Re: [Elecraft] OT - JT65 on 2m

2016-09-19 Thread Edward R Cole

Kjeld,

Not sure what is locally done in Denmark but as a 2m eme'er I can 
tell you that 144.000-144.100 is universally restricted to 
CW-only.  144.100-144.170 is used for digital eme with 144.140 also 
used for meteor scatter in NA.  144.170-144.200 in the USA is fairly 
un-used so open for SSB or CW or digital.  Above 144.200-144.275 is 
SSB and 144.275-144.300 is used for beacons.


But I realize a lot of EU only has 144-146 MHz so your national 2m 
band plan may be quite different than here in the USA.  But I would 
not use 144.076 else you hear from your local eme'rs.


73, Ed - KL7UW

Subject: [Elecraft] OT - JT65 on 2m
Message-ID: <008401d21279$bb463910$31d2ab30$@kh-translation.dk>
Content-Type: text/plain;   charset="us-ascii"

Dear Elecrafters,
After having a lot of DX and fun with WSJT-X on HF using JT65 I was about to
look for the possibilities of activating my 2m transverter in my K3.
WSJT-X suggests 144.489 but on the internet there are a lot of other
frequencies listed among others 144.076, 144.116, 144.160 and 144.120 MHz.
Having just a 4-element horizontal Yagi I will rather ask for advice than
spending a lot of time on empty frequencies.
Vy 73 de OZ1CCM, Kjeld



73, Ed - KL7UW
http://www.kl7uw.com
"Kits made by KL7UW"
Dubus Mag business:
dubus...@gmail.com

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Re: [Elecraft] Anti-static Pads

2016-09-19 Thread Alan Bloom

On 09/19/2016 08:32 PM, Richard Fjeld wrote:

I stand corrected.  I didn't realize the resistance was that great.

I need to think of a simple way to determine conductivity rather than
measuring the resistance.


Here are the results of some anti-static mat testing that I did a few 
years ago.  If you scroll down to the bottom, there is a description of 
the test procedure.


http://www.mail-archive.com/elecraft%40mailman.qth.net/msg94407.html

Alan N1AL
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Re: [Elecraft] Anti-static Pads

2016-09-19 Thread Richard Fjeld
I stand corrected.  I didn't realize the resistance was that great.

I need to think of a simple way to determine conductivity rather than 
measuring the resistance.

Thanks for the answers.

Dick, n0ce



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Re: [Elecraft] Anti-static Pads

2016-09-19 Thread Ron D'Eau Claire
The test procedure involves both the contact area and measuring a very high
resistance - in the Gigaohm range. That requires very specialized equipment
that few (if any) Hams have on hand. 

Useful "probes" for connecting to the mat run from $150 to almost $400. For
example:

https://www.amazon.com/PRS-801-W-Conductive-Surface-Resistance-Electrode/dp/
B017V3RO2A/ref=pd_day0_328_6?ie=UTF8=1=9VFF4V66Y9VFB0F7Z4E9

I believe you will need two probes, plus a meter that can measure in the
Gigaohm range .

The price of one probe would convince me to simply buy a new mat, Hi! 

73 Ron AC7AC

P.S. Us K2 owners are rather quiet these days. I suspect few are still
monitoring the reflector. I miss the many questions about soldering,
testing, setting up an antenna, etc. But time, and products, moves on..


-Original Message-
From: Elecraft [mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of
Richard Fjeld
Sent: Monday, September 19, 2016 7:34 PM
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Anti-static Pads

At this point; A Question about how to properly test an anti-static mat?

I bought one last winter that appears to be totally non-conductive. I don't
think it is my error.
If others have mats like this, and are trusting them, I can see the
possibility for failures.

Dick, n0ce

P.S. I like reading the comments about the K2's.


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Re: [Elecraft] Anti-static Pads

2016-09-19 Thread Fred Jensen
10^9+ ohms [1,000 megohms or more] is pretty much "non-conductive" for 
anything we ordinary hams have to measure it.  My Heath MM-1 just 
doesn't register at that. :-)


Whether or not your mat is any good for ESD protection, and whether or 
not you can believe the specs if it has them, depends a lot on where it 
comes from.


73,

Fred K6DGW
- Sparks NV DM09dn

- Northern California Contest Club
- CU in the Cal QSO Party 1-2 Oct 2016
- www.cqp.org

On 9/19/2016 7:34 PM, Richard Fjeld wrote:

At this point; A Question about how to properly test an anti-static mat?

I bought one last winter that appears to be totally non-conductive. I
don't think it is my error.
If others have mats like this, and are trusting them, I can see the
possibility for failures.

Dick, n0ce


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Re: [Elecraft] Anti-static Pads

2016-09-19 Thread Jim Rhodes
Well, the resistance of a good one is probably higher than what a normal
VOM could measure. A merger might measure it, but having never had access
to one I couldn't be sure.

On Sep 19, 2016 8:35 PM, "Richard Fjeld"  wrote:

At this point; A Question about how to properly test an anti-static mat?

I bought one last winter that appears to be totally non-conductive. I
don't think it is my error.
If others have mats like this, and are trusting them, I can see the
possibility for failures.

Dick, n0ce

P.S. I like reading the comments about the K2's.



