Re: [Elecraft] Nasty spurs on RX with new KPA500

[David Cutter via Elecraft]

A pound to a pinch of salt it's a poor connector.
David G3UNA

-Original Message-
From: elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net
[mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of Andy Durbin
Sent: 09 March 2019 14:45
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: [Elecraft] Nasty spurs on RX with new KPA500

Nothing heard or seen on 10 m with my kit built KPA500.

I'd suggest disconnecting the RX from the KPA500 and connecting it directly
to the antenna.   Does the problem go away?
If not, connect the RX directly to the dummy load.  Does the problem go
away?
If not,  disconnect everything else from the KPA500 except the power cord.
Does the problem go away?
If not, connect the KPA500 to an outlet on a different circuit.  Does the
problem go away?

Hopefully, one of these steps will give some information on the source of
the problem.

73,
Andy, k3wyc





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Re: [Elecraft] Conditions, shmonditions: DXing anyway

[David Cutter via Elecraft]

On a related tack, I am often surprised at how high the radio volume has
become in the club shack.  On turning it down, it is quite a relief on the
ears and yet perception of the signal we are listening to improves.  It is
also significant that a separate loudspeaker on a shelf being more in line
with our ears provides significant improvement in our ability to "hear" the
station.  Louder is not better.

David G3UNA 

-Original Message-
From: elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net
[mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of Wayne Burdick
Sent: 21 September 2018 04:07
To: Elecraft Reflector
Subject: [Elecraft] Conditions, shmonditions: DXing anyway

Tonight I heard a very weak CW CQ on 7.007 MHz right around sundown --
LA1MFA (Norway). With the filtering on the K3S dialed down to 100 Hz, 30 Hz
audio peaking filter (APF) turned on, and the noise blanker optimized, he
was readable. I called and he came right back to me. 

I would normally have tried this at 10 watts first, but something about the
tenuous nature of conditions these days had me cranking the power up to 100
W from the get-go. 

Despite requiring "full" power to make this contact, it was a reminder that
DX is out there if you tune slowly

On a related topic, I discovered that as a guy of a certain age, 400 Hz may
be a better pitch for copying weak signals than my usual 550 Hz. This could
be a well-understood psychoacoustic phenomenon, but it came as a pleasant
surprise.

73,
Wayne
N6KR


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Re: [Elecraft] internet speed for remote K3S

[David Cutter via Elecraft]

Thanks, Paul.  My question was naive in only asking for speed.  Several have
pointed out that latency is probably more important because the speed is
easy to attain.  I need to translate this to the characteristics that the
providers use, eg ping, which I know little about.  From advice I have
received here and elsewhere it looks like I will be safe to continue with
the project and to concentrate on achieving the lowest latency at each end -
for that I will call upon further advice. 

73 David G3UNA

-Original Message-
From: elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net
[mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of Paul Christensen
Sent: 02 September 2018 14:01
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: [Elecraft] internet speed for remote K3S

>"My experience is exactly that; look out for latency; that is the killer."

Apart from use with satellite-based services (e.g., Hughes, maritime VSAT,
etc.), I've found latency is reasonably low even from hotel and 4G
connections.  Jitter will almost always be the dominating factor, especially
when using a remote CW connection.   I won't even try satellite remoting;
it's a horrible experience.  From home or when roaming on my iPhone 's WiFi
hotspot connection, my QSK CW experience is almost as good as a local
connection.  The remote site is on Verizon 4G/LTE service with a 30 GB/month
plan.  

I use PingPlotter software that shows typical ping time under 50 ms. from
home to my remote site about 30 miles away.  The longest measured latency is
the link between the Verizon cell site and the 4G router at the shack.  That
comprises about 50% of the total latency.  In between, the service changes
hands among several internet transport providers.  I just ran a quick test
and see 12 hops before it gets to the destination.  The path changes from
day-to-day.

Back to the OP's question of "what speed will give satisfactory results?"
Assuming a K3 with RemoteRig, look at the RemoteRig manual, Appendix A for a
table that illustrates data consumption as a function of bit rate and
whether dual-channel audio is engaged.  For example, 12-bit linear, 2
channel audio (for dual receive) requires 240 kbps.  That's not much data.
Of course, there's going to be other overhead when running applications on
the same link.  Any of the high speed "light" packages will work fine with
the RemoteRig unless using high bit-rate settings.  I've noticed no
operating issues when using an account with 1.5 Mbps download and 500 kbps
upload speeds and when either VNC or TeamViewer is running in the
background.  My iPhone's WiFi hotspot typically gives 10/5 Mbps service as
long as there's ample 4G/LTE signal strength.

Paul, W9AC



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[Elecraft] internet speed for remote K3S

[David Cutter via Elecraft]

I will soon be building a remote control station about 20miles away.  Both
stations have access to broadband, but what speed will give satisfactory
results?  
tnx and 73
David G3UNA

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[Elecraft] P3 *remote* panadapter

[David Cutter via Elecraft]

Am I correct in thinking that the P3 is the only way to obtain a *remote*
panadapter with the K3S?  ie this cannot be done with some other sdr
combination as has been suggested for home operation?

 

David G3UNA

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Re: [Elecraft] OT - The HeyPhone

[David Cutter via Elecraft]

Is it radio?  The Heyphone relied on magnetic coupling between a loop
underground and another on the surface.  At the  time the distance was in
the 100 to 200m range, ie too short to form an electromagnetic wave,
therefore not radio.  It's an interesting subject.

David G3UNA
 

-Original Message-
From: elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net
[mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of Bill Frantz
Sent: 13 July 2018 16:33
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] OT - The HeyPhone

For those that might be interested in further information about underground
radio communications, the National Speleological Society's Communication and
Electronics section has placed back issues of its publication online for
free down load at:

   

Some of the European radios have had problems in the US because they are
sensitive to the harmonics of our 60 Hz power.

73 Bill AE6JV 

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Re: [Elecraft] OT - The HeyPhone

[David Cutter via Elecraft]

I liaised with John around 25 years ago to set up what we thought would be a
unique event: communicating from underground in Stump Cross Caverns North
Yorkshire, to an HF station on ground, then to the world.  We had a couple
dozen scouts and members of my club helping at the event for  JOTA.  We ran
out of time before we solved all the little issues but it was an intersting
experiment.  He was using an original Hey Phone and wasn't sure if it was
legal - I thought it was arguably not a radio wave, ie could propagate into
space.  At the time we were licensed for 73kHz but that was too close to big
inerferers, Rugby I think, hence moving up a little.  
David G3UNA Ripon ADARS

-Original Message-
From: elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net
[mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of Charlie T
Sent: 13 July 2018 08:13
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] OT - The HeyPhone

When you click on the link, be sure to capture BOTH lines because if you
simply click on top line, it will NOT add the second line and will come back
with a "file-not-found" pop-up.

73, Charlie k3ICH





-Original Message-
From: elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net  On
Behalf Of Mike Flowers
Sent: Friday, July 13, 2018 10:50 AM
To: 'Elecraft Reflector' 
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] OT - The HeyPhone

http://www.arrl.org/news/radio-technology-designed-by-radio-amateur-used-in-
thailand-cave-rescue


- 73 and good DX de Mike, K6MKF, Past President - NCDXC 

> -Original Message-
> From: elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net 
> 
> On Behalf Of Michael Bower
> Sent: Friday, July 13, 2018 7:48 AM
> To: eda...@law.du.edu
> Cc: Elecraft 
> Subject: Re: [Elecraft] OT - The HeyPhone
> 
> If this article is for public consumption (not just ARRL members), 
> could
you please
> post a link?
> 
> If not for public consumption, they missed a great opportunity.
> 
> Michael N4NMR
> 
> 
> On Fri, Jul 13, 2018 at 10:29 AM Dauer, Edward  wrote:
> 
> > Interesting article on the ARRL web site this morning about 
> > communications assisting the Thailand cave rescue using 87 KHz SSB.
> >
> > Ted, KN1CBR
> >
> >
> > __
> > Elecraft mailing list
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> >
> > This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this 
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> > list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html Message delivered to 
> > mbo...@bbunch.org
> >
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Message
> delivered to mike.flow...@gmail.com

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Re: [Elecraft] [OT] The Ultimate List of Hobbies for Men

[David Cutter via Elecraft]

I teach modern jive which is now far more popular than ballroom dancing 
which I trained in in my 20's.  Now in my 70's this has a very healthy 
following and is far easier to learn without private lessons.  I met both my 
XYLs (40 years apart) at dance venues. Mostly popular with >40 year-olds.


David
G3UNA

- Original Message - 
From: "Edward R Cole" 

To: "Elecraft Reflector" 
Sent: Monday, March 05, 2018 10:01 AM
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] [OT] The Ultimate List of Hobbies for Men



done 27, but many not currently
Ball room dancing class in college was a great way to meet women!

73, Ed - KL7UW
  http://www.kl7uw.com
Dubus-NA Business mail:
  dubus...@gmail.com
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Re: [Elecraft] DC insertion into antenna coax

[David Cutter via Elecraft]

Glad you raised that, Ted. It reminds me of another application in which I
wanted a slower rise and fall time for an inductive load. My solution was to 
add a small capacitor between base and collector

of the drive transistor which also meant I did not need the protective.
diode.

David
G3UNA

- Original Message - 
From: "Dauer, Edward" 

To: 
Sent: Wednesday, November 15, 2017 8:40 PM
Subject: [Elecraft] DC insertion into antenna coax


I would be careful about running DC through the coax.  Rapid rise and fall 
times of the DC voltage can generate RF spikes, and the collapse of the 
field in a DC relay if there is one at the business end can produce high 
instantaneous voltages back down to the rig end of the feedline.


There are diode and capacitor-based circuit protections that can prevent 
this, but those phenomena were the prime suspects for why a remote antenna 
switch using DC inserted into the coax blew away the PA transistors and 
associated circuitry three times in a K2, until I trashed the switch.  I 
can’t describe exactly what the protection circuits are, though as I 
recall they are pretty simple.  Should be something in the archives about 
it from a couple of years ago.


Ted, KN1CBR
   --

   Message: 23
   Date: Wed, 15 Nov 2017 10:42:19 -0800
   From: Steve Sergeant 
   To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
   Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Using T1 with KX2 or KX3
   Message-ID: <1c1e1830-5ccc-d81e-5da7-8c2594673...@effable.com>
   Content-Type: text/plain; charset=utf-8

   Hmmm. That means that it should be trivial to make a DC-blocking 
circuit

   that would allow you to pull the ring of J3 to DC (and not RF) ground
   over the coax to initiate tuning. Then you would have part of the 
remote

   control puzzle solved.

   That's nearly enough to finally get me to buy a T1.




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Re: [Elecraft] Camino de Santiago portable operation from Spain

[David Cutter via Elecraft]

I worked from southern Spain back to GD with a KX1 running 4W from a pocket 
battery pack using a 9m fishing pole and an "offset Y" 20m dipole made from 
tv twin right into the banana splitter. For trekking long distances I would 
go for a much smaller and lighter weight pole and an easier aerial to put 
up. It's how you carry poles that make it manageable or just a pain. On 20m 
you can run flat twin with little loss and it's easy to fold up into your 
pocket.


David
G3UNA

- Original Message - 
From: "Ignacy" 

To: 
Sent: Thursday, August 17, 2017 3:38 PM
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Camino de Santiago portable operation from Spain



That would be lots of fun. But hamming is for your own satisfaction.

Walking with weight is an issue so KX2 is better. I would take wires and
perhaps a small collapsible pole. E.g., a 17ft pole that collapses to 1.5 
ft

and weighs 4 oz.

Years ago I hiked Pico de Europa in EA1 not far away from the trail and 
made
a few CW contacts with KX1 by spreading antenna wires on rocks. KX1 is 
light

but only 2 W.

Ignacy, NO9E 


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Re: [Elecraft] [K3] Using K3 for relative noise survey

[David Cutter via Elecraft]

Here's what I found on the Wayback machine:
https://web.archive.org/web/20161216101425/http://www.crosscountrywireless.net/sentinel_sdr_program.htm

Hope the page opens for you

I used the system for a year or so, but my then XP machines all died.  He 
has re-designed the system with W10 compatibility so I intend to re-start my 
monitoring using a cheap W10 tablet, which I'm hoping will have a longer 
life!


David
G3UNA

- Original Message - 
From: "Wes Stewart" <wes_n...@triconet.org>

To: <elecraft@mailman.qth.net>
Sent: Friday, August 04, 2017 5:45 PM
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] [K3] Using K3 for relative noise survey



They should fix some links on this site.

On 8/4/2017 2:26 AM, David Cutter via Elecraft wrote:
Apologies for taking this away from Elecraft topic, however, you might be 
interested in a specific noise measurement system here:

http://www.crosscountrywireless.net/sentinel_2_sdr.htm
in which a *calibrated* sdr is programmed to continuously listen on 5 
unused HF frequencies and report to APRS every 10s.

Also:
http://g4fkh.co.uk/projects/noise-measuring-campaign/

David
G3UNA


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Re: [Elecraft] [K3] Using K3 for relative noise survey

[David Cutter via Elecraft]

Apologies for taking this away from Elecraft topic, however, you might be 
interested in a specific noise measurement system here:

http://www.crosscountrywireless.net/sentinel_2_sdr.htm
in which a *calibrated* sdr is programmed to continuously listen on 5 unused 
HF frequencies and report to APRS every 10s.

Also:
http://g4fkh.co.uk/projects/noise-measuring-campaign/

David
G3UNA

- Original Message - 
From: "Mel Farrer via Elecraft" 

To: "Rick Miller - N1RM" ; 
Sent: Wednesday, August 02, 2017 1:09 AM
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] [K3] Using K3 for relative noise survey



Rick,
While it is not easy, you should put in the agenda checking it day and 
night. I found very different noise profiles that way

Mel, K6KBE

 From: Rick Miller - N1RM 
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Sent: Tuesday, August 1, 2017 3:54 PM
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] [K3] Using K3 for relative noise survey

Thanks for all the info!

It turns out I have an RSP2 and now have it running with HDSDR in "slow"
waterfall mode. I'm now looking for a way to control the front end options
of the RSP2 - nothing seems to be built into HDSDR to do that, but that's 
a
topic for another mail list. BTW - I conveniently have an EXCELLENT 
Clifton
Labs 1800 KHz AMBC high pass filter that sure tames the input dynamic 
range

when measuring 160M.

I will also try the suggestions for different ways to record signal 
strength

on the K3.

Thanks again,
Rick
N1RM 


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Re: [Elecraft] Counterpoises and Grounding

[David Cutter]

Hello Stan

My note is a little off topic because I like to remove the counterpoise all 
together by addressing the issue of common mode current.


I thought that, rather than getting embroiled with definitions, I would 
offer something different. You don't say what bands you operate but your 
crucial point is you are up in the sky so to speak and I've been there and 
suffered accordingly.


*Until recently* no commercial antenna manufacturer had conquered the mighty 
common mode current problem of the off-centre-fed dipole.  Since you run QRP 
you don't need anything big or heavy duty, you might consider the offerings 
from Spiderbeam. They currently do a 40m version which covers all bands to 
6m and your KX3 will handle any slight mis-match with ease.  A friend of 
mine ran one of these as a sloper out of his window using a KX3 and got 
excellent results.  No external tuning box or counterpoise is necessary, 
it's all handled in the special dual choke balun.  I understand they are 
working on an 80m version. I have no commercial connection with the company.


If you prefer to build your own aerials, then you can see the website for 
DJ0IP who in my opinion is now the world authority on these aerials having 
done more research and *practical testing* than anyone.  I doubt if that's 
an exaggeration.  On his website you will see how to make your own quite 
inexpensively.  There is also a lively and progressive forum dedicated to 
the ocfd.


If you would like to know more, do get in touch.

73

David
G3UNA

ps I use a special version of the ocfd called the end-connected off centre 
fed dipole.


- Original Message - 
From: "Stan GW3SRM" 

To: 
Sent: Saturday, June 10, 2017 7:40 PM
Subject: [Elecraft] Counterpoises and Grounding


I note that the subject of counterpoises has been debated many times in 
this

forum but I have not seen the subject of tuneable artificial grounds
discussed. As no doubt many are aware, operating from a location remote 
from
the ground has its problems in ensuring effective grounding, especially 
with

end fed wire antennas. I have this problem as I operate from an upstairs
shack. I have overcome the difficulty by using a tuneable counterpoise
arrangement in conjunction with my end fed wire antenna. The EFW antenna 
is

approximately 66ft (20m) long and the counterpoise wire 16ft (5m).

Using my homebrew AGT and my KX3 is a simple process to tune for 
resonance.
a) Tune to the desired frequency using the internal KX3 auto tuner. b) 
Tune
for maximum current using the AGT meter (low power recommended for 
tuning).

