think that if it was too little it would die.  Since both of 
> these "symptoms could be a result of too much low throttle fuel (L) you 
> should probably start by dialing it back a bit and see how thing go.  By 
> doing this you will lower the fuel at idle AND lower the fuel a full 
> throttle.  If you're lucky and my diagnosis is correct then you'll kill too 
> birds with one stone.
>  
> My advice is based on having 3 adjustment screws H (high throttle), L (low 
> throttle), T (min throttle).  If you're missing any one of these then it has 
> a jet which serves in its place.  
>  
> Josh Muckley
> S/V Sea Hawk 
> 1989 C 37+
> Solomons, MD
>  
> 
> On Sun, Jun 7, 2020, 09:29 David Risch via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> So instead of giving it away I rebuilt the carb and half dozen other fixes 
> this winter.
> 
> Runs and idles great, but at full throttle she bogs down continues to run, 
> but sounds rougher.When out gear it goes right to full throttle. 
> 
> Perhaps overpropped?
> 
> Sent from my Android. Please forgive typos. Thank you.
>  
> ___
> 
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> every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use 
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> 
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> 
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> every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use 
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> 
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> 
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> every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use 
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> 
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Re: Stus-List Re fiddle castings.

[Chuck Gilchrest via CnC-List]

Dennis,

My Landfall 35 has the same corner fixture at the Nav Station but made from 
wood (teak or mahogany I believe).  Rob Ball was on our boat last week and made 
mention of the piece.  Our boat was built in Rhode Island when Barry Carroll 
was running the operation down there, but I doubt that there would be drawings 
available for the joinery.

I can take a photo next time I’m out on the boat.

Chuck Gilchrest

S/V Half Magic

1983 35 LF

Padanaram, MA

From: CnC-List  On Behalf Of Dennis C. via 
CnC-List
Sent: Tuesday, June 9, 2020 4:45 PM
To: CnClist 
Cc: Dennis C. 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Re fiddle castings.

 

Understand the vendor wants to make it right.  But wondering what other 
alternatives would be if castings weren't available or if someone chose not to 
replace them.  Does the radius match commonly available teak outside corner 
fittings, I wonder?  I'm guessing the profile wouldn't match exactly.

 

I think there is a custom teak shop somewhere that could make some to match 
perhaps.

-- 

Dennis C.

Touche' 35-1 #83

Mandeville, LA

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Re: Stus-List Yamaha 4hp 2 cycle

[Chuck Gilchrest via CnC-List]

If it seems to lose power on the top end, that a good indicator that the engine 
is running lean.  If your oil/ fuel mixture ratio is off with too much oil, 
your “fuel” may not have enough gas to mix with oxygen to provide enough power. 
 A good way to determine a lean burn is 1. Check the spark plug color.  If it 
looks gray or chalky, you might be too lean and 2.when you run the engine at 
full throttle and back off the throttle a touch and the engine speeds up, it is 
too lean on the top end.
Check for leaks around the carb and intake manifold.  Spray a little starter 
fluid Near the manifold and if the eNgine speeds up, you have an air leak.
Should you find the plug to be black and Sooty, you have the opposite problem, 
too rich.  Again , check mixture ratio.  Not enough oil in the premix can make 
a difference, causing incomplete combustion at full throttle.  Finally, modern 
gasoline doesn’t mix well with oil and alcohol tends to separate the oil from 
the gasoline.  That can mess with your fuel as well, making part of the fuel 
storage critical to a good running motor.
Aren’t engines fun?
Chuck Gilchrest 
Half Magic
Padanaram MA
Sent from my iPhone

> On Jun 7, 2020, at 9:29 AM, David Risch via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
> 
> So instead of giving it away I rebuilt the carb and half dozen other fixes 
> this winter. 
> 
> Runs and idles great, but at full throttle she bogs down continues to run, 
> but sounds rougher.When out gear it goes right to full throttle.  
> 
> Perhaps overpropped?
> 
> Sent from my Android. Please forgive typos. Thank you.
> 
> ___
> 
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> every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use 
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> 
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Re: Stus-List Solar Panel Charging Problem

[Chuck Gilchrest via CnC-List]

Hi Pete,

I've had solar panels on our Landfall 35 for a year now (2 x 100w HQST semi
flexible in parallel 12v, Renogy Commander 40A controller, MT-50 remote
monitor).  The controller flashes a light when charging batteries and any
indication of a charging problem (battery issues, bad connection, etc) gets
a flashing red light.  The remote monitor also shows charging volts and amps
and if there's a positive flow to the batteries. 

My MT-50 monitor recently had  display failure but the system was still
operational.  The monitor can help you set charging parameters as well.  If
you are hooking up the panels directly to the battery with no controller,
you're asking for serious overcharging from a 100w panel in direct sunlight.
If you have a controller, check the manual for indicator lights or readouts
from the controller (or check with a multimeter).  Mine typically put out
16-18v when in direct sunlight.

Chuck Gilchrest

S/V Half Magic

1983 Landfall 35

Padanaram, MA

 

From: CnC-List  On Behalf Of kelly petew via
CnC-List
Sent: Monday, June 1, 2020 12:13 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: kelly petew 
Subject: Stus-List Solar Panel Charging Problem

 

While yesterday was a bright, sunny day, I noticed that my 100 watt panel
was barely providing any power to my batteries. 

Bought from Amazon, this panel [KingSolar, probably Chinese] was purchased
and installed in August, 2019. 

I checked the MC connectors, they were OK.  

Can anyone share their experiences with trouble-shooting solar panel issues?

 

Thanks,

 

Pete W. 

 

Siren Song

'91 C 30-2

Deltaville, VA.  

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Re: Stus-List Hot Water Heater

[Chuck Gilchrest via CnC-List]

Rob,

My Landfall 35 experienced an OEM water heater leakage/failure last winter that 
dictated cutting the heater in half to remove the unit (12 Gallon Raritan) and 
replacing it with a much smaller Isotherm unit (6 gal) so I didn’t need to 
remove the diesel to install a new heater.  Rob Ball was pretty sure they 
installed both the heater and the diesel prior to dropping the deck on the boat 
when new, although the boat was built in RI and he was in NOTL.  Since the 
Yanmar 3HM is oriented backwards in the boat (with a V-drive), access to any 
belts, pulleys, pumps, etc always meant moving the water heater to the side to 
perform service.  With the smaller heater, I can get to one of the water pump 
impellers now with the heater in place… one small concession to a $800+ 
investment in hot water…

Chuck Gilchrest

S/V Half Magic

1983 35 Landfall

Padanaram, MA

 

From: CnC-List  On Behalf Of Doug Mountjoy via 
CnC-List
Sent: Tuesday, May 26, 2020 11:44 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Doug Mountjoy 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Hot Water Heater

 

Rob,

I have had 2 of these water heaters in 2 boats. Love them for the low power 
draw on shore power, Being a live aboard on 30 amps this is important in the 
winter. 

https://www.fisheriessupply.com/isotherm-spa-water-heaters

On my LF38 I had the 6.5 gal and on my LF39 I have the 8 gal. 

 

On Tue, May 26, 2020 at 6:36 AM Robert Abbott via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> > wrote:

My hot water heater needs replacingthe existing one is round, 14 
inches in diameter.it should just, I mean just, come out of the 
locker without dismantling it so the new one can be no bigger.

Can anyone with experience with hot water heaters recommend a 
replacement, specific model number?

Rob Abbott
AZURA
C 32 - #277
Halifax, N.S.


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-- 

Douglas Mountjoy
253-208-1412

Port Orchard YC, WA

Rebecca Leah

C LandFall 39

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Re: Stus-List Auto pilot mounting 37/40

[Chuck Gilchrest via CnC-List]

The main reasons for having A separate attachment point for the autopilot is to 
provide system redundancy and the fact that the radial Drive is not adequately 
reinforced to withstand single point steering forces.  On the radial, steering 
loads are applied to the perimeter of the wheel spread out around the 
circumference and the casting has reinforced ribs to support the radial loads.  
If the autopilot ram were to overpower the strength of the radial wheel, the 
wheel could crack or break rendering both the cable steering and the linear 
drive ram inoperative.
In certain boats like a Landfall 38, there’s just no room for a tiller arm, so 
folks will build up the radial drive with reinforcement plates above and below 
the wheel and through bolt the attachment point through 3 layers of metal to 
mitigate any torsional loads from the ram.  Having the ram well aligned will 
help in this application.
Chuck Gilchrest 
S/V Half Magic 
1983 35 Landfall 
Padanaram MA

Sent from my iPhone

> On May 25, 2020, at 3:43 PM, Chris Riedinger via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> 
> https://photos.app.goo.gl/g1ViKUJJeLnRauD47
> 
> Here's ours
> 
>> On Mon, May 25, 2020, 12:22 PM Ken Heaton via CnC-List 
>>  wrote:
>> Hi Len,
>> 
>> Many people will say you should not attach your autopilot to your quadrant, 
>> but instead install another independent arm onto the rudder shaft.
>> 
>> Still, ours is attached to our quadrant (Radial Wheel) and we've had no 
>> problems with it there in 12 years.  We aren't sailing around the world 
>> though.
>> 
>> Photos here: 
>> 
>> https://photos.app.goo.gl/GDctE5v2j7jdphxr7
>> https://photos.app.goo.gl/mbUNnFetP4DzAZUW8
>> 
>> Ken H.
>> 
>> 
>>> On Mon, 25 May 2020 at 15:31, Len Mitchell via CnC-List 
>>>  wrote:
>>> Does anyone have pictures of their Auto Pilot linear drive installation to 
>>> the quadrant? So mounted in the port side lazarette. I have below deck 
>>> pics. TIA 
>>> Len Mitchell
>>> Crazy Legs
>>> 1989 37+
>>> Midland On. 
>>> 
>>> 
>>> Sent from my mobile device. 
>>> ___
>>> 
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>>> every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use 
>>> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>>> 
>> ___
>> 
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>> every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use 
>> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>> 
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> 
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> every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use 
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
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Re: Stus-List APS is closing

[Chuck Gilchrest via CnC-List]

Agreed.  As I also did a bit of one design racing over the past 10 or so years 
in Lasers and Etchells, APS was one of the few one stop dealers on the East 
Coast where you could buy hard and soft goods.  I don’t know how much the SNAFU 
with Laser Performance hurt their ability to service the small boat market 
which was a high percentage of their hardware business.

  In a letter sent out to customers and vendors, their owner said the 
transition to strictly soft goods was going great but that the timing of the 
pandemic didn’t allow them to generate sufficient income to pay for inventory 
purchased in the fall and keep the business afloat.  Just goes to show you how 
fragile the rec marine market can be.  Seems like every economic downturn 
claims a few good boat builders and businesses.  So don’t buy marine products 
at Amazon if you want your local chandleries to stay in business.

Chuck Gilchrest 

> 


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Re: Stus-List APS is closing

[Chuck Gilchrest via CnC-List]

As of Thursday their storefront is shut. All clearance is online..mostly 30% 
off.
Chuck Gilchrest 
Half Magic

Sent from my iPhone

> On May 22, 2020, at 12:09 PM, Joel Aronson via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> 
> All,
> 
> APS in Annapolis, which became a clothing/foul weather gear store last year, 
> is going out of business.  Everything is on sale.
> 
> I hope everyone has a safe windy weekend.
> 
> -- 
> Joel 
> 
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> 
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> every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use 
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
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Re: Stus-List NavPod -- Anyone Have One Of There? (Link Below)

[Chuck Gilchrest via CnC-List]

I have one on my boat but located the arm so the pod centers inside the guard, 
not off to the side.  One misconception is that the pod will rotate on the arm. 
 Not so.  It is designed to be fixed and will loosen up if left to rotate on 
the arm.  An inexpensive articulating instrument arm that allows wiring to run 
internally would be a godsend to most cruising sailors and electronics 
installers.
Chuck Gilchrest 
Half Magic
35 Landfall


Sent from my iPhone

> On Apr 23, 2020, at 3:38 PM, Edd Schillay via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> Listers, 
> 
> Seeing as I do sometimes like to drive from the sides rather than the hump, 
> has anyone ever installed one of these? 
> 
> https://navpod.com/wp-content/uploads/2017/08/RMX4900_Back_a-697x700.jpg
> 
> Any pros or cons? 
> 
> Stay safe everyone. 
> 
> All the best,
> 
> Edd
> 
> 
> Edd M. Schillay
> Captain of the Starship Enterprise
> C 37+ | Sail No: NCC-1701-B
> Venice Yacht Club | Venice Island, FL
> 
> Starship Enterprise's Captain's Log
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
>   
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ___
> 
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
> every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use 
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> 
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Re: Stus-List Linear Auto Pilot install 37+/40

[Chuck Gilchrest via CnC-List]

Tom,
Thought I'd weigh in as a former Edsonite..  The most important thing to 
realize when installing the autopilot is that the clamping action of the arm 
and cap for the tiller arm is the primary form of attachment to the rudder 
post.  Edson makes the arm with a .002" clamping tolerance to the diameter of 
the rudder post.  The secondary or "failsafe" attachment is a key, through 
bolt, or set screws.  When you order your tiller arm, don't assume that C 
always used the same diameter stainless post for every boat and model.  It's 
important to get precise measurement of the post where you wish to attach the 
arm, preferably using a digital caliper to achieve the proper tolerance.  
Measure the exact diameter of the post, and take several measurements as you 
rotate the caliper around the post at a variety of positions where the tiller 
arm will attach.  When Edson bores the arm to your specification, they'll 
insert a small piece of paper between the arm and cap.  Removing it will give 
the arm the proper undersized clamping tolerance needed for the arm to grab the 
post without slippage.  Again, the keyway or through bolt should prevent the 
arm from rotating ONLY if the clamping tolerance is compromised, as in a hard 
grounding, rudder stop failure, or other drastic event.

As you've found, if there's no accessible keyway cut in the post, the through 
bolt method is preferred if the post is hollow (typical with  SS posts) or set 
screws if the post is solid (usually with a bronze rudder post).  Getting the 
arm positioned to drill the post and tiller arm can be problematic, finding a 
drill bit long enough to get it in place and then drilling through the hard 
steel (thus the need for a carbide bit and some lubricating oil to prevent work 
hardening the bit) but avoid the temptation to "pre drill" the arm before 
installing on the post.  This is because the likelihood of you being able to 
match up the holes on the post with the holes on the arm are not great given 
the confined space you'll have to work with and the difficulty of keeping the 
drill level while you work.
The tiller arm has a very important plus side as it enables your autopilot to 
serve as an emergency tiller in the event of a steering system failure such as 
a fractured radial drive, cable breakage or idler failure.  Finally, make sure 
that the autopilot isn't set up as the rudder stop as damage to the autopilot 
can occur.
Good luck with the install and Edson is a good source for advice..
Chuck Gilchrest
S/V Half Magic
1983 35 Landfall
Padanaram, MA

-Original Message-
From: CnC-List  On Behalf Of Tom Buscaglia via 
CnC-List
Sent: Sunday, April 19, 2020 6:19 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Tom Buscaglia https://www.paypal.me/stumurray



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Re: Stus-List Cruising Love

[Chuck Gilchrest via CnC-List]

Remember Reid Stow?  https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cZNhvJjGH_4
His amorous circumnavigation adventures were New York Times fodder for a while. 
 A tad eccentric..
Good luck with this Will...

