Re: [Elecraft] de W3TB and my KAT-500 question

[Rick Bates, nk7i]

Shutting down, as in power down?  Or cutting output (bad SWR)?

Check to make SURE that the K3 tuner is not online.  You do not want to 
cascade tuners (might be why it needs service?).
Check that you test into a dummy load, instead of the tuner/antenna.  
THAT is your baseline.


If it still doesn't produce 100 watts (when set for 100), into the dummy 
load, run through the calibration program (into the dummy load).


Please report your findings, to the list.

73,
Rick nk7i


On 5/6/2024 9:12 AM, Ted Edwards W3TB wrote:

I need to send my KAT-500 in for service, and I wrote to Elecraft Support
for information.

When I disconnected the KAT-500, here is some trouble that came up.
And then I reconnected it up and the trouble went away -- apart from what I
am getting it serviced for.
When disconnected, the K3 itself won't put out more than 35 watts without
shutting itself down.  Then it does fine when the KAT-500 is back in
service.  What's the good wisdom on what I need to do so that I can just
run the K3 at 100 watts while the tuner is away?  Yes, I can still get
enough power forward to drive the KAP-500 direct to antennas without the
tuner.

Thanks ahead of time for your good wisdom.


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Re: [Elecraft] Lightning concerns: Was: K4 Remote: My QTH vs. a friend's, many miles to the north

[Rick Bates, nk7i]

Asked, answered (no, there isn't a more robust device); it's up to the 
station owner/designer to protect the station, not a manufacturer.


Let's move on please.

Rick nk7i


On 5/5/2024 10:42 AM, Jorge Diez - CX6VM wrote:

hello

To finish with this topic, I was just wondering if a device that is
intended for use in remote stations, always connected and in some cases
with no one to disconnect during storms, could not have a better USB
connector, for example

If he tells me it can't be done, fine, my question has been answered and
thank you very much.

time to move on to other virtues of Elecraft

73,
Jorge
CX6VM/CW5W

El dom, 5 may 2024 a las 10:12, Mike Fatchett W0MU ()
escribió:


Lightning is like wildfires which burn some houses or land but not
others.  There is no rhyme or reason why some devices are not damaged
and other are.  I suspect that most items were damaged but not made
inoperable.

Couldn't the argument be made that the computer or USB hub should do
more and at what cost?

You are quite lucky that your entire shack was not destroyed.

I don't believe Elecraft should be blamed here, nor do I believe they
need to do anything.  There is no preponderance of data that shows the
Elecraft interface is more or less susceptible to this damage.

My power supplied failed and produced an over voltage situation which
damaged my K3.  It it the fault of the PS maker or Elecraft?

These situations are why many of us have Insurance that cover these
events.  This coverage could be a homeowners policy or policies similar
to the ARRL insurance program.  These coverage's may or may not be
available to everyone however.

W0MU


On 5/4/2024 10:57 PM, Rick NK7I wrote:

Thread subject changed to reflect the actual topic.

It is the station owner that is responsible for lightning protection
(or other environmental risks); not Elecraft or most any product
vendor of any type.  To require more, would cost more (for the
hardware and for the liability risk that the company would have to
endure).

The area/s missed in the protective system design, can be demonstrated
by a nearby or direct hit (induced voltages and current can be almost
as damaging); as you already found (and it's EASY to miss an entry
point, no blame intended).

The ARRL has a good amount of simplified how-to in the book "Grounding
and Bonding" but several readings may still be needed for
understanding the content.  There are other good resources (Motorola
has one, so does the cell phone industry; each is excellent but best
used to induce sleep, they are intense and technical and reference
various applicable laws).

It's not all about lightning but static dissipation as an energy
source.  That static source may also be dust, wind, snow, or rain
(yes, water).  Diverting that charge OUTSIDE the building (shack) to
GROUND is the basic plan but it must also include EVERY entry point
(cable TV, phone, DSL, antenna, rotor, control cables for antennas,
mast, satellite dishes and tower).

Using several ground rods as part of a system is common BUT they must
all be bonded to each other AND to the one common safety ground of the
building (US and other countries require this, by law).  Use of water
pipes is no longer code, in the US (because PEX and PVC are common,
defeating ability to take to ground).

 From your description Jorge, it sounds like you did it correctly, but
missed an entry point.  Now you'll have to replace parts, sadly.