On 9/19/2016 4:12 PM, Don Wilhelm wrote:
> Hi all,
>
> A point I failed to make in my comments below is that the goal of
> anti-static measures is to keep everything at the same potential (and
> not necessarily to 'ground things').
> For instance, all my tools touch my anti-static mat before I use them,
> and when I remove a device which is shipped in anti-static bags or the
> black foam from its anti-static material, I place the bag or foam on
> my anti-static mat first, then remove the device and place its leads
> on the mat.  That assures that anything originating beyond the bounds
> of my mat will be equalized to whatever potential exists on the mat -
> there should be no static potential difference between items that
> reside on my mat.
>
> 73,
> Don W3FPR

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Re: [Elecraft] Anti-static Pads

2016-09-19 Thread Richard Fjeld
At this point; A Question about how to properly test an anti-static mat?

I bought one last winter that appears to be totally non-conductive. I 
don't think it is my error.
If others have mats like this, and are trusting them, I can see the 
possibility for failures.

Dick, n0ce

P.S. I like reading the comments about the K2's.



On 9/19/2016 4:12 PM, Don Wilhelm wrote:
> Hi all,
>
> A point I failed to make in my comments below is that the goal of 
> anti-static measures is to keep everything at the same potential (and 
> not necessarily to 'ground things').
> For instance, all my tools touch my anti-static mat before I use them, 
> and when I remove a device which is shipped in anti-static bags or the 
> black foam from its anti-static material, I place the bag or foam on 
> my anti-static mat first, then remove the device and place its leads 
> on the mat.  That assures that anything originating beyond the bounds 
> of my mat will be equalized to whatever potential exists on the mat - 
> there should be no static potential difference between items that 
> reside on my mat.
>
> 73,
> Don W3FPR

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[Elecraft] K3 Manual

2016-09-19 Thread Rich
The searchable emails did not cover this question, so if it was asked 
prior I apologize.  Should K3 owners just stick with the K3 manual which 
is dated 2011 or should we start using the K3S manual?


I guess the real question would be are these manuals now combined into 
one for both radios?


Rich
K3RWN
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[Elecraft] Running stations with k3

2016-09-19 Thread WILLIE BABER
Hello All,

I did M/M with a big station in the NW running Icom 7700.  Needless to say 
comparison between K3 (one was on site) versus Icom radios came into discussion 
during rest periods.  Yes, the Icom 7700 played quite well, giving what some 
called "full-body" cw and easy to pick-out-stations while running them.

I like all radios...well almost all of them.  Having said that, you can easily 
get "full-body" cw and better running of station if you simulate the front-end 
of the Icom radio using K3.  To do this, set the first I-F filter to ssb 
bandwidth (2.7khz) and then use the DSP to deliver 500 hz passband.  You will 
hear stations that are within the 2.7khz window but not quite on your frequency 
(similar to 7700) while running stations, and without having to fool so often 
with RIT.

Once you go to 400 hz  in the first  I-F of K3 you are in serious high dynamic 
range territory...better have a k-pod on RIT and forget about "full-body" cw, 
which requires a wider first I-F.  Of course when you need a narrow first I-F 
you can have several of them in K3.

My two cents.

73, Will, wj9b

CWops #1085
CWA Advisor levels II and III
http://cwops.org/
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[Elecraft] NAQCC September Sprint this Wednesday Evening

2016-09-19 Thread Larry W2LJ
The September sprint is this coming Wednesday evening local time (September 
21st,
EDT - 8:30-10:30PM, CDT - 7:30-9:30PM, MDT - 6:30-8:30PM, PDT - 5:30-7:30PM),
which translates as Thursday, September 22nd, 0030 to 0230Z in all cases.

For all the "official" information, please go to:

http://www.naqcc.info/sprint201609.html

There you will find all the details as to time, frequencies and other important
information.

Certificates: SWA (simple wire antennas) certificates by call area, VE and DX
for 1st, 2nd and 3rd place finishers (New!). A Certificate for top score in the
GAIN antenna category.

Prizes: Too many to list!! - check out the prizes page on our website.

This is a monthly event that caters to the CW veteran, the CW newcomer, straight
key and bug fans. All are welcome to participate (this includes QRO); but you
must use QRP power levels to compete for awards.

If you've been hesitant to join in our sprints because you hear other sprints
running at breakneck speeds, have no fear. Our sprints are geared to the
newcomer to CW and/or contesting. Virtually everyone including the many veteran
contesters who regularly enter our sprints will slow down to YOUR speed to help
you make your contacts.

If you are not already a member of NAQCC... membership is FREE! Now is your
chance to join the largest QRP CW Club in the world!! We currently have 7100+
members in: All 50 States - 9 VE Provinces - 100 Countries. Sign up on the
NAQCC website today (http://naqcc.info/) and receive a handsome certificate,
with your membership number on it, which is good for life.

Come join us and have a real good time!


72/73 de Larry W2LJ
NAQCC #35

for NAQCC
http://naqcc.info/
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[Elecraft] DSP/Audio upgrade for K3

2016-09-19 Thread GRANT YOUNGMAN
Anyone ever heard a fact or rumor (or conspiracy theory related to chemtrails) 
about what happened to the early advertised DSP board upgrade for the K3 that 
included the new low distortion AF amp in the K3S??

It was announced as one of the upgrades that would be available for the K3.  
Apparently still buried under the cone of silence … but it would be nice to 
have some definitive answer from Elecraft one way or the other.

Grant NQ5T
K3 #2091, KX3 #8342



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[Elecraft] K1 for sale

2016-09-19 Thread Jan

Elecraft K1 with 4-band module and original manual
Available from an estate that I'm handling
73, Jan ~ contact off-list => k1nd at comcast dor net
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Re: [Elecraft] XG3 Calibration from 10MHz Standard?