Chuck Gilchrest
S/V Half Magic

-Original Message-
From: CnC-List  On Behalf Of Will Gerstmyer via 
CnC-List
Sent: Thursday, April 9, 2020 3:19 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Will Gerstmyer 
Subject: Stus-List Cruising Love

This may be the weirdest posting but i like this forum and it is important to 
me so I’ll risk asking. 
I am seeking a 50-60-ish woman who wants to cruise the world with me, a 
live-aboard. Oh, and we need to fall in love, too. 
I needn’t be the captain. 
My profile “Bohemon” can be found on freebie site OKCupid or simply write/call 
me. 
Yes I can single-hand my boat but that isn’t the dream. 

Will Gerstmyer 
1986 C 41 
Portland ME (at present)
978-609-1331
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Re: Stus-List Halyard problem

[Chuck Gilchrest via CnC-List]

The luff of my headsail, procured by the PO, is roughly 5” short compared to 
the headstay and halyard wraps were common (usually at inopportune times).  
Rather than extending the sail attachment at the furler drum,  I added a short 
length of 3/16” Spectra 12 strand rope to the head of the jib that connects to 
the swivel, thus allowing the swivel to ride up to the top of the foil to 
create sufficient angle of deflection between the halyard and headstay.

It hasn’t been perfect, as depending on the wind direction, there have been 
times when it is still tough to furl, but a big improvement overall.  The next 
sail will be better measured.

Chuck Gilchrest

S/V Half Magic

1983 35 Landfall

Padanaram, MA  

 

From: CnC-List  On Behalf Of Matt Wolford via 
CnC-List
Sent: Thursday, April 9, 2020 12:18 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: wolf...@erie.net
Subject: Re: Stus-List Halyard problem

 

FYI, a related issue may be how close your upper furler assembly is to the top 
of the forestay.  I was having all kinds of halyard wrapping problems and 
considered installing a halyard restrainer.  As an interim step, I added a long 
D shackle between the tack of the sail and the drum fitting (deck level), which 
raised the sail about 2 inches.  This was sufficient to resolve my problem 
without adding a restrainer.

 

-Original Message-
From: David Knecht via CnC-List mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> >
To: CnC CnC discussion list mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> >
Cc: David Knecht mailto:davidakne...@gmail.com> >
Sent: Thu, Apr 9, 2020 10:44 am
Subject: Re: Stus-List Halyard problem

Francois emailed me off list to say that with the same rig, he has no halyard 
restrainer and has never had a problem with halyard wrap.  So I am considering 
removing the restrainer.  This is surely to some extent rig specific, but I am 
wondering  

 

1.  how many people have them and how many don’t

2.  If without, have you had halyard wrap problems? 

 

David Knecht

S/V Aries

1990 C 34+

New London, CT




 

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Re: Stus-List Edson Wheel Removal

[Chuck Gilchrest via CnC-List]

If the shaft is a 1” straight shaft (pre 2000), the key is square and not 
tapered.  Tapered shafts in later years have a Woodruff key which is crescent 
shaped.
A liberal application of PBlaster, left to sit overnight should do the trick.  
The issue is the key is made from mild hardened steel and is prone to rust.
Chuck Gilchrest
Former Edson employee 

Sent from my iPhone

> On Apr 7, 2020, at 6:28 PM, John Irvin via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
>  It is a tapered key.
> 
> Sent from my iPhone
> 
>>> On Apr 7, 2020, at 6:22 PM, John Conklin via CnC-List 
>>>  wrote:
>>> 
>> 
>> Hi,
>> Silly question here but doing some Maintenance on the crunchy  AutoHelm 
>> ST4000, and plenty of you tube on fixing that belt /drive.. I have an esdon 
>> Pedestal with the control levers (up , Down)  on each side which appear 
>> original for sure.
>> BUT the Silly Edson Wheel! after nut removal,  wheel slides out (snug but 
>> easily) to a certain point just past spokes, and sticks there?  Almost like 
>> its tapered?  You can see in picture here the Keyway ? 
>> https://www.dropbox.com/s/ust0nvmoxir3yh2/wheel2.jpg?dl=0
>> Does this key need to be removed/loosened. Its not loose at all. Or do I 
>> need to just put little more lube and little more elbow grease? I don’t want 
>> to damage threads , or wheel for sure!
>> Need to fix this for some Solo sailing on Halcyon this week, at least that’s 
>> my excuse. We are allowed to sail and I intend to do so,with or without Auto 
>> Pilot. However, Otto driving into the wind would be nice, as it was blowing 
>> 25+ yesterday ! 
>>  
>> Thanks!
>>  
>> John Conklin
>> ___
>> 
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>> every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use 
>> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
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> 
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> every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use 
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
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Re: Stus-List Electronics Question...

[Chuck Gilchrest via CnC-List]

David,

Half Magic has an antique Raytheon 1200 radar down at the nav station where it 
takes up as much room as a medium sized refrigerator or microwave (and nearly 
as much power).  I’m not sure of its range as I’ve never used it offshore, but 
for needing help coming into a foggy anchorage, it serves its purpose well once 
you get a knack for distances.  I would dearly wish it talked to my 
chartplotter using an overlay so I don’t need to have somebody down below 
telling me where the obstacles are located.

 

The downside to any older radar (or chartplotter for that matter) is power 
consumption and to a certain degree electronic interference with your compass.  
I remember steering a boat that had an early RL72 and when you switched on the 
plotter, the compass would swing about 45 degrees. And then there’s the matter 
of where to put them.   If it is at the helm, most newer instrument housings 
have a much shallower depth since they don’t need to accommodate instruments 
with large power supplies.  Check the dimensions on the instruments you want to 
acquire and think about where they’ll mount before you make the investment in 
the older technology.

 

Chuck Gilchrest

Half Magic

1983 35 Landfall

Padanaram, MA

From: CnC-List  On Behalf Of David Risch via 
CnC-List
Sent: Wednesday, March 18, 2020 7:35 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: David Risch 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Electronics Question...

 

Edd,

 

Always the pragmatic…I hope you kids are having fun “down there”   Was hoping 
to get “down there” and stay with you all a couple of weeks (months?) but you 
lucked out….

 

David F. Risch

(401) 419-4650

 

From: CnC-List mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com> > On Behalf Of Edd Schillay via CnC-List
Sent: Wednesday, March 18, 2020 7:21 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com  
Cc: Edd Schillay mailto:e...@schillay.com> >
Subject: Re: Stus-List Electronics Question...

 

David,

 

Totally worth it. Always fun to overcome challenges installing new equipment. 
And you’ll appreciate it forever. 

 

Plus it’ll keep ya busy during the whole coronavirus thing. 

All the best, 

 

Edd

 

———-

Edd M. Schillay

Captain of the “Starship Enterprise”

C 37+ | Sail No.: NCC-1701-B

Venice Yacht Club | Venice Island, FL

www.StarshipSailing.com  

———-

914.774.9767   | Mobile

———-

Sent via iPhone 11 Pro

iPhone. iTypos. iApologize

 

 

On Mar 18, 2020, at 7:17 PM, David Risch via CnC-List mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> > wrote:

 

I use my very old school radar, once, maybe twice a year.   Needing a 
chartplotter?…same.  Have Garmin GPS to a repeater and an iPad and phone with 
navigation software.  

 

Have an opportunity to pick up a Raytheon L760 plotter and RL760 Radar for 
peanuts.

 

I was wondering is it worth the aggravation pulling out the old system, and 
replacing it with newer?Radar is tired and needs a new magnetron, but still 
sees close range.  I really don’t care enough to spend $4,000+ on new 
electronics.   But spending peanuts on newish?   Maybe.

 

Thanks in advance.

 

David F. Risch

(401) 419-4650

 

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Re: Stus-List Coronavirus & Caution - The New C

[Chuck Gilchrest via CnC-List]

New Bedford YC in South Dartmouth,MA has suspended all club activities until 
some unspecified time in the future.  Some members are still gathering on 
Sunday mornings to race RC sailboats but nothing else.  Definitely will be a 
late start to the season.
Chuck Gilchrest 
S/V Half Magic
1983 35 Landfall 
Padanaram MA

Sent from my iPhone

> On Mar 18, 2020, at 2:22 PM, jim aridas via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
> 
> Chiming in late on this and probably a mute point at this time.
> But update in NJ
> I am the commodore of Manasquan River YC in Brielle and we have shut down all 
> operations.
> Events, our bar, sailing, club rentals. Realistically might be May or later.
> Metedeconk River YC in Brick NJ  all operations shut down till further notice.
> Just spoke with the General Manager at Bay Head YC and they are hoping to 
> open mid May.
> their restaurant is starting a take out program.
> Lets all hope for a quick recovery when this runs its course.
> Godspeed everyone.
> Jim Aridas
> Brielle, NJ
> Formally Galaxy, 34' C
> 
> From: CnC-List  on behalf of Mike Taylor via 
> CnC-List 
> Sent: Saturday, March 14, 2020 5:03 PM
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
> Cc: Mike Taylor 
> Subject: Re: Stus-List Coronavirus & Caution - The New C
>  
> Everything at our club is cancelled until May 2nd.  Oh wait we shut down just 
> after haul-out in Oct 
> 
> Mike
> 
>>> On Mar 14, 2020, at 2:22 PM, Shawn Wright via CnC-List 
>>>  wrote:
>>> 
>> 
>> Our club just closed the bar and clubhouse, and Sunday races are cancelled 
>> for the next 3 weekends. Other local clubs are revoking reciprocals also, 
>> but I haven't heard about regattas being cancelled yet. I suspect they will 
>> be.
>> 
>> --
>> Shawn Wright
>> shawngwri...@gmail.com
>> S/V Callisto, 1974 C 35
>> https://www.facebook.com/SVCallisto
>> 
>> 
>> On Sat, Mar 14, 2020 at 5:48 AM Edd Schillay via CnC-List 
>>  wrote:
>> Listers,
>> 
>> I’m curious to know what your local clubs are doing in response to the 
>> COVID-19 pandemic. We have a regatta scheduled for April 4 and we are 
>> already discussing cancelling the skippers meeting and post-race festivities 
>> - perhaps cancelling the event altogether. 
>> 
>> What are you seeing in your areas? 
>> 
>> Hope everyone on the list remains safe. 
>> 
>> All the best, 
>> 
>> Edd
>> 
>> ———-
>> Edd M. Schillay
>> Captain of the “Starship Enterprise”
>> C 37+ | Sail No.: NCC-1701-B
>> Venice Yacht Club | Venice Island, FL
>> www.StarshipSailing.com
>> ———-
>> 914.774.9767   | Mobile
>> ———-
>> Sent via iPhone 11 Pro
>> iPhone. iTypos. iApologize
>> 
>> ___
>> 
>> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
>> every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use 
>> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>> 
>> ___
>> 
>> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
>> every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use 
>> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>> 
> ___
> 
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> every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use 
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
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Re: Stus-List Dumb question of the day - life rings, horseshoe or cushion?

[Chuck Gilchrest via CnC-List]

If you buy the full Lifesling kit, it comes with a block and tackle to help 
pull a MOB back onto the boat.  In 6’ seas, don’t expect to use a swim ladder 
to bring a hypothermic 200lb man back on the boat, especially if you are the 
lone person left onboard.
Arguably, a ring buoy may be able to be thrown farther than the lifesling, but 
in each situation, the recovery method involves circling the swimmer to draw 
the recovery device to the person.
Chuck Gilchrest 
S/V Half Magic
1983 Landfall 35
Padanaram MA 

Sent from my iPhone

> On Mar 2, 2020, at 6:02 PM, John Irvin via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
>  Canada requires ring.
> 
> Sent from my iPhone
> 
>>> On Mar 2, 2020, at 5:56 PM, Bruce Whitmore via CnC-List 
>>>  wrote:
>>> 
>> 
>> So I have a lifesling and a throwable cushion.  Yet, I see lots of boats 
>> with horseshoes, and commercial boats with life rings.  
>> 
>> Is there an inherent reason for one design over another? 
>> 
>> Bruce Whitmore
>> 1994 C 37/40+
>> "Astralis"
>> Madeira Beach, FL 
>> (847) 404-5092 (mobile)
>> bwhitm...@sbcglobal.net
>> ___
>> 
>> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
>> every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use 
>> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>> 
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> 
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> every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use 
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Re: Stus-List New Sails...

[Chuck Gilchrest via CnC-List]

We always had North Sails on Zoomer and the Jib’s were 3DL on the #1 but the 2 
and 3 were Dacron then Kevlar reinforced.  Main was Dacron but radial cut, not 
cross cut.  They lasted at least 7 years with regular buoy racing.
Did you talk to Ben Sperry?  He’s still sailing with Dacron on Gentian and does 
very well both in distance an buoy events.  Plus he’s very local.
Cheers,
Chuck Gilchrest 
Half Magic
1983 35 LF
Padanaram MA
Sent from my iPhone

> On Jan 15, 2020, at 5:37 PM, David Risch via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
> 
> Hello,
>  
> I am sure we have been there and done that, but please indulge me…
>  
> Going through the process of shopping for new sails.   Not a small budget 
> item for a 40.   Know the arguments of local vs. national vs. offshore.   
> Cruising with offshore racing and cruising with occasional beer can.   Main 
> and 125%. Leaning toward high quality Dacron cross-cut as they are easier 
> to repair and I do not want to get into the laminates.   Blew a big budget on 
> those years ago  
>  
> Specific questions are regarding cloth choices generally and specifically as 
> C & C  have tall skinny mains (especially the 40).  What has been your 
> experiences with the differing sail lofts?  I am getting prices with 50% 
> swings and that is a bit mind-boggling as I am getting information that many 
> sails are built in the same lofts overseas and re-branded.  I am sure that is 
> an over-simplification, but there it is.   Difficult to compare pricing with 
> the cloth specs being a foreign language to me.
>  
> Thanks in advance.
>  
> David F. Risch
> (401) 419-4650
>  
> ___
> 
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> every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use 
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
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Re: Stus-List cleaning the bilge

[Chuck Gilchrest via CnC-List]

These bilge cleaner pad work well.  Make sure there’s fresh water in the bilge 
and periodically stir up the water to oxygenate.
The microbes will consume the oil leaving just fresh water that can be pumped 
overboard.  
https://www.defender.com/product.jsp?id=2724413
Chuck Gilchrest 

Sent from my iPhone

> On Jan 2, 2020, at 12:55 PM, Dennis C. via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
> 
> A shop vac might come in handy also.  Any oil/water collected can be poured 
> through an oil absorbent pad.
> 
> Dennis C.
> 
>> On Thu, Jan 2, 2020 at 10:30 AM Gary Nylander via CnC-List 
>>  wrote:
>> A roll of paper towels and a bottle of Simple Green should to the trick 
>> unless you have a pool of oil, then two rolls will be better. Just did some 
>> of that stuff.
>> 
>> Gary
>> 
>> 30-1
>> 
>>  
>> 
>> From: CnC-List  On Behalf Of Bev Parslow via 
>> CnC-List
>> Sent: Thursday, January 2, 2020 10:54 AM
>> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
>> Cc: Bev Parslow 
>> Subject: Stus-List cleaning the bilge
>> 
>>  
>> 
>> Need to clean out an oily bilge. Can I use a normal degreaser, or will that 
>> mess up the bilge pump? Any thoughts?
>> 
>> ___
>> 
>> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
>> every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use 
>> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>> 
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> 
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> every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use 
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Re: Stus-List Outboard Fic-x Follow-Up...

