Re: [Elecraft] Low activity

[Mark Petiford via Elecraft]

 I posted the question, "What is the BEST antenna to use with my K???" as a 
"tongue-in-cheek" question to see if it would generate some activity, and it 
was wildly successful.  I posted it at about 12:30pm PDT and it is now almost 
5pm PDT.  There are over a dozen responses, and at least two threads spawned.  
That question ALWAYS generates LOTS of activity.  I guess it is because there 
is no single answer to it.     

  
--Mark, KE6BB

  
 
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Re: [Elecraft] Windows update clobbered me

[Mark Petiford via Elecraft]

Re:  "It is a shame that more good, useful, and easy to operate software is not 
available for Linux. Notice that I said good, useful, and easy to 
operate!"


...and easy to install!  Many experienced Linux users aren't much help, either. 
 I spent several months getting Quisk installed on my Raspberry Pi.  Users on 
various blogs provided information complete with typographical errors, 
incorrect instructions that some "advisors" eventually admitted had not 
actually been tried and just might not work, and even insults like, "If you 
need to know how to do this then you will already know!"  Huh?


I don't find Linux to be the the idealistic place I am told that it is.  If all 
you want to do is use canned packages that are available using a "store" or 
apt-get, then it works mostly fine for new Linux users.  Most ham applications 
are not available that way, so old timers like me struggle.  BTW, I have used a 
lot of mainframe Unix software during my career.  The difference was that I 
didn't have to get it working.  IT did that!  I was paid to design products, 
not install software.





Mark,KE6BB



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Re: [Elecraft] Alpha Antenna/KX3.

[Mark Petiford via Elecraft]

 Gene,

I don't usually comment on products like antennas.  I cannot, however, resist 
this one:

I cannot comment on the current Alpha Antenna Mag Loop, because I don't have 
one.  My Alpha loop is 4 or 5 years old.  It was on sale and heavily 
discounted, so I purchased it without looking into its construction.  After I 
bought it I learned that is wasn't worth much of anything.  I won't tell you 
how much I paid for it; even on sale I am embarrassed.


Keep in mind that one of the contributors to inefficiencies in a mag loop is 
the resistance of the loop (which is the inductor) and parallel capacitor.  The 
first contributor of resistance was the overlapping anodized aluminum sections 
that were bolted together.  Each overlap had a few milliohms or more of 
resistance.  With 8 of these joints, the resistance added up, and a few 
milliohms is a lot in a tank circulation circuit.


The second bad feature was the capacitor.  Again, the resistance must be kept 
to a minimum.  The lossy part of a variable capacitor is the wipers that 
transfer current from the rotor (which moves) to a terminal that doesn't so you 
can pick the current up there.  The way to eliminate that resistance is to use 
a butterfly capacitor (which are had to find), or use a dual section capacitor. 
 Current goes in one stator, to the rotor, and out through the other stator.  
You end up with 2 caps in series, and no wipers in the current path.

I never made a contact with the antenna except very local ones.  I have had 
much better success with the 26ft. wire and 16 ft. counterpose Walter (K6WRU) 
mentioned (exact dimensions are NOT important), and I would have almost $300 
back in my pocket.  Oops!  I almost let the price slip.

That was the first antenna I had purchased in 40 years.  It left such a bad 
taste in my mouth that I went out to Palomar Engineers website and bought Kurt 
N. Sterba's book, "Kurt Speaks Out" and read it from cover to cover.  I feel 
better now.  The antenna sits in the back of my garage waiting to be broken 
down for parts.  It has a great tripod, and a nifty little RF indicator in the 
form of a neon bulb.  I will probably give the cap to some young ham to use in 
a transmitter project.


Do what Jim (K9YC) said!  Get educated first, then do your research on how the 
thing is made and works before you buy.  If Alpha has improved the antenna, I 
would love to hear about it.

I just checked their website, and it appears they have switched to coax for the 
loop.  Much better.  I cannot see what capacitor they use.

Sorry, Eric.  Way too long!


Mark
KE6BB

KX3, AX1, and some wire.


   
 On Tuesday, June 4, 2019, 8:19:50 AM PDT, Gene Moore via Elecraft 
 wrote:  
 
 I have just submitted my order for my KX3. As part of the next step, I am 
continuing my search for an antenna. At this point, I am leaning towards an 
Alpha Antenna mag loop. 
  
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Re: [Elecraft] Tinnitus and the K3 RX EQ and Related Variables

[Mark Petiford via Elecraft]

 Re. Gwen, NG3P comment:  I should probably see an audiologist someday. I've 
had nasty tinnitus as
long as I can remember.

Yes, you should...no, you MUST!  It is amazing how much hearing deficiencies 
affect us and we don't even know it.  I am not a doctor or audiologist, but I 
suspect that if you have tinnitus, you probably have some hearing loss.


 There are lots of good instruments (hearing aids) on the market today spread 
over a wide price range.  I have tried many of them (including Kirkland brand 
from Costco), and they all differ somewhat, but have one thing in common.  They 
are only as good as the audiologist who adjusts them (in my case the Costco 
audiologist was not very good), and your willingness to allow your brain to 
accept them (your brain must learn to use them).  If either of these are 
factors are not there, you are wasting your money, and you will continue to 
suffer.  You may not realize you are suffering, but everyone around you will.

Do not expect immediate results.  You may hate them initially.  You can hear 
yourself talk...and breathe!  Wear them anyway, all day long when possible.  Do 
not expect things to be perfect after one visit to the audiologist.  Do not 
expect the tinnitus to go away immediately, or stay away!  It all takes time.  
You must learn.  The brain responds to suggestions, so with my instruments in 
and operating, I am experiencing ringing simply because I am reading and 
writing on this thread.  I do know that it will go away once my mind is 
distracted to a different topic.  Before hearing aids, there was no relief.  
The ringing was with me most all the time, and it was driving me crazy!

Sorry, I probably pulled this a bit more off-topic, but I feel that it is 
important for us to fix our own hearing problem rather than expecting Elecraft 
to compensate for all of it.  I know that I had started to shut the world 
around me completely out because I couldn't hear things clearly.  I demonstrate 
that to myself when I forget to put my instruments in when I wake up in the 
mornings.

Mark
KE6BB

 

On Wednesday, March 27, 2019, 6:31:13 PM PDT, Gwen Patton 
 wrote:  
 
 I should probably see an audiologist someday. I've had nasty tinnitus as
long as I can remember. I spent most of my youth around loud musical
instruments, having begun playing brass instruments in 3rd grade. I've been
in many loud environments since, even though I don't recall it being a lot
of times until around 2001, when I got into shooting. But I always used
really good hearing protection.


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Re: [Elecraft] K4?

[Mark Petiford via Elecraft]

 RE:  "What is most desirable when combining analog controls and digital 
interfaces is the ability to assign functions to various switches and 
buttons..."

EXCELLENT, Doug!!!  The best of both worlds!

In the aircraft world, both pilots have several multi-display screens, each 
with an array of hardware buttons arranged around them.  While their individual 
buttons may not be re-assignable, each display can be assigned to a specific 
function such as flight instruments, fuel system, weapons system, radar, etc.

In the case of a K4, that amount of real estate isn't available in a reasonable 
radio size, so the ability to assign functions to each button would be the next 
best thing.  User customizable hardware, beautiful color touch screen, 
flexibility for future expansion/changes, Elecraft ingenuity.

Mark
KE6BB

On Monday, March 25, 2019, 1:19:08 PM PDT, Doug Person  
wrote:  
 
 What is most desirable when combining analog controls and digital 
interfaces is the ability to assign functions to various switches and 
buttons. These can be arranged around the screen so that the control 
labels can be "soft" while the controls themselves are "hard". E.g., not 
everyone uses squelch, or rarely change cw sending speed. Being able to 
customize your control configuration would be very desirable. Different 
modes, different functions assigned to controls. This way, the number of 
controls are minimized while providing the best combination of hard 
controls for a particular mode or operating environment.

Doug -- KJ0F

  
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Re: [Elecraft] K4?

[Mark Petiford via Elecraft]

 RE:  "...They can also be replaced."

...and prices have come way down in the last 5 years or so.

Mark,
KE6BB



On Monday, March 25, 2019, 8:52:33 AM PDT, Doug Person  
wrote:  
 
 Modern screens last a long time and don't suffer nearly as much from 
burn-in. They can also be replaced.

Doug -- KJ0F

  
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Re: [Elecraft] The case against touch screens

[Mark Petiford via Elecraft]

 RE:   "...a large percentage of the time a touch screen does not respond to my 
finger."

I thought it was just me!  I also have a problem with selecting the wrong 
thing, which is extremely time consuming and frustrating.  That is probably due 
to my essential tremors which have increased with my age, as expected.  That 
kept me from selling my KX3 and buying an IC-7300 (LOVE the screen!)...well, 
that and portability and Elecraft support and the KX3 receiver and...

Mark
KE6BB


On Monday, March 25, 2019, 11:53:30 AM PDT, Al Lorona 
 wrote:  
 
 ...It must be just me, because a large percentage of the time a touch screen 
does not respond to my finger. I have experienced this at ATMs, at the self 
checkout at Home Depot, at the airport, on my smart phone, etc. When you have 
to stand there, tapping over and over to get them to respond, touch screens 
just aren't as reliable, responsive, accurate, or fast as a control.


...I'm a little surprised others haven't had the same experience as Thaddeus. 
Maybe they're just too shy to admit it.


The next time you tap something on your phone, and you have to tap again to get 
it to work, I want you to think of me.


Al  W6LX
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Re: [Elecraft] The case against touch screens

[Mark Petiford via Elecraft]

 RE:  You assume that touch screens are inherently unreliable. Try to convince 
and F22 pilot of that, or a 777 gunnery crew.

You assume that aircraft with flat panel displays utilize touch screens.  The 
military aircraft I have worked (Design Engineering) that have flat panel 
displays do NOT utilize touch displays.  The reasons are primarily touch 
resolution, and stability.

Military pilots must be able to select functions while wearing heavy gloves, so 
they do not have great resolution as to where their touch will land.  They must 
also be able to reliably select functions during high G loading, both natural 
(turbulence) and induced (maneuvering).  Consequently, their flat displays 
usually consist of the main display, surrounded by hardware buttons (switches) 
which are separated with raised "dividers" or "walls" to separate the buttons. 
These buttons have small on-screen labels that change depending on which screen 
is being displayed.  We used to call these "soft buttons".


I could go on, but will stop with that.  While I love the modern flat screen 
color displays (my uBITX will have one soon),  I must side with Wayne in that 
the functions that must be addressed when time is critical (can't remember how 
Wayne described it) should be hard buttons or "soft buttons" noted above).

Mark,
KE6BB



On Monday, March 25, 2019, 8:45:26 AM PDT, Doug Person  
wrote:  
 
 You assume that touch screens are inherently unreliable. Try to convince 
and F22 pilot of that, or a 777 gunnery crew. There is so much military 
hardware that is dependent on touch screens that your argument just 
doesn't hold up. This technology is decades old now. You may find some 
poorly designed stuff that is unreliable. But, its due to poor design - 
both physically and in software. Hopefully, if there is a touch screen 
K4, the K3s will stay around for those that prefer buttons and switches.

Doug -- KJ0F


  
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Re: [Elecraft] VFO NR

[Mark Petiford via Elecraft]

 Re:  "But here's the trick: hold the RATE(KHZ) button. It should unlock. 
Don'task how I figured this out."


It is in the Owners Manual at the top of the "Menu Functions" table.  Page 35 
in manual revisions B5 thru C5.  It says:

"To change any tech-mode parameter, you must first unlock it by holding KHZ for 
about 3 seconds.  This turns off the lock symbol."

If you have the optional KXFL3 filter board installed, it can be the source of 
much of the tuning noise on the early serial number units.  A simple mod to the 
roofing filter board is described here:

http://www.elecraft.com/manual/KX3%20Tuning%20Noise%20Mod%20rev%20B3.pdf


I highly recommend that mod.  Before I did it, I could not hear any signals 
while tuning across the band on 28mhz and higher.  It is simple, and probably 
took me less than 15 minutes.  It eliminated almost all the tuning noise on my 
s/n 3500 KX3.

Mark,
KE6BB


   
  
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Re: [Elecraft] Bat Err in KX3

[Mark Petiford via Elecraft]

 Re:  "Could the batteries have died from having been ignored for so long?"

Although I have never experienced this with quality Low Self Discharge (LSD) 
NiMH cells, it may have happened.  I have experienced this with non-LSD NiMH 
cells, and they just aren't worth the time and effort to use.

I suggest you remove the cells and check the voltage across each one 
individually using a voltmeter.  Any cell that has dropped below 1 volt has 
most likely been damaged and should not be reused.  If any of the cells are 
below 1 volt, it may be best to replace all 8 cells and save yourself later 
frustration.

Using old cells intermixed with new cells isn't really good practice since 
their capacities will differ. That results in reverse charging of the old cells 
as the set of cells is depleted, causing quick failure of the remaining old 
cells.  It just isn't worth messing with.

Just as a data point, I just now powered my KX3 up after it had been tucked 
away in my backpack for over a year since they were last recharged.  The 
voltage as indicated by the KX3 display was 9.9 volts, which is about 1.2 volts 
per cell, the nominal voltage for NiMH cells.  They are Eneloop 2000 cells and 
are over 5 years old.  I suspect that their capacity has decreased and their 
voltage will drop quickly when I transmit.   Probably time for me to get a 
fresh set of Eneloops.

Mark
KE6BB   

 On Saturday, March 31, 2018, 4:38:36 PM PDT, Dauer, Edward  
wrote:  
 
 My KX3 has been sitting idle for many months...  
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Re: [Elecraft] Best Batteries for KX-3?

[Mark Petiford via Elecraft]

 First, and most important, don't leave alkaline cells in your radio for long 
periods.  They will eventually leak.  If you have the KXBC3 installed, I 
suggest high quality Low Self Discharge (LSD) NiMh cells such as Eneloops,  If 
you don't have the KXBC3 installed, non-rechargeable Lithium cells would be a 
good choice, although those are pretty pricey where I live.  I could quickly 
justify the cost of a KXBC3 based on the price of non-rechargeable Lithium 
cells.

The Eneloop LSD Rechargeable cells have a great track record.  I've had my 
Eneloop 2000 cells since February 2013 with no problems.  I think I am finally 
just starting to detect signs of reduced capacity, so maybe it is time to 
upgrade them to the newer, higher capacity Eneloops.

I have tried non-LSD NiMH cells from time to time, but they really don't work 
very well.  They quickly self-discharge to below 1 volt per cell, damaging 
themselves in the process.  Don't waste you money on them.  Cells that are 
shipped fully charged are usually LSD.
   
 On Wednesday, February 28, 2018, 7:27:18 PM PST, Dennis W0JX via Elecraft 
 wrote:  
 
 I have just put my KX-3 into portable service trying to locate noise sources 
around my property and neighborhood. I put eight brand new Duracell alkaline 
cells...  I am surprised with how fast the battery voltage is dropping as 
indicated by the KX-3 display. What batteries would be better to use for this 
application where I might be out for as long as two hours looking for noise 
sources?
  
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Re: [Elecraft] KX3 Roofing Filter Question

[Mark Petiford via Elecraft]

 Re:  "If you do choose the roofing filter, be certain you do the calibration 
if it is a kit."


Don,

My kit build KX3 instruction manual says that I don't have to do the 
calibration if I ordered the filters WITH my KX3 kit:

"If you received the optional KXFL3 filter with your kit, you do not need to 
perform theReceiver Sideband alignment procedure referenced in the Owner’s 
manual and describedin detail in the KXFL3 option manual. That procedure was 
done for you at the factory."

That was back in 2013, so maybe things have changed. 

Mark,
KE6BB


   
  
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Re: [Elecraft] kxpd3 question

[Mark Petiford via Elecraft]

 Jerome,
I'm not sure why anyone would go through the process of learning to send CW and 
do it "single paddle".  Every radio in production supports one, or both, Iambic 
modes, and they are actually easier to LEARN than they are to UNDERSTAND!  Here 
is my 2-cents worth:

1.  The best method of sending will be the one you learn first.  This is true 
of MOST things we learn.  That doesn't mean you can't learn a second method 
later, but USUALLY the first method will come back to you the easiest.

2.  Reading about the differences in Iambic keying is far more complex than 
slowing the keyer down and listening to what happens.  Slow down to around 
10wpm, hold one paddle down and tap the other to learn how dit or dah insertion 
works and sounds.  Hold both paddles down and listen to what happens when you 
release them.  Play with it, but do it at slow speed so you can hear it.  I am 
NOT talking about learning characters yet.  That should happen at much faster 
speeds, and after you know what the paddles do to make dots and dashes at the 
right times.  After playing with this for as long as you need, speed it up a 
bit and play some more.  Eventually you can work up to the speed CW Ops 
recommends for learning the characters.

3.  Stop trying to decide between Iambic A and B based on the analysis of what 
they do or how many paddle movements are required.  You can listen to the 
differences as I have outlined in 2 above, but simply PICK ONE.  I happen to 
like Iambic B because I learned on a homebrew AccuKeyer which died years ago.  
I can switch to Iambic A with a few minutes of practice, but I prefer Iambic B 
simply because it doesn't seem to be as sensitive to paddle release after 
holding both paddles closed in the letter C.  Oops, there I go with too much 
analysis!

4.  Dual paddles can be used as a single paddle.  I suspect most of the single 
paddle operatiors were extensive bug users first (again, first learned is the 
easiest), but I couldn't afford a bug, so I learned Iambic B.  I find that 
transitioning from Iambic B to single paddle is easy.  I do that when necessary 
at events like Field Day.

5.  No more maintenance is required for dual paddle modes than for any other 
mode.  It all depends on what you learned first and what you use the most.  In 
aviation, a pilot's total flight time is important, but accident reports 
indicate that recent experience is also important.  Look at the aviation 
regulations for recent experience and you will see what I mean.  Same for CW.

Well, I went over 2 cents worth!

Mark
KE6BB


On Thursday, November 9, 2017, 6:32:28 AM PST, JEROME SODUS 
 wrote:  
 
 
Having researched the topic of 'paddles' and from that effort, I think that a 
single paddle might work best for me.

Here are the negative items which helped form that opinion:

1. a comment that regular practice is needed to maintain competence with a 
dual-paddle,

2. iambic-a or iambic-b just seem physically complicated.

  
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Re: [Elecraft] QRPworks SideKar

[Mark Petiford via Elecraft]

Ted,


Re:  "I would appreciate hearing from anyone who is willing to share their 
experience with it."

I can't speak to the SideKar, but I can speak to the support the company 
provides.  I purchased a Ham Central Terminal (HCT, forerunner of the SideKar) 
from a list member for use with my KX3.  Sometime later I learned that there 
was new firmware for the HCT, so I sent an e-mail to QRP Works, explaining I 
was interested in the upgrade but that I had not purchased the unit from them.  
They replied with the new firmware and the utility to install it.  When I had a 
problem with the installation, they provided additional suggestions, and the 
firmware load was successful.  I believe this was over and above what they were 
required to do. 


 I use the HCT for keyboard support for the KX3's native digital modes, and to 
provide backup decoding of CW.  I prefer to copy CW in my head but refer to the 
HCT occasionally for something I may have missed.  Logging appears to be 
useful, but I haven't taken the time to learn it yet.


Mark,
KE6BB



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Re: [Elecraft] KX3 - Switching power source while operating

[Mark Petiford via Elecraft]

Grant,

RE:  "Seems to me the most straightforward approach would be to put a set of 
batteries in the KX3.  Then you can drop and restart external power without 
worrying about the time delay."

That was exactly my first thought as well.  It certainly works fine on receive 
and it solves the "improper shutdown forgetfulness" problem, but i'm not sure I 
want to pull out the power cord during transmit to see what happens.  I just 
don't know enough about the power control feedback loop to know how it would 
react to a sudden change in voltage.


Anyone want to put their KX3 into transmit and then pull out the power cable to 
see what happens?  Oh yea, then put it back in and see what happens.  Voltage 
transients like this are a very important part of aircraft electronics since 
bus switching and even EMP events induce such transients, but I would doubt if 
that was a design requirement for the KX3.  It is likely, however, that it has 
been tested inadvertently by now ;-)


Mark
KE6BB

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Re: [Elecraft] A VALUABLE FIELD DAY ACCESSORY

[Mark Petiford via Elecraft]

RE:  "If you find one, let me know"

Walter,

There are portable aircraft intercoms available from aviation suppliers like 
Sporty's Pilot Shop, and possibly from Amazon, too.  They allow the passengers 
to talk to each other, and listen to the radio communications if they desire.   
The pilot can listen to only radio communications, or he can listen to the 
passenger chit-chat if he wants, with communications audio from the radio 
overriding that.  The pilot's mike goes to the radio for communications 
purposes if he pushes the PTT switch, or to the passengers chit-chat if he 
doesn't.

