Re: Stus-List Rudder Shaft Material

[coltrek--- via CnC-List]

I think the only way it would be solid, is if the previous owner had it made up 
aftermarket , and for some reason they put a solid shaft in. But that would be 
just crazy.

Bill
On Friday, March 1, 2019 WILLIAM WALKER via CnC-List  
wrote:

Lake Michigan PHRF is asking whether my rudder shaft is solid stainless or 
hollow stainless.  Any one know with sufficient confidence?
1981 C & C 36
Bill Walker

Bill Walker 
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Re: Stus-List Hull windows

[coltrek--- via CnC-List]

I would have to agree with Chuck that it probably isn't a good fit for our 
boats,  but I do like them and they are kind of cool. It is slick to watch the 
green water flowing by.
Some caveats I can think of are compromising the structure of the hull, after 
all we are bending these boats like a bow and arrow. Another might be getting a 
good frame  for the lens. So that it would be strong enough and tight enough to 
withstand pounding waves .   Those ports are super heavy tempered glass, not 
acrylic,  put in with urethane that sticks like car windows. Which of course 
holds up and sticks lot better and longer than plexiglass. I am really 
surprised that a lot of oh, well us, don't replace those windows with tempered 
glass. There is a place called tempered glass of Prussia, in Pennsylvania that 
makes custom tempered glass.

Bill Coleman 
C 39
On Saturday, February 16, 2019 David Knecht via CnC-List 
 wrote:
I was looking through Sail magazine this morning and noticed several boats with 
windows in the topside hull.  It seems to be a growing trend.  My general sense 
of windows is that at some point in their lifetime, they will begin leaking so 
windows that will be underwater periodically would concern me.  Are these 
windows mounted differently from those in cabin tops to give confidence in 
their structure or is this a feature to avoid altogether?  Dave
S/V Aries1990 C 34+New London, CT

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Re: Stus-List Access

[coltrek--- via CnC-List]

Acid based cleaners. Or you can start with vinegar

Bill Coleman
C 39
On Wednesday, December 19, 2018 Elizabeth McDonald via CnC-List 
 wrote:
We joined this list a few years ago as Breakaweigh 1,  have since sold it and 
purchased a 35 mk3 , had a question re rust on fibreglass, any tips on removing 
it!

Liz McDonald
Rhumb Runner
Belfast Maine

Sent from my iPad
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Re: Stus-List Reaching Strut Pole replacement (now RRS 50.3)

[coltrek--- via CnC-List]

Never thought there was any question to that. If you're using a boat-hook, that 
is obviously illegal, but as far as you can reach, has always been legal, at 
least to my recollection. ?

Bill
On Saturday, December 8, 2018 Matthew L. Wolford via CnC-List 
 wrote:
One last thing on this topic: there are two reported cases indicating that a 
person leaning out holding a sheet is also not an outrigger. From: Matthew L. 
Wolford via CnC-List Sent: Saturday, December 08, 2018 12:09 PMTo: 
cnc-list@cnc-list.com Cc: Matthew L. Wolford Subject: Re: Stus-List Reaching 
Strut Pole replacement (now RRS 50.3) Michael: I assume that you sent your 
note below about there being no exception for reaching struts before I sent my 
note about Case 97.  I don’t know who decides cases arising under the Rules 
these days (I used to follow Cases and US Sailing Appeals), but it used to be 
the ISAF Racing Rules Committee (International Sailing Federation).  I believe 
the organization is now called World Sailing or something.  When a Case is 
decided, that establishes how a Rule is to be interpreted unless there is a 
contrary US Sailing prescription (on my side of the pond).  I assume that 
Canada has a similar prescription process. After your note about reaching 
struts yesterday, I searched RacingRulesOfSailing.org to see if any cases had 
been decided under Rule 50.3 about reaching struts being a prohibited 
outrigger.  I found Case 97, which interpreted the term “outrigger” as used in 
Rule 50.3 to not prohibit “jockey poles” because they redirect the guy, not a 
sheet or a sail.  A jockey pole is the same thing as a reaching strut, so I do 
not understand your follow-up comment below that you “have not found an 
exception.”  Case 97 clearly interprets the term “outrigger” as not applying to 
jockey poles (i.e., reaching struts).  Am I missing something? Matt Wolford 
   C 42 Custom From: Michael Brown via CnC-List Sent: Friday, December 07, 
2018 5:55 PMTo: cnc-list@cnc-list.com Cc: Michael Brown Subject: Re: Stus-List 
Reaching Strut Pole replacement The topic of outriggers came up a while back 
and I asked specifically about any disclaimersfor a reaching strut. I agree 
that it is a safety and rigging saving consideration as opposed tosomething 
that improves performance. I have not found an exception so it looks like it 
fallsunder the outrigger classification. Telling racers that they cannot lean 
over the lifelines and hold a jib out because outriggersare not permitted 
usually draws a blank stare also. Somewhat related are other clubs appointing a 
technical committee in observance ofRRS 60.4?  I am the PHRF handicapper at a 
Toronto club, the National Yacht Club, sotook on that role also. No protests so 
far, I felt that gentle education of the rules wasrequired first. We have about 
200 senior members ( skippers ) and got just over 90PHRF certificates issued 
this year. Experience levels range from the world championsin the Beneteau 
First 36.7 OD, first in IRC and LO300 to never have raced before. It makes 
deciding on what to enforce a bit difficult. Particularly when it doesn't make 
sense. Michael BrownWindburnC 30-1   
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Re: Stus-List Cleaning the engine.

[coltrek--- via CnC-List]

I use oil eater for stuff like that. It works better than anything I have ever 
used. But it is very alkaline, so you don't want to get it on your hands for 
very long. Rubber gloves would help

Bill Coleman 
 C 39, Erie PA
On Saturday, December 1, 2018 Bev Parslow via CnC-List  
wrote:
What is the safest thing to use to clean off accumulated years of oil etc. Some 
of the degreasers seem to be quite 
corrosive.___

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Re: Stus-List Dirty fuel?

[coltrek--- via CnC-List]

I got mine from Kracor, almost a perfect fit. 
You have to do research, or pay more for custom built -

Bill Coleman 
C 39
On Thursday, November 15, 2018 Richard Bush  wrote:
 Bill, I like your thoughts on the plastic tanks...are these something readily 
available in standard sizes or do they have to be individually 
fabricated?...either way, what/where would you recommend for sourcing one? 
Thanks 
 
Richard
 s/v Bushmark4: 1985 C 37; Ohio River, Mile 596;

Richard N. Bush 
2950 Breckenridge Lane, Suite Nine 
Louisville, Kentucky 40220-1462 
502-584-7255 
 
-Original Message-
From: coltrek--- via CnC-List 
To: cnc-list 
Cc: colt...@verizon.net 
Sent: Thu, Nov 15, 2018 11:39 am
Subject: Re: Stus-List Dirty fuel?

In my opinion, aluminum is one of the worst materials for a fuel tank. I have 
fabricated  stainless steel tanks many years ago, even though I told them that 
I didn't advise it, that they should get a plastic tank. A couple years ago my 
buddy had me (made me ) repair his aluminum tank against my suggestion, and 
within the year, it was leaking in an entirely different place. At which point 
he grudgingly replaced it with a plastic tank. I removed my own steel tank 
several years ago, that was not leaking, and replaced it with a plastic tank.
My unsolicited advice, is that if you have an opportunity to remove an aluminum 
tank, is to distance yourself as far as possible from it and don't look back.  
The labor in removing and reinstalling is worth much more than the cost of a 
new plastic tank.Bill Coleman
C 39 Erie PA
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Re: Stus-List Dirty fuel?

[coltrek--- via CnC-List]

In my opinion, aluminum is one of the worst materials for a fuel tank. I have 
fabricated  stainless steel tanks many years ago, even though I told them that 
I didn't advise it, that they should get a plastic tank. A couple years ago my 
buddy had me (made me ) repair his aluminum tank against my suggestion, and 
within the year, it was leaking in an entirely different place. At which point 
he grudgingly replaced it with a plastic tank. I removed my own steel tank 
several years ago, that was not leaking, and replaced it with a plastic tank.
My unsolicited advice, is that if you have an opportunity to remove an aluminum 
tank, is to distance yourself as far as possible from it and don't look back.  
The labor in removing and reinstalling is worth much more than the cost of a 
new plastic tank.

Bill Coleman
C 39 Erie PA
On Thursday, November 15, 2018 robert via CnC-List  
wrote:
 Dito herelast Fall removed my 33 year old aluminum tank because of a few 
pin hole leaks.had a new bottom welded on.
 
 Took approx 14 gals of diesel from the tank into 5 gal container(s)the 
last couple of gallons of the diesel looked more like a 'diluted mud'..very 
brown in colornot exactly sure what the bottom looked likethe machine 
shop that did the repair pressure washedthey told me that even after the 
pressure wash, they still wait a few days before doing the actual repair in 
order to wait and be sure all the fuel vapors are gone so as to not cause an 
explosion/fire when the welding begins.
 
 I wasn't having engine problems with the fuel at that point but from what I 
observed coming out from the tank, it was only a matter of time.  And remember, 
the fuel pickup line/filter draws from the bottom of the tank.
 
 Rob Abbott
 AZURA
 C 32- #277
 Halifax, N.S.
 
 Chapter two,  
 
This year my 29 year old OEM aluminum fuel tank developed pin holes and red 
liquid leaked onto my freshly painted bilge.  I bought a new 30 gallon plastic 
tank and new fuel lines and will install those over the coming winter.  This 
will give the boat enough range to run from Cape May to Block Island and should 
be good for another 30 plus years.
 
 
 
 ___

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Re: Stus-List Winter cover frame - Frame Maker Clamps

[coltrek--- via CnC-List]

I tried a different idea last year. I made 20 some brackets that just clipped 
onto the toe rail and each slot. A piece of tubing was welded straight up at 
that point. Then I bought several lengths of three quarter inch plastic 
conduit, put them over the upright tubing, straightforward up and then arched 
over the boat. In my case over the laid down mast. Worked pretty good. I would 
have to do a little more support for the snow that we had last December. 
Fortunately, I put it on just after that,  so it didn't crush the plastic 
tubing. 

Bill Coleman
C 39 Erie 

On Thursday, October 4, 2018 Bradley Lumgair via CnC-List 
 wrote:
Have been surfing for an affordable way to build a better winter frame, came 
across framemakerclamps.com. Anyone have any experience with these clamps? 
Frame is built with 3/4 inch EMT, adjustable angle cross and tee clamps, looks 
pretty good in the pictures.
Thoughts appreciated.
Brad
"Pulse" 1985 C 33/2
Lake Huron


Anything worth doing requires sails!~~~_/)~~~
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Re: Stus-List Refrigeration on my C 37+

[coltrek--- via CnC-List]

You can't put a price on cold beer in the summer. 
Edd, yes it should make a little noise.  Is it air cooled or water cooled? What 
make?

Bill Coleman 
C 39

On Monday, August 6, 2018 Matthew L. Wolford via CnC-List 
 wrote:

I have an old Adler Barbour Cold Machine.  It stopped working, and I debated 
replacement.  Instead, I called a technician who has developed a niche business 
fixing this type of thing.  He discovered that one of the wires leading to the 
circuit board (looks like a computer motherboard) which runs the compressor had 
worked itself loose, and that a spark had fried a fuse that I didn’t even know 
existed.  $150, and I’m back in business (at least until the next issue).  
Avoiding the hassle of installing a new system, even if only for a season or 
two, is worth $150 to me.  

 

From: Edd Schillay via CnC-List 

Sent: Monday, August 06, 2018 11:53 AM

To: Josh Muckley via CnC-List 

Cc: Edd Schillay 

Subject: Stus-List Refrigeration on my C 37+

 

Listers, 

 

After some work, I was able to get the wiring reconnected to the refrigerator 
on the Enterprise. The thermostat now lights up and I see different LEDs go on 
and off, though nobody, including the manufacturer, knows what the lights mean 
anymore. 

 

So here are some questions, cause I’m not feeling the cold-plate get cold after 
a while. . . 

 

1. Does it need a warm-up time to get going?

2. Should it be making noise (mine is silent both inside the chest and at the 
“guts” in the aft cabin)? I’m worried that the compressor motor is seized. 

3. Is it worth getting a marine refrigeration guy out there to check it out or 
am I really just better off ripping the whole thing out and starting fresh? 

 

 


All the best,

 

Edd

 

 

Edd M. Schillay

Starship Enterprise

C 37+ | Sail No: NCC-1701-B

City Island, NY 

Starship Enterprise's Captain's Log

 





 



 

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Re: Stus-List Fun Sailing Videos

[coltrek--- via CnC-List]

Where do you find all those energetic Young Bucks? And great cinematographers 
too, by the way! Nice job.! That would be a great race to do - on someone 
else's boat!

Bill Coleman 
C 39

On Wednesday, July 25, 2018 Andrew Burton via CnC-List  
wrote:

You may be entertained these YouTube videos one of my crewmembers made of the 
Bermuda Race with me on Masquerade, the boat that replaced my treasured C 40.

https://youtu.be/_hFRocpOT6I


Andy

Andrew Burton

61 W Narragansett

Newport, RI 

USA    02840


http://sites.google.com/site/andrewburtonyachtservices/

+401 965-5260


On Jul 25, 2018, at 16:05, James Bibb via CnC-List  
wrote:

Im with you!


Janes Bibb 

C 34-36r Darwin’s Folly

Sent from my iPhone


On Jul 25, 2018, at 12:03 PM, Tim Rutherford via CnC-List 
 wrote:

Am I the only one who sits up late on week nights sailing vicariously through 
others' YouTube  videos? (while usually knocking back a few cold ones)


My favorites are:

S/V Delos - explores cultures of the world aboard a 53' Amel Super Miramu 2000 
with 6 aboardAbandon Comfort - young couple casting off in pursuit of 
minimalismAnother Adventure - Key West minimalist sailor, series is in it's 
infancySailing LaVagabond - couple sailing the world aboard 45' new Otremer 
catamaran donated by the manufacturerSailing Zingaro - minimalist couple DIY 
fix-itMore daily...


Of course we sail every Thursday and at least every other weekend, so there's 
that. More cruising soon.


Anyone else?


--
Tim Rutherford

C 36 KCB Chamamé

DIYC Tampa, FL

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Re: Stus-List Marina North of NYC

[coltrek--- via CnC-List]

Thanks Chuck and Edd- 
shore power may be an issue,  looks like Mansion Marina may be the ticket 

Bill

On Wednesday, May 23, 2018 Chuck Gilchrest via CnC-List <cnc-list@cnc-list.com> 
wrote:

Nyack Boat Club has 6 guest moorings with launch service in season.  10’ draft. 
Reserve on Dockwa.

It’s north of NYC by several miles though..

Chuck Gilchrest

S/V Half Magic

1983 35 Landfall

Padanaram, MA

 

From: CnC-List <cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com> On Behalf Of coltrek--- via 
CnC-List
Sent: Wednesday, May 23, 2018 1:29 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: colt...@verizon.net
Subject: Stus-List Marina North of NYC

 

Can anyone recommend a deep draft marina  north of New York City? Or maybe 
(Less than the $5 foot @ Liberty Landing ) 

Bill Coleman
C 39

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Stus-List Marina North of NYC

[coltrek--- via CnC-List]

Can anyone recommend a deep draft marina  north of New York City? Or maybe 
(Less than the $5 foot @ Liberty Landing )

Bill Coleman
C 39



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Re: Stus-List Wax

[coltrek--- via CnC-List]

No, it's a polymer. And I don't claim to understand the difference between a 
wax and a polymer, but it's supposed to be better. And although I  am using 
Poli Glow, when I recommended this to my buddy, he was quite astounded when he 
came back through the canal, and did not have a mustache. Everybody with wax on 
gelcoat will have a mustache. But it just did not stick to Rejex . And he was 
sold.
 Poli Glow is an acrylic. It's kind of a heavy build up as someone else just 
mentioned. I just stripped mine last year and started over . Poli Glow is where 
you go when your gelcoat coat is too old for a wax or polymer. 

Bill Coleman
C 39

On Sunday, April 22, 2018 Rick Brass via CnC-List  wrote:
Sounds a lot like PoliGlow or New Glass except a lot less expensive.

-Original Message-
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Bill
Coleman via CnC-List
Sent: Sunday, April 22, 2018 12:59 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Bill Coleman 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Wax

Rejex.

http://rejex.com/marine/

http://www.truevalue.com/product/car-wax-polymer-sealant-and-stain-barrier-1
6-oz-/14823.uts


Way better than any Wax I have ever used. Everyone I have suggested it to
swears by it.

Bill Coleman
C 39 Erie, PA

-Original Message-
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Andrew
Burton via CnC-List
Sent: Friday, April 20, 2018 3:37 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Andrew Burton
Subject: Stus-List Wax

Ok, assembled wisdom, what is the best wax to keep my gel coat shiny all
summer? Peregrine was awl gripped so just used Awl Care, but I'm not sure
that would work for gel coat.
Cheers
Andy
Formerly,
C 40
Peregrine
Now,
Baltic 47
Masquerade

Andrew Burton
61 W Narragansett
Newport, RI 
USA 02840

http://sites.google.com/site/andrewburtonyachtservices/
+401 965-5260
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Re: Stus-List PSS shaft seal

[coltrek via CnC-List]

Josh, I did not mean to slam you in any way. My point is simply this: I just 
think it's better to prevent, than to treat a problem. There isn't a hose on my 
boat below the water line that I can't look at with confidence and walk away. 
If I felt I had to close the through hull for any reason,  I would want to know 
why, and fix it.. That's all.
Bill ColemanC 39

 Original message 
From: Josh Muckley via CnC-List  
Date: 2/17/18  22:06  (GMT-05:00) 
To: C List  
Cc: Josh Muckley  
Subject: Re: Stus-List PSS shaft seal 

For anybody concerned about burning up the engine.  We hang the key on the 
through hull.
We also got a SpeedSeal Life and a Globe Run Dry impeller. 
http://www.speedseal.com/SpeedsealLife/SpeedsealLife.html

https://www.gcsmarine.com/content/impellers/impellers

As for the warm beer... I can only advocate for the merits of an air cooled 
refrigerator.
Josh

On Feb 17, 2018 9:44 PM, "Bill Coleman via CnC-List"  
wrote:













I am so flakey, I know that if I closed all my through hulls I
would invariably forget to open them, and either burn up my engine,  have warm
beer, or some other malady , so I just put new hoses on and check the clamps.

Which isn’t a bad idea anyway.