[Chuck Gilchrest via CnC-List]

Dave,
When an engine overheats, lubricants can’t provide the protection they are 
designed for and parts will wear at an accelerated rate, specifically pistons 
and rings.  When that occurs, you tend to lose compression which results in a 
hard starting condition.  This will also usually lead to some oil consumption 
that is manifested in the form of a grayish smoke.  Low compression can 
additionally create low power and incomplete combustion which results in poor 
fuel economy and black smoke.  If your engine is a 4 stroke model, check your 
valve clearances as those can change with an overheating event.  If you have 
access to a compression gauge with the proper threaded adapter for you plug 
size, you can compare cold compression readings with what is recommended in the 
manual to determine any top end damage.
Chuck Gilchrest 
S/V Half Magic 
83 35 Landfall 


Sent from my iPhone

> On Dec 20, 2019, at 10:44 AM, David Knecht via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> I had my first rebuilding experience with my aging Suzuki 2.5 this month.  I 
> decided to do a carburetor rebuild as the motor was not starting or running 
> well.  Thanks to the wonders of the internet, I found several YouTube videos 
> describing the process.  I found it to be pretty straightforward to 
> disassemble and reassemble.  To my surprise, it looked really clean inside 
> with no obvious problem areas.  I used carb cleaner and replaced a few 
> gaskets, new spark plug, put it back together.  Then I disassembled the lower 
> unit and greased and replaced gaskets and impeller there.  I added lube and 
> tried to start it.  I took many many pulls to finally get it to start, and I 
> was willing to write that off to needing to get fuel through an empty system. 
>  To my dismay, it was very hard to start every time I shut it down, even when 
> fairly warm (harder than before disassembly).  So I did not improve its 
> performance at all as far as I can tell.  I did not disassemble the cylinder 
> head and did not find a YouTube for that adventure.  The motor did have an 
> overheat incident when the water pump failed a few years ago and has never 
> run the same since, so I suspect that is part of the problem, but I can’t see 
> how that would affect starting.  Anyone have suggestions on whether it is 
> worth further disassembly?  Thanks- Dave
>  
> S/V Aries
> 1990 C 34+
> New London, CT
> 
> 
> 
>> On Dec 20, 2019, at 9:48 AM, David Risch via CnC-List 
>>  wrote:
>> 
>> A few months ago I reached out to you folks with some mystery outboard 
>> questions.   .  Thank you to those who reached out.  After solving the 
>> problems I thought would share as to what were the problems and solutions.
>>  
>> The dripping fuel was not from some mysterious, unobtainium (according to 
>> the previous overpaid and underperforming mechanic) needle valve.  It was 
>> the fuel petcock beneath the tank.   It
>> seems it was always dripping (bummer) but only obvious to me when the engine 
>> was raised and dripping into the boat.  When underway with all the bits of 
>> water flying about it was not so discernable.
>>  
>> The “dry exhaust” noise was actually a missing (actually it fell into the 
>> lower leg) gasket which surrounds the gear shift leg which protrudes up and 
>> out of the lower drive leg.  When put in reverse the leg engages (up) the 
>> reverse bracket lock that prevent the engine from reversing itself out of 
>> the water.  You should see it midway up on the front side of the leg.  
>> Without the gasket the exhaust gasses which normally flow down and out into 
>> the water were escaping unmuffled.
>>  
>> These seemingly mysterious problems and their causes became quickly apparent 
>> once I started pulling things apart and figuring out how these little 
>> marvels actually work.  And also carefully observing the engine while 
>> running on land.  Lesson learned that although I can fix most things I 
>> should not have be so hesitant with the outboards.   And I know my fixes are 
>> correct and I will not be cursing the mechanic next spring while stuck with 
>> a still-not-running-right kicker.   And have another boat buck to spend on 
>> “funner” things.
>> Oh and replacing the impellor is not so hard either…
>>  
>> David F. Risch
>> (401) 419-4650
>>  
>> ___
>> 
>> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
>> every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use 
>> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> 
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> 
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
> every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use 
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> 
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Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is 

Re: Stus-List PHRF Reviews and Adjustments

[Chuck Gilchrest via CnC-List]

David,

PHRF NE covers not only Buzzards Bay but also Cape Cod Bay and Marblehead
the latter being a notoriously light air location in the summer.  It seems
like various regions try to gauge averages to meet the widest range of
sailing conditions.  In YRLIS, an area for which the C 40 was designed to
provide an alternative to the NY 40,  the C 40 handicaps range from 90-99
base rating depending on rig, keel, and year whereas PHRF-NE the range is
87-102.  Why?  Who knows?  Maybe certain boats were kicking butt and
somebody got the ear of the local handicapper and everything went sideways
after that.. It could happen.   I do remember there were several fast 40s in
Buzzards Bay that took full advantage of their rating such as Blair Brown's
Grayhound and Bill Dingwell's Zoomer.

I still think the most fair way to handle the PHRF rating conundrum is to
have a handicap for both the boat and the crew.  Hard to do without having a
past performance index for the crew, but one or two races to accumulate some
results might really level the playing field and reward crews and boats that
make big improvements over the course of a year or two.   Our YC has a
system where when a boat wins a Wednesday night beercan race, they get 10
points subtracted from their handicap for the rest of the month.  2 wins,
-20 seconds (which is the max penalty for the month).  At the beginning of
each month, the handicap reverts to their certificate handicap issued by the
local PHRF person.

I suspect that back when many of our boats were being built and raced,
nobody gave much  thought to any rating other than IOR.

Chuck Gilchrest

S/V Half Magic

1983 35 Landfall

Padanaram, MA

 



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Re: Stus-List Changing seacock values

[Chuck Gilchrest via CnC-List]

David,

When I did the same job on my 75 25 Mk 1 many years ago, I simply unscrewed
the gate valves from the through hulls and brought the valve with me to my
marine retailer and matched the threads to reinstall the new valves..  Since
most through hulls are bonded to the hull using some impenetrable goop like
3M 5200, you'll risk damaging the laminate if you try to muscle the through
hull out of the hull and I had no issues unscrewing the gate valve out of
the through hull threads.  I was informed by folks much smarter than me,
that gate valves can be very prone to failure and when they do fail, there's
no means of shutting the flow of water through the valve.  Rather than
questioning, I took their advice and got all the gate valves out of the
boat.

 

Chuck Gilchrest

SV Half Magic

83 35 Landfall

Padanaram, MA

 

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Re: Stus-List Solar panels - now charger/inverters

[Chuck Gilchrest via CnC-List]

Thanks Dennis.
I also wonder if a dedicated inverter may absorb less battery power in the 
conversion process than a multi-function inverter/charger.  I guess ultimately 
it’s a matter of getting the right one to suit one’s needs.  I rarely have 
access to shore power except when the boat is on the hard but would enjoy using 
that juice to top off the battery banks when my solar panels come down and the 
shrink wrap goes on.
Chuck Gilchrest 
S/V Half Magic 
1983 35 Landfall 
Padanaram MA

Sent from my iPhone

> On Sep 24, 2019, at 3:40 PM, Dennis C. via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
> Chuck,
> 
> Just a philosophical comment on charger/inverters.  I personally don't like 
> them.  Others may disagree.
> 
> If either side dies, you're screwed.  I prefer to install a separate charger 
> and a separate inverter.
> 
> Dennis C.
> Touche' 35-1 #83
> Mandeville, LA
> 
> 
>> Any suggestions for charger/inverters would be appreciated.
>> 
>> Chuck Gilchrest
>> 
>> 
>> 
> ___
> 
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
> every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use 
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> 
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Re: Stus-List Solar panels

[Chuck Gilchrest via CnC-List]

I have a similar set up with 2 semi-flexible 100w panels installed on my
bimini.  We were able to stitch Velcro around the perimeter of the panels
with the nap side facing up.  Then we stitched "fold over" tabs with the
hook Velcro facing down on the bimini so one could lay the panels directly
atop the bimini and secure the panels with the coordinating Velcro tabs.
The tabs run the entire length of the panels, both fore and aft and
athwartships providing a secure installation that resists wind from getting
underneath the panels.  This installation allows me to remove both panels
and canvas in the event of storms or bad weather.  I only have the panels
hooked up to the house bank of batteries (2 wet cell group 31) and rely on
the alternator to keep the starting battery (group 27) charged, although I
can combine battery banks to start the diesel if the starter battery gets
low.  Our boat lives on a mooring.

Contemplating buying a combination battery charger/inverter this winter to
replace the Promariner Protech 1240 charger that died last summer.
Promariner no longer has replacement parts for the existing charger although
I suspect a knowledgeable electronics guy could likely find a bad diode or
capacitor and make an easy repair. maybe.   My wife enjoys using her Keurig
onboard and the toaster/oven is about a 1200w draw.  I would love to not
need to haul around the portable 2000w Honda Generator which I'm sure makes
no friends in the morning in a quiet harbor..

Any suggestions for charger/inverters would be appreciated.

Chuck Gilchrest

S/V Half Magic

1983 35 Landfall

Padanaram, MA

From: CnC-List  On Behalf Of Andrew Walther
via CnC-List
Sent: Tuesday, September 24, 2019 12:46 PM
To: Len Mitchell ; CNC List 
Cc: Andrew Walther 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Solar panels

 

Thanks Len - I've seen up to about 180 watts but only really clear day when
sun was directly overhead.  It's surprising though with cloud cover I have
also seen 70-80 watts.  We don't have hug loads the fridge being the main
one.  We were away for a month this year and had several 2-3 day anchorages
where we never had to run the engine - very pleased with the whole thing.

 

If anybody is interested this is what we installed...

 

2 x 100 Watt Panels
 

 

MPPT Controller
 

 

Reasonably easy install also.

 

Andy

 

 

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Re: Stus-List America's Cup

[Chuck Gilchrest via CnC-List]

Rule 2 would certainly cut down those pesky Swiss challenges 
Rule 5 needs to be amended to include a bottle of angustora bitters and swizzle 
sticks
Chuck Gilchrest 
S/V Half Magic

Sent from my iPhone

> On Sep 18, 2019, at 10:00 AM, Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> Rules I want:
> 1.  The boats are crewed by natives.
> 2.  They sail from the challenging club to the site of the race.
> 3.  Boats must contain at least 1,000 pounds of teak.
> 4.  At least one person on each boat must look and sound like Thurston 
> Howell.
> 5.  Boats must carry ice, rum, pineapple juice, and a blender.
>  
>  
> Joe Della Barba
> Coquina
>  
>  
>  
> From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Gary 
> Russell via CnC-List
> Sent: Wednesday, September 18, 2019 9:48 AM
> To: C List 
> Cc: Gary Russell 
> Subject: [EXTERNAL] Re: Stus-List America's Cup
>  
> I have to go with Chuck on this one.  I agree that innovation only comes from 
> racing and I wish that we required the boats to have native crews.
>  
> Gary
> S/V Kaylarah
> '90 C 37+
> East Greenwich, RI, USA
> ___
> 
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
> every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use 
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> 
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Re: Stus-List America's Cup

[Chuck Gilchrest via CnC-List]

Hi Neil,

I'm going to have to side with Charlie on this one.  There's no shortage of
One Design regattas, perhaps the most relevant having been raced last
weekend, the NYYC Resolute Cup, a Corinthian competition between amateur
sailors from Yacht Clubs around the globe.  All sailing identical Melges
IC37 boats.  It was very important racing for those clubs involved but
received little interest outside of some industry related press.

The America's Cup has ALWAYS been a race that pitted crews and yacht
designers and engineers, even from the very first competition.  When J
Class, 12meter and ACC class boats were involved, there was always a "box
rule" that allowed for creativity and design enhancements that would allow
for innovation.  Without that innovation, we would never have molded sails,
carbon fiber spars, or lightweight high modulus yacht ropes that are so
popular with today's racers.

 

I've been a big AC fan ever since the 60's and thought back then that
Intrepid was the absolute pinnacle of sailboat racing design.  I would sit
in middle school classes and try to duplicate her lines, her trim tab and
rudder, drawing with a pencil using a French curve.  It fascinated me how
different that boat was than all the other 12meters.  Where else but in a
competition with virtually unlimited budgets would that sort of innovation
be incubated and brought to fruition?  Think of how Ben Lexan's winged keel
threw the monkey wrench  into the world of sailboat design and it still
finds its way into shoal draft keels on modern boats.  That would never
happen if the Cup was strictly a one design event.

 

My only regret is that the Cup competition no longer has a strong foundation
with regards to home grown sailors.  The free agency of international talent
with little regards to national representation has diluted the passion with
which our country follows the event.  With such a domination of Aussie and
Kiwi sailors in the cup, we appear to have lost the will to train local
skippers and crew to reach for that gold ring of excellence that was once
held by Dennis Connor, Bus Mosbacher, Paul Cayard, and even Bill Koch.  How
to change that will depend on who winds up winning the Cup in this upcoming
addition, but it is somewhat comforting that the US based challengers are
using our country name to identify the syndicate rather than their corporate
sponsor.

Go Defiant!

Chuck Gilchrest

S/V Half Magic

1983 35 Landfall

Padanaram, MA

 

From: CnC-List  On Behalf Of Neil Andersen
via CnC-List
Sent: Wednesday, September 18, 2019 8:29 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com; cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Neil Andersen 
Subject: Re: Stus-List America's Cup

 

Sorry, I'm with Charlie.  AC races should be about crews, not engineers.

 

I'm all in favor of engineering breakthroughs, but the competitors should
all be in the same boat and the race test the crew and cut of their sails. 