2016-09-19 Thread brian

Hi Maverick,

The accuracy of the DG1022A stinks with the internal oscillator. Counter 
likewise is inaccurate. Look at the specs -- something like 50 ppm.


I had one and measured how bad it really was.  In all other respects, it 
was a decent product.  Apparently waveform synthesis is cheap and easy 
but including a decent reference oscillator isn't at the Rigol's price 
point.


When I tried to lock it to a Rb source and it was much better but still 
off (low) a small amount.  To make it accurate, I had to use as 
super-stable reference oscillator at slightly greater than 10 MHz 
(10,000,000.175Hz) to get the RIGOL to be accurate.


73 de Brian/K3KO



On 9/19/2016 22:23 PM, MaverickNH wrote:

I have a Rigol DG1022A Arbitrary Waveform Function Generator that has a
counter that can measure 1 Hz to 200 MHz at 200 mVpp to 5 Vpp. My GPSDO is
within this range for 10 MHz output (5 Vpp knocked down 3 dB). Seems the XG3
and XG3 should work fine, eh?



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Re: [Elecraft] XG3 Calibration from 10MHz Standard?

2016-09-19 Thread MaverickNH
I have a Rigol DG1022A Arbitrary Waveform Function Generator that has a
counter that can measure 1 Hz to 200 MHz at 200 mVpp to 5 Vpp. My GPSDO is
within this range for 10 MHz output (5 Vpp knocked down 3 dB). Seems the XG3
and XG3 should work fine, eh?



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Re: [Elecraft] Anti-static Pads

2016-09-19 Thread Ron D'Eau Claire
As I observed to Dick, n0ce:

It's been a long, long road from the early low-impedance bipolar transistors
to the modern ultra low power FETs.

There was a time we worried about getting hurt: knocked on our keister by
accidentally touching high voltage or burning our fingers on a hot vacuum
tube. Now the tables are turned and we have to worry more about the
equipment. 

73, Ron AC7AC

-Original Message-
From: Elecraft [mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of Don
Wilhelm
Sent: Monday, September 19, 2016 1:59 PM
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Anti-static Pads

Hi all,

While I can state that Ron's comment about the K2 is typically true, the
static tolerance of thru-hole ICs and transistors is lower than it was back
in 1998 or even 2006 (OK, I picked those years as a guess).  Many DIP
mounted devices are really SMD devices with DIP leads and can be as static
sensitive as the devices in the K3 and KX3.
Despite the "touch grounded metal" instruction in the K2 manual, I do see
some repairs come in with failed firmware ICs, and rarely, but not zero,
some 'normal' ICs on a new build.
My best guess is that those parts were damaged due to a static charge.
Whether the builder did not follow the "touch a metal ground" or not I
cannot tell, all I know is that it failed.

When possible, use an anti-static mat and wrist strap when handling ICs and
transistors, especially during periods of low humidity.  Do not work on
carpet without them and do not wear nylon clothing - and don't shuffle your
feet on the floor while working.
The minimum should be a wrist strap connected to the green-wire ground in
your house.  You can use a banana plug in the round pin of an electrical
receptacle, but before you trust it, get one of the receptacle testers and
make sure that green wire ground is intact - some are not.

Whether your anti-static precautions are 'overkill' for the task to be
accomplished will never be known.  Take whatever precautions make you feel
comfortable with the risk factor involved.  Doing nothing or ignoring the
static damage probability is not acceptable unless you are willing to accept
the risk.

I suggest that you do not connect the wrist strap to a separate ground rod
that you have for your hamshack unless that ground rod is also bonded to the
utility entrance ground rod.
It is off this topic, but if your ground rods are not connected to the
utility entrance ground, it is a safety hazard should something in the house
*or* your shack develop a fault.  In addition, it is a violation of the NEC
(those codes are written for your safety).

73,
Don W3FPR


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Re: [Elecraft] K3S Upgrades

2016-09-19 Thread Don Wilhelm

Geoff,

I did not see a reply on the reflector, so I am offering my opinion.

The order I would suggest is to add the KAT3 first, then the KPA3, and 
last the K144XV.
That order suggestion is based on physical space, nothing electrical.  
It is easier to install the KAT3 before the KPA3 because there is more 
"finger room".  The K144XV should be installed last because it sits atop 
everything else and you would likely want to remove it to install the KPA3.


Whether you test each one as each is installed or wait until you have 
everything in is up to you.
Testing each one as it is installed will tell you that piece is OK.  If 
you wait until all of them have been installed, in the case of trouble, 
all you can say is that the problem is with one of the options 
installed.  If you are *really* good at troubleshooting, then you will 
be successful either way, but since you felt a need to ask, I suspect 
your confidence level is not that high and you should test each after 
its installation.


73,
Don W3FPR

On 9/18/2016 5:52 PM, Geoff wrote:

Perhaps a simple question but I am a new Elecraft user.

I have a 10 Watt K3S, (obtained pre built) together 
with*thefollowing three upgrade options ready to be installed; 
*100W automatic antenna tuner (KAT3), 100W PA stage (KPA3) and 2m 
option (K144XV).


Is there any preferred order to install them? Left to my own devices I 
would probably start with KPA3, and finish with the K144XV, and I am 
also wondering whether to re-assemble and test between the addition of 
each module.