Let's limit any more, to Elecraft specific topics.  This one has
wandered well afield of Elecraft.

73,
Rick nk7i


On 5/4/2024 9:21 PM, Jorge Diez - CX6VM wrote:

Hi Dave

I have a panel like yours, each antenna to a discharger, on a copper
sheet.
Nothing has happened with the coaxial and antenna switch

I have several rods that make the ground and a copper bar behind the
desk
and all the equipment is connected to the ground

The lighting came through the antenna of my internet link, then it
went to
the router, then to the computer where I have the kpa1500 connected
with a
USB cable

My question about whether Elecraft could do more is whether there
could be
something better than the USB it currently has, which seems to me to
be a
simple USB connector, like that of any printer for example.

So there is my question, if for such an expensive piece of equipment,
there
could be something of better quality, if not, I apologize, we will
have to
live with these things.

See you in the bands!!!

Have a good weekend!

73,
Jorge
CX6VM/CW5W

El dom, 5 may 2024 a las 1:08, Dave (NK7Z) () escribió:


Jorge,

I can only go by what you said:

"Last week I experienced a lightning strike"

That sounds a lot like a direct discharge into the shack, so I am
responding to your comment, if that is not correct, please help me
understand what actually happened...

Lightening is strange, it can take out one piece of equipment, and not
touch another...  It all depends on how your shack is grounded, and how
it is bonded.  When grounding commercial 

Re: [Elecraft] KX2 question

[Rick Bates, nk7i]

For such documents that I (might) need when not at the computer, I use 
Dropbox.  That way it's in several places at once, including on my phone 
(which is always with me).


It's free, up to small storage limits, adequate for that task. If I need 
to share something, I send the link (which if a large file, doesn't clog 
my LAN, once it's in the cloud).


73,
Rick nk7i


On 12/4/2023 1:54 PM, Chris wrote:

Thanks, Walter K6WRU:

That was indeed the document I was mis-remembering as one page...

But it describes how to get INTO the CW announce mode, but does not 
tell how to EXIT the mode.


I think I did a device reset to go back to turn CW announce OFF.

I also note that I appear to need a newer version of the manual that 
came with the radio. I downloaded the e-version, but my computer does 
not fit in my day-pack!


73,

Chris K0PF

On 12/4/2023 9:13 AM, Walter Underwood wrote:
This all-text document has a physical description and documents the 
audio-CW feedback.


https://ftp.elecraft.com/KX2/Mod Notes Alerts/KX2 CW UI, rev A3.pdf 



wunder
K6WRU
Walter Underwood
CM87wj
http://observer.wunderwood.org/ (my blog)


On Dec 4, 2023, at 8:03 AM, Chris  wrote:

I saw a one-page note on this but I cannot find it in my records. If 
I recall it is a mode of some sort that causes the CW Identifier, 
for handicapped hams, I think. I did a reset to clear it. Sorry for 
being vague, it has been a couple months, but maybe support can 
point you to that one-pager. It should be in the fw release notes, 
really...


73,

Chris,

K0PF

On 12/1/2023 9:59 AM, Bud wrote:

Folks …

I recently invoked the latest firmware update on my KX2 (s/n  1031).
Upon beginning use of the KX2 after the firmware update  two 
 changes to the operating configuration were noticed.


They are:

1)  Upon pressing any of the front panel push button switches, a CW 
identifier takes place.

  How do I delete this from happening?

2)  The “display” push button no longer displays the several 
functions it once did.
  What do I need to do to bring back the display functions when I 
push the “display” button?


Thanks for any help in this matter …

Bud,
NY1Z …




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Re: [Elecraft] KAT500?

[Rick Bates, nk7i]

Eugene,

The KAT500 will work with almost any radio made in the last 40 years (or 
somewhat older), presuming the rig has I/O data available. If it doesn't 
read the band data from the radio ( on it's ACC port), there are still 
plenty of ways to allow it to do what it needs to do.  The utility is 
one feature that allows finer control or management.  But the KAT500 is 
serial port only for control purposes.  It doesn't have an ethernet or 
wifi system.


The following presumes that you have a serial (or other) port on the 
radio for it's control and this answer may be longer than you expect.