 

Neil

1982 C 32, FoxFire

Rock Hall, MD

 

Neil Andersen

20691 Jamieson Rd

Rock Hall, MD 21661

 

  _  

From: CnC-List mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com> > on behalf of CHARLES SCHEAFFER via
CnC-List mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> >
Sent: Tuesday, September 17, 2019 10:02 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com  
Cc: CHARLES SCHEAFFER
Subject: Re: Stus-List America's Cup 

 

Defiant looks awesome. They stated in a video that the boat foiled in her
first 90 minutes of being on the water. The video shows her turning at speed
and looking very steady proving they are doing many things right. I'm a huge
fan of Americas Cup cause it pushes the possibilities of sailing, keeps
designers and builders busy, and is very entertaining. Foiling has been
around a while but recent developments have produced foils that work at low
speeds like standup paddle boards and even surfboards. The other night I
watched an hour long documentary of Larry Ellison winning the cup back from
the Swiss several years before the foiling catamarans. I also watched a
video of a guy in Truro, England (Poldark area) building fifty foot Pilot
Cutters in wood and training young people to be builders. BTW, my boat takes
her name from an Americas Cup defender of 1920, Resolute. She was short on
the waterline with a bigger than normal sailplan and struggled but kept the
cup. She was gaff rigged with three headsails and designed by Nat Herreshoff
who designed and raced the first catamaran and designed the first fin keel w
bulb. If he were alive today, I'm sure he would be testing all the cutting
edge materials and designing foils. 

The new AC boats will be 75 feet long, foiling monohulls, no keel, no
centerboards, the foils are attached to arms that rotate the windward foil
up to act as a counterweight. Eleven man crews. New Zealand is defending
against America, England and Italy, so there will be four boats. The races
are in 2021 so they have two years to practice and improve the designs. 

Chuck Scheaffer, Resolute 1990 C 34R, Pasadena, Md




On September 17, 

Re: Stus-List Sad day, APS no longer carrying rope or hardware!

[Chuck Gilchrest via CnC-List]

I’m discouraged that APS is no longer an outlet for sailboat hardware and 
rigging.  They had a very knowledgeable staff and were a great resource for 
most things relating to sailboat racing.  They were also one of the last 
bastions of supply for one design parts, especially smaller keelboat classes 
such as Etchells, J-24, J-80, and Sonars.  Someone may eventually come along 
and fill the gaps in the supply chain, but how and when is TBD.

I will say that there’s no shortage of places to buy line and would encourage 
former APS customers to look at Defender,  R Rope,  Landfall Navigation, or 
heaven forbid, your local rigger to supply you with the ropes you need for your 
C  I think too many folks gravitate towards the “cheapest” option for buying 
cordage rather than the “best” option, all of which includes getting the right 
rope for the application rather than what’s on sale.  And as Josh discovered, 
the “sale price” of 20% off doesn’t amount to much if the regular price is 
already 20-25% higher than the local sailboat rigger would sell it to you.

I’ll miss making my annual pilgrimage to APS during the Annapolis Boat Show as 
I always enjoyed checking out the wide selection of cordage and hardware on 
hand at the store.  I do think its cool that Fawcetts is stepping up to service 
the performance sailors in Nap Town.  They’ve always been a high quality outlet 
for marine goods, but never much on servicing the racers in the past.

Chuck Gilchrest

S/V Half Magic

1983 35 Landfall

Padanaram, MA

From: CnC-List  On Behalf Of Josh Muckley via 
CnC-List
Sent: Monday, September 16, 2019 2:48 PM
To: C List 
Cc: Josh Muckley 
Subject: Stus-List Sad day, APS no longer carrying rope or hardware!

 

So I'm in the market for new jib sheets and my goto Annapolis Performance 
Sailing at APDLTD.COM   keeps throwing 404 errors.  I call 
them up a describe the problem hoping that they can simply make the order over 
the phone.  The associate tells me that they no longer carry cordage of any 
type!  She goes on to tell me that they also no longer sell ANY hardware and no 
longer perform rigging services!  I ask, what do you carry? and she says, 
apparel/accessories only.  I was completely dumbfounded since they had 
seemingly had such a large presence in the sailing community, both locally and 
on the internet.  I expressed my disappointment and wished them luck with the 
new business model.

 

Upon hanging up, I called Fawcett's which has a very limited internet presence 
but phenomenal staff and selection.  Joe was extremely helpful, he ordered a 
spool of cordage just for me, and had the 100' I needed cut, whipped and 
shipped at a better price than that of West Marine Pro (which gave ~20% 
discount).  The price comparison was close and I will have to wait 2 weeks for 
them to get the spool but I'm not in a big rush and keeping the local business 
is valuable to me.

 

Josh Muckley 

S/V Sea Hawk 

1989 C 37+

Solomons, MD 

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Re: Stus-List Landfall 35 - Manual

[Chuck Gilchrest via CnC-List]

Congratulations Peter from a fellow LF 35 trad layout owner.  While I don’t 
have a “spare” owner’s manual, I do have the original one for the boat.
It has a fair amount of generic info about do’s and Don’ts with the boat but 
not as much in the way of repair and maintenance of the various systems.  Winch 
service, refrigeration, diesel are all covered in different manuals that are 
specific to the component rather than entire boat.
Feel free to email me outside the group discussion if you need a page sent as a 
digital file (wiring diagram, sailplan etc.)
Enjoy!
Chuck Gilchrest 
S/V Half Magic 
1983 35 Landfall 
Padanaram MA

Sent from my iPhone

> On Sep 5, 2019, at 6:10 PM, Peter Cowenhoven via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> I'm a new owner of an 84 Landfall 35 traditional cabin layout! 
> 
> Does anyone know if there is a decent manual for it? I didn't see one on the 
> C site.
> 
> Thanks,
> 
> Peter
> 
> Sent from Yahoo Mail on Android
> ___
> 
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> every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use 
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> 
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Stus-List Landfall 35 delamination

[Chuck Gilchrest via CnC-List]

I’ve had no issues with delamination at the bow of my 1983 Landfall 35.  When I 
bought the boat several years back, we discovered moisture on deck just around 
the anchor locker but nothing below.  It is very easy for the anchor locker 
drain to become clogged with mud and debris, so it is best to periodically 
check the locker or run a pipe cleaner through the drain hole which exits at 
the bow.

Chuck Gilchrest

S/V Half Magic

1983 35 Landfall

Padanaram, MA

From: CnC-List  On Behalf Of Peter Cowenhoven 
via CnC-List
Sent: Tuesday, August 27, 2019 12:03 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com; cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Peter Cowenhoven 
Subject: Re: Stus-List 1981 C Inspection

 

I am currently looking at an 85 Landfall 35 the surveyor has found delamination 
in the bow above and below waterline, he says due to the construction and 
drainage of the anchor locker.  Anyone have this issue?

 

Also some delamination at water line starboard midship.

Sent from Yahoo Mail on Android 

 

 

On Tue, Aug 27, 2019 at 11:43 AM, Matthew L. Wolford via CnC-List

mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> > wrote:

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Re: Stus-List CnC logo

[Chuck Gilchrest via CnC-List]

The last built C Yachts (the C 30 One Design) had a much different logo 
than any previous C builder.

It would be interesting to know what happened to the molds for the C 110, 
120, 99, 115, and the C 30 One Design.

They have to be someplace, right?

Chuck Gilchrest

S/V Half Magic

1983 35 Landfall

Padanaram, MA

 

From: CnC-List  On Behalf Of Josh Muckley via 
CnC-List
Sent: Monday, August 5, 2019 3:33 PM
To: C List 
Cc: Josh Muckley 
Subject: Re: Stus-List CnC logo

 

http://www.shakelaw.com/blog/using-images-from-the-web-a-guide-to-fair-use/

 

Generally, I think as long as you are not profiting from the use or defaming 
the organization then you'll be fine.

 

Josh Muckley 

S/V Sea Hawk 

1989 C 37+

Solomons, MD 

 

 

 

 

On Mon, Aug 5, 2019, 2:31 PM Stu via CnC-List mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> > wrote:

Bill and others – I do not know who the current owner of the logo is.  From 
what I learned in the past – you can use the logo for personal use – just don’t 
make 100 copies and try to sell them on Flea-bay.

 

Stu

p.s. – does anybody know if C Yachts exists these days?

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Re: Stus-List Starship Enterprise - The First 15 Years (C Porn)

[Chuck Gilchrest via CnC-List]

All the Klingons and Romulans are disguised as Gators … that way they don’t 
need to deploy their cloaking devices..

 

From: CnC-List  On Behalf Of Frederick G Street 
via CnC-List
Sent: Wednesday, July 31, 2019 12:56 PM
To: Bruce Whitmore via CnC-List 
Cc: Frederick G Street 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Starship Enterprise - The First 15 Years (C Porn)

 

I think it’s the other side of the Neutral Zone…   

 

— Fred


Fred Street -- Minneapolis
S/V Oceanis (1979 C Landfall 38) -- Bayfield, WI





On Jul 31, 2019, at 10:28 AM, Richard Bush via CnC-List mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> > wrote:

 

Edd, nicely doneso, does your move to Fla put you in a different Quadrant?

 

Richard

s/v Bushmark4: 1985 C 37 CB; Ohio River, Mile 584.4

Richard N. Bush Offices 

2950 Breckenridge Lane, Suite Nine 

Louisville, Kentucky 40220-1462 

502-584-7255

 

 

-Original Message-
From: Edd Schillay via CnC-List mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> >
To: Edd Schillay via CnC-List mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> >
Cc: Edd Schillay mailto:e...@schillay.com> >
Sent: Wed, Jul 31, 2019 10:47 am
Subject: Stus-List Starship Enterprise - The First 15 Years (C Porn)

Listers, 

 

As the Enterprise (NCC-1701-B) prepares to depart City Island to start the next 
chapter, we look back at all the great memories of Eastchester Bay and Long 
Island Sound. 

 

If you have 9 minutes and 12 seconds to spare, and would like to see some great 
images of a C 37/40+ in action, feel free to take a look.

 

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lrYxdilqwZ0 

 

(All images are from dates between Stardate 10541.1 and Stardate 11957.8)


All the best,

 

Edd

 

 

Edd M. Schillay

Captain of the Starship Enterprise

C 37+ | Sail No: NCC-1701-B

Venice Yacht Club | Venice, FL

 

Starship Enterprise's Captain's Log  

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Re: Stus-List Dinghy lights

[Chuck Gilchrest via CnC-List]

If I dinghy after dark I’ll often wear a “headlight” with several LEDs that 
make me moderately visible and also help me find my boat and avoid collisions 
at night with no moonlight.  Once in Vineyard Haven when it was both dark and 
foggy, I must have driven through the mooring field for 10 minutes before I 
actually  found my boat.  Every masthead anchor light looks the same in the 
dark..

For the same reason, we use a floating dinghy painter that has reflective 
tracers so it can be seen when the dinghy hangs off the back of the boat at 
anchorage.

 

Chuck Gilchrest

S/V Half Magic

1983 35 Landfall

Padanaram, MA

From: CnC-List  On Behalf Of David Knecht via 
CnC-List
Sent: Wednesday, July 31, 2019 8:20 AM
To: CnC CnC discussion list 
Cc: David Knecht 
Subject: Stus-List Dinghy lights

 

I have a flashlight on my dinghy that I use for motoring out to my boat at 
night through the mooring field. My sense is that this is legal according to:

 

A power-driven vessel of less than 7 metres (23.0 ft) whose maximum speed does 
not exceed 7 knots (13 km/h; 8 mph) must be capable of showing a white light

 

I want to make sure this is current and I am presuming that “capable of” would 
include a handheld flashlight.  I have read a few horror stories of people 
being cited by police for violating dinghy regulations and want to make sure I 
am legal or need an all around white light.  Dave

 

S/V Aries

1990 C 34+

New London, CT




 

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Re: Stus-List Adding cover to line

[Chuck Gilchrest via CnC-List]

Before you bulk up your Halyards or change to a rope with a more aggressive 
cover, it would be good to know if the high tech but slippery halyard line is:
A. New to the boat?
B. If yes to the above, is it properly sized for the clutch?
C. If old, is there visible wear on the cover or signs of non-recoverable 
compression where the clutch holds the rope? Try end for ending the halyard to 
move the wear area to a different spot.  If wear seems excessive, replace the 
halyard before it comes apart under load.
D. Are the clutch teeth worn?  Depending on the brand of clutch, rebuild kits 
can be sourced.  If nothing else has changed on the boat and the halyard has 
just started slipping, this is the usual culprit.

Chuck Gilchrest 
S/V HalfMagic
1983 35 LF
Padanaram, MA

Sent from my iPhone

> On Jun 25, 2019, at 12:24 PM, WILLIAM WALKER via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> I have hi tech low stretch but slippery halyard which my clutches just won't 
> hold.  Thinking of adding another cover at the point where they pass through 
> clutch.
> Any thoughts or solutions beyond replacing clutches or halyards.  now I take 
> to a cleat, but cumbersome as I have both on same side with a single winch 
> and when remove from winch get a little slip before can cleat off..
> Bill Walker
> CnC 36
> Evening Star
> Pentwater, Mi.
> 
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Re: Stus-List Advice needed on Wheel nut and high water alarm

[Chuck Gilchrest via CnC-List]

Charlie,
The nut/rod combo is only for boats with pedestals installed after 1998 with 
the through shaft brake system. Unless Dave replaced his pedestal at some point 
his brake knob is on the side of the pedestal.  His wheel shaft is 1” diameter 
with a 1”-14 thread.
Chuck Gilchrest 


Sent from my iPhone

> On Jun 17, 2019, at 7:26 AM, bwhitmore via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
> Why not try finding a large stainless steel lock washer?  If nothing else, 
> order one through McMaster Carr.
> 
> 
> 
> Sent from Samsung tablet.
> ___
> 
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Re: Stus-List Advice needed on Wheel nut and high water alarm

[Chuck Gilchrest via CnC-List]

Absolute right.  My mistake!
Chuck

Sent from my iPhone

> On Jun 17, 2019, at 2:21 PM, Chad Osmond via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
> Blue Loctite is for pieces that need to be disassembled again, I'd suggest 
> that over Red for your case.
> 
>> On Mon, Jun 17, 2019 at 2:10 PM Wade Glew via CnC-List 
>>  wrote:
>> Hi Mike
>> 
>> I got a large knurled nut (external diameter equals the hub) from Edson.  It 
>> will still come loose with some vibration over a day but I can tighten it 
>> way harder (and easier!) than with the previous smaller plastic hex nut. 
> ___
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Re: Stus-List Advice needed on Wheel nut and high water alarm

[Chuck Gilchrest via CnC-List]

Dave, 
The coarse threads in Edson’s straight 1” wheel shaft makes it somewhat easy 
for the wheel nut to loosen due to vibration and general use.  A dab of red 
loctite will do the trick, but needs to be applied each time you remove the 
nut.  Edson also makes a larger OD quick release nut which can be hand 
tightened but is somewhat pricey.
Chuck Gilchrest 
s/V Half Magic 