The biggest problem with these intercoms is that they are designed for carbon 
microphones and higher impedance headphones than we normally use.  I have seen 
circuits for converting stereo headphones and dynamic/electret microphones to 
work in aircraft, but not so much in the opposite direction.  That won't be a 
problem for the resourceful hams, but I suspect they won't work right out of 
the box.

Just a thought.

Mark
KE6BB
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Re: [Elecraft] KX2 Battery Question

[Mark Petiford via Elecraft]

Re:   "I'll just reply with https://www.kaptontape.com/Conductive_Tapes.php ... 
There may be more than one type, but I'm not an expert at this." 

Matt,
That isn't really made from Kapton.  Take a look at the Technical Datasheet for 
that tape (link on upper right corner of the page).  It is "made from a copper 
foil with an acrylic conductive adhesive."  It is tricky because the company 
name is "KaptonTape.com", but that particular product has no Kapton in it.  


Contrast that with a true Kapton tape from the same company:

https://www.kaptontape.com/1_Mil_Kapton_Tapes.php

Note that its datasheet states that it is a dielectric tape made from DuPont 
Kapton (r).  Its insulation resistance is stated to be 1,000,000 mega ohms for 
the 1 mil tape.


Mark,
KE6BB


 

   
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Re: [Elecraft] KX2 Battery Question

[Mark Petiford via Elecraft]

RE: Kapton tape


Matt,

Kapton is actually a pretty good insulator, but it is NOT a good material to 
prevent abrasion.  The aircraft industry tried to use it as wire insulation, 
and as an anti-abrasion wrap around entire wire bundles.  Unfortunately, some 
manufacturers jumped the gun and implemented it without testing, using 
"qualification by analysis" as their basis for using it.  I must admit that it 
SEEMS like it would do those jobs well.  


It turns out that when we tested it, we found that it doesn't do well in a high 
humidity and high vibration environments, and doesn't withstand chaffing very 
well either.  We rejected its use, but not before we had wire harnesses already 
in production using Kapton insulated wires.  Needless to say, we had to rework 
those harnesses.  I don't know if the FAA issued an Airworthiness Directive 
against those aircraft that were delivered using Kapton insulation, but there 
was discussion of that

Mark,
KE6BB


  From: Matt Zilmer 
 To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net 
 Sent: Saturday, May 27, 2017 2:22 PM
 Subject: Re: [Elecraft] KX2 Battery Question
   
Someone mentioned Kapton tape earlier, to be used to insulate the
battery side of the PCBA.  Kapton tape is conductive and used mostly for
EMI shielding.  Putting it or other tapes (some electrical tapes) on the
the PCBA would probably change electrical characteristics - conduction
between unmasked vias/pads, etc.

I would avoid using Kapton if you want an insulator.

Just thought this might benefit someone later on.

73,

matt W6NIA


On 05/27/2017 10:42 AM, Wayne Burdick wrote:
> There are no components anywhere near the battery. The bottom of the RF board 
> in this area was left completely clear specifically to avoid the need for any 
> supplemental insulating material.
>
> 73,
> Wayne
> N6KR
>
>
>
>> On May 27, 2017, at 10:14 AM, Peter Pauly  wrote:
>>
>> I would have liked to see a big piece of kapton tape covering the board. 
>> Aren't the components ESD sensitive?
>>
>> On Sat, May 27, 2017 at 10:23 AM, Tim McDonough N9PUZ  
>> wrote:
>> On 5/27/2017 12:14 AM, Wayne Burdick wrote:
>> I have a "new to me" KX2 along with the internal battery and charger. Inside 
>> the KX2 battery compartment, is there supposed to be any sort of insulating 
>> sheet or pad covering the circuit board?
>>
>> No insulating sheet is necessary. The battery is double shrink-wrapped, 
>> there are no parts on that area of the PC board, and there’s nothing sharp 
>> that could abrade the plastic covering. It’s all quite safe.
>>
>> There is of course a rubberized pad on the inside of the bottom cover. This 
>> creates high friction to keep the battery from moving around.
>>
>>
>> Very good. Great radio and I just didn't want to mess anything up.
>>
>> Thank you Wayne!
>>
>> 73,
>>
>> Tim N9PUZ
>>
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-- 
"Always store beer in a dark place." -- R. Heinlein

Matt Zilmer, W6NIA
[Voignier]

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Re: [Elecraft] Can I overcharge the batteries in my KX3

[Mark Petiford via Elecraft]

First of all, forget the Nicads.  The KX3 isn't really designed for Nicads, and 
they have a lot of problems such as excessive self discharge, and leakage.  If 
you want rechargeable cells, use modern low self discharge (LSD) nickle-metal 
hydride (NiMH) cells.  Eneloops are one example, and probably the most popular. 
 The KX3 manual discusses the use of them in the Internal Batteries section.  
Usually LSD NiMH cells are sold in a charged condition.  Once installed, they 
can sit in your radio for long periods losing very little of their charge.  I 
have never seen a modern NiMH cell leak, unless they are discharged to less 
than 1.0 volts per cell.  The KX3 prevents this with its adjustable battery 
warning and automatic shutdown.


Assuming you are using LSD NiMh cells of at least 2000mah in size.  The KXBC3 
charger is a 200ma - 250 ma (approx.) constant current charger which is about 
0.1 times the capacity of the cells.  That is a perfect constant current charge 
for 2000mah cells or larger.  Cell manufacturers' guidelines for these cells 
state that is isn't likely that you will overcharge using this method but they 
suggest you not leave the charge on constantly like you would when using a 
trickle charger.  (A trickle charge rate would be about 1/4th of the KXBC3 
charge rate, if my memory is correct).  Since the KXBC3 also monitors cell 
temperature, it complies with the manufacturers' recommendations.  It will only 
charge while the cell temperature is within limits, and will suspend charging 
until the temperature returns to normal.

In reality, MiMH cells work best when charged somewhat longer than necessary.  
That allows the lowest charged cells to be brought up to a fully charged 
condition.  They are self-leveling.


Mark
KE6BB   

On Thursday, May 4, 2017 3:40 PM, Jerry  wrote:
 

 Hello,

 

I am about to take a month long trip to California and then back to Virginia
starting this Sunday. I am taking my KX3 along with some accessories so I
would like to know - is it possible to overcharge the NiCads or Enloops. I
have a system set up on my motorcycle that will provide 13.8vdc at 3 amps
clamped.  for charging some 12 v sealed lead batteries and I am wondering if
I use this output voltage and set the timer to 8 hours on the KX3 charging
system, can I overcharge the batteries and ruin them or worse the internals
of the KX3?

 

Thank you.

 

Best regards,

 

Jerry, W1IE

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Re: [Elecraft] KX3 Internal battery issue

[Mark Petiford via Elecraft]

Oops!  Pressed SEND before signing my previous e-mail.
Mark, 
KE6BB
 

On Monday, April 10, 2017 10:14 AM, Mark Petiford <rv6am...@yahoo.com> 
wrote:
 

 Tony,
Your voltages are NOT normal.  Matt's suggestions are good ones.  You should 
also, as soon as possible, take the cells out of the holder and do two things:


   
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Re: [Elecraft] KX3 Internal battery issue

[Mark Petiford via Elecraft]

Tony,
Your voltages are NOT normal.  Matt's suggestions are good ones.  You should 
also, as soon as possible, take the cells out of the holder and do two things:
1.  Inspect each cell for damage to the plastic cover that is around each cell. 
 Look around the positive terminal for damage that plastic cover.  That can 
cause a short in that cell.  Check the side of each cell for damage caused by a 
battery holder attach screw that is too long.  If the builder used the wrong 
screw when attaching the holder, it can extend beyond the surface of the 
battery holder and damage the plastic causing a short to ground.  Elecraft 
issued and alert to check the holder for the proper screw length.  I can't 
emphasize enough that damage to the plastic covering is unacceptable.  I don't 
think that this is the most likely cause since the cells return to a reasonable 
voltage while resting.
2.  Measure the voltage of each cell.  After charging and resting for an hour 
or so, they should all be within about 0.1 volt of each other.  A little more 
variation is OK for cells that are partially discharged.  Be careful when 
probing the positive terminal.  It is easy to short the cell if the plastic 
cover does not extend completely around the top of the cell.  That falls under 
item 1 above.

These are good steps to take a few times per year.  Matt's suggestion of 
looking at the current draw is important.  That should help isolate the source 
(radio vs. cells) of the problem.  

It is possible that the wrong screws were used somewhere during the radio's 
build and one extends too far causing a short in the supply.  Elecraft supplies 
all the proper screws for the job, but it is easy to put the wrong one in the 
wrong place.  I don't know what your situation is, but you may want to consider 
returning the radio to the builder for repair.

FYI, I have never seen a bad Eneloops from the factory, but it is possible.   

On Monday, April 10, 2017 7:54 AM, Matt Zilmer  
wrote:
 

 You may have a bad cell in your Eneloops.  Try monitoring the current 
drain while discharging the battery.  At idle, it should be200 mA or 
less.  If it's much more than that, there may be a different problem 
with the KX3 itself. 

   
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Re: [Elecraft] T-1 tuner stopped tuning

[Mark Petiford via Elecraft]

 Re:  " I have excactly (sic)  the same problem with the big MFJ-927 tuner and 
the preprogrammed chip replacement from the company made no cure"

No, wait, what???  You have the same problem with a tuner make by a different 
manufacturer?   It is time to start looking for items that are in your system 
no matter which tuner or antenna you are using.  Don't ignore the radio side of 
the tuner.  An intermittent short or open in a connector or coax on the INPUT 
side of the tuner will cause the tuner to be unable to figure out what 
frequency you are on since it can generate square waves with harmonics well 
above HF.  Look for items that are common no matter which tuner you are using, 
and don't forget the radio itself.

Mark
KE6BB

   
 

   
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Re: [Elecraft] (OT) CW Resonant Speaker

[Mark Petiford via Elecraft]

I think a pipe with a speaker in the end is considered a closed end cylinder, 
but I am not completely sure.  If so, resonant lengths are shorter.  Here is 
the page from one of my favorite websites if you are interested in 
experimenting with resonant speakers:

http://hyperphysics.phy-astr.gsu.edu/hbase/Waves/opecol.html#c1

Good educational website from Georgia State University.


Mark,
KE6BB


On Friday, February 17, 2017 2:14 PM, Mike Furrey  
wrote:
 

 I have not but you certainly can do it. The length of the tube will determine 
the peak resonant frequency and you would have to experiment with the length to 
tune it to the pitch you like best to listen to. 
Remember the days you would blow across a bottle to make a tone? The more you 
drank out of the bottle the lower the pitch. 
I like this project and I am going to build one and it will be with a straight 
tube mounted on a little stand so it aims towards me.
73, Mike WA5POK
 

    On Friday, February 17, 2017 12:58 PM, P.J.Hicks  
wrote:
 

 Has anyone built the resonator with a straight length of tube? Perhaps 
terminated with a 45 deg. cut? 
Might be an interesting experiment. 

The 45 deg long radius street elbow in 2" is an order only item in my area so 
thought I'd substitute a straight length. 

PJH, N7PXY 
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Re: [Elecraft] (OT) CW RESONANT SPEAKER

[Mark Petiford via Elecraft]

In the late 70's, I used a Sky Tec CW-1 resonant speaker.  $9.95 USD in 1977.   
It worked very well and had a very sweet sound.  A sleeve in the top allowed 
pitch adjustment.  I still have it, somewhere around here...

When I first got my KX3, I considered duplicating it (it is made primarily out 
of PVC pipe) so I could use two of them to take advantage the KX3's audio 
special effects.  So many projects, so little time. 


Mark,
KE6BB 

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Re: [Elecraft] Elecraft Digest, Vol 153, Issue 41

[Mark Petiford via Elecraft]

Re:  << The "real time" (sort of) clock is powered from the batteries if the rig
is in the OFF state, and not connected to external power.  I too have
had the internal cells drain as a result.  >>


What brand of cells are you using and how long does it take them to deplete?  
If the cells are healthy and are truly low self discharge NiMH cells, they 
should not deplete much over a period of a few weeks or even months, even 
taking real time clock current into account.


For example, my 4 year old Eneloop 2000 cells haven't been recharged for well 
over 8 months.  The radio has been sitting in my day pack, ready to go, for all 
of that time, with a weekly power on cycle using battery power to be sure 
everything is OK.  I just did that again this morning and the battery voltage 
readout says 9.4 volts.  I suspect most of that discharge was from those 
occasional power on cycles since I sometimes check it out by transmitting on 
several bands.


The real-time clock does, however, gain a lot of time during that period.  I 
can live with that.

Mark
KE6BB 

On Monday, January 30, 2017 6:09 AM, Dave B via Elecraft 
 wrote:
 

 The "real time" (sort of) clock is powered from the batteries if the rig
is in the OFF state, and not connected to external power.  I too have
had the internal cells drain as a result.

I now keep the rig connected to the shack DC supply, even when it is not
in use, just to prevent the demise of the cell's, but also of course
keeps the clock running.

Doesn’t need much current, probably a generic 14V wall wart would run
the clock, and allow periodic battery top up if deemed necessary.

73.

Dave G0WBX.


On 30/01/17 03:50, elecraft-requ...@mailman.qth.net wrote:
> Date: Mon, 30 Jan 2017 01:10:42 +
> From: Lee Thompson 
> To: Jim Rhodes , "elecraft@mailman.qth.net"
>     
> Subject: Re: [Elecraft] KX3 internal battery problem
> Message-ID:
>     
> 
>     
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="Windows-1252"
>
> I?ve seen the Bat ERR message also, but the radio still functions and after a 
> few attempts I can get it to charge.
>
> Lee, WA8QFE
>
>
>
> Sent from Mail for Windows 10
>
>
>
> From: Jim Rhodes
> Sent: Sunday, January 29, 2017 5:53 PM
> To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
> Subject: [Elecraft] KX3 internal battery problem
>
>
>
> My KX3 has suddenly decided that it doesn't want to turn on on battery
> power. It has been pretty much just sitting in a bag for the last few
> months but when I tried to turn it on it wouldn't, so I thought that maybe
> the batteries needed charging so I plugged it in, turned it on, went to
> menu to turn on charger and got "BAT ERR" message when I did. Set display
> for battery voltage and it says 10.4 volts. Anybody seen this before?
>
> --
> Jim K0XU
> j...@rhodesend.net

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Re: [Elecraft] KX3 internal battery problem

[Mark Petiford via Elecraft]

Re:  << My KX3 has suddenly decided that it doesn't want to turn on on battery 
power...so I plugged it in, turned it on, went to menu to turn on charger and 
got "BAT ERR" message >>

I had a similar problem several years ago, and the problem was that the battery 
connector that connects the cell holder to the circuit board wasn't fully 
inserted into the pins on the circuit board.  Open the KX3 up and make sure the 
connector is fully mated.

That would make some sense.  The KXBC3 Charger Installation and Operating 
instructions say the BAT ERR is due to, "Battery missing or battery voltage out 
of range due to a fully charged pack or a defective or missing cell."  An 
intermittent connection would probably fit that description.

Mark,
KE6BB
 

  


   
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Re: [Elecraft] KX3 ATU not inst

[Mark Petiford]

Check the PA Mode in the menu and be sure it is set to OFF if you don't have a 
KXPA100 attached.

Mark
KE6BB

From: Tim Tuckerae...@worldwidedx.com
Sent: ‎Thu, ‎Apr‎ ‎17‎, ‎2014 at ‎05‎:‎26‎ ‎PM
To: Elecraft Reflector elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: [Elecraft] KX3 ATU not inst

All of the sudden my KX3's ATU cannot be seen by the radio and I can't
figure out why.
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Re: [Elecraft] Eneloop 2500 mah batteries

[Mark Petiford]

Lane,Walter hit the nail on the head.  The KXBC3 will not overcharge your 
cells, and its thermal sensors will shut down the charge cycle if the cells 
reach their temperature limit, 0 to 40 deg. C as Walter mentioned.  Charging 
will resume once they cool down.  New cells shouldn't need much charging, but a 
4 or 8 hour top-off won't hurt them.  A 16 hr. charge won't hurt them either, 
but you will waste a lot of energy in heat since any energy that cannot be 
absorbed for charging because the cells are fully charged is converted to heat. 
 It can get a little scary because the KX3 gets pretty warm as the cells reach 
full charge, but the KXBC3 is a solid conservative constant current design for 
2000 mah or larger NiMH cells.  You will eventually learn to trust it.  
MarkKE6BB
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Re: [Elecraft] [KX3] SWR Reading Instability Follow-up

[Mark Petiford]

This really looks like a data latency of a stale data issue, as I discussed in 
an earlier posting and Don expanded on in his post.  To me, this is a minor 
curiosity, but I am sure that there will be a few who will say their radio is 
worthless because of it.    MarkKE6BB
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Re: [Elecraft] [KX3] SWR Reading Instability Follow-up

[Mark Petiford]

Re:  Can you redo the 1-2-1-2 test with FM?

I just duplicated the original test with my KX3 (FW 1.94/1.28) and got the same 
results.  I repeated the 1-2-1-2 voice test and the SWR remained stable as it 
did in AM as well. 

It looks almost like the KX3 is calculating the SWR using a good current value 
for forward power (dropping off to zero as the voice trails off between 
syllables or words) but using a stale value (not updated often enough) for 
reflected power.  When the forward power goes to zero or near zero as it does 
on SSB between syllables, it doesn't take much reflected power to give you the 
appearance of high SWR if you are using a stale reflected power value.  In AM 
and FM, the carries remains relatively high stabilizing the calculation by 
never letting forward power drop to, or near, zero between voice syllables.  

Of course, it could also be related to the time constants in the hardware, but 
now I am speculating too much...and being a hardware guy, I love to blame 
things on the software guys!  ;-)

Mark
KE6BB
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Re: [Elecraft] [KX3] SWR Reading Instability Follow-up

[Mark Petiford]

The second sentence, first paragraph should have read:

  I repeated the 1-2-1-2 voice test ON FM and the SWR remained stable as it 
did in AM as well.

Mark
KE6BB
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Re: [Elecraft] Line Out Jack

[Mark Petiford]

All,

I was involved on this thread very early in its life because I had remembered 
having a transistor radio that had a mono earphone jack which wouldn't accept a 
modern 3.5mm plug.  At the time, I thought it was a 1/8 in. jack.  The radio 
was from Japan and it was made around 1959.  I suggested that I might be able 
to find one in my junk box.

Well, I went through my entire junk box, as well as a box containing earphones 
dating back to the 1930's, and found one plug (mono) that had a 2.5mm mono plug 
on it.  Everything else was 3.5mm. 

Based on all of my searching, I believe that the old transistor radio actually 
had a 2.5mm jack, and not a .125 inch jack as I thought.  I am also concluding 
that 3.5mm and 1/8in. plugs are the same thing since I have found no evidence 
that a .125 inch diameter plug has ever existed.  If anyone finds one, please 
let us know!

Mark
KE6BB

From: Josh Fidenj...@voodoolab.com
Sent: ‎Wed, ‎Apr‎ ‎9‎, ‎2014 at ‎02‎:‎47‎ ‎AM
To:  elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Line Out Jack

I'm curious about this. If anyone has reference to an actual 1/8 connector, 
please forward off list. I don't recall them ever being anything but 3.5mm. My 
recollection is that 3.5mm and 1/8 have always been used interchangeably. I 
believe (guess) the discrepancy is simply that the plug originated as 3.5mm and 
1/8 is the closest fractional inch (9/64 is unsatisfying).Checking 
specifications from one reputable manufacturer calls out sleeve diameter of 
3.5+/-0.05mm for the plug and 3.6mm for the entrance of the jack. As with so 
many things, I'm sure there's no difficulty finding poorly 
designed/manufactured Asian parts that deviate.There's no such issue with 1/4 
phone connectors. They are called out either as 6.35mm or 6.3mm, which is quite 
accurate because they originated as the fractional inch dimension.73,Josh 
W6XUOn 4/7/2014 7:11 PM, Don Wilhelm wrote: 3.5mm and 1/8 inch are now the 
same thing - one place calls them 3.5mm  while others use the 1/8
 inch designation for the same thing. Yes, it was not always so, but that was 
well before stereo plugs and  jacks came into existence. The big issue now is 
manufacturing tolerances that might mean some  jack and plug combinations are 
tight while other combinations may  appear to be sloppy. 1/4 inch plugs and 
jacks are more tolerant of sloppy tolerances i.e  +/- 0.01 mm compared to 
3.5mm is much greater than +/- 0.01 mm  compared to 7 mm (or is it 
8mm?).__Elecraft 
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Re: [Elecraft] Strange RFI question

[Mark Petiford]

Slava,

I agree with Fred that this is noise from one of the many noise generating 
devices in our houses today.  Square waves are generated by most every piece of 
electronics equipment in the house, and most consumer products make no attempt 
at containing them.  We really haven't defended our spectrum from the local 
noise sources very well.  