Repeat the process as necessary to obtain best match. Usually 1:0 or 1:1
(KX3 reading). I only operate with 5 or 10 Watts. Apart from overcoming
grounding problems you get a resonate grounding system not an 
approximately

resonate one as used in most circumstances. This in my view, is a suitable
compromise in overcoming difficult grounding conditions, although I do not
advocate it in preference to an extensive grounding system where 
conditions

permit. One point to note is that if an external power supply is used the
output must be isolated from ground and suitable precautions taken against
lighting strikes. Many designs for simple homebrew AFT projects are
available on the web and MFJ also do one commercially. Obviously different
or different multiple lengths of counterpoise wires can be used to get the
best setup with your antenna.



73 Stan GW3SRM



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[Elecraft] XG3 and short whip as an air standard

[David Cutter]

The XG3 has a calibrated output into a 50ohm load and can be varied over a wide 
range of power and frequency.  How can I use this as a standard source for 
field strength measurements?  

For instance, could I build passive networks to match a whip to the XG3 on each 
band of interest and calculate the radiation from the whip knowing its input 
from the network?  Since the XG3 output is variable, the loss in the networks 
can be adjusted to suit.  

Could I use, say a *standard* 1m copper wire whip (ie <<1wavelength on HF) to 
easily obtain uV/m? It could all be mounted in a biscuit tin as I once saw in a 
magazine many years ago.  Connecting a similar whip to the K3 with its 
calibrated dBm facility, I'm hoping this could all connect together in a modest 
home facility for experimentation and learning.  

David
G3UNA
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[Elecraft] OT: anti-static mat advice

[David Cutter]

Just received a new black mat and it has an extremely strong rubber smell; I 
wouldn't mind some but this is obnoxious and I can't use it in the house, so 
I'm about to reject it.  I get the feeling that it is not completely cured.  I 
bought it from a good company but just thought I would ask the folks on the 
list if they've ever had this experience.  My previous mat (grey, can't 
remember who borrowed it) didn't smell at all. 

73

David
G3UNA 
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Re: [Elecraft] K3 audio quality

[David Cutter]

I stand a stiff cardboard box (for my Kent paddle) behind the speaker and 
that throws the sound toward me. The K3 speaker in an external box would be 
very good. I have Pyle battery powered speakers which are also excellent and 
very small as advised on the list some while ago.

David
G3UNA


High frequencies propagate in a straight line from a speaker, so a speaker 
facing upward loses 'presence'. Also the K3 speaker is a small speaker in 
a small box. An external speaker, facing the operator, will help a great 
deal.


Vic 4X6GP 


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Re: [Elecraft] In case you missed it.

[David Cutter]

I was recently infected by a bad dose of ransomwear.  I don't know it's 
source but it could easily have been something I incautiously opened - I 
don't think so, but..  I tell my friends to always use the BCC function and 
if they don't I won't open their male anymore.  I didn't open that link just 
in case.  Big message - do frequent back-ups *and disconnect your back-up 
drive*.


David
G3UNA



Ron, you had more courage than I did to open a link in a posting that 
looked like 100-percent spam...or much worse.  Such a posting with a link 
so vaguely and suspiciously described is high school kid stuff.


I looked to see what you were addressing.  The excerpt with faux subtitles 
is from the 2004 German film "Der Untergang" ("Downfall" in English), a 
most excellently-made historical film.  But it has long been a banal 
cliche to use this excerpt with many different allegedly humorous but 
always sophomoric subtitles.


So...note to list members...the link in the original posting takes you to 
an "angry Hitler" rant from "Der Untergang" that is subtitled to have the 
KX3 and QRP as its subject.  Ha Ha.


Mike / KK5F


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Re: [Elecraft] RFI and Direct tv or Dish network

[David Cutter]

Some OCF dipoles work very well when used with a 2-choke balun, see DJ0IP for 
suitable designs.  Spiderbeam make proper 2-choke baluns for their OCF dipoles 
but I don't know of any others.   It's all about suppressing those common mode 
currents on the outside of the coax.  He and I have both measured common mode 
currents with different chokes; see his site for details.  
http://www.dj0ip.de/balun-stuff/

David
G3UNA


- Original Message - 
From: "Warren Merkel" 
To: 
Sent: Wednesday, May 18, 2016 1:23 PM
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] RFI and Direct tv or Dish network


>I have a DirecTV system and haven't had as good luck with RFI as the
> others here.   My dish is about 40 feet directly below and near the end
> of an OCF 80m Windom.   It worked out that was the only realistic
> position that afforded full Sat views through the trees. 
> 
> Usually nothing happens at 100w HF output, but when I run the power up
> to 500w (depending on band), two of my DVRs either "turn off" (standby
> really) or start randomly recording whatever channel is being tuned at
> the time.  I've got the dish grounded and the RG6 feed is passed
> multiple passes through large #31 ferrites, with no overall improvement
> in RFI.
> 
> I would recommend much more separation of antennas and feedline than I
> have, if possible.
> 
> Warren, KD4Z
> 
> On 5/17/2016 10:08 PM, w9hak  wrote:
> I am contemplating dropping TWC and going to a satellite system. Any
> 
> advise on rfi would be appreciated.
> 
> Smith Bradford
> W9HAK
> 
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Re: [Elecraft] Raspberry PI 3 and K3

[David Cutter]

A friend recently bought an iRulu tablet for £16 including postage, attached 
a Bluetooth converter for £17, some software for £3.50 and was able to 
control his 817 from inside a tent. I'm looking forward to seeing that on 
Elecraft gear.


David
G3UNA


The trouble with pi-top is that the screen and keyboard, and general fit
and finish aren't that great. If there's Android software that can meet
your needs, you'll get more power, better screen, better construction, and
a better keyboard by picking up an older model Nexus tablet and a matching
Bluetooth keyboard.

My ideal portable rig just for digital modes would be a battery powered 
PX3

with the smallest, cheapest USB keyboard I could find. But, I assume if
Elecraft could have put batteries in the PX3 they would have.


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Re: [Elecraft] Slighty off topic - 80 meter second harmnic how to stop

[David Cutter]

I understand that small ferrites are easily overloaded and become non-linear 
generating harmonics and injecting a signal back into the wire from whence 
they came.  You might have sleeve chokes on all sorts of wires, keying 
lines, keyboard cables, video cables, the wall clock, lighting, etc.


David, G3UNA

- Original Message - 
From: "Jim Brown" 

To: 
Sent: Tuesday, February 23, 2016 4:42 AM
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Slighty off topic - 80 meter second harmnic how to 
stop



When I posted on this issue to another list, W3LPL responded that it's 
fairly common for harmonics with this sort of characteristic to be 
generated in active electronics like switching power supplies.  Sort of 
identifying which is the culprit and choking every cable connected to it, 
there's no solution.


73, Jim K9YC 


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Re: [Elecraft] Remoting KAT500 to base of antenna

[David Cutter]

Yes, but the weight of water eventually pushes it through - it's cheap but 
not perfect. If you use a 20mm fitting as I did back then, water accumulates 
inside until a large droplet forms then exits. The Gortex is better but more 
$ £.


David, G3UNA


- Original Message - 
From: "Lewis Phelps" <l...@n6lew.us>

To: <Elecraft@mailman.qth.net>
Sent: Wednesday, January 20, 2016 8:03 PM
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Remoting KAT500 to base of antenna



But might not this re-introduce the surface tension problem?

Lew N6LEW



On Jan 20, 2016, at 10:18 AM, David Cutter <d.cut...@ntlworld.com> wrote:

From my work in the food industry (if memory serves), critter invasion is 
prevented with 0.64mm square nylon netting.  This is common in the 
dress-making industry.  (I think it can also be found as a stainless 
steel gauze). This can be glued over a breather (drip) hole in the base.


David
G3UNA


- Original Message - From: "Edward R Cole" <kl...@acsalaska.net 
<mailto:kl...@acsalaska.net>>

To: <Elecraft@mailman.qth.net <mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net>>
Sent: Wednesday, January 20, 2016 8:29 AM
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Remoting KAT500 to base of antenna



Fred,

Your high desert climate will probably produce less condensation than my 
sub-arctic/maritime environ.  What I do for enclosures is to not seal 
them airtight but provide good drain openings which air can exchange. 
Of course the shelter is made to repel direct rain/snow.


I suspected that my TR relays were "freezing up" at lower temps making 
the action delayed so I used some big aluminum  Dale resistor strapped 
onto the relays to add direct heat by conduction.  I happen to have 28v 
equipment so used 28v thru the resistors to produce heat within their 
wattage rating (used 40w resistors at both relays).  Of course this also 
provided some heating of the ambient air of the enclosure which helped 
keep moisture from forming even in 90% humidity of the fall.  It rains 
8-days with one day off from August to October when temps finally drop 
below freezing and rain becomes snow.  You don't have anything near 
that.


One thing I have noticed about drain holes in some equipment is they are 
too small to allow water to drop free due to surface tension and in my 
environ that results in the weep holes freezing tight.  I drill them out 
to 1/4 inch.  Of course if you are prone to insect/archnid invasion that 
is problematic.


PS: I lived five years in the high Mojave Desert so know all about 
"critters of the desert" (never stick your hand into a confined space 
before kicking it to see what crawls out or "rattles"!


73, Ed - KL7UW
--

3.  Reno/Sparks is a high desert [4,500'] directly adjacent to the
Carson Range and Sierra Nevada [really big mountains].  Winter temps go
down into single digits, it does snow/rain.  Should I do anything to
prevent condensation in the weatherproof box [light bulb, drain hole, 
???].


73,

Fred K6DGW
- Northern California Contest Club
- CU in the Cal QSO Party 1-2 Oct 2016
- www.cqp.org


73, Ed - KL7UW
http://www.kl7uw.com
   "Kits made by KL7UW"
Dubus Mag business:
   dubus...@gmail.com

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<mailto:d.cut...@ntlworld.com>


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Message delivered to l...@n6lew.us <mailto:l...@n6lew.us>

Lew Phelps N6LEW
Pasadena, CA DM04wd
Elecraft K3-10 / KXV144 / XV432
Yaesu FT-7800
l...@n6lew.us
www.n6lew.us

Generalized Law of Entropy: Sooner or later, everything that has been put 
together will fall apart.






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Re: [Elecraft] Remoting KAT500 to base of antenna

[David Cutter]

From my work in the food industry (if memory serves), critter invasion is 
prevented with 0.64mm square nylon netting.  This is common in the 
dress-making industry.  (I think it can also be found as a stainless steel 
gauze).  This can be glued over a breather (drip) hole in the base.


David
G3UNA


- Original Message - 
From: "Edward R Cole" 

To: 
Sent: Wednesday, January 20, 2016 8:29 AM
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Remoting KAT500 to base of antenna



Fred,

Your high desert climate will probably produce less condensation than my 
sub-arctic/maritime environ.  What I do for enclosures is to not seal them 
airtight but provide good drain openings which air can exchange.  Of 
course the shelter is made to repel direct rain/snow.


I suspected that my TR relays were "freezing up" at lower temps making the 
action delayed so I used some big aluminum  Dale resistor strapped onto 
the relays to add direct heat by conduction.  I happen to have 28v 
equipment so used 28v thru the resistors to produce heat within their 
wattage rating (used 40w resistors at both relays).  Of course this also 
provided some heating of the ambient air of the enclosure which helped 
keep moisture from forming even in 90% humidity of the fall.  It rains 
8-days with one day off from August to October when temps finally drop 
below freezing and rain becomes snow.  You don't have anything near that.


One thing I have noticed about drain holes in some equipment is they are 
too small to allow water to drop free due to surface tension and in my 
environ that results in the weep holes freezing tight.  I drill them out 
to 1/4 inch.  Of course if you are prone to insect/archnid invasion that 
is problematic.


PS: I lived five years in the high Mojave Desert so know all about 
"critters of the desert" (never stick your hand into a confined space 
before kicking it to see what crawls out or "rattles"!


73, Ed - KL7UW
--

3.  Reno/Sparks is a high desert [4,500'] directly adjacent to the
Carson Range and Sierra Nevada [really big mountains].  Winter temps go
down into single digits, it does snow/rain.  Should I do anything to
prevent condensation in the weatherproof box [light bulb, drain hole, 
???].


73,

Fred K6DGW
- Northern California Contest Club
- CU in the Cal QSO Party 1-2 Oct 2016
- www.cqp.org


73, Ed - KL7UW
http://www.kl7uw.com
"Kits made by KL7UW"
Dubus Mag business:
dubus...@gmail.com

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Re: [Elecraft] Which hand-held PTT switch? OT

[David Cutter]

Sorry for the thread drift, but, has there ever been an investigation into 
response time of hitting the PTT and beginning to speak?  Occasionally I 
hear the first syllable being lost and I've wondered if this is due to time 
delays in the equipment or the user, or both.  Brings back memories of 
bucket-brigade delay-lines.


73
David
G3UNA 


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Re: [Elecraft] K3- 630 meters

[David Cutter]

Amazing Ken

How much power did you deliver to the aerial system to get 5W ERP?

David
G3UNA


- Original Message - 
From: Wayne Burdick n...@elecraft.com

To: Ken Roberson kwrober...@yahoo.com
Cc: Elecraft Reflector elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Sent: Tuesday, August 18, 2015 5:50 PM
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] K3- 630 meters



Amazing, Ken! Thanks for the report.

Wayne
N6KR


On Aug 18, 2015, at 7:43 AM, Ken Roberson via Elecraft 
elecraft@mailman.qth.net wrote:



Hello all,
Good condx on 630 meters
With the K3 and homebrew power amp running 5 watts ERP on 630 meters ( 
475.710 khz )And 60 ft vertical with top loading.
Last night ( 8/18/15 ) this station was decoded by two stations in 
Australia ( VK2DDI - 13987 km )And ( VK2XGJ - 13962 km ).

630M is the new top band.
73 all K5DNL/WG2XXM




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Re: [Elecraft] Paper Logs (was Audio mixers)

[David Cutter]

We hear a lot of criticism of paper logging but those teams of operator, 
logger, check-logger 1, 2, 3 were great training for operators-to-be.  I 
first started on field day as 3rd check-logger at the age of 10.  A 
loudspeaker had to be on so we could all hear incoming traffic and that 
meant that visitors could hear and appreciate what was going on with all 
this activity.  Nowadays, the lone operator has his back to visitors who 
have to keep quiet and all they see is a complicated rolling screen(s) of 
characters.  I wouldn't go back, but I feel some fun for the rest of the 
team has diminished somewhat.


3rd check-logger also made the tea on the Primus stove.  We were limited to 
10W input in those days and nobody had heard of emc.

73
David
G3UNA


- Original Message - 
From: Walter Underwood wun...@wunderwood.org

To: Elecraft Reflector elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Sent: Saturday, July 04, 2015 5:48 AM
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Paper Logs (was Audio mixers)


Paper logging is pretty common for emergency communications. Unlike 
contests, the messages can be anything. It is common to have a net control 
and scribe working as a team.


Most of the time, that can be done with a simple headphone distribution amp, 
but there are fancier setups.


wunder
K6WRU
CM87wj
http://observer.wunderwood.org/ (my blog)

On Jul 3, 2015, at 10:08 PM, Jack Brindle jackbrin...@me.com wrote:

Lyle, I seriously doubt that, given the task of having to dupe and 
cross-check 500 or a thousand QSOs in a contest, that even you would be so 
nostalgic as to do it with the paper dupe sheets we used to have to use. 
These days if you are logging on paper you have already lost the contest…


73,

Jack, W6FB (who likewise is remembering all the folks, some close 
relations, who sacrificed for our freedom).

(and enjoys ribbing my good friend and co-worker...)



On Jul 3, 2015, at 8:24 PM, Lyle Johnson kk7p4...@gmail.com wrote:

Or, some guys just prefer to do it with paper and pencil.  I have lots of 
ebooks, but I often prefer to grab a physical, printed-on-paper book and 
curl up on the sofa and read.


Heck, I've even heard some guys are so stuck in the past they actually 
use CW on HF


73,

Lyle KK7P (who is enjoying our independence and not forgetting the price 
paid for it)


Not singling you out or anything but I've often wondered why you need 
separate operator and logger?  This seems to be a practice peculiar to 
FD


Yes, this is a practice that goes back to #2 pencil logging and paper 
dupe sheets. The first FD I was on, probably 1955 (a few months before I 
was licensed) was done that way. Once computer logging came into 
existence, there was no good reason for it, but some guys are stuck in 
the past.


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Re: [Elecraft] P3 Housing

[David Cutter]

Will a Remote Rig or similar interface fit inside a P3? It would save a bit 
of desk space which might be useful for portable/remote operations.  I 
believe the P3 is not itself remotable except by camera but that's a start.