 

Bill Coleman

C 39 Erie, PA

 



From: CnC-List
[mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Josh Muckley via
CnC-List

Sent: Saturday, February 17, 2018 4:45 PM

To: C List

Cc: Josh Muckley

Subject: Re: Stus-List PSS shaft seal



 



As for old hoses that's why it is so important to close your
through hulls when away from the boat.



 





Josh 







 



On Feb 17, 2018 4:32 PM, "Len Mitchell via
CnC-List" 
wrote:



I installed a drip less shaft seal about 7 or 8 years ago
when I replaced my cutlass bearing. Like Josh said I opted to not install the
vent hose, it came with a nylon plug. It has worked flawlessly. I burp the air
out on launch and if I get air bubbles in the hose for any reason I can clearly
hear a chirping noise and burp it again but that is infrequent if at all. I
know they are supposed to be replaced as a precaution but I inspect it often
and it looks like new. The motor seldom gets used other than to clear the dock 
so
it hasn’t got many hours on it. If I were doing it again, I would just replace
the hose and use new packing. Like others have said, the shaft seal isn’t the
only source of water in the bilge so fwiw I wouldn’t bother if I were doing it
again. 



 





BUT many of us have 30+ year old boats with the original
rubber stuffing box hose plus other old hoses. You have to ask yourself do you
trust $5 worth of old rubber hose to hold the water out? Crazy Legs has
3 sink drains, 2 sea water intakes plus the stuffing box. Don’t forget the old
rubber poo hose and fuel hose! Put your hand up if you have original rubber
hose somewhere! Check yours out, mine had cracks along the surface of the hoses
and I wasn’t comfortable leaving it that way. 





 





Len Mitchell 





SV Crazy Legs





1989 37 +





Midland On



Sent from my iPad









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to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray






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Re: Stus-List Mast boot and keel bolts

[coltrek via CnC-List]

Put a garboard drain in the lowest part of your bilge. Just keep it open in the 
winter so anything that gets in drains out.
Bill Coleman
C 39

 Original message 
From: Brien Sadler via CnC-List  
Date: 2/12/18  16:38  (GMT-05:00) 
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Cc: Brien Sadler  
Subject: Re: Stus-List Mast boot and keel bolts 

The only reason I worry about the mast leak is water in the bilge in the 
winter. It’s probably from being a submariner for close to 20 years, that in my 
mind water in the bilge is a big “No No”. I don’t want it turning to ice and 
causing problems. I have a bottle that catches most of the water that drips to 
the mast step, but when we have a couple of deluge days like we had yesterday 
in CT the bottle over flows into the bilge. I poured a little anti-freeze in 
the bilge at the beginning of the season to keep any over flow from freezing, 
and that worked pretty well. Since it was warm out today I vacuumed everything 
out and it’s dry but who knows in the next 2-3 months how many more 3-4 inches 
of rain days we’re going to have. Any other suggestions on rain water in the 
bilge and how to deal with it in the winter would be great.
Also, I think I’m going to leave the keel bolts just like they are and inspect 
on a regular basis. They seem to be fine and the previous owners left them that 
way and they seemed to know what they were doing. So I’ll just keep an eye on 
it. Thanks again.

Brien

Sent from my iPad
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Re: Stus-List Toe rail water drain

[coltrek via CnC-List]

Or you can take a leap of faith, and cut a hole in the low spot of your deck, 
and put a little drain in there. I noticed all the newer models had deck drains 
in them, so I popped two in.  I routed the drain hoses back to a T into the 
cockpit drains.
Bill ColemanC 39

 Original message 
From: bwhitmore via CnC-List  
Date: 2/11/18  08:19  (GMT-05:00) 
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Cc: bwhitmore  
Subject: Re: Stus-List Toe rail water drain 



I have used natural sponge cut & inserted in strategic spots for nearly 20 
years.  Really works well.  Never tried the rope.


Sent from Samsung tablet.

 Original message 
From: Jake Brodersen via CnC-List  
Date: 2/10/2018  5:02 PM  (GMT-05:00) 
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Cc: captain_j...@cox.net 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Toe rail water drain 

Christian, Water pooling on the side decks is an issue, along with the black 
streaks that seem to radiate from the toe rail.  I have seen others use small 
pieces of sponge or cotton rope to let the water wick over the side.  I would 
certainly try this before cutting into the toe rail.  Give it a shot. Jake  
Jake BrodersenC 35 Mk-III “Midnight Mistress”Hampton VA   From: CnC-List 
[mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Christian Planton via 
CnC-List
Sent: Saturday, February 10, 2018 16:03
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Christian Planton 
Subject: Stus-List Toe rail water drain Hello everybody, I am going to rebed my 
deck hardware. When I do I'm thinking of rebedding the toe rail. Has anybody 
cut drain points into it so the water drains out. I was even thinking of 
cutting 1/8" plastic strips and in a couple of places "Lifting up" the toe rail 
to create a path for the water to drain.  I get puddles aft on both sides of 
the cockpit.  Any thoughts would be greatly appreciated.  ChristianPlantonPeer 
GythC 34 1980 Saugatuck, CT 
  Wilton Public Schools is transitioning e-mail systems.  Effective 
immediately, please update your contact list to reflect the new e-mail address 
plant...@wiltonps.org.___

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Re: Stus-List insurance

[coltrek via CnC-List]

I got a quote from BoatUS  around the end of September I think, and then when I 
went to go buy the insurance in December,, it had gone up 35%. Needless to say, 
I balked and started looking. I got a couple of other quotes in a similar 
range, and then one quote for around $900 less than the BoatUS original quote. 
It's crazy. They are obviously trying to pay for that horrendous mess last 
summer, that had to have cost them hundreds of Millions. But, I'm not in that 
high-risk area so why should I have to pay the price of paradise when I don't 
have it?
Bill Coleman 
C 39



 Original message 
From: ahycrace ahycrace via CnC-List  
Date: 2/3/18  15:50  (GMT-05:00) 
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Cc: ahycrace ahycrace  
Subject: Stus-List insurance 

Hello all               Well I just got my insurance bill from boat US and it 
went up 238$  a pretty big increase.  I called to ask why and they said it was 
nothing on my end rates just went up.  I am wondering if everybody else got 
raised as well?  I tried to increase my deductible  which is zero, to say 4% or 
so to lower my rates. They said they can't do that because they have a 
automatic lowering of the deductible over time and once it reaches zero it must 
stay there. Sounds like they just want to keep the bill up! 1100$ for 40k, 
might have to start shopping, any feedback?
                                                             Gary K  "Liberty"  
1976  38'  MKll___

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Re: Stus-List "Maritime Documentation Center"

[coltrek via CnC-List]

I'll bet you can count the number of documented vessels in Colorado on one hand 
!

Bill

 Original message 
From: Randy Stafford via CnC-List  
Date: 1/25/18  17:35  (GMT-05:00) 
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Cc: Randy Stafford  
Subject: Re: Stus-List "Maritime Documentation Center" 

In Colorado, USCG-documented vessels are exempt from the requirement to be 
registered in the state.  
http://cpw.state.co.us/Documents/Boating/BoatingRegulations.pdf, pg.28, statute 
33-13-103(1)(b).
Cheers,Randy
On Jan 25, 2018, at 3:30 PM, svpegasus38 via CnC-List  
wrote:
Same with Washington. State. Just have to display the state sticker on 
documented vessels. 


Sent from my T-Mobile 4G LTE DeviceDoug Mountjoy POYC Rebecca Leah Lf39
 Original message From: schiller via CnC-List 
 Date: 1/25/18 13:40 (GMT-08:00)To: 
cnc-list@cnc-list.comCc: schiller  Subject: Re: 
Stus-List "Maritime Documentation Center"
Michigan requires that you display the Michigan Registration sticker on 
documented boats.  You will get a registration number when you register the 
boat but you do not have to display them.  Before I renewed the documentation 
on Corsair (Redwing 35), I displayed the registration numbers on a plastic 
panels hung from the bow lifelines.  Michigan has now outlawed that so I 
documented Corsair.  I hate putting registration numbers on the fiberglass bow. 
 Grace (C 35-3) already had registration numbers on the bow and has never 
been documented.

Interestingly enough, the water cops all think any boat over 25' that doesn't 
display registration numbers must be documented so they don't check.  Even if 
they aren't displaying the registration sticker.

Neil Schiller
Old: 1970 Redwing 35 (C 35, Mark I), Hull #7
New: 1983 C 35-3, #028
White Lake, Michigan
WLYC

On 1/25/2018 4:13 PM, Jack Brennan via CnC-List wrote:
Florida has a wonderful discount for “antique” vessels at least 30 years old. I 
think I pay $5 a year – as opposed to maybe $135 – because I sail a good old 
boat. Florida also requires a state decal for federally documented vessels such 
as mine, by the way. Jack BrennanFormer C 25Shanachie, 1974 Bristol 30
Tierra Verde, Fl.From: Matthew L. Wolford via CnC-ListSent: Thursday, January 
25, 2018 3:55 PMTo: cnc-list@cnc-list.comCc: Matthew L. WolfordSubject: Re: 
Stus-List "Maritime Documentation Center" ___

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Re: Stus-List C 30, 1973 strut problem

[coltrek via CnC-List]

Google,

buck algonquin strut





Bill

 Original message 
From: Alfredo Figueroa via CnC-List  
Date: 1/14/18  09:35  (GMT-05:00) 
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Cc: Alfredo Figueroa  
Subject: Stus-List C 30, 1973 strut problem 

Hi, I need help, my C of 1973, has broken the propeller strut (shaft) 
bracket at the base. I want to buy a new one, but I do not have the model and 
the posible manufacture. 
If some one has experience that want to share, it will help me a lot.
Attach of a similar problem.
Thanks
On Jan 12, 2018 9:46 AM, "Alfredo Figueroa"  wrote:
Hi, I need help, my C of 1973, has broken the propeller strut (shaft) 
bracket at the base. I want to buy a new one, but I do not have the model and 
the posible manufacture. 
If some one has experience that want to share, it will help me a lot.
Attach of a similar problem.
Thanks

___

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Re: Stus-List be careful out there!

[coltrek via CnC-List]

I am surprised your dehumidifier works at those temperatures. Usually they 
freeze up around 65 degrees and lower. My daughter and son-in-law lived on 
their boat for a couple of years in Baltimore. Have pictures of her in a 
Cossack hat  and coats after forgetting to leave the heater on. Pretty darn 
cold. She loved it tho. Him not so much. You must be a real Viking.
BillColeman C 39

 Original message 
From: David Morrison via CnC-List  
Date: 1/10/18  21:59  (GMT-05:00) 
To: "Della Barba,  Joe" , cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Cc: David Morrison  
Subject: Re: Stus-List be careful out there! 

Living aboard here in New Haven this winter.  The agitator (situated at the 
bow) has been working overtime the past few weeks.  Hope to give it a break in 
the next day or to.  Bow is free but ice is rubbing on the rudder.  not good.
Other than the harbor freezing over living aboard has been easy.  Experiencing 
minimal condensation inside - hull is lined with wood strips and v-berth 
cushions are dry.  I also have a small dehumidifier running non stop.  Average 
inside temp for the past month is 52.0F.
--Dave1980 C 40 - Terrapin Flyer



 Original Message 

Subject: Stus-List be careful out there!

From: "Della Barba, Joe" 

Date: Wed, January 10, 2018 1:34 pm

To: "cnc-list@cnc-list.com" 




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I went down to the boat last night to turn the ice eater off and turn the 
cabin heat down. It was above freezing all day, but a layer of dew settled on 
everything and the temperature had dropped from 33 to 30 as the sun set. A 
super-slick layer of ice froze onto everything including the dock and there are 
no ladders I can swim to if I fall  in that aren’t at least a couple hundred 
feet away.   Joe Coquina C 35 MK I

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Re: Stus-List CNG tank refill location

[coltrek via CnC-List]

Righto. Like I said, I'm not my area of expertise.

Bill

 Original message 
From: Joe Della Barba via CnC-List <cnc-list@cnc-list.com> 
Date: 12/31/17  15:47  (GMT-07:00) 
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Cc: Joe Della Barba <j...@dellabarba.com> 
Subject: Re: Stus-List CNG tank refill location 

CNG is not propane. CNG is always a gas and the tanks fill up to about 2500 
PSI.Propane tanks are at about 200 PSI or less. A CNG tank is a scuba tank with 
a different valve. The filling stations for CNG vehicles commonly have a lower 
pressure and higher pressure pump. This adapter fits the high pressure one and 
I went nuts over at the low pressure pump. In this case low = 2000 PSI and high 
= 3500 PSI. You need to be easy with the valve and fill your tank to about 
2200.  Joe Della barba...@dellabarba.com CoquinaC 35 MK IFrom: CnC-List 
[mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of coltrek via CnC-List
Sent: Sunday, December 31, 2017 3:28 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: coltrek <colt...@verizon.net>
Subject: Re: Stus-List CNG tank refill location I'm a little out of my area of 
expertise here, but I tried to get an adapter for a forklift propane tank, 
which is laid sideways. And after talking to a friend of mine in the propane 
business, he told me that forklifts use liquid propane which was what happens 
when you laid on its side, and Flames used vapor gas which comes straight up. I 
think for that reason, there were no adapters readily available. Just a 
thought. Bill Coleman C 39

 Original message 
From: detroito91 via CnC-List <cnc-list@cnc-list.com> 
Date: 12/31/17 13:03 (GMT-07:00) 
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Cc: detroito91 <detroit...@aol.com> 
Subject: Re: Stus-List CNG tank refill location 

Great idea.i'll look into itThanksJim  Original message From: 
Joe Della Barba via CnC-List <cnc-list@cnc-list.com> Date: 12/31/17 2:16 PM 
(GMT-05:00) To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com Cc: Joe Della Barba <j...@dellabarba.com> 
Subject: Re: Stus-List CNG tank refill location  Do you have one of the CNG 
adapters to fill up at car CNG stations?A tank fill now costs me around $2 J
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Boat-CNG-Tank-Refill-Adapter/182978797859?hash=item2a9a62e123:g:r0UAAOSwzaJX3UrH=mtr
 · Note there are two kinds of CNG nozzles. I spent some time at the 
wrong pump until I figured it out – d’oh!  Joe Della barba...@dellabarba.com 
CoquinaFrom: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of 
detroito91 via CnC-List
Sent: Saturday, December 30, 2017 9:56 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: detroito91 <detroit...@aol.com>; Jack Fitzgerald 
<j...@fitzgeraldforwarding.com>
Subject: Re: Stus-List CNG tank refill location Deal.  Original message 
From: Jack Fitzgerald via CnC-List <cnc-list@cnc-list.com> Date: 
12/30/17 2:18 PM (GMT-05:00) To: C <cnc-list@cnc-list.com> Cc: Jack 
Fitzgerald <j...@fitzgeraldforwarding.com> Subject: Re: Stus-List CNG tank 
refill location  Jim
Let me know when you are in Savannah and hopefully we can hook up for a beer & 
to talk C boats.
Best regards,
Jack Fitzgerald 
260 Oatland Island Road, Savannah, GA 31410 USA
mobile number: 912 441.2296Email*: j...@fitzgeraldforwarding.com This email is 
protected by the Electronic Communications Privacy
Act, 18 U.S.C. Sec. 2510-2521, is confidential and may be legally
privileged.  If you are not the intended recipient, you are hereby notified
that any retention, dissemination, distribution or copying of this
communication is strictly prohibited.  Please reply to the sender that you
have received this message in error, then delete it.  Thank you  On Fri, Dec 
29, 2017 at 3:42 PM, detroito91 via CnC-List <cnc-list@cnc-list.com> 
wrote:Thanks Jackwe'll be coming thru mid feb for spme tourist action but 
not cng!  Original message From: Jack Fitzgerald via CnC-List 
<cnc-list@cnc-list.com> Date: 12/29/17 9:22 AM (GMT-05:00) To: C 
<cnc-list@cnc-list.com> Cc: Jack Fitzgerald <j...@fitzgeraldforwarding.com> 
Subject: Re: Stus-List CNG tank refill location  There isn't a CNG filling 
station in Savnanah
Best regards,
Jack FitzgeraldHONEY - US12788C 39TMSavannah, GA USA On Thu, Dec 28, 2017 at 
10:58 PM, detroit...@aol.com via CnC-List <cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote: This 
is aimed at the locations on the east coast south of Annapolis.Looking for 
re-fill locations for the CNG tanks on board. Does anyone know of any sites.  
Will be heading south from washington,nc on the icw. So if you know of any 
sites along the way...please let me know.Thanks...you guys are the greatest.Jim 
schwartzSEA YA!38 LFwashington nc  YBoat came with CNG cooking and really don't 
want to convert. Sent from my T-Mobile 4G LTE device 
___

Thanks everyone for___

Thanks everyone f

Re: Stus-List CNG tank refill location

[coltrek via CnC-List]

I'm a little out of my area of expertise here, but I tried to get an adapter 
for a forklift propane tank, which is laid sideways. And after talking to a 
friend of mine in the propane business, he told me that forklifts use liquid 
propane which was what happens when you laid on its side, and Flames used vapor 
gas which comes straight up. I think for that reason, there were no adapters 
readily available. Just a thought.
Bill Coleman C 39

 Original message 
From: detroito91 via CnC-List  
Date: 12/31/17  13:03  (GMT-07:00) 
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Cc: detroito91  
Subject: Re: Stus-List CNG tank refill location 

Great idea.i'll look into itThanksJim
 Original message From: Joe Della Barba via CnC-List 
 Date: 12/31/17  2:16 PM  (GMT-05:00) To: 
cnc-list@cnc-list.com Cc: Joe Della Barba  Subject: Re: 
Stus-List CNG tank refill location 
Do you have one of the CNG adapters to fill up at car CNG stations?A tank fill 
now costs me around $2 J
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Boat-CNG-Tank-Refill-Adapter/182978797859?hash=item2a9a62e123:g:r0UAAOSwzaJX3UrH=mtr
 · Note there are two kinds of CNG nozzles. I spent some time at the 
wrong pump until I figured it out – d’oh!  Joe Della barba...@dellabarba.com 
CoquinaFrom: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of 
detroito91 via CnC-List
Sent: Saturday, December 30, 2017 9:56 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: detroito91 ; Jack Fitzgerald 

Subject: Re: Stus-List CNG tank refill location Deal.  Original message 
From: Jack Fitzgerald via CnC-List  Date: 
12/30/17 2:18 PM (GMT-05:00) To: C  Cc: Jack 
Fitzgerald  Subject: Re: Stus-List CNG tank 
refill location  Jim
Let me know when you are in Savannah and hopefully we can hook up for a beer & 
to talk C boats.
Best regards,
Jack Fitzgerald 
260 Oatland Island Road, Savannah, GA 31410 USA
mobile number: 912 441.2296Email*: j...@fitzgeraldforwarding.com This email is 
protected by the Electronic Communications Privacy
Act, 18 U.S.C. Sec. 2510-2521, is confidential and may be legally
privileged.  If you are not the intended recipient, you are hereby notified
that any retention, dissemination, distribution or copying of this
communication is strictly prohibited.  Please reply to the sender that you
have received this message in error, then delete it.  Thank you  On Fri, Dec 
29, 2017 at 3:42 PM, detroito91 via CnC-List  
wrote:Thanks Jackwe'll be coming thru mid feb for spme tourist action but 
not cng!  Original message From: Jack Fitzgerald via CnC-List 
 Date: 12/29/17 9:22 AM (GMT-05:00) To: C 
 Cc: Jack Fitzgerald  
Subject: Re: Stus-List CNG tank refill location  There isn't a CNG filling 
station in Savnanah
Best regards,
Jack FitzgeraldHONEY - US12788C 39TMSavannah, GA USA On Thu, Dec 28, 2017 at 
10:58 PM, detroit...@aol.com via CnC-List  wrote: This 
is aimed at the locations on the east coast south of Annapolis.Looking for 
re-fill locations for the CNG tanks on board. Does anyone know of any sites.  
Will be heading south from washington,nc on the icw. So if you know of any 
sites along the way...please let me know.Thanks...you guys are the greatest.Jim 
schwartzSEA YA!38 LFwashington nc  YBoat came with CNG cooking and really don't 
want to convert. Sent from my T-Mobile 4G LTE device 
___

Thanks everyone for___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Re: Stus-List toe rails

[coltrek via CnC-List]

I had a few places I had to touch up, and I use a flat black heat resistant 
spray, (B/C that was what I had), then I put an automobile type clear coat 
over. Still looks good 12 years later. 
Bill Coleman C 39

 Original message 
From: William Walker via CnC-List  
Date: 12/29/17  13:14  (GMT-06:00) 
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Cc: wwadjo...@aol.com 
Subject: Re: Stus-List toe rails 

Any recommendations for product to use on toe rails on which anodized black is 
hazy, whitish, but intact.