The spectrum is actually pretty quiet in your location compared to mine.  After 
about 10 years away from ham radio in the 80's, I came back and was surprised 
how noisy the spectrum had become.  The addition of panadapters visually 
confirms what we hear.  For relief, I occasionally carry one of my homebrew DC 
receivers away from cell phones, computers, etc.  just to listen to the beauty 
of RF signals on a clear cold night.  It is like the difference between fine 
wine, and Ripple!

Mark
KE6BB

From: Slava Baytalskiysla...@nullserv.com
Sent: ‎Wed, ‎Apr‎ ‎9‎, ‎2014 at ‎08‎:‎16‎ ‎AM
To: Elecraft List elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Strange RFI question

Hi everyone!Sorry about the video not showing up.Not sure why i didn't think of 
just uploading it to YouTube.So, here are two links:This one i took with my 
iPhone. The audio is very low though - http://youtu.be/DOZHHxjDhDIThis one is 
the original that i took with the screen recorder - 
http://youtu.be/Qhs1G9YS5k0Please take a peek and see if you could give me some 
ideas.As i've said earlier this is very pronounced on 20 meters. The signals in 
question are repeating every 61 kHz throughout the band. So its not just one 
signal. And they don't sound like you normal hum or buzz.Thanks in 
advance!Slava, W2RMSOn Apr 8, 2014, at 9:34 PM, Slava Baytalskiy 
sla...@nullserv.com wrote: Hello everyone! I'm not sure if this is the 
correct forum for this sort of a question but i figured i'd give it a shot. 
I've been going out of my mind with this strange signal pattern i've been 
seeing on my new panadapter connected to my new K3. I first saw it on 20 
meters. It
 seems to be the same signal pattern, spaced evenly, at 61 kHz intervals. 
Something tells me that it could very well be outside of my shack. I've got the 
street power lines 15 feet in front of my house, with a big transformer on top 
of a pole. I just took a video of the whole thing and you can also hear the 
sound of it, especially while i tune it up and down. Here's a link to the 
video file in my DropBox: 
https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/111549/rfi/strange_rfi.wmv Sorry for the 
format. This screen capture program only does Windows Media Video.  I've gone 
to a point where i've disconnected everything in the shack. Literally. And i 
could still hear it. My Yaesu 857D also hears it, with the same antenna hooked 
up to it, so that tells me its not my K3 or the panadapter (for that matter). 
I also tried hooking up another antenna (i have a home made fan dipole) and i 
can still hear it. So its not the antenna (right?).  I'm very open to any
 suggestions as to what to do? How to narrow it down?  Thanks a bunch in 
advance!  Slava, W2RMS  P.S. I almost wish i didn't have the panadapter, so 
i wouldn't even know its there... 
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Re: [Elecraft] Rotten Signals

[Mark Petiford]

Ok, great idea, guys.  So, Elecraft, will the recently announced PX3 have 
provisions to add this capability like the P3 does?If so, I want one!

It is less than a week old and we already want more!!! ;-)    

Mark
KE6BB

From: Gary Gregoryvk1zzg...@gmail.com
Sent: ‎Wed, ‎Apr‎ ‎9‎, ‎2014 at ‎04‎:‎53‎ ‎PM
To: Gary Ferdinand alapa...@taconic.net
CC: elecraft elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Rotten Signals

Gary,The Sensor: input on the rear of th P3 is there for 
thatpurposehowever, the device has not been announced by Elecraft to 
datedespite repeated requests.I too really do want to be able to monitor my 
TX signal, one of thedisadvantages I have is that I operate Portable from my 
Motorhome 24/7and as you can imagine, this constant changing of the station 
setup leadsto mistakes or oopsies when setting up..:-)I also beg Elecraft to 
listen to our pleas73GaryOn 10 April 2014 09:19, Gary Ferdinand 
alapa...@taconic.net wrote: Dear Elecraft, We are in critical need of a 
device that will allow us to monitor our *actual* transmitted signal.  There 
are so many rotten signals out there it's pathetic.   Since it would appear 
the offshore manufacturers are clueless as to the need for clean signals, 
perhaps pressure can be put upon them to clean up their acts by having 
increasing numbers of transmit signal monitors in the field.  In any case
 I'd like to know that my signal is clean.  The CWops contest last week was 
the last straw for rotten signals for me. For some time I've been using my 
P3 to analyze others' signals.  If I had a device that is similar in 
capability to the P3 to monitor my transmitted signal that might suffice.  
Here I'm thinking CW (spurs, clicks, synth noise...), but something that 
assists the op with transmitted SSB signals would also be of use. Likewise 
RTTY, etc.   I don't operate enough phone/RTTY  right now to judge whether the 
P3 is sufficient to analyze one's transmitted SSB signal. How about it, 
Elecraft?  It seems the P3 has much of the needed function.  You'd need some 
sort of coupler that was fast enough to capture high speed signals, while not 
passing a harmful amount of signal to the P3T  (transmission monitor P3).  
Of course the P3T should easily handle 1500 W, not merely 500 W, to appeal to 
a broader market. Thanks for
 listening (I hope). 73, Gary W2CS 
__ Elecraft 
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http://www.qsl.net/donate.html Message delivered to vk1zzg...@gmail.com-- 
*Gary - VK1ZZ, K3NHLSkype: 
Gary.VK1ZZhttp://www.qsl.net/vk1zzhttp://www.qsl.net/vk1zzMotorhome 
Portable**Grumpy's House**Elecraft 
K3KPA500FTKAT500FT*__Elecraft
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Re: [Elecraft] KX3 OSC Temp And Freq Drift Relationship?

[Mark Petiford]

RE:  The extended temp compensation is mostly about transmit frequency 
stability. It might make some difference in decoding PSK31 as the rig cools 
down, but I would expect that to be a smaller effect.

To elaborate a bit more on wunder's comment, it is about frequency stability as 
related to temperature changes.  The reason it appears to affect transmit more 
than receive is because the KX3 power amplifier transistors generate lots of 
heat during transmit, heating up the SI570 oscillator.  The SI570 also 
generates heat, but generates the same amount of heat during transmit and 
receive (it doesn't know the difference), so it tends to add to the heat during 
transmit, and slow the cool-down during receive.  The relatively poor heat 
rejection capability of the KX3's enclosure (designed for TFR, not heat 
rejection) figures into that mix as well.  So, fast frequency drift during 
transmit, slower drift during receive.

I've used SI570's for a number of years on my SDR projects, but have always had 
the luxury of being able to isolate them from the radio's final amplifier 
transistors, and any other heat source.  They have therefore been very 
frequency stable once their temperature levels off following power-up.  The 
tight packaging of the KX3 doesn't allow that.  From the reports so far, it 
looks like Elecraft's look-up table approach is pretty effective at 
compensating.

Mark
KE6BB
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Re: [Elecraft] Digimodes what am I missing?

[Mark Petiford]

I accidentally fat fingered this directly to wunder instead of to the list, 
so here it is again...I hope:

I am going to put a pitch in here for some of the not so new digimodes as a 
way to keep the hobby interesting.  RTTY has certainly been around a lot longer 
than 50 years...even longer than ME...and has a beautiful sound.  I find a bit 
more conversation there, but a lot more macros being used there than 40 years 
ago.  All we had back then was a CQ tape, a brag tape, etc.  It kept you busier 
than a one-armed paper hanger because you were literally hanging the paper 
tapes on the wall with little pieces of masking tape on the end and loading the 
one you wanted to use next into the tape reader.Another old fun mode that has 
been around longer than 50 years is Helschreiber, and all of its incarnations.  
It was one of the very first attempts to send text via radio. Technically it is 
a facsimile mode (thank you spell checker), with a scanner on one end sending a 
small picture of each text character and one the other end reproducing it.  It 
has a
 fascinating history.  I find a lot more conversation among  operators using 
that mode, probably because even the slowest of typists can keep up with it, 
but the length of a conversation tends to be limited by propagation changes.  
It does require some (not a lot) operator skill to tune in and to keep it tuned 
in, similar to the days before waterfalls when you tuned RTTY by ear or using a 
scope.  It certainly isn't the ultimate mode (which is why it is so obscure), 
but it is great fun to use it occasionally instead of PSK.Operating some of the 
older modes is a bit like flying old airplanes.  They generally require more 
airman skill due to tailwheels, tailskids, adverse yaw, poorer instrumentation, 
etc., but are great fun once you master them.  Same with CW and some of the 
other old modes.  While my CW skill have deteriorated in part due to age 
issues, it is beautiful to watch a couple of skilled CW operators running QSK 
working together, and I am not
 talking about code speed.  It is even more fun to be a part of it.  It is a 
skill that I don't hear much anymore.  The standard CW exchanges don't really 
do the mode justice compared to a good QSK conversation between skilled 
operators.Tired of the same old PSK conversations?  Try one of the old time 
modes, or throw away the waterfall.  Do something different.  It will make you 
a better operator and you will learn something about the history of 
radio.73,Mark,
KE6BB
or as it was sent on a Model 19 
TTY:-ltrs-ltrs-KE-nbrs-6-ltrs-ltrs-BB-CR-CR-LF-LF
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Re: [Elecraft] Powerpole police here....

[Mark Petiford]

Re:  Are they REALLY   0.137795 inches or is 3.5mm just a rounded off way to 
describe the same physical part using two 
different measurement standards?

Charlie,

Not sure you are going to get a real definitive answer, but I now believe the 
1/8 designation is just a rounded off way to describe a 3.5mm connector.  I 
didn't believe that before this thread got going.

I dug out all the old connectors I could find from the very bottom of my junk 
box and measured them.  All of them measured 3.5mm (0.138) as best I could 
read on my calipers.  None were below 0.137.  I thought for sure I would find 
some that were 1/8 (0.125) dia., because I remember buying some of them from 
the local exploded television store that were marked as 1/8 phone plugs.  I 
think those were all mono, not stereo.  In those days, I didn't have a set of 
calipers or a micrometer to check them, so I just assumed they were 0.125 dia. 
 Looks like that assumption was wrong.

Whoever wrote the Wikipedia entry on 3.5mm Plug agrees that 1/8 is just an 
approximate description used in some countries, and that they actually measure 
3.5mm (0.138) diameter, which agrees with my junk box.  I also did a search of 
Mouser looking for 1/8 Plugs, and all I came up with was 3.5mm plugs.

My memory still recalls seeing connectors that wouldn't quite fit together 
correctly, but I don't have any that I can find now...and I have some pretty 
old junk.  Just ask my wife!  ;-)
    
73
Mark
KE6BB

From: Charlie T, K3ICHpin...@erols.com
Sent: ‎Sat, ‎Mar‎ ‎15‎, ‎2014 at ‎09‎:‎35‎ ‎PM
To:  elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Powerpole police here

That doesn't answer my question. Are they REALLY   0.137795 inches or is 
3.5mm just a rounded off way to describe the same physical part using two 
different measurement standards?

73, Charlie k3ICH


l
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Re: [Elecraft] Battery voltage on KX3 seems high...

[Mark Petiford]

Andrew,Phil hit the nail on the head.  When you have the power supply attached 
(or an external battery with a voltage greater than the internal battery 
voltage), the KX3 Battery Voltage displays the UNLOADED voltage of the internal 
NiMH cells.  When you remove that external power, the internal battery powers 
the KX3, so the KX3 Battery Voltage displays the LOADED voltage of the internal 
NiMH cells.  The difference between the loaded and unloaded voltage is 
primarily due to the internal resistance of the NiMH cells.  The LOADED voltage 
reading will vary depending on what the load current is.  If you see 10.2V 
during receive, and you key the rig with few watts of output, you will see that 
loaded voltage drop a bit farther due to the added current draw.  That is the 
effect that internal battery (cell) resistance has.The internal resistance of 
the cells has a good effect, too.  It is partially responsible for the self 
leveling effect (the tendency for
 a group of cells in series to end up at the same voltage after charging) that 
is inherent in NiMH cells.The KXBC3 is strictly a constant current charger.  
You turn it on for a length of time, and it tries to keep the current at a 
constant of about 10% the capacity of the cells...about 200ma in the case of 
the KXBC3.  I don't believe there is a trickle charger as a design feature in 
the KXBC3; however, there appears to be a very small reverse current leakage 
that may tend to reduce the effects of the self discharge properties of the 
cells.  It is probably small (a few microamps?) in relation to that, but my LSD 
(Low Self Discharge) Eneloop 2000's seem to stay charged longer if I keep the 
radio hooked up to a 13.8v supply.  I haven't quantified this yet. The self 
discharge rate is so low with these cells that it is difficult to tell.  As Don 
pointed out, it may depend on the source voltage, so there is another variable 
thrown in.MarkKE6BB

Hope this e-mail works out.  I did it on a Yahoo Win 8 mail app that sometimes 
formats everything to be incompatible with the Elecraft list.
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Re: [Elecraft] Panadaptor for the KX3

[Mark Petiford]

Rocky has been my go to application for my homebrew SDR uses for many years.  
While it doesn't have all the bells and whistles of other applications, it has 
the best frequency domain display available, it is rock solid, and for homebrew 
use, it can control an si570 through the I2C bus with the addition of a couple 
of chips.  I use it with my KX3 to monitor the output of newly built SDR 
transmitters, as well as rebuilt boat anchor transmitters until I am sure they 
are working properly.  For the $0 price, I have not found an application that 
can give me as much information about the signal quality as Rocky.

I am not sure which article in QST you are talking about.  Be careful, it is 
the April issue, and QST editors are known for their spoofs!

Mark
KE6BB

From: Pete Smith N4ZRn...@contesting.com
Sent: ‎Thu, ‎Mar‎ ‎13‎, ‎2014 at ‎03‎:‎45‎ ‎AM
To: Elecraft List elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: [Elecraft] Panadaptor for the KX3

Has anyone tried using Rocky (VE3NEA, freeware) with the I/Q output from 
a KX3, for a $0 panadaptor?  I'm stimulated to ask this by the 
panadaptor article in the current QST, which strikes me as a ludicrous 
example of doing things the hard way.

-- 
73, Pete N4ZR
Check out the Reverse Beacon Network at
http://reversebeacon.net,
blog at reversebeacon.blogspot.com.
For spots, please go to your favorite
ARC V6 or VE7CC DX cluster node.

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Re: [Elecraft] O.T. New On[line Ham Radio show from UK...

[Mark Petiford]

Thanks, Dave!  Pretty good show.  I am looking forward to their March issue.

I, too, have no affiliation, financial interest, etc., etc...

Mark
KE6BB

From: Dave G.d3j...@gmail.com
Sent: ‎Sun, ‎Feb‎ ‎23‎, ‎2014 at ‎7‎:‎55‎ ‎PM
To: elecraft_mailman.qth.net elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: [Elecraft] O.T. New On[line Ham Radio show from UK...

FYI...
http://www.txfilms.co.uk/txfactor/

No affiliation, financial interest, etc., etc.

Dave G.    KK7SS
Richland, WA.
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Re: [Elecraft] Percentage of KX3 owners who bought a KXPA100

[Mark Petiford]

Re:  I'm sure a number of people are in the same boat as me.Yep, Steve, we 
are on the same cruise, and our boat is floating on the water in my kitchen!  
Just found out today that I may have a water leak in the kitchen under the 
slab.  While they have the slab dug up the wife will be thinking new cabinets, 
countertops, somewhat different layout, etc., etc., etc.  By the time we get 
all of this done, I probably could have bought 10 KXPA100's...maybe 20!I am 
walking around mumbling a very Eeyore-like, Oh me, oh my!MarkKE6BB

From: Stephen Selbergke6...@gmail.com
Sent: ‎Wed, ‎Feb‎ ‎12‎, ‎2014 at ‎8‎:‎25‎ ‎PM
To: Jim Lowman jmlow...@sbcglobal.net; elecraft@mailman.qth.net 
elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Percentage of KX3 owners who bought a KXPA100

Greetings,I'm sure a number of people are in the same boat as me. I plan on 
gettingone but am holding off for now for a few reasons. 1) finances 2) 
lettingthe bulk of the bugs get worked out 3) waiting to hear feedback from 
others4) did I mention finances..
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Re: [Elecraft] KXPD3 Gold-plated contacts ?

[Mark Petiford]

Tried to send the message below, but apparently my mail provider didn't 
actually send it.  See the post below if you are interested in accomplishing 
KXPD3 mod to correct intermittent operation.

Mark
KE6BB

From: Mark Petifordrv6am...@yahoo.com
Sent: ‎Sun, ‎Feb‎ ‎9‎, ‎2014 at ‎1‎:‎33‎ ‎PM
To: Heinz Baertschi heinz.baerts...@bluewin.ch;  elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] KXPD3 Gold-plated contacts ?

Re:  Heinz Baertschi wrote ... BTW, some pictures of the mod done could be 
made available for publication on the net. ...There is a real nice set of 
photos showing the mod in the Yahoo Group (FilesKXPD3 Mod.), if you are a 
member of that group.  If not, I have attempted to share them on 
Flickr:http://www.flickr.com/photos/22169464@N03/sets/72157640740273315/Be sure 
to click on the comments balloon for each photo for a short description.This is 
the simplest solution I have seen.  I hope Flickr lets you see them.   I am not 
very Flickr fluent. MarkKE6BB
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Re: [Elecraft] KXPD3 Gold-plated contacts ?

[Mark Petiford]

OK, I give up.  Yahoo keeps making its mail clients fancier, but less useful.  
It seems to have a mind of its own.  Here is the link that I was trying to send:

    http://www.flickr.com/photos/22169464@N03/sets/72157640740273315/

Mark
KE6BB

From: Mark Petifordrv6am...@yahoo.com
Sent: ‎Sun, ‎Feb‎ ‎9‎, ‎2014 at ‎6‎:‎27‎ ‎PM
To:  elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] KXPD3 Gold-plated contacts ?

Tried to send the message below, but apparently my mail provider didn't 
actually send it.  See the post below if you are interested in accomplishing 
KXPD3 mod to correct intermittent operation.MarkKE6BBFrom: Mark 
Petifordrv6am...@yahoo.comSent: ‎Sun, ‎Feb‎ ‎9‎, ‎2014 at ‎1‎:‎33‎ ‎PMTo: 
Heinz Baertschi heinz.baerts...@bluewin.ch;  
elecraft@mailman.qth.netSubject: Re: [Elecraft] KXPD3 Gold-plated contacts 
?Re:  Heinz Baertschi wrote ... BTW, some pictures of the mod done could be 
made available for publication on the net. ...There is a real nice set of 
photos showing the mod in the Yahoo Group (FilesKXPD3 Mod.), if you are a 
member of that group.  If not, I have attempted to share them on 
Flickr:http://www.flickr.com/photos/22169464@N03/sets/72157640740273315/Be sure 
to click on the comments balloon for each photo for a short description.This is 
the simplest solution I have seen.  I hope Flickr lets you see them. 
  I am not very Flickr fluent. 
MarkKE6BB__Elecraft 
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Re: [Elecraft] KXPD3 Gold-plated contacts ?

[Mark Petiford]

RE:  Has anyone tried to galvanically gold-plate the KXPD3 contact screws and
posts?

Heinz,

In an attempt to solve the missing dit problem?

Mark
KE6BB
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Re: [Elecraft] K3 vs KX3

[Mark Petiford]

Gary,

The missions of the two radios are quite different.  I can toss the KX3 into my 
daypack with some wire for a simple antenna, and I am off to the park or a 
nearby wilderness area for a nice day in the field.  That is a one box solution 
(transceiver, batteries, antenna tuner, etc.) that is about the size of a 
brick, but much lighter.  That is what it is designed to do.  That is why I 
bought one.  I had considered a K3 for a long time, but just couldn't see 
putting that much money into a radio that would sit on a desk most of the time. 
 From the moment I saw the first announcement for the KX3, I knew it was the 
radio for me.  The design team at Elecraft worked hard to get a high 
performance transceiver into a trail friendly package, and what a nice package 
it is.

At home or in my car, I can hook it up to the KXPA100 and have a nice 100w 
station in two small boxes including antenna tuner.Same basic radio, same 
controls.  That I why I will be buying a KXPA100.  

Re: ...and so little heard now about the 
K3 on the reflector?

That is not a bad reflection on the K3, but as a different poster said, 
represents its more mature stage of development.  You don't hear as much about 
the K2 now, and even less about the K1 and KX1 for the same reason.  So enjoy 
your K3.  It will not be replaced by the KX3, nor will the K3 replace the KX3.

This old dinosaur is very thankful that he can still get out and walk, and the 
KX3 is the perfect fit.  When I can no longer walk, you will see me headed down 
the sidewalk on my hover round scooter with my KX3 attached and my homebrew 
magnetic loop antenna sticking up, headed for the nearest park.  What a sight!  
;-)

Mark
KE6BB
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Re: [Elecraft] [KX3} Unable to engage screw into KXFL3

[Mark Petiford]

Re:  I received my filter board for my KX3, but the ½”, 13mm screw will not
engage the screw hole in the filter board. 