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Re: [Elecraft] Audio Ground Loop Isolation XFRMR?

2016-09-19 Thread Jim Brown

On Mon,9/19/2016 12:13 PM, Fred Jensen wrote:
The K3 has isolation transformers on LINE IN/OUT.  You don't need to 
add any more.


And THOSE transformers are unnecessary -- all that is needed is proper 
BONDING.


I assume you're using the term "ground-loop problems" in the generic 
[and somewhat archaic] sense.


Yes. Indeed, there is no such thing as a "ground loop" -- it's an 
entirely false concept.


Make sure that you're not using the shield of any of the cables [RF or 
AF] as the bond between your component's chassis' or enclosures. 


Right. That is NOT a bond. Indeed, part of the CAUSE of these hum/buzz 
problems is that the cable shield is NOT connected to the chassis at one 
or both ends.


They should all be directly bonded together.  If isolating the shields 
with external isolation transformers fixes the noise, that's a huge clue.


73, Jim K9YC


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Re: [Elecraft] XG3 Calibration from 10MHz Standard?

2016-09-19 Thread Paul Saffren N6HZ
Please realize that while the XG3 can be calibrated, it does not employ a
temperature compensated or ovenized crystal oscillator as is found in higher
end test equipment.  The unit can be  susceptible to temperature swings,
holding it in your hand for several minutes, for example,  will affect the
output frequency by a few Hertz.  

73, 

Paul n6hz
XG3 PM




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Re: [Elecraft] Audio Ground Loop Isolation XFRMR?

2016-09-19 Thread Jim Brown

On Mon,9/19/2016 11:40 AM, Robin Moseley wrote:

or open circuit one of the shields  at one end.


NO, NO, NO!These are UN-BALANCED circuits. That solution only works on 
BALANCED circuits.


73, Jim K9YC

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Re: [Elecraft] Anti-static Pads

2016-09-19 Thread Don Wilhelm

Hi all,

While I can state that Ron's comment about the K2 is typically true, the 
static tolerance of thru-hole ICs and transistors is lower than it was 
back in 1998 or even 2006 (OK, I picked those years as a guess).  Many 
DIP mounted devices are really SMD devices with DIP leads and can be as 
static sensitive as the devices in the K3 and KX3.
Despite the "touch grounded metal" instruction in the K2 manual, I do 
see some repairs come in with failed firmware ICs, and rarely, but not 
zero, some 'normal' ICs on a new build.

My best guess is that those parts were damaged due to a static charge.
Whether the builder did not follow the "touch a metal ground" or not I 
cannot tell, all I know is that it failed.


When possible, use an anti-static mat and wrist strap when handling ICs 
and transistors, especially during periods of low humidity.  Do not work 
on carpet without them and do not wear nylon clothing - and don't 
shuffle your feet on the floor while working.
The minimum should be a wrist strap connected to the green-wire ground 
in your house.  You can use a banana plug in the round pin of an 
electrical receptacle, but before you trust it, get one of the 
receptacle testers and make sure that green wire ground is intact - some 
are not.


Whether your anti-static precautions are 'overkill' for the task to be 
accomplished will never be known.  Take whatever precautions make you 
feel comfortable with the risk factor involved.  Doing nothing or 
ignoring the static damage probability is not acceptable unless you are 
willing to accept the risk.


I suggest that you do not connect the wrist strap to a separate ground 
rod that you have for your hamshack unless that ground rod is also 
bonded to the utility entrance ground rod.
It is off this topic, but if your ground rods are not connected to the 
utility entrance ground, it is a safety hazard should something in the 
house *or* your shack develop a fault.  In addition, it is a violation 
of the NEC (those codes are written for your safety).


73,
Don W3FPR

On 9/19/2016 4:12 PM, Ron D'Eau Claire wrote:

Note that the K2 manual does not make much of an issue about an anti-static mat. It's on 
the bottom of the anti-static priority list Wayne compiled. In the interest of full 
disclosure, I built my K2 while most of my stuff was in storage, working solely on a 
small wooden drawing board using my ESD-Safe iron. I simply did the recommended 
"touch a ground" before each time I reached for a transistor, i.c. or pc board 
and experienced no problems whatsoever. Sixteen years later the K2 is still going strong.

73, Ron AC7AC





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Re: [Elecraft] Anti-static Pads

2016-09-19 Thread Don Wilhelm

Hi all,

A point I failed to make in my comments below is that the goal of 
anti-static measures is to keep everything at the same potential (and 
not necessarily to 'ground things').
For instance, all my tools touch my anti-static mat before I use them, 
and when I remove a device which is shipped in anti-static bags or the 
black foam from its anti-static material, I place the bag or foam on my 
anti-static mat first, then remove the device and place its leads on the 
mat.  That assures that anything originating beyond the bounds of my mat 
will be equalized to whatever potential exists on the mat - there should 
be no static potential difference between items that reside on my mat.


73,
Don W3FPR


Hi all,

While I can state that Ron's comment about the K2 is typically true, the 
static tolerance of thru-hole ICs and transistors is lower than it was 
back in 1998 or even 2006 (OK, I picked those years as a guess).  Many 
current DIP mounted devices are really SMD devices with DIP leads and 
can be as static sensitive as the devices in the K3 and KX3.
Despite the "touch grounded metal" instruction in the K2 manual, I do 
see some repairs come in with failed firmware ICs, and rarely, but not 
zero, some 'normal' ICs on a new build.