Thanks in advance.

Bill Walker CnC 36







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Re: Stus-List C 40 Peregrine Sold

[coltrek via CnC-List]

I agree on all those points Andy, I cut my teeth scrubbing teak decks on large 
power boats and I saw how they aged. My point was simply, that by doing this, 
you can extend the life greatly between having to redo the decks, which can be 
horrendously expensive. When they are allowed to age naturally, especially in 
the tropics, they don't last all that long.  I guess I'm preaching to the choir 
!Some fellow I sold some Spinnakers to, (I think he was from Nova Scotia) was 
captain of the Ticonderoga and he said that used Deks ole. And with tons of 
people walking on them he said it gave it a really nice finish.


Bill

 Original message 
From: Andrew Burton via CnC-List <cnc-list@cnc-list.com> 
Date: 12/23/17  22:44  (GMT-05:00) 
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Cc: Andrew Burton <a.burton.sai...@gmail.com> 
Subject: Re: Stus-List C 40 Peregrine Sold 

I've always thought teak looks best when it's scrubbed white--across the grain 
of course. Chemical cleaners take years off the life of a teak deck. Oil also 
takes away from the wonderful non skid properties of a teak deck. 
Andy

Andrew Burton
61 West Narragansett Ave
Newport, RI 
USA 02840

+401 965 5260


> On Dec 23, 2017, at 19:33, coltrek via CnC-List <cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
> 
> Isn't it great when everything comes together? :-)
> 
> Congrats,  looks like a great boat.  There is a fellow here who had a Baltic 
> 42, now a 52, he uses some type of oil on the deck and the teak looks as good 
> when he sells them a when he buys them. 
> .
> 
> Bill Coleman
> C 39
> 
> 
>  Original message 
> From: Andrew Burton via CnC-List <cnc-list@cnc-list.com> 
> Date: 12/23/17 15:26 (GMT-05:00) 
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
> Cc: Andrew Burton <a.burton.sai...@gmail.com> 
> Subject: Stus-List C 40 Peregrine Sold 
> 
> Just wanted to let everyone know that we are going to survey next week and 
> all going according to plan, Peregrine is going to a lucky new owner. 
> The first of no doubt many tears have been shed, but the excitement of having 
> the new boat is helping ease the pain. 
> The new boat is a Baltic 47 built in 1995.
> 
> Cheers
> Andy
> 
> 
> Andrew Burton
> 61 W Narragansett
> Newport, RI 
> USA    02840
> 
> http://sites.google.com/site/andrewburtonyachtservices/
> +401 965-5260
> ___
> 
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
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Re: Stus-List C 40 Peregrine Sold

[coltrek via CnC-List]

Isn't it great when everything comes together? :-)
Congrats,  looks like a great boat.  There is a fellow here who had a Baltic 
42, now a 52, he uses some type of oil on the deck and the teak looks as good 
when he sells them a when he buys them. .
Bill ColemanC 39

 Original message 
From: Andrew Burton via CnC-List  
Date: 12/23/17  15:26  (GMT-05:00) 
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Cc: Andrew Burton  
Subject: Stus-List C 40 Peregrine Sold 

Just wanted to let everyone know that we are going to survey next week and all 
going according to plan, Peregrine is going to a lucky new owner. 
The first of no doubt many tears have been shed, but the excitement of having 
the new boat is helping ease the pain. 
The new boat is a Baltic 47 built in 1995.

Cheers
Andy


Andrew Burton
61 W Narragansett
Newport, RI 
USA    02840

http://sites.google.com/site/andrewburtonyachtservices/
+401 965-5260
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Re: Stus-List PROPELLER PITCH

[coltrek via CnC-List]

One advantage of using the manufacturer's recommendation though, is that if it 
isn't quite right, they will usually fix it. My three bladed Gori would not 
quite get up to max RPM, and smoked a little bit, so I sent it back. They sent 
it over to Denmark or wherever they make them and took a half an inch off the 
OD, airmailed it back, and it worked perfectly




Bill ColemanC 39

 Original message 
From: "Dennis C. via CnC-List"  
Date: 12/18/17  11:24  (GMT-05:00) 
To: CnClist  
Cc: "Dennis C."  
Subject: Re: Stus-List PROPELLER PITCH 

Take prop manufacturers recommendations with a grain of salt.  Years ago I 
requested a recommendation from Flexofold.  The rep at the time was Chuck Angle 
who was highly regarded.  He said he didn't have a good prop recommendation for 
my 35-1.  :)  I went with Martec.
In 2011, I repeated the request and got a recommendation for a 15 x 12.In 2016, 
I again asked and they said 16 x 12.
Currently, Touche' is swinging a 14 x 14 Martec which seems a bit under pitched 
(or too small a diameter).  I can run at 6.4-6.5 knots at cruise rpm (80% max, 
2450 rpm) and flat water, no wind.
On my list for next year's haul out is to measure and document (photograph) the 
prop tip clearance distance.  I will also measure the hub and swing pin 
location.  The swing plane for different props varies.
I think prop selection is part science, part art and a bit of voodoo.
Dennis C.Touche' 35-1 #83Mandeville, LA
On Mon, Dec 18, 2017 at 9:59 AM, Rick Brass via CnC-List 
 wrote:
The problem that I see with this calculator is that there is no value for prop 
diameter (and slip is pretty intangible, though I suspect using .10 slip might 
be a good approximation for 90% efficiency). The rule of thumb that a local 
propshop told me is that changing prop diameter by 1” is approximately 
equivalent to changing the prop pitch by 2”. So diameter also enters into the 
calculation. I believe each prop maker has their own calculator for 
recommending initial diameter and pitch, based on boat weight, engine HP and 
targeted cruising RPM, transmission reduction ratio, and hull speed. Rick 
BrassWashington, NC   From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On 
Behalf Of svpegasus38 via CnC-List
Sent: Sunday, December 17, 2017 5:56 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: svpegasus38 
Subject: Re: Stus-List PROPELLER PITCH Try this propellor calculator. 
rbbi.com/folders/prop/propcalc.htm   Sent from my T-Mobile 4G LTE DeviceDoug 
Mountjoy POYC Rebecca Leah Lf39  Original message From: Bunky 
via CnC-List  Date: 12/17/17 14:18 (GMT-08:00) To: 
cnc-list@cnc-list.com Cc: Bunky  Subject: 
Stus-List PROPELLER PITCH  Luna is a 1984 C 35 with a Yanmar 3gm30 engine. 
Does anyone know what 
the proper propeller pitch should be? She has an aftermarket Maxiprop, 
and based on engine performance, I believe the pitch may be set too high.

Richard
Luna, Lake Champlain, VT

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Re: Stus-List C 40 for sale

[coltrek via CnC-List]

Beautiful boat, you shouldn't have any trouble selling it. Almost as pretty as 
a C 39!I look at these prices, and it makes me a little sad, seeing where 
they come down to. But then I realize, that a lot of time has passed, and that 
these are in fact older boats.  And, we have had a lot of fun on them, and that 
costs money! But, unlike boats that age when we were kids, these things will 
probably outlive us, unlike Wooden Boats of the day. We really don't know how 
long these boats will last, as long as they are well taken care of.
Good luck ,
Bill ColemanC 39

 Original message 
From: Andrew Burton via CnC-List  
Date: 12/9/17  10:22  (GMT-05:00) 
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Cc: Andrew Burton  
Subject: Stus-List C 40 for sale 

Good morning, all. My wife has a web site up to help sell Peregrine.I think I 
have her priced very reasonably (Peregrine, not my wife...though, come to think 
of it...no...just Peregrine). I would be interested in any input from the 
assembled group.I will be sorry to part with her, but the new boat has extra 
cabins for kids and parents that my wife wants. I hate to leave the fold, 
though. Maybe Danny, Bruno, and I can show up at rendezvous as sort of 
auxiliary C?https://aburtonsailor.wixsite.com/peregrine
CheersAndyC 40Peregrine

Andrew Burton61 W NarragansettNewport, RI USA    02840
http://sites.google.com/site/andrewburtonyachtservices/+401 965-5260___

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Re: Stus-List White non skid decks

[coltrek via CnC-List]

Sounds like the area around your boat is dirty. That's the first thing I would 
be concerned with. Beyond that, try Woody Wax. 

Bill ColemanC 39

 Original message 
From: Rod Stright via CnC-List  
Date: 11/22/17  15:40  (GMT-05:00) 
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Cc: Rod Stright  
Subject: Stus-List White non skid decks 

Just pressure washed the deck on my new to me C 99.  Man they look great but 
as soon as you step on the non skid it looks dirty and is difficult to clean. 
Anybody got any tips for keeping the white non skid decks clean and/or easier 
to clean? Rod2004 C 99













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Stus-List Surveyor

[coltrek via CnC-List]

 looking for a recommendation for a good surveyor in the Annapolis Area please.


Regards,
Bill ColemanC 39

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Re: Stus-List Does anyone know the type of black plastic (Marelon?) stanchion base used on my C?

[coltrek via CnC-List]

The stanchion base, you should be able to remove it and have it ground out and 
welded. That's what I did with mine.


Regards,
Bill Coleman  C 39

 Original message 
From: Bruce Whitmore via CnC-List  
Date: 11/18/17  09:36  (GMT-05:00) 
To: C List  
Cc: Bruce Whitmore  
Subject: Stus-List Does anyone know the type of black plastic (Marelon?) 
stanchion base used on my C? 

It is a 1994 C 37/40+.  

I have one stanchion base that is cracked that I'd like to replace.
Thanks! 
 Bruce Whitmore

(847) 404-5092 (mobile)
bwhitm...@sbcglobal.net
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Re: Stus-List Diesel tank hoses

[coltrek via CnC-List]

I have a roll of quarter inch fuel hose from Parker Hannifin, that says u.s. 
Coast Guard approved. It is blue . And Joe is right, it is very thick and 
heavy. You could use it as a backstay on a 50-footer. It has braided stainless 
steel spring wire in it, and it is a royal bitch to cut, even with a bandsaw. 
If my boat caught on fire, that would be the last thing left.


Regards,
Bill ColemanC 39

 Original message 
From: "Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List"  
Date: 11/9/17  11:38  (GMT-05:00) 
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Cc: "Della Barba, Joe"  
Subject: Re: Stus-List Diesel tank hoses 



Non-marine hose may well work to keep fuel inside of itself, but auto hose in 
general isn’t even close to the fire resistance of marine hose. Airplane hoses 
have fire-sleeves over them and marine hose is about
 3-4 times as thick as it needs to be so there is a lot of rubber to burn away 
before it would have a hole in it. Auto hose has neither.
 
Joe
Coquina
 


From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com]
On Behalf Of Rick Brass via CnC-List

Sent: Thursday, November 09, 2017 11:36 AM

To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com

Cc: Rick Brass 

Subject: Re: Stus-List Diesel tank hoses


 
Well, you should be using only SAE fuel hose. And the specs are the same 
regardless of the manufacturer. So use whatever is less expensive.
 
You might even get a price on hose – probably Gates Rubber – from your local 
NAPA store. Since it’s not “Boat Hose” it’s probably significantly less than 
either WM or Defender.
 
Rick Brass
Washington, NC
 
 
 


From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com]
On Behalf Of John and Maryann Read via CnC-List

Sent: Tuesday, November 7, 2017 9:23 PM

To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com

Cc: John and Maryann Read 

Subject: Stus-List Diesel tank hoses


 
Removed my OEM aluminum diesel tank now 35 years old.  Exterior looks great but 
interior shows a number of corrosion issues.  Had to remove fittings and saw 
off the inlet fitting to get the tank out of the locker so was committed when I
 did that to getting a new tank.  That said, the hidden corrosion on the 
interior tells me an incident was in the making so replacing now is a good idea.

 
Have replacement aluminum tank made by Luther’s in Bristol RI who by all 
accounts are the “go to” source for a tank made right in all respects.  Not the 
least expensive by any stretch but by far the best value or so they say
J
 
Question is replacing the hoses.  West carries the Shields brand, Defender the 
Trident at a cost differential of some 20% less in price.  Specifications are 
essentially identical.  Any reason to not embrace the lower price??
 
John and Maryann
Legacy III
1982 C 34
Noank, CT
 

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Re: Stus-List Silicone residue...

[coltrek via CnC-List]

I think someone here on the list mentioned that it was called Stoddard solvent


Regards,
Bill

 Original message 
From: Randal Stafford via CnC-List  
Date: 11/5/17  14:45  (GMT-05:00) 
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Cc: Randal Stafford  
Subject: Re: Stus-List Silicone residue... 

Coleman liquid fuel.

Sent from my iPhone
On Nov 4, 2017, at 12:22 PM, David via CnC-List  wrote:






I know this has been answered before, but was is the solvent used to get rid of 
silicone from fibreglass?



Thanks in advance.  










Sent from my Verizon 4G LTE smartphone



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Re: Stus-List News story

[coltrek via CnC-List]

That claim will probably validated within a half a year.  Or not. Everyone is 
writing books. We should all write one. 


Regards,
Bill

 Original message 
From: Danny Haughey via CnC-List  
Date: 10/27/17  19:04  (GMT-05:00) 
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Cc: Danny Haughey  
Subject: Re: Stus-List News story 

I just saw a very short interview with the women on the news.  Apparently, they 
were swamped in a storm that washed the engine and damaged the rig.  No more 
info than that.   Although, both women looked healthy and not very distressed. 
They were found 900 miles off Japan. 
one statement I found really puzzling.  She said she was sure they would have 
died in the next 24 hours.  But they weren't emaciated at all.  You'd think of 
they were afraid of running out of food they would be rationing and very thin. 
My guess is they were writing their book and maybe embellishing the situation a 
bit.  That's a terrible thing to say isn't it?  Lol
Danny
Sent from my T-Mobile 4G LTE Device
 Original message From: David Knecht via CnC-List 
 Date: 10/27/17  5:32 PM  (GMT-05:00) To: CnC CnC 
discussion list  Cc: David Knecht 
 Subject: Re: Stus-List News story 
Yes, but the report in the UK Mail says that they had a mast problem, and could 
sail at 4-5 knots. I don’t see why that is a problem.  The real question is now 
they got “lost”.  Did they have no navigational capability?  No solar or wind 
power?  Also, they lost their cell phone overboard the first day.  What use is 
a cell phone in the Pacific Ocean?  Lots more to hear on this one.  Dave

Aries1990 C 34+New London, CT




On Oct 27, 2017, at 6:51 AM, Danny Haughey via CnC-List  
wrote:
 According to the morning news, part of their rigging broke and they oatmeal, 
pasta and rice.  
Danny


Sent from my T-Mobile 4G LTE Device
 Original message From: Brad Crawford via CnC-List 
 Date: 10/26/17  10:05 PM  (GMT-05:00) To: 
cnc-list@cnc-list.com Cc: Brad Crawford  Subject: Re: 
Stus-List News story 
What happened to sailing?

Sent from my iPad

> On Oct 26, 2017, at 4:01 PM, John Pennie via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
> Ok, wtf? Story on news tonight about a sailboat that was stranded in the 
> Pacific for 5months after their engine broke down on an otherwise functional 
> boat.  Apparently the crew survived as they had a water maker and a year’s 
> supply of oatmeal.  Something not add up here?  And who really has a 1 year 
> supply of oatmeal for two people and a dog? 
> 
> Gotta be more coming on this one...
> 
> John
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPad
> ___
> 
> The bills have started coming in for the year 2018 and have gone up again.  
> October will be our fund raising month.  Please consider sending a small 
> contribution to help keep this list running.  Use PayPal to send contribution 
> --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> 
> All contributions are greatly appreciated!


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The bills have started coming in for the year 2018 and have gone up again.  
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Re: Stus-List Lake Superior Storm [was Stove]

[coltrek via CnC-List]

Speaking of covers, I need a new cover. Mine was ripped to shreds last 
February. Can anyone give me a recommendation on cover fabric?. specific names, 
like Top Gun, etc. I have a sewing machine, and I intend on making one.


Regards,
Bill ColemanC 39

 Original message 
From: Frederick G Street via CnC-List <cnc-list@cnc-list.com> 
Date: 10/28/17  15:15  (GMT-05:00) 
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Cc: Frederick G Street <f...@postaudio.net> 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Lake Superior Storm [was Stove] 

Yup, it was a pretty good storm; wave heights on Lake Superior were measured up 
to twenty-eight feet at the peak of the storm, with wind gusts exceeding 65+ 
mph.  A bunch of crazy surfers were out on the lake yesterday after the storm 
near Marquette, Michigan, about two hundred miles east of where I sail.
I hope the cover is still on the boat; hopefully the heavy snow weighed it 
down…   :^)


Fred Street -- Minneapolis
S/V Oceanis (1979 C Landfall 38) -- on the hard in Bayfield, WI   :^(


On Oct 28, 2017, at 2:03 PM, coltrek via CnC-List <cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
I just heard Duluth got 10 inches of snow and 100 mile-an-hour winds!.