Jamie,

As the instructions say, the screw must pass into the hole in the KXFL3 
module.  Mine just barely passes INTO the hole and does not project THROUGH 
the hole.  Its threads do not engage the surface of the hole at all since the 
hole diameter is larger than the screw diameter.  It works fine for keeping the 
module from falling out during transport.   
    
Hope that helps.

Mark
KE6BB
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Re: [Elecraft] [KX3} Unable to engage screw into KXFL3

[Mark Petiford]

Re:  which is exactly the
same as the screw that was already there, 
  
Jamie,
   
I forgot something.  Be sure to measure the length of the screw.  The screw 
that was there should have been 1/4 inch long.  The new one should be 1/2 inch 
(or very close to that).  They should be measured from the top of the flat head 
to the end of the threaded end.  I found a couple of screws (not that one) in 
my kit that were the next smaller length.  The screw packer must have had a bad 
day and put the wrong length in.  Elecraft was quick to send new ones that were 
the correct length.

Mark
KE6BB
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Re: [Elecraft] KX3 digital modes problem

[Mark Petiford]

Re:  Using fully charged brand new NiMH batteries the radio simply turns 
itself off after I turn it
on.

Several possibilities here.  First be sure the battery connector is fully 
engaging the pins on the circuit board (reference Figure 8 of the KXBC3 
Installation and Operation Instructions).  Mine wasn't fully engaged and would 
occasionally become intermittent.

Second, be sure the cells are good.  Take them out and measure their individual 
voltages.  They should be within about 0.1v of each other; also, any cells that 
are below 1.0v should be replaced.  While a faulty cell may be flagged by the 
KXBC3 charger during charging, it is possible that one of them discharges very 
quickly after charging is complete.  

Are your cells relatively new and all of the same type?  I was given an old set 
of 2500mah Ray-O-Vac NiMH cells, and they would discharge while sitting in the 
KX3 (or on the shelf for that matter) over a few days time causing the same 
symptoms you are seeing.  Any of the modern Low Self Discharge NiMH cells 
should not exhibit this behavior, and will remain charged for a long period of 
time

Mark
KE6BB

From: Jim Fitzpatrickjhfit...@wisc.edu
Sent: ‎Tue, ‎Dec‎ ‎31‎, ‎2013 at ‎1‎:‎01‎ ‎PM
To:  Elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: [Elecraft] KX3 digital modes problem

I recently purchased a KX3. I have made several hundred CW QSOs with it in
the past several months.
 ... 
The other problem has been operating with batteries. Using fully charged
brand new NiMH batteries the radio simply turns itself off after I turn it
on. I have the BAT MIN set at 8.4V. I measure the battery charge at about
11V. This should be enough to keep it running, but it doesn't even after I
have enabled all the power saving measures suggested in the manual. Loading
it up with 8 brand new Duracell AA batteries gives me 12.2V, and it seems to
work fine just as it should. AUTO OFF is set to infinite.

 

I'd appreciate any constructive ideas.

 

Thanks.

 

Jim

WI9WI

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Re: [Elecraft] Noise Cancelling Headphones

[Mark Petiford]

Re:  Is there such a thing as a noise cancelling black box you can plug in 
aheadset such as the CM-500 and get good noise canceling? No knobs. Just 
anON-OFF switch like the headsets have.

Well, sort of, Tony.  In the aviation world,  conversions kits have been 
marketed for popular (in aviation circles) headsets to convert them to noise 
canceling.  They weren't black box plug-in devices, but rather a kit of 
microphones and electronics mounted in each earpiece and required some 
disassembly of the existing earpieces.  I believe they were made for David 
Clark and Flightcom headsets, and maybe a few others.  The result was a 
significant improvement over the original passive headsets, but not as good as 
a good pair of noise canceling headsets.  I don't know if they are still 
available.  I suspect the low end of the noise canceling headset market has 
displaced them.    

Mark
KE6BB


From: N2TK, Tonytony@verizon.net
Sent: ‎Thu, ‎Dec‎ ‎26‎, ‎2013 at ‎5‎:‎20‎ ‎AM
To:  Elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Noise Cancelling Headphones

Is there such a thing as a noise cancelling black box you can plug in aheadset 
such as the CM-500 and get good noise canceling? No knobs. Just anON-OFF switch 
like the headsets have.And thinking of the CM-500. Has anyone found a set of 
material covers thatfit their ear covers? I would think they would be more 
comfortable than theplastic against your head. And they would look better than 
the pieces ofpaper towels I presently use when wearing the headphones for 
extendedperiods. :-)73,N2TK, Tony-Original Message-From: 
elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net[mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On 
Behalf Of Gary SmithSent: Thursday, December 26, 2013 2:58 AMTo: 
elecr...@mailman.qth.netSubject: Re: [Elecraft] Noise Cancelling HeadphonesI 
use the Bose QC-15 as about all I do is CW and the audio on these iswonderful. 
The noise cancelling though is almost 100% perfect; my old Alphawith its blower 
is 18 from my head and with the QC-15 on I can't but just
 barely tell the amp is on or off. I was thinking about getting a headset with 
a mic  though Bose does makethe A20 for pilots, at $1100 for what is 
essentially the QC-15 with a boommic, I'll pass. They do make a A100T snap on 
mic for theQC15 but they are $250 for just the mic. I was referred by quite a 
fewpeople here to check out the Yamaha CM500 for a fine mic, quick match to 
theK3 and comfortable headsets  at $59. I'm so happy with the Bose QC15 that 
I'm going to keep using these and amgoing to need to figure out another way to 
get a mic into theK3 in a way that will be convenient for contesting should I 
ever decide todo a phone contest. I have an Electrovoice RE-10 which would 
probably benice  needs no power  maybe I can make a clamp-on boom that I can 
remove from the desk once the contest is over. I also have several condenser 
mics but they are for recording and would be excessand just problematic for ham 
use.Anyone have any suggestion of a
 removable boom mic other than the A100T thatwill attach to the QC-15 and make 
it simple to use and then remove when thecontest is over? I don't want to use 
velcro.Thanks  73,GaryKA1J---This email is free from viruses and malware 
because avast! Antivirusprotection is 
active.http://www.avast.com__Elecraft
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Re: [Elecraft] RTTY in days of old

[Mark Petiford]

Any discussion of early RTTY brings back warm memories.  I fell in love with 
RTTY when I first heard the diddle sounds in the headphones of my Ocean Hopper 
in the late 50's.  Didn't really get a chance to work it until I was out of 
college in the 70's when I bought a Model 19 TTY with paper tape punch and 
reader from a friend.  The whole thing (TTY, punch, reader, and current loop 
power supply)  must have weighed well over 300 lbs. I ran it with an Eldico 
R-104/T-102 for HF Rx/Tx, and eventually on VHF using a comparatively tiny 
Wilson HT.  I bought a used pair of small transistor circuit boards that 
converted the audio characters (diddle) to current loop characters (90ma 
current loop???) for RX and TX.  The boards had burned at one point, were 
repaired by an owner before me, and again by me when some of the solder joints 
failed. Sold it all in 1984 when I knew my job would be moving me around and I 
just couldn't lug all that stuff with me;
 besides, computers had taken off and they could easily replace most of that 
stuff.  Today, a KX3/KXPA100/Acer W3 gives me the same capabilities, weighs 
under 5 lbs. (not 300 lbs.) and fits in the space taken up by the paper tape 
punch alone! Now I miss the sounds of the motor in the TTY starting up as you 
approach a signal, the ker-crunch of the TTY keys as the signal is tuned in 
properly, the slight whisp of oil in the air, the ascii art (or more correctly, 
Baudot art) and more.  I had a CQ tape, a CQ Reply tape, a Brag tape, etc. 
taped to the front of the Model 19 which acted as primitive Macros.  You would 
load each tape into the reader as the QSO progressed.  Sadly, computers didn't 
replace that character.  Maybe the next generation will talk about the 
character that waterfalls have! Ltrs Ltrs CR CR LF FL

    
Mark
KE6BB

From: Bill W2BLCw2...@nycap.rr.com
Sent: ‎Mon, ‎Dec‎ ‎16‎, ‎2013 at ‎3‎:‎25‎ ‎AM
To:  elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] RTTY in days of old

Model 14 tape printer was the first. Demod and scope were 19 rack mounted 
along with a power supply that weighed in at over 40 lbs. by itself. Later Mode 
15 and eventually Mod 28 (complete console). The latter was last seen at the 
Fairfax County landfill in Virginia over 23 years ago. I couldn't even give it 
away. Artwork was done with various characters being repeated into patterns and 
brag tapes hung on the wall for reuse (some were even on special indestructible 
5-level tape).The computer stuff may work well, but it is cold and devoid of 
personality - about the same as everything else that is computer controlled. 
Today's QSOs are done with single key strokes (and the chance of finding a 
good rag chew is very rare). It is all about a fast contact and computer 
generated logbook entries.Bill W2BLC 
K-Line__Elecraft 
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Re: [Elecraft] RTTY in days of old

[Mark Petiford]

Fred,

I guess my memory of the current loops as 90 ma instead of 60 ma is a little 
like my memory of how great it was...both are inflated by the years! 
    
Regards,
Mark
KE6BB

From: Fred Jensenk6...@foothill.net
Sent: ‎Mon, ‎Dec‎ ‎16‎, ‎2013 at ‎12‎:‎10‎ ‎PM
To:  elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] RTTY in days of old

On 12/16/2013 8:26 AM, Mark Petiford wrote: I bought a used pair of small 
transistor circuit boards that converted the audio characters (diddle) to 
current loop characters (90ma current loop???) for RX and TX.60mA loops.  
Later, 20mA polar loops became popular, but I don't remember why.  Wonder what 
it would be like to work a RTTY contest with a real teletype?  Perhaps 
similar to:Having inherited an SX-28, I decided to work an NAQP CW retro.  I 
found my last 40m ARC-5 and Heath power supply in the basement and fired up 
with a J-38.  I lasted 2 hours before I overdosing on nostalgia.  Unlike wine, 
36 years in the basement did not mellow the ARC-5's key clicks.  I only got 
shocked from the key a couple of times.The only reason the good old days are 
remembered as good is because we had no idea what was coming. :-))73,Fred 
K6DGW- Northern California Contest Club- CU in the 2014 Cal QSO Party 4-5 Oct 
2014-
 
www.cqp.org__Elecraft
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Re: [Elecraft] [KX3] Hi Curr Warning

[Mark Petiford]

Gary,

The 8 watts that Ralf mentions is correct, but according to the KX3 
specifications (Owner's Manual rev. B4, Pg 51), that is possible when using a 
13.8 VDC power source.  Although I haven't used one for some time, I would be 
surprised if an SLA battery voltage is that high during transmit.  On 15m, It 
should be able to provide 10w PEP, but only with a 13.8v power supply.  Reduce 
the power setting a few watts, and you may eliminate the problem.

The KX3 works differently than the rigs most of us have used (other than 
Elecraft rigs).  When you set the power control to an output power, you are not 
adjusting the drive into the finals, but instead, you are telling the 
microprocessor that you want that much power out.  The microprocessor then 
controls drive to the finals to get that output power.  As the battery voltage 
drops, the KX3 microprocessor increases the current level (drive current) to 
get the requested power out.  It is a closed loop system.  Since P = E x I, the 
current must be increased as the voltage goes down to keep P constant at the 
value you requested.  At some point, the KX3 current monitoring notes that too 
much current is being drawn,  reduces the power output to protect itself, and 
displays the HI CURR message.

This has been discussed at great length in the Yahoo KX3 group.  Not sure if it 
has on the Elecraft list.  I believe someone there put a table together that 
shows possible out possible vs. power supply voltage.  If I can find it I will 
reproduce it here, with the proper credit, of course.

Mark
KE6BB

From: Ralf Wilhelmr...@super-deutschland.net
Sent: ‎Fri, ‎Dec‎ ‎13‎, ‎2013 at ‎2‎:‎24‎ ‎AM
To: Gary Hawkins g...@hawkins-zhu.com
CC: elecraft@mailman.qth.net elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] [KX3] Hi Curr Warning

Hi Gary,The maximum specified output power of the KX3 is 8 Watts on 12, 10 and 
6 meters (I think so).This would explain folding back on 10 but not on 15 
meters and certainly does not explain the display 
issue.GreetingsRalf,DL6OAPAm 13.12.2013 um 01:36 schrieb Gary Hawkins 
g...@hawkins-zhu.com: On my last two SOTA outings I've experienced HI CURR 
warning with the KX3.  I've read this is associated with low battery voltage or 
low antenna impedance.  I think at one time there was also a software bug 
associated with specific settings that was fixed with a firmware release.  My 
setup consists of KX3, with ATU, 1/4 wavelength vertical cut for 20m.  SLA 
battery, well charged, operating above 12V under load. Antenna fed from 50ft 
co-axial cable, 30ft counterpoise connected to ground of KX3.  TX power set to 
10W  Both times I was operating on 15 or 10m.  ATU was tuned, showing 1:1.0 
match.  Does anybody have any idea what is causing the HI CURR
 warning?  After it happens, TX power reduces to 5W.  CMP and ALC bars 
display - no matter what I do I can't get these indicators to go in favor of 
SWR and RF.  Even if I power off the KX3 it still comes up in this display 
mode.  Finally, for no apparent reason, after five to ten minutes it then seems 
to switch back to SWR and RF display.  Looking forward to your input,  
Gary KK6GXD __ 
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Re: [Elecraft] [KX3] Hi Curr Warning

[Mark Petiford]

Gary,I didn't find the table, but I did find two relevant posts:
This was the problem reported by one poster:
During xmit at modest power 8 - 9 watts, I occasionally see a msg flash on 
the display that shows hi curr.  It seems that when that happens, the xmit 
power gets reset to 5.0 watts.  I have the battery charger option installed 
and NiMH batteries in the unit, but have been running from an external 12v 
gel cell.Sounds quite similar to your experience.  There was a response from 
Myron, WV0H, who has done considerable testing on his KX3:8-9V will allow 
you 3W on any band.9-11V will allow you 5W on any band.11-13V will allow 
you 10W on 160-15m, 8W on 12-6m, and HI CURR if you exceed 2.5A.13-15V will 
allow you 12W on 160-15m and HI CURR if you exceed 3.0A, or if on 12-6m HI 
CURR
 if you exceed 2.5A. If the HI CURR warning shows up, expect to see the power 
setting throttled back.I have tested some of these data points and my results 
are very similar to Myron's.  In addition, I took a look at some SLA 
datasheets, and would be very surprised if the voltage at the KX3 during 
transmit stays above 11v for long.  The discharge curve (NOT the same thing as 
the resting curve, or the charge curve) for SLA's is pretty steep.  Combine 
that with the relatively high internal resistance of the cells, cable/connector 
drop, and the KX3's reverse polarity protection, and the voltage at the KX3's 
Power Amplifier tends to get knocked down a lot.  I ran successfully ran SLA's 
for a while after receiving my KX3, but only at 5w and below.I suspect your 
decision to move to Lifepo/Lipo cells is the right answer if you want to stay 
in the 8-10 watt range.  There are lots of folks using them successfully for 
that reason.MarkKE6BBFrom: Gary
 hawkinsg...@hawkins-zhu.comSent: ‎Fri, ‎Dec‎ ‎13‎, ‎2013 at ‎9‎:‎04‎ ‎AMTo: 
Mark Petiford rv6am...@yahoo.com; elecraft@mailman.qth.net 
elecraft@mailman.qth.netSubject: Re: [Elecraft] [KX3] Hi Curr WarningHi Mark,I 
have revision C2 of the manual and, if I remember correctly, theimportant power 
voltage setting is 11V for full power.  Thatbeing said, if 13.8V is what is 
required this may explain what'sgoing on.  The SLA nominal voltage is marginal. 
 I'm going topurchase some Lifepo/Lipo batteries to both reduce weight in 
packand provide a slightly higher nominal voltage.  I'm not a member of the 
Yahoo KX3 user group - perhaps I shouldjoin.  If you do find the table you 
referenced I'd love to see it.Best regards,Gary
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Re: [Elecraft] [KX3] Hi Curr Warning

[Mark Petiford]

Sorry about the post with only one big paragraph.  Sometimes when I trim the 
post in Yahoo's Win8 e-mail client, it removes the formatting, too.

Mark
KE6BB

From: Mark Petifordrv6am...@yahoo.com
Sent: ‎Fri, ‎Dec‎ ‎13‎, ‎2013 at ‎10‎:‎39‎ ‎AM
To: Gary Hawkins g...@hawkins-zhu.com;  elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] [KX3] Hi Curr Warning


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Re: [Elecraft] KX3 roofing filters

[Mark Petiford]

Re:  ... I don't know how to tell if those filters are on or not?

If all you want to do is check to be sure they are being selected properly, 
skip down to the third paragraph below where it talks about FL1, FL2, and FL3.  
If you want to be sure they are turned on (enabled) in the menu, then keep 
reading:

Press and hold the DISP (MENU) button until the menu shows up in the main 
display.  Rotate the OFS/VFO B know B knob until RX XFIL show up in the 
display, then rotate the Main tuning knob to get the display to read NOR for 
normal operation (filter working) or NOT INST if the filter is not installed.  
Exit the menu by tapping the DISP button.  The filters may now be working, but 
it may be necessary to power the KX3 down and back on to get them to work.  The 
manual isn't real clear on that.

If you bought your KX3 at the same time you bought your filter module, the 
filters should be installed and the required opposite sideband suppression 
calibration should have already been done, even if your KX3 was a kit.  If not, 
you will need to do that calibration after enabling the filters.  That 
procedure is in the KXFL3 Installation and Calibration Instructions which is 
available on the Elecraft website.

Once you do that, as you narrow the bandpass down using PBT I/II knob, the XFIL 
display in the main display just above the PBT knob (NOT the menu display noted 
above) will move from FL1 to FL2 to FL3 as you narrow the BPT down.

BTW, I don't believe the filters make a great deal of difference in what you 
hear on the radio unless there is a very strong signal just outside your 
current passband.  Someone who has used the radio with, and without, the 
roofing filters can probably provide better experience than I can.  I have 
never operated without the filters installed.    

Mark
KE6BB

From: Gerry learygerrylear...@icloud.com
Sent: ‎Sat, ‎Dec‎ ‎7‎, ‎2013 at ‎4‎:‎34‎ ‎AM
To: Mark Petiford rv6am...@yahoo.com
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] KX3 roofing filters

I am a new KX3 user, but I don't know how to tell if those filters are on or 
not?Sent from my iPhone this time  On Dec 6, 2013, at 10:24 PM, Mark Petiford 
rv6am...@yahoo.com wrote:  Jeff,  Be sure the filter module is enabled in 
the menu and then power-down the KX3 and power it back on.  See Option 
ModuleEnables in your KX3 Owner’s manual.  Mark KE6BB          From: 
JEFFREY BLUMENFELDjeffreyblumenf...@mac.com Sent: ‎Fri, ‎Dec‎ ‎6‎, ‎2013 at 
‎4‎:‎43‎ ‎PM To:  elecraft@mailman.qth.net Subject: [Elecraft] KX3 roofing 
filters  I finally! got to power up my KX3 that I bought in February.  
Pathetic, really, but due to new job, lots of travel, etc.  I have the KXFL3 
roofing filters.  As I understand the manual, the roofing filters should kick 
in automatically as I narrow the PBT.  But mine don’t.  Sorry for what is 
likely a very elementary question.  Any guidance would be appreciated.  72, 
Jeff 
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Re: [Elecraft] KX3 roofing filters

[Mark Petiford]

Jeff,

Be sure the filter module is enabled in the menu and then power-down the KX3 
and power it back on.  See Option ModuleEnables in your KX3 Owner’s manual. 
Mark
KE6BB

    From: JEFFREY BLUMENFELDjeffreyblumenf...@mac.com
Sent: ‎Fri, ‎Dec‎ ‎6‎, ‎2013 at ‎4‎:‎43‎ ‎PM
To:  elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: [Elecraft] KX3 roofing filters

I finally! got to power up my KX3 that I bought in February.  Pathetic, really, 
but due to new job, lots of travel, etc.

I have the KXFL3 roofing filters.  As I understand the manual, the roofing 
filters should kick in automatically as I narrow the PBT.  But mine don’t.

Sorry for what is likely a very elementary question.  Any guidance would be 
appreciated.

72, Jeff  KB3DX
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Re: [Elecraft] Feature request - AF/RF knob default behavior

[Mark Petiford]

Mark (K7MJG...this is going to get confusing!),

Re:  Something easier to implement than what I suggested would be to simply 
*not*
change the AF/RF mode on a band change.  That way, there would be no
additional menu option to implement... 

Excellent idea!  Sometimes simpler isbetter.
   