My best guess is that those parts were damaged due to a static charge.
Whether the builder did not follow the "touch a metal ground" or not I 
cannot tell, all I know is that it failed.


When possible, use an anti-static mat and wrist strap when handling ICs 
and transistors, especially during periods of low humidity.  Do not work 
on carpet without them and do not wear nylon clothing - and don't 
shuffle your feet on the floor while working.
The minimum should be a wrist strap connected to the green-wire ground 
in your house.  You can use a banana plug in the round pin of an 
electrical receptacle, but before you trust it, get one of the 
receptacle testers and make sure that green wire ground is intact - some 
are not.


Whether your anti-static precautions are 'overkill' for the task to be 
accomplished will never be known.  Take whatever precautions make you 
feel comfortable with the risk factor involved.  Doing nothing or 
ignoring the static damage probability is not acceptable unless you are 
willing to accept the risk.


I suggest that you do not connect the wrist strap to a separate ground 
rod that you have for your hamshack unless that ground rod is also 
bonded to the utility entrance ground rod.
It is off this topic, but if your ground rods are not connected to the 
utility entrance ground, it is a safety hazard should something in the 
house *or* your shack develop a fault.  In addition, it is a violation 
of the NEC (those codes are written for your safety).


73,
Don W3FPR

On 9/19/2016 4:12 PM, Ron D'Eau Claire wrote:

Note that the K2 manual does not make much of an issue about an anti-static mat. It's on 
the bottom of the anti-static priority list Wayne compiled. In the interest of full 
disclosure, I built my K2 while most of my stuff was in storage, working solely on a 
small wooden drawing board using my ESD-Safe iron. I simply did the recommended 
"touch a ground" before each time I reached for a transistor, i.c. or pc board 
and experienced no problems whatsoever. Sixteen years later the K2 is still going strong.

73, Ron AC7AC





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Re: [Elecraft] Anti-static Pads

2016-09-19 Thread Fred Jensen
I built K2 S/N 4398 the same as Ron, on a desktop with a Formica top in 
a room with a carpet.  I kept all semiconductor parts in their 
anti-static bags and/or conductive foam, and touched ground before 
picking them up.  My soldering station is static-safe.  I tried not to 
shuffle my feet on the carpet and wore sneakers with rubber soles.  I 
did ban the vacuum from the room until I was done and the K2 was 
working. :-)


Don did an alignment for me when he replaced an intermittent component, 
other than that, it's been completely fine.


73,

Fred K6DGW
Sparks NV USA
Washoe County DM09dn

On 9/19/2016 1:12 PM, Ron D'Eau Claire wrote:


 Note that the K2 manual does not make much of an issue about an
anti-static mat. It's on the bottom of the anti-static priority list
Wayne compiled. In the interest of full disclosure, I built my K2
while most of my stuff was in storage, working solely on a small
wooden drawing board using my ESD-Safe iron. I simply did the
recommended "touch a ground" before each time I reached for a
transistor, i.c. or pc board and experienced no problems whatsoever.
Sixteen years later the K2 is still going strong.

73, Ron AC7AC

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Re: [Elecraft] Anti-static Pads

2016-09-19 Thread Ron D'Eau Claire
Hello Ed:

I don't have any experience with mat cleaners. Perhaps some of the other list 
members do.

If your old mat did not come with a resistance value specified, I suggest 
replacing it.  The Elecraft engineer testing a variety of mats found that the 
resistance of a mat without a spec was always far too high to be of practical 
value. 

I checked to see if the products suggested are still available. These all have 
resistances in the Gigaohm (1X10^9 ohm) range. 

The U-Line mat can be purchased here:

https://www.uline.com/BL_7403/Anti-Static-Table-Mats

The Desco 66164 is available here:

http://www.testequipmentdepot.com/desco/floor-worksurface-mats/worksurface-mats/vinyl/66164.htm

The 3M mats seem to have been replaced by this one:

http://www.isconline.com/product/8214/3M-Blue-2%27x4%27-Table-Mat.html?cid=14

Note that the K2 manual does not make much of an issue about an anti-static 
mat. It's on the bottom of the anti-static priority list Wayne compiled. In the 
interest of full disclosure, I built my K2 while most of my stuff was in 
storage, working solely on a small wooden drawing board using my ESD-Safe iron. 
I simply did the recommended "touch a ground" before each time I reached for a 
transistor, i.c. or pc board and experienced no problems whatsoever. Sixteen 
years later the K2 is still going strong.

73, Ron AC7AC



-Original Message-
From: Elecraft [mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of Dauer, 
Edward
Sent: Monday, September 19, 2016 12:10 PM
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: [Elecraft] Anti-static Pads

Ron –

Your post (below) came at the right moment.  I am about to begin building 
another K2 and wondered whether my anti-static pad, now more than five years 
and ten Elecraft kits old, needs some sort of cleaning to maintain its 
properties; and, if so, what to clean it with – or maybe to replace it.

I have looked and found no brand name on it anywhere, though maybe there was 
one that disappeared when I cut the mat to fit my workspace.  I believe it was 
one of those recommended by Elecraft, but I have no record of it.

Is there a generic cleaner, or would it be safer to begin with a new one?

Forgive my asking this on the reflector rather than by private e-mail; but I 
suspect there may be some other old mats like me out there . . . 

Thanks,

Ted, KN1CBR


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Re: [Elecraft] Audio Ground Loop Isolation XFRMR?