In the longer run (larger picture as your station develops), you'll want 
more than control of your KAT500.  You'll want to be able to log, manage 
mode changes, band/freq changes (rig control), turn your rotor, switch 
antenna ports on the rig or KAT500 and myriad assorted other necessary 
items.  Not all of the pieces are IP control but require USB or serial 
ports, like the KAT500.


You'll find that it's all much simpler to dedicate a computer (from 
Raspberry Pi, Arduino up to a full fledged top line gaming system) to 
manage the station tasks, hardware and software; even if you're sitting 
there able to mash buttons.  Simple just ROCKS and lowers the ... 
moments when things get busy or distracted and the brain makes mistakes 
(it protects you, a little).


I did that (ALL station elements managed) and it runs quite easily.  
Then I ran the station equally as well, by operating the computer that 
runs the station, remotely.  Two factors present a challenge, an 
adequate audio path for phone/cw, and latency (the time it takes to get 
from the radio to your ears, ad vice versa, no matter the path).  
(Remote can be across the room or anywhere with internet.)


I chose and use TeamViewer for computer control and Skype for audio.  
(Like most hams, I'm cheap and those apps are free and available on many 
platforms which gives a LOT of options from phone, tablet or another 
computer.)  Plus your contact log entries are (correctly) from the 
station, not where you happen to be. I've run my stations while 
traveling much of NA and HI while on road trips and it's still fun and a 
great way to keep in touch with the local gang.


Depending on the OS of your choice, there are many options to choose 
from.  Windows has FAR more options for the moment, the rig control app 
of your choice, a good logging program (integrated suites do much of 
these), KAT500 utility (check/verify readings and override choices if 
more than one antenna), amp control if you have one (KPA500 or KPA1500 
utility apps), rotor and antenna management (PSTrotator with the SteppIR 
functions) and if you want, an IP power switch for shutting it all down 
and/or rebooting. (A remote power on for the K3 or K4, when off, they 
are OFF.)


If you are a knob turner ham or a mouse clicker (or both), running the 
station is much easier when you integrate all of the aspects on one 
screen.  It allows quicker band changes (QSY and everything follows 
along) and a wealth of information on the screen, as well as the 
hardware displays.  You watch ONE place (the display), less movement 
required (except your eyes).


Wanna make a couple quick contacts from work during your lunch break or 
while visiting family for the holidays?  Now you know how.


Only have a tiny closet for the actual station hardware but no where to 
put the operating chair?  Now you can operate it remotely (be careful 
about heat removal in this case).


For now, you're working on the KAT500 with the utility; expand beyond 
that over time and integrate everything.  That means look at what you 
want the station to accomplish for you.  Wise choices now makes it 
simpler later as you integrate more.


And the answer to your question is yes, you'll want something to manage 
the KAT500 app, all the time.  But it must be via it's serial port.


Think bigger, go beyond.

73,
Rick nk7i



On 11/20/2023 5:24 PM, W2HX wrote:

Ok, I've done some homework and have a good understanding of the KAT500 and the 
KAT Utility which seems to have all the functions I am looking for.

Next question. If I want to control the KAT500 over ethernet, my understanding 
is I need to use the Remote server and client applications. However, it seems 
the remote client application seems to not have the full functionality of the 
KAT Utility program. Does anyone know if the full functionality of the Utility 
program can be available in a remote situation? Or is there where I veer into 
the note-red territory?


73 Eugene W2HX
Subscribe to my Youtube Channel:https://www.youtube.com/@w2hx/videos

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Re: [Elecraft] OT: The day I found out I was going to be an engineer

[Rick Bates, NK7I]

Satin, crinkle black...  Or flat two tone green a la Heathkit.

Rick nk7i


On 9/16/2023 8:00 AM, Mike Morrow wrote:

How long before you painted it flat black? :-)

Mike / KK5F

-Original Message-
From: Wayne Burdick
Sent: Sep 15, 2023 7:33 PM

I was 8 years old. My dad had bought me a Radio Shack Science Fair 8-Note 
Electronic Organ kit for Christmas, along with a soldering iron.

That night I built the kit, finishing at something like 11 PM, which was 
unheard of.
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Re: [Elecraft] Very late to the party - computer rig control and sound card modes for K3

[Rick Bates, NK7I]

PLEASE PLEASE PLEASE make SURE that you do not allow OS sounds at ALL, 
since you're using the internal sound card.