Regards,
Bill
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Re: Stus-List Stove

[coltrek via CnC-List]

I just heard Duluth got 10 inches of snow and 100 mile-an-hour winds!.


Regards,
Bill

 Original message 
From: Frederick G Street via CnC-List  
Date: 10/28/17  14:30  (GMT-05:00) 
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Cc: Frederick G Street  
Subject: Re: Stus-List Stove 

I’m with Andy (no surprise, it happens pretty often…  :^)   We use our oven 
often, just not at the height of summer when it’s too hot both above- and 
belowdecks.  We do roasts, baked goods; all sorts of stuff.  I made some killer 
chocolate lava cakes a few years back.  In the cooler months, or when out on 
Lake Superior with its cold water year round, it helps to take the chill off 
the cabin.  And the smell of freshly-baked food is great, too!
— Fred


Fred Street -- Minneapolis
S/V Oceanis (1979 C Landfall 38) -- on the hard in Bayfield, WI   :^(



On Oct 28, 2017, at 12:24 PM, Andrew Burton via CnC-List 
 wrote:
I use the oven often when cruising. There's nothing like waking up the mate 
with fresh baked muffins or scones in the morning! Even better when we're under 
way!And pork tenderloins are relatively quick and easy to make. So is pizza. 
And I just found a great recipe for small potatoes baked with parmesan cheese 
and olive oil--goes great with steak...or the aforementioned pork...and a nice 
bottle of Bordeaux. And the broiler is excellent for toasting bagels. And I 
can't imagine re-heating Chinese food without an oven.We don't "camp" aboard 
when we're cruising. We didn't have an oven and we missed it on the first 
Peregrine, a C 27 I grew up cruising on.
AndyC 40Peregrine
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Re: Stus-List News story

[coltrek via CnC-List]

The hull of that boat looks just like the hull of the boat that that kid took 
around through the Northwest Passage, down the Pacific to Cape Horn, and then 
back up to the Chesapeake. All the black mold.


Regards,
Bill

 Original message 
From: John Pennie via CnC-List <cnc-list@cnc-list.com> 
Date: 10/28/17  12:31  (GMT-05:00) 
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Cc: John Pennie <john.pen...@icloud.com> 
Subject: Re: Stus-List News story 

I still think it’s bs.  They were in too good of shape .  Even an inexperienced 
sailor would have figured something out after 3 or 4 months :)
John

Sent from my iPhone
On Oct 28, 2017, at 11:22 AM, coltrek via CnC-List <cnc-list@cnc-list.com> 
wrote:



That was my impression also. The main looked perfectly furled on the boom, it 
looked like the jib was rolled up on the forstay-  My impression was that they 
might have lost a halyard. I can't believe they didn't have other halyards, or 
at least something to get up the Mast. Or at least be able to get that main up 
enough to put a little bit of a reef in it or something. Anything. And yes, I 
think they were clueless.


Regards,
Bill Coleman  C 39

 Original message 
From: "Matthew L. Wolford via CnC-List" <cnc-list@cnc-list.com> 
Date: 10/28/17  11:15  (GMT-05:00) 
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Cc: "Matthew L. Wolford" <wolf...@erie.net> 
Subject: Re: Stus-List News story 






I 
read a story in this morning’s paper about the two rescued women.  Sounds 
like they took enough food to last a year based on advice they received from 
experienced ocean-crossing sailors (which these women were not).  The 
article left the impression that the women were relatively clueless about boat 
handling.  It also said that the “rigging was damaged.”  My guess is 
that an experienced sailor would have figured out a way to repair the rigging 
sufficiently to sail the boat in some 
conditions.___

The bills have started coming in for the year 2018 and have gone up again.  
October will be our fund raising month.  Please consider sending a small 
contribution to help keep this list running.  Use PayPal to send contribution 
--   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

All contributions are greatly appreciated!
___

The bills have started coming in for the year 2018 and have gone up again.  
October will be our fund raising month.  Please consider sending a small 
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--   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

All contributions are greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List News story

[coltrek via CnC-List]

That was my impression also. The main looked perfectly furled on the boom, it 
looked like the jib was rolled up on the forstay-  My impression was that they 
might have lost a halyard. I can't believe they didn't have other halyards, or 
at least something to get up the Mast. Or at least be able to get that main up 
enough to put a little bit of a reef in it or something. Anything. And yes, I 
think they were clueless.


Regards,
Bill Coleman  C 39

 Original message 
From: "Matthew L. Wolford via CnC-List"  
Date: 10/28/17  11:15  (GMT-05:00) 
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Cc: "Matthew L. Wolford"  
Subject: Re: Stus-List News story 






I 
read a story in this morning’s paper about the two rescued women.  Sounds 
like they took enough food to last a year based on advice they received from 
experienced ocean-crossing sailors (which these women were not).  The 
article left the impression that the women were relatively clueless about boat 
handling.  It also said that the “rigging was damaged.”  My guess is 
that an experienced sailor would have figured out a way to repair the rigging 
sufficiently to sail the boat in some 
conditions.___

The bills have started coming in for the year 2018 and have gone up again.  
October will be our fund raising month.  Please consider sending a small 
contribution to help keep this list running.  Use PayPal to send contribution 
--   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

All contributions are greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List New Engine, now what size alternator

[coltrek via CnC-List]

This is all really good information, and I wished that I had read and digested 
it a year or so ago. Those are exactly the voltages I am seeing on mine now, 
and I'm glad to know that is just what it is supposed to do.   I mentioned 
something earlier this summer about burning a couple of alternator  belts up. 
Well, I have 125 amp Balmer alternator, and the Balmar smart regulator. And I 
think I had it set to 95% charge, which was as I recall recommended on their 
chart. But, for some reason that sucker was charging its little heart out, and 
burning belts up like crazy. I think something was wrong with my heart 
interface because I later discovered the inverter was stuck on. That was 
another problem. Later, I reset the heart back to factory defaults, and it 
started working perfectly again. This time, I never made any adjustments to it 
or set the battery amp hours or anything. It's working perfectly, so I'm 
letting sleeping dogs lie. However, the ballmart rep recommended cutting it 
down to 65% charge on the smart regulator, and I haven't felt any need to 
change that since them. Although, I did get the alternator temperature 
regulator, tied into the smart regulator.  Once you go through one of these 
things in strange ports, you never want experience  them again.


Regards,
Bill ColemanC 39

 Original message 
From: Josh Muckley via CnC-List  
Date: 10/16/17  21:32  (GMT-05:00) 
To: C List  
Cc: Josh Muckley  
Subject: Re: Stus-List New Engine, now what size alternator 

Joe, the damage I was considering would be caused by exceeding the charge rate 
for the bank size.  The conventional wisdom is that typical lead acid batteries 
should not be charged at a rate greater than 25% of their capacity.  A 100 AHr 
battery would be limited to 25 amps.  Isn't it possible to exceed the charge 
rate with a good regulator?  Particularly applicable when the battery is more 
deeply discharged.
 All of the 3 and 4 stage regulators I've ever seen will ramp up to max amps 
and hold there until ~14.6 volts is reached (80% full - end of bulk charge) at 
which time the voltage will be held constant at ~14.6v as the amps are reduced. 
 Once the amps lower to ~2amps the regulator shifts to float mode and lowers 
the voltage to ~13.3v and holds it indefinitely.
As an example lets say that you are using a 100 amp alternator and regulator to 
charge a 100AHr battery bank that has been discharged to 50% capacity.  Isn't 
it likely that the charge current will ramp to 100 amps?  Or at least greater 
than 25 amps?  What other regulator function would prevent this from happening? 
 I suppose battery temperature could input to the alternator so as to reduce 
charge current.  Though, I'm not sure that battery temperature responds quickly 
enough to prevent early over current damage, only overcurrent damage as a 
result of longer term charging current which has been applied long enough to 
raise temperature to the threshold.
Josh 

On Oct 16, 2017 3:01 PM, "Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List" 
 wrote:








Wrecking batteries with a big alternator is why you need a good regulator. If 
you are counting on the alternator itself to just be unable to do any damage 
because
 it can’t, you are taking a big risk or and have a very suboptimal charging 
setup.
For an extreme example, given a decent regulator, a 1000 amp alternator should 
do no harm and you can very much destroy batteries with a 35 amp alternator.
 I once worked on a boat whose genset had a 35 amp alternator set to 16 volts. 
The owner was buying several batteries a year and didn’t know why.
 
Joe
Coquina
 
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com]
On Behalf Of Josh Muckley via CnC-List

Sent: Monday, October 16, 2017 2:50 PM

To: C List 

Cc: Josh Muckley 

Subject: Re: Stus-List New Engine, now what size alternator
 

Not only will they not absorb the charge quickly enough, exceeding the charge 
rate will boil the batteries more than staying within the charging guidelines.  
An alternator that is too big for the bank will seriously risk damaging the 
batteries.

 


Larger alternators under full load will also strain the v-belt.  Additional 
tention will need to be applied to prevent the belt from slipping.  The 
additional tension puts additional side loads on the crankshaft end bearing.  


 


Lets also remember that full output is only achieved under full RPM.  Many 
people enjoy the idea of idling along or running the engine for a few hours in 
neutral.  Not only does this not achieve the full rated output of the 
alternator but
 it can also coke up the exhaust elbow and glaze the cylinders.  Diesel engines 
should be run at 80% as often as possible and for as long as possible.

 


Josh 




 

On Oct 16, 2017 2:19 PM, "Joel Aronson via CnC-List"  
wrote:


With a small battery 

Re: Stus-List C build files

[coltrek via CnC-List]

The Marine Museum of the Great Lakes has not been doing too good of late. The 
last newsletter I got from them talked about being booted out of their 
quarters, and I don't know if they have found another place to move to. That is 
another great resource that may be lost.


Regards,
Bill Coleman  C 39

 Original message 
From: bushmark4--- via CnC-List  
Date: 10/14/17  22:59  (GMT-05:00) 
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Cc: bushma...@aol.com 
Subject: Re: Stus-List C build files 


 I have purchased the build file for two prior C, and When I purchased my 37 
in 2014, I called south shore to inquire about purchasing the build file: I was 
told by south Shore that all of the files had been tossed because they "didn't 
want to mess with them anymore"...: I will not do business with them because of 
their senseless and selfish trashing of such and valuable resource; 



 





Richard


s/v Bushmark4: C 37 CB; Ohio River, Mile 584.4:

Richard N. Bush 

2950 Breckenridge Lane, Suite Nine

Louisville, Kentucky 40220-1462 

502-584-7255


 



 



-Original Message-

From: Ken Heaton via CnC-List 

To: cnc-list 

Cc: Ken Heaton 

Sent: Sat, Oct 14, 2017 7:55 pm

Subject: Re: Stus-List C build files









South Shore Yachts had the build files. I bought mine there in 2010.  As Joe B. 
said and I also understand, the storage fees were higher than the return 
investment. They threatened to toss the remaining files in the trash a few 
years ago.  I assume they did, you could ask.






The Marine Museum of the Great Lakes in Kingston, Ontario has the archives of 
other construction documents.  I purchased pdf's of my boat construction 
drawings from them by email in 2012 or so.




Ken H.







On 14 October 2017 at 20:11, Joseph Bognar via CnC-List  
wrote:


South Shore Yachts had the files . The storage fees were higher than the return 
investment . I think he tossed the remaining files in the trash a few years ago 
. You can try to contact them and ask 




Sent from Joe Bognar









On Oct 14, 2017, at 6:22 PM, Ted Drossos via CnC-List  
wrote:





I don't recall who has the library of remaining C build files and other 
construction documents. I know it's not South Shore Yacht but can't remember 
who it is. I'm looking for information about a custom 44. Can anyone provide 
contact information? Thanks








Ted Drossos



C 110 Lady in Red 



Long Island, NY





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Re: Stus-List 1983 c 40 std rig spreaders

[coltrek via CnC-List]

If there is enough meat left on them, you might be able to just build up what's 
missing with filler aluminum weld. Otherwise, just cut them off and weld some 
more aluminum on, either 5000 series marine-grade, or 6061. You should be able 
to whittle it back into shape, aluminum isn't that much harder to work with 
than wood.


Regards,
Bill Coleman  C 39

 Original message 
From: PETE via CnC-List  
Date: 10/11/17  12:51  (GMT-05:00) 
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Cc: PETE  
Subject: Stus-List 1983 c 40 std rig spreaders 

Hello all
Just had rig pulled  and lower spreader tips are severely corroded  upon 
removal by yard   there are chunks missing   
my  rigger has not looked at them yet
My questions are:1.  can they be re-tipped2.  does anyone know where they can 
purchased if replacement needed
thanks
PETERPortland, meGoonie Island  1983 aft cabin


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Re: Stus-List opinions about cabin table and C 30-2 vs Tartan 31

[coltrek via CnC-List]

Haha, nice try counselor. I think the rule  reads, whatever came with a boat,  
stock. You did, however, remove a lot of water ballast that came with the 
boat... okay, that didn't come with the  boat. 


Regards,
Bill Coleman  C 39

 Original message 
From: "Matthew L. Wolford via CnC-List" <cnc-list@cnc-list.com> 
Date: 10/11/17  21:33  (GMT-05:00) 
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Cc: "Matthew L. Wolford" <wolf...@erie.net> 
Subject: Re: Stus-List opinions about cabin table and C 30-2 vs Tartan 31 




My table hasn’t been on board since I bought the boat.  I guess I’m 
grandfathered.  You, on the other hand...


 

From: coltrek via CnC-List 
Sent: Wednesday, October 11, 2017 8:24 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Cc: coltrek 
Subject: Re: Stus-List opinions about cabin table and C 30-2 
vs Tartan 31
 

Mine too -
I guess we can't protest each other over removing weight for our boats, can 
we!.

 
Bill Coleman
C 39

 Original message 
From: 
"Matthew L. Wolford via CnC-List" <cnc-list@cnc-list.com> 
Date: 
10/11/17 14:02 (GMT-05:00) 
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Cc: "Matthew L. 
Wolford" <wolf...@erie.net> 
Subject: Re: Stus-List opinions about 
cabin table and C 30-2 vs Tartan 31 




I’ll add one more perspective.  I have a beautiful teak table sitting 
in my basement.  The cabin is much roomier without it, and no one seems to 
miss it.
 
Again, it’s all about how you use the boat.


 

From: Hoyt, Mike via CnC-List 
Sent: Wednesday, October 11, 2017 1:52 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Cc: Hoyt, Mike 
Subject: Re: Stus-List opinions about cabin table and C 30-2 
vs Tartan 31
 


Hi 
Lisle and also others
I 
think fixed table or fold up table has a lot to do with how you intend to use 
the boat.  We have raced on a C 115 which had the fixed table.  
Very nice layout when spending time below but when racing the fixed table makes 
packing a spinnaker more arduous.
Our 
current boat has a fold up to bulkhead table as did our Niagara 26 (most 
Niagaras had a dinette).  When we are cruising inshore we put the table 
down and leave the stbd side leaf folded down.  This is in fact very 
similar to a fixed table with the port leaf up and stbd leaf down.  Room to 
get by but also more room to put snacks and other items.  Really I do not 
think it matters all that much which you have
The 
BIG DIFFERENCE I see between the Tartan and C is the aft cabin vs a 
quarterberth.  When our girls were small we lived aboard our Niagara 26 
most weekends in the summer.  They were 6 and 8 when we started and we did 
this for several years.  Initially they would sleep in the vee berth which 
left the rest of the boat free for us and guests once they were asleep.  
Once they got older they wanted their own bunks and insisted on sleeping on the 
settees which was less convenient all round.  With a two cabin layout you 
have a LOT MORE bedroom options for your children and can keep the main cabin 
free for a common area.  I think in many ways the 30-2 C affords more 
flexibility for staying overnight with small children than a boat with an open 
quarterberth.  The downside is that the vee berth and quarterberth on the 
C_C 30-2 will likely be more cramped than the vee berth on the 
Tartan.
Our 
first boat (C designed Paceship P23) had a dinette.  It was fun for 
the two girls who were 5 and 7 at the time because it fit them (and no one 
else).  A big pain with that setup when having 4 aboard was it had to be 
folded down at night to be a bed and up in the day to give a useful 
surface.
These are just some thoughts I wanted to share about 
spending time aboard with small children for the two layouts you had 
mentioned
Mike
Persistence
1987 Frers 
33
Halifax, 
NS


On Oct 11, 2017, at 6:09 AM, 
Lisle Kingery, PhD <lisle.king...@gmail.com> 
wrote:

  
  
  
  
  Thanks for all the helpful 
  replies on cabin table options. I've pretty much narrowed my boat choices 
down 
  to either a C 30MKii or a Tartan 31 at this point. The Tartan's interior 
  appears more open with the folding table mounted on the bulkhead vs. the 
fixed 
  table on the C I will mainly be day-sailing and hanging out on the dock 
  with a few overnights so I'm thinking the more open cabin might work better 
  with the kids. comparison pics link below.
  
   
  
   
  
   
  
  https://drive.google.com/open?id=0B5w1TuAY4gTRam1qNlBuWExhSW8
   
   
  Thanks,
   
  Lisle

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coming in for the year 2018 and have gone up again.  October will be our 
fund raising month.  Please consider sending a small contribution to help 
keep this list running.  Use PayPal to send contribution --   
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All contributions are greatly 
appreciated!



___

The bills have started 
coming in for the year 2018 and have gone up again.  October will be 

Re: Stus-List opinions about cabin table and C 30-2 vs Tartan 31

[coltrek via CnC-List]

Mine too -I guess we can't protest each other over removing weight for our 
boats, can we!.
Bill ColemanC 39

 Original message 
From: "Matthew L. Wolford via CnC-List"  
Date: 10/11/17  14:02  (GMT-05:00) 
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Cc: "Matthew L. Wolford"  
Subject: Re: Stus-List opinions about cabin table and C 30-2 vs Tartan 31 




I’ll add one more perspective.  I have a beautiful teak table sitting 
in my basement.  The cabin is much roomier without it, and no one seems to 
miss it.
 
Again, it’s all about how you use the boat.