2016-09-19 Thread Fred Jensen
The K3 has isolation transformers on LINE IN/OUT.  You don't need to add 
any more.  I assume you're using the term "ground-loop problems" in the 
generic [and somewhat archaic] sense.  Make sure that you're not using 
the shield of any of the cables [RF or AF] as the bond between your 
component's chassis' or enclosures.  They should all be directly bonded 
together.  If isolating the shields with external isolation transformers 
fixes the noise, that's a huge clue.


Finding the "chassis" on laptops can be a problem.  The hold-down nuts 
on DB or DE connectors are often [but not always] one place to get it. 
Unfortunately, those can be hard to find on some new laptops.


In stubborn cases, I'm told it sometimes helps if all the power cords 
connect to the same green wire too although I've never had to go that far.


73,

Fred K6DGW
-Sparks NV DM09dn

- Northern California Contest Club
- CU in the Cal QSO Party 1-2 Oct 2016
- www.cqp.org

On 9/19/2016 9:24 AM, dw wrote:


Any way, I've been experiencing ground-loop noise from my PC.
I've tried three different isolation transformers and they all work, but
with significant signal loss from the PC.
Does anyone have a suggestion?

Thanks!
N1BBR :-]


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[Elecraft] Anti-static Pads

2016-09-19 Thread Dauer, Edward
Ron –

Your post (below) came at the right moment.  I am about to begin building 
another K2 and wondered whether my anti-static pad, now more than five years 
and ten Elecraft kits old, needs some sort of cleaning to maintain its 
properties; and, if so, what to clean it with – or maybe to replace it.

I have looked and found no brand name on it anywhere, though maybe there was 
one that disappeared when I cut the mat to fit my workspace.  I believe it was 
one of those recommended by Elecraft, but I have no record of it.

Is there a generic cleaner, or would it be safer to begin with a new one?

Forgive my asking this on the reflector rather than by private e-mail; but I 
suspect there may be some other old mats like me out there . . . 

Thanks,

Ted, KN1CBR


--

Message: 9
Date: Sun, 18 Sep 2016 13:39:24 -0700
From: "Ron D'Eau Claire" 
To: "'G0PNM'" 
Cc: 
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] K3 Erratic VFO behaviour, Switching bands and
freq's
Message-ID: <000d01d211ec$be560c30$3b022490$@biz>
Content-Type: text/plain;   charset="us-ascii"

. . .  Testing a mat requires specialized equipment, so we recommend that you 
choose an anti-static mat
that comes with published resistance specifications and clean it as 
recommended by the manufacturer. . . . 

73, Ron AC7AC

 


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Re: [Elecraft] Audio Ground Loop Isolation XFRMR?

2016-09-19 Thread Robin Moseley
or open circuit one of the shields  at one end.. 

Robin G1MHU 
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[Elecraft] FS: Pig Knob (New in box)

2016-09-19 Thread Dave Cole
Hi,

I have a new in the box, never connected or even powered up, Pig Knob
for sale.  

This is new, never used, in it's original box.  Includes all cables and
paper work.

The first $85.00 gets it to your CONUS door, Paypal only.

The little Googly Pig Eyes are also still with it, unused.  You can
attach them if you want, or leave them off...

For more info see:
http://shop.pignology.net/PigKnob_p_31.html

-- 
73's, and thanks,
Dave (NK7Z)
For software/hardware reviews see:
http://www.nk7z.net

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Re: [Elecraft] Audio Ground Loop Isolation XFRMR?

2016-09-19 Thread Jim Brown

On Mon,9/19/2016 9:24 AM, dw wrote:

I have a switch-box at my station which allows me to switch back and
forth between the K3 audio and PC audio.
This allows me to have SDR running on the PC and I can also listen to
the K3 in one ear and the PC in the other.

Any way, I've been experiencing ground-loop noise from my PC.
I've tried three different isolation transformers and they all work, but
with significant signal loss from the PC.
Does anyone have a suggestion?


Yes. NO transformer is needed. What IS needed is 1) simple bonding 
together of the chassis of all the equipment in your shack, bonding that 
to all the other grounds in your home; and 2) get power for all of the 
equipment in your shack from the same AC outlet, or from outlets whose 
green wires are bonded together.


Study  http://k9yc.com/GroundingAndAudio.pdf

73, Jim K9YC
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[Elecraft] Elecraft, Thank you for having a display at W9DXCC

2016-09-19 Thread Bill Steffey NY9H

I'll third that ,,,

disappointed that I did not see a single device
5 KW amplifier  ( hehe ) ...\

please no flamers...  I know the drill.

TNX Eric & Wayne for coming to Chicago   T'was great.

bill   NY9H / 3




At 07:49 PM 9/18/2016, you wrote:



I will add a second to that.

Bob, K9RHY

From: ni...@yahoogroups.com [mailto:ni...@yahoogroups.com]
Sent: Sunday, September 18, 2016 4:59 PM
To: Michael Rosenberg; elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Cc: NIDXA Reflector
Subject: [NIDXA] Re: [Elecraft] Elecraft, Thank 
you for having a display at W9DXCC





I would like to echo Mike's comments.  Elecraft 
is very supportive of its customers and 
gatherings such as W9DXCC.  I appreciate the 
effort and cost that went into attending W9DXCC and providing raffle prizes.