There are MANY that already send beeps, tones, phone audio and more on 
the bands because they didn't get a sound card for the radio/s.  
(They're CHEAP, just get one that is known to work.)  Then they wonder 
why they don't get contacts with the digital mode they're using.


73,
Rick nk7i

On 8/9/2023 4:35 AM, Paul Barlow wrote:

Dear Elecrafters,

Less than a month ago I asked a question about computer rig control, computer 
logging and sound interfaces for soundcard modes. Thanks to the people who took 
the time to reply and gave me helpful advice.

All is now connected in the EI5KI shack, I bought a refurbed Windows 10 laptop 
and set it up to talk my K3 using the USB to RS232 interface I'd had since I 
bought it with the K3. I now have communication between the rig and the logging 
software (Log4OM). I've also installed WSJT-X and I'm using FT8 and FT4 with 
some success. In the end I settled for a cable to break out the combined 
microphone/ headphone jack on the Laptop and two cables from that to the line 
in/line out on the K3. I did try a USB sound card (an Asus Xonar U5), but it 
won't talk to the laptop - this seems to be a known problem with Windows 10.

So, once again, thanks for the advice and encouragement.

73,

Paul EI5KI
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Re: [Elecraft] question K3 digital duty cycle power FT8

[Rick Bates, NK7I]

13 seconds of transmit, 17 seconds of receive = 43% duty cycle.

I use (rarely) less than 100 watts, all the way up to band legal limit.  
With a K3, don't worry about it.  IF the cooling become inadequate due 
to local environment, it'll reduce output to protect itself.


73,
Rick nk7i


On 5/21/2023 12:43 PM, AB2E Darrell wrote:

Hi all,
I'm leaving for VP9 on Wed, and taking my trusty K3.
A little time will be devoted to FT8 so my question is what is the duty cycle 
for running FT8 on K3?
I've read a couple old posts about PSK, so I'm wondering what the group is 
doing.
How much power out are you running the K3 on FT8 without overheating etc?

73
Darrell AB2E (portable VP9 from 24-29May)
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Re: [Elecraft] Keying the K3s

[Rick Bates, NK7I]

Running exactly at 5.0 watts or 50 watts setting CAN cause a change in 
the TX GAIN setting on a K3(s).  That is the setting that can trigger 
the calibration algorithm; which if not connected to a dummy load, can 
be 'wrong' (causing problems).


The K4 has a menu item to en/disable changes in this setting, the K3(s) 
does not.


This is confirmed by Elecraft repair folks (on the groups.io list for 
the K3) and possibly here on qth.net.


Running at 4.9/5.1 or 49/51 watts output is HIGHLY recommended if that 
is the output neighborhood that is wanted.


Not every detail is in the manual (of which many updates have been made 
over the years) and not every firmware comment has been folded into the 
manual either.  So you look at the firmware comments AND the latest 
manual(s); then the email list_*S*_ for a complete answer.


73,
Rick nk7i


On 1/24/2023 10:21 AM, j...@kk9a.com wrote:

I do not believe that 5 and 50 watts cause issues on the K3S.  I do not
recall seeing this in th manual and I have never had an issue doing it.

You can search Elecraft archives here:
https://www.mail-archive.com/elecraft@mailman.qth.net/maillist.html

John KK9A




Lee Hiers AA4GA wrote:

How would one search the archives for this info?

Is this only the K3S, or does it also include K3?  How about a K3/10?

And you're saying one should never transmit with the transmitter set to 5W
(or 50W)?

I do drive an Alpha 8410 with my K3/10 -  and I've probably done so at 5W
out of the K3/10, although normally I'm using 12W.

I would appreciate a link to something that indicates this is a bad thing
to do.

73 de Lee, AA4GA

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Re: [Elecraft] Keying the K3s

[Rick Bates, NK7I]

Here is one place (QTH.net is not the only Elecraft list):

https://groups.io/g/Elecraft-K3/message/37177?p=%2C%2C%2C20%2C0%2C0%2C0%3A%3Acreated%2C0%2Ctx+gain%2C20%2C2%2C0%2C92585600

73,
Rick nk7i


On 1/24/2023 9:31 AM, Lee Hiers wrote:

Searching what?  The only archives I see are listed by month, with no place
to enter a search - that's my search issue!