Similar thinking for K3/0.  These are at each end of the remote link and I 
can envisage very cramped conditions for an operation in which the K3's 
small size is well suited.


David
G3UNA 


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Re: [Elecraft] Musings: KX1 and a Compromise Antenna

[David Cutter]

I used mine in a field day contest last summer and logged 60 stations in an 
afternoon from a garden table and a 20m sloping dipole at 15ft.  Fun in the 
sun.


David
G3UNA
G6CP

- Original Message - 
From: J tsc...@gmail.com



I had to take my primary HF station out-of-service, and rather than suffer
withdrawal, got my KX1 out of mothball and put it on the air.

My current HF antenna is a Barker and Williamson ACS110, a terminated
end-fed Vee which is similar to the Radiowavz EFT-110.

I wasn't expecting a lot from this type of antenna and my three watts. 
It's

more suited to 100-1000 watt operation, MARS, E-Comm, it covers all of
1.8-30 MHz.

I was pleased that I did not need the internal KX1 ATU running on 40, 30 
and

20 M with my antenna.


In a week of very casual operation, I worked more stations on the KX1 than 
I

had since its completion in 2005.  Most contacts were CONUS with the

Exception of HI, and several contacts were QRP-to-QRP on 40 and 30M.

I was pleased with the audio and filtering in the KX-1, whether it was
driving earbuds or an amplified computer speaker.  The adjustable crystal
filter produced non-fatiguing CW copy.


It was enjoyable to put the fancy radio station away and get back to 
basics.


73

Jay

W6CJ 


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Re: [Elecraft] Seperate Receive Antenna

[David Cutter]

Thanks, Jim, that's opened out the discussion very well for me.  I am not 
able to determine how bad this makes the performance, since the output is 
floating and I think hardly susceptible to common mode problems.  I'm in the 
market for such antennas but most are outside my budget.  I would like to 
have 2 loops (could be large loops)  a half wavelength apart for diversity 
reception on 160 and this system with its delay line might do that 
economically.  2  amplified receive aerials (eg from CCW here in UK) with a 
phasing box would also be economical.  The next on my list is the shared 
apex.


thanks again for the link

73

David
G3UNA

Subject: RE: [Elecraft] Seperate Receive Antenna


Dave,

Here is the quote from W8JI


Start quote


10-29-2011, 05:36 PM #8

W8JI


Quote Originally Posted by WV6U View Post

Here is one broadband RX loop design that I found very interesting and 
something worth trying out. Once I am done with my TX loop for 40-15m, maybe 
I will start with this


http://lz1aq.signacor.com/docs/wsml/...op-antenna.htm

I would not use that system in the link.

While a good analysis, the amplifier is ground referenced. It is not a 
ground independent differential input. An ideal amplifier should have ZERO 
output if one loop terminal was open circuited. Otherwise, it has less than 
perfect common mode rejection.


Bandwidth of the loop vs. noise is a myth. The only reasons a narrow loop 
bandwidth, or any antenna or amplifier bandwidth, would ever reduce noise or 
interference are when at least one of two conditions are met:


1.) The receiver IF filter is wider than bandwidth of the pre-receiver 
system. This helps because overall bandwidth is reduced. 1/2 bandwidth= 3dB 
less noise if the signal is still narrower than the narrowest bandwidth


2.) Something in a stage in front of the receiver narrow filter is 
overloading, and the system in front of the receiver is narrow enough to 
reduce the unwanted signal and stop or reduce the overload


73 Tom


End 
Quote


The link to the above quote is

http://forums.qrz.com/showthread.php?318414-Magnetic-Loop-RX-Antennas


Jim 


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Re: [Elecraft] Seperate Receive Antenna

[David Cutter]

Jim

How did you determine that the LZ1AQ amplifier is not a differential amp? 
the diagrams lead me to believe that it has differential inputs.  Page 29 
shows the specification item 10 which states that the inputs are balanced. 
What am I missing, where should I be looking?


73

David
G3UNA



On Jan 31, 2015, at 6:02 PM, jim jbol...@outlook.com wrote:


The LZ1AQ amplifier is NOT a differential input amp, rather it is 
referenced to ground.


This can have significant issues as it relates to common mode noise.

As a result of my research, I ended up with a Pixel loop.  The amp has 
great characteristics, differential input, uses an A.C.  wallwart for low 
noise, and the install instructions isolate the amp from any ground.


The loop interface also has a control line input from your rig, that 
controls an internal relay, so the amp is protected when you transmit. 
The loop was designed by hams.


The mechanical design of the loop is excellent, using welds at the 
aluminum joints.


I have no interest in the Pixel company, just a very satisfied customer. 
So satisfied, I bought two of them and phase them with a DX Engineering 
NCC-1 phaser.


Jim
W6AIM



-Original Message-
From: Elecraft [mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of 
Wouter Jan Ubbels

Sent: Saturday, January 31, 2015 12:28 PM
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Elecraft Digest, Vol 129, Issue 41

Hi Paul,

I can recommend LZ1AQ´s active loop antenna.
See

http://active-antenna.eu/

It offers a nice variety of antenna configuration options, and it plays 
very well here as a separate RX antenna at my urban  noisy QTH. The unit 
is of high quality, and very well documented.
I am using it with my KX3 and a homebrew switchbox which uses reed relays 
for QSK switching, controlled by the KX3 PTT output taken from the ACC2 
jack.


73,

Wouter Jan PE4WJ




Message: 2
Date: Fri, 30 Jan 2015 19:15:32 +
From: Paul Barlow paul.bar...@upcmail.ie
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: [Elecraft] Separate Receiving Antenna
Message-ID: dub405-eas19886eb1dccd9a8d869e61994...@phx.gbl
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii

Dear Elecrafters,

I have a very small and odd shaped garden in which to play Ham Radio.
I have a K3 (and a K2 and... ), I run QRP CW and I was wondering if
anyone had experience of using active loop antennas as receiving
antennas to lower the noise floor. I was looking at Wellbrook's
Website this afternoon, and I see that their loops get good reviews on
EHam. I was wondering what experience you guys might have with these
and similar antennas.

73, Paul EI5KI

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Re: [Elecraft] K3 Sub Receiver and protecting the Sub RX input

[David Cutter]

If the 2nd rx pre-amp can add sufficient gain, then a resistive divider on 
that input will add a good degree of protection.  Receive-only aerials often 
have their own pre-amps, so there might be plenty of gain in hand.  Coax to 
the 2nd rx should still be protected against common mode current.


David
G3UNA




On Jan 28, 2015, at 7:45 AM, Doug Turnbull turnb...@net1.ie wrote:

Lyle and company,
To be clear are you talking about using another transmitter other 
than
the K3's transmitter and external amplifier?   This is my reading and I 
am

just checking.   Thank you.



Both.   I believe the OP asked about the sub RX and the K3 transmitter   I 
broadened the question because I blew out the front end on the K3 while 
testing another transmitter.   Either situation speaks to how much the K3 
receiver can take from external RF.  But some solutions such as putting 
protective devices in front of the K3 sub receiver will not work of course 
when the situation involves the K3 main receiver and an external 
transmitter.


Ken WA8JXM


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Re: [Elecraft] OT Audio Mixer

[David Cutter]

A cap on every I/O should cure the rf problems, do it as soon as you receive 
it then the pain is over and done with.


David
G3UNA

- Original Message - 
From: Milverton M. Swire via Elecraft elecraft@mailman.qth.net
To: F5vjc foxfive@gmail.com; Elecraft Reflector 
Elecraft@mailman.qth.net

Sent: Tuesday, January 13, 2015 12:38 PM
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] OT Audio Mixer


Most OP who uses a mixer in their shack usually go with the Behringer.The 
model number escapes me at the moment, but Google can be your friend.


73 Milverton. / W9MMS

 From: F5vjc foxfive@gmail.com
To: Elecraft Reflector Elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Sent: Tuesday, January 13, 2015 5:29 AM
Subject: [Elecraft] OT Audio Mixer

I'm looking for an audio mixer either to build or purchase, must RFI proof
for use in the shack .
I want to feed multiple receiver audio outputs to a common amplified
speaker system.

Also I'd like to use one microphone and paddle to feed multiple
transmitters.

I'm sure this has been done before, anyone any pointers.

73, Deni - F5VJC
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Re: [Elecraft] getting started with QRP

[David Cutter]

A friend just did the following with 2W and an end fed half wave from SOTA 
peak G/NP-031 Birks Fell, UK, 2013 feet, 610m asl.


SOTA brings QRPers together from all over the world.

David
G3UNA


in less than 15 minutes...

EA5HJY Manolo in Alicante, Spain

DL1DVE Thomas in Grossroehrdorf, Germany

EA5NR Isidro in Alicante, Spain

CU3EJ Leonel in IOTA EU-175 Terceira Island, Azores

EA2LU Jorge in Pamplona, Spain

OM9XX Special Event station in Slovakia

OH6JYH Harri in Laukaa, Finland

HB9CEX Peter in Endingen, Switzerland

DF5WA Berthold in Mainz, Germany

LA8BCA Terje in Kvam, Norway

CU3AA Joao in IOTA EU-175 Terceira Island, Azores

DK7ZH Manfred in Dietzhoelztal, Germany

EA2LMI Luis in Navarra, Spain

DJ5AV Michael in Heilingenberg, Germany

DL3JPN Steffen in Oberlungwitz, Germany

HB9MKV Rudi in Buesserach, Switzerland

EA1DFP Quique in Coruna, Spain

IK2ILH Mau in Milan, Italy

OK2PDT Jan in Brno, Czech Republic

OK1KT Vratislav in Hradec Kralove, Czech republic

OK1SDE Borek in Liberec, Czech Republic

OM1AX Vlado in Zohor, Czech Republic

DL8UVG Volkhard in Spremberg, Germany

LA1ENA/P Aage on the SOTA summit LA/TM-227 Seterkollane in Norway (summit to 
summit contact)



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Re: [Elecraft] OT: Warm climate for a vacation/be-the-DX winterholiday?

[David Cutter]

If Africa is on your list you might consider The Gambia, which is 
predominantly English spoken, quiet, no street crime, great tour guides, 
fresh well-cooked food everywhere, low cost, walk-in / walk-walk out licence 
(prefix + call).  European quality water supply, electricity, phones, 
internet. Easy flights from Schiphol, Amsterdam, not much of a high street 
and no Walmart or Big Mac, but lots of wood carving and cotton wear.  About 
30C this time of year.  Hotels have excellent service.  If you like bird 
watching, don't miss the dawn chorus.  Look up dxpeditions to The Gambia.


David
G3UNA
ps if you go to Kenya, get yourself a lodge up country, especially near the 
salt lakes which are 1500m asl 


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Re: [Elecraft] Elecraft] Timewave DSP-599zx

[David Cutter]

Hi Jim

May I ask you about your system for mixing rx antennas? How do you arrange 
the double mixing? I have this in mind and I already have a 1026 and could 
buy a NCC-1. I have a selection of HF aerials going up which I can use for 
rx on 160, possibly even in diversity mode with the K3. We have neighbours 
all around with various noise sources.


Re the hash from your K3: do you have that mod fitted that puts a sharp cut 
off audio filter in the K3? I recall it was originally made for a weak 
artifact 12kHz some experienced way back. You said high freq to 1,200 Hz, 
did you really mean that?


Sorry for the thread drift.

73

David
G3UNA


I have the Timewave, the NCC-1, a MFJ-1026 noise canceller, beverages and 
commercial mag loops, and my comments are:


1. I find the Timewave Noise reduction is of little value, the K3 NR is 
superior
2. The Timewave has an EXCELLENT audio amplifier and completely removes 
the hash from the K3 audio. I use Bose QC-15 earphones that reproduce 
high frequencies very well.
3. The Timewave DSP filters have little ringing and are steep. I adjust 
the low freq
cutoff to 300 Hz and the high freq to 1,200 Hz. This TOTALLY eliminates 
the hashfrom the K3 audio.
4. If you have an rf noise issue, the Timewave will not help any more than 
what the K3 does.
5. The MFJ does work as advertised, but it is difficult to adjust. When 
adjusted, it does give great nulls.

6. The NCC-1 also works as advertised, and is far easier to adjust.
7. The noise antenna is VERY important to the performance of any noise 
canceller.
8. Loops are great to null a single noise source. It is inferior to a 
directive (gain) antenna.


I went totally overkill for my physical location in California, with two 
PRO 1B loops and two phasers that can address two noise sources. I no 
longer have the room for beverages, which were the best with a phaser for 
160-40 meters for my physical location


Jim
W6AIM 


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Re: [Elecraft] P3 bug

[David Cutter]

Is there a quick fix eg a button press that will unlock the freeze? Waiting 
10s for it to unfreeze on its own would send me round the bend.


73
David
G3UNA



No, I do not have the SVGA board and I see exactly what has been
described.  Last night I saw it on voice several times for extended
periods including one that was well in excess of 10 seconds.  I
attributed it to RFI as I was running the amp, but I have run the amp
before with P3 FW 1.09 and had not seen the extended freeze.  Most times
the freeze would last less than a second or two.

73, Nate, N0NB


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Re: [Elecraft] K3 13.8 VDC power, battery supplies

[David Cutter]

Batteries are sensitive to their electrolyte temperature, some more than 
others.  If it is tempting to put batteries outside the shack for any 
reason, take care of the temperature extremes they may experience in terms 
of charge voltage etc.  Inside a shack that is nice for us is also good for 
the battery.  See:

http://batteryuniversity.com/learn/article/charging_at_high_and_low_temperatures

73

David
G3UNA

Concerns about outgassing notwithstanding, I've never used anything more 
than the voltage regulator on the power supply to limit the charge, and 
I've always used ordinary deep cycle batteries. The key is to limit that 
voltage to what the battery expects, and to limit the charging current to 
what the battery will take as a trickle once it's reached full charge. 
Those are not difficult to do if you simply monitor battery voltage and 
charge current.


73, Jim K9YC 


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Re: [Elecraft] LDMOS for QRO [OT]

[David Cutter]

Thanks for showing us that, Gerry, be nice to see more of the water works.  Do 
you have any pics of the build?

David
G3UNA
  - Original Message - 
  From: Gerry Hull 
  To: David Cutter 
  Cc: Reflector Elecraft 
  Sent: Tuesday, December 16, 2014 3:19 AM
  Subject: Re: [Elecraft] LDMOS for QRO [OT]


  Here's a 144MHz 1.5Kw water-cooled LDMOS amplifier putting out full power in 
a June VHF contest, with me operating at W2SZ/1.
  It was a cloudy day, and the amp was so cool, in fact, we were worried about 
condensation.  Look at the size!  The power supply is a 50v/50a surplus PC 
supply off of ebay.
  The amp was built by Brian Justin, WA1ZMS.  


  I have found cold plates on the surplus market.   Every once in a while, 
Electronic Surplus Sales in Manchester, NH has em.


  Amp in Action:


  https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vegBv6ddAUA



  73


  Gerry Hull, W1VE   | Hancock, NH USA 



  On Sun, Dec 14, 2014 at 6:32 PM, David Cutter d.cut...@ntlworld.com wrote:
I'm a little surprised that folks in this group haven't suggested liquid 
cooling for this modest application.  Semiconductor cold plates have been 
around for a long time, are economical to use and in my view a much better 
solution than forced air cooling.  They are compact, quiet, require far less 
cabinet space, keep junctions cooler and more stable than air could ever and 
enable higher reliability.

Look at Aavid for instance, whose devices I used on many occasions:

http://www.aavid.com/sites/default/files/products/liquid/pdf/liquid-cold-plate-datasheet-hicontact.pdf

If you play your cards right, you can cool the amplifier and the power 
supply on a short 4-pass plate.  Put the heat somewhere convenient, not in your 
shack.

73

David
G3UNA

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Re: [Elecraft] LDMOS for QRO [OT]

[David Cutter]

Hi Dick

Start from the LDMOS data sheet and work out the temperature you wish to 
keep within at the junction. Because water cooling is so good, you can 
choose either to run the device cooler than you would with air cooling to 
improve reliability, or stick to the same temperature and get more power / 
use a smaller cooling plate / use less water. There's a direct relationship 
between reliability and temperature, but it's not linear. Then use the 
temperature rise per W rating of the device to get to the surface 
temperature.


In work I did 10 years ago all devices were directly bolted to the 
liquid-cooled plate without an intermediate spreader, however, these LDMOS 
devices are so small (ie very high heat density) there is a good reason to 
spread the heat out first before cooling proper takes place, I'm somewhat 
hazy what thickness, but you must achieve good flatness of contact against 
the plate. Some very large devices eg IGBTs and rectifiers the size of your 
open hand are supplied curved and the bolting-down process achieves the 
flatness with the correct torque setting on the bolts.
Then you do the same sums as you do with air cooling ie temperature rise v 
watts dissipated from the heat sink data.