Jim N7US
Sent from Outlook on my iPad

_
From: Michael Rosenberg 
<mikerosenb...@hotmail.com>

Sent: Sunday, September 18, 2016 3:02 PM
Subject: [Elecraft] Elecraft, Thank you for having a display at W9DXCC
To: <elecraft@mailman.qth.net>


Just wanted to take a couple of minutes to drop 
a line and say thank you for having a booth at 
W9DXCC this weekend. It was great to meet Dave 
S. and see the KX2 in person. I appreciate your 
making the effort to come to these smaller 
regional gatherings and bring the full line of 
products, answer questions and let us check everything out.



Also, many thanks for being a contributor of raffle prizes.


Best 73s


Mike

N9YB

KX3 #8017
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Re: [Elecraft] erratic vfo

2016-09-19 Thread Ron D'Eau Claire
Frustrating for sure! Does Elecraft support have any suggestions? Email:
k3support- at - elecraft dot com. 

73, Ron AC7AC 

-Original Message-
From: Elecraft [mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of Chris
Meagher
Sent: Monday, September 19, 2016 1:45 AM
To: pete.so...@icloud.com; elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: [Elecraft] erratic vfo

Hi Pete and the forum

I have been having exactly the same problem.
While rotating the VFO, it will suddenly jump to another frequency or band,
usually this seems to be nearer the band edges. There is a relay click when
there ought not to be one, then further on the 'jump' happens.

I have been advised to use de-oxit spray on the front panel to motherboard
pins, that did not work.
The next advice from elecraft support was to replace the motherboard male
pins with gold plated pins, I did this and it seemed to be effective for a
few days, but then the erratic behaviour returned, exactly the same
symptoms.
200MHz is a frequently jumped to point, and when i turn off the rig and back
on, it always goes to 28MHz band.

I am suspecting that something in newer firmware is incompatible with the
older K3's, but have no way to confirm this.

I understand your frustration, I have the same sense of disappointment, and
wonder what to do, I have been going back to my K2 as it is totally trouble
free.

Chris
VK2ACD

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Re: [Elecraft] K3 Erratic VFO behaviour, Switching bands and freq's

2016-09-19 Thread Ron D'Eau Claire
Ian: You make good points. That's why I was careful to say that static was
not a serious issue as long as you do NOT touch anything inside the K3. If
so, such as applying cleaner to the pins, anti-static protection is needed. 

My comments are based on over 50 years of working on sensitive solid state
gear, in the field and in the lab. And they agree with Wayne's
recommendations, which we have reproduced in the various Elecraft assembly
manuals. 

The most common source of a static charge while working is the person;
clothing rubbing, feet shuffling on the floor, etc. That's why being
grounded is very important. The ideal is to wear a conductive wrist or ankle
strap connected to ground through a high-value resistor (1 meg is common) to
prevent shock. Touching a ground accomplishes the same benefit. When not
wearing a strap I touch a ground every time before touching a component or
circuit. 

73, Ron AC7AC 


-Original Message-
From: Elecraft [mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of Ian
White
Sent: Monday, September 19, 2016 12:31 AM
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] K3 Erratic VFO behaviour, Switching bands and freq's


Sorry, I would strongly disagree. Removing the front panel is when you need
an anti-static mat and wrist strap the MOST. 

* You are separating two quite large assemblies, each of which is capable of
holding a significant charge (and each of which cost several hundred
dollars).

* You're just about to expose a large number of unprotected internal
connector pins.

* And in all probability, you're just about to *touch* every one of those
pins when applying antioxidant.

This really is NOT a good moment to skip the static protection.  

Also, "touching a ground" is fundamentally NOT what static protection is
about! It's about safely CONNECTING EVERYTHING TOGETHER (including the
operator) to discharge any potential differences. This includes keeping them
connected together, even while subassemblies like the front panel are being
unplugged. 

In this context, the word "safely" includes the use of high-resistance
materials and connecting leads, to avoid damaging discharge currents and
minimize the risk of electric shock to the operator. That is why the
operator is connected through a *high* resistance to ground - and also why
"touching ground" can actually do damage.


Note to Pete, G0PNM: in the UK, Contralube 770 (from Maplin) has proved to
be an excellent alternative to Deoxit.


73 from Ian GM3SEK


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[Elecraft] Audio Ground Loop Isolation XFRMR?

2016-09-19 Thread dw
I have a switch-box at my station which allows me to switch back and
forth between the K3 audio and PC audio.
This allows me to have SDR running on the PC and I can also listen to
the K3 in one ear and the PC in the other.

Any way, I've been experiencing ground-loop noise from my PC.
I've tried three different isolation transformers and they all work, but
with significant signal loss from the PC.
Does anyone have a suggestion?

Thanks!
N1BBR :-]
-- 
 bw...@fastmail.net

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Re: [Elecraft] **WANTED Elecraft KX1****

2016-09-19 Thread pkhjr via Elecraft
I have a KX1, with tuner, 30 meters, key, bnc lamp dummy load, Pelican 1120
case, all manuals.  Looks great and works as it should.  Looked up shipping
to Canada and medium priority mail box is almost $50.  Asking $425 based on
that shipping.

73 Tex
ka5y



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Re: [Elecraft] Noise when K-3 keyed

2016-09-19 Thread Dave Cole
On Sun, 2016-09-18 at 22:19 -0400, Don Wilhelm wrote:
> Louis,
> 
> It goes away in TX TEST.  So I suspect it is an RF-in-the-shack
> problem.
> Try the K3 into a dummy load to verify that assumption.
> 
> If it is OK on a dummy load, your best fix is in the antenna system - 
> better baluns, check antenna connections and anything else that can 
> cause common mode feedline currents.
> 
> 73,
> Don W3FPR

Bingo!  I was getting ready to send the same message...  I am also sure
it is RF related.