73 de Lee



On Tue, Jan 24, 2023 at 12:26 PM Jim McCook  wrote:


Lee, just try searching with keywords, such as TX GAIN, K3 power spikes,
TX GAIN Calibration, etc. etc.  The best thing you can do, if you're not
convinced transmitting at 5 or 50w is a risk, is ask Elecraft.  K6XX,
who designed the KPA1500, was the first to tell me about this.  Keith,
who services the K3 and K3s, confirmed it multiple times on this
reflector.  Ask someone at Elecraft.73,Jim
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Re: [Elecraft] KPA500 Voltage?

[Rick Bates, NK7I]

Too high at THEIR location.

Power company feeds, vary (not a lot but their load changes, they adjust).

House wiring varies and other devices on that circuit can cause other 
variations too.  Older homes (1950's and older) often have less capacity 
than newer homes (didn't need it then).  Today we use a LOT more energy 
than then; some house circuits are no longer 'adequate' (causing fires 
in some cases because folks abuse the wiring in ignorance).


Part of station set up and operations, is knowing what the circuit(s) of 
the house wiring, is connected to besides the station.  Fridge, washer, 
HVAC, electric oven shared with the station?


If you need one more tap to get within the right voltage window, use one 
more tap to achieve that.  If you change circuits, remeasure.  And if on 
the same circuit, maybe don't run the washing machine or oven at the 
same time as the amp. ;-)


73,
Rick nk7i


On 11/14/2022 6:38 AM, Lyn Norstad wrote:

Gordon -

I had mine set up, as Rick suggests - but when it was in for service, they 
dropped it back a notch saying it was too high.

My readings now agree with yours.

73
Lyn, WØLEN


-Original Message-
From:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net  
[mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of Rick NK7I
Sent: Saturday, November 12, 2022 1:03 PM
To:elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] KPA500 Voltage?

I'd move it up one tap as long as it does NOT EXCEED 85V at receive.

Higher voltage not only gives you better output but also cleaner.  That
matters too.

73,
Rick nk7i


On 11/12/2022 10:25 AM, Gordon LaPoint wrote:

My KPA500 is showing 57-58 VDC at 450-500 watts out, and 71-72 VDC on rx.

Is this normal or should I move up one tap?

Thanks,

Gordon - N1MGO


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Re: [Elecraft] KAT500 frequency memories question

[Rick Bates, NK7I]

It is, here.  The device being commented on, should be part of the 
header when a thread is started so folks can read it or skip it.


But it's MUCH nicer to have separate groups for each item.  One may not 
have a KX2, KAT500 or other Elecraft device and the often numerous and 
ponderously long threads can add up to a LOT of email to be deleted.


Being a member of the specific device lists, limits that and the email 
noise floor.  Being on a targeted list improves the chances of getting 
an accurate answer or solution.


Having a varied interest in many things, I get a low of 50 emails a day, 
sometimes peaking near 300 per day or more.  By limiting to the specific 
groups of interest I find I can manage it better and when it gets too 
noisy on a topic, I can drop out of that thread (if the list is on 
groups.io, most of mine are).  Thankfully the lists don't 'blow up' 
often so the daily average is under 100 most times.


Almost ALL of them are quickly deleted, less than 5% are answered and 
under 1% get saved for future reference (that's what archive diving is 
all about).


73,
Rick nk7i


On 10/2/2022 12:38 PM, j...@kk9a.com wrote:

It would be so nice if everything Elecraft related was in a single list.

John KK9A

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Re: [Elecraft] Friedrichshafen

[Rick Bates, NK7I]

Or making amends...

May be an image of 4 people, people standing and text that says 'Flex 
6700 FlexRadio FlexRadio'



73,
Rick NK7I

On 6/27/2022 10:23 AM, Stephen Craven wrote:

Good time, now for sight seeing !!

Steve N9SC

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Re: [Elecraft] Kenwood MC-60 Mic with a K3?

[Rick Bates, NK7I]

Or leave everything as it was made, with no adapter, no modification; 
put a battery into the base of the MC-60A, turn the mic pre-amp on (in) 
and set the K3/K4 as needed with no bias.


The battery lasts for years; it's fast and simple to set up the radio or 
replace a battery.  And you never have to remember what was done to the 
mic (because nothing was). Simplest is often best.