 

From: Hoyt, Mike via CnC-List 
Sent: Wednesday, October 11, 2017 1:52 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Cc: Hoyt, Mike 
Subject: Re: Stus-List opinions about cabin table and C 30-2 
vs Tartan 31
 


Hi 
Lisle and also others
I 
think fixed table or fold up table has a lot to do with how you intend to use 
the boat.  We have raced on a C 115 which had the fixed table.  
Very nice layout when spending time below but when racing the fixed table makes 
packing a spinnaker more arduous.
Our 
current boat has a fold up to bulkhead table as did our Niagara 26 (most 
Niagaras had a dinette).  When we are cruising inshore we put the table 
down and leave the stbd side leaf folded down.  This is in fact very 
similar to a fixed table with the port leaf up and stbd leaf down.  Room to 
get by but also more room to put snacks and other items.  Really I do not 
think it matters all that much which you have
The 
BIG DIFFERENCE I see between the Tartan and C is the aft cabin vs a 
quarterberth.  When our girls were small we lived aboard our Niagara 26 
most weekends in the summer.  They were 6 and 8 when we started and we did 
this for several years.  Initially they would sleep in the vee berth which 
left the rest of the boat free for us and guests once they were asleep.  
Once they got older they wanted their own bunks and insisted on sleeping on the 
settees which was less convenient all round.  With a two cabin layout you 
have a LOT MORE bedroom options for your children and can keep the main cabin 
free for a common area.  I think in many ways the 30-2 C affords more 
flexibility for staying overnight with small children than a boat with an open 
quarterberth.  The downside is that the vee berth and quarterberth on the 
C_C 30-2 will likely be more cramped than the vee berth on the 
Tartan.
Our 
first boat (C designed Paceship P23) had a dinette.  It was fun for 
the two girls who were 5 and 7 at the time because it fit them (and no one 
else).  A big pain with that setup when having 4 aboard was it had to be 
folded down at night to be a bed and up in the day to give a useful 
surface.
These are just some thoughts I wanted to share about 
spending time aboard with small children for the two layouts you had 
mentioned
Mike
Persistence
1987 Frers 
33
Halifax, 
NS


On Oct 11, 2017, at 6:09 AM, 
Lisle Kingery, PhD  
wrote:

  
  
  
  
  Thanks for all the helpful 
  replies on cabin table options. I've pretty much narrowed my boat choices 
down 
  to either a C 30MKii or a Tartan 31 at this point. The Tartan's interior 
  appears more open with the folding table mounted on the bulkhead vs. the 
fixed 
  table on the C I will mainly be day-sailing and hanging out on the dock 
  with a few overnights so I'm thinking the more open cabin might work better 
  with the kids. comparison pics link below.
  
   
  
   
  
   
  
  https://drive.google.com/open?id=0B5w1TuAY4gTRam1qNlBuWExhSW8
   
   
  Thanks,
   
  Lisle


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coming in for the year 2018 and have gone up again.  October will be our 
fund raising month.  Please consider sending a small contribution to help 
keep this list running.  Use PayPal to send contribution --   
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All contributions are greatly 
appreciated!
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October will be our fund raising month.  Please consider sending a small 
contribution to help keep this list running.  Use PayPal to send contribution 
--   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

All contributions are greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List Fresh water plumbing winterizing

[coltrek via CnC-List]

Me too. A cute little crapsman Shop-Vac that lives invisably under my chart 
table. Blows the lines out, sucks to initiate a prime,  - and even does some 
vacuuming on occasion. Not something that a hard core racer would have on board 
all the time,  but I don't sweat the small stuff!


Regards,
Bill Coleman C 39

 Original message 
From: Josh Muckley via CnC-List  
Date: 10/9/17  17:12  (GMT-05:00) 
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Cc: Josh Muckley  
Subject: Re: Stus-List Fresh water plumbing winterizing 

Instead of an air compressor I use a shop vac set on blow instead of suck.  I 
have fewer fears of over pressuring the system and a small 1 gallon shop vac is 
great for around the boat anyway.
Josh Muckley

S/V Sea Hawk

1989 C 37+

Solomons, MD

On Mon, Oct 9, 2017, 3:32 PM Tom Lynch via CnC-List  
wrote:
Marek,
Thank you for your very detailed procedure.   
What type and size of air compressor what you recommend for this job?
On Mon, Oct 9, 2017 at 2:37 PM Marek Dziedzic via CnC-List 
 wrote:








Tom,
 
This is how I do it:
 
1.  drain water from the fresh water tank (does not need to be completely empty)
2. drain water from the water heater
3. highly advisable - install a water heater by-pass (multiple models available 
from RV supply; but I strongly suggest getting one with
TWO valves 
(https://www.amazon.ca/Valterra-P23503LFVP-Water-Heater-Pass/dp/B00HSO57LS/ref=sr_1_2?s=automotive=UTF8=1507576917=1-2=water+heater+bypass)

4.  disconnect the system from the pump (above the pump)
5. - purge any remnants of water from the system using compressed air (for that 
you may need an adapter that can be purchased from any RV place or online (e.g.:
https://www.amazon.ca/Camco-36143-Brass-Quick-Connect/dp/B002XL2IEA) - you may 
need to MacGyver an adapter using the above and various length of hose, nipples 
etc.).
6. when you do it, close all faucets and then open one at a time (do it for 
each faucet on cold and hot wa___

The bills have started coming in for the year 2018 and have gone up again.  
October will be our fund raising month.  Please consider sending a small 
contribution to help keep this list running.  Use PayPal to send contribution 
--   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

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Re: Stus-List Not C & C buy kinda related...

[coltrek via CnC-List]

I would have to agree also. Starboard does not have all that much structural 
strength


Regards,
BillC 39

 Original message 
From: Joel Aronson via CnC-List  
Date: 9/27/17  09:44  (GMT-05:00) 
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Cc: Joel Aronson  
Subject: Re: Stus-List Not C & C buy kinda related... 

David,
I do not think starboard will handle a load if you actually try to sail with 
the board down.  In all likelihood it will snap off.
Joel
On Wed, Sep 27, 2017 at 9:29 AM, David via CnC-List  
wrote:





I have acquired a very tired Dyer Dow sailing dinghy.   Rebuilding the while 
thing. In replacing center board it seems 1/4"starboard would be fine for its 
1x3 dimensikns.   3/8 is too heavy .    



Any experience with this size of starboard in this application?



Thanks in advance.



1981 40-2










Sent from my Verizon 4G LTE smartphone




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make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
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-- 
Joel 
301 541 8551

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Re: Stus-List Hatch replacement experiences.

[coltrek via CnC-List]

I used stainless steel helicoils when reattaching the hood over the 
companionway. I think I put a little vaseline on the machine screws, and set 
them and thickened epoxy. Works fabulous. I did my grab rails with those little 
wood insert things that you referenced, which also worked well in the wood


Regards,
Bill ColemanC 39

 Original message 
From: Bruce Whitmore via CnC-List  
Date: 9/27/17  09:34  (GMT-05:00) 
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Cc: Bruce Whitmore  
Subject: Re: Stus-List Hatch replacement experiences. 

Hello all,
I am thinking about a number of similar attachments where I'd really like a 
machine screw attachment instead of a wood screw type (which in my opinion 
tears up fiberglass and/or whatever you're screwing it into).  This way one can 
remove the screw multiple times.  

So, I came across the idea of a threaded insert like this:  
https://www.amazon.com/Z-Threaded-400-3-CR-Stainless-Internal/dp/B002WC8TS4/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8=1506518994=8-3=stainless+steel+threaded+inserts
If one overdrilled the hole, filled it with thickened epoxy, and put in a 
threaded insert, wouldn't that do double duty as far as preventing future core 
damage while allowing hatches & such to be removed at will for rebedding in the 
future?
Curious as to how this approach would be lacking, Bruce Whitmore

(847) 404-5092 (mobile)
bwhitm...@sbcglobal.net


   From: Dennis C. via CnC-List 
 To: CnClist  
Cc: Dennis C. 
 Sent: Tuesday, September 26, 2017 5:50 PM
 Subject: Re: Stus-List Hatch replacement experiences.
   
Dave,
I haven't done exactly what you describe but have done similar work.  If it was 
me, I'd fill the old holes with thickened epoxy and go with the #12 fasteners.
You didn't say if the new bolt pattern completely or partially overlaid the A 
hatch.  If it matches, overbore and fill.
In fact, if you overbored and filled regardless you'd probably end up with a 
strong bond.  My thinking is that the deck is only 1/4-3/8 inch or so.  So the 
fastener is only grabbing that much.  If you overbore carefully down to the top 
of the headliner and fill with thickened epoxy, you'll have a plug that is 
thicker than the original deck.  More material for the fastener to grab.  
Measure the depth of the hole before you fill so you'll have a good idea of 
what length fastener to use.
Dennis C.Touche' 35-1 #83Mandeville, LA
On Tue, Sep 26, 2017 at 4:17 PM, Dave Godwin via CnC-List 
 wrote:
So I’m crowd-sourcing this question that I have. Always good ideas and 
experiences here.
I purchased a Lewmar Ocean Hatch 60 (shout-out to Fred Street) last year and am 
now getting ready to install it as a replacement for the Atkins-Hoyle hatch 
that I buggered up removing it prior to painting the decks. The original hatch 
used what are I believe (threw away all the originals like a dope…) #14 
stainless steel sheet metal screws screwed into the deck. No through-bolting. 
Twenty of those and butyl. Worked pretty well for 30-plus years
The new Lewmar specifies through-bolting the frame, using #12 machine screws 
and nuts. Let’s just say that I am really reluctant to run bolts through my 
overhead and having to stare at them when lying and looking upwards in the 
v-berth.
So, what have those who have replaced their original hatches done?
Best,
Dave Godwin
1982 C 37 - Ronin
Reedville - Chesapeake BayRonin’s Overdue Refit



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stumurray



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___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to 
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https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

All Contributions are greatly appreciated!


___

The bills have started coming in for the year 2018 and have gone up again.  
October will be our fund raising month.  Please consider sending a small 
contribution to help keep this list running.  Use PayPal to send contribution 
--   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

All contributions are greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List Balmar alternator

[coltrek via CnC-List]

I found one of the things that you pay a premium price for with Balmar is the 
tech support. They are great,  and worth every penny you *think* you overpaid .


Regards,
Bill Coleman C 39

 Original message 
From: svpegasus38 via CnC-List  
Date: 9/17/17  17:47  (GMT-05:00) 
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Cc: svpegasus38  
Subject: Stus-List Balmar alternator 

Anyone have experience with setting up a Balmar regulator? I have 600 amphour 
capacity in 6 agm batteries. I have figured out most of the settings, but am 
questioning how long to set both bulk, and float charge times. Currently bulk 
is set around 20 minutes and float is about an hour. Never fully charged the 
batteries. I haven't been able to find any information on this. I do have the 
Balmar manual. Is it guess work? If set to long will it destroy the batteries, 
I am getting ready to replace them and don't want to hurt the new ones.  Thanks

Sent from my T-Mobile 4G LTE DeviceDoug Mountjoy POYC Pegasus (for sale) Lf38 
Rebecca Leah LF39 ___

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make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

All Contributions are greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List Alternator Belts

[coltrek via CnC-List]

Ditto.  I I thought you got a high-output alternator, so you could charge up 
quickly with a shirt engine run


Regards,
Bill

 Original message 
From: Persuasion37 via CnC-List <cnc-list@cnc-list.com> 
Date: 9/12/17  21:26  (GMT-05:00) 
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Cc: Persuasion37 <persuasio...@gmail.com> 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Alternator Belts 

Wow!  What am I doing with a 120 amp alternator?

MikePERSUASION
C 37 K/CBLong Sault
On Sep 12, 2017, at 9:06 PM, Josh Muckley via CnC-List <cnc-list@cnc-list.com> 
wrote:

The alternator should be limited to the changing capabilities of the batteries. 
 Standard lead-acid would be 20 - 25% of capacity.  So a 100Ah battery should 
not be charged at a rate greater than 25 amps.  I have a 400 Ah bank and a 200 
Ah bank.  My 90amp Balmar alternator could exceed the rate for my smaller bank 
so an ACR, Echo-charge, or reducing the alternator output would be prudent.
I'm guessing that with 3 batteries you are probably close to 300Ah and 
somewhere around 60 to 75amps is the absolute most you would want coming from 
your alternator.  Leaving it set to 60% is probably just right.
Josh MuckleyS/V Sea Hawk1989 C 37+Solomons, MD 



On Mon, Sep 11, 2017, 10:36 PM coltrek via CnC-List <cnc-list@cnc-list.com> 
wrote:


That happened to me three times in a row this summer, on a 6 day cruise /race. 
I went through three belts. I had just installed Three brand new Deep Cycle 
batteries. I called the Balmar tech line, and the fellow there kind of walked 
me through setting the regulator down to only charging at 60% instead of 95%. I 
don't know why it started to do it in the first place, but I think that it 
might have had something to do with my heart interface 2000 acting up. Anyways, 
after the trip, I reset the heart 2000 back to factory defaults, and it started 
working properly again. I'm not sure if I should ramp my regulator back up to a 
higher charging level or not. One thing I did after that, is I bought a Balmar 
regulator temperature sensor. I think it cuts the charging back and the load if 
it gets too hot.

Bill ColemanC & C 39

 Original message 
From: ALAN BERGEN via CnC-List <cnc-list@cnc-list.com> 
Date: 9/11/17  22:15  (GMT-05:00) 
To: C <cnc-list@cnc-list.com> 
Cc: ALAN BERGEN <trya...@alumni.usc.edu> 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Deal on starter from Mastry 

I have to push the starter button several times before the starter turns the 
engine over.  I thought it was the starter button.  I'd better check that out 
before I get into trouble, and cant start the engine in an emergency.

Speaking of an emergency, after finishing a race, yesterday, we dropped the 
chute and started the engine, as we approached a railroad bridge.  We suddenly 
smelled smoke, and when we opened the cockpit hatch, smoke poured out.  After 
closer inspection of the engine, we discovered the alternator belt had been 
slipping,  It got hot, melted and got stuck to the engine pulley.  Luckily I 
had an extra belt on board, and a half hour later the repair was completed.

Alan Bergen
35 Mk III Thirsty
Rose City YC
Portland, OR

On Mon, Sep 11, 2017 at 6:53 PM, Dan Grant via CnC-List <cnc-list@cnc-list.com> 
wrote:
I have a universal M 18 that I have to push the starter A few times to get it 
going it always works but I fear someday it won't I looked into getting a new 
starter and my parts guy said congratulations you have the most expensive 
starter I've seen $1000  I can get a new Kubota starter which would work fine 
for about 100Very confusingI looked it up and there is something about running 
A stronger wire to the starterMaybe that's the problem?I'd like to know myself
Dan 1970 Cv hull 148 Ipswich 
Sent from my iPhone
On Sep 11, 2017, at 5:16 PM, Francois Rivard via CnC-List 
<cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

Mastry (www.mastry.com) does it again! I just replaced the starter on Take Five 
this weekend and got a sweet deal on a re-man Hitachi unit: US $128.44 + 
shipping. Mastry's the best! They always have the best price, they even beat 
eBay and the shipping is super fast. 
That's for a real deal Yanmar / Hitachi unit confirmed to fit using my 3gm30F's 
serial number. 
Also the starter comes with a 18 months warranty, way better than the Yanmar 6 
mos new parts warranty.  
The problem on my old starter?  I suspect there was a bad winding. It would 
sometimes take 2-3 button pushes to get it going. 
-Francois1990 34+ "Take Five"Lake Lanier, GA
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This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to 
make a contribution to offset our cos

Stus-List Alternator Belts

[coltrek via CnC-List]

That happened to me three times in a row this summer, on a 6 day cruise /race. 
I went through three belts. I had just installed Three brand new Deep Cycle 
batteries. I called the Balmar tech line, and the fellow there kind of walked 
me through setting the regulator down to only charging at 60% instead of 95%. I 
don't know why it started to do it in the first place, but I think that it 
might have had something to do with my heart interface 2000 acting up. Anyways, 
after the trip, I reset the heart 2000 back to factory defaults, and it started 
working properly again. I'm not sure if I should ramp my regulator back up to a 
higher charging level or not. One thing I did after that, is I bought a Balmar 
regulator temperature sensor. I think it cuts the charging back and the load if 
it gets too hot.

Bill ColemanC & C 39

 Original message 
From: ALAN BERGEN via CnC-List  
Date: 9/11/17  22:15  (GMT-05:00) 
To: C  
Cc: ALAN BERGEN  
Subject: Re: Stus-List Deal on starter from Mastry 

I have to push the starter button several times before the starter turns the 
engine over.  I thought it was the starter button.  I'd better check that out 
before I get into trouble, and cant start the engine in an emergency.

Speaking of an emergency, after finishing a race, yesterday, we dropped the 
chute and started the engine, as we approached a railroad bridge.  We suddenly 
smelled smoke, and when we opened the cockpit hatch, smoke poured out.  After 
closer inspection of the engine, we discovered the alternator belt had been 
slipping,  It got hot, melted and got stuck to the engine pulley.  Luckily I 
had an extra belt on board, and a half hour later the repair was completed.

Alan Bergen
35 Mk III Thirsty
Rose City YC
Portland, OR

On Mon, Sep 11, 2017 at 6:53 PM, Dan Grant via CnC-List  
wrote:
I have a universal M 18 that I have to push the starter A few times to get it 
going it always works but I fear someday it won't I looked into getting a new 
starter and my parts guy said congratulations you have the most expensive 
starter I've seen $1000  I can get a new Kubota starter which would work fine 
for about 100Very confusingI looked it up and there is something about running 
A stronger wire to the starterMaybe that's the problem?I'd like to know myself
Dan 1970 Cv hull 148 Ipswich 
Sent from my iPhone
On Sep 11, 2017, at 5:16 PM, Francois Rivard via CnC-List 
 wrote:

Mastry (www.mastry.com) does it again! I just replaced the starter on Take Five 
this weekend and got a sweet deal on a re-man Hitachi unit: US $128.44 + 
shipping. Mastry's the best! They always have the best price, they even beat 
eBay and the shipping is super fast. 
That's for a real deal Yanmar / Hitachi unit confirmed to fit using my 3gm30F's 
serial number. 
Also the starter comes with a 18 months warranty, way better than the Yanmar 6 
mos new parts warranty.  
The problem on my old starter?  I suspect there was a bad winding. It would 
sometimes take 2-3 button pushes to get it going. 
-Francois1990 34+ "Take Five"Lake Lanier, GA
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make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
https://urldefense.proofpoint.com/v2/url?u=https-3A__www.paypal.me_stumurray=DwICAg=clK7kQUTWtAVEOVIgvi0NU5BOUHhpN0H8p7CSfnc_gI=9w3G7Cf8YfQnrjmtuNxwDJYr3JMv9f1pAfgAJ9xXYQQ=SGrZZ_M01hbwr7besw5UXJCtj2WtZJtybSOomm4IR7w=9mItIVeR4b5RVurRijjLdqAqU4omH4HMZbMyHcVcpBs=



All Contributions are greatly appreciated!