I, too, tend to operate with the AF up and use RF gain to control the volume 
any time the band is noisy.  Makes sense in a radio that has an RF amplifier up 
front, but not sure it is as helpful with the KX3 (but I still do it).  I 
haven't really seen a need to control this on a per-band basis, though.  I like 
your idea since it follows the KISS principle, reduces code bloat, and lets 
me configure my radio with one button press.

The other Mark,
KE6BB
(Told you this was going to get confusing)!
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Re: [Elecraft] ANTENNA TUNER on KX3-PROBLEM

[Mark Petiford]

Did you exit the menus, turn the radio off and back on again after setting the 
ATU to AUTO?  See page 29 of the owner's manual (C2 revision):    
Set ATU MDto AUTO. Exit the menu and turn the KX3 off,then back on.

Mark
KE6BB

From: mistymaggiewa...@m-comm.com
Sent: ‎Sat, ‎Nov‎ ‎23‎, ‎2013 at ‎6‎:‎43‎ ‎AM
To:  elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: [Elecraft] ANTENNA TUNER on KX3-PROBLEM

Hi,

I received my KX3 yesterday and I love it--I downloaded the utility and
updated the firmware (see below)

07:52:13 Elecraft KX3 Utility Revision 1.13.4.29
07:52:13 OS Version 6.2 Build 9200 
07:52:14 Attempting to contact KX3 on port COM4 at 19200 bit/s
07:52:14 Attempting to contact KX3 on port COM4 at 9600 bit/s
07:52:14 Attempting to contact KX3 on port COM4 at 4800 bit/s
07:52:14 KX3 MCU revision 01.61. RS-232 speed 4800 bit/s

Right now the only thing I am having trouble with is the ATU. I have gone to
the config and made sure it is set to auto--It read at first not inst--I
double checked-(eye ball) to see if the unit was installed and it was.--When
I press auto tune it comes up as N/A---

I set the vfo to 40m hit the transmit and the swr is very high
I used an external ANT Tuner MFJ after I went in and by passed the
tuner--and tuned 40 m to a 1.2 then I tried transmit again on the EX3 and it
read 1.2

I know I am new to the unit so I believe I am doing something or have not
done something correctly--I failed to mention before I did anything I
checked all the config settings and they were all default according to the
manual--Any help out there ??



--
View this message in context: 
http://elecraft.365791.n2.nabble.com/ANTENNA-TUNER-on-KX3-PROBLEM-tp7581087.html
Sent from the Elecraft mailing list archive at Nabble.com.
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Re: [Elecraft] Spectrogram

[Mark Petiford]

I have successfully run Spectrogram version 5.1.7 on:  Win XP 32 bit, Win 7 64 
bit, Win 8 64 bit, Win 8.1 64 bit.  I just tried version 5.1.6 on Win 8.1 64 
bit and it worked fine as well.  I do not use Norton as my anti-virus software. 
   

Mark
KE6BB

From: Tom Fielddocw...@gmail.com
Sent: ‎Thu, ‎Nov‎ ‎7‎, ‎2013 at ‎10‎:‎17‎ ‎PM
To:  elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: [Elecraft] Spectrogram

Just out of curiosity, has anyone been able to run Spectrogram on Windows 7
or Windows 8. I haven't had any luck, and would like to reset my filters.

Tom F
KI6NRD
Elecraft K2 #7432
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Re: [Elecraft] 3D spectrogram ???

[Mark Petiford]

Don,

UltimaWaterfalls looked interesting, so I gave it a try, but all I can do with 
it is run the demos.  Maybe a VB programmer can get something out of it.  I 
couldn't find a way to input anything!  Based on my very short (1/2 hour or so) 
experience with it, I certainly wouldn't recommend it.

Oh, and there is no uninstall with it.  It appears I will have to go through 
the Install log and delete each of the files located in the several folders 
it put them in.  I wonder what it changed in the Registry?

Mark
KE6BB

From: Don Wilhelmw3...@embarqmail.com
Sent: ‎Fri, ‎Nov‎ ‎8‎, ‎2013 at ‎4‎:‎23‎ ‎PM
To: Kevin kev...@coho.net;  Elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] 3D spectrogram ???

Kevin,

Have you looked at UltimaWaterfall - 
http://www.ultimaserial.com/UltimaWaterfall.html?
It is freeware for non-commercial home use - shareware otherwise.

73,
Don W3FPR

On 11/8/2013 2:51 PM, Kevin wrote:
 Has anyone used a 3D spectrogram program other than Ozone's?  I am 
 digging for another but have been unable to locate a spectrogram 
 program which utilizes a 3D display.  Ozone, with the 3D spectrogram, 
 costs $999; a bit steep for an app I just want to test.  Their price 
 seems quite fair considering the amount of programming effort they 
 have put in to use both the CPU and the GPUs in a client's machine.  I 
 would like to see the code but they are not in the open souce 
 business.  They do offer a ten day fully functioning free trial, maybe 
 that will have to suffice.

 Kevin.  KD5ONS
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Re: [Elecraft] Rocky and Windows 8.1

[Mark Petiford]

I was sitting here thinking about how I hadn't tried any SDR applications since 
upgrading from Win 8 to 8.1, so I thought I'd give it a quick try.  The first 
thing I found that I needed to do was exactly what Joe suggested, Widows 
generally selects 1 channel as the default for any USB microphone device...  
I quickly corrected that, but still, no display in Rocky.  I quit Rocky, 
started up NaP3 and it displayed fine using several different settings.  No 
surprises with NaP3.  I decided to go back to Rocky to troubleshoot some more, 
but when I did, the display was working fine in Rocky without any changes!

Not sure what I changed while in NaP3.  It was almost like I had to get it 
working under NaP3 before Rocky could see the soundcard.  Soundcards can be 
frustrating at times.MarkKE6BBFrom: Kenneth A christiansenw...@i29.netSent: 
‎Thu, ‎Nov‎ ‎7‎, ‎2013 at ‎7‎:‎35‎ ‎AMTo: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net 
Elecraft@mailman.qth.netSubject: [Elecraft] Rocky and Windows 8.1Hi
 again from Ken W0CZLast summer I had Rocky working on my Toshiba laptop using 
a Griffin iMic as a stereo input for the I/Q on my KX3. I wanted to have a 
display similar to the P3 on my K3. It worked and I put it aside. This week end 
I entered the ARRL SweepSteaks and wanted to use Rocky again. I updated the 
computer to Windows 8.1 earlier this fall and now Rocky does not see the signal 
from the KX3. I thought the iMic had quit so I bought another one but now 
neither one works. The computer tells me the iMic is working properly in the 
SOUND-RECORDING-PROPERTIES screen. If I change Rocky to the SB X-FiGo and plug 
the KX3 in I see a display on Rocky but it is not proper because it is not in 
Stereo. I can get the iMic to work with the SDR program on my IPAD but the 
battery will not last long enough to do a contest. I need to ask the group if 
there is one or more solutions.1 Get the iMac to work with Windows 8.12 
Recommend another
 stereo adapter that will work with Windows 8.13 Come up with a way to charge 
the battery of the IPAD at the same time as I plug in the iMic.The KX3 did a 
wonderful job at 5 watts on a vertical from here in ND. I worked 122 contacts, 
54 sections and made 13176 points. I could have worked many more but I did not 
spend enough time in my chair. I thought the performance of the KX3 compared 
well with the K3 but I missed the P3 and felt the K3 may do slightly better but 
not a lot on strong close in QRM. It was sure a much better experience than I 
ever had with my IC746.Thank you for any help with my panadapter for the KX3 
project.73Ken W0CZSent from my 
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Re: [Elecraft] Kx3

[Mark Petiford]

IMHO, Sanyo Eneloop 2000 cells are the best value out there.  They work well 
and are Low Self Discharge (LSD) cells.  They are available at Costco, or 
on-line from various Amazon suppliers.  Sanyo really got the chemistry right, 
and I highly recommend them along with the KXBC3, especially if this is your 
first experience with NiMH cells.  IMHO, the higher capacity non-LSD cells 
simply aren't worth the trouble of trying to keep them charged.

Simply put, the Eneloops work good and last a long time.  I have beat them up 
in home use for several years now, and they are great so long as you don't run 
them below about 0.9v/cell.  The KX3 will make sure that doesn't happen.

Hope this helps.

Mark
KE6BB

From: Gerry learygerrylear...@icloud.com
Sent: ‎Mon, ‎Nov‎ ‎4‎, ‎2013 at ‎6‎:‎35‎ ‎PM
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: [Elecraft] Kx3



Hello everybody, I just bought a new KX3. Now I need to know more about the 
best batteries to use where to get them and some good small power supply 
recommendations? Thanks W the six I VF Sent from my iPhone this time 
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Re: [Elecraft] kx3 internal batteries question

[Mark Petiford]

Richard,The one place that the KX3 Owners Manual seems to be short on is an 
explanation of the various KXBC3 Charger error messages.  They are all in the 
KXBC3 Installation and Operation guide which most owners of factory built KX3's 
never look at.  There needs to be a note to look up battery charge related 
error messages in the KXBC3 manual, or merge all error messages into the KX3 
owners manual.  (Ron, AC7AC:  I am not a Tech Writer, so this is just a 
suggestion).The KXBC3 Installation and Operation guide says that the BAT ERR 
message is due to Battery missing or battery voltage out of range due to a 
fully charged pack or a defective or missing cell...I suspect your cells that 
drifted down to zero volts look like defective or missing cells to the KXBC3. 
 They would certainly cause the voltage to be out of range resulting in the 
KXBC3 issuing that error message.I don't have much experience with regular NiMH 
cells (as opposed to Low Self
 Discharge NiMH cells), but I did try a set of them (Rayovac) a month or so ago 
with poor results.  After a couple of weeks of no usage, I had to recharge 
them.  One had dropped well below 1v, and the others varied some, but were near 
1v.  In my case, the KXBC3 was able to recharge them, but I wondered what would 
happen if I had left them in the KX3 longer until the voltage dropped well 
below 1v per cell.  I think I know now, based on your experience.I am certain 
you will be much happier with the Eneloops.  There are a couple of other good 
brands NiMH cells out there, but you must be certain they are Low Self 
Discharge cells unless you are willing to recharge them often.MarkKE6BB    
From: Richard Gagnon rich...@gagnonconsulting.comSent: ‎Wed, ‎Oct‎ ‎16‎, ‎2013 
at ‎4‎:‎40‎ ‎PMTo: 
 elecraft@mailman.qth.netSubject: [Elecraft] kx3 internal batteries questionI 
have a question about the batteries in my KX3.  I purchased and installed 8 
Anasman 2850 NiMH batteries in the KX3 andhave used the radio successfully on 
these batteries for several months,including several recharge cycles with the 
KX3 internal charger. I lastused the KX3 several months ago, so the batteries 
were
 understandablydead when I went to try it out the other day...
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Re: [Elecraft] kx3 internal batteries question

[Mark Petiford]

All:

Sorry about the previous message.  Looks like all my CR/LF's got stripped out 
and a couple were added as well.  Even the part of the message I responded to 
was stripped.

Mark
KE6BB
From: Mark Petiford rv6am...@yahoo.com
Sent: ‎Wed, ‎Oct‎ ‎16‎, ‎2013 at ‎9‎:‎00‎ ‎PM
To: Richard Gagnon rich...@gagnonconsulting.com;  elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] kx3 internal batteries question

Richard,The one place that the KX3 Owners Manual seems to be short on is an 
explanation of the various KXBC3 Charger error messages.  They are all in the 
KXBC3 Installation and Operation guide which most owners of factory built KX3's 
never look at.  There needs to be a note to look up battery charge related 
error messages in the KXBC3 manual, or merge all error messages into the KX3 
owners manual.  (Ron, AC7AC:  I am not a Tech Writer, so this is just a 
suggestion).The KXBC3 Installation and Operation guide says that the BAT ERR 
message is due to Battery missing or battery voltage out of range due to a 
fully charged pack or a defective or missing cell...I suspect your cells that 
drifted down to zero volts look like defective or missing cells to the KXBC3. 
 They would certainly cause the voltage to be out of range resulting in the 
KXBC3 issuing that error message.I don't have much experience with regular NiMH 
cells (as opposed to Low Self
 Discharge NiMH cells), but I did try a set of them (Rayovac) a month or so ago 
with poor results.  After a couple of weeks of no usage, I had to recharge 
them.  One had dropped well below 1v, and the others varied some, but were near 
1v.  In my case, the KXBC3 was able to recharge them, but I wondered what would 
happen if I had left them in the KX3 longer until the voltage dropped well 
below 1v per cell.  I think I know now, based on your experience.I am certain 
you will be much happier with the Eneloops.  There are a couple of other good 
brands NiMH cells out there, but you must be certain they are Low Self 
Discharge cells unless you are willing to recharge them often.MarkKE6BB    
From: Richard Gagnon rich...@gagnonconsulting.comSent: ‎Wed, ‎Oct‎ ‎16‎, ‎2013 
at ‎4‎:‎40‎ ‎PMTo: 
 elecraft@mailman.qth.netSubject: [Elecraft] kx3 internal batteries questionI 
have a question about the batteries in my KX3.  I purchased and installed 8 
Anasman 2850 NiMH batteries in the KX3 andhave used the radio successfully on 
these batteries for several months,including several recharge cycles with the 
KX3 internal charger. I lastused the KX3 several months ago, so the batteries 
were
 understandablydead when I went to try it out the other day...
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Re: [Elecraft] Not 0-40C

[Mark Petiford]

Wow!  I sent this message around 11:00pm PDT last night and it made it to the 
list 9 hours later.  May be my fault, though.  I didn't check my outbox to be 
sure it actually went out before I shut down last night.

Mark
KE6BB
From: Mark Petiford rv6am...@yahoo.com
Sent: ‎Tue, ‎Oct‎ ‎1‎, ‎2013 at ‎8‎:‎01‎ ‎AM
To: Joel Black w4...@charter.net; elecraft elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Not 0-40C

Your NiMH cells are at or almost fully charged.  Near the end of the charge 
cycle, the NiMH cells convert more and more of the charge current to heat, and 
less to chemical conversion (charging).  When the cells reach 40deg. C, the 
KXBC3 suspends charging until the cell temperatures drop below 40 deg. C.  It 
will continue the charge cycle at that time.  This is all normal.

Reference Elecraft KXBC3 Installation and Operation Rev A2, page 4.

Mark
KE6BB
From: Joel Black w4...@charter.net
Sent: ‎Mon, ‎Sep‎ ‎30‎, ‎2013 at ‎4‎:‎11‎ ‎PM
To: elecraft elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: [Elecraft] Not 0-40C

I got the following message on my KX3 yesterday:

Not 0-40C

I was using a 16 hr charge.  At some point during the day, I turned it 
on, tuned it to 30 m and was just listening.  Later on, I turned the 
radio off.  That is when I got the message.

I have not seen this message and don't remember seeing anything about it 
on the reflector (but that doesn't mean anything with my CRS).  I also 
looked in the manual and searched the PDF manual for 40c and couldn't 
find anything.

I disconnected the power supply and the message stayed (yes unplugged 
from any power source except the internal batteries). After a little 
while (I don't remember how long), I plugged it back up and it started 
charging again.

Has anyone seen this before and knows what it is?

Thanks.

73,
Joel - W4JBB
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Re: [Elecraft] Not 0-40C

[Mark Petiford]

Re:  ...it would be nice to have the battery charger info integrated into the 
main manual...

Good idea, Walter.

I think that is the main cause of confusion and the source of the questions on 
this list and the Yahoo group.  The factory built folks probably never look at 
the installation instructions for the battery charger, so they can't find an 
explanation.  Even the kit builders may not notice the very short explanation 
in the charger installation manual since it is buried in there.  When we get an 
error message, most of us grab the KX3 owners manual and turn to the error code 
matrix near the back.  It isn't in that matrix, though.

Mark
KE6BB
From: Walter Underwood wun...@wunderwood.org
Sent: ‎Tue, ‎Oct‎ ‎1‎, ‎2013 at ‎7‎:‎56‎ ‎AM
To: Elecraft Reflector elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Not 0-40C

The error message could be better, too. I was mystified and I know about the 
temp sensor in the battery charger
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Re: [Elecraft] Question about my kx3. Problem?

[Mark Petiford]

In the menus, ensure that RX XFIL is set to Not Inst.   
Mark
KE6BB
    From: Tom tom...@videotron.ca
Sent: ‎Tue, ‎Oct‎ ‎1‎, ‎2013 at ‎8‎:‎41‎ ‎PM
To: Ray Sills raysil...@verizon.net
CC: Elecraft Mailing list Elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Question about my kx3. Problem?

No I do not have the roofing filters but even so, a cw signal without 400hz or 
less bandwidth is useless no?
So, if you put the radio in dual watch mode and the VOA and fob frequencies are 
the same then guess what? You can get all the way down to 150.
So what gives? Something isn't right
Tom




 Original message 
From: Ray Sills raysil...@verizon.net 
Date: 01/10/2013  21:45  (GMT-05:00) 
To: Tom tom...@videotron.ca 
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Question about my kx3. Problem? 
 
HI Tom:

It appears that you do not have the roofing filter option.  I had the  
same situation here, and was puzzled by it.   So, I just leave the  
tuning above 2.0 and all is OK.

73 de Ray
K2ULR
KX3 #211


On Oct 1, 2013, at 7:56 PM, Tom wrote:

 Hi just put together my new KX3 but something seems amiss. I was  
 tuning through the 40m cw band and I was not hearing any signals.. I  
 then switched to web mode and there were tons as to be expected. So  
 I put it back in cw mode and heard nothing tuning up and down the  
 bands. I then adjusted the BW using the pbt and as soon as it gets 
 to 2.0. I hear signals. Turn it down to 1.9 and nothing. Am I doing  
 something wrong here? I'm used to a k3
 Thanks, TOM
 VA2FSQ



 Envoyé depuis le Samsung GALAXY S4 via le réseau SFR
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Re: [Elecraft] Not 0-40C

[Mark Petiford]

The KXBC3 is simply shutting off the charge current until the cell temperatures 
drop back to the 0 to 40 deg. C charging temperature range.  Charging will 
continue once that happens.  (Reference: Elecraft KXBC3 Installation and 
Operation Rev A2, page 4).   Just another example of the protections Elecraft 
built into this radio.

The temperature increase normally occurs near the end of the charge cycle as 
the NiMH cells approach the fully charged condition.  Since the KXBC3is a 
constant current charger, it will attempt to keep pushing about 200ma into the 
cells.  Once fully charged, the cells cannot turn the power into the chemical 
change (charging), so they convert it to heat.  It is normal to see this near 
the end of the charge cycle in NiMH cells. 

Mark
KE6BB
From: Ralf Wilhelm r...@super-deutschland.net
Sent: ‎Mon, ‎Sep‎ ‎30‎, ‎2013 at ‎5‎:‎36‎ ‎AM
To: Joel Black w4...@charter.net
CC: elecraft elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Not 0-40C

Hi Joel,

I have seen the message once while I was charging my eneloop batteries using a 
16 h charge. I am not completely sure if the KX3 was on, but I think so. As far 
as I know, the message occurs when the batteries are getting too warm while 
charging, don't know if this is said in the KX3 manual or the battery charger 
manual (but in one of the two). In my case, it took about one hour before the 
KX3  went back into charging and completed the task.

Greetings

Ralf, DL6OAP

Am 30.09.2013 um 12:12 schrieb Joel Black w4...@charter.net:

 I got the following message on my KX3 yesterday:
 
 Not 0-40C
 
 I was using a 16 hr charge.  At some point during the day, I turned it on, 
 tuned it to 30 m and was just listening.  Later on, I turned the radio off.  
 That is when I got the message.
 
 I have not seen this message and don't remember seeing anything about it on 
 the reflector (but that doesn't mean anything with my CRS).  I also looked 
 in the manual and searched the PDF manual for 40c and couldn't find 
 anything.
 
 I disconnected the power supply and the message stayed (yes unplugged from 
 any power source except the internal batteries). After a little while (I 
 don't remember how long), I plugged it back up and it started charging again.
 
 Has anyone seen this before and knows what it is?
 
 Thanks.
 
 73,
 Joel - W4JBB
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Re: [Elecraft] Not 0-40C

[Mark Petiford]

Your NiMH cells are at or almost fully charged.  Near the end of the charge 
cycle, the NiMH cells convert more and more of the charge current to heat, and 
less to chemical conversion (charging).  When the cells reach 40deg. C, the 
KXBC3 suspends charging until the cell temperatures drop below 40 deg. C.  It 
will continue the charge cycle at that time.  This is all normal.

Reference Elecraft KXBC3 Installation and Operation Rev A2, page 4.

Mark
KE6BB
From: Joel Black w4...@charter.net
Sent: ‎Mon, ‎Sep‎ ‎30‎, ‎2013 at ‎4‎:‎11‎ ‎PM
To: elecraft elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: [Elecraft] Not 0-40C

I got the following message on my KX3 yesterday:

Not 0-40C

I was using a 16 hr charge.  At some point during the day, I turned it 
on, tuned it to 30 m and was just listening.  Later on, I turned the 
radio off.  That is when I got the message.