Sent from my iPhone

> On Jun 16, 2019, at 10:20 PM, David Knecht via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> Hi and Happy Father’s Day to all Father’s.  I have a couple of questions for 
> the list:
> 
> 1.The wheel nut on my Edson wheel is constantly loosening itself while 
> sailing.  Does anyone have a good fix for this problem so it is removable but 
> does not loosen itself?  
> 
> 2.  I am planning to install a high water alarm as required by my insurance 
> company.  Is there any guidance as to the most apprpriate height for placing 
> the sensor?  Below flooring?  Above flooring?  I already have a emergency 
> float switch under the floorboards near the top of the curve of the hull ( 
> above the top of the bilge) so not sure how this sensor should relate to that 
> switch.  
> 
> Thanks- Dave
> 
> S/V Aries
> 1990 C 34+
> New London, CT
> 
> 
> 
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Re: Stus-List Looking for a crew spot in Seattle

[Chuck Gilchrest via CnC-List]

Thanks for the invite Alan.  Unfortunately I won’t be free to go sailing til 
Tuesday and Wednesday night.  Good luck and sail fast!
Chuck

Sent from my iPhone

> On May 31, 2019, at 3:19 PM, ALAN BERGEN via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
> I have crew driving to Tacoma, tomorrow morning for the Summer Vashon race. 
> Let me know if you want to join us. It's a day race, and they'll return to 
> Portland tomorrow.
> 
> Alan Bergen
> Thirsty
> 503-358-6981
> 
>> On Fri, May 31, 2019 at 10:31 AM Chuck Gilchrest via CnC-List 
>>  wrote:
>> I’m traveling to Seattle for business this week and if any listers are 
>> looking for crew next Tuesday or Wednesday nights, I’d love to get a ride.  
>> I’m available for anything from rail meet, grinder, mast, sewer, sail trim.  
>> Not a great driver and tactics/nav in a new body of water may not be prudent.
>> Give me a shout off list if there’s a seat to be had.  I’ll bring adult 
>> beverages...
>> Chuck Gilchrest 
>> S/V Half Magic
>> 
>> 
>> Sent from my iPhone
>> 
>> ___
>> 
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>> every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use 
>> PayPal to send contribution --   
>> https://urldefense.proofpoint.com/v2/url?u=https-3A__www.paypal.me_stumurray=DwIGaQ=clK7kQUTWtAVEOVIgvi0NU5BOUHhpN0H8p7CSfnc_gI=9w3G7Cf8YfQnrjmtuNxwDJYr3JMv9f1pAfgAJ9xXYQQ=IUuLSAriGpVn48zxrY7_7F2v5C59P8YmSTM_AOluZ1M=WsqF19aB1-BWKDadOKjlCZU7c4bk0IsWPusL6tnXcvM=
>> 
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Stus-List Looking for a crew spot in Seattle

[Chuck Gilchrest via CnC-List]

I’m traveling to Seattle for business this week and if any listers are looking 
for crew next Tuesday or Wednesday nights, I’d love to get a ride.  I’m 
available for anything from rail meet, grinder, mast, sewer, sail trim.  Not a 
great driver and tactics/nav in a new body of water may not be prudent.
Give me a shout off list if there’s a seat to be had.  I’ll bring adult 
beverages...
Chuck Gilchrest 
S/V Half Magic


Sent from my iPhone

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Re: Stus-List Not shifting fwd to reverse

[Chuck Gilchrest via CnC-List]

Have you tried disconnecting the cable at the gearbox and shifting into gear 
using only your hands?  Generally gearboxes (other than mechanical boxes on A4s 
or Paragon boxes) will snick in and out of gear with very little effort.  If 
the cable is antique(as in the original cable for the boat) go ahead and buy a 
new one, same length as the old one before it breaks or the gear shift on the 
pedestal breaks.  Since the cables use a solid rod inside the cable housing, 
wear will occur wherever the cable makes a bend.  It is undetectable to the eye 
and it will make the gearbox increasingly harder to put in gear.  If the boat 
won’t engage in either forward or reverse, I’ll put my money on the cable or 
the cable holder inside the pedestal shifter as the offending part.
My Landfall 35 has a shift mechanism at the pedestal that Edson stopped making 
in the 80’s with no replacement parts.  Same Hurth V drive on the 3HM Yanmar. 
Keeping the gear shifter functional saves me from a huge pedestal refit job.
Chuck Gilchrest 
S/V Half Magic
1983 35 Landfall 
Padanaram, MA

Sent from my iPhone

> On May 20, 2019, at 7:40 PM, detroito91 via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
> 
> It's been one year since the last problem...coupling bolts shearing off. 
> Wrong grade bolts. Couldn't race in the regatta. 
> New year..same regatta.   We won the regatta but couldn't sail home. Wouldn't 
> shift into gear to leave docks. Shift cables are moving,  v-drive is filled 
> with oil. What do I check next? Has been slow to shift into gear lately. Will 
> take all suggestions. 
> 81 38 landfall with v-drive  transmission. 
> Jim Schwartz 
> SEA YA!
> 38 landfall 
> Washington nc
> 
> 
> Sent from my Verizon, Samsung Galaxy smartphone
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> 
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Re: Stus-List Source for replacement lifelines in Toronto? Now general lifeline information

[Chuck Gilchrest via CnC-List]

Even for those worried about UV degradation and chafe, New England makes a 
Dyneema double braid specifically for lifelines called wr2

https://www.neropes.com/products/performance-cruising/product/detail/wr2-ultra/

It has a coated outer braid that, while more difficult to splice, has all the 
strength and low stretch characteristics of a single braid with the added 
protection of a Dyneema outer jacket.  C. Sherman Johnson Marine offers their 
Splice Line fittings that are nicely rounded and radiused to be kind to rope 
constructions and facilitate gates and other adjustable end terminations. 

http://www.csjohnson.com/news/splice_line_fittings.php

I believe Hayn and Suncor have also developed specialty terminations that are 
less likely to chafe high modulus rope lifelines.

With a bit of care and planning, the high strength lines can be installed at a 
significant savings over comparable steel  wire and swaged fittings.

Chuck Gilchrest

S/V Half Magic

1983 35 Landfall

Padanaram, MA

 

From: CnC-List  On Behalf Of Bill Coleman via 
CnC-List
Sent: Tuesday, May 14, 2019 1:37 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Bill Coleman 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Source for replacement lifelines in Toronto? Now general 
lifeline information

 

Spoken like a true rope guy.

I was thinking of a  positive plug, but decided to lurk through this one till 
now.

I think the doubting Thomas’s are just the sailors who haven’t spent much time 
with Spectra and similar materials.

I did a round of testing with North around 20 years ago, and my first 
experience with Spectra webbing was shock, I couldn’t believe how strong, 
tough, and little stretch it had, especially compared to Nylon.

I have been a believer ever since.

My lower life lines have been Spectra since 2005.

 

Bill Coleman

C 39 Erie, PA

 


On May 14, 2019, at 10:58 AM, Chuck Gilchrest mailto:csgilchr...@comcast.net> > wrote:

I’ll buy stainless wire lifelines the day the Spectra on my boat starts to rust.

 

Chuck Gilchrest 

S/V Half Magic

1983 35 Landfall 

Sent from my iPhone


On May 14, 2019, at 9:22 AM, Josh Muckley via CnC-List mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> > wrote:

Mike, you're not exactly wrong about wire but in defense of UHMPE, it doesn't 
chafe or cut as easy as most other cordage and certainly not to the degree of 
ease as cotton or hemp cordage.  In fact, when splicing I'm always surprised 
that I have to make sure that my knife is quite sharp.  I actually see the 
"cutability" as a virtue since it could ease the retrieval of a MOB or clearing 
fouled rigging.  It's also relatively quick and easy to replace should you have 
to cut it. 

Josh Muckley

S/V Sea Hawk 

1989 C 37+

Solomons, MD

 

 

On Tue, May 14, 2019, 8:55 AM Hoyt, Mike via CnC-List mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> > wrote:

Just my opinion but I would not trust rope over wire.  It chafes and can be 
easily cut.

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com 
 ] On Behalf Of Jerome Tauber via CnC-List
Sent: Monday, May 13, 2019 7:04 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com  
Cc: Jerome Tauber
Subject: Re: Stus-List Source for replacement lifelines in Toronto? Now general 
lifeline information

 

I checked those regs and they now permit HMPE rope lifelines. 

“Lifeline Specifications

Lifelines of stranded stainless steel wire

Lifelines of either:

stranded stainless steel wire

HMPE

The minimum diameter is specified in table 8 below

Stainless steel lifelines shall be uncoated and used without close-fitting 
sleeving, however, temporary sleeving may be fitted provided it is regularly 
removed for inspection.

A lanyard of synthetic rope may be used to secure lifelines provided the gap it 
closes does not exceed 100 mm (4”). This lanyard shall be replaced annually

All components of the lifeline enclosure system shall have a breaking strength 
no less than the lifeline

When HMPE is used, it shall be protected from chafe and spliced in accordance 
with the manufacturer’s recommended procedure.”

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Re: Stus-List Source for replacement lifelines in Toronto? Now general lifeline information

[Chuck Gilchrest via CnC-List]

I’ll buy stainless wire lifelines the day the Spectra on my boat starts to rust.

Chuck Gilchrest 
S/V Half Magic
1983 35 Landfall 

Sent from my iPhone

> On May 14, 2019, at 9:22 AM, Josh Muckley via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> Mike, you're not exactly wrong about wire but in defense of UHMPE, it doesn't 
> chafe or cut as easy as most other cordage and certainly not to the degree of 
> ease as cotton or hemp cordage.  In fact, when splicing I'm always surprised 
> that I have to make sure that my knife is quite sharp.  I actually see the 
> "cutability" as a virtue since it could ease the retrieval of a MOB or 
> clearing fouled rigging.  It's also relatively quick and easy to replace 
> should you have to cut it. 
> 
> Josh Muckley
> S/V Sea Hawk 
> 1989 C 37+
> Solomons, MD
> 
> 
> 
>> On Tue, May 14, 2019, 8:55 AM Hoyt, Mike via CnC-List 
>>  wrote:
>> Just my opinion but I would not trust rope over wire.  It chafes and can be 
>> easily cut.
>> 
>>  
>> 
>> From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Jerome 
>> Tauber via CnC-List
>> Sent: Monday, May 13, 2019 7:04 PM
>> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
>> Cc: Jerome Tauber
>> Subject: Re: Stus-List Source for replacement lifelines in Toronto? Now 
>> general lifeline information
>> 
>>  
>> 
>> I checked those regs and they now permit HMPE rope lifelines. 
>> 
>> “Lifeline Specifications
>> 
>> Lifelines of stranded stainless steel wire
>> 
>> Lifelines of either:
>> 
>> stranded stainless steel wire
>> 
>> HMPE
>> 
>> The minimum diameter is specified in table 8 below
>> 
>> Stainless steel lifelines shall be uncoated and used without close-fitting 
>> sleeving, however, temporary sleeving may be fitted provided it is regularly 
>> removed for inspection.
>> 
>> A lanyard of synthetic rope may be used to secure lifelines provided the gap 
>> it closes does not exceed 100 mm (4”). This lanyard shall be replaced 
>> annually
>> 
>> All components of the lifeline enclosure system shall have a breaking 
>> strength no less than the lifeline
>> 
>> When HMPE is used, it shall be protected from chafe and spliced in 
>> accordance with the manufacturer’s recommended procedure.”
>> 
>> ___
>> 
>> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
>> every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use 
>> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>> 
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> 
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> every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use 
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
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Re: Stus-List Steering cable questions for Chuck

[Chuck Gilchrest via CnC-List]

There should always be sufficient tension in the steering cables that they are 
never “slack” enough to allow the adjusting bolts to be loose.
If the swaged Rod is so corroded that it can’t  be slid through the holes in 
the quadrant, or turned to adjust tension, simply cut them off and replace the 
chain/ cable assembly.  It’s time!  Once the cable is cut, you’ll be able to 
unscrew the rod using a vice grip or other such tool.
But I can’t stress this enough:  don’t take cheap shortcuts regarding steering 
system components.  By performing regular maintenance on cable tension, 
inspection and lubrication using Edson guidelines, you can avoid scenarios like 
Dennis is experiencing.  In terms of priority maintenance, I rank steering 
right behind flotation (seacocks and through hulls).
Chuck Gilchrest 
S/V Half Magic
1983 35 Landfall 
Padanaram, MA



> On May 10, 2019, at 4:53 PM, DMcMillan via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
> Maybe if the swaged threaded rod was not corroded in the hole, it is possible 
> that there could be some movement of the rod when it is not under tension 
> i.e. the wheel is turned in the opposite direction.   The movement in the 
> hole could possibly damage the threads making adjustment difficult?
>  
> BTW, what is a “take up eye”?  you mean an eye bolt?
>  
> Dennis M
>  
> From: CnC-List  On Behalf Of Dennis C. via 
> CnC-List
> Sent: May 10, 2019 11:25 AM
> To: CnClist 
> Cc: Dennis C. 
> Subject: Re: Stus-List Steering cable questions for Chuck
>  
> Makes sense.  Thanks.
>  
> Dennis C.
>  
> On Fri, May 10, 2019 at 1:09 PM Chuck Gilchrest via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> I neglected to answer the second question:
> These days, take up eyes are simply easier to install in the system.  If you 
> have swaged threaded rod on the end of the cables, it can be a bear to thread 
> down through the idler and turning sheaves around and through  the holes on a 
> quadrant or radial, whereas using take up eyes makes for a much easier 
> threading of the steering cables through the sheaves and around the quadrant. 
>  The take up eyes can be pre-installed on the radial or quadrant and much of 
> the initial tension can be pre-tensioned with rope clamps, adjusting the 
> final length of the steering cable.
> Also, a swaged rod can be subject to crevice corrosion where the cable end is 
> installed into the threaded rod fitting, similar to a lifeline.  Hard to see 
> the corrosion when it is covered.
> Chuck Gilchrest
> S/V Half Magic
> 1983 35 Landfall
> Padanaram, MA
>  
> From: CnC-List  On Behalf Of Dennis C. via 
> CnC-List
> Sent: Friday, May 10, 2019 1:48 PM
> To: CnClist 
> Cc: Dennis C. 
> Subject: Stus-List Steering cable questions for Chuck
>  
> Chuck,
>  
> Why does Edson not want a nut opposite the tensioning and lock nuts.  Just 
> because it is redundant and serves no purpose?
>  
> Is a tensioning stud bad?  Is an adjusting eye better?
>  
> Dennis C.
> Touche' 35-1 #83
> Mandeville, LA
>  
> On Fri, May 10, 2019 at 10:17 AM Chuck Gilchrest via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> Per Edson’s instructions, both nuts go on the “bitter end” of the cable.  One 
> is to tension the cable, the other is a locking nut to prevent the other nut 
> from coming loose.
> FWIW, if you’re dealing with a swaged threaded rod on the end of the cable 
> and chain, you’re using a 38 year old steering component that is recommended 
> to be changed every 10 years.  So cut the cable, remove the threaded rod from 
> the radial drive, get a new chain/cable set up with take up eyes and rope 
> clamps and be happy the old one never failed!
> Chuck Gilchrest 
> 1983 Landfall 35
>  
>  
>  
> ___
> 
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
> every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use 
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> 
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> 
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> every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use 
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Re: Stus-List Steering cable questions for Chuck

[Chuck Gilchrest via CnC-List]

I neglected to answer the second question:

These days, take up eyes are simply easier to install in the system.  If you 
have swaged threaded rod on the end of the cables, it can be a bear to thread 
down through the idler and turning sheaves around and through  the holes on a 
quadrant or radial, whereas using take up eyes makes for a much easier 
threading of the steering cables through the sheaves and around the quadrant.  
The take up eyes can be pre-installed on the radial or quadrant and much of the 
initial tension can be pre-tensioned with rope clamps, adjusting the final 
length of the steering cable.