73,
Rick NK7I


On 5/17/2022 1:53 PM, Ken Winterling wrote:

Option "D")  Make an adapter that swaps the leads so you can use the
unmodified MC-60 on the Elecraft.

I prefer to make adapters for my rigs so I can use (almost) any mic I have
on (almost) any rig I have.

73,

*Ken*
*WA2LBI*




On Tue, May 17, 2022 at 4:46 PM Joe Subich, W4TV  wrote:


On 2022-05-17 1:19 PM, Eric Fitzgerald wrote:
  >
  > Can you use a Kenwood MC-60 desktop mic with an Elecraft K3?

If you have an MC-60 (not MC-60A), you can use it "as is".  The
only difference is that Elecraft and Kenwood reverse pins 5 and 6.
Pin 5 is +8V for Kenwood, Pin 6 is +5V for Elecraft.

If you have the "non 'A'" version of the MC-50 or MC-60, pins 5
and 6 are not used.  If you have the "A" versions pin 5 is used
to power the preamp in the base of the mic.  If you have the "A"
versions you will need to do one of the following:
   A) swap pins 5/6 in the Foster plug on one end of the coiled cord
   B) move the wire from pin 5 to pin 6 on the 8 pin jack where the
  coiled cord (PG-4C) connects on the base of the mic
   C) leave the preamplifier (mic amp) switch in the "out" position.

73,

 ... Joe, W4TV


On 2022-05-17 1:19 PM, Eric Fitzgerald wrote:

Hello Wise and Powerful Reflector;

Can you use a Kenwood MC-60 desktop mic with an Elecraft K3?  I seem to
recall the front panel jack is the same pin configuration as a Kenwood.

TIA

Eric KG6MZS

www.kg6mzs.com


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Re: [Elecraft] PayPal holding payment. (Follow up)

[Rick Bates, NK7I]

I use a major company (Visa/AmEx/MC) credit card as my PayPal go to 
'bank' for the PayPal account.


That way I get the ease and means to buy with PayPal (and not go get my 
wallet to dig out the card) when other means are not available (or 
shuffle funds to individuals as needed).  PayPal immediately hits the 
credit card but if there is a conflict I file the complaint with PayPal 
first, then immediately with the credit card company to refuse the charge.


This has worked very well the few times I had issues with an order(about 
once every 3-4 years).  The CC company does an immediate refund to my 
account, while investigating and I let the two of them duke it out.  The 
might (and lawyers) of the CC company is much more power than any 
individual can muster, PayPal usually 'expedites' their efforts to 
resolve the issue.  In the meantime, I have my spending power returned.


There is no hit to the credit rating, you are using the (local, state, 
Fed and international) law and the CC company policies, in your favor 
(PayPal can whine, but they have no power).


This method means the end buyer (us) has less to worry about.

PayPal will cry foul (but wait!  We'll fix this!) if you tell them 
you're refusing the charge.  They have no useful legal recourse if you 
made the charge in good faith and they won't take the time (spend money 
on lawyers) to argue. Their only recourse is to close your PayPal 
account, but that requires 'cause' (or they run afoul of the CC laws).


So don't tell them and be more careful when you use PayPal.  They are 
bound by the same CC laws but expect the buyer to be ignorant of that. 
Become an informed consumer; use the CC protection laws, in your favor 
when there is an issue.


Now if someone could explain (and make sense of) why it takes moments to 
make a charge, but 8-10 working days (weeks) to reverse that charge 
using the same network system; they'd be a hero.  It simply defies logic.


73,
Rick NK7I


On 5/8/2022 7:17 AM, George Thornton wrote:

I had a situation with a frankly fraudulent internet vendor that was claiming 
discount prices on a name brand product.  The web page looked identical to the 
official company in design and appeared to be an outlet for the company.

I placed a small order as a test but then changed my mind within an hour after 
reading up on problems.  I tried to cancel the order with the company but of 
course they did not respond and claimed to have shipped.  I of course never got 
anything.

I went to Paypal who of course paid the company.  I kept crying fraud and after 
a couple months of back and forth nonsense and my persistence they finally 
refunded.

I agree Paypal offers no protection for the most blatantly fraudulent 
transactions.  They are almost complicit in the fraud from their side because 
they could easily see a pattern of activity

Their own inaction under these circumstances almost makes them complicit in the 
fraud itself.