Say you want to dissipate 1kW of heat continuously (eg in a data contest) 
then a small 2 pass model would give you around 90 to 100K rise at the 
surface of the plate with 1 US gallon per minute, whereas a 4 pass model 
would give you around 20K rise on a 152mm length plate. This of course 
assumes that the heat is being delivered into the plate evenly over the 
whole surface, ie using a spreader. Heat sink paste adds a little to the 
thermal gradient and is needed in very small amounts, evenly spread.


Do the sums several times with different criteria until you get to the one 
you feel comfortable with. If you live in a cold climate you can dump the 
heat into a small central heating radiator to keep the shack warm and no 
fans required just an aquarian pump to run it; if you live in a hot place, 
then put the radiator on the shade side of the house or even bury it.  If 
water is abundant, eg river water or a pond, you can re-cycle it back to the 
source.


You can make your own water cooling plate, see here a small example cooling 
a dozen TO-220 devices:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WGpau-raMho
Somebody here will check my sums I'm sure.
73
David
G3UNA

- Original Message - 
From: Richard Solomon w1...@earthlink.net

To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Sent: Tuesday, December 16, 2014 4:44 PM
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] LDMOS for QRO [OT]



If one wanted to use one of these to cool an LDMOS VHF KW, where would
one find the design info to calculate which cold plate would provide 
sufficient

cooling ?

I envision a stack something like this:

LDMOS PC Board
Copper Heatsink (thickness need be determined)
Cold Plate
Aluminum Heat Sink (is this really necessary ?).

73 es HH, Dick, W1KSZ


On 12/14/2014 4:32 PM, David Cutter wrote:
I'm a little surprised that folks in this group haven't suggested liquid 
cooling for this modest application. Semiconductor cold plates have been 
around for a long time, are economical to use and in my view a much 
better solution than forced air cooling. They are compact, quiet, require 
far less cabinet space, keep junctions cooler and more stable than air 
could ever and enable higher reliability.


Look at Aavid for instance, whose devices I used on many occasions:
http://www.aavid.com/sites/default/files/products/liquid/pdf/liquid-cold-plate-datasheet-hicontact.pdf

If you play your cards right, you can cool the amplifier and the power 
supply on a short 4-pass plate. Put the heat somewhere convenient, not in 
your shack.


73

David
G3UNA



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Re: [Elecraft] LDMOS for QRO [OT]

[David Cutter]

I'm a little surprised that folks in this group haven't suggested liquid 
cooling for this modest application.  Semiconductor cold plates have been 
around for a long time, are economical to use and in my view a much better 
solution than forced air cooling.  They are compact, quiet, require far less 
cabinet space, keep junctions cooler and more stable than air could ever and 
enable higher reliability.


Look at Aavid for instance, whose devices I used on many occasions:
http://www.aavid.com/sites/default/files/products/liquid/pdf/liquid-cold-plate-datasheet-hicontact.pdf

If you play your cards right, you can cool the amplifier and the power 
supply on a short 4-pass plate.  Put the heat somewhere convenient, not in 
your shack.


73

David
G3UNA

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Re: [Elecraft] K3 audio artifacts

[David Cutter]

Does it go away if you switch in some RF attenuation?

David
G3UNA


- Original Message - 
From: Vic Rosenthal 4X6GP/K2VCO k2vco@gmail.com

To: Elecraft Reflector elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Sent: Tuesday, November 18, 2014 12:27 PM
Subject: [Elecraft] K3 audio artifacts


I know I might be beating a dead horse, but my recent experience in big, 
noisy pileups has made this problem stand out.


The t/r transitions in QSK and semi-QSK CW when there are nearby strong 
signals make a horrible racket -- enough to make me turn down the volume 
when sending, which negates the utility of QSK, of course.


Although the QSK is smooth and quiet on a quiet band, this is not the 
case when there are strong signals around. Here in 4X the EU signals can 
be super-strong, and in recent FT4TA pileups, the banging and crashing 
around my sidetone made operating sheer torture.


Yes, I am using QRQ mode (I listen to the DX on the subrx and the pileup 
on the main so as to make this possible) and New QSK. It doesn't matter.


The problem is as bad or worse in 'simplex' operation when numerous 
stations are calling a DX station on the same frequency.


I understand that this is caused by the limitations of the synthesizers. 
But I have discussed with Wayne and Lyle the possibility of changing the 
RX muting function, which would slow down the QSK but at least make it 
quiet. Fast QSK is worthless if I have to turn down the audio to protect 
my eardrums!


This would do a huge amount to increase the operating pleasure of 
serious CW operators. The feature could be optional so those who like to 
ragchew at high speed in QRM-free spots could turn it off.

--
73,
Vic, 4X6GP/K2VCO
Rehovot, Israel
http://www.qsl.net/k2vco/

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Re: [Elecraft] BNC v TNC

[David Cutter]

Fred

Yes, you are right, Vaseline does run like that, but I try to stay far away 
from silicon grease as it's the best adhesive-inhibitor known to man even 
one molecule thick layer!  I worked in a factory which banned it because of 
that.  I use silicon RTV (the non-acetic acid type).


We used to be advised not to plug 50 ohm coax into a scope because it was 
said it would damage the 75ohm panel connector, but that must have changed 
with the change of the centre pin dimension as someone said here.


David
G3UNA




- Original Message - 
From: Fred Townsend fptowns...@earthlink.net

To: David Cutter d.cut...@ntlworld.com
Sent: Tuesday, October 14, 2014 12:40 AM
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] BNC v TNC




Hi David:

Yes I have seen counterfeit TNCs. The assembly I worked on had two BNC, 
two TNC and one SMA. Only the SMA, which was receive only (GPS), did not 
have problems. The connectors were cast and had mold marks. Resistance was 
supposed to be a few milliohms but measured 10 times that. They were 
inferior in just about every parameter. They had no manuafacture's mark at 
all so impossible to trace beyound the Chinise distributer we bought them 
from.
Vaseline is good but will run a bit in hot sun. (Is that a problem in the 
UK?) I use a silicon grease from 3M. It was listed as stopcock grease but 
worked perfect at all temps. I like a silicon rubber tape or RTV (type 1) 
for wrapping. RTV has the nice advantage it can be applied around water 
without drying.


73
Fred

-Original Message-

From: David Cutter d.cut...@ntlworld.com
Sent: Oct 13, 2014 4:14 PM
To: Fred Townsend fptowns...@earthlink.net, elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] BNC v TNC

Hi Fred

I wonder if you have come across counterfeit TNC connectors.  I would 
guess

that since these are not used in the mass computer industry then there is
less incentive for the counterfeiters to be interested.  The BNC is most
interesting because it's so easy to connect and disconnect, but for me 
it's

a size issue and I prefer the *improved* water resistance of the TNC.  I
left a mated pair out in a heavy downpour recently and found no water
ingress.  If I were doing it properly I would apply a little Vaseline
petroleum jelly on the thread.

David
G3UNA





Without sounding my horn too loudly I have servered on IEEE connector
committees and been paid big bucks to solve the production line 
problems.

Counterfet connectors is too mild a term. There is some real crap out
there and your eyeballs won't be able to detect it. Things like finish 
and

and spring tention problems can not be seen. I recall one particular
connector that was causing a 2db measured loss over a prefered Kings or
Amphenol connector. The imported brand X connector was available in both
50 and 75 ohm versions, both of which were unmarked. When actually
measured with a TDR they both measured 62 ohms.

Folks, life is too short to mess with S T U F F like this. Do you really
have to touch the wet paint or believe the sign.

73, Fred, AE6QL






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Re: [Elecraft] BNC v TNC

[David Cutter]

Hi Fred

I wonder if you have come across counterfeit TNC connectors.  I would guess 
that since these are not used in the mass computer industry then there is 
less incentive for the counterfeiters to be interested.  The BNC is most 
interesting because it's so easy to connect and disconnect, but for me it's 
a size issue and I prefer the *improved* water resistance of the TNC.  I 
left a mated pair out in a heavy downpour recently and found no water 
ingress.  If I were doing it properly I would apply a little Vaseline 
petroleum jelly on the thread.


David
G3UNA




Without sounding my horn too loudly I have servered on IEEE connector 
committees and been paid big bucks to solve the production line problems. 
Counterfet connectors is too mild a term. There is some real crap out 
there and your eyeballs won't be able to detect it. Things like finish and 
and spring tention problems can not be seen. I recall one particular 
connector that was causing a 2db measured loss over a prefered Kings or 
Amphenol connector. The imported brand X connector was available in both 
50 and 75 ohm versions, both of which were unmarked. When actually 
measured with a TDR they both measured 62 ohms.


Folks, life is too short to mess with S T U F F like this. Do you really 
have to touch the wet paint or believe the sign.


73, Fred, AE6QL



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Re: [Elecraft] Any larger or more efficient heatsinks available for the K2/100PA (radio lid/top)

[David Cutter]

You could try 2 x 12V fans in series to give a bigger cooling area but 
smaller current; I did this once on a noise-critical application.


In terms of S units at the other end, turning down the power, say 25% makes 
sense.


David
G3UNA



I run a 4 (120mm) computer case fan that the specs say draws all of .15 
amps, 1.8 watts @ 12V, at full speed.
It probably doesn't need to turn that fast to adequately cool the heat 
sink so the current draw could be much less.
.15A or less current draw for a fan is insignificant, IMO, compared to the 
20A the rig draws on transmit.
If you want to save some battery turn the power down or decrease the duty 
cycle.


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Re: [Elecraft] My KX3 Battery Approach

[David Cutter]

..and you can buy AA cells anywhere in the world.  I run my KX1 that way.

BTW that's a very expensive battery holder.  I bought a couple of these in 
the UK - not normally known for cheaper prices: 
http://www.maplin.co.uk/p/10-aa-battery-box-rk45y


73

David
G3UNA

- Original Message - 
From: Phil Wheeler w...@socal.rr.com

To: k...@yahoogroups.com; Elecraft Reflector Elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Sent: Friday, July 11, 2014 9:04 PM
Subject: [Elecraft] My KX3 Battery Approach


While I have a 5 Amp-hr Lithium Ion battery and use it, and also 
high-capacity Eneloops inside my KX3 (with the battery charger option) my 
preferred approach is to use ten external Eneloops in a battery holder 
made to hold ten AA cells, this sort of thing:


http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00AZTUI7Q/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o07_s00?ie=UTF8psc=1

That way I have no power limitations, it's easy to recharge the batteries 
(I have two Maha chargers, one 4 cell and one 8 cell, so I always have the 
ten needed spares available). Works good with a number of rigs (K1, KX1, 
etc.)


While the capacity is only 2 A-h or so (vs. 5 or higher with some of the 
newer, more exotic batteries out there) this works for me -- and the cells 
can be used for other things like a camera flash gun. And easy to change 
out the cells to fresh ones.


Phil W7OX 


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Re: [Elecraft] A Good Antenna Length?

[David Cutter]

You might consider an off-centre-fed dipole with appropriate balun and 
choke.  A dual core balun that gives good cancellation of common mode 
currents at the feed point is essential and some folks add another choke on 
the ground with ground spike on the house side to drain off residual cmc. 
If you are particularly prone to local noise pickup on your long runs of 
coax, then another choke at the entry to your house is a good move.


Coverage of 160 to 6 is possible but the baluns and chokes need attention to 
cover that range, especially if suspended and running power unless sturdily 
supported.  Inverted V is easiest.  You might not get all the coverage you 
want in one wire but you can join another ocfd onto the original to get more 
coverage on difficult bands.


The ocfd gives your matching unit an easier time, ie reduced losses. 
Running your radio without a linear means you can have a lightweight aerial 
with small balun on fibreglass pole.


These gents have done a huge amount of work: http://hamwaves.com/cl-ocfd/ 
and here http://www.dj0ip.de/off-center-fed-dipole/ 
http://www.dj0ip.de/off-center-fed-dipole/80m-ocf/

and try the user group: www.windom_ante...@yahoogroups.com

73
David
G3UNA


- Original Message - 
From: Jim GM jim.gmfo...@gmail.com

To: Elecraft elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Sent: Friday, July 04, 2014 10:21 PM
Subject: [Elecraft] A Good Antenna Length?



What antenna lengths are you using on 160M with your KX3 or  KXPA100
internal tuner? What is best for 160-6 meters? I like making my own
antennas with wire.

I usually have to give up one band or another cause it just would not tune
up on a certain band.

I have tried to stay with in these guide lines.

--
Jim K9TF 


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Re: [Elecraft] A Good Antenna Length?

[David Cutter]

Rick DJ0IP has performed many hundreds of cmc measurements over the last 
year or so.  He has yet to publish his complete findings but here is a 
taste:

http://www.dj0ip.de/cmc-test/
http://www.dj0ip.de/cmc-test/the-components/the-baluns/
http://www.dj0ip.de/cmc-test/pre-test-preparation/
http://www.dj0ip.de/cmc-test/results-test-data/ant-1-b0/
http://www.dj0ip.de/cmc-test/test-configurations/
http://www.dj0ip.de/cmc-test/results-test-data/ant-2-b5/


After many hundreds of measurements he has demonstrated that with a *dual 
core* Guanella 4:1 balun at the feed point, common mode current can be tamed 
even with deliberately poor antenna and feeder layout.


There are not many folks who would take the care and have the patience to do 
this sort of work.


David
G3UNA






- Original Message - 
From: Jim Brown j...@audiosystemsgroup.com

To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Sent: Saturday, July 05, 2014 3:24 PM
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] A Good Antenna Length?



On 7/5/2014 2:05 AM, David Cutter wrote:
You might consider an off-centre-fed dipole with appropriate balun and 
choke.


Not if you're going to run power. An off center fed antenna generates high 
common mode voltage, which will fry even the best choke when running 
power. I wouldn't consider such an antenna at greater than 100W.


73, Jim K9YC 


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[Elecraft] [KX1] Field Day just for the fun of it

[David Cutter]

I used a KX1 on 20m for the RSGB National Field Day (NFD) for the first 
time.  Running 5W to an L dipole at 11ft for the last 3 hours of the 
contest when the sensible folk were on 40m.  I sat in the sunshine at a 
picnic table.  Worked all I could hear which amounted to 64 
contacts around Europe.  Slow-going from a contest point of view but fun 
with a minimalist set-up.  I can recomend it.


73

David
G3UNA operating as G6CP/P 


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Re: [Elecraft] Fwd: KX3 kit: No CE badge for self-built KX3s?

[David Cutter]

I'm being picky, but strictly speaking kits are not required to have a CE 
mark which has EMC as a part of it requirement, not the other way around. 
However, stating the obvious, that doesn't absolve a user of from creating 
EMC issues with other equipment outside his premises.


David
G3UNA


- Original Message - 
From: Sven Ladegast s...@ladegast.info

To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Sent: Sunday, May 18, 2014 2:18 PM
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Fwd: KX3 kit: No CE badge for self-built KX3s?


Hello John,

thanks for this hint!

You are right: Article 2 paragraph 2 states this out. So my self-built
KX3 is legal to use since it is handled like any other homebrew gear...

73!

Sven, DJ2AT

Am 18.05.2014 15:04, schrieb John, 9H5G:


Kits are not subject to the EMC requirements and therefore do not have to 
carry a CE mark. If asked, just show the invoice and a copy of the

DIRECTIVE 2014/30/EU

You can google it and download.
  You're looking for Article 2.

73 de John, 9H5G

On May 18, 2014, at 8:52 AM, Sven Ladegast s...@ladegast.info wrote:

Hello folks,

I've just built my new KX3 serial #6221 and it is a pretty cool radio that 
is working like a charm!


I just wonder why kits do not get a CE badge next to the serial number 
badge? Or did someone miss to put it into the box?


vy 73!

Sven, DJ2AT 


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Re: [Elecraft] [KX3] OT: NVIS with KX3

[David Cutter]

I've heard it said that a wire on the ground as a reflector improves NVIS 
coms if the ground is poor.  I can't model this, but perhaps someone could 
comment.  I'm inclined to think that it might take several wires on the 
ground to make a difference.  It's an interesting idea to play with.


David
G3UNA

- Original Message - 
From: Wayne Burdick n...@elecraft.com

To: k...@yahoogroups.com
Cc: Elecraft elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Sent: Thursday, April 24, 2014 4:27 PM
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] [KX3] OT: NVIS with KX3


Hi Johnny,

On 40 meters, I work all over the West Coast (0-1000 miles north/south) 
during the daytime with 5 to 10 W. The antenna is a random-length OCF dipole 
about 15' off the ground. I'm not sure how many clouds I'm burning, but many 
of the stations I work are short- and medium-range. I think this should work 
in your situation.