I have not seen this message and don't remember seeing anything about it 
on the reflector (but that doesn't mean anything with my CRS).  I also 
looked in the manual and searched the PDF manual for 40c and couldn't 
find anything.

I disconnected the power supply and the message stayed (yes unplugged 
from any power source except the internal batteries). After a little 
while (I don't remember how long), I plugged it back up and it started 
charging again.

Has anyone seen this before and knows what it is?

Thanks.

73,
Joel - W4JBB
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Re: [Elecraft] KX3 PSK help needed

[Mark Petiford]

Julie,

First of all, I assume you are trying to use the KX3 with a soundcard 
application like FLDIGI with the KX3 in Data A mode???  Operating in the KX3 
PSK mode (PSK-D) is a bit different, and only certain software packages support 
it.


Re:  The other day I succeeded in setting Mic Btn to OFF but today when I go 
to the menu the only choices for Mic Btn are PTT and NR...

I assume you mean NA rather than NR.  The menus are mode sensitive meaning 
if you are in a mode where that menu selection doesn't apply, it doesn't allow 
you to select it and usually says NA.  I think mine gives me NA when I am in 
Data A mode.  I am sure it does when in CW mode.

Re: Has anyone succeeded in using a LAPTOP with KX3 without an iMic or a 
signalink for PSK?

Yes.  I use the internal soundcard on all my computers.  IF you are trying to 
decode the IQ output at the same time, you will need a second soundcard, but 
don't worry about that yet.  I go directly into the computer's mic input and 
take sound out of the phones output.  Setting up the internal computer settings 
is the hard part.  Every operating system is different.  I normally use an 
i-Mic because it is inexpensive and works well, even on my Windows machines, 
and avoids transmitting system sounds.  I do not see any need for Signalink, 
attenuators, etc. All of that just makes life more difficult.

Re:  Would Don Wilhelm's comments about attenuators being needed between 
computer soundcard and KX3 apply to laptops as well? How would I know? What 
could I measure?

I have tried them, but find that they just confuse the issue.  They create 
another variable that you have to deal with.  I just use the Elecraft cables 
and connect directly.  On RX, the soundcard volume (and the KX3's volume 
control) affect the waterfall intensity.  If either of them are too low, you 
won't see anything on the waterfall...to high, and you will only see very 
bright colors.  For Transmitt, the soundcard volume affects the ALC setting.  
You don't want to get into ALC since it is a non-linear process.  See the KX3 
manual and your software docs for setting soundcard volume (and ALC).


Re:  I had a waterfall the other day but could not get TX to light up...

What software package are you using?  The setup varies for different software 
packages.  In addition, sometimes the soundcard gets put on mute.  Other times, 
software (other than your ham radio software) will change the volume settings.  
You may need to go to the operating system's soundcard settings  and adjust 
them every time you start up you ham radio software.  That is why a lot of hams 
will use a dedicated computer(s) for their operations.

Not much help here.  Just trying to give you encouragement.

Mark
KE6BB



 From: Julie Royster jsdroys...@bellsouth.net
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net 
Sent: Saturday, August 24, 2013 8:28 AM
Subject: [Elecraft] KX3 PSK help needed
 

Hello all,
I have studied the prior posts about KX3 and PSK31 but I am still not
getting it.

1.     The other day I succeeded in setting Mic Btn to OFF but today when
I go to the menu the only choices for Mic Btn are PTT and NR - OFF no longer
shows up as a choice!  Where did I go wrong?
2.    Has anyone succeeded in using a LAPTOP with KX3 without an iMic or a
signalink for PSK?  A lot of the prior posts refer to desktops that have a
line in connection (laptop does not) or to setups using iMic or Signalink.
3.    Would Don Wilhelm's comments about attenuators being needed between
computer soundcard and KX3 apply to laptops as well? How would I know? What
could I measure?
4.    I had a waterfall the other day but could not get TX to light up on
the KX3.  I am using the cables sold by Elecraft.
Any and all advice is greatly appreciated!
Julie KT4JR 
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Re: [Elecraft] Firmware change/feature

[Mark Petiford]

Absolutely!  Heat buildup due to protection devices that cycle can be very 
damaging, which exactly why you don't see self resetting circuit breakers in 
aircraft and very few in cars.

Mark
KE6BB

Sent from my iThingie.

On Aug 22, 2013, at 11:30 AM, Tom H Childers n...@n5ge.com wrote:

 Wouldn't it be better to find out what's causing the power drop and
 fix it?
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Re: [Elecraft] K3 Band Edge Marker Option (was Out of Band Xmit)

[Mark Petiford]

Re:  What if all your ops. are portable, and there is no wall?

You could take a Pink Floyd album along with you...

groan

...Sorry
Mark
KE6BB
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[Elecraft] Fw: Out of Band Xmit

[Mark Petiford]

- Forwarded Message -
From: Mark Petiford rv6am...@yahoo.com
To: Igor Sokolov ua9...@gmail.com 
Sent: Monday, August 19, 2013 9:36 PM
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Out of Band Xmit
 


What am I missing here.  In CW, my KX3 (US Kit build) rolls the power back and 
gives me the message, BND END when I try to transmit out of band.  Usually 
takes a DIT or two before it realizes it.  I admit, I can hear it in another 
receiver close by, but the output to the antenna is very low according to the 
KX3's power meter.  Haven't measured it with an external watt meter yet, though.


See the Owner's Manual, Pg 41 under Transmit, BND END: Attempt to transmit out 
of the allowed ham band.


Mark
KE6BB





73, Igor UA9CDC
- Original Message - 
From: Chris Johnson k6...@arrl.net
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Sent: Tuesday, August 20, 2013 7:30 AM
Subject: [Elecraft] Out of Band Xmit


I just discovered by accident that my KX3 will xmit out of the ham bands. 
Is this able to be locked so I can't do that?   I confirmed it was really 
transmitting using another radio.  I didn't try voice, just a CW tune by 
accident.


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[Elecraft] Hearing aids and K3

[Mark Petiford]

OK, just gotta tell my hearing aids story again.  I told it over on the Yahoo 
KX3 group, so if you read it over there, you can just delete this message.

My wife said I wasn't listening to her anymore.  I told her that my hearing 
wasn't as good as it used to be, and that I couldn't hear her very well 
anymore.  In an effort to prove that I was wrong, she made an appointment with 
an audiologist to have my hearing checked.  When the day arrived, the 
audiologist, who was a woman, tested my hearing and then put us in a room to 
wait.  When she finally walked into the room with the results of the test, she 
turned to my wife and simply said, He doesn't hear you anymore.  My wife, 
very upset that the audiologist had it all wrong, said, He doesn't listen to 
me anymore.  The audiologist responded with, No, he doesn't hear you 
anymore.  These volleys went back and forth a few times, and finally the 
audiologist said, Listen to me, he is deaf to the frequencies that carry 
intelligence in your voice.  At that point, I simply couldn't hold it back and 
said, There isn't any intelligence in her voice! 
 Now BOTH women in the room were mad at me!


True story, honest.

Oh, yes, I now wear hearing aids (Costco right now).  Too many noisy airplane 
cockpits in my younger years.  Today, pilots use high tech ear protection such 
as noise cancelling headsets.  Must be nice!  For a while, Beach actually sold 
a noise cancelling speaker systems for the cabins of King Air's.  Don't know if 
they still offer that anymore.


Mark
KE6BB




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Re: [Elecraft] OT: AM mode

[Mark Petiford]

Re: ...capture effect.  As AM does not have it, an air controller can tell 
when two aircraft transmit at once, much like on HF SSB for us.

Extremely important to controllers and pilots.  The resulting hetrodyne is very 
distinctive.


Mark
KE6BB




 From: Nate Bargmann n...@n0nb.us
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net 
Sent: Tuesday, July 16, 2013 12:56 PM
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] OT: AM mode
 

* On 2013 16 Jul 14:31 -0500, Ken G Kopp wrote:
 VHF/UHF aircraft radio has always been AM, and is likely / certain
 continue to be.  Why?  It's used world wide and discussions about
 changing it to FM have continued for years.  The conclusion seems
 to be that there is simply too much usage worldwide and little reason
 to make the change.  The cost to change to another mode would be
 horrendous!  Of course manufacturers would -love- to see the change.

From a coworker that worked in avionics years ago one reason can be
summed up in two words--capture effect.  As AM does not have it, an air
controller can tell when two aircraft transmit at once, much like on HF
SSB for us.  Beyond that and I would be into speculation.

73, de Nate 

-- 

The optimist proclaims that we live in the best of all
possible worlds.  The pessimist fears this is true.

Ham radio, Linux, bikes, and more: http://www.n0nb.us
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Re: [Elecraft] KX3 4 knobs and sea spray/salt corrosion

[Mark Petiford]

Re:  I wish the KX3 had a lock frequency function which would be useful when I 
have to do this, why is this still missing?

Dom,

Not quite sure what you mean by lock frequency, but try holding the 
RATE/KHZ key down for at least 3 seconds (longer than the normal 
press/hold).  The display will show a lock icon next to the frequency 
display, and the vfo A knob will not change the frequency.  See the 
owner's manual page 11 for more info and how to lock VFO B.

I have been reluctant to use my KX3 at the beach.  I have an ATS-3b that I used 
often at the beach for many years, and it has its share of damage 
from the salt fog environment.  It is much easier to seal, though, 
because there are no knobs to turn.  Everything is done with button 
presses, so operating it inside of a plastic freezer bag is relatively 
simple.  For the KX3, I have considered using something thinner, such as a 
turkey basting bag, but I really haven't had the time to experiment 
with one yet.

Sounds like the knurled knobs that hold the case together are your concern.  I 
don't think I would want to open my KX3 up in the salt fog environment I am 
usually in...not even sure I want to take the radio out of a plastic bag!  If I 
had unlimited resources (money), I would go ahead and operate and throw the 
radio away when it stops working, but that isn't really an option right now.


I am interested in what others are doing/considering.


Mark
KE6BB






 From: Dominic Baines dominic.bai...@ntlworld.com
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net 
Sent: Sunday, July 14, 2013 8:33 AM
Subject: [Elecraft] KX3 4 knobs and sea spray/salt corrosion
 

Hi,

In the last year I have operated a few times /P from the beach often 
with sea spray and recently twice on long ferry crossings of the North 
Sea (return operating was cut short though) and out on deck most things 
end up with a mist or film of sea spray on them and you will see the 
small white spots of salt when the water evaporates. I have noted at 
least two of the 4 knurled knobs on my KX3 are showing signs of 
corrosion and were becoming difficult to turn. I have cleaned the nut 
threads (both sides) and applied a very little copper grease to them I 
also washed the whole of the KX3 inside and out (part disassemble 
needed) using cotton buds and isopropal alcohol where any salt effects 
were obvious. The front bezel screws had kept 99.99% out from the 
display but I have had to remove that and clean it up a bit. I might put 
back with a fine bead of silicon sealant.

I have added a small copper braid flying lead between the two parts of 
the case and covered it with 'liquid rubber'.

The clam shell style unfortunately is not great if you operate in these 
environments as sand/salt does get in no matter how hard you try to 
protect it.

I do not immerse the radio in the sea but after a couple of weeks in 
this environment you will notice the effect. In the meantime antennas 
have had to have connectors remade etc. so it is not really a surprise.

Has anyone got an alternative to these knurled knobs that are a little 
bigger as it is very difficult to open the case wearing gloves? (you 
only need to if you are using the AA batteries which I tend not to if 
that wet) I had thought about swapping them for Ali versions or cutting 
slots in them for a screw driver. Anything like those lay flat butterfly 
nuts/ knobs you used to find on old military kit might suit better.

In definitely wet (i.e. raining) conditions the KX3 is used inside a 
tough see through plastic box (lock'n'lock) with leads passed through it 
with bathroom silicon sealant. I used to do this with my FT817 as well. 
Costs £5 from supermarket.

I wish the KX3 had a lock frequency function which would be useful when 
I have to do this, why is this still missing?

72

Dom
M1KTA
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Re: [Elecraft] Carriage Return in SVGA text messages?

[Mark Petiford]

...or an old guy.  The Model 19 TTY had a CR key, and a separate LF key, if my 
memory is correct.  That is what most of us used for RTTY before computers.  
Smelly, noisy, but they worked.  

The key was a CR key well before it was an ENTER key.

Mark
KE6BB
(An old guy)

Sent from my iThingie.

On Jul 6, 2013, at 11:01 AM, Tom H Childers n...@n5ge.com wrote:

 Hit the ENTER key.  I don't know why any one would refer to it as a
 carriage return unless they were a computer programmer ;o)
 
 73,
 Tom
 Amateur Radio Operator N5GE
 Licensed since 1976
 ARRL Lifetime Member
 QCWA Lifetime Member
 
 On Sat, 6 Jul 2013 13:48:47 -0400, Tim cook n...@woh.rr.com wrote:
 
 Maybe I'm missing the really obvious, but how do I insert a carriage return 
 when creating or editing a text message for the SVGA option? I can't find  
 references to it anywhere.
 
 Thanks
 Tim
 NZ8J
 
 
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 73,
 Tom
 Amateur Radio Operator N5GE
 Licensed since 1976
 ARRL Lifetime Member
 QCWA Lifetime Member
 
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Re: [Elecraft] Carriage Return in SVGA text messages?

[Mark Petiford]

Re:  But what really baffles me is that I  can not get it out of CAPS and I've 
been accused or shouting and just being rude.

That shows you that the folks who complain the most usually know the least!


Long time ago...going from memory here:


No small letters were available.  Up through the Model 19, everything used 
Baudot code which only had caps.  RTTY was the same way in those days.


Figures key put the TX and RX TTY's into Figures mode (numbers, punctuation, 
etc.), LTR key put them into letters mode. Figures and letters key was always 
sent twice just in case the first one didn't decode properly...or at least the 
letters key was.  That way you didn't leave the other guy in the opposite mode. 
 Nothing worse than being in figures when the other guy was sending letters!  
ASCII came later with Caps and small letters, and no FGS or LTR keys.  Model 23 
sent ascii.  I don't think it was compatible with our earlier TTY's.  I never 
had a model 23.  Went straight to rudimentary computer code/decode instead.  
Converted my homebrew terminal so it could talk to my computer (expanded Cosmac 
Elf with tiny display and keyboard...google it...wish I still had it).  Nothing 
like today, though.  I THINK that gave me the option to use ASCII, but can't 
remember for sure.


MARKcrlf
KEfgsfgs6ltrsltrsBBcrcrlflf





 From: Bob k...@att.net
To: Richard Fjeld rpfj...@embarqmail.com 
Cc: Elecraft Reflector elecraft@mailman.qth.net 
Sent: Saturday, July 6, 2013 12:29 PM
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Carriage Return in SVGA text messages?
 

Hi Dick,

             Yes, that was a recent discovery.  It is hidden under the FIGS and 
N keys.  But what really baffles me is that I  can not get it out of CAPS and 
I've been accused or shouting and just being rude.

             I guess I don't have enough time on the GREEN KEYS to have learned 
all the subtleties yet.

73,
Bob
K2TK


On 7/6/2013 2:36 PM, Richard Fjeld wrote:
 Bob,
 Have you found a comma on the model 15 yet?

 Dick, n0ce

    - Original Message -
    From: Bob
    To: n...@n5ge.com ; Elecraft Reflector
    Sent: Saturday, July 06, 2013 1:22 PM
    Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Carriage Return in SVGA text messages?


    Well my still operational Model 15 needs it as it does not have the 
Carriage
    Return (CR) option installed. Just for fun and demonstrations I fire it up.
    Driven from a Timewave 59Y.   No way to get Baudot out from the K3  P3.

    Many do not send it any more and it the Model 15 just sits there piling up 
ink
    at the end of a line.  And please do not forget to send the line feed (LF)
    character too as it needs it or it will print over the last line.   TNX!

    So the term is before computers and not from computer programmers, it is a
    historical reference to the original TTY.

    73,
    Bob
    K2TK  ex KN2TKR (1956)  K2TKR



    On 7/6/2013 2:01 PM, Tom H Childers wrote:
     Hit the ENTER key.  I don't know why any one would refer to it as a
     carriage return unless they were a computer programmer ;o)
    
     73,
     Tom
     Amateur Radio Operator N5GE
     Licensed since 1976
     ARRL Lifetime Member
     QCWA Lifetime Member
    
     On Sat, 6 Jul 2013 13:48:47 -0400, Tim cook n...@woh.rr.com wrote:
    
     Maybe I'm missing the really obvious, but how do I insert a carriage 
return when creating or editing a text message for the SVGA option? I can't 
find  references to it anywhere.
    
     Thanks
     Tim
     NZ8J
    
  

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Re: [Elecraft] Field Day Guide to K3 and P3 by K2QY--RECAP

[Mark Petiford]

Re: Thanks Ron and the rest of the tech writers for the manuals.

And another tip-of-the-hat from me to Ron and the other manual writers.  I also 
appreciate the posts Ron makes on this list, and the KX3 Yahoo group.  He 
always writes clearly, technically sound, and never insulting.  Throughout my 
career, I appreciated the Tech Writers who took my mixed up engineering babble 
and made sense out of it.  Now that I am retired, it is nice to see that I can 
still enjoy this often under-appreciated skill.

Respectfully,

Mark
KE6BB





 From: Bill Frantz fra...@pwpconsult.com

...Thanks Ron and the rest of the tech writers for the manuals. They are 
generally very good. Also three cheers for including an index. None of the 
manuals for my other radios have an index and become almost useless as a result.

Cheers - Bill, AE6JV

On 6/28/13 at 7:41 PM, r...@cobi.biz (Ron D'Eau Claire) wrote:

 I write some of Elecraft's manuals, and customer support is forever noting
 that a customer called about this (covered on page 4) and that (on pages
 9 and 11) and the other thing (page 15).
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Re: [Elecraft] Field Day Guide to K3 and P3 by K2QY--RECAP

[Mark Petiford]

Re: I am sorry I have had to write you such a long letter, but I did not have
time to write you a short one


That describes me perfectly!  I just cannot seem to write a short post...well, 
hopefully this one will be!

Mark
KE6BB




 From: Ron D'Eau Claire r...@cobi.biz
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net 
Sent: Saturday, June 29, 2013 9:44 AM
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Field Day Guide to K3 and P3 by K2QY--RECAP
 

Blaise Pascal once began a letter with:

I am sorry I have had to write you such a long letter, but I did not have
time to write you a short one

He was quite right. Writing something short and concise takes much longer
than writing a lengthy tome. 

73, Ron AC7AC
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Re: [Elecraft] ARRL Field Day

[Mark Petiford]

Bill's message brought a question to mind:

I am relatively new to PSK (operate mainly CW), but after receiving my KX3, 
started to take an interest in it.  After listening for some time, I became 
curious as to why some hams were giving out poor IMD reports and verbal reports 
of You are splattering all over when I wasn't always seeing the same thing.  
Some folks were just downright rude with their reports.  I realize that 
different software packages may give different IMD measurements, but a few were 
grossly different.  There seems to be a lot of information about getting things 
set right on the transmit side, but not so much on the receive side.  
Certainly, making sure the RF gain is down is important to keep all the 
amplifier stages linear, but little is ever mentioned about AGC.  It is similar 
to ALC on the transmit side, and is certainly non-linear if you are operating 
near or through the threshold (not sure I described that very well).  For 
those reasons, I would think that receiver
 AGC could also generate the IMD that these stations are seeing causing them to 
give out poor reports.  Admittedly, reducing RF gain helps to keep you from 
activating AGC, but seems like maybe turning AGC off before giving a signal 
quality report would be advisable.  Some of the comments I have heard have kept 
me from jumping into PSK with both feet.  They take the fun out of operating.


The website http://rsq-info.net/ has been most helpful, but I don't recall 
seeing any mention of AGC, so maybe I am completely off base here.  I am really 
a PSK novice, so any comments would be appreciated.  I haven't run any digital 
modes (except cw) since I sold my Model 19 TTY.  Back then, we didn't have an 
easy way to measure IMD or even see the sidebands that you see on a waterfall, 
and you almost couldn't hear the audio over the clatter of the Model 19 once 
you had your signal sync'd up.  We just operated.


Mark
KE6BB

  




 From: Eric Swartz  WA6HHQ - Elecraft e...@elecraft.com
To: Bill Frantz fra...@pwpconsult.com 
Cc: elecraft reflector elecraft@mailman.qth.net 
Sent: Wednesday, June 26, 2013 10:16 PM
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] ARRL Field Day
 

Hi Bill,

Its much more likely they had wide band TX phase noise that was causing your 
problems. (Unless they were running K3s :-) There is not much on the receive 
side that you can do to eliminate that. 