-- 
Alan Bergen
35 Mk III Thirsty
Rose City YC
Portland, OR


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Re: Stus-List Question about awlgrip hull pain

[coltrek via CnC-List]

Rejex is the only polish I have seen that will get you through a canal or any 
brackish water without getting a mustache. It is nothing short of amazing.
http://www.rejex.com/rejex.html


Regards,
Bill Coleman  C 39

 Original message 
From: "Dennis C. via CnC-List"  
Date: 9/9/17  12:20  (GMT-05:00) 
To: CnClist  
Cc: "Dennis C."  
Subject: Re: Stus-List Question about awlgrip hull pain 

AwlCare is good stuff.  I use it on Touche's 4 year old Awlcraft 2000 paint 
about every 6 months.  It's very easy to apply and polish.  Can do entire boat 
in about 2-3 hours.  Nice shine when done.  Recommended.
Dennis C.Touche' 35-1 #83Mandeville, LA

On Sat, Sep 9, 2017 at 11:06 AM, Rick Brass via CnC-List 
 wrote: The instructions for maintaining the new paint 
job are to wash regularly with fresh water, and annually with a product sold by 
the paint company. (Awlcare?). The guy who did my paint job says the special 
stuff really isn’t necessary, though it might be a good idea after the paint 
job is a few years old.  

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Re: Stus-List Whereabouts???

[coltrek via CnC-List]

Pretty cool. Can I buy one of those?


Regards,
Bill Coleman  C 39

 Original message 
From: Edd Schillay via CnC-List  
Date: 9/5/17  09:14  (GMT-05:00) 
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Cc: Edd Schillay  
Subject: Re: Stus-List Whereabouts??? 

Yes Jerry. You should come! 
We will not fire any photon torpedoes at your Hunter -- promise. 
... though I can't make any promises to other non-C who show up. Here is 
an example of when the Enterprise was approached by a hostile Taylor 34 sloop:
https://youtu.be/_hja2puzxwk
Departing Norwalk in 45 minutes. Next stop: Milford Yacht Club. 

All the best,
Edd
---Edd M. SchillayCaptain of the Starship 
Enterprise C 37+ Sail Number: NCC-1701-BCity Island, New 
York---914.774.9767   | 
Mobile---Sent via iPhone 7iPhone. iTypos. 
iApologize

On Sep 5, 2017, at 8:54 AM, Robert Gallagher via CnC-List 
 wrote:

Jerry,Come to the Rendezvous. Bring the Hunter. It will be fun. We can marvel 
at the amenities:).  This is more about people than boats. Ama and I would love 
to see you and Janet. 
Damn the torpedoes, full steam ahead!
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Re: Stus-List Whereabouts???

[coltrek via CnC-List]

Isn't Harvey going to be bringing a bunch of snot over that way in the next few 
days? I know the bullseye is going to be sitting right over Erie Sunday late 
afternoon. 


Regards,
Bill Coleman C 39, Erie 

 Original message 
From: Andrew Burton via CnC-List  
Date: 9/1/17  14:59  (GMT-07:00) 
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Cc: Andrew Burton  
Subject: Re: Stus-List Whereabouts??? 

Sitting in Onset waiting for breeze to drop, than on to Portland or Boothbay 
area for a week then work back to Mattapoisett slowly.
AndyC 40Peregrine

Andrew Burton61 W NarragansettNewport, RI USA    02840
http://sites.google.com/site/andrewburtonyachtservices/+401 965-5260
On Sep 1, 2017, at 14:55, Danny Haughey via CnC-List  
wrote:

Tentative menemsha to vineyard haven to cuttyhunk then back to mattapoisettOr 
something like that. 


Sent from my T-Mobile 4G LTE Device
 Original message From: David via CnC-List 
 Date: 9/1/17  2:34 PM  (GMT-05:00) To: CNC CNC 
 Cc: David  Subject: Re: Stus-List 
Whereabouts??? 

Edgartown to Block island to Shelter Island to Greenport to Newport hence home 
to Marion, MA



As long as the cruising gods allow me this year.  



C & C 40-2
Corsair.   










Sent from my Verizon 4G LTE smartphone





 Original message 

From: Frederick G Street via CnC-List  

Date: 9/1/17 12:09 PM (GMT-05:00) 

To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 

Cc: Frederick G Street  

Subject: Re: Stus-List Whereabouts??? 



 Stella and Wal are still in Mexico, AFAIK…



— Fred











Fred Street -- Minneapolis

S/V Oceanis (1979 C Landfall 38) -- Bayfield, WI












On Sep 1, 2017, at 11:04 AM, Ronald B. Frerker via CnC-List 
 wrote:




Just wondering about where our wandering list members are currently?

Where are you Hank an where is Stella Blue?

Ron

Wild Cheri

C 30-1

STL (still)







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make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
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Re: Stus-List considering 1981 C 25

[coltrek via CnC-List]

My buddy and I co-own a star. When I showed it to him a couple of years ago, 
because he was a little interested in them just to do the beer can racing, I 
knew he wouldn't buy it unless I came in with him. I've only been on it once. 
And that was when he set it up. We both owned them 40 years ago. There is a big 
difference in your agility over 40 years!


Regards,
Bill

 Original message 
From: Violeta M Ivanova via CnC-List  
Date: 8/30/17  14:46  (GMT-07:00) 
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Cc: Violeta M Ivanova  
Subject: Re: Stus-List considering 1981 C 25 

Are we allowed to like boats other than C on this list? :)

The Star is a blast. 

Violeta

On Wed, Aug 30, 2017 at 4:33 PM, Ronald B. Frerker via CnC-List 
 wrote:
I love a Lightning or a Thistle, but can't take the pain any more.Maybe a 
Flying Scot.  They have that nice wheelchair ramp to help get up on the boat.  
And they're all the same; only one builder.RonWild CheriC 30-1STL


   From: Marek Dziedzic via CnC-List 
 To: C List  
Cc: Marek Dziedzic 
 Sent: Wednesday, August 30, 2017 3:08 PM
 Subject: Re: Stus-List considering 1981 C 25
   


 


Each year mid-August our Club organises a race in Bics for adults. It is fun, 
even watching this.



Marek 






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make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray



All Contributions are greatly appreciated!




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Re: Stus-List considering 1981 C 25

[coltrek via CnC-List]

Well okay, maybe I should requalified this. I have to agree with Ron on the 
thistle thing. I had a thistle once in a previous life, my brother and I and 
two girls were out on it, got three miles out in the lake, got a puff - my 
brother was driving, had the main cleated - long story short we went over, 
spent 45 minutes thinking that the boat was going to sink. It never did, but it 
was enough to freak him and this other girl out. Oddly enough, the boat had 
come with a little bit of polyurethane foam strapped underneath the brace by 
the Mast. But it was all rotting, and I had taken it out, and not replaced it 
yet . Obviously big mistake.After that, I decided I wanted a boat that would 
not flip over. So I got a Star. Then after the second year, got an accidental 
jibe, couldn't get the running back quick enough, watched the masked curl 
forward... After that, I decided I didn't want a boat with running backs. Got a 
Soling. Wonderful boat. Easy, fun, fast. 
Ken Read came to our club this spring and gave a wonderful talk. He kind of 
lambasted our sailing school for having Optis  and flying juniors, 470's. . . 
He said his daughter was in a sailing school, an Opti flipped over and sink 
underneath her. Freaked her out so bad that she still doesn't sail to this day. 
Obviously, he's very sad about that. I think he liked the Bics for the little 
kids, and thought that we should actually be getting into foiling just so that 
it would excite the older kids.
 My point was just that to actually learn to sail is best on a small boat. 
Preferably one that you can flip back over and drain out. Then you can learn 
how to sail a bigger boat and not get freaked out by things happening, as the 
forces increase exponentially.  Doesn't take much of a bad experience to turn 
somebody completely off of sailing.
Regards,
BillC 39 Erie

 Original message 
From: "Ronald B. Frerker via CnC-List" <cnc-list@cnc-list.com> 
Date: 8/29/17  18:05  (GMT-07:00) 
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Cc: "Ronald B. Frerker" <rbfrer...@yahoo.com> 
Subject: Re: Stus-List considering 1981 C 25 

I'm with Chuck on this.  A couple on the lake bought a Thistle (17ft open 
craft; very responsive and great in light air)  for their first boat and on the 
second time out, they dumped it.  Woman would never get back in that or any 
other boat.We learned in a Venture 21, a very cheap boat, but decent in light 
air and easy on/off the trailer.  Pretty forgiving.Then got a San Juan 24 and 
realized what a difference a good boat makes in boat feedback, docking etc.Note 
the sailing schools use J24s, Colgate 26s and Solings (same size range & 
style).Get the 25, it's a great size to get things figured out with.Then get 
the 30 since it's fantastic!RonWild CheriC 30-1STL


   From: Chuck Gilchrest via CnC-List <cnc-list@cnc-list.com>
 To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Cc: Chuck Gilchrest <csgilchr...@comcast.net>
 Sent: Tuesday, August 29, 2017 4:22 PM
 Subject: Re: Stus-List considering 1981 C 25
   
For what it is worth, As a first boat I owned a 13' FJ dinghy that taught me 
nothing about sailing a 4000lb keelboat.  Both that boat and my Laser made me 
realize that I like to sail and like to swim, just not at the same time.Our 
25mk1 allowed us overnight accommodations for a young family and served as a 
stable and fun performing boat which we owned for 14 years before trading up to 
our current Landfall 35.Chuck Gilchrest Padanaram, MA

Sent from my iPhone
On Aug 29, 2017, at 4:46 PM, coltrek via CnC-List <cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

If you REALLY want to learn how to sail  , buy a 13 - 14 footer and sail for a 
year or two. You will learn so much quicker on a small boat. Sorry if I'm 
raining on your parade!


Regards,
BillColemanC 39

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Re: Stus-List considering 1981 C 25

[coltrek via CnC-List]

If you REALLY want to learn how to sail  , buy a 13 - 14 footer and sail for a 
year or two. You will learn so much quicker on a small boat. Sorry if I'm 
raining on your parade!


Regards,
BillColemanC 39

 Original message 
From: "Lisle Kingery, PhD via CnC-List"  
Date: 8/29/17  15:12  (GMT-05:00) 
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Cc: "Lisle Kingery, PhD"  
Subject: Stus-List considering 1981 C 25 

Hi, still figuring out how to use/reply on the list so please bear with me
here is the add for the C 25 I'm considering:
https://fingerlakes.craigslist.org/boa/d/cc-25/6239385891.html

I went to take a quick look at it today and other than some slight star 
cracking on the deck around a few stanchions, the deck looks pretty good. I'll 
go over it carefully to check for soft spots.
I'm buying a boat to learn to sail, I'm a little concerned 27 would be a bit 
long for me, 25 looks about right. I have experience with 21 foot power boat.
Thanks,
Lisle
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Re: Stus-List Landfall for sale

[coltrek via CnC-List]

It means that if you grab it, you're going to get cut. Or, in the case of a 
stock, you buy it as it's going down, and then it goes bankrupt. I know all 
about it. I suppose in the case of a boat, it's one that is so far gone that 
you will invest more money and time than you will ever get out of it.


Regards,
Bill

 Original message 
From: RANDY via CnC-List  
Date: 8/15/17  18:54  (GMT-05:00) 
To: cnc-list  
Cc: RANDY  
Subject: Re: Stus-List Landfall for sale 

Joe what do you mean by "'falling knife' investment"?
Cheers,Randy
From: "Joe via CnC-List Della Barba" 
To: "cnc-list" 
Cc: "Joe Della Barba" 
Sent: Tuesday, August 15, 2017 9:01:36 AM
Subject: Re: Stus-List Landfall for sale

The boat was in horrible shape about 6-8 years ago and probably has not 
improved. I doubt you would do well even if you got her for free.Speaking of 
boat values, pretty much any older boat now is a “falling knife” investment. If 
anyone does still want old boats, no reason to get a half or 3/4s dead one.  
Joe Della BarbaCoquinaC 35 MK I   From: CnC-List 
[mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of detroito91 via CnC-List
 Sent: Tuesday, August 15, 2017 10:51 AM
 To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
 Cc: detroito91 
 Subject: Re: Stus-List Landfall for sale At $ 10,000.00. Something has got to 
be in real bad shape!  (I hope)Jim38 lfWashington ncSent from my T-Mobile 
4G LTE Device  Original message From: Frederick G Street via 
CnC-List  Date: 8/15/17 10:08 AM (GMT-05:00) To:  
cnc-list@cnc-list.com Cc: Frederick G Street  Subject: Re: 
Stus-List Landfall for sale  “Wow” is right — there go the property values in 
the neighborhood…   :^( — Fred
 Fred Street -- Minneapolis
 S/V Oceanis (1979 C Landfall 38) -- Bayfield, WI On Aug 15, 2017, at 8:40 
AM, Joel Aronson via CnC-List  wrote: WOW!  Don't know 
the boat, but could be a bargain. 
https://annapolis.craigslist.org/boa/d/cc-landfall/6264221307.html
 --Joel 
 301 541 8551
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Re: Stus-List Toilet Meanderings...

[coltrek via CnC-List]

Barnacle buster,  I think.  Practical Sailor just made recommendations this 
month 


Regards,
Bill

 Original message 
From: Neil Andersen via CnC-List  
Date: 8/5/17  19:56  (GMT-05:00) 
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com, CNC CNC  
Cc: Neil Andersen  
Subject: Re: Stus-List Toilet Meanderings... 






Vinegar




Neil Andersen

20691 Jamieson Rd

Rock Hall, MD 21661



From: CnC-List  on behalf of David via CnC-List 


Sent: Saturday, August 5, 2017 7:23:10 PM

To: CNC CNC

Cc: David

Subject: Stus-List Toilet Meanderings...
 


So our toilet is getting this lime like crust (sorry) remaining even after 
vigorous scrubing.   Bleach too aggresive.   Any suggestions?



Thanks in advance from very scenic Great Harbour (Woods Hole).  







Sent from my Verizon 4G LTE smartphone


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Re: Stus-List mast gate

[coltrek via CnC-List]

Well, you learn something new everyday.When I saw the heading, I thought some 
mast , or maybe Mass manufacturer was caught up in some horrible scandal.

Bill Coleman C 39

 Original message 
From: Sam Salter via CnC-List  
Date: 7/21/17  16:18  (GMT-05:00) 
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Cc: Sam Salter  
Subject: Re: Stus-List mast gate 

They sell them on line:http://www.mastgates.com/
- one example.

samC 26  Liquorice Ghost Lake Alberta 

On Jul 21, 2017, at 1:24 PM, William Walker via CnC-List 
 wrote:

Can anyone give me ideas how to pattern a mast gate so I could get someone to 
machine from aluminum..Tired of feeding without a mast gate..

Bill Walker 

CnC 36

Pentwater, Mi 
Sent from AOL Mobile Mail
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Re: Stus-List LO300

[coltrek via CnC-List]

OMG.OK, I won't complain about our Mayflies, or Midges again!




Bill ColemanC 39

 Original message 
From: Michael Brown via CnC-List  
Date: 7/21/17  12:50  (GMT-05:00) 
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Cc: Michael Brown  
Subject: Re: Stus-List LO300 

Has lots of help, thousands at least.

http://www.gamonyachting.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/04/GAMBloodsuckers.pdf

Windburn did double handed flying sails but I ended up awake for the race. At 
times
sections of the deck, sails or lifesling cover was obscured. We used buckets to 
wash down
and clear the cockpit, if you kill one it attracts more for a feast. It clogged 
the scuppers
so had to use the brush handle to mush them up.

They bite right through clothes, switched to foulies and boots.

Mike

Date: Fri, 21 Jul 2017 10:50:42 -0400

From: coltrek 

   

Congratulations on that - even more impressed that somebodycan stay awake all 
that time!?



Regards,

Bill Coleman?C 39

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Re: Stus-List Voltages

[coltrek via CnC-List]

Congratulations on that - even more impressed that somebodycan stay awake all 
that time! 


Regards,
Bill Coleman C 39

 Original message 
From: Michael Brown via CnC-List  
Date: 7/21/17  09:52  (GMT-05:00) 
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Cc: Michael Brown  
Subject: Re: Stus-List Voltages 

We have a number of UPSes in our customer base we support. I have recycled
at least 60 AGM batteries this year and sometimes play with them to see if they
are good or can be recovered.

Even fairly flat batteries may recover. If they can be charged back up, and I 
use
a constant current power supply instead of a battery charger, I see how long the
charge takes. Having a 100 amp hour battery come to full charge after 10 hours
at 1 amp means it isn't chemically taking a charge.

After the battery has been charged, and that may take days, I put a light load 
on
it to remove a small amount of AH, say 10%. The battery is left to sit for a 
week
or so and then I measure the voltage. What I am looking for is one or more cells
that are self discharging. If the battery settles in at around 12+ volts there 
is
hope, but if it shows 10 ( or 8 ) then a cell has gone.

I can put the batteries back into a Smart UPS and do a run down load test,
basically the UPS switches to battery and runs it down to some voltage,
switches back to AC and then sends me a report. That will tell me how much
capacity the battery has in it.

A lot of the time one battery out of the set has gone, some UPSes have
10 batteries in series, some up to 14 in parallel and series. If the UPS is
only 2 - 3 years old I may find only one completely bad battery, and maybe
three that recover. They are not new, may have 80%+ of original capacity
but can be reused in a less critical application.

So charge them up, let them sit and check for around 12 volts. If that is
good do a run down test ( the old 12v camper bulbs are great for this )
and see what capacity is left.

Michael Brown
Windburn
C 30-1

PS: I finished the Lake Ontario 300 last weekend ( and Monday ). Finish times
ranged from 45 to 61 hours, a result of the wind dying on Monday. Windburn
took first in division, first in fleet and line honours on the Scotch Bonnet 
course.

These C keep going and going.




Date: Fri, 21 Jul 2017 13:11:30 +

From: "Della Barba, Joe" 




It is not absolutely 100% the batteries are done for. 99% maybe, but sometimes 
wet cells, especially traction batteries, can take a good equalizing charge and 
come back to life with some capacity left.

My old extra car had a short that would run the battery stone cold dead. It 
survived about 3 of these and still could be used as a start battery, but it 
had almost no reserve.

Joe

Coquina



From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of RANDY via 
CnC-List

Sent: Thursday, July 20, 2017 7:24 PM


Well, if I learned an expensive lesson, I'll just have to accept that.  I 
checked all the cells before putting the charger on them, and they were full.  
After charging they are still full (even though I heard the liquid bubbling 
i.e. creating and venting gas toward the end of the charging period).