Also, a swaged rod can be subject to crevice corrosion where the cable end is 
installed into the threaded rod fitting, similar to a lifeline.  Hard to see 
the corrosion when it is covered. 

Chuck Gilchrest

S/V Half Magic

1983 35 Landfall

Padanaram, MA

 

From: CnC-List  On Behalf Of Dennis C. via 
CnC-List
Sent: Friday, May 10, 2019 1:48 PM
To: CnClist 
Cc: Dennis C. 
Subject: Stus-List Steering cable questions for Chuck

 

Chuck,

 

Why does Edson not want a nut opposite the tensioning and lock nuts.  Just 
because it is redundant and serves no purpose?

 

Is a tensioning stud bad?  Is an adjusting eye better?

 

Dennis C.

Touche' 35-1 #83

Mandeville, LA

 

On Fri, May 10, 2019 at 10:17 AM Chuck Gilchrest via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> > wrote:

Per Edson’s instructions, both nuts go on the “bitter end” of the cable.  One 
is to tension the cable, the other is a locking nut to prevent the other nut 
from coming loose.

FWIW, if you’re dealing with a swaged threaded rod on the end of the cable and 
chain, you’re using a 38 year old steering component that is recommended to be 
changed every 10 years.  So cut the cable, remove the threaded rod from the 
radial drive, get a new chain/cable set up with take up eyes and rope clamps 
and be happy the old one never failed!
Chuck Gilchrest 

1983 Landfall 35

 

 

 

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Re: Stus-List Steering cable questions for Chuck

[Chuck Gilchrest via CnC-List]

Dennis,

As long as you have two nuts on the tensioning side, you’re good to go.

Putting a nut on the “cable” side of the threaded take up eye or swaged rod  
simply prevents you from adding tension when you adjust the cable with the 
adjusting nut.  If your lock nut is outboard of the tensioning nut where it is 
supposed to be, it prevents the tension nut (and associated cable assembly) 
from getting loose until you loosen the lock nut.  Why would you want a nut 
placed on the side of the quadrant or radial that would keep the cable from 
getting tighter?  When a cable is under tension, it naturally wants to get 
looser, and the lock nut outboard of the tensioning nut prevents that.

Chuck Gilchrest

S/V Half Magic

 

 

From: CnC-List  On Behalf Of Dennis C. via 
CnC-List
Sent: Friday, May 10, 2019 1:48 PM
To: CnClist 
Cc: Dennis C. 
Subject: Stus-List Steering cable questions for Chuck

 

Chuck,

 

Why does Edson not want a nut opposite the tensioning and lock nuts.  Just 
because it is redundant and serves no purpose?

 

Is a tensioning stud bad?  Is an adjusting eye better?

 

Dennis C.

Touche' 35-1 #83

Mandeville, LA

 

On Fri, May 10, 2019 at 10:17 AM Chuck Gilchrest via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> > wrote:

Per Edson’s instructions, both nuts go on the “bitter end” of the cable.  One 
is to tension the cable, the other is a locking nut to prevent the other nut 
from coming loose.

FWIW, if you’re dealing with a swaged threaded rod on the end of the cable and 
chain, you’re using a 38 year old steering component that is recommended to be 
changed every 10 years.  So cut the cable, remove the threaded rod from the 
radial drive, get a new chain/cable set up with take up eyes and rope clamps 
and be happy the old one never failed!
Chuck Gilchrest 

1983 Landfall 35

 

 

 

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Re: Stus-List C 34 - steering cable

[Chuck Gilchrest via CnC-List]

Per Edson’s instructions, both nuts go on the “bitter end” of the cable.  One 
is to tension the cable, the other is a locking nut to prevent the other nut 
from coming loose.
FWIW, if you’re dealing with a swaged threaded rod on the end of the cable and 
chain, you’re using a 38 year old steering component that is recommended to be 
changed every 10 years.  So cut the cable, remove the threaded rod from the 
radial drive, get a new chain/cable set up with take up eyes and rope clamps 
and be happy the old one never failed!
Chuck Gilchrest 
1983 Landfall 35

Sent from my iPhone

> On May 10, 2019, at 10:05 AM, DMcMillan via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
> There is not enough slack in the cable to pull it off the quadrant – if I 
> could do this there would be enough slack to pull the end of the chain up 
> through the binnacle for inspection, but now the only way to get more slack 
> is to take a pulley off, something I am reluctant to do.
>  
> We tried tightening the nut to break the stud out, but no luck (but it has 
> not been treated with penetrating oil yet).There is no nut on the cable 
> side of the stud, but I think it is a good idea to do this when re-assembling.
>  
> Dennis
> Andante
> C 34 (1981)
> Victoria, BC
>  
> From: CnC-List  On Behalf Of Dennis C. via 
> CnC-List
> Sent: May 10, 2019 6:39 AM
> To: CnClist 
> Cc: Dennis C. 
> Subject: Re: Stus-List C 34 - steering cable
>  
> How much slack is in the cable?  Can you put the nut back on and try to 
> tighten it to pull the stud through the hole a bit and break it loose?
>  
> Also, there should be a nut on the cable side of the stud.  That is, on each 
> side of the hole in the quadrant.  See:
>  
> https://drive.google.com/open?id=1E8roNobdRFd7kJQj40cMM5MNYy7F6Q9e
>  
> Were that the case, you could have used that nut to possibly pull the stud 
> out.
>  
> Dennis C.
> Touche' 35-1 #83
> Mandeville, LA
>  
> On Thu, May 9, 2019 at 9:56 AM DMcMillan via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> We have a 1981 C and want to do an inspection of the chain within the 
> binnacle that connects to the steering cable.  To do this the cable must be 
> disconnected from the quadrant in order to pull the chain up through the 
> binnacle once the compass is removed. Once out I intend to inspect the links 
> for cracks with a magnifying glass.  The wire cable itself has a screw 
> fitting swaged on to it and the screw fitting passes through a hole in the 
> quadrant and is secured with two nuts.  With the nuts backed off the screw 
> fitting would not budge, and it appears the stainless screw is corroded in 
> the hole in the aluminum (?) quadrant.Does anyone have suggestions on 
> getting the screw fitting out of the hole without damaging the fitting or the 
> quadrant.  Access is quite limited.   See photos at:
> https://photos.app.goo.gl/xWoCWrkJxzRaDLaF6
>  
> Thanks
>  
> Dennis
> Andante
> C 34
> Victoria, BC
>  
>  
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> 
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> every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use 
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Re: Stus-List Genoa sheets for Landfall 38

[Chuck Gilchrest via CnC-List]

Shawn,

While some sailors prefer to “luggage tag” a single sheet to the clew of their 
jib thus saving the excess bulk of a pair of bowlines that may hang up on a 
baby stay or other deck mounted obstructions, I’ve gone back to using two 
separate jib sheets on the 135% jib of our Landfall 35.  To secure the sheets 
to the sail, I’ve spliced a small eye on the end of the sheet and use a ¼”x3” 
spectra soft shackle at the clew attachment point.  This way I avoid the bulk 
of a large heavy knot that might whack somebody on the foredeck or hang up 
while tacking, but it makes it easy to remove a sheet that could be accidently 
overwrapped on the winch, something you can’t do when using a single sheet with 
a loop at the clew.

 

I’m encouraged by your desire to downsize your jib sheets.  Many sailors 
purchasing new sheets buy enormously oversized line because they feel it 
provides better “hand” and makes the rope easier to grip under load.  I could 
see that mindset if you were sailing an Etchells or some other mid size racer 
that doesn’t have winches, but how often does a C owner trim their jib using 
arm strength alone, requiring a significant grip on the line?  Most folks will 
simply wind the line onto the winch and pull (or grind) using the mechanical 
advantage of the winches.  Big heavy sheets can weigh down the clew and foot of 
the jib in light air conditions and are harder to get sufficient wraps around 
the winch if you really need to keep the rope from slipping in a hard blow.  
Just last week I had a friend ask me to source some ¾” line for genoa sheets on 
a 44’ Sloop (not a C).  That seems rather excessive in my mind and the size 
of the line certainly isn’t necessary from a load standpoint.  But in his mind, 
bigger was better and was willing to spend a whole lot of money to get a sheet 
that looked and felt massive.  I don’t even think the J-Class boats use jib 
sheets that big…

Chuck Gilchrest

S/V Half Magic

1983 Landfall 35

Padanaram, MA

 

From: CnC-List  On Behalf Of Shawn Wright via 
CnC-List
Sent: Monday, April 22, 2019 7:08 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Shawn Wright 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Genoa sheets for Landfall 38

 

Regarding genoa/jib sheets: is it acceptable to use one double length sheet, 
marked in the middle, then looped through the clew? I will need to replace the 
sheets on our new 35 as they are too large, and the knots are also bulky as 
result. It seemed to me that a single sheet looped through would solve this. 
Are there any downsides to doing this?

 

On Mon, Apr 22, 2019 at 3:16 PM Dreuge via CnC-List mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> > wrote:

 

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Re: Stus-List Maximum/Optimum Rudder Travel

[Chuck Gilchrest via CnC-List]

Dennis,
To echo Rob’s concerns regarding the creation of a robust rudder stop, if the 
previous iteration utilized two bolts inserted in the steering chain, I would 
take a thorough inspection of the pedestal sprocket.  Steel bolts coming into 
contact with bronze sprocket teeth under load or at high speed won’t be kind to 
the teeth.  Sprocket and chain replacement might be advised (unless if your 
pedestal is made by Morch or Cinkel in which case you’re out of luck finding a 
new sprocket).
Adding some heavy rubber bumpers or cushioning shock absorbers on your new 
rudder stop plate might allow it to last longer and be kinder to the new 
bulkhead as well.  A cut up piece of old exhaust hose might do the trick.
Cheers and best of luck,
Chuck Gilchrest 
S/V Half Magic 
1983 35 LF
Padanaram, MA

Sent from my iPhone

> On Apr 23, 2019, at 8:31 AM, John Irvin via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
> That’s one of the great features of these designs.
> 
> Sent from my iPhone
> 
> On Apr 23, 2019, at 8:22 AM, Bruce Whitmore via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
>> And that 36 degrees, in both of my C (a 27 MKII and my current 37/40+) 
>> have been enough to turn the boat in its own boat length going down a 
>> fairway between docks.  
>> 
>> More than enough maneuverability in my opinion... :)
>> 
>> Thanks Rob!
>> 
>> Bruce Whitmore
>> 
>> (847) 404-5092 (mobile)
>> bwhitm...@sbcglobal.net
>> 
>> 
>> 
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>> 
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>> every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use 
>> PayPal to send contribution --   
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Re: Stus-List Source for bronze

[Chuck Gilchrest via CnC-List]

Page 10 in Edson’s Traditional Steering catalog.
https://edsonmarine.com/content/Edson_T1.pdf

Assorted sizes available.
Chuck Gilchrest 
S/V Half Magic
35 Landfall
Padanaram MA 

Sent from my iPhone

> On Apr 20, 2019, at 11:28 AM, Matthew L. Wolford via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> I suppose I could, now that you mention it.
>  
> You’re about as clever as whoever engineered the contraption in the first 
> place.
>  
> From: Dennis C. via CnC-List
> Sent: Saturday, April 20, 2019 10:37 AM
> To: CnClist
> Cc: Dennis C.
> Subject: Re: Stus-List Source for bronze
>  
> Can you simply turn the existing bronze ring over?
>  
> Dennis C.
>  
>> On Sat, Apr 20, 2019 at 9:11 AM Matthew L. Wolford via CnC-List 
>>  wrote:
>> Listers:
>>  
>> I am in need of a source for a small piece of bronze, which will likely 
>> need to be fabricated.  On my 42, the top of the rudderpost exits 
>> through the coaming just aft of the cockpit.  There is a simple but 
>> ingenious method of securing it.  There are two, small stainless steel 
>> wheels bolted to the rudder post which roll on the surface when the rudder 
>> turns.  They sit on a bronze ring that looks like a large washer that fits 
>> around the rudder post and is screwed onto the deck.  The bronze ring serves 
>> as the surface for the two wheels to roll on.  This contraption is housed in 
>> a fiberglass cover that screws onto the top ofthe rudder post.  By 
>> removing the cover, you can use the post for emergency steering, which, 
>> unlike a lot of boats I’ve seen, is a reasonably convenient location for 
>> this.
>>  
>> Last year, unbeknownst to me (due to the fiberglass cover), a nut came 
>> off the bolt holding the wheels in place, and one of the wheels nearly came 
>> off.  Because the wheel was angled and not rolling flat, it started wearing 
>> a groove into the bronze ring.  I would like to replace the bronze ring, but 
>> cannot imagine this is an off-the-shelf item.  Does anyone know of a source 
>> for bronze for this purpose.  Without measuring, my guess is that I need a 
>> piece roughly 6” x 6” x 3/16” thick (or thereabouts).
>>  
>> ___
>> 
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>> every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use 
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> 
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Re: Stus-List Quadrant cable tension

[Chuck Gilchrest via CnC-List]

When I worked for Edson I gave the following advice relating to Cable tension:
Assuming the entire system to be adequately lubricated per Edson guidelines, 
allow for no more than 1” total cable deflection for each foot of unsupported 
wire.If the distance between the idler sheave to the contact point on the 
radial wheel or quadrant is 2’, adjust the cable for no more than 2” total 
cable deflection while grasping the wire between your fingers and moving it up 
and down.  
Chuck Gilchrest 
S/V Half Magic
1983 35 Landfall 
Padanaram,MA

Sent from my iPhone

> On Apr 19, 2019, at 6:27 AM, Ken Heaton via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
> From Edson (on the last page of this):  
> https://edsonmarine.com/content/EB381SteeringGuide.pdf
> 
> "STEERING WIRE TENSION  To check for proper wire tension, lock the wheel in 
> position by using the pedestal brake, or by tying off the wheel. Cable 
> tension is best when you cannot move the quadrant or drive wheel by hand with 
> the wheel locked in place. Over tightening will greatly reduce the 
> sensitivity of the system."
> 
> Ken H.
> 
>> On Fri, 19 Apr 2019 at 01:56, Allan Hester via CnC-List 
>>  wrote:
>> 
>> 
>> CNC listers,
>> 
>> I am installing a Raymarine under deck autopilot for my 1989 C 35 MK3.
>> 
>> The process required removing the quadrant and steering cables. 
>> 
>> Does anybody know how tight the quadrant cables should be? Is there a rule 
>> of thumb for tension or a specific guide?
>> 
>> Thank you.
>> 
>> AL H.
>> Pacific Ranger
>> C 35 Mk 3
>> Vancouver, BC.
>> ___
>> 
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>> every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use 
>> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>> 
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> 
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> every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use 
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Re: Stus-List Merriman snatch block question

[Chuck Gilchrest via CnC-List]

Hi Matt,

After re-reading my reply to your snatch block question, I apologize for the 
tone of my email.  It was uncalled for and over the top.  Having spent a fair 
bit of time on a professional level attending to service questions in a wide 
range of recreational sports,  I guess I tend to have a knee jerk reaction when 
I suspect that someone is compromising safety in the name of frugality.  
Clearly this was not the case regarding your simple question of sourcing a 
replacement part for your blocks.