Wayne
N6KR


On Apr 23, 2014, at 9:03 PM, Johnny Siu vr2...@yahoo.com.hk wrote:



Hello elecrafters,

It is off topic and you may wish to press 'del' button now.

Local ham clubs together with some hams in the China Mainland are going to 
do some drilling in ARES within the Pearl River Delta area (with a radius 
of about 50km).  NVIS could be one of the operation to trial run for ARES. 
My questions are:


1.  Is the power output say 10w from KX3 good enough for such purpose 
under SSB? We don't want CW which requires training operators.  Phone mode 
can be operated by anyone with minimal guidance (a simulation under 
emergency).


2. During day time, is 40m a proper band to use (no 60m band in ITU Region 
3)?  If yes, what will be usually frequencies used such proposes?


3.  I am going to use Buddipole for the NVIS antenna.  Did you go good 
results for similar operation in the past?


Looking forward to your advice and thanks in advance.  Please reply 
off-the-list so as to save the bandwidth here.


73

Johnny VR2XMC


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Re: [Elecraft] Line Out Jack

[David Cutter]

Just to be awkward, my mono and stereo versions all measure 3.48 to 3.49 on 
the barrel but 2.94 to 3.02 on the tip.  Nothing measures 3.18mm ie 1/8inch. 
It's been said before: 1/8inch is an approximation.


David
G3UNA





On Tue, Apr 8, 2014 at 9:56 AM, Josh Fiden j...@voodoolab.com wrote:

My recollection is that 3.5mm and 1/8 have always been used
interchangeably. I believe (guess) the discrepancy is simply that the 
plug

originated as 3.5mm and 1/8 is the closest fractional inch (9/64 is
unsatisfying).


Wikipedia (which knows everything, right?) seems to concur...

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Phone_connector_(audio)

73,

   ~iain / N6ML




On Tue, Apr 8, 2014 at 9:56 AM, Josh Fiden j...@voodoolab.com wrote:
I'm curious about this. If anyone has reference to an actual 1/8 
connector,
please forward off list. I don't recall them ever being anything but 
3.5mm.

My recollection is that 3.5mm and 1/8 have always been used
interchangeably. I believe (guess) the discrepancy is simply that the 
plug

originated as 3.5mm and 1/8 is the closest fractional inch (9/64 is
unsatisfying).

Checking specifications from one reputable manufacturer calls out sleeve
diameter of 3.5+/-0.05mm for the plug and 3.6mm for the entrance of the
jack. As with so many things, I'm sure there's no difficulty finding 
poorly

designed/manufactured Asian parts that deviate.

73,

Josh W6XU


On 4/7/2014 7:11 PM, Don Wilhelm wrote:


3.5mm and 1/8 inch are now the same thing - one place calls them 3.5mm
while others use the 1/8 inch designation for the same thing.



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Re: [Elecraft] Powerpole police here....

[David Cutter]

There really are 2 different standards, ie there are 2 different parts that 
are manufactured and it's a pain.  If a plug is hard to push in, then it's 
probably not meant for that socket, even if it looks like it should be.


David
G3UNA


- Original Message - 
From: Charlie T, K3ICH pin...@erols.com

To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Sent: Saturday, March 15, 2014 10:36 PM
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Powerpole police here


That doesn't answer my question. Are they REALLY   0.137795 inches or 
is 3.5mm just a rounded off way to describe the same physical part using 
two different measurement standards?


73, Charlie k3ICH


- Original Message - 
From: David Ferrington, M0XDF m0...@alphadene.co.uk

To: Charlie T, K3ICH pin...@erols.com
Sent: Saturday, March 15, 2014 2:26 PM
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Powerpole police here


3.5mm is 0.137795 inches, 1/8 = .125, that's quite a difference in terms 
of a good contact.

-- 73 de M0XDF
Sent from my iPad


On 15 Mar 2014, at 13:16, Charlie T, K3ICH pin...@erols.com wrote:

Are they REALLY different, or is this just a convenient way to identify 
them using two measurement systems?  Not trying to start a fight, but I 
think it's worth knowing. Anybody know for sure?   I have found that a 
particular miniature phone size plug to be very difficult to insert, so 
it might be a fact.


Sorta like a .38 cal is actually 0.357 and very close to (wimpy) 9mm.

73, Charlie k3ICH


- Original Message - From: David Ferrington, M0XDF 
m0...@alphadene.co.uk

To: ab2tc ab...@arrl.net
Cc: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Sent: Saturday, March 15, 2014 5:51 AM
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Powerpole police here


3.5mm  1/8 are not quite the same size, so if you've put a 1/8 plug 
in a 3.5 mm socket, you might find this problem.


I have no problems with my K3.
73 de David, M0XDF (K3 #174, P3 #108)
--
If a man will begin with certainties, he shall end in doubts; but if he
will be content to begin with doubts, he shall end in certainties.
-Francis Bacon, essayist, philosopher, and statesman (1561-1626)


On 13 Mar 2014, at 19:21, ab2tc wrote:

6. 3.5mm phone (mono and stereo) - never come across a pair that is not
intermittent when wiggled. Junk!


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Re: [Elecraft] K3 - WinkeyUSB Keying Issue

[David Cutter]

What an astonishing idea!  I have hesitated to make a remote station because 
of the latency problem, but this will encourage me to look further.  Do you 
have a diagram of your set-up you could share?


73

David
G3UNA

- Original Message - 
From: Poul Erik Karlshøj (PKA) p...@telepost.gl

To: d...@w3fpr.com
Cc: Elecraft Email List elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Sent: Saturday, March 08, 2014 8:40 AM
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] K3 - WinkeyUSB Keying Issue


Jed, I would also suspect the cable (having had some problems with one 
myself).


Not directly related: I have just tried connecting two winkeyers in 
Server/Client mode. It works great. I just came back from a short trip to 
OX and worked RC on internet with a 200 msec delay and it worked real 
nice. Used a WK-compatible keyer from G3ZLP at the Client end and an 
original Winkeyer in the shack at home. It is certainly an easy way to 
operate remotely using a paddle.


OZ4UN/Poul-Erik

Sendt fra min iPad


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[Elecraft] K3/KPA500/KAT500 + ocf dipole

[David Cutter]

I happen to think that the K line and the off-centre-fed dipole make for an 
ideal compact station, particularly for those with very restricted land on 
which to put just one aerial.  As you have concluded, common mode current 
must be conquered and I think the GM3SEK chokes are ideal where weight is 
not a factor, eg on the ground and in the shack.  I built one in a 
weather-proof box with the LF version and the HF version all in together for 
a very neat solution.


Your problems were mainly with transmit, but these chokes also work on 
receive keeping noise off the coax which would otherwise creep right inside 
the radio.


As others have said, you need a choke at the feed point after the balun and 
others down the line depending on your layout.  A feeder that does not drop 
vertically from the aerial induces further cmc onto the coax.  Another good 
and easy thing to do is ground the coax shield before it enters the house, 
but not everyone can do that, so a choke at the radio does the job.


DJ0IP/NJ0IP is putting data on his website from a very large number of 
measurements on various combinations of ocf dipoles to show which chokes and 
baluns work best.  His project is not yet finished but it is the most 
comprehensive set of measurements I have seen on practical aerials.


David
G3UNA



...the most common response

was common mode current on the feeder caused by OCFD unbalance. I did
research and decided to build the renowned GM3SEK choke balun. I chose the
mid range version which covers broadly 5-14MHz and installed it just south
of my 4:1 balun at the North end of the feeder. No Joy. Further ideas from
reflector pundits suggested that it might still be common mode, but 
coupled

from the antenna into the feeder where my GM3SEK choke wouldn't help.

Fortunately I had bought enough Fair Rite oval cores to build all three
(Lo/Mid/Hi) balun designs, so in a final roll of the dice I built the two
core Hi Band balun and installed it in the Shack next to my rig. The hi 
band
version has a fairly flat impedance curve and reaches down to 7MHz and up 
to

30MHz. IT WORKED! I have run 100W on all the bands from 40m to 10m and I
have seen no run away SWR readings. My 25W tune value stays rock solid. As 
a
final push-my luck step I turned the KPA500 to operate and ran 400W SSB. 
No

Sweat! All of these things were no-nos yesterday.




Ray Coles, C.Eng. M0XDL

10 Littlemoor Road,

Weymouth DT3 6AA

Tel: +44 (0) 1305 833699

Mob: 07831 516517 



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Re: [Elecraft] New products from Palm Radio

[David Cutter]

There is a self-adhesive plastic plate already available for just that 
purpose available from Palm.  I tried one on my KX1.


David
G3UNA

- Original Message - 
From: EricJ eric_c...@hotmail.com

To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Sent: Thursday, December 12, 2013 6:31 PM
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] New products from Palm Radio


Either way, it would be an easy matter to neatly cut a strip of thin steel 
to match the Palm Paddle and stick it in place where ever you want with 
double sticky cellophane tape. When you no longer want it, soak it off 
with Goo Gone or similar.


Hobby stores carry KS Metal products including small sheets of 0.008 or 
0.013 tinned carbon steel. Easy to paint it to match too.


That would work with any radio without needing a whole new sideplate.

Eric
KE6US

On 12/12/2013 8:51 AM, Wayne Burdick wrote:
It's not clear from the photos whether the new right-side accessories are 
compatible with the use of a 2-meter antenna plugged into the SMA 
connector.


73,
Wayne
N6KR


On Dec 12, 2013, at 3:49 AM, Richard Newstead rich...@sotabeams.co.uk 
wrote:


Palm Radio has introduced a couple of new accessories. The Pico Plate is 
a

self adhesive magnetic base for the Pico Paddle that makes mounting the
paddle on a radio or desk easy. They have also introduced a magnetic 
side

panel for the KX3 that makes mounting magnetic paddles simple.

See them both here:

http://www.sotabeams.co.uk/palm-radio/

73 Richard G3CWI
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Re: [Elecraft] [K3] Buying CM500 in NYC

[David Cutter]

Here's a good alternative I bought in UK as advised by Tom G3OLB, price 
might have changed:


 A good alternative I found for my K3, is the Koss SB/45, which is quite 
comfortable during long periods of contest operation and has an excellent 
quality electret mic. It's currently £20.98 free postage on Amazon.


73
David G3UNA



- Original Message - 
From: GW0ETF gw0...@btinternet.com

To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Sent: Wednesday, December 11, 2013 10:16 AM
Subject: [Elecraft] [K3] Buying CM500 in NYC



Hi,

Seems impossible to buy the CM500 in the UK so I was hoping to pick up a 
set

when I'm in New York next February...anyone suggest a good source? I have
heard BH photo/video store is good and looks nice and central.

Also hoping to get a pair of Al stiffener plates for my (early) K3
synthesizer boards shipped over to the hotel from Aptos and avoid the
astronomical shipping charges to the UK.

73,
Stew, GW0ETF



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Re: [Elecraft] Batteries and solar power

[David Cutter]

As I understand it, AGM batteries are designed for high current performance, 
ie good for engine starting, but for radio use I would have thought that gel 
batteries would be more suitable as they have a longer life, particularly in 
hot climates.  I have no experience of either, just reading the specs.


David
G3UNA



- Original Message - 
From: Jeff Cochrane jeffvk...@gmail.com

To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Sent: Saturday, November 30, 2013 1:01 AM
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Batteries and solar power



On Thu, 28 Nov 2013 05:36:15 +1000, John's email k...@att.net wrote:

I use 2 x 6V 300AH AGM batteries as the prime power source in my shack.
I use a 15Amp smart charger to keep them topped up whilst mains power is 
available and a 200Watt solar panel is available for after cyclones 
(hurricanes) as we invariably lose power for a day or three after them.



--
Jeff Cochrane - VK4XA
East Innisfail
QLD, Australia
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Re: [Elecraft] K3 + P3 Combo Pelican / Hard Case

[David Cutter]

I put my K3 into a large food box I bought for a few £ from Morrisons 
supermarket.  It has a tight-fitting lid and the K3 is held snugly in place 
and everything is protected.  I carry this my shoulder bag.  The box is 
polypropylene I think and is soft enough to absorb knocks on the corners.  I 
haven't done a drop test, but I think it would be fine for travelling.  In a 
shoulder bag it would be surrounded by other materials and is good for 
carry-on.  I haven't tried the P3 in a food box, but I'm sure I'd find one, 
even another of the same as the K3 filled with stuff like your bug key, 
headphones, etc.


I know it's not quite what you asked for but I think this is a superior 
solution and the cost is negligible.


David
G3UNA

- Original Message - 
From: Alan Hawrylyshen k2...@polyphase.ca

To: elecraft elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Sent: Saturday, November 30, 2013 5:16 AM
Subject: [Elecraft] K3 + P3 Combo Pelican / Hard Case



I have looked at the archives a little bit, but I haven't quite stumbled on
a short and sweet paragraph or two about this.

Has anyone selected and used a Pelican case to protect and transport a
K3/100 + P3 combo. If so, what case did you choose?

I've been looking at the 15xx (1550) and possibly the iM2500 cases; but
they are quite 'tight' dimensionally. I'm interested in any experiences
people have with:

1) Pelican Cases for a K3/100+P3 combo (I mention /100 because of the fans
hanging back), and/or;
2) Experience with a similar but potentially less expensive option.

I'd like to pack my radio up for the trip to G-land and select a case that
would allow me to take the radio on a DXpedition at some point -- so an
option is to expand the case size to include the power supply, etc.

More than anything - I'm interested in opinions around how much space is
needed to protect the radio, etc.

Thanks
Alan
K2ACK 


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Re: [Elecraft] Batteries and solar power

[David Cutter]

Hello Jack

I can see your experience is good.  I haven't so far uncovered what is meant 
by life for these batteries, perhaps it's when the energy being fed in is 
more than double what is taken out or something of the kind, or the time it 
takes to drain to a projected cut-off.  I doubt that the internal resistance 
is measured.  As an ex marine operator, standby (emergency) battery life was 
very important and they were replaced on a strict schedule, however good or 
bad they might be in use - a bit like alarm batteries and such like.  I know 
amateur requirements are somewhat flexible shall we say : - )


David
G3UNA



I live in Florida and as a fishing guide, the  4 group 27 AGM batteries on 
my boat have performed perfectly now for over 4 years of almost daily use. I 
have almost every piece of marine electronics and radios running on the 
boat.


Jack
W4GRJ

On Nov 30, 2013, at 3:17, David Cutter d.cut...@ntlworld.com wrote:

As I understand it, AGM batteries are designed for high current performance, 
ie good for engine starting, but for radio use I would have thought that gel 
batteries would be more suitable as they have a longer life, particularly in 
hot climates.  I have no experience of either, just reading the specs.


David
G3UNA




On Thu, 28 Nov 2013 05:36:15 +1000, John's email k...@att.net wrote:

I use 2 x 6V 300AH AGM batteries as the prime power source in my shack.
I use a 15Amp smart charger to keep them topped up whilst mains power is 
available and a 200Watt solar panel is available for after cyclones 
(hurricanes) as we invariably lose power for a day or three after them.



--
Jeff Cochrane - VK4XA 


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Re: [Elecraft] OT: Installing PL-259's

[David Cutter]

As a method of achieving a 360 degree soldered braid it does that, but what 
I don't like is that it creates a mechanical weakness at the joint.  In the 
conventional method, the cable exits the connector while still flexible and 
allows flexing, but in this method the cable is stiff and flexing should not 
be allowed.  Additional bracing should be used if any flexing is likely.


Personally, I prefer the 'pressure sleeve' PL259s as is used in the N 
connector in which no soldering of the braid is necessary so,  the 
reliability, even under arduous use should be higher.  SA tape should be 
applied after assembly as usual.


Professional suppliers of RF cable assemblies that I have used (with N type, 
TNC, SMA - not PL259) have never failed in military use.  A moderately 
priced supplier I have used is Gigatronix who use an on-line ordering system 
that makes the specifying and pricing very simple, quick and transparent.  I 
have no pecuniary interest, except the notion of 'buy cheap, buy twice.'


David
G3UNA



- Original Message - 
From: Frank Precissi vad...@gmail.com

To: Elecraft Group elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Sent: Tuesday, November 12, 2013 6:23 AM
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] OT: Installing PL-259's



Glad this topic came up, because im about to redo all my pre-made cables
and its one of those topics that people like me are afraid to ask because
they are sorta newbie-ish (cue the You should have learned this before 
you

got your ticket grumps).

What is your opinion of this method:

http://www.k3lr.com/engineering/pl259/



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[Elecraft] XG3 set up

[David Cutter]

Please advise editing frequency memories: 
I've set new freqs, (out of amateur bands) then Apply, but response is no 
response to frequency memory query (M)  I have the unit switched on.