The one battery I put back on the boat yesterday was able to start my A4 and 
run my electrical stuff no problem, just like normal before all this.  I'll 
take the other down to the boat tomorrow and measure its voltage with my 
multimeter- it will have been at rest, disconnected, for 24+ hours by then.  
But I know there is a difference between instantaneous voltage and amp-hour 
capacity.  These are deep-cycle batteries, and I cycled them very deeply :)



I'll just have to monitor the situation for the rest of the season and see how 
bad my mistakes are going to hurt :)



Cheers,

Randy



From: "Fred Hazzard via CnC-List" 
>

Sent: Thursday, July 20, 2017 3:27:38 PM



I can tell you from personal experience that AGMs won't servive either.  I had 
4 hooked in parallel  that I flattened to 4.5 v .  A painful experience. At the 
same time I lost my inverter charger.



Fred Hazzard

S/V Fury

C 44

Portland, Or



On Jul 20, 2017 12:34 PM, "Bill Bina - gmail via CnC-List" 
> wrote:





I'm sorry to be the bearer of bad news, but if those voltages  of 4.7 volts and 
5.7 volts were correct, they mean these batteries have been quite severely 
damaged and will never have anywhere near full capacity again. That is not a 
maybe. You can get many batteries like that to take a surface charge and appear 
okay with a voltage reading that looks somewhat normal. There is no muscle 
behind it. The charger is telling you they are 100% charged to their new  and 
very diminished capacity.  Some of the cells may also have run dry. This was 
not survivable for any flooded battery regardless of quality, or how it was 
treated otherwise.



Bill Bina

Re: Stus-List C 40 for sale

[coltrek via CnC-List]

There is a 40 here with a wing keel, maybe 5 - 6 foot draft. 


Regards,
Bill Coleman C 39, Erie

 Original message 
From: "Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List"  
Date: 5/30/17  16:43  (GMT-05:00) 
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Cc: "Della Barba, Joe"  
Subject: Re: Stus-List C 40 for sale 



Sadly a 7 or 8 foot draft boat is very hard to sell to a non-racer here. Too 
many places you can never go – including my slip!
 
Joe
Coquina

C 35 MK I
 
 


From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com]
On Behalf Of Bruno Lachance via CnC-List

Sent: Tuesday, May 30, 2017 4:33 PM

To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com

Cc: Bruno Lachance 

Subject: Re: Stus-List C 40 for sale


 

I saw a few C with draft réductions around here. Mars metal, who i 
understand produced the keels for most of our boats, have the templates, datas 
and know how to produce a bulb in two sections
 that you can bolt to the reduced keel and fair. A kind of DIY kit. You can cut 
the keel with a chainsawand they will calculate the weight of the bulb to 
compensate for the loss. they should also advise you if you are going too far, 
from what i heard they have
 a good knowledge of our boats.
 
https://marskeel.com/











MarsKeel |Production
 Lead Keels for the Sailboat Industry


marskeel.com


For 35 years Mars Keel Technology has united its passion for sailing & vast 
technical experience to supply quality
 keels to builders & sailors worldwide






The shipping will be expensive!
 
Bruno Lachance
Bécassine, 1987 33 mkII (will splash this thuesday!)

New-Richmond, Qc
 





De : CnC-List 
 de la part de Danny Haughey via CnC-List 

Envoyé : 30 mai 2017 16:11

À : cnc-list@cnc-list.com

Cc : Danny Haughey

Objet : Re: Stus-List C 40 for sale


 



The yard I was at in westport did it on a C 41 I looked at
 

On 5/30/2017 4:10 PM, Andrew Burton via CnC-List wrote:



The guy with the 40 for sale in the Rio Dulce did it...with success he says. 


Andy


C 40


Peregrine



Andrew Burton 

61 West Narragansett Ave


Newport, RI 


USA 02840


 


+401 965 5260


 





On May 30, 2017, at 15:59, Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List 
 wrote:




Anyone know how hard it is to saw a foot or two off the keel?
6 feet is the absolute max for me.
 
Joe
Coquina
 
From: CnC-List
 [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com]
On Behalf Of Joel Aronson via CnC-List

Sent: Tuesday, May 30, 2017 11:24 AM

To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com

Cc: Joel Aronson 

Subject: Stus-List C 40 for sale
 

Saw this listing:

 


https://annapolis.craigslist.org/boa/6153505462.html


 


Don't know the boat.



 

--


Joel


301 541 8551








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___
 
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All Contributions are greatly appreciated!

 




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Re: Stus-List C 39 project being trashed

[coltrek via CnC-List]

Ditto.I'm crying in my beer.

Bill ColemanC 39, Erie PA

 Original message 
From: Craig Cochran via CnC-List  
Date: 5/23/17  15:31  (GMT-05:00) 
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Cc: Craig Cochran  
Subject: Re: Stus-List C 39 project being trashed 


As a 39 owner, that's painfull 



 Original message 

From: Josh Muckley via CnC-List  

Date: 23/05/2017 16:59 (GMT+00:00) 

To: C List  

Cc: Josh Muckley  

Subject: Stus-List C 39 project being trashed 





Somebody looking for a cheap project boat?  Kills me to see a boat get 
destroyed.



https://www.facebook.com/groups/sailboatsforsale/permalink/1536653003119915/?sale_post_id=1536653003119915



Josh Muckley
S/V Sea Hawk
1989 C 37+
Solomons, MD 


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Re: Stus-List Prop question

[coltrek via CnC-List]

Try it using a wheel puller, if that doesn't work, tighten it up as much as you 
can, and hammer on the end of the (wheel puller) screw.


Regards,
Bill

 Original message 
From: "Matthew L. Wolford via CnC-List"  
Date: 5/7/17  14:08  (GMT-05:00) 
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Cc: "Matthew L. Wolford"  
Subject: Stus-List Prop question 




Listers:
 
    I assume this has been covered before, but what is the 
best way to remove a 40-year old Martec folding prop from the shaft?  The 
blades are off and the inside of the hub exposed, but the hub is not 
budging.  Please advise.  Thanks.
 
 
Matthew L. 
Wolford 
638 West Sixth Street 
Erie, PA 16507 
(814) 459-9600 (Office) 

(814) 459-9661 (Fax) 
(814) 392-5599 (Cell) 

The information 
contained in this e-mail note and any attachments is intended for the personal 
and confidential use of the designated recipient(s). This communication may be 
an attorney-client communication, attorney work product, or otherwise 
privileged, confidential, or protected from disclosure under applicable law. If 
you are not the intended recipient or an authorized agent, you are hereby 
notified that you have received this communication in error, and that any 
review, dissemination, distribution, copying of, use of, or reliance upon this 
communication is prohibited. If you believe this communication was sent to you 
in error, do not read it. Please reply to the sender that you received the note 
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Re: Stus-List CC 38 Bilge Pump

[coltrek via CnC-List]

They say that the best pump ever invented is two terrified men and a bucket !


Regards,
Bill ColemanC 39

 Original message 
From: "Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List"  
Date: 4/3/17  10:26  (GMT-05:00) 
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Cc: "Della Barba, Joe"  
Subject: Re: Stus-List CC 38 Bilge Pump 

IMHO:
There are two kinds of bilge pumps.
1 - routine: These get the standard daily leaks. Capacity is not important, 
being able to be mounted low down and being reliable is. For a modern 
fiberglass boat, you have an issue if even the smallest pump is running all the 
time at the dock or underway in calm weather. None of my pumps are automatic 
and I have no issue with water over a 2-3 week period.
2 - emergency - Anything but the very largest pumps you can fit are not going 
to keep up with even one thru-hull and none of them will sit low enough to be 
good for routine use. The one time a plumbing malfunction* had water almost to 
the bunks at 0100 I can tell you my big hand pump was doing more than BOTH of 
my 500 GPH electrical pumps. Motivation is key here :) Also bought a float for 
a bilge alarm after that ;)

Joe
Coquina
C 35 MK I


* When installing a new engine, I managed to hit the loop I had in a pump 
outlet and move it from a couple inches above the static water line to an inch 
lower. It made a dandy siphon with everyone and all the gear aboard when it did 
not unloaded at the dock. 
!
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Re: Stus-List Signet Depth Sounder Location on a C Landfall 38

[coltrek via CnC-List]

I would bet CNC put it in Oilwell, right in front of the keel. It may be off to 
the side a bit. Mine was underneath the V Berth on cernterline. 


Regards,
Bill Coleman C 39

 Original message 
From: Peter via CnC-List  
Date: 3/27/17  20:30  (GMT-05:00) 
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Cc: schu...@gmail.com 
Subject: Stus-List Signet Depth Sounder Location on a C Landfall 38 

I just hauled my boat out and had the bottom painted.  I asked the person 
providing the service to make sure that the Transducer was clear of paint and 
also if they could tell me the location.  The painter could not locate the 
transducer.  For the life of me I have not been able to find out where the 
transducer is located.  It is a Signet brand depth sounder and it came that way 
installed by the factory (I assume).  Maybe its not a through the hull 
transducer I don’t know. If anyone has a similar set up or knows the location 
please let me email me.  The depth sounder works intermittently and I would 
like to find out why.  I have not followed the wiring (grey) because there are 
a number of grey wires bundled together and tied with plastic ties.  I may have 
to do this sooner or later. Thank youPeter Sent from Mail for Windows 10 ___

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Re: Stus-List Mast Step Pitch & Helm Balance

[coltrek via CnC-List]

Mine called for one degree of Rake. Which at the top of the Mast, equated to 
around 11 inches off of vertical


Regards,
Bill ColemanC 39

 Original message 
From: "Matthew L. Wolford via CnC-List"  
Date: 3/25/17  10:08  (GMT-05:00) 
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Cc: "Matthew L. Wolford"  
Subject: Re: Stus-List Mast Step Pitch & Helm Balance 




I had a similar question about rake before making a Spartite plug for the 
partners.  Unless you talk to Rob Ball or someone involved with 
design/construction, it would be difficult to figure out what C’s 
intentions were (assuming that’s what you want).  I’m guessing that you’ve 
already given the matter more consideration than the construction crew.
 
In my case, I eye-balled other comparable vintage C to see generally 
if there was much rake.  There appeared to be a little, but not much.  
I then talked to a local sailmaker, and together we looked at C’s original 
drawing for my boat to see if it showed any rake, which it did (again not 
much).  From this, we concluded that the drawing likely reflected what 
C intended.  Using the drawing, I calculated the amount of rake and, 
because in my case the mast was standing, I adjusted it to the amount of rake 
shown in the drawing (using a bucket of water hung from a halyard).  Seems 
to have worked – the helm feels about right to me.
 
Based on my experience, I’d find an old drawing and assume it’s more or 
less what C intended.
 
Good luck.


 

From: RANDY via CnC-List 
Sent: Saturday, March 25, 2017 3:11 AM
To: cnc-list 
Cc: RANDY 
Subject: Stus-List Mast Step Pitch & Helm 
Balance
 


Listers-
 
Seeking your input here.  I'm in the middle of the mast step rebuild 
project a la http://cncphotoalbum.com/doityourself/maststep/maststep.htm.  
Lots of pictures of the project at 
https://drive.google.com/open?id=0B-NqAxQ6JxFTSzRLbFo0NDl6U1E.
 
I'll be cutting new supports from laminated GPO-3 slabs Saturday night or 
Sunday morning.  Before installing the new supports, I have to decide on 
the elevation of the aft support.  Of course I took careful elevation 
measurements from the cabin sole before removing the original supports.  
But the question is, what was the original shape of the top of the aft 
support?
 
I believe the middle of Grenadine's aft support, under the mast step block, 
was compressed down from its original elevation due to a combination of 
weakness 
in the support and standing rigging tension (especially backstay).  Have a 
look at the pictures and you can clearly see what I mean, e.g. 
https://drive.google.com/open?id=0B-NqAxQ6JxFTLXZuXzd1T1pkR28.  This 
compression has the effect of pitching the mast step aft, thereby moving the 
masthead aft, thereby increasing weather helm (which I've definitely noticed 
under enough wind and sail - it was strong under full main and #2 genoa in 30 
kts, not surprisingly).
 
However I also believe that the original elevation of the aft support may 
have been carefully tuned for helm balance, prior to compression below the mast 
step block due to weak wood and standing rigging tension.
 
The reason this elevation question matters so much is because, using 
trigonometry, I can calculate the distance by which different elevations of the 
aft support will move the masthead forward or aft, which in turn will affect 
helm balance.  Each quarter inch of aft support elevation difference could 
move the masthead about three inches I believe.
 
The last picture 
(https://drive.google.com/open?id=0B-NqAxQ6JxFTU3hRNmZoMUU1MFk) in the Google 
Drive folder linked above shows the templates from which I'll cut the new 
supports, traced from the original supports removed from Grenadine's 
bilge.  I hypothesize that the dashed line I drew at the top of the aft 
support template may have been the aft support's original elevation.
 
I'm halfways tempted to split the difference and cut the new aft support to 
have that elevation.  Of course, I could be full of crap, because I tune 
the mast rake using the stays after all, which probably influences helm balance 
more than mast step pitch.  And of course I can control the sail selection 
and sail trim, which probably influence helm balance more than mast step 
pitch.  However, for a given sail selection close-hauled, with neither the 
backstay nor forestay over-tensioned, the mast step pitch would certainly 
influence the masthead position and therefore the combined center of effort of 
the sail plan.
 
What say ye?  Does anyone out there know if the top of the original 
aft mast step support on a 30-1 was flat all the way across, or did it come 
from 
the factory with a little elevation drop to tune helm balance?  I'll be 
committing an assumption about that to a GPO-3 slab with my jigsaw in the next 
day or two.
 
Thanks in advance,
Randy Stafford
S/V Grenadine
C 30-1 #7
Ken Caryl, CO


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Re: Stus-List Barient 22ST

[coltrek via CnC-List]

Thank you Steve, and Harry. I've got a couple pieces coming from Australia. Not 
particularly cheap, but, what are you going to do? It's kind of like buying 
replacement claws for your Raptor. There's not too many around.


Regards,
Bill

 Original message 
From: Steve Thomas via CnC-List  
Date: 3/23/17  18:14  (GMT-05:00) 
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Cc: Steve Thomas  
Subject: Re: Stus-List Barient 22ST 

Yes, there is company in Australia which supplies parts. They are the only game 
in town. I bought a couple of plastic jaws from them several years ago and they 
worked fine. Took a long time to get here, 6 or 7 weeks as I recall, but no 
problem otherwise.

http://www.arco-winches.com/products/spares

Steve Thomas
C
Merritt Island, FL

C MKIII
Port Stanley, ON

 Bill Coleman via CnC-List  wrote: 
I have a Barien 22 winch with plastic jaws, and the top one is cracked.
Does anyone know if there is a source for these replacement parts?
Thanks,
Bill Coleman
C 39 Erie, PA





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Re: Stus-List Removing Old Butyl Tape

[coltrek via CnC-List]

I was also very sad to realize that diesel fuel softens 5200. Basically ruins it


Regards,
BillC 39

 Original message 
From: Rick Taillieu via CnC-List  
Date: 3/23/17  20:30  (GMT-05:00) 
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Cc: Rick Taillieu  
Subject: Re: Stus-List Removing Old Butyl Tape 

McLube Sailcote melts butyl, it wipes off easily.Something to be careful of if 
you spray any deck blocks that have been bedded with butyl tape.  Rick 
TaillieuShearwater Yacht ClubHalifax, NS.   From: CnC-List 
[mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of RANDY via CnC-List
Sent: March-23-17 20:36
To: cnc-list
Cc: RANDY
Subject: Stus-List Removing Old Butyl Tape Listers- Any tips on solvents or 
techniques for removing old butyl tape used to bed deck hardware? Thanks,Randy 
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Re: Stus-List Stugeron equivalent (Cinnarizine) from Hong Kong

[coltrek via CnC-List]

Someone on this list also suggested buying at Canadadrugsonline . I did this, 
viola,  a week later  I have sturgeon  mailed from UK, where they realise that 
this is a good  motion sickness drug.
But, I will see if I can get my daughter to bring me some  mosion-6, from HK, 
thanks!
What a great resource this list is.
Regards,
Bill Coleman C 39

 Original message 
From: Dave S via CnC-List  
Date: 3/12/17  05:30  (GMT-05:00) 
To: C Stus List  
Cc: Dave S  
Subject: Stus-List Stugeron equivalent (Cinnarizine) from Hong Kong 

This has come up on the list before - Stugeron is a UK motion sickness med - 
not available in North America.  (or France, near as I can tell).   the active 
ingredient is cinnarizine reputed to be effective with out some of the side 
effects of dramamine.  (gravol)
For the record, I purchased some Mosion-6 (clever name) over the counter in 
Hong Kong last week - 25mg Cinnarizine.  
http://www.fortunepharm.com/eng/product/hongkong/6/0

Dave1985 33-ii 

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Re: Stus-List Exterior Teak Varnish Recommendation?

[coltrek via CnC-List]

Well,  I'm just jumping in here without knowing this whole thread,  and I don't 
want to cross Bill,  B/C I know that is like throwing raw meat in front of a 
Pit Bull - but- in 2005 when I brought my boat back to the shop for a refit, I 
was using a lot of PPG Concept.  Over the cabin paint, I applied a couple coats 
of PPG Strataclear, B/C they said it was the hardest clear coating they had. (I 
also put ground pearls into it,  which,  by the way looks fabulous) After I had 
done  the teak in cetol, I had some leftover Strataclear in the can, (no 
pearls) and I painted it on the teak around  the companionway as an experiment 
. Over the Cetol.  It still looks fantastic 12 years later. 
Bill Coleman C 39 Erie

 Original message 
From: BillBinaList via CnC-List  
Date: 3/2/17  17:14  (GMT-05:00) 
To: T power , cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Cc: BillBinaList  
Subject: Re: Stus-List Exterior Teak Varnish Recommendation? 