Again, I apologize for the “lecture” and I’ll try to conduct future comments in 
a more professional and helpful manner.

Sincerely,

Chuck Gilchrest

S/V Half Magic

1983 35 Landfall

Pandanaram, MA

 


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Re: Stus-List Merriman snatch block question

[Chuck Gilchrest via CnC-List]

“Fixing” bent snatch blocks???  Really??  Bending it back into shape?  Finding 
replacement pins for 30 year old blocks that are twisted and falling apart?  
You need to consider metal fatigue and once stainless steel is bent without 
applying heat, it is severely compromised.

I’m as cheap as the next sailor (well maybe not the Canadian ones…) but once a 
piece of critical hardware gives up and gets bent out of shape, it finds its 
way into the scrap heap and gets replaced because I don’t depend on damaged 
hardware to get me home safely..  Maybe because I love my children and my wife 
and want to see them again.   Just for the record, if the snatch block lets go 
under load and kills someone or severely injures a crew member, I hope you have 
enough liability insurance because it will not be something you can pin on a 
company that has been out of business since 1989.

If you have a single piece of electronic gadgetry or cookware on your boat that 
costs more than a snatch block and have limited financial resources, I suggest 
you sell them and buy the new hardware that you need.  And yes, I am well aware 
that new snatch blocks are expensive..it’s for good reason!

Chuck Gilchrest

S/V Half Magic

1983 35 Landfall

Padanaram, MA

From: CnC-List  On Behalf Of Bill Coleman via 
CnC-List
Sent: Tuesday, April 9, 2019 2:02 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Bill Coleman 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Merriman snatch block question

 

Lay it under my keel, I will take a look at it. I can probably beat it back 
into shape. Might cost you a beer or two, tho.

I used to repair Merle’s Merrimans, and now of course I own them.

 

Bill Coleman

C 39 Erie, PA

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Matthew L. 
Wolford via CnC-List
Sent: Tuesday, April 09, 2019 1:15 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com  
Cc: Matthew L. Wolford
Subject: Stus-List Merriman snatch block question

 

Listers:

 

I have an old Merriman snatch block in need of repair.  It was under load 
last season and not properly closed, which caused it to open and bend the 
stainless straps (on the sides) and the pin holding it together.  I believe I 
can bend the stainless straps back more or less into alignment.  However, the 
pin is bent and in need of replacement.  The pin used by Merriman for this 
block is stainless, 2 1/2 inches long (I’m guessing 5/16 diameter) with a head 
on one end and internal threads on the other.  It is held together by a machine 
screw that screws into the threaded end.  I suppose I could use a stainless 
bolt, but that would not be very elegant.  Any ideas?  

 

 


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Re: Stus-List 34 genoa sheets

[Chuck Gilchrest via CnC-List]

John,
Strength wise, you could even get by using 3/8”, but it may not grip in self 
tailing winches and would seem small and hard to grip.  7/16” is what I use on 
my 35 Landfall.  I avoid ropes with high modulus cores like Dyneema, Spectra, 
and Vectran as they tend to make the rope stiffer and will hold a “set” when 
wrapped around a winch.
FYI, R in New Bedford,MA is holding their Ropefest sale on April 27.  20% and 
more off everything.  They stock New England, Novabraid, Marlow and Samson plus 
a full service rigging shop.  They also have great deals on surplus ropes and 
spool ends.
Chuck Gilchrest 

Sent from my iPhone

> On Apr 5, 2019, at 7:18 AM, Rod Stright via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
> Check out Cajun ropes awesome prices and good rope 
> https://www.facebook.com/CajunRopes/?ref=br_rs
>  
> Rod
>  
> From: CnC-List  On Behalf Of John and Maryann 
> Read via CnC-List
> Sent: April-05-19 8:16 AM
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> Cc: John and Maryann Read 
> Subject: Stus-List 34 genoa sheets
>  
> Am replacing genoa sheets but uncertain of correct size.   Currently use ½ 
> inch but seem a bit oversize.  Plan to get Sta set or similar with soft 
> shackle.  What size do other 34 / 33 owners use?
>  
>  
> John and Maryann
> Legacy III
> 1982 C 34
> Noank, CT
>  
>  
> 
>   Virus-free. www.avast.com
> ___
> 
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> every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use 
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Re: Stus-List Logowear sighting...

[Chuck Gilchrest via CnC-List]

I met my wife while skiing at Copper Mountain.  Great place!  Head back to 
Summit County in the summer and try your hand sailing Lake Dillon.  
Breathtaking views from the lake, but get used to shifty if not swirling winds 
at 9000’ above sea level.  You can get a beat, reach, run, and another beat all 
on the same leg of a race.  Never boring.

Chuck Gilchrest

S/V Half Magic

1983 35 Landfall

Padanaram, MA

 

From: CnC-List  On Behalf Of Chuck Saur via 
CnC-List
Sent: Monday, April 1, 2019 12:31 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Chuck Saur 
Subject: Stus-List Logowear sighting...

 

We are skiing at Copper Mountain in Colorado, and while in our condo, the 
Saturday local TV news came on.  The sound was down, but I glanced up to notice 
a fellow being interviewed...wait for it...wearing a familiar light-colored 
shirt with a C Yachts logo!  I wondered at that point if I were the only 
person in the area to note that detail?

 

It was our list's own Randy Stafford!  My compliments to you for your choice of 
on-camera-wear, Randy!

 

 

Chuck Saur

Daydream

C 37+

Hessel, MI

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Re: Stus-List Help

[Chuck Gilchrest via CnC-List]

Bruce,

Trying to assess a “replacement” figure on your 36 is purely market and 
condition driven.  You can find C 36s in sailable condition on Yachtworld 
ranging in price from $15-60K depending on year, model, and how well they’re 
outfitted.   If your insurance company has yet to make a settlement to repair 
or replace, I would echo the other folks’ opinions that it would be much more 
reasonable to seek a replacement boat than to spend months of labor and a 
massive amount of cash to refurbish a boat that was submerged or full of water 
for an extended period of time.  For my money, I’d want to try to get enough 
from the insurance settlement to buy a boat like this Landfall 38 which would 
be an excellent choice for a liveaboard.  I am not associated with this listing 
but only using it as an example:

https://www.yachtworld.com/boats/1979/c-c-38-landfall-3247734/?refSource=enhanced
 listing

Best of luck!

Chuck Gilchrest

S/V Half Magic

1983 35 Landfall

Padanaram, MA

 

From: CnC-List  On Behalf Of Bruce Roland via 
CnC-List
Sent: Monday, April 1, 2019 10:34 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Bruce Roland 
Subject: Stus-List Help

 


I am interested in finding out just a ball park figure on a complete restore, 
my 36 ft C was damaged  by Hurricane Michael,  and washed to shore. It sat on 
government property for about 3 and half months full of water. 
I know it might be difficult to give a figure on this but could you just give 
me something to work with please. 

Or a replacement figure.  The actual boat has been destroyed, but I do have 
pictures. I just trying to get a replacement cost.

This was my home and now I'm left with nothing.

Thank you for your time.

Bruce Roland

 

Bruce Roland

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Re: Stus-List Mooring bouy new hollow style - and advice/experience?

[Chuck Gilchrest via CnC-List]

Dave,

The Defender sale goes live online at 2pm Wednesday and runs throughout the 
weekend.  The sale at the warehouse goes Thursday-Sunday.  And yes, I’m working 
in the line and cut goods area or out by dock lines and mooring pendants.  Hope 
to see as many C’ers as possible.  

Cheers,

Chuck Gilchrest  

S/V Half Magic

1983 35 Landfall

Padanaram, MA

 

 

From: CnC-List  On Behalf Of David Knecht via 
CnC-List
Sent: Thursday, March 21, 2019 5:38 PM
To: CnC CnC discussion list 
Cc: David Knecht 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Mooring bouy new hollow style - and advice/experience?

 

I thought it started Thursday???  Dave

 

PS- Will I see you there at the line area?

 

S/V Aries

1990 C 34+

New London, CT




 

On Mar 21, 2019, at 5:03 PM, Chuck Gilchrest via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> > wrote:

 

Defender Warehouse sale starts Wednesday.  Don’t buy it until then.

Chuck Gilchrest 

S/V Half Magic

Sent from my iPhone


On Mar 21, 2019, at 3:26 PM, Nate Flesness via CnC-List mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> > wrote:

I need to purchase a new mooring bouy for my 30-1. The old Taylor conical bouy 
had the lower metal rod fitting fail last Fall, The boat enjoyed a little 
freedom, but luckily no harm done.

 

My old style bouy seems off the market A new styleJim-Bouy  has a hollow core 
shaft to move the chain up through the bouy to the top, for more direct 
connection to the bow lines, see

https://www.defender.com/product3.jsp?name=jim-buoy-pendant-mooring-buoy-24inch 
<https://www.defender.com/product3.jsp?name=jim-buoy-pendant-mooring-buoy-24inch=-1|2276108|2276138|2276139=1637498>
 =-1|2276108|2276138|2276139=1637498

 

Anyone used one of these? Do I really need the $118 plate and ring too?  
https://www.defender.com/product.jsp?name=jim-buoy-mooring-system 
<https://www.defender.com/product.jsp?name=jim-buoy-mooring-system=-1|2276108|2276138|2276137=1358166>
 =-1|2276108|2276138|2276137=1358166?

 

Thanks for any advice or opinion

 

Nate

 

Sarah Jean

1980 30-1

Lake St, Croix Hudson WI

 

(and)

1994 Tartan 31

Cornucopia, WI

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Re: Stus-List Mooring bouy new hollow style - and advice/experience?

[Chuck Gilchrest via CnC-List]

Defender Warehouse sale starts Wednesday.  Don’t buy it until then.
Chuck Gilchrest 
S/V Half Magic

Sent from my iPhone

> On Mar 21, 2019, at 3:26 PM, Nate Flesness via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> I need to purchase a new mooring bouy for my 30-1. The old Taylor conical 
> bouy had the lower metal rod fitting fail last Fall, The boat enjoyed a 
> little freedom, but luckily no harm done.
> 
> My old style bouy seems off the market A new styleJim-Bouy  has a hollow core 
> shaft to move the chain up through the bouy to the top, for more direct 
> connection to the bow lines, see
> https://www.defender.com/product3.jsp?name=jim-buoy-pendant-mooring-buoy-24inch=-1|2276108|2276138|2276139=1637498
>  
> Anyone used one of these? Do I really need the $118 plate and ring too?  
> https://www.defender.com/product.jsp?name=jim-buoy-mooring-system=-1|2276108|2276138|2276137=1358166?
> 
> Thanks for any advice or opinion
> 
> Nate
> 
> Sarah Jean
> 1980 30-1
> Lake St, Croix Hudson WI
> 
> (and)
> 1994 Tartan 31
> Cornucopia, WI
> ___
> 
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> every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use 
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> 
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Re: Stus-List Downwind sailing- Whisker pole length and height

[Chuck Gilchrest via CnC-List]

David,

Not sure how much it actually changes sail performance, but even if you have an 
adjustable whisker pole, most PHRF handicappers will hit you with a penalty if 
the pole length is longer than the “J” for your boat.  When I had a C 25 mk 
1,  I had to put a black band on my adjustable whisker pole to prevent 
extending it beyond the set “legal” length.  In New England it is 3 seconds per 
mile penalty for every 10% greater than the “J”.   I think the idea is to get 
the sail to project out as far as possible when sailing close to DDW while 
still maintaining some flow over the sail.   At the same time always avoid 
sailing by the lee.

As far as the height of the pole, on a C 40 we used to race, when the wind 
speed was over 15kts the pole was set high, in light air, low pole worked best. 
 We would still try to keep the pole perpendicular to the mast as we could 
adjust pole height at the mast end while some boats the pole attachment is 
fixed height.  The net result of a high pole is twist at the leech.

Chuck Gilchrest

S/V Half Magic

1983 35 Landfall

Padanaram, MA

 

From: CnC-List  On Behalf Of David Knecht via 
CnC-List
Sent: Wednesday, March 20, 2019 12:42 PM
To: CnC CnC discussion list 
Cc: David Knecht 
Subject: Stus-List Downwind sailing- Whisker pole length and height

 

We race non-spinnaker class and a few years ago I got an extendable whisker 
pole for the genoa.  I am unsure about optimal settings for pole height and 
length.   I suspect it is sometimes suboptimal because I have noticed some 
boats able to carry the genoa poled out at much closer angles than I have 
achieved.  Presumably the optimal pole angle is near perpendicular to the 
apparent wind.  It seems that extending the pole flattens the sail to some 
extent but I suspect it is more complicated than that.  Height I have no idea.  
Any general rules of thumb?