The utility seems to be fixated on using COM5, though I've tried all 3 USB 
ports on my laptop
XG3 status revision 01.14.RS232 speed 9600 bit/s

What's the trick I'm missing?

73
David
G3UNA

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Re: [Elecraft] Using K3 to measure noise levels

[David Cutter]

For anyone serious about long term calibrated recordings of noise, see my 
article under Citizen Science in the latest QST.


73

David
G3UNA


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Re: [Elecraft] Using Lith-Ion batteries in the KX-1

[David Cutter]

I should have said 2 x 4-cell pack.  

David
G3UNA
  - Original Message - 
  From: Howard Zehr 
  To: David Cutter 
  Sent: Wednesday, October 09, 2013 12:50 PM
  Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Using Lith-Ion batteries in the KX-1


  David
  That should work well.  I also have a small lith-ion external pack that I use 
like that.
  Howard
  KLXY

  On Oct 9, 2013, at 4:34 AM, David Cutter d.cut...@ntlworld.com wrote:


Nice job, but I couldn't face that right now, so, I just wired a power plug 
to an external 4-cell AA battery holder which sits next to the KX1.  I can fit 
alkalines or re-chargables.  When the external pack is run down, the internal 
battery takes over while I change the external batteries, a bit like a UPS.

David
G3UNA


- Original Message - From: Howard Zehr zeh...@aol.com
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Sent: Monday, October 07, 2013 12:42 AM
Subject: [Elecraft] Using Lith-Ion batteries in the KX-1



  I have just uploaded a video to YouTube that explains how I use Lith-Ion 
batteries in the KX-1 for more voltage than Alkalines, and thus more RJ output.

  http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HFyIWrzE0BEfeature=youtu.be

  Howard  K4LXY

  Photo gallery:  www.howardzehr.com
  Blog: http://emu.edu/blog/restorative-justice/

  FORTHCOMING BOOK (May 2013):
  Pickups: A Love Story - Pickups, Their Owners, Their Stories (Good Books)
  
http://goodbooks.com/book/9781561487882-pickups--a-love-story-hardcover-with-dustjacket#.UQKcd6WwqX8


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  Howard Zehr
  Blog: http://emu.edu/blog/restorative-justice/
  Photo gallery:  www.howardzehr.com

  NEW BOOK:  What Will Happen to Me? (children of prisoners) - sample gallery: 
  
http://visualpeacemakers.org/index.php?/documentaries/photo_story/what_will_happen_to_me/





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Re: [Elecraft] Elecraft Digest, Vol 114, Issue 11

[David Cutter]

Are those codes applied to low voltage isolated supplies by law or
are there separate codes for this?  In the context of the original question, 
the 13.8V dc supply will not have the same shock hazard, though it may have 
the same fire hazard, so, perhaps a different code/standard applies.  House 
wiring requires a high degree of safety because its potential (risk) for 
fire, but the risk of fire in isolated low voltage equipment which is on 
view (ie not hidden in building cavities etc) is different.


David
G3UNA


- Original Message - 
From: Phil Kane k2...@kanafi.org

To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Sent: Tuesday, October 08, 2013 5:16 PM
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Elecraft Digest, Vol 114, Issue 11



On 10/7/2013 3:44 PM, Neal Enault wrote:


To determine the effects of ambient temperature, one has to do some
not so accurate calculations or refer to a document like MIL-W-5088
which also provides guidance for wire ratings in bundles and at
various altitudes.



In the civilian/industrial world, the (U.S.) National Electrical Code
(NPFA 70) has a whole series of Ampacity tables (that's the term for
current rating).  I've always used that as my guide.

73 de K2ASP - Phil Kane
Elecraft K2/100   s/n 5402

From a Clearing in the Silicon Forest
Beaverton (Washington County) Oregon
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Re: [Elecraft] Elecraft Digest, Vol 114, Issue 11

[David Cutter]

Thanks, Don, that was the reason for my question.  I've had dealings with
large MW motors and getting the right cables for them and in contrast low
voltage, high current applications.  Over here, once you get below the
Safety Extra Low Voltage (SELV) limit (meaning isolated and from memory
42V) regime the rules change, but my memory fails me as to specifics.  I
have a feeling that the automotive industry have different insulation
requirements for instance.

David
G3UNA


- Original Message - 
From: Don Wilhelm w3...@embarqmail.com

To: David Cutter d.cut...@ntlworld.com
Cc: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Sent: Tuesday, October 08, 2013 7:17 PM
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Elecraft Digest, Vol 114, Issue 11



David,

I believe the same codes do apply since they are based on current, not 
voltage.


Codes aside, do not take low voltage, high current sources lightly 
(particularly batteries) because they are a very large source of energy. 
If shorted, molten metal spewing all over is not an exaggeration, it is 
real.
That is why the power cables should be fused for the Ampacity rating of 
the wire with the fuse placed near the power source.  You are protecting 
the wire against fault conditions, not necessarily the equipment 
connected.


Shock hazards are a different thing - fuses will not help with shock 
hazards.  True, low voltage supplies may not be a shock hazard, but they 
are a hazard just the same because of the high energy available should 
there be a fault.


73,
Don W3FPR

On 10/8/2013 1:45 PM, David Cutter wrote:

Are those codes applied to low voltage isolated supplies by law or
are there separate codes for this?  In the context of the original 
question, the 13.8V dc supply will not have the same shock hazard, though 
it may have the same fire hazard, so, perhaps a different code/standard 
applies.  House wiring requires a high degree of safety because its 
potential (risk) for fire, but the risk of fire in isolated low voltage 
equipment which is on view (ie not hidden in building cavities etc) is 
different.




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Re: [Elecraft] Elecraft Digest, Vol 114, Issue 11

[David Cutter]

So far nobody has mentioned insulation material.  The rating of a cable has 
little to do with melting the wire and mostly to do with melting or 
softening the insulation which would create a shock and/ or fire hazard. 
The same size wire insulated with PVC is allowed to rise to a much lower 
temperature compared to insulation of PTFE or numerous other materials.  And 
what is good or bad for mains circuits will not be the same in a vehicle or 
aircraft circuit.


David
G3UNA




- Original Message - 
From: Don Wilhelm w3...@embarqmail.com

To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Sent: Monday, October 07, 2013 11:14 PM
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Elecraft Digest, Vol 114, Issue 11


OK Joe,  You are correct.  It has been a very long time since I have been 
involved with heat related science issues.  More current equals more heat 
(for a given resistance) has been sufficient for me most of the time 
without getting into the exact math.


It is good to know that some folks here still have those formulas on the 
top of their heads.


73,
Don W3FPR

On 10/7/2013 5:57 PM, Joe Subich, W4TV wrote:


On 10/7/2013 5:31 PM, Don Wilhelm wrote:
 Geesh, how is that possible - twice the current equals twice as much
 heat and will exceed the capacity of the wire.

Sorry, Don ... twice the current = *four times* the heat. Heat
(energy in Joules) = Watts * seconds.  One Joule (one Watt-second)
is 2.78e-7 kW*h

73,

   ... Joe, W4TV


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Re: [Elecraft] new computer advice suggestions for using with a K3

[David Cutter]

Didn't Wayne have a smart phone solution a couple of months ago?  Sorry, 
can't remember the detail.


David
G3UNA



Pignology has a wifi interface that makes an iPad feasible as a
logging/controlling computer.  There's a version of Rumlog for iPad, as
well as Pignology's Hamlog.  Android tablets reportedly work as well.

Peter W0LLN


On Mon, Aug 12, 2013 at 8:27 AM, Bill Frantz fra...@pwpconsult.com 
wrote:



Please allow me to hijack this thread to ask about low power draw
computers for use with the K3.

Last field day I set up our club's digital station with a K3/10, 
SignaLink

USB, and a MacBook Pro. The combination worked very well, but the MacBook
Pro, connected through the Apple power adapter and a Radio Shack inverter
drew 3 to 4 times as much power as all the rest of the system. I used the
Elecraft USB -- RS232 cable for rig control.

So I am looking for a computer that runs on 12 volts and draws a minimum
amount of current. It should be low noise and all those other good things
as well. My OS preferences are in order: MacOS -- because I know it,
flavors of Linux -- so I won't have to configure a Windows system and 
deal

with Microsoft's license verification, and finally Windows.

On the MacBook Pro I was running cocoaModem and RUMped. I expect on other
OSes I will run fldigi and a contest logger to be names later.

Does anyone have any suggestions?

Cheers - Bill, AE6JV



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Re: [Elecraft] [K3] Hearing aids, meet K3

[David Cutter]

Given the processing power of the modern smart phone I wonder someone hasn't 
developed and application to use regular ear pieces and sample sounds to set 
it all up yourself.


David
G3UNA




Another comment. Hearing aids are very expensive in the US (I hear $5K-$6K 
being typical), and I strongly suspect that it is the result of limited 
distribution contracts between audiologists and the manufacturers to 
protect the high markups. Costco's prices are about half that, but they 
tend to be well rated, and W6OAT is VERY pleased with his. I also 
saw/heard a piece on either NPR or PBS a month or so ago about a guy who 
is developing a low cost hearing aid that he intends to sell in the $600 
range. It's less sophisticated than the others, with fewer adjustments.


73, Jim K9YC 


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Re: [Elecraft] OT - anyone have experience with effects of metal roofs on antenna performace?

[David Cutter]

A 4 square can be badly affected by metal (towers, masts, metal roofs).  The 
gain is similar but it loses front to back ratio in the affected direction.


David
G3UNA



You forgot the Gain. Forexample you can loose  2 - 3 dB gain on an
antenna due to interaction with another antenna or object and see
no nothing on the SWR you measure down in the shack. Then you think
everything is fine a perfect, well maybe it´s good since what you don´t
know you don´t worry about.
/SM2EKM


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Re: [Elecraft] KX3 external speaker suggestion West Mountain Clear Speaker DSP powered

[David Cutter]

Wayne had a suggestion a while ago, but I can't find the reference, he might 
be watching the list and jump in.


David
G3UNA 


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Re: [Elecraft] cobweb antenna

[David Cutter]

I built one for a disabled friend of mine and it worked 'right out of the 
box' as you might say.  It required very little tweeking to get it centred 
on the phone bands that he required.  I know several people who have them 
and they stay up and stay tuned even in what we call windy conditions.  They 
also have the advantage of being quiet, ie not so sensitive to local 
electrical noise.  It uses large twin wire in a folded dipole configuration 
for each element, they are all cut to size pre-assembled ready to go with 
all the stainless steel hardware.  It provides low swr right across the 
phone bands.  We didn't fit any extra chokes: the one in the box seems to 
work fine.


If I were choosing such a device, I would build the version designed by 
G3TXQ, see here: http://www.karinya.net/g3txq/cobweb/   This design 
significantly lighter weight.  He also re-designed the HexBeam and most 
suppliers now use his design, see here: 
http://www.karinya.net/g3txq/wire_beams/


There are many other pages of interest on his site, in particular his 
treatment of common mode chokes which I recommend to anyone: 
http://www.karinya.net/g3txq/chokes/  all on one page.


David
G3UNA

- Original billb...@nc.rr.com


I came across a nifty square thing called a cobweb, which is more or less 
semi-flat over 4-5 bands... is very light..and can be made of pvc pipe or 
possibly fiber glass because it just has 5 wires in a big square.. One 
antenna to cover 20 17 15, 12 and 10 meters sounds interesting.. One of 
the designs even works on 6, but has higher losses... (That may be the 
baluns they use for a 4-1 impedance match and to go unbalanced...


Has anyone tried one of these critters, and if so, is the Elecraft happy 
with it?




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Re: [Elecraft] OT: Elevated vs. Buried Radials

[David Cutter]

Further to that, if you desire, as I might, to have more radiation in one 
direction, eg from here to North America, I would have one elevated radial 
pointing that way and the radiation pattern tilts that way a little.


One further point not brought out so far: the antenna itself does not have 
to be resonant; as long as the impedance is transformed to match the tx, it 
will accept power and radiate, minus the transformation and system losses.


Since ocf has been mentioned a few times: I've seen VNA sweeps of ocf 
aerials in which the vswr dips nicely in band but the resonance as shown by 
X passing thro zero is often nowhere near.


David
G3UNA


IMPT POINT:  If you want your antenna actually to have a vertical 
radiation pattern (low angle, omni-directional) then the elevated radials 
must be symmetric.  If there are two, they must be of exactly equal length 
and point in exactly opposite directions.  If there are four, they must be 
equal and point in directions 90 degrees from one another. This symmetry 
guarantees that the radials do not radiate.  The do carry currents, they 
do help resonate the antenna, but if they are symmetric radiation from 
them cancels and they therefore do not radiate appreciably.


73,

Oliver
W6ODJ


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Re: [Elecraft] [KX3] Boost Buck 13.8 V Regulator

[David Cutter]

I will try a simple low dropout regulator for mine.

David
G3UNA

- Original Message - 
From: Don Nelson n...@comcast.net

To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Sent: Monday, May 13, 2013 11:56 AM
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] [KX3] Boost Buck 13.8 V Regulator



Glen,

There a number of down converters from which you could choose to run the 
KX3 off of a higher supply voltage - and they are inexpensive. Below is 
the ebay listing for one such device. I have this one on order to test. I 
have yet to get it and can not validate it yet. Do note that the output 
voltage has to be 1.5 volts below the input voltage. Most important will 
be the RFI it may generate.


Don, N0YE



http://www.ebay.com/itm/LM2596-DC-DC-Power-Converter-3-2V-40V-to-1-25V-37V-Step-Down-Power-Supply-Module-/230964091763?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0hash=item35c6885b73


On 5/13/2013 12:38 AM, Glen Torr wrote:

Hi All,

I have a KX3 and am doing some SOTA activations.

I have obtained a 4S LiPo battery which is somewhere north of 16 V with
full charge.

I would like to get a DC-DC regulator as a more elegany solution than
series diodes.

I have searched and searched but no solid outcomes.

Anyone have any input on where to find such a regulator?

Many Thanks,

Glen
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[Elecraft] European source of coax assemblies

[David Cutter]

I've used Gigatronix for professional and personal use: not expensive and 
very easy to order direct from their online configurator.  Particularly good 
for European customers.


http://www.gigatronix.co.uk/default.php?_minc=home

David
G3UNA 


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Re: [Elecraft] 4-pound Field Day, anyone?

[David Cutter]

Perhaps one of the modern Android or Iphones has an application that will 
run psk or other digital modes: that would bring the weight down.  Perhaps 
do the logging as well.  Be good for emergency use, too.


David
G3UNA


Intriguing idea.  In my case it will take the form of a lightweight psk-31 
station.  Our local club does FD every year so I may just use one of their 
antennas or rig a 20m dipole (probably a sloper).  I will break the 4# 
barrier by bringing my old P90 IBM thinkpad that has a psk-31 program and 
this will force me to make up a soundcard I/F for the KX3.  I have a pile 
of 12v 4AH gelcells which will suffice for power.  Our club call is AL7LE 
but there is some talk of using a better callsign of one of the members 
(might be KL7RA).

 73, Ed - KL7UW



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Re: [Elecraft] Elecraft K3 presentation for a club?

[David Cutter]

Fred

Well, that's quite a story and thank you for sharing it with us.  I can clearly 
see your logic  and it makes me want to acquire your library for my club even 
more, given the added value you describe.  

There is probably a category of import - export regulations that covers lending 
services to avoid tax but I've a feeling that we might be below a threshold, 
so, I'll just take a chance with that.  

I'm not sure, but I think DVDs have some regional aspect and one recorded in 
the US might not work on a European machine.  Posting discs is a very 
convenient package but a thumb drive beats it on capacity, so: thumb drive it 
is.

I'll use your address in QRZ.com.

Thanks again

David
G3UNA

  - Original Message - 
  From: Fred Townsend 
  To: 'David Cutter' 
  Cc: Elecraft Mail List 
  Sent: Sunday, April 07, 2013 11:13 PM
  Subject: RE: [Elecraft] Elecraft K3 presentation for a club?


  David:

  I am replying to the list because I have received similar offline requests 
for K3 video download lists/URLs or better yet select download lists/URLs. Let 
me explain some of the fallacies of those requests. 

  First my library consists of files, not URLs. The files were downloaded at 
maxim resolution available and stored only as mp4 videos. Duplicate files were 
removed. Multiple parts were combined. Whenever possible defects or commercial 
insertions were edited out. Duplicated file names for dissimilar files were 
renamed.  This means that searching the Internet for my file names will only be 
partially successful. 

  In addition to the aforementioned name issues the idea of a select download 
list begs the question, On what basis was the selection made? We are not all of 
common purpose.

  My intentions were to first create a personal resource for creating various 
training presentations which would culminate in the production of a menu driven 
DVD. Since the material is intended for personal use, no investigation of 
copyrights or other restrictions has been pursued. 