That stuff is not formulated for use on wood, or
over Cetol! Being a two-part urethane, it will also be a major
job to strip off when it fails. My thought is that it is just
asking for trouble. I looked up Chroma Clear. It is an
industrial finish that is only sold to professionals and
requires an advanced type of NIOSH respirator among other
precautions. People with any sort of respiratory issues or
asthma are warned not to get anywhere near it. Those are my
thoughts! :-)


  


On 3/2/2017 4:18 PM, T power wrote:



  
  
  
Any thoughts on this process.




https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mNz16sRdpFY=3=PLLD81Ey5nuIoof2Y9lL-sDWeorU3g7fpZ

  

  

  



  
INTEGRITY
  FINISHING INC, Boat teak restoration
  
www.youtube.com
  
SEATTLE WASHINGTON PAINTING COMPANY, INTEGRITY
FINISHING, INC. "NEAT, CLEAN & COMPLETE SINCE
1986" Your full service painting contractor. BOAT
TEAK REPAIR

  

  









  
Sent from Outlook

  
  
  From:
  CnC-List  on behalf of
  Bill Bina - gmail via CnC-List 

  Sent: Thursday, March 2, 2017 11:13:20 AM

  To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com

  Cc: Bill Bina - gmail

  Subject: Re: Stus-List Exterior Teak Varnish
  Recommendation?
 
  
  
Putting anything on top of
  Cetol sort of defeats its main advantage. Cetol breathes,
  which is beneficial to the wood, and maintenance is easy
  because a quick scrub with plain water and a 3M kitchen
  scrubby is all the prep work usually required to add a
  fresh coat or two when needed. The slight softness is a
  PLUS. If you top coat it, you lose all of that.and may as
  well just do labor intensive varnish without the Cetol.
Bill Bina




On 3/2/2017 9:46 AM, Chuck Saur via
  CnC-List wrote:



  Our boatyard manager (graduate of Great Lakes
School of Wooden Boatbuilding) told me Cetol should be
coated with at least 2 coats of Captain's Varnish (or
similar?).  Says Cetol finish by itself is too soft for his
liking.  Has worked great for me...


  

  

  


  


  
Chuck Saur


  

  

  

  



  



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Re: Stus-List New (old) C 35 Mk I - Water Ingress

[coltrek via CnC-List]

That may not work, because it comes down the inside of the mast! Go down to the 
boat when it's raining like hell, and take a flashlight and look at your mast 
and see if you don't see water running down through  there.   By the way, 
somebody on this list came up with a really great suggestion, strong magnets. I 
have a pair, and I put one in the bilge in the lowest point where I really 
wanted the garboard drain, but I didn't think I could drill through there. Then 
I went around down outside  with the other magnet and Son of a bitch if it 
didn't stick right where I wanted it!


Regards,
Bill

 Original message 
From: Thomas Delaney via CnC-List  
Date: 2/12/17  21:13  (GMT-05:00) 
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Cc: Thomas Delaney  
Subject: Re: Stus-List New (old) C 35 Mk I - Water Ingress 

Randy, Neil, Bill,
Thank you all for the advice. I've marked the hull with a washable marker and 
will check for water next weekend. The mast is in, and it hadn't crossed my 
mind that the water was coming through it. I'll add replacing the mast boot and 
installing a garboard drain to my list of projects.
Thanks again,Tom
---
Snow Goose
C 35 Mk I 
City Island, NY

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Re: Stus-List New (old) C 35 Mk I - Water Ingress

[coltrek via CnC-List]

It's coming down the mast .  Put a garboard drain in .  
(Now, don't tell me the mast is out!)


Regards,
BillC 39

 Original message 
From: Thomas Delaney via CnC-List  
Date: 2/12/17  10:27  (GMT-05:00) 
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Cc: Thomas Delaney  
Subject: Stus-List New (old) C 35 Mk I - Water Ingress 

Hello listers,

In December I finalized the purchase of my first keelboat, a C 35 Mk I, after 
receiving an extremely thorough and detailed list of items to survey from Joe 
Della Barba. Joe, thanks again for your help!

The previous owner of the boat was a local racing legend who ran a marina near 
Glen Island, NY. He had been giving me advice on readying the boat for her new 
life on a mooring after spending the last four decades in a slip adjacent to 
his houseboat. Unfortunately, he passed away last weekend.

One of the questions I had yet to broach was the accumulation of water in the 
bilge. The boat has been on the hard, shrinkwrapped, for three years. I've been 
pumping the bilge dry every two-four weeks, and it seems to be about 2-4 
gallons of water as measured by a big plastic bucket. I'm not sure where the 
water is coming from. Apart from the bilge, water is pooling in the 
forward-most storage compartment under the port settee. My first instinct is to 
have a friend on deck hold the screws on the toerails and stanchion bases while 
I slightly tighten the nuts below deck and see if the water ingress stops. Does 
that make sense? Is there a different, better course of action I should take at 
this time? Does anyone know offhand what size socket I'll need?

Thanks in advance,
Tom

---
Snow Goose
C 35 Mk I 
City Island, NY

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Re: Stus-List Mast Self-Climbers?

[coltrek via CnC-List]

I had a lot of trouble with regular stay- set, then I took the line out to the 
shop, tied one end to a bollard,  the other to a fork lift and stretched it so 
tight I could walk on it for an afternoon.  Worked great after that. 


Bill

div Original message /divdivFrom: Joel Aronson via 
CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com /divdivDate:10/16/2014  10:19 PM  
(GMT-05:00) /divdivTo: Josh Muckley muckl...@gmail.com, 
cnc-list@cnc-list.com /divdivSubject: Re: Stus-List Mast Self-Climbers? 
/divdiv
/divFwiw ATN was not at the Annapolis boat show this year. Always had a booth 
in the past. 
I've seen the climber used. The rope must be tight for it to work well. I let 
others do the climbing. 

Joel

On Thursday, October 16, 2014, Josh Muckley via CnC-List 
cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote:
Yeah Jack, ATN didn't do themselves any favors when then used the stretchy 
rope.  Too difficult to pull the rope tight enough.  If you get a chance to 
find some ascenders it would be easy to reuse everything you already have to 
make a top climber

A 4:1 block and tackle means that you have to use your arms to pull down 
40-50lbs, 75 to 100 times.  Not particularly hard but slow and tiring.  Using 
any ascender system relies on using you legs to simply squat your body weight 
30 to 40 times.  Easier than climbing 4 flights of stairs.  I estimated 1-2 
feet per pull or squat and a 50' mast.

Josh

On Oct 16, 2014 9:18 PM, Jack Brennan via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
wrote:
It’s worth wandering around the marina and testing a couple of systems before 
buying one.
 
Everyone seems to have a different preference, depending on your fear of 
heights, taste for adventure, physical condition, etc.
 
I inherited a Mast Mate and didn’t like the spongy feel of the ladder. I tried 
an ATN Mast Climber and didn’t like it much, either, probably because I wasn’t 
using a really taut, low-stretch line. Currently, I have a four-part system 
(two double blocks) with 200 feet of line that allows me to lift myself up if 
needed.
 
Of course, the best system is the one I use most often – a wife who thinks it’s 
kind of fun to get lifted up the mast.
 
Jack Brennan___
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Re: Stus-List Volvo ocean race game?

[coltrek via CnC-List]

Yes, it is one of the few races I can do without running aground or forgetting 
to change course. 


Wild Bill

div Original message /divdivFrom: Graham Collins via 
CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com /divdivDate:10/10/2014  9:34 PM  
(GMT-05:00) /divdivTo: cnc-list@cnc-list.com /divdivSubject: Stus-List 
Volvo ocean race game? /divdiv
/divAnyone doing the volvo ocean race game?  (Virtual regatta at 
http://www.virtualregatta.com/)

-- 
Graham Collins
Secret Plans
CC 35-III #11


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Re: Stus-List Rain inside mast?

[coltrek via CnC-List]

The bane of every keel stepped sailors existence. All the holes in the mast 
where the halyards exit and enter. And of course, the water runs down the 
halyards and builds up as it enters the holes. 

Wild Bill

div Original message /divdivFrom: Barbara Hickson Fellers 
via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com /divdivDate:09/15/2014  8:42 PM  
(GMT-05:00) /divdivTo: Cc List cnc-list@cnc-list.com /divdivSubject: 
Stus-List Rain inside mast? /divdiv
/divI've been trying for months to figure out where all the fresh water in 
the bilge is coming from. I re fastened o rings  and washers for the single 
water tank and today while on board on the pouring rain, it sounded like a 
current of water coming down the inside of the mast. The mast step was filled 
with rain water and going into the bilge but there was no leak thru the mast 
collar. Where is the rain getting in?

Barbara H. Fellers


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Re: Stus-List Sailcloth - Cruising Laminate

[coltrek via CnC-List]

Careful Dave, I got yelled at for talking like that!

Bill Coleman
CC 39



div Original message /divdivFrom: davidrisch75 via 
CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com /divdivDate:07/29/2014  9:49 PM  
(GMT-05:00) /divdivTo: sam.c.sal...@gmail.com, CnC cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
/divdivSubject: Re: Stus-List Sailcloth - Cruising Laminate /divdiv
/divYea they explode.  Boy do they explode. 8k of carbon fibre explode.  2 
seasons and a lifetime  of lessons.  Never again

1981 40-2.  


Sent from my Verizon Wireless 4G LTE smartphone


 Original message 
From: Sam Salter via CnC-List
Date:07/29/2014 9:38 PM (GMT-05:00)
To: CnC
Subject: Re: Stus-List Sailcloth - Cruising Laminate

‎Here:
http://www.dimension-polyant.com/en/Laminate_Cruising_2_3_1.php

It's high tech / lightweight s*#t, so it's going to be much lighter than Dacron.
I bought a full laminate genoa last season - it's half the Weight (...or less) 
of my old Dacron 135%.
Cruising laminate is going to be somewhere in between.

So with a bit of research you can determine if it's going to hold up.

A word of warning - don't know about cruising laminate, but regular high tech 
sails don't slowly blow out over time like Dacron ‎- they suddenly explode!

sam :-)
  Original Message  
From: John Pennie via CnC-List
Sent: Tuesday, July 29, 2014 6:15 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Reply To: John Pennie
Subject: Stus-List Sailcloth - Cruising Laminate

Hello all

I was taking my summer hiatus from the list but something has come up…

For financial reasons I had delayed new sails this winter. Just too many other 
projects going on. Browsing Bacon’s listings I came across a jib (130%) which 
is virtually new. Dimensions are near perfect, luff tape is the correct size, 
suncover is on the correct side and even the right color. I know Bacon well and 
have no concerns there. Here’s the rub…

The sail is listed as a “cruise laminate” by Quantum. Again I have no concerns 
with either of those pieces of information. Would love to know what the the 
laminate is but that information is not available. Assume some blend of 
polyester, mylar and something for strength. My concern is that cloth weight is 
listed as 4.75 ounce. This for a 40’ boat with a tall rig. Even by Long Island 
Sound standards that seems terribly light. Price is now down to just over 1/3 
the price of a new sail. Any thoughts?

John


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Re: Stus-List Help (volume 2) Terrible Ordeal really

[coltrek via CnC-List]

I would say so!

Wild Bill

div Original message /divdivFrom: Andrew Burton via 
CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com /divdivDate:07/12/2014  1:04 PM  
(GMT-05:00) /divdivTo: Wally Bryant w...@wbryant.com, 
cnc-list@cnc-list.com /divdivSubject: Re: Stus-List Help (volume 2) 
Terrible Ordeal really /divdiv
/divPerhaps I should revise my comment about mental health :)
Andy
CC 40
Peregrine

Andrew Burton
61 W Narragansett
Newport, RI 
USA02840

http://sites.google.com/site/andrewburtonyachtservices/
+401 965-5260

 On Jul 12, 2014, at 12:48, Wally Bryant via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
 wrote:
 
 We had atypicallightning storm the other night rolling down from the 
 mountains. Lightning and thunder every two or three seconds, and pouring 
 rain. After making sure the boat was secure, I fell dozed off on the port 
 bench with a book, and with my head two feet from the keel stepped mast. 
 Suddenly there was an incredible flash of lightning with a simultaneous crash 
 of 90db thunder, and I literally levitated.
 
 I felt really odd, but shook it off and decided to go check out the boat. The 
 boat was okay, so I wandered down the dock checking out other boats to make 
 sure they were okay.  Then I crashed through the gate and headed up to 
 thesmall village to make sure it was okay.
 
 I'm used to having dogsbark at me, because I'm a gringo and I look different. 
  But now, I seem to be seven feet tall and my skin has turned an odd shade of 
 green.  The biggest problem is that I can't stop waving my arms around when I 
 walk.  I need to get out of town quickly, because people are chasing me with 
 torches.
 
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Re: Stus-List About bigger boats

[coltrek via CnC-List]

Sounds like you just talked yourself into a downsize!


Wild Bill

div Original message /divdivFrom: Dennis C. via 
CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com /divdivDate:07/05/2014  9:09 PM  
(GMT-05:00) /divdivTo: cnc-list@cnc-list.com /divdivSubject: Stus-List 
About bigger boats /divdiv
/divI'm sitting on a balcony watching the sunset at a friend's condo 
overlooking the beginning of Rocky Bayou on the northern reaches of 
Choctowatchee Bay at Niceville, Fla. I'm pondering the recent thread on a 
bigger boat. 

This venue is lovely. We've watched a lot of sailboats and power boats come and 
go to/from the the marina a bit north. 

If I was to bring Touché here it would take 5 days. A 30 would only take 3 
days. I can't get Touché under the ICW bridges at Navarre Beach or Fort Walton. 
Similarly, I can't get under the East Pass bridge coming in from the gulf at 
Destin. 

I'd have to transit all the way to Panama City, enter St. Andrews Bay then come 
back west via the ICW to get into Chocotowatchee Bay. That's an extra 2 days. 

Friend of mine traded his Beneteau 47 for an Island Packet 485. Now he can't 
get under the Pensacola Beach bridge to sail Santa Rosa Sound, some really 
prime sailing waters. 

So, there are some disadvantages to a bigger boat. 

Dennis C.
Touché 35-1 #83
Mandeville, La

Sent from my iPhone
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Re: Stus-List Talk some sense into me please!

[coltrek via CnC-List]

And in his review of the CC 39, he said THAT was his favorite! 
But hey, I tell each of my son's in law that the got the pick of the litter!

(Bob Perry told me that it's still his favorite)


Wild Bill
CC 39

div Original message /divdivFrom: Wally Bryant via 
CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com /divdivDate:07/04/2014  4:18 PM  
(GMT-05:00) /divdivTo: cnc-list@cnc-list.com /divdivSubject: Re: 
Stus-List Talk some sense into me please! /divdiv
/divRyan -

Your *key point* was when you said to make sure its a 
sport/lifestyle/hobby for me...

Before I bought this LF38 I had an Islander 28 -- a very stiff and 
forgiving little sailing machine (Bob Perry told me that it's still his 
favorite boat, back when I asked him if the CC LF38 was a good boat) 


Wal



Ryan wrote:
 What is every one's thoughts and advice? I am trying to temper my
 impulsiveness and just learn on and enjoy my 30' to make sure its a
 sport/lifestyle/hobby for me but dangling the Landfall in front of me for
 such a great price is tempting!!!


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Re: Stus-List Aluminum coating

[coltrek via CnC-List]

It's supposed to be anodized,  so it should wear,  not flake,  unless someone 
painted it.
I had mine stripped  re- anodized black.  It came out corse,  and I wouldn't 
do it again.  I would just paint it, after a zinc chromate primer.  Maybe black 
engine paint would look appropriate. 


Wild Bill

div Original message /divdivFrom: Tom Buscaglia via 
CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com /divdivDate:06/29/2014  12:26 PM  
(GMT-05:00) /divdivTo: cnc-list@cnc-list.com /divdivSubject: Stus-List 
Aluminum coating /divdiv
/divThe black coating on the stanchion bases along the rail on Alera have 
flaked off in a few spots.  I bet someone here has dealt with this issue...

Tom Buscaglia
S/V Arera 
1990 CC 37+/40
Vashon WA
P 206.463.9200



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Re: Stus-List Seacocks

[coltrek via CnC-List]

Well, I guess I'm a bad seaman too. I have never closed my seacocks either. I 
just make sure that my hoses are good and the connections are sound. I could 
never remember to turn them on when I needed them. I'll take that back. I do 
have to close to seacock to the sink in the head when the wind is up. 


 Bill
CC 39

div Original message /divdivFrom: dwight via CnC-List 
cnc-list@cnc-list.com /divdivDate:05/26/2014  5:18 AM  (GMT-05:00) 
/divdivTo: 'Jim Watts' paradigmat...@gmail.com,cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
/divdivSubject: Stus-List Seacocks /divdiv
/divMy CC 35 MKII has 7 Groco bronze seacocks, each one placed in a very 
hard to reach space…since it is well known to be good seamanship to close all 
seacocks when leaving the boat I wonder why the designers did not make them a 
little more easily accessible and with longer handles too…I might be more 
inclined to use them if they were more accessible…however all 7 do move freely 
open to close, the surveyor confirmed that just last week
 
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Jim Watts 
via CnC-List
Sent: May 26, 2014 2:07 AM
To: M Bod; 1 CnC List
Subject: Re: Stus-List First sail
 
Either leave the engine seacock open, or hang the ignition key off the seacock 
handle. Me, I'm useless and we have a Yanmar, so I can start the engine with 
pretty much anything I have in my pocket including lint. I leave the seacock 
open. I know this makes me a bad person and I can live with that.

Jim Watts
Paradigm Shift
CC 35 Mk III
Victoria, BC
 

On 25 May 2014 20:13, M Bod via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote:

OK. Boat got off the dock today. After a bunch of engine work, new hoses and 
new fuel tank (all installed by mechanic) everything is supposed to be working 
smoothly.

Well. Getting off the dock was not so smooth. Couldn't sort out why roller 
furler was jamming for a bit.
Finally sorted the issue, started the engine, made sure all looked good 
(exhaust a little louder than I expected, but not bad).

Off we went (had a friend along to assist moving the boat from the marina to a 
nearby cove where it can stay an extra week).

10 min out I see some smoke riding through the companion way. Throttle down. 
Full off engine cowling. Coolant everywhere! Must have a leak.

We turn around to limp back to the dock. I'm looking at the mess with the 
coolant boiling over when I realize (OK remember mechanic warned me) the 
seacock for the engine is CLOSED!!!

Opened the seacock.  Everything cooled off. We had burned off much of our 
coolant - so I poured in a 1/2 litre water bottle. Kept the engine at low rpm 
and made the run to the cove.

Little hitch at the end.  Went to furl the jib but too much sail and not enough 
line on the furling drum. Only managed to pack away 2/3 of the sail. Solved 
that by doing 10 clockwise circles in the bay to wrap the sail around the 
forestay! Dirty, but it worked.
All told we survived. Feel like a royal idiot for forgetting the seacock. Had 
pretty good water shooting out of the muffler after - but I figure I better 
pull the impellor and check/replace it anyway.

I had checked the exhaust when we started - saw splashes. But later realized I 
was looking at the air exhaust hitting the water and causing a little splash.

Still a little shell shocked from the experience but thinking I'll likely 
remember the seacock in the future!

Mark
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