Eric
elecraft.com
_..._



On Jun 27, 2013, at 3:37 AM, Bill Frantz fra...@pwpconsult.com wrote:

 The West Valley Amateur Radio Association field day operation was set up as 
 it has been for the last few years on Mora Hill. Mora Hill is at an altitude 
 of about 500' on the west side of the Santa Clara Valley, California. This 
 year we were 9A SCV. We had 4 towers with various Uda-Yagi antennas for 20M, 
 15M, and 10M with wire antennas for 40M and 80M.
 
 On HF we were an all K3 operation and for the second year in a row 
 experienced no mutual interference between our transmitters. We did set up 
 our antennas in a line, all pointed at the east coast, so the side lobe 
 rejection helped reduce interference. I was operating the digital station for 
 most of the event and the only indication I had of other stations in our 
 operation was a strong track on the P3 from our CW operation.
 
 I did get significant interference from another field day operation. They 
 were set up perhaps 1/4 mile away in the major lobe of our antennas using 100 
 watts. When I turned the RF gain down low enough to prevent overload from 
 their signal it looked like a clean PSK signal, so I think the wide-band 
 interference was being generated in my receive chain. However, with the gain 
 that low, I couldn't receive anyone else. :-)
 
 The K3 I was using has 250Hz 8 pole and 2.1KHz 8 pole filters in addition to 
 the 2.7 and FM filters. I could get the interfering station out of the 
 passband on the 250 filter quite easily, but there was still a wide band of 
 noise covering the entire 2KHz band of the computer waterfall. Using the 
 notch filter didn't eliminate the noise.
 
 In the end we had 139 digital QSOs in the log and many more CW and SSB ones. 
 We all ended up tired and happy which means we had a good field day.
 
 Does anyone have any ideas about how to improve reception under these 
 conditions?
 
 Cheers - Bill, AE6JV
 
 ---
 Bill Frantz        |Web security is like medicine - trying to do good for
 408-356-8506       |an evolved body of kludges - Mark Miller
 www.pwpconsult.com |
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Re: [Elecraft] Source of NiMH cells?

[Mark Petiford]

The Sanyo's are also known as Eneloops.  Be sure to get 2000mah or higher 
capacity cells.  

Mark
KE6BB

Sent from my iThingie.

On Jun 27, 2013, at 11:56 AM, Matt Zilmer mzil...@verizon.net wrote:

 Sanyo, Tenergy, Powerex, Imedion, Panasonic, etc.
 
 matt W6NIA
 
 On Thu, 27 Jun 2013 18:51:22 +, you wrote:
 
 I'm guilty of not paying much attention to reflector
 chatter concerning batteries, as I didn't expect to
 need any. (:-)
 
 Now I have a new KX3 (S/N 4437) and find I need
 a set to keep the clock running when it's off 12V.
 
 Who's a good source?
 
 73!
 
 Ken - K0PP
 kengk...@gmail.com
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Re: [Elecraft] Source of NiMH cells?

[Mark Petiford]

Correct, Matt.  I am actually running Panasonic HHR210AAB cells right now, 
which appear to be Enelooops with a different jacket, based on my research.  We 
used them in my work, but only recharged them a few times, so I was able to get 
them cheap, and they work well.  I have a lot of experience with Eneloop 2000 
maH cells at home...probably a more severe environment than my work!  They seem 
to be very forgiving so long as you don't discharge them below 0.9 volts per 
cell.

I think early this year, we were seeing a lot of out of the box infant 
mortality with the Rayovac rechargeable NiMH cells.  Not sure if that is still 
a problem.

Mark
KE6BB





 From: Matt Zilmer mzil...@verizon.net
To: Mark Petiford rv6am...@yahoo.com 
Cc: Rose elecraftcov...@gmail.com; Elecraft Reflector 
elecraft@mailman.qth.net 
Sent: Thursday, June 27, 2013 12:51 PM
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Source of NiMH cells?
 

Just to be clear, there are Sanyo's Eneloops out there at retail, but
also a line of Sanyo commercial cells generally sold only as OEM
product.  I had a 14.8V pack built from the latter: 39 WH - so good
for several days of KX3 CW ops.

73,
matt W6NIA

On Thu, 27 Jun 2013 12:43:07 -0700, you wrote:

The Sanyo's are also known as Eneloops.  Be sure to get 2000mah or higher 
capacity cells.  

Mark
KE6BB

Sent from my iThingie.

On Jun 27, 2013, at 11:56 AM, Matt Zilmer mzil...@verizon.net wrote:

 Sanyo, Tenergy, Powerex, Imedion, Panasonic, etc.
 
 matt W6NIA
 
 On Thu, 27 Jun 2013 18:51:22 +, you wrote:
 
 I'm guilty of not paying much attention to reflector
 chatter concerning batteries, as I didn't expect to
 need any. (:-)
 
 Now I have a new KX3 (S/N 4437) and find I need
 a set to keep the clock running when it's off 12V.
 
 Who's a good source?
 
 73!
 
 Ken - K0PP
 kengk...@gmail.com
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Re: [Elecraft] Seeting digital RX levels - was: ARRL Field Day

[Mark Petiford]

Good tips, Bill.  I appreciate your comments.


I think I will play around with two radios and do some measurements myself just 
to be sure I can believe in my own signal.  There is a pretty good guide to 
measuring IMD on rsq-info.net.  Once I make sure my TX side is clean, I can 
play with my RX side to see how if I can make a good signal look bad just for 
my own education.  That will be fun and educational as well.


Tnx again.

Mark
KE6BB




 From: Bill Frantz fra...@pwpconsult.com
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net 
Sent: Thursday, June 27, 2013 1:03 PM
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Seeting digital RX levels - was: ARRL Field Day
 

As far as I can tell, the sound card is the limiting factor in 
receive IMD generation when using a K3, KX3 or K2. I try to run 
my receive just below where the computer software indicates the 
digital levels are distorting, and control that level with the 
RF gain control. This procedure seems to keep all the radio 
pieces within their linear range. I can see IMD being generated 
on my waterfall when I have the RF gain too high, and it is all 
in my receive chain.

Measuring IMD on a PSK signal is not as easy as it seems. Any 
band noise may be interpreted as IMD, so the weaker the signal, 
the worse the IMD reading. Ideally IMD measurements will be 
taken with a strong signal and without any data -- so you just 
have the PSK idle railroad tracks. I just ignore IMD 
measurements from stations I am only receiving weakly, assuming 
they are also receiving me weakly. From strong stations, I get 
good reports.

As for obnoxious, rude reports; they aren't limited to PSK. I 
answered a CQ on 80M SSB running QRP and the ham at the other 
end just said, Get an amp! A signal report and a comment that 
I was too weak to continue the conversation would seem to be the 
least one should expect. I'll just try to remember not to behave 
rudely myself.

Cheers - Bill, AE6JV

On 6/26/13 at 11:45 PM, rv6am...@yahoo.com (Mark Petiford) wrote:

I am relatively new to PSK (operate mainly CW), but after 
receiving my KX3, started to take an interest in it.  After 
listening for some time, I became curious as to why some hams 
were giving out poor IMD reports and verbal reports of You are 
splattering all over when I wasn't always seeing the same 
thing.  Some folks were just downright rude with their 
reports.  I realize that different software packages may give 
different IMD measurements, but a few were grossly different.  
There seems to be a lot of information about getting things set 
right on the transmit side, but not so much on the receive side.

---
Bill Frantz        |Security, like correctness, is| Periwinkle
(408)356-8506      |not an add-on feature. - Attr-| 16345 
Englewood Ave
www.pwpconsult.com |ibuted to Andrew Tanenbaum    | Los Gatos, 
CA 95032

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Re: [Elecraft] Source of NiMH cells?

[Mark Petiford]

Matt,

That would explain why, on the Yahoo Group, we were seeing complaints of a cell 
or two out of eight, failing right out of the box!!!  I was amazed at that.

FYI, All Electronics sells a Tenergy cell that is a D size cell with a capacity 
of 10,000 maH:

http://www.allelectronics.com/make-a-store/item/NMH-D/NIMH-RECHARGEABLE-D-CELL-10-000MAH/1.html


I don't have one, but they do not appear to be AA cells in a D size 
sleeve...not with that capacity!  They won't fit in a KX3, but I had thought I 
might build a tube of these as an external battery pack.  Unfortunately, I 
don't think it would be much less expensive than a similar size pack of LiFePo 
cells.  I wouldn't have to buy the balanced charger, but would have to make up 
a constant current charger myself...or else charge with a variable voltage 
power supply while manually adjusting the voltage to keep the current 
relatively constant.  Makes the newer lithium technology look better and 
better.  


Now, if I could just get myself to trust Lithium technology enough to charge 
them in my living room...


Mark
KE6BB
(Hoping someone can convince me).





 From: Matt Zilmer mzil...@verizon.net
To: Mark Petiford rv6am...@yahoo.com 
Cc: Elecraft Reflector elecraft@mailman.qth.net 
Sent: Thursday, June 27, 2013 2:29 PM
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Source of NiMH cells?
 

Hi Mark,

You caught me in the middle a battery research project (day job) and I
found some dirt on Rayovac -literally-:ALK and NiMH both.  Pretty
severe manufacturing issues, though the details about the
contamination weren't spelled out.  No CPSC issues though, so they're
still in business.

It got so bad that Rayovac has to put a banner on all retail blister
packs:  Lasts As Long As Duracell or some such.

Everyone seems pretty pleased with the Eneloops, so that's good.  I
used them on the KX3 for a while, then ran a few tests and ended up
with Tenergy Premium.  To each his own!

73,
matt W6NIA

On Thu, 27 Jun 2013 14:13:40 -0700 (PDT), you wrote:

Correct, Matt.  I am actually running Panasonic HHR210AAB cells right now, 
which appear to be Enelooops with a different jacket, based on my research.  
We used them in my work, but only recharged them a few times, so I was able to 
get them cheap, and they work well.  I have a lot of experience with Eneloop 
2000 maH cells at home...probably a more severe environment than my work!  
They seem to be very forgiving so long as you don't discharge them below 0.9 
volts per cell.

I think early this year, we were seeing a lot of out of the box infant 
mortality with the Rayovac rechargeable NiMH cells.  Not sure if that is 
still a problem.

Mark
KE6BB





 From: Matt Zilmer mzil...@verizon.net
To: Mark Petiford rv6am...@yahoo.com 
Cc: Rose elecraftcov...@gmail.com; Elecraft Reflector 
elecraft@mailman.qth.net 
Sent: Thursday, June 27, 2013 12:51 PM
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Source of NiMH cells?
 

Just to be clear, there are Sanyo's Eneloops out there at retail, but
also a line of Sanyo commercial cells generally sold only as OEM
product.  I had a 14.8V pack built from the latter: 39 WH - so good
for several days of KX3 CW ops.

73,
matt W6NIA

On Thu, 27 Jun 2013 12:43:07 -0700, you wrote:

The Sanyo's are also known as Eneloops.  Be sure to get 2000mah or higher 
capacity cells.  

Mark
KE6BB

Sent from my iThingie.

On Jun 27, 2013, at 11:56 AM, Matt Zilmer mzil...@verizon.net wrote:

 Sanyo, Tenergy, Powerex, Imedion, Panasonic, etc.
 
 matt W6NIA
 
 On Thu, 27 Jun 2013 18:51:22 +, you wrote:
 
 I'm guilty of not paying much attention to reflector
 chatter concerning batteries, as I didn't expect to
 need any. (:-)
 
 Now I have a new KX3 (S/N 4437) and find I need
 a set to keep the clock running when it's off 12V.
 
 Who's a good source?
 
 73!
 
 Ken - K0PP
 kengk...@gmail.com
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Re: [Elecraft] KX3 and Rocky 3.7

[Mark Petiford]

Re:  ...KX3 I/Q bandwidth is limited to something like 48kHz...


It is actually 192 kHz wide per the Owner's Manual, Page 26:
Set the correct sampling rate...192kHz sampling will yield a display of about 
+/- 96 kHz.

My Sony VAIO VPCF121GX laptop has a very quiet 192 kHz internal soundcard, and 
it displays +/- 96 kHz hooked directly to the KX3.  That is not to say that all 
that bandwidth is required, or even really needed.  Most of the time I have it 
scaled down considerably.  A 192 kHz soundcard will certainly cost more, so you 
may want to consider a 48 kHz card.  They are the easiest to find, and won't 
break the bank.

I have a Griffin iMic (48 kHz), but I usually use it for fldigi's display, and 
keep Rocky running using the internal soundcard at the bottom of the screen as 
the bandscope.  I just tried using the iMic with Rocky, and it works hooked 
directly to the KX3.  Looks great on 2.5, 5, and 20 mhz WWV, but not as good on 
10 and 15mhz. I just tried turning the preamp on, and it really helped on 10 
and 15 mHz.  I think I paid about $35 for this and it looks great!  I really 
need to work with it at a time other than the middle of the night.  It is after 
1am right now and I am not thinking to well. 


It is unfortunate that Rocky cannot read the KX3's frequency.  It has one of 
the most useful frequency domain displays that I have seen.  I said useful, not 
pretty.  You can really see the signal, its bandwidth, and sidebands (key 
clicks on CW) on Rocky better than any other program I have tried.  NaP3 is my 
second choice since its frequency domain display is almost as good, it is 
pretty, and reads the KX3 frequency, but I cannot get it to display properly on 
this wide screen laptop.  It overwrites itself.


Way past my bedtime.

Mark
KE6BB




 From: Don Wilhelm w3...@embarqmail.com
To: Kenneth A Christiansen w...@i29.net 
Cc: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net Elecraft@mailman.qth.net 
Sent: Monday, June 24, 2013 7:24 PM
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] KX3 and Rocky 3.7
 

Ken,

Since the KX3 I/Q bandwidth is limited to something like 48kHz, you do 
not need an exotic soundcard which will give you a 192 kHz span, most 
external soundcards will do the job just fine.
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Re: [Elecraft] KX3 and Rocky 3.7

[Mark Petiford]

Forgot to mention that Rocky only supports up to 96 kHz.


Mark
KE6BB



 From: Mark Petiford rv6am...@yahoo.com
To: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net Elecraft@mailman.qth.net 
Sent: Tuesday, June 25, 2013 1:20 AM
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] KX3 and Rocky 3.7
 


Re:  ...KX3 I/Q bandwidth is limited to something like 48kHz...


It is actually 192 kHz wide per the Owner's Manual, Page 26:
Set the correct sampling rate...192kHz sampling will yield a display of about 
+/- 96 kHz.
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Re: [Elecraft] KX3 internal batt. questions?

[Mark Petiford]

I don't have a K2, but maybe I can shed some light on it:

Is access to terminals and exchange of  int. battery for KX3 as inconvenient 
as it is for the K2?
Access to the terminals is not really required to change the internal battery.  
You simply loosen the 4 screws that hold the case halves together, pull and 
rotate the case halves apart, remove the 8 cells from the holder, and replace 
them with new ones.

Take a look at the Owner's Manual, Page 23:

http://www.elecraft.com/manual/E740163%20KX3%20Owner%27s%20man%20Rev%20B4.pdf

I went with NiMH rechargeable cells since I don't trust alkaline cells to 
remained sealed.  NiMH can leak as well, but it is far less common and doesn't 
seem to be as destructive.  I have been using them for years, and the only 
leakage I have experienced has been with them sitting in a box completely 
discharged for several years.  The latest generation (Sanyo Eneloop among 
others) may be even better since they have a much lower self-discharge rate.  
That is what I use in my KX3.  Since I also use the KXBC3 charger, I seldom 
open the case.


Is there a series diode on the ext. power connector that will cause forward 
bias voltage drop if powered by external battery?
Yes, but it is on the Control Panel Board Assembly.  It is a CMS04 Schottky 
Barrier Diode, so the drop is only about 0.2 volts during receive, and 0.3 
volts during transmit.

Hope this helps.

Mark
KE6BB
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Re: [Elecraft] Serial Number Data Base

[Mark Petiford]

Got it.  Thanks, Fred.

Mark
KE6BB




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Re: [Elecraft] Serial Number Data Base

[Mark Petiford]

Ron,

As always, thank you for your down to earth response.  That was the type of 
answer I was looking for.

By ...work all the serial numbers... I assume you mean learn who owns them 
and/or where they are located, etc.  I know some folks are as interested in 
radio serial numbers as I am in what makes it tick.  It is all a part of the 
depth of this hobby.  Since most of my equipment is homebrew, built from some 
type of kit, or in the boat anchor category, very little of my equipment is 
serialized.  I understand why a manufacturer serializes his products, but I 
have been a bit surprise at the serial number pride that I have seen.  
Surprised, but not upset.

Obviously, I do not buy a lot of new equipment.  In the case of the KX3, they 
took most everything I wanted in a radio and packaged it into a very nice 
package, so I had to buy one!  Sorry that I didn't make it clear that I was 
just wondering why someone would go register their radio serial number in a 
third party database.

Now, I wonder if zerobeat would be interested in creating a category for my 
homebrew Whaddon Mark VII Paraset replicas...probably not.


Mark
KE6BB



 From: Ron D'Eau Claire r...@cobi.biz
To: 'elecraft' elecraft@mailman.qth.net 
Sent: Saturday, June 15, 2013 10:21 AM
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Serial Number Data Base
 

At one time a lot of fellows tried to work all the serial numbers for a
given rig. That was back in the early days when the K2 was the flagship
rig. 
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Re: [Elecraft] Serial Number Data Base

[Mark Petiford]

And the purpose of this database is...???




 From: David Ferrington, M0XDF m0...@alphadene.co.uk
To: Kenneth A Christiansen w...@i29.net 
Cc: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net Elecraft@mailman.qth.net 
Sent: Friday, June 14, 2013 8:10 AM
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Serial Number Data Base
 

It's http://www.zerobeat.net/cgi-bin/k2data/db.cgi and there is an option for a 
KX3
73 de David, M0XDF
-- 
Accuracy Transcends Speed

On 14 Jun 2013, at 15:06, Kenneth A Christiansen wrote:

 Hi from Ken W0CZ
 
 I remember entering my serial number in a data base when I built me K2 and 
 later my K3. I can't seem to find that location to enter the serial number 
 for my KX3. Was this data base discontinued? Does anyone know the way to get 
 to it if it is still in use?
 
 Thanks
 
 Ken   W0CZ

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Re: [Elecraft] USB Sound Card for Win7

[Mark Petiford]

Dick,

You are almost there.  It appears you got through steps 1 and 2, but you also 
need to do steps 3, 4,and 5 below:

1. Right click on the speaker icon on the lower right of the screen and select 
Playback Devices.
2. The Sound window will open.  Be sure the Playback tab is selected.  This is 
where you can select the default device.  More on that below.
3. Right click on Speakers iMac USB Audio System and select Properties in the 
dropdown menu.

4. The Speaker Properties window will open, select the Levels tab in that 
window.
5. Be sure the Speakers slider is set to something greater than zero, and be 
sure the little speaker icon is not muted.  You can leave this window open 
while you try to play a file; however, be sure to click on OK once the volume 
is set correctly.


Be sure you have the headphones plugged into the Out jack of the iMac.  Of 
course, I never make mistakes like that. ;-)


If you are simply playing a file back, you must have the iMac selected as the 
default device in the Sound window, item 2 above.  That tells your PC to send 
the digital sound (music) to that device, unless you tell a specific program 
otherwise.  You do not need for it to be the default device if you are setting 
it up to work with a program such as FLDIGI.  You will tell that program to 
send data to that device.  In fact, you probably don't want it to be the 
default device so you can prevent Windows from sending your music, and every 
other beep and blurp that Windows makes, out over the air!  That is one big 
advantage of using a separate soundcard for digital modes.

Hope this helps.

Mark

KE6BB




 From: Richard Fjeld rpfj...@embarqmail.com
To: Mark Petiford rv6am...@yahoo.com; Phil Kane k2...@kanafi.org; 
elecraft@mailman.qth.net 
Sent: Wednesday, June 12, 2013 11:35 PM
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] USB Sound Card for Win7
 


 
Mark,
 
I have followed your instructions, and I agree with you 
on all.  
 
But I am at this point; I right click on the speaker 
icon, then click on 'playback devices'. I have iMic selected as default device 
under speakers.  When I play a music file, I see the level indicator at the 
far right following the music volume, but no sound.  (My headset and 
iMic work fine on my XP computer)  I wonder what I have 
overlooked.
 
Dick, n0ce
 
- Original Message - 
From: Mark Petiford 
To: Phil Kane ; elecraft@mailman.qth.net 
Sent: Thursday, June 13, 2013 12:33  AM
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] USB Sound Card  for Win7

Phil,

No special drivers required. I use Win7 64 bit and 
  it works great.

Try this: Right click on the little speaker icon in the 
  lower right corner of the screen and click on recording devices. In the 
  window that opens, right click on iMic Microphone USB audio system, and 
  click on Properties. In the window that opens, click on the levels tab and be 
  sure the volume is turned up and the button on the right says it is enabled. 
  You may need to experiment with the volume slider vs. the MIC/Line switch in 
  the iMic. I usually keep it on Line, and the volume slider at about 50%. When 
  I turn the volume up to about 20 on the KX3, I get a good waterfall display. 