  In getting the material to John I first considered sending a raw DVD ROM to 
him but I abandoned that idea when I saw I had more material than a one DVD ROM 
would hold. Since a thumb drive is less than 2 ounces I can send it as first 
class USPS postage for one forever stamp. At the time I had no idea anyone on 
the other side of the big pond would want copies. I also have no idea whether 
thumb drives can be freely transferred by international mail or whether they 
might be subject to valuation, tariff, or valued added tax. I would hope they 
would be treated like an international lending library e-book, i.e. something 
that is sent out and returned shortly. Assuming costs are reasonable I still 
consider thumb drives as faster than trying to discover and download material 
which has taken me years to accumulate. Your thoughts David?

  73

  Fred, AE6QL

   

  -Original Message-

  From: David Cutter [mailto:d.cut...@ntlworld.com] 

  Sent: Saturday, April 06, 2013 2:34 AM

  To: Fred Townsend

  Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Elecraft K3 presentation for a club?

   

  Hello Fred

   

  I am very interested in your set of videos but it would be easier for many to 
download them from a list with their urls for those not in your geographic 
area.  I can see it would be time-consuming for you to do that, so, perhaps 
your selection of the best?

   

  73

   

  David

  G3UNA

  Chairman, Ripon And District Amateur Radio Society

   

   

  - Original Message - 

  From: Fred Townsend fptowns...@earthlink.net

  To: k...@arrl.net

  Cc: elecraft@mailman.qth.net; 'John Fritze' fritzej...@gmail.com

  Sent: Friday, April 05, 2013 6:17 PM

  Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Elecraft K3 presentation for a club?

   

   

   John, as a former program director I can verify it is difficult to talk

   about sounds without reproducing that sound. Yes you can add sound to 

   Power

   Point presentations but why reinvent the wheel? I have a substantial

   collection (70) of videos (with sound) downloaded mostly from Youtube. I

   will be using these videos for my field day presentation on the K3. You 

   can

   search Youtube for them or I would be happy to share these videos with

   anyone that wants them. I also have them for the KX3.

   

   The question becomes how to share. I checked and they will fit on a 8 gig

   thumb drive (16 gig if you want the KX3 too). If you (or anyone else) 

   wants

   to send me their thumb drive I can fill them. Stick a few stamps with the

   drive and I will fill it up and return it the same day received. I'm good 

   in

   QRZ

   73

   Fred, AE6QL

   
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Re: [Elecraft] OT--RFI Issue

[David Cutter]

I have explained it this way:

You've had a long, hot summer and it hasn't rained for months.  Suddenly it 
rains and it pours in through the roof that you hadn't noticed had lost a 
couple of slates.  Do you blame the weather or the builder of the house? 
Similarly, your neighbour can say that he never had interference before, but 
then, he wasn't aware he had a problem till someone fired up a radio 
transmitter next door.


The rarity of interference from a radio amateur to/from a neighbour is why 
plasma TVs, switchmode supplies, hi fi systems, video recorders et al have 
such poor emc performance - it's a cost that is statistically unnecessary to 
the masses.


David
G3UNA




Often the problem, is convincing the affected party that it really is a
defect in their equipment, or installation thereof, and not yours.  Of
course, you need to be pretty darned sure that is the case!  

The FCC used to send out a packet of information to people who complained 
explaining in part, that it was probably their equipment that was 
inadequate.  I don't know if this is still being done. Perhaps you could 
get one.  It sort of breaks the ice.


Rich, n0ce 


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Re: [Elecraft] The P3 Effect

[David Cutter]

It's still as tough as it's always been, just like a hailstorm of callers 
for which you need a good rx and even better ears to sort out.  As the 
population of P3s and other panadapters expands, more random listening might 
help, rather than ploughing a furrow.


David
G3UNA
T32C




Perhaps this is why DXpeditions seem to play spin the dial more; having 
many stations converge on the last rx frequency probably tends to slow 
their rate.  I experienced this effect at PZ5RO.  It would be interesting 
to get feedback from DXpedition ops.


73, Redd - AI2N


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Re: [Elecraft] audio problems with pro-set plus

[David Cutter]

I've had similar experiences but in my case it had nothing to do with the 
radio or the set-up or anything like that - it's just the construction of 
the headset: the plastic parts rub together and jump position slightly and 
that reverberates through the brain box with a loud pop.  Most annoying, I 
might apply some light oil.


David
G3UNA



from time to time, while
using my Heil Pro-set Plus I would get this incredibly loud pop while 
changing bands or jumping to a frequency via N1MM... Not all the time, 
just once in a while... It did not happen while using the Heil Pro-20... 
just the boom headphone... any idea how to stop this...


scott
w2ntv 


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Re: [Elecraft] OT: G5RV's and variants

[David Cutter]

A 66ft off-centre-fed dipole works better than the 105ft G5RV worked on 
multiple bands.


Remember, however, that when Louis Varney designed his antenna (aerial in 
those days, probably) we all had valve (tube) transmitters which could cope 
with the wide variation in impedance.  My only matching unit was for top 
band.  I didn't use a matching unit for the other bands until I had a 
transistor rig.


David
G3UNA



There is a reason that the G5RV is a good beginner's first antenna, IMO. 
It is relatively easy to install.


Of course the same size antenna performs better as a doublet fed with 
balanced line, but I had a lot of trouble with balanced line when I was 
starting out.  I didn't know enough to get usable matches.  Feedline 
length, routing and balun issues, while simple for me to solve now, were 
just too much for me to solve in the beginning.


The G5RV got me on 10, 12, 15, 17, 20, 40, 60 and 80 all at once. 
Admittedly not very well on all, but I made contacts on all those bands.


Another country heard from,

73 de Eric, KG6MZS



I've always wondered why builders of the antenna simply don't make an 
open-wire fed Zepp and stop there.



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Re: [Elecraft] [OT} Whole House Surge Protection

[David Cutter]

These were very popular in Kenya where black-outs, drop-outs, brown-outs, 
high surges

and spikes were common:
http://www.sollatek.com/product-list/voltshield/
http://www.sollatek.com/product-list/voltsafe/

Many fridges, freezers and all household equipment is saved using the 
plug-in units.  It was typical for the mains to read 400V (240V nom) when 
the power returned after a drop out and the little units would just hold off 
the load till those passed and a timer dropped back on.


David
G3UNA

- Original Message - 
From: AG0N-3055 mcduf...@ag0n.net

To: elecraft elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Sent: Friday, February 01, 2013 10:29 PM
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] [OT} Whole House Surge Protection



On Fri, 1 Feb 2013 11:59:00 -0600, Richard Fjeld wrote:


I built a box with an AC relay that locks up through it's own contacts.


Did the same thing, except that the path also goes through a timer relay
that doesn't energize the AC path relay until power has been on for at
least 30 seconds without interruption.

Gary
--
http://ag0n.net
3055: http://ag0n.net/irlp/3055


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Re: [Elecraft] Best Portable Antenna

[David Cutter]

I like using plug-together sections.  Using 2 x 22ft sections on one side 
and one 22ft section on the other makes a nice OCF dipole that is close to 
50ohm on 40, 20 and 10 with a 4:1 balun.  Adjust middle and end height to a 
good match without a tuner.  Other 1/3 2/3 arrangements can be made using 
plug-together sections to cover more bands without switches or tuner.  Do 
the same for the vertical version.


Even good quality tuners work better with loads that are closer to 50ohm and 
the OCF with balun/choke makes it easy.


David
G3UNA


- Original Message - 
From: Don Wilhelm w3...@embarqmail.com

To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Sent: Tuesday, January 29, 2013 2:06 PM
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Best Portable Antenna



All,

OK, a great discussion, so I thought I would share the antenna I like to 
use for portable.  It is basicly a 44 foot doublet fed with 300 ohm 
ladderline (32 feet long with an additional 10 foot section that I can 
add).  I couple that with my Jacktite 32 foot telescoping pole.  Things 
fasten together with Anderson Power Pole connectors. In addition, I carry 
2 additional 22 foot lengths of wire.
I strap the pole to anything vertical, I have the heavy duty pole, so if I 
can find a support that is 3 feet high or more, there is no need for 
additional guying.


That antenna can deploy in a variety of ways.  If an additional support is 
available, I use it as a horizontal dipole.  In situations where there are 
low bushes around, it goes up as an inverted vee - just tie the center 
insulator to the top of the pole and push it up - tie off the ends to 
whatever supports are available.  If I want to operate 80 meters or want 
better efficiency on 40, the two 22 foot wires are added making it an 88 
foot dipole.


If space is limited, or I want a vertical, one end of the antenna is 
fastened to the top of the pole, and the other side of the antenna acts as 
a bent radial (the feedpoint is 10 feet above ground).  The other two 22 
foot wires can serve as additional radials.  Support the feedline by 
whatever means available.


I use a switchable 1:1/4:1 balun at the end of the feedline and a short 
length of coax to the rig.


So, you don't have to be slaved to any one type of antenna. Sometimes 
'best' is dictated by the physical surroundings.  If you want to work 
locals, use the inverted vee or dipole, but if you are trying for 
something more distant, use the vertical configuration.
Other than the Jacktite pole, the antenna is inexpensive, but there is no 
commercial offering, you have to build it yourself.


The 'magic' of the 44 foot length is that the antenna radiates broadside 
to the wire with no lobes until you get above 10 meters, with the 88 foot 
length, lobes will be present above 20 meters.


73,
Don W3FPR



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Re: [Elecraft] Best Antenna Portable/Tabletop Operation for KX3

[David Cutter]

Have a look at multi-band off-centre-fed dipoles, loads of examples and good 
reading here:


http://groups.yahoo.com/group/windom_antenna/

Also covers baluns and tuners

David
G3UNA 


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Re: [Elecraft] Broadcast band interference

[David Cutter]

It would be very nice if these could be fitted inside the K3, or modify the 
existing K3 receive filters to provide similar results.


David
G3UNA


- Original Message - 
From: Jack Smith jack.sm...@cliftonlaboratories.com

To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Sent: Monday, January 14, 2013 8:20 PM
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Broadcast band interference


I also have several receive only filters that are suitable for AM broadcast 
suppression. Two high pass filters and a band-reject filter. More details 
on those at 
http://www.cliftonlaboratories.com/z10020_am_medium_wave_band_reject_filter.htm

http://www.cliftonlaboratories.com/z10022a_high_pass_filter.htm
http://www.cliftonlaboratories.com/z10023a_elliptic_high_pass_filter.htm

The Z10023A is an elliptic filter and provides 45 dB attenuation at 1700 
KHz and 1.5 dB at 1800 KHz.


Prices on all of these are in the $70-80 dollar range.

Jack K8ZOA


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Re: [Elecraft] K3 Remote VFO tuning control

[David Cutter]

Iain

Well done, I might just get one of those and I see they are £75 from Amazon

best 73

David
G3UNA


- Original Message - 
From: Iain Kelly i...@m0pcb.co.uk

To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Sent: Tuesday, January 08, 2013 9:44 PM
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] K3 Remote VFO tuning control


All,

Further to my email below I've now written a page on my website and have
included a zip file with the script for people to have a look at. No
warranty or guarantee can be offered for the use of the software, nor
any responsibility for anything going wrong. I've not thoroughly tested
the script, though I've not had any problems on my system.

I'd be interested in comments on the functionality and usefulness of it.

73, Iain M0PCB

On 08/01/2013 17:21, Iain Kelly wrote:

All,

I only caught this thread partway through, and the recent Digest emails 
have been quite lengthy so I don't even know who was asking originally. 
However I do have my own solution to this problem.


I originally wanted something to be able to fire off the DVR without using 
a contest logger, currently Win-Test and the LUA scripts available. Sadly 
for the local RSGB VHF contests I use another program that doesn't have 
rig control. I found a program called K-Keys by KE3C which allows up to 10 
macros to be defined and assigned to keyboard short-cuts.


I then found KTune by G4ILO and that got me thinking about an off-board 
controller for tuning and custom macros. I came across the ShuttlePROv2 
which is a video-editing tool and has a jog wheel, fast-fwd and rev 
control and a number of buttons. These actions can all be assigned to 
keystrokes in the driver application. However, I found that although KTune 
worked well with this, K-Keys wasn't able to pick up the keystrokes.


The ShuttlePRO is definitely generating the correct keys, so I had a 
problem after having spent £70 on the controller. A friend of mine 
suggested I ought to write something myself using AutoIt - a windows 
scripting tool. Based on an example file and a DLL someone had written for 
it I managed to cobble together an application that sits in the background 
and controls the K3 nicely through LP_Bridge.


I've implemented most of the macros I want to do, mode switching, amp 
control and message memories as well as variable rate tuning and jog wheel 
for VFO A and stepped tuning of VFOB and automatic 2kHz CW split. I am 
planning on making the SSB mode change smart by reading the frequency from 
the rig and setting LSB and USB depending on the answer. I also want to 
make the 'split' intelligent for CW and SSB as well. I'm also thinking 
about adding in a GUI to configure the macros and com port settings, but 
I'm not able to promise I can do that any time soon as the program is 
working for me as it stands.


I'm not a software engineer, the settings etc are all hard coded, but I 
was able to generate an executable that I have in my start-up folder. I 
only wrote it on Sunday 6th Jan so it's not finished but certainly working 
in I guess an alpha test.


If anyone would like a look at the script I can send it to them, I've not 
had chance to get it onto my website yet (www.m0pcb.co.uk) but hoping to 
do that today. I am not really willing to release it as a working program 
yet as it's very much a prototype at the moment.


If anyone is interested it might be best to talk off-line as I often don't 
get chance to read through the daily digest emails in much detail and I 
may miss things.


73, Iain M0PCB




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Re: [Elecraft] K? for remote rx only

[David Cutter]

Thanks for those notes, Geoff.  It did cross my mind that I would probably 
need some home to site link to avoid continuous transmission and switch 
between the amplifier front end filters or complete amplifier/TRF.  For a 
start this would be an additional challenge for the battery supply and 
reliability of the system and I would avoid unattended transmissions.  I 
would use high gain, directional antennas at each end of the microwave link 
to keep tx power down and avoid QRM in that band.  I would provide good 
filters to avoid bc QRM and I note your comment about core-generated IMD. 
Initially I was considering only pointing at North America with one aerial 
to get the hang of it and that should avoid most night time Eu bc QRM.


As to modulating a microwave signal with as much as 7.2MHz, I don't know 
either, but I'm hoping I can purchase the microwave bits as off the shelf 
products, so, that will be part of my search.


I wondered if there might be front end parts of Elecraft products that would 
do some of the work and I would look at amplifiers off the shelf to 
interface to the Beverage.


Thanks, again, Geoff and seasons greetings to you and all on reflector.

David
G3UNA




David,

My XYL and I have been away, so my apology for being slow to make a 
comment.


If your remote Beverages are to be used on 160m, 80m and 40m, and a remote 
TRF is used on each band to provide selectivity and gain, then unless 
their outputs are combined before up-conversion then obviously you would 
require a home-to-remote site link to band-switch the TRFs.


Of course I have no idea as to the level of BC signal(s) etc your 
Beverages would present to the TRFs, but as you know the size and mix of 
all Iron/ Ferrite cores used in the system (including the combiner's) must 
be chosen with care to prevent Core Generated IMD becoming a problem.


Another difficulty which might arise in an up-conversion scheme is the 
generation of intermodulation products, either by the up-converting mixer 
or by any subsequent stage.  This makes me wonder whether it would be 
better to run the 160m, 80m and 40m TRFs continuously, and view their 
combined outputs as Baseband.  Then use this Baseband signal to Angle 
Modulate (FM or PM) the microwave transmitter at the remote site.  At the 
home site the recovered baseband from a FM/PM receiver would be the 160m, 
80m and 40m bands.  Of course a home-to-remote link would not be required.


Here I must put my hand up, because it has been a -long- time since I 
designed any microwave kit, and I cannot recall if a Baseband extending 
to 7.2 MHz is feasible.


Best wishes to you, David, to all on the List, and to everbody at 
Elecraft for the New Year when it comes!!


73,

Geoff
LX2AO


On December 22, 2012 at 2:40 PM, David Cutter wrote:

I want to place Beverages at remote sites (for rx only), for 160m (useable 
on 80 and 40m), but it's not viable to use a K0 at each site.  Is there a 
way to use a simpler system: perhaps a TRF on each band, up-converted to, 
say, 2.3/2.4GHz then down-converted to each band for my K3 at home.  The 
transmit antenna will be at home and listen in diversity mode.


I can see various issues like image and sensitivity cropping up, but I 
just wonder if this has been done.  It would be nice if there was a lower 
cost K series simple remote receiver available.