 

 Related to this, the VMG chart I have from C  has optimal VMG downwind 
apparent angle of about 140-145° true.  Are those numbers +spinnaker, 
-spinnaker standard or -spinnaker wing on wing with whisker pole?  Thanks- Dave

   

S/V Aries

1990 C 34+

New London, CT




 

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Re: Stus-List CnC-List Digest, Vol 158, Issue 28

[Chuck Gilchrest via CnC-List]

Glenn,
The quadrant ( or radial drive wheel) and rudder post should have a precision 
interference fit which is made by having the bore of the quadrant machined 
.002-.003” undersized.  In this way, the clamping tolerance prevents the 
quadrant from slipping on the post.  Any key and keyway cut into the post and 
quadrant is designed as a failsafe to prevent slippage if there is an impact or 
if the clamping bolts somehow became loose.  If your quadrant is moving on the 
rudder post and is clamped tightly to the post, the quadrant is damaged and 
needs to be replaced.  You will need to provide a precise measurement of your 
post taken with a set of calipers or micrometer.  Measure the width of the 
rudder post keyway as well and source a key to match.
Never rely on a piece of key stock to prevent steering slippage between the 
post and quadrant.
Chuck Gilchrest 
S/V Half Magic
1983 35 Landfall 
Padanaram, MA

Sent from my iPhone

> On Mar 15, 2019, at 5:48 AM, Glenn Henderson via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> Regarding the questions on rudder quadrants, I had slack in the steering of 
> our C 41 (WeGo). I climbed into the mouse hole and barely got to the 
> adjustment nuts. I tightened a bit, checked it, tightened, checked it... it 
> didn't improve the situation. What created almost all of the slack was the 
> condition that the keyway was not a square section but slightly less on one 
> side. It appeared to be square but was just enough less to allow the wheel to 
> rotate on the shaft a considerable amount if the keyway was installed with 
> the narrow side in the cut. I hope this saves someone a trip through the 
> mousehole. 
> 
> Pura Vida,
> 
> Glenn and Lindsey Henderson
> C 41- WeGo
> 
> . 
> 
>> On Thu, Mar 14, 2019 at 8:05 PM  wrote:
>> Send CnC-List mailing list submissions to
>> cnc-list@cnc-list.com
>> 
>> To subscribe or unsubscribe via the World Wide Web, visit
>> http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
>> or, via email, send a message with subject or body 'help' to
>> cnc-list-requ...@cnc-list.com
>> 
>> You can reach the person managing the list at
>> cnc-list-ow...@cnc-list.com
>> 
>> When replying, please edit your Subject line so it is more specific
>> than "Re: Contents of CnC-List digest..."
>> Today's Topics:
>> 
>>1. Re:  35-1 rudder quadrant question (Joe Della Barba)
>>2.  Strange Weather, Eh? (Randy Stafford)
>>3.  best price for life raft re-certification (Dan)
>>4. Re:  best price for life raft re-certification (David)
>>5. Re:  Strange Weather, Eh? (Marek Dziedzic)
>>6. Re:  Strange Weather, Eh? (Dennis C.)
>>7. Re:  Strange Weather, Eh? (Andrew Burton)
>>8. Re:  Strange Weather, Eh? (Wade Glew)
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> -- Forwarded message --
>> From: Joe Della Barba 
>> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
>> Cc: 
>> Bcc: 
>> Date: Thu, 14 Mar 2019 14:14:31 -0400
>> Subject: Re: Stus-List 35-1 rudder quadrant question
>> Here you go:
>> 
>> http://www.dellabarba.com/sailing/rudder/
>> 
>> Joe
>> 
>> Coquina
>> 
>> C 35 MK I
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> -- Forwarded message --
>> From: Randy Stafford 
>> To: cnc-list 
>> Cc: 
>> Bcc: 
>> Date: Thu, 14 Mar 2019 12:51:48 -0600
>> Subject: Stus-List Strange Weather, Eh?
>> Yesterday in eastern Colorado we had a bomb cyclone, over land, at about 38 
>> degrees north latitude.  All-time records were set for lowest atmospheric 
>> pressure ever recorded in several locations.  The center of the low was at 
>> about 37.5 degrees north latitude, 102 degrees west longitude, at Manter, 
>> Kansas just east of the Colorado border.  Category 2 hurricane-strength 
>> winds were recorded in northeast Colorado while snow was falling, creating a 
>> snowicane.  The system consisted of a cold air mass moving southeast from 
>> Canada, swirling with moist warm air moving up from the Gulf of Mexico.  Of 
>> course that created nasty blizzard conditions in the northwest quadrant of 
>> the cyclone over the Colorado plains including the Denver metropolitan area. 
>>  All ground and air travel in eastern Colorado was shut down and is just 
>> recovering today.  This was a rare meteorological event; I’ve never seen 
>> anything like it in my lifetime here.
>> 
>> I’ve uploaded a screenshot of http://hint.fm/wind/ taken at about 11:00 MDT 
>> last night to 
>> https://drive.google.com/open?id=1biBx_8VUDGuU_GtEgmYIr1nWGhIDFGGq which 
>> clearly shows the counter-clockwise rotation in the national wind pattern.  
>> This article 
>> https://weather.com/safety/winter/news/2019-03-13-bomb-cyclone-winter-storm-ulmer
>>  describes the details of the bomb cyclone.
>> 
>> Time to go remove snow from by boat again.  I’m so done with this winter 
>> already.  Good thing I’m doing a BVI charter in two weeks :)
>> 
>> Cheers,
>> Randy Stafford
>> S/V Grenadine
>> C 30-1 #7
>> Ken Caryl, CO
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> -- Forwarded message --
>> From: Dan 
>> To: 

Re: Stus-List Stern rail for a 41

[Chuck Gilchrest via CnC-List]

www.topsinquality.com
They built many of the stainless rails, ladders and other bits on our boats.
Located in Michigan 
Chuck Gilchrest 

Sent from my iPhone

> On Mar 9, 2019, at 5:30 PM, Chuck Borge via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
> Hello all,
> 
> Nearly 2 weeks after her tumble, I'm trying to get our 41 back together and 
> looking to source some parts.
> Thus far it seems like we have more composite and gelcoat repair than broken 
> parts. As long as things work out with insurance and logistics, we hope to 
> make a full recovery.
> Since all my stanchions and most bases were damaged, I will be replacing all 
> of them along with the lifelines.  I found that South Shore Yacht in Ontario 
> may have all that I need there. The Bow rail suffered a slight bend, but 
> fixable.  The stern rail, on the other hand... looks like it will need a lot 
> of work.  It might be more economical to find a decent used one.  Here's 
> where I need some help.
> Any ideas?  Also, would anyone know if we would be close in dimension to any 
> other design (even a non-C)?  Maybe I can swap in something close.
> 
> Thanks in advance,
> Chuck
> 
> Chuck Borge
> C 41 Tenacious
> 
> ___
> 
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
> every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use 
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> 
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Re: Stus-List Rib for Sale? And dock line washing

[Chuck Gilchrest via CnC-List]

For polyester or nylon double braids: Mild laundry soap like Ivory Liquid.  
Avoid bleaches and whiteners.  Your rope will be happier if you wash with a 
firm scrub brush rather than putting it in the washing machine.  That will also 
allow you to get a good visual inspection of the entire rope.  Hang dry in a 
heated area (not the clothes dryer).  Try to keep dry to avoid winter freezing 
as both polyester and nylon absorb water.  Check for pulled and frayed cover 
yarns, flat or lumpy sections and with the exception of the area adjacent to 
splices, the ropes should have uniform diameter.
Check rope to wire Halyards for frayed strands of wire called “meathooks”.  If 
you run your hand over one, you’ll know why..
Chuck Gilchrest 
S/V Half Magic
1983 35 Landfall 
Padanaram MA


Sent from my iPhone

> On Mar 1, 2019, at 4:25 PM, Ronald B. Frerker via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> Not much fat marbling through the meat.  Looks like canner & cutter!
> 
> On a boat question, I'd like to wash my dock lines and maybe some halyard 
> ends to get rid of the algae.  What soap do folks suggest?
> Ron
> Wild Cheri
> C 30-1
> STL
> 
> ___
> 
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> every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use 
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> 
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Re: Stus-List C 44 Harken rudder bearings!

[Chuck Gilchrest via CnC-List]

Steve,

Harken has been out of the rudder bearing business for nearly 15 years and no 
longer provide service for those items.  Edson jumped in with replacement 
Harken bearings for a while, but they too got out of the bearing business.  I’d 
say the best bet would be to determine the Harken stock number of the upper and 
lower bearings (possibly in the boat service manual) and then contact PYI in 
Washington State about replacement bearings from Jefa.   They currently supply 
all the J-Boats with roller rudder bearings.  Note that the bearing generally 
need to be replaced in pairs (upper and lower)  as that’s really the only way 
to insure proper bearing alignment.  

If you can deflect the tip of the rudder more than 1 inch, either side to side, 
or front and back, there’s likely sufficient wear to the bearing races that 
would require replacement.

You could also use a plain bearing set, from a company such as Tides Marine, 
but it would need to fit the ID/OD/ and height to be effective.  Does your boat 
have a stainless steel or composite rudder post?

 

Chuck Gilchrest

S/V Half Magic

1983 Landfall 35

Padanaram, MA 

 

From: CnC-List  On Behalf Of Steve Martin via 
CnC-List
Sent: Tuesday, February 19, 2019 12:21 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Steve Martin 
Subject: Stus-List C 44 Harken rudder bearings!

 

Hi again, I'm wondering if anyone can give me the name of someone in the 
Saugeen Shores, lake huron, On. area that can inspect my rudder bearings for 
advice... I spoke with Don Casey and his advice was to have someone with 
experience/knowledge on the C's with harken bearings actually look at it as 
there can be a few different things wrong and some are less expensive fixes 
than others... 

So, if anyone has the name of someone that could help I'd greatly appreciate it.

Thanks

Steve

Sent from Yahoo Mail on Android 
 

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Re: Stus-List [EXTERNAL] Re: AC75 boats

[Chuck Gilchrest via CnC-List]

Joe,

Having seen J Class boats, 12meter boats, IAC class, non-foiling and foiling AC 
catamarans race, I can attest to the excitement that ALL of them present to 
spectators when watching in person.  I don’t think it truly matters if you 
thought you could put yourself on board as a participant.  Regardless of the 
class yacht being used, I still view the America’s Cup as my all time favorite 
competition in sports.

 

   I grew up fantasizing about the 12 meters, followed the race coverage in the 
New York Times, and thought that the yacht Intrepid was the absolute pinnacle 
of yacht design.  Mind you, I was sailing Sunfish and FJ dinghies at the time.  
As the IAC boats came to pass, I still had the passion to follow the Cup races 
and took a special trip to San Diego right while all the yacht syndicates from 
Japan, Russia, Italy, New Zeeland, and Australia prepared for the regatta.  So 
cool!  When the Cup finally returned to the US, I took my whole family to San 
Francisco to watch the AC72 Cats fly up and down the bay at breathtaking 
speeds.  It was a thrill to see them in action and Yes, there were tacking 
duels and thrilling crosses.  I didn’t get down to Bermuda, but I did see the 
smaller AC Cats race in Newport, and thought the fleet racing was spectacular.  
So maybe I will never sail on a foiler, but after watching several new Cup 
races, my  17 year old son is absolutely psyched up to sail on one of the new 
UFO 10’ foiling cats that our yacht club bought this year for the youth sailing 
program.  He couldn’t be bothered by sailing my Laser, but can’t wait to get 
out on something that flies across the water!  In my mind, that’s what the 
inspiration of the Cup should be.   

Chuck Gilchrest

S/V Half Magic 

1983 35 Landfall

Padanaram, MA

 

From: CnC-List  On Behalf Of Della Barba, Joe 
via CnC-List
Sent: Tuesday, January 29, 2019 9:11 AM
To: 'cnc-list@cnc-list.com' 
Cc: Della Barba, Joe 
Subject: Re: Stus-List [EXTERNAL] Re: AC75 boats

 

Not really the same thing. Going from J-Class to 12s was needed because no one 
could afford to race a J anymore. Both of them sail pretty much like any other 
boat. If you know how to sail at all, you could sail either one more or less. 
If you raced at all, everything they did was like something you did every day. 
I don’t see any reason you couldn’t grab people from a C rendezvous and put 
them on a 12 and get one around a race course in a reasonable fashion. J class 
multi-ton sheet loads are perhaps another story, but still a tack is a tack and 
port still has to duck starboard.

Foiling cats running around at 30-50 knots are an entirely different universe. 
Racing them is a sport of some kind, but it does not resemble what we think of 
as sailboat racing whatsoever to me. Among all the other reasons, the 
traditional AC race was between boats that were very close in speed. Absolutely 
superb tactics and boat handling were required to keep ahead of the other boat. 
It was pretty rare for there to be enough speed difference for a good crew to 
lose to an average one.  6.9 knots losing to 7.1 knots is one thing, the 7.1 
knot boat is just one mistake away from losing. 45 vs. 55 knots, well you can 
still crash but it isn’t at all the same.

Joe

Coquina

 

From: CnC-List [  
mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Don Kern via CnC-List
Sent: Monday, January 28, 2019 4:43 PM
To: Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List
Cc: Don Kern
Subject: Re: Stus-List [EXTERNAL] Re: AC75 boats

 

I bet that is similar to what was said 1900's when the America Cup boats went 
to cross cut sails and the Marconi rig. Then again when they went from the 12 
meters to the IACC boats, never mind the foiling cats. "just saying" own 
Fireball for 39 years

Don Kern
Docent, Herreshoff Marine Museum
Fireball C Mk2
Bristol, RI 

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Re: Stus-List Touche' steering system disassembly - issues of concern discovered

[Chuck Gilchrest via CnC-List]

Dennis,

While reusing a damaged sprocket isn't the best idea, the one thing I'd do
to prevent the chain override in the future is to get the bolt and nut out
of the chain and install a legit steering stop at the "quadrant" (really a
radial drive).  As discussed by others, this would involve bolting an
upright heavy duty pin on the drive wheel that would hit against a wood
block on either side that was fiberglassed to a bulkhead.   If this sounds
like too much work, the other option is to install a tether style rudder
stop that mounts a loop or padeye to the drive wheel and anchors a high
strength tether (usually a UHMWPE 12 strand like Amsteel or similar) to a
point on the hull or  below deck, thus limiting travel.  In tether rudder
stops, a shock absorbing snubber is installed in the system to prevent the
tether from ripping apart a bulkhead or below deck fitting.

Edson's Steering System Planning Guide found on their website can show you
several ways to install rudder stops.  But relying on a bolt installed on
the steering chain to limit rudder travel has the potential of disabling the
entire steering system if pushed beyond the limit.  You may also consider
chain replacement if the chain has been run over broken sprocket teeth for
an extended period of time.

Finally, one of the main reasons Rob recommended changing out the chain/wire
assembly for most steering systems is typically not due to excessive wear of
the chain on the sprockets, but instead as a result of metal fatigue due to
crevice corrosion between the link plates of the chain.  Stainless does not
like to be deprived of oxygen and when it is, it performs very similarly to
mild steel (it rusts!) and the inside portion of a chain that you can't see
are the likely places for the corrosion to occur.  Bottom line, I never like
using the terms "steering" and "failure" in the same sentence and I try to
do everything possible to make sure my steering system is up to snuff on my
35 year old boat.

Best of luck!

Chuck Gilchrest

S/V Half Magic

1983 35 Landfall

Padanaram, MA

From: CnC-List  On Behalf Of Russ & Melody
via CnC-List
Sent: Thursday, January 24, 2019 8:56 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Russ & Melody 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Touche' steering system disassembly - issues of
concern discovered

 


Hi Dennis,

I will guess that the sprocket damage is as you surmise, chain stop bolt
riding past the limit. Notice chain link gouge in port side housing too when
it rode up on the sprocket. I expect it was an single event while backing
down and the person lost control of the wheel. There is enough momentum
there to put the wheel hard over in a second and cause the damage. 

Your intuition is "bang on", reassemble without removing the sprocket.
Trying to get that sprocket off the axle is flirting with disaster.
Reassemble exactly as before, as the damaged teeth are not in the normally
loaded area anyhow.

Cheers, Russ
ex - Sweet 35 mk-1




 

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