I have been using an iMic for years, and once I make sure it is 
  enabled and the volume is turned up, it works great for either I/Q or as an 
  input to digital mode software (I use FLDIGI) input. Keep in mind that 
  sometimes, other software will change your settings, so you have to check 
them 
  again if it suddenly seems to stop working. If you want to use its output as 
  an input to the MIC jack on the KX3, you will have to go thru a similar setup 
  for the iMic Speakers.

I think this little USB Soundcard is one of 
  the best buys I have made. When I first got it, I too had problems setting it 
  up, but I was simply making it more complicated than it needed to be. I 
really 
  think it is easier under Win7 than XP because everything can be selected 
  starting with a right click on the little speaker icon. It all starts there. 
  No reason to open volume controls and figure out which menu you need to use 
  next.

Hope this 
  helps.

Mark
KE6BB



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Re: [Elecraft] USB Sound Card for Win7

[Mark Petiford]

Phil,

No special drivers required.  I use Win7 64 bit and it works great.

Try this:  Right click on the little speaker icon in the lower right corner of 
the screen and click on recording devices.  In the window that opens, right 
click on iMic Microphone USB audio system, and click on Properties.  In the 
window that opens, click on the levels tab and be sure the volume is turned up 
and the button on the right says it is enabled.  You may need to experiment 
with the volume slider vs. the MIC/Line switch in the iMic.  I usually keep it 
on Line, and the volume slider at about 50%.  When I turn the volume up to 
about 20 on the KX3, I get a good waterfall display. 

I have been using an iMic for years, and once I make sure it is enabled and the 
volume is turned up, it works great for either I/Q or as an input to digital 
mode software (I use FLDIGI) input.  Keep in mind that sometimes, other 
software will change your settings, so you have to check them again if it 
suddenly seems to stop working.  If you want to use its output as an input to 
the MIC jack on the KX3, you will have to go thru a similar setup for the iMic 
Speakers.

I think this little USB Soundcard is one of the best buys I have made.  When I 
first got it, I too had problems setting it up, but I was simply making it more 
complicated than it needed to be.  I really think it is easier under Win7 than 
XP because everything can be selected starting with a right click on the little 
speaker icon.  It all starts there.  No reason to open volume controls and 
figure out which menu you need to use next.

Hope this helps.

Mark
KE6BB




 From: Phil Kane k2...@kanafi.org
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net 
Sent: Wednesday, June 12, 2013 9:39 PM
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] USB Sound Card for Win7
 

On 6/12/2013 9:13 PM, Joe Subich, W4TV wrote:

 In setting up my new Win7 computer I find that my iMic USB soundcard
 device is not compatible.
 
 Huh?  iMic should be supported as USB Audio CODEC (the standard USB
 Audio Class Device).

That's what baffles me.  The system appears to load the above driver,
but no audio gets through.  Taking the device and plugging it into a
WinXP machine - audio gets through.  The manufacturer's site says that
the device is not compatible with Vista so I suspect that it is not
compatible with Win7 'as is.

73 de K2ASP - Phil Kane
Elecraft K2/100   s/n 5402

From a Clearing in the Silicon Forest
Beaverton (Washington County) Oregon
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Re: [Elecraft] Has the KX3 rescued Ham radio?

[Mark Petiford]

This is a great idea.  When I was a kid growing up in a small midwest town, the 
local doctor would leave put his old copies of Flying and AOPA Pilot in his 
waiting room.  I loved to go to the doctor (well, not quite) just to read those 
magazines.  It led to an 43 year career in Aviation.  If he would have been a 
ham, I suspect it would have led to a career in electronics.  Sometimes the 
little thing have a big influence.

Mark
KE6BB




 From: Terry Schieler w...@swbell.net
To: 'Howard Evans' hevans1...@woh.rr.com; Elecraft@mailman.qth.net 
Sent: Monday, June 10, 2013 7:58 AM
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Has the KX3 rescued Ham radio?
 

A few years back, someone posted a suggestion to help spread the word about
our hobby.  Take old copies of your amateur radio periodicals and drop them
off in the waiting rooms of your health care providers, car care centers,
state license offices, etc.  Six months ago I put retired copies of CQ and
QST on the table in my company's customer waiting areas among the usual
reading.

Today they are all gone.  Disappeared.  Stolen (and shared I hope).  I will
replenish the supply.  

I did not report the disappearance. ;o)

I guess the added good news is that our customers didn't have to wait very
long and therefore had to take the ham mags home with them to finish reading
what had caught their interest.

Terry, W0FM



-Original Message-
From: Howard Evans [mailto:hevans1...@woh.rr.com] 
Sent: Sunday, June 09, 2013 3:49 PM
To: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Has the KX3 rescued Ham radio?

My experience has been similar to yours, Dan. Off the air since 1967, I
became licensed again April 1, 2013, bought a KX3 with all the trimmin's,
and am now proud to be a part of the Elecraft community.

Ham radio didn't die between 1967 and 2013. If anything, it has expanded.
More bands, more modes, more everything except new young amateurs.

The amateur radio community is all about having fun and communicating with
each other via radio. The younger generation is all about having fun and
communcating with each other too, except their medium of choice is the
Internet and cell phones. We can introduce them to HTs and repeaters, but
how do you compete with Facebook and Youtube? Maybe we can't. So instead of
competing we offer alternative ways to have fun and communcate and use
Facebook and Youtube to promote the alternatives.

Ham radio doesn't need to be resecued. It just needs more participation
from  a younger group of people to really thrive and grow against the
competition  for more bandwidth. Use it or lose it, as they say. Coordinated
efforts from  all involved are necessary: ARRL, clubs, and local publicity
in schools and  colleges can all be helpful. Kit building seems to be
driving a resurgance  of interest in electronics and computers, and that can
lead to an interest  in amateur radio. Mentoring youngters who might want to
become Hams works  too. QRP CW is yet another avenue to attract new Hams
with low-cost rigs and  simple antennas.

There are endless possibilites for recruitment to rescue amateur radio,
much more than when I got my Novice ticket forty-seven years ago. But it
will take more than just on-the-air ragchewing and posting to the choir in
Ham radio forums such as this one. It will take a concerted effort. Join a
club. Join the ARRL. Participate in high-profile community services that
involve amateur radio. Become involved.

Thank you for your revival in interest and your post.

Hop - AC8NS


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Re: [Elecraft] Has the KX3 rescued Ham radio?

[Mark Petiford]

Re Dan's comment:  So, to be fair, I was one of those gear hungry hams.

I was the opposite type of ham.  I couldn't see spending a lot of money on a 
hobby when I was starting a career with a house in Southern California, cars to 
pay for and maintain, three college educations to save for, savings and 
investing for future retirement, and three beautiful daughters ready to help 
keep my wallet trimmed down (I love them dearly, though).  I sacrificed big 
expensive radios willingly so that my family could enjoy their interests.  I 
maintained my modest station (TT540, a vhf HT, Model 19 TTY, 3 el. CL-33 on 
30ft. tower, etc.), but eventually became more interested in microprocessors (I 
do not mean building PC's from pre-manufactured boards), and eventually drifted 
away from ham radio.  About 10 or so years ago, I was introduced to QRP, and I 
found I could have a lot of fun with simple, inexpensive QRP rigs, built from 
kits or from scratch, paired with simple wire antennas.  When I saw the first 
KX3, I knew it was the radio for
 me.  I retired recently, and it became a retirement gift to myself, sparking a 
new interest in portable operation and being involved with ham radio in more 
general way.  I still don't have a big station with all the latest big radios 
(I call them boat sinkers...as opposed to boat anchors), but I don't really 
want one.  My KX3 looks very nice sitting on the coffee table (I have a 
wonderful wife!) and performs quite well for what I need.  Occasionally I even 
hook it up to my laptop to run digital modes...great fun!


As we strengthen individuals' interests in Ham Radio, we make the entire hobby 
stronger.  Good to see you are enjoying the radio, Dan.


Mark
KE6BB




 From: Dan McCoy docd...@gmail.com
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net elecraft@mailman.qth.net 
Sent: Sunday, June 9, 2013 9:58 AM
Subject: [Elecraft] Has the KX3 rescued Ham radio?
 

So, to be fair, I was one of those gear hungry hams. I had outfitted my shack 
with every toy and gadget I could fit into my refitted closet.  Then over the 
years I noticed that I was losing interest...first code, then data...and to be 
frank there was just nothing new and the hobby started to lose my interest.  
I sold much of my gear but continued to read and keep up.  

Then came along the KX3.  

I read as much as I could find, dropped an order for every extra component on a 
Friday. The ups man was at my door on Tuesday with the little radio.  I bought 
the pre-built model so literally I threw 26 feet of Wireman 534 and a counter 
poise on the BNC adaptor2 min later I had a contact in Wisconsin. 

So why do I think it will rescue Ham radio? It forces us (ok, gently) to go 
back to being experimenters, operate remote, makes using code cool and useful, 
and to be honest just great fun. 

Great job
 Elecraft. Proud to now be a part of your family. 

Dan
N2DRM

Sent from my iPhone
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Re: [Elecraft] A Rob Sherwood's talk in Dayton

[Mark Petiford]

...and I love the sound of the speaker for my old 1947 RME 45 receiver, but its 
steel cabinet is over 60 times the size (volume) of my KX3, and weighs at least 
10 times more, so I just can't see using it with the KX3. ;-)

Mark
KE6BB




 From: Edward R Cole kl...@acsalaska.net
To: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net 
Sent: Sunday, June 9, 2013 2:25 PM
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] A Rob Sherwood's talk in Dayton
 

Hey, Don.

I like the sound of my old 1950's metal National Speaker.  True is 
has a bit more bass than needed but the K3 sounds much mellower than 
the internal speaker.  For really tough to hear signals I use 
headphones, anyway.  I eventually will replace the cheap HK computer 
speakers used with my KX3 with probably the West Mountain comm 
speaker (immune to RFI).

73, Ed - KL7UW
http://www.kl7uw.com
dubus...@gmail.com
Kits made by KL7UW 

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Re: [Elecraft] KX3 and charging batteries (when, and why do they get hot?)

[Mark Petiford]

Arno,

All eight cells are now at 1.4V. When I turn the TRX
on, the integrated meter shows 10.5 V now. I think this morning, when I
checked after the full charge, it showed 11.6V

Excellent.  All appears to be normal and is almost exactly what I typically see 
on mine.  Immediately after charging, the voltage is highest.  It usually 
settles pretty quickly down to about 10.5 or so volts, even if I don't actually 
use the batteries much.   You can see this in the discharge curve shown in the 
Eneloop data sheet:
www.eneloop.info/fileadmin/EDITORS/ENELOOP/DATA_SHEETS/Datasheet_-_HR-3UTG.pdf

(Sorry, I have not been able to find a datasheet on Rayovac rechargeable NiMH 
cells).

The voltage over the majority of the discharge curve is between 1.3 and 1.2 
volts per cell, or 10.4V and 9.6V for the 8 cell battery.  Once you get down 
below that 9.6V, you can see that the voltage drops off rapidly down to the 1v 
per cell level, or 8 volts for the battery.  That is roughly how you will see 
the voltage drop when operating.

By the way, a little study of the charge/discharge curves will help you 
understand what you are seeing on the KX3 voltage display during 
charge/discharge cycles.  


Kent briefly contributed his opinion that a wall wart would not be good for
charging the KX3 but did not give his reasons 

The output voltage of wall warts varies pretty wildly with load.  It is hard to 
really know if your particular wall wart would work well or not.  I don't 
really like to see voltages on the display higher than 15V (14V some places in 
the KX3 Owner's Manual), because that is the maximum Elecraft recommends; 
however, the radio does have excellent protection circuits so that may not be a 
problem.  There have been lots of cases of greater than 15V supplies applied 
to the KX3's, and I haven't heard of a failure yet.  The KX3 simply shuts down 
at about 16V.  Maybe others on the list have more experience with this.

In a later post you mentioned:
So the batteries were still quite
full and thus got warm soon and repeatedly.

I agree.  There are a lot of things going on during charging that generate 
heat, but in general, as the battery approaches full charge, less and less of 
the total power applied to the battery is used for the chemical change, and a 
larger percentage simply gets converted to heat by the internal resistance of 
the battery.  Try to charge a fully charged battery of cells, and the KX3 will 
get warm since there is no more chemical conversion going on, and all of the 
power delivered by the KXBC3 is converted to heat by the internal resistance of 
the cells.  In this case, the KXBC3 will cycle off occasionally keeping the 
temperature below 40deg C.  That is completely acceptable to 2000maH (or 
larger) cells since the current remains at about 200ma, and the temperature 
remains below 40 deg C, well within the manufacturers specs.
Bedtime.

Mark
KE6BB




 From: Arno Dienhart a...@broadweave.net
To: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net 
Sent: Thursday, June 6, 2013 8:08 PM
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] KX3 and charging batteries (when, and why do they get 
hot?)
 

Mark,



Thank you for this excellent response. This is exactly what I need: solid
advice with rationale behind it.



I checked a few things. All eight cells are now at 1.4V. When I turn the TRX
on, the integrated meter shows 10.5 V now. I think this morning, when I
checked after the full charge, it showed 11.6V. Not sure if that is a good
sign after only having it on for a bit, tinkering.



The BAT MIN was at the default setting of 10.0 V. I changed it to 8.5.



Kent briefly contributed his opinion that a wall wart would not be good for
charging the KX3 but did not give his reasons (I will not operate it off
that adapter). What is your opinion, particularly regarding the wall
charger's specs of 13 - 15.8V (@960mA). Is this peak voltage potentially too
high? Other than that, I fail to construe even one reason why this adapter
would not be fit to feed the 200mA charger or cause my heating issue.



Thanks a bunch!



73,

Arno

Kg7bjm









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Re: [Elecraft] KX3 and charging batteries (when, and why do they get hot?)

[Mark Petiford]

...must have halted more often over the course.
Is this normal?

Yes, with some concern.  The short answer is I suspect you have a bad cell.

The KXBC3 will attempt to keep the temperature at or below 40deg C, and sill 
suspend charging as required to allow cool down.  It is a bit troubling that 
you didn't get more out of the first discharge cycle.  It could be that they 
just sat on the shelf for a long time, but it could also be caused by a one or 
more defective cells.  A defective cell may generate heat when charging, 
causing the KXBC3 to suspend charging.  That can also happen with all good 
cells, but usually when ambient temperatures are high or during simultaneous 
transmission and charging.  


I recommend that you measure the cells' voltage individually.  I know, it is a 
pain to split the case, but you may not have to take them out to check them.  I 
haven't tried that.  Just be very careful with the probe if you don't.  When 
measured individually with a volt meter, they should all be within 0.1 volt or 
so of each other, and all of them should be above about 1v.  Any cells below 
0.9v should certainly be considered faulty.  If NiMH cells are run much below 
1.0v, they will most likely be damaged.  Any cells that have damage to their 
plastic case should be discarded as well.


A couple of weeks ago, I charged up a box of 14 used Energizer NiMH cells 
(2500maH) of unknown origin which had been given to me. I just checked them 
today, and 10 measured slightly higher than 1.3v each (excellent), one measured 
1.28v (fairly good), and 3 measured less than .9v (BAD).  Given this, 10 are 
good, 1 is a bit questionable but will probably level out with the others when 
charged a few times, and the 3 low voltages ones will be sent to the battery 
recycle bin.

Were the batteries still way too full when I started charging?
No.  The KXBC3 charges with a constant current of approximately 200ma.  At that 
current, you will not overcharge 2000aH (or larger) NiMH cells, and no damage 
will occur as long as the temperature is kept below 40deg C.  So even if they 
were completely full, you could charge them with the KXBC3 for the full 16 
hours without significant damage.  That doesn't mean you should keep them on 
charge all the time.  That would certainly shorten their life.  I think the 
KXBC3 documentation mentions something about that.


When should such batteries get charged, at what voltage level?
Don't let them go below 1v per cell...about 8 volts total on the KX3 
display...8.5V would be safer.  Elecraft recommends setting the BAT MIN menu to 
8.5 V (KX3 Owner's Manual Pg. 36) to give you some warning that you need to 
think about recharging.  This is about 1.06V per cell.  The KX3 will shut down 
at 8 V which is about 1V per cell, very near the absolute minimum for NiMH 
chemistry.  There isn't much energy left below 1.06v per cell, so running them 
below that level really doesn't give you much extra operating time.  Some folks 
set the BAT MIN to 9V to give them more warning and plenty of time to finish 
their QSO and shut the station down.

By the way, the NiMH cells do not need to be fully discharged before starting 
the charge cycle.  They do not have the strong memory that the older NiCad 
chemistry has.  They can be touched up as you feel they need it.


My Eneloope and Panisonic NiMH cells are very consistent, especially after 
several charges.  The voltage of NiMH cells tend to self level (equal voltage 
of all cells within the battery of 8) when charged with the KXBC3.  I don't 
have any personal experience with the Rayovac cells, but I think I recall that 
some folks had some problems with brand new ones right out of the box.  I 
suggest you check the voltages of the cells individually, and get rid of the 
ones that measure below 1v and replace them with new cells of the same 
brand/capacity.  Once you get a good set of cells, you will gain more 
confidence in them and in the KXBC3, and you will be able to tell where you are 
in their charge/discharge cycle by the KX3 displayed battery voltage.


Hope this helps.


Mark
KE6BB




 From: Arno Dienhart a...@broadweave.net
To: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net 
Sent: Thursday, June 6, 2013 4:12 PM
Subject: [Elecraft] KX3 and charging batteries (when, and why do they get hot?)
 

So I got a new, factory-assembled KX3 yesterday, with charger installed. 

I bought eight Rayovac Platinum NiMH 2000mA cells “ready to go”, inserted
them, and ran the radio on batteries for just a few minutes, when I got the
LO BATT message. So I started charging them, with timer on 12 hrs.



After about two hours, they had gotten over 40° and charging halted until
they had cooled down again. The next morning, charging was in its last 7
minutes, so it must have halted more often over the course.



Is this normal? Or is my ingoing voltage too high, coming from a wall wart
rated at 13-15.8V @ 960mA?

Are the batteries (or one/some of them) 

Re: [Elecraft] Red LED in KX3...

[Mark Petiford]

Robin,

It is normal.  Current draw from this very tiny low intensity LED is not 
significant.  This is what Fred, KE7X posted in the Yahoo KX3 group concerning 
the meaning of the flashes:


Here is what the KXBC3 LED blink patterns mean:
Low intensity single blink every 0.5 seconds.
The KX3 is shut off and the KXBC3 is in ultra low power “time keeping with 
alarm” mode. The KXBC3 is normally powered from internal batteries or an 
external power source (whichever has the higher voltage) but will 
continue to operate in this mode for at least 5 minutes (typically 20 
minutes) if the batteries are removed.
 
Bright single blink every 2.5 seconds.
The KX3 power is on and the KXBC3 is operating normally but is not charging the 
batteries.
 
Bright single blink every 0.75 seconds.
A charge cycle is in progress.
 
Bright triple blink every 2.5 seconds
A charge cycle is in progress but is currently suspended due to temperature or 
insufficient external supply voltage.
 
Morse ‘U” every 2.5 seconds.
A future firmware upgrade may allow a charge cycle to be in progress but 
with a low external supply voltage. The actual charge current will be 
less than the normal level.
 
Cheers and 73 all,Fred KE7X





 From: Robin rob...@mail.dk
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net 
Sent: Sunday, June 2, 2013 8:36 AM
Subject: [Elecraft] Red LED in KX3...
 

I can see a Red LED lit and blinking intermittantly inside the KX3 casing
(looking through the keyer hole). It is also lit when the radio is turned
off ... ? Is this normal.

thanks
Robin
OZ6ABM



--
View this message in context: 
http://elecraft.365791.n2.nabble.com/Red-LED-in-KX3-tp7574667.html
Sent from the Elecraft mailing list archive at Nabble.com.
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Re: [Elecraft] Kit or factory assembled K3? and Hard Part of Building a K3

[Mark Petiford]

Keith summed it up well.  Elecraft gives us a choice, and that is really cool!  
In reality, it probably takes more effort to offer a kit than a fully assembled 
radio...at least initially.  I am really glad Elecraft offers that choice.  As 
a retired engineer, my KX3 kit gave me a huge appreciation of the efforts of  
Elecraft's engineers in packaging everything into the final radio.  I can't 
speak to the K3, but I am really glad I my KX3 was a kit, but I understand it 
isn't for everyone.


Mark
KE6BB




 From: Keith Heimbold ag...@hotmail.com

Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Kit or factory assembled K3? and Hard Part of Building 
a K3
 

...Freedom of choice is way cool!

Keith
AK6ZZ
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