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[Elecraft] K? for remote rx only

[David Cutter]

I want to place Beverages at remote sites (for rx only), for 160m (useable 
on 80 and 40m), but it's not viable to use a K0 at each site.  Is there a 
way to use a simpler system: perhaps a TRF on each band, up-converted to, 
say, 2.3/2.4GHz then down-converted to each band for my K3 at home.  The 
transmit antenna will be at home and listen in diversity mode.


I can see various issues like image and sensitivity cropping up, but I just 
wonder if this has be done.  It would be nice if there was a lower cost K 
series simple remote receiver available.



73

David
G3UNA 


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Re: [Elecraft] Battery Charging

[David Cutter]

If it is true that all modern chargers and laptop supplies are switchmode 
(?), I can't immediately see why they shouldn't run from a suitable dc 
supply, since the first thing that happens in a switcher is to rectify the 
mains.  Even my 5 year old stuff is universal input, ie very wide voltage 
range.  So, they could pipe unregulated dc around the cabins.  Each outlet 
would need to be equipped with a ptc protection device to protect the supply 
and the load in case a conventional device was attached.  A plug-in 
accessory with a bridge rectifier in it would also do the trick.

Sorry if this is getting off topic.

David
G3UNA



 Using 400Hz power is risky, because the current in the RFI bypass
 capacitors will much higher than normal. The leakage current through the
 capacitors to the output and other accessible parts will be high,
 possibly high enough to be a shock hazard. Running a 50-60Hz product
 from 400Hz power may also cause early failure of those capacitors.

 --Tim (KR0U)
 
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Re: [Elecraft] K3 configuration - print out available?

[David Cutter]

I don't have a Mac but is there an equivalent to Print Screen?

David
G3UNA





Hi Hoop,

At present, there is no way to get a human readable print out of the K3 
configuration using the K3 Utility. The configuration files created by the 
K3 Utility are intended to be used only by the K3 Utility to restore the 
configuration back to the K3. There has been some discussion of adding such 
a feature at some point in the future, but I doubt it will happen anytime 
soon.

David, W4SMT



Is there a way, I wonder, to get a print out of the configuration 
information that the K3 Utility Program (Mac version) stores?

I'm a week into using my new K3 #6884 and loving it.

73,
Hoop
K9QJS

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Re: [Elecraft] LDG antenna tuner with 132 foot balanced dipole similarto a G5RV antenna

[David Cutter]

Try an off-centre-fed dipole, you'll have lower swr at the antenna to start 
with meaning less loss in your matching unit to get it to 50ohms.  Running 
modest power you can use coax and the right balun and choke at the feedpoint 
if you can stand the weight up there.  An inverted V configuration holding 
the balun on a pole works well.  See this: 
http://www.dj0ip.de/antennas/off-center-fed-dipole/80m-ocf/


David
G3UNA


 Has anyone found a configuration that works better on all the bands?
  AE6RH
 Ron Midwin
 
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Re: [Elecraft] Panadaptor Display alternative

[David Cutter]

Hi Fred

Please clarify for me: are you saying that you use the P3 to monitor say rx 
A and the SVGA output to monitor rx B?

73

David
G3UNA

I also have an SDR-IQ and have used it on my FTDX-5000MP and my K3's. I 
will
 tell you one thing it in no way compares to the P3/SVGA nowhere close in
 function or features with your Elecraft. In fact I'm now using my P3/SVGA 
 on
 one K3 and the other K3 the SDR-IQ next week I'm ordering another P3 my
 SDR-IQ has been for sale for several weeks. A new one is $525 if that's 
 what
 you really think that's what you want I will sell you mine for $425 
 shipped
 a 10/10 in appearance and function.

 73,
 Fred/N0AZZ 

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Re: [Elecraft] KAT500 Remote Version

[David Cutter]

Indeed, the sole reason that I do not use my screwdriver vertical, it would 
wake the dead.

David
G3UNA


 Hi Wayne,

 An important consideration IMHO when designing a remote AMU (ATU), is the
 noise that it makes when tuning.  Neighbours, for some strange reason, 
 don't
 like to be awakend by the sound of relays nor tuning motors when they are
 sleeping :-)

 73,

 Geoff
 LX2AO


 On September 20, 2012 at 8:50 PM, Wayne Burdick wrote:


 It may be possible to remote the KAT500 with additional control
 firmware and an appropriate weather-proof enclosure. We haven't done
 any testing of this idea yet, but once we start shipping KAT500s,
 we'll work with a few customers who want to experiment with this to
 see what we can do to facilitate it.

 73,
 Wayne
 N6KR
 
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Re: [Elecraft] laptop power supply to power KX3

[David Cutter]

To optimise the size of the supply to the load, one could examine the rms 
current draw v peak current draw.  It might only be a case of fitting a 
large capacitor close to the radio (perhaps in a tiny box or heat shrunk 
speed bump in the cable) to supply those current peaks from a very small 
supply.  This technique is used in some supplies that use super-capacitors 
and a small switchmode for 100W transceivers.  This has the advantage of 
creating much lower switching noise which is easier/smaller/cheaper to 
filter out.

David
G3UNA

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Re: [Elecraft] Fw: Power supply?

[David Cutter]

Power supply fusing can be tricky.  It has been my practice to use ptc 
devices embedded into a transformer primary as the fuse, they're sometimes 
called everlasting fuses.  They detect temperature in their immediate 
environment (eg transformer winding) and due to self-heating.  They trip at 
a particular temperature and suddenly go high resistance, reducing current 
flow to very low (safe) level.  They can only be reset by removing the power 
completely for a short time, if the environment has cooled down enough. 
They enable very stringent Eu safety regs to met with relative ease.  Mass 
produced transformer bobbins are often made with a little pocket in the 
moulding to hold the device.

Ordinary thermal fuses are often mis-used.  Some common fuses are rated to 
blow in 30s with 2.1 times their current rating.  Many circuits cannot 
generate sufficient current so the fuse will never blow except in times of a 
dead short.  In a supply primary, thermal lag fuses are fitted to prevent 
them blowing at start-up which exacerbates the problem.  Answer: use a ptc 
device, it will protect that expensive transformer from cooking itself to 
death.

David
G3UNA




 Just a comment and a question.
 I take care of our club's repeaters. One of the power supplies failed this
 weekend. I watched as smoke came out of it.  It is 20+ years old.  Here is
 the comment;  make sure the fuse on the primary is properly matched, even 
 if
 you choose to go lighter.  (It's not good to work the PS to the max 
 anyway.)
 It may not be possible to fuse a power supply to protect everything in it,
 but at least you can protect the transformer. (I realize this thread is
 talking small for the KX3, but the subject is power supplies.)

 Question;  Elecraft radios are protected against low voltage, but what 
 about
 high voltage? I'm wondering if a FUSED Crowbar circuit would be practical.
 The fuse (if any) on the PS 12V leads  is behind the crowbar.  It seems to
 me that a versatle fused crowbar circuit would be good.
 Has anybody been there and done that? Maybe someone sells one.  I'm past 
 the
 age when I quit keeping up on components and their specs, so I appreciate
 comments aye or nay.

 Rich, n0ce
 
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Re: [Elecraft] laptop power supply to power KX3

[David Cutter]

Thinkpad used on T32C and others.

David
G3UNA


- Original Message - 
From: Jon K Hellan hel...@acm.org
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Sent: Tuesday, September 18, 2012 11:56 AM
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] laptop power supply to power KX3


 On 09/18/2012 01:44 PM, Johnny wrote:
 Yes , correct , laptop supplies are often RF noisy.

 Any particular laptop and laptop supply brands favoured by dxpeditions?

 Jon LA4RT


 Sent from my  iPhone 4

 Fred Townsend ftowns...@sbcglobal.net 於 2012年9月18日 下午2:04 寫道： 
 

 Jeff, caution.  Laptop power external supplies are designed to be 
 followed
 by precision internal regulators that handle the logic voltages and 
 charging
 the battery. The external supplies are not well regulated and can be 
 quite
 noisy.  They may not be the best supplies for ham rigs.
 73
 Fred, AE6QL

 -Original Message-
 From: elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net
 [mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of Jeff Herr
 Sent: Monday, September 17, 2012 6:40 PM
 To: 'Elecraft Reflector'
 Subject: [Elecraft] laptop power supply to power KX3

 While at work I went through our stock of power supplies for the various
 makes of laptops we use.
 I found that Toshiba supplies are specified 15v and ranged in current
 capability from 2.5 amps and up.

 Dell, Lenovo, HP, Acer, Asus all use 19v supplies.

 Those Toshiba supplies are very small.

 WW6L


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Re: [Elecraft] [K3] [P3] IF Out / IF In Cable

[David Cutter]

Wrong use of 75/50 ohm cables is a cause of unreliability on scopes: they're 
made for 75ohm connectors and if you plug in a 50ohm plug is will eventually 
splay the centre contact and cause intermittency.

David
G3UNA

Subject: Re: [Elecraft] [K3] [P3] IF Out / IF In Cable


 Yes, the cable impedance does not matter but the connectors do.  The
 75-ohm cable probably has 75-ohm BNC plugs, which as I recall have a
 smaller pin.  They might not make reliable connections with the 50-ohm
 sockets on the K3 and P3.

 Go ahead and try it, but if the connections seem flakey you should get a
 real 50-ohm cable.

 Alan N1AL


 On Sat, 2012-09-15 at 17:21 -0700, Jim Brown wrote:
 On 9/15/2012 5:01 PM, Vic K2VCO wrote:
  Just try one of the non-50-ohm cables and see if it works

 Cable impedance absolutely does not matter for such a short run at the
 IF frequency.

 73, Jim K9YC
 
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Re: [Elecraft] [K3] Phase Noise / CW Key Clicks

[David Cutter]

I'm hoping that the increase in reverse beacons will help spot the illegal 
power merchants, that will be a good start.

David
G3UNA

On 9/14/2012 1:23 AM, Jan Erik Holm wrote:
 Nothing new under the sun. It´s been around for decades. There are even
 contest stations that puts their amplifiers in class C on SSB and I´m
 not talking about small amps but things in the 5 - 10 kW region.

These guys are much closer to EU than to me in CA, so we don't hear
their trash. As long as cheaters like this are allowed to continue
without public exposure, they will continue.  I don't understand why
those EU contesters who play by the rules don't expose them. They must
make life absolutely miserable for you.

When I hear really dirty signals on the air, I DO spot them with that
note,  But I enter a wrong frequency so that they won't benefit from the
spot.

73, Jim K9YC

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Re: [Elecraft] [K3] Phase Noise / CW Key Clicks

[David Cutter]

I'm hoping that the increase in reverse beacons will help spot the illegal 
power merchants, that will be a good start.

David
G3UNA

On 9/14/2012 1:23 AM, Jan Erik Holm wrote:
 Nothing new under the sun. It´s been around for decades. There are even
 contest stations that puts their amplifiers in class C on SSB and I´m
 not talking about small amps but things in the 5 - 10 kW region.

These guys are much closer to EU than to me in CA, so we don't hear
their trash. As long as cheaters like this are allowed to continue
without public exposure, they will continue.  I don't understand why
those EU contesters who play by the rules don't expose them. They must
make life absolutely miserable for you.

When I hear really dirty signals on the air, I DO spot them with that
note,  But I enter a wrong frequency so that they won't benefit from the
spot.

73, Jim K9YC

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Re: [Elecraft] Operating from a Hotel

[David Cutter]

Use a coax-fed antenna as far away as possible, even on the roof.  Add a 
choke to reduce noise pick-up on the coax.
Your 'counterpoise' is part of the aerial and picks up from its environment 
as it's bound to do.
73
David
G3UNA

 Horrid electrical noise in hotels because of air conditioners.  I stayed 
 in
 a hotel in Redmond, WA.  I tried using my KS3 with a 28' wire extending 
 out
 from the window and a 16' counterpoise which was inside the hotel room.  I
 was not able to receive anything on any band.  All I heard was massive
 electrical noise at above S 20-40.  I believe that this electrical noise 
 was
 generated by variable speed motors in the air conditioning units.  Has
 anyone experienced this?  Any suggestions or solutions?

 Thanks,

 John Lally

 W7JJL 

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Re: [Elecraft] Portable antennas for use in UK

[David Cutter]

Hi Jon

I tried a Hams4Hams 18m pole and I am not strong enough to push it up 
vertically.  The Spider pole is even heavier, how do you extend the Spider 
pole?

73

David
G3UNA

- Original Message - 
From: Jon Kåre Hellan hel...@acm.org
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Sent: Sunday, September 09, 2012 10:27 AM
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Portable antennas for use in UK

 You could get a 12m telescopic fiberglass pole from Spiderbeam and use
 whatever wire antenna you want with it. Use it as a center support for
 an inv vee or for a wire vertical. My own crazy balcony antenna is a
 full size vertical for 40m with two radials, can be erected or taken
 down in less than a minute. http://www.ha19.no/la4rt/balcony.jpg. The K3
 tuner is able to tune it on all bands from 80m to 6m, that's when I'm
 lazy. It's also easy to take it down and put up an antenna cut for a
 different band, if you worry about loss or want to use an amp. I
 understand that the tuner in the KX3 is just as versatile as the one in
 the K3.

 Used as a support for an inv vee, don't use the top two or three
 sections. They're too flimsy.

 73
 Jon LA4RT
 
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Re: [Elecraft] Swains Island

[David Cutter]

Atmospherics can play a big part in intelligibility that no rx can resolve. 
On T32C I had what I think would be called whispering galleries:  the signal 
circled the world a few times filling in gaps with each pass, so all I heard 
was a continuous tone.  This went on for almost all of a 4 hour shift as the 
caller tried to get in.  Near the end of my shift it started to break up and 
I could hear all the elements of his call and worked him immediately.  He 
was a good signal.  I'm not saying that was the cause here, but I did learn 
a lesson.

David
G3UNA


- Original Message - 
From: Gary Gregory garyvk...@gmail.com
To: Bob K6UJ k...@pacbell.net
Cc: Elecraft elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Sent: Monday, September 10, 2012 9:51 PM
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Swains Island


 *(TIC)well all I can say is that is not working...:-)

 I was very surprised to hear very good operators NOT being able to
 distinguish call signs over and over again.

 I thought it was me so I went up to listen in the pileup from JA and
 granted they are sometimes S9+20 with the 'weaker' ones @ S9 BUT I am able
 to hear several call signs clearly and I wrote them down as I listened.

 I mentioned this to another K3 owner with 59 years experience (I'm a
 relative newbie at this) and he cam back after several minutes and made 
 the
 same comment.

 Whilst I don't want to come across as too biased, I was just making an
 observation based on my perception. I will say that here their audio is
 excellent and the operators are extremely patient and polite. So Kudo's to
 all the operators I have heard so far.

 I do find it interesting when I think back to some recent Dxpeditions and
 the way the operators could grab full call signs and were logging stations
 quickly. From memory most of these were using K3's and the pileups were
 pretty chaotic as usual.

 Worked them on 80/20/15 and 10M but the WARC bands are proving
 problematical for me with just a dipole to work with against the 
 pileup..:-(

 73
 *
 On 11 September 2012 07:29, Bob K6UJ k...@pacbell.net wrote:

 I think that Icom is getting tired of seeing the K3's being the preferred
 rig for dxpeditions and decided
 to provide the IC-7600's for the Swains Island dxpedition in hopes of
 improving their image.   :-)


 Bob
 K6UJ




 On Sep 10, 2012, at 1:47 PM, Gary Gregory wrote:

  *Tony,
 
  I have worked them on 4 bands so far bbut I have noticed they 
  continually
  ask for a partial call sign to be repeated. By this I noticed they will
 ask
  the station ending in Tango your call? and they do this with almost
 every
  call and most of the time on all bands.
 
  Listening to the pileup I am able to clearly distinguish quite a few
 calls
  and I am not that far away from them by distance.
 
  You have to wonder if their job would have been easier IF they were 
  using
  K3's
 
  :-)
  *
  On 11 September 2012 00:33, Tony Estep estept...@gmail.com wrote:
 
  The NH8S expedition, partly sponsored by Elecraft,  has been going
 strong
  for a while and will be running until the 19th. Swains Island is the
 31st
  most-needed DX country, according to DX News. They are using KPA500
 amps,
  although not K3s (tsk-tsk). For whatever reason, the pileups have not
 been
  too bad, and the ops are excellent. Their site is NH8S.org
 
  Tony KT0NY
 
 
  --
  http://www.isb.edu/faculty/facultydir.aspx?ddlFaculty=352
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  *Gary*
  *Start the day off slow, then taper off.*
  K3 #679
  KPA500FT #18
  KAT500FT 007
  P3 #1629
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 -- 
 *Gary*
 *Start the day off slow, then taper off.*
 K3 #679
 KPA500FT #18
 KAT500FT 007
 P3 #1629
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