-- 
73's, and thanks,
Dave (NK7Z)
For software/hardware reviews see:
http://www.nk7z.net

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[Elecraft] OT - JT65 on 2m

2016-09-19 Thread Kjeld Holm
Dear Elecrafters,
After having a lot of DX and fun with WSJT-X on HF using JT65 I was about to
look for the possibilities of activating my 2m transverter in my K3. 
WSJT-X suggests 144.489 but on the internet there are a lot of other
frequencies listed among others 144.076, 144.116, 144.160 and 144.120 MHz. 
Having just a 4-element horizontal Yagi I will rather ask for advice than
spending a lot of time on empty frequencies. 
Vy 73 de OZ1CCM, Kjeld


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Re: [Elecraft] erratic vfo

2016-09-19 Thread Barry Simpson
Hi Chris

How old is your K3 ?

I built mine in 2008  (s/n 1397). It has all the "works" and I have
recently upgraded it with all the new boards available.

I have never experienced what you are suffering and I am running all of the
latest firmware and a KPod.

Barry  VK2BJ

On 19 September 2016 at 18:45, Chris Meagher  wrote:

> Hi Pete and the forum
>
> I have been having exactly the same problem.
> While rotating the VFO, it will suddenly jump to another frequency or band,
> usually this seems
> to be nearer the band edges. There is a relay click when there ought not to
> be one, then further on
> the 'jump' happens.
>
> I have been advised to use de-oxit spray on the front panel to motherboard
> pins, that did not work.
> The next advice from elecraft support was to replace the motherboard male
> pins with gold plated pins,
> I did this and it seemed to be effective for a few days, but then the
> erratic behaviour returned, exactly the same symptoms.
> 200MHz is a frequently jumped to point, and when i turn off the rig and
> back on, it always goes to 28MHz band.
>
> I am suspecting that something in newer firmware is incompatible with the
> older K3's,
> but have no way to confirm this.
>
> I understand your frustration, I have the same sense of disappointment, and
> wonder what to do,
> I have been going back to my K2 as it is totally trouble free.
>
> Chris
> VK2ACD
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Re: [Elecraft] K3 Erratic VFO behaviour, Switching bands and freq's

2016-09-19 Thread G Wood
Hello Pete

A few months ago I had similar problem with my K3 (sn: 05845).

I upgraded the FW from 05.29 to 05.38, tuning the vfo, the freq would jump, 
sometimes out of band. One occasion both vfo's read 300.000.00.

The rig had worked fine on the old FW so I reverted back to FW 05.29. That 
solved all the problems, that was 7 months ago, touch wood everything has 
worked fine since.

Something worth trying before taking boards out etc.

Graham G3VIP
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[Elecraft] erratic vfo

2016-09-19 Thread Chris Meagher
Hi Pete and the forum

I have been having exactly the same problem.
While rotating the VFO, it will suddenly jump to another frequency or band,
usually this seems
to be nearer the band edges. There is a relay click when there ought not to
be one, then further on
the 'jump' happens.

I have been advised to use de-oxit spray on the front panel to motherboard
pins, that did not work.
The next advice from elecraft support was to replace the motherboard male
pins with gold plated pins,
I did this and it seemed to be effective for a few days, but then the
erratic behaviour returned, exactly the same symptoms.
200MHz is a frequently jumped to point, and when i turn off the rig and
back on, it always goes to 28MHz band.

I am suspecting that something in newer firmware is incompatible with the
older K3's,
but have no way to confirm this.

I understand your frustration, I have the same sense of disappointment, and
wonder what to do,
I have been going back to my K2 as it is totally trouble free.

Chris
VK2ACD
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Re: [Elecraft] K3 Erratic VFO behaviour, Switching bands and freq's

2016-09-19 Thread Ian White
Ron wrote:
>
>Mark makes an excellent point but a special anti-static pad is not
required
>for a simple procedure like this. However, simply unplugging and
replacing
>the FP does not require touching anything inside the K3, so there's no
>danger.
>
>If you need to touch the pins on the connectors or anything inside the
K3, a
>good workable option to the anti-static mat is to simply touch a ground
>frequently while working.
>

Sorry, I would strongly disagree. Removing the front panel is when you
need an anti-static mat and wrist strap the MOST. 

* You are separating two quite large assemblies, each of which is
capable of holding a significant charge (and each of which cost several
hundred dollars).

* You're just about to expose a large number of unprotected internal
connector pins.

* And in all probability, you're just about to *touch* every one of
those pins when applying antioxidant.

This really is NOT a good moment to skip the static protection.  

Also, "touching a ground" is fundamentally NOT what static protection is
about! It's about safely CONNECTING EVERYTHING TOGETHER (including the
operator) to discharge any potential differences. This includes keeping
them connected together, even while subassemblies like the front panel
are being unplugged. 

In this context, the word "safely" includes the use of high-resistance
materials and connecting leads, to avoid damaging discharge currents and
minimize the risk of electric shock to the operator. That is why the
operator is connected through a *high* resistance to ground - and also
why "touching ground" can actually do damage.


Note to Pete, G0PNM: in the UK, Contralube 770 (from Maplin) has proved
to be an excellent alternative to Deoxit.


73 from Ian GM3SEK


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