-Original Message-
From:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.netOn 
Behalf Of Frank Krozel
Sent: Sunday, May 8, 2022 4:55 AM
To: David Deelstra
Cc:elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] PayPal holding payment. (Follow up)

And don't be surprised when you get a 1099 from PayPal!
-73-  FrankKG9H
kg9hfr...@gmail.com





On May 7, 2022, at 10:23 PM, David Deelstra  wrote:

After a rabbit hole trip through PayPal's endless loop "customer service" pages, I stumbled on a 
page that asked what help I needed. I kept entering "Notice of Delivery". When it ran out of 
questions and options, finally I was presented with a page with a 6 digit number on a black background, below 
which was a phone number. I called, got instructions on what to do, spent the next ten minutes listening to 
the pages (verbatim) I had spent the last three hours digging through. Finally I was asked for the six digit 
pass code then sat through another eternity on hold finally answered by a human sounding voice. I explained 
that I had been trying to find a way to send them Proof of Delivery. She said PayPal already had POD and that 
my buyer only had to log in to his account, go to Activity, scroll down to the item and click to release 
payment. None of this was transmitted to me or the buyer by PayPal or shown on their "Help" pages.
I contacted the buyer, he followed up, and within minutes the subject "Your money is 
available" appeared in my in box.
I hope this helps others avoid similar problems. I intend to call my credit 
union's customer service and see what I can do to (legally and safely, for both 
parties) transfer funds for goods and services. Maybe VISA would be willing to 
offer such a service, or the shipping companies? How 'bout it UPS?

73, Dave N7ISH

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Re: [Elecraft] Elecraft Service

[Rick Bates, NK7I]

One simple question (with no implied or stated answer):

What would make a K3 a poor choice now, compared to other (used) brands?

It still works better than many (most) other brands, the only real risks 
are lack of parts when repairs are needed, as with any other brand and 
no more updates (which only a FEW brands offer at all, if ever).


With the jump to the K4, some K3 are available for sale and STILL sold 
within minutes to hours of posting.


The question is simple; the answer is personal and complex.

73,
Rick NK7I
K3, P3, KPA500, K4, KPA1500 (and Kenwood, Icom, others)



On 4/21/2022 10:33 AM, Bill Davis via Elecraft wrote:

  This is my first post since I became an Elecraft owner back in 2009. I made the move to 
Elecraft after visiting with Gene Zimmerman the then QST VHF editor at the Elk Grove IL 
Central States VHF convention. Gene was a friend and was "over the moon" with 
his K3 and I had been looking for several months. I liked that it was American made, 
plugin boards that should assist in making the radio more maintainable and the history of 
the company. Then there was the performance! K3 SR #3460 arrived shortly after that 
followed some years later by K3s SR#10644.
   I have been a ham for 63years and was very late joining into the solid state 
world when it came to my ham gear. I had a TS-700 from Kenwood that was solid 
as a brick! That rig is 46years old and still works like the first day it was 
purchased back in 1976. I bought my first Icom in 1991 followed over the years 
by 3 other Icoms rigs. Every single Icom I ever had , had issues. Always 
fixable except for a mysterious 2m SSB distortion issue in a IC-746Pro that 
haunted me from the first 2m SSB QSO I had with it to when I gave up on it 9yrs 
later.
   I was convinced that Elecraft was "THE ANSWER". How naïve I was. I expected a longer run for the 
K3 in years and the same with the K3s. Software upgradeable, never obsolete, a "new" radio every 
update! But technology marched on and "everyone" wanted the latest bells and whistles even if the 
bottom line performance improvements were minimal.
    How can we be to a point where a $4,000 radio should be considered a toss 
and replace? Do the K3 and K3s really contain components that are truly 
unobtainable? If that is the case, why would we expect the K4 to be any more 
maintainable? Did Icom, Kenwood and the rest stockpile more of the non-run of 
the mill components where they could be more maintained for a longer period of 
time?
    IF SOMEWHERE the parts are out there, it looks to me like an independent shop 
repairing Elecraft gear could fly. It sounds like depending upon Elecraft to keep us on 
the air is close to a thing of the past. Looking at my Elecraft "investments", 
much smaller than many, that is a very hard pill to swallow.
73  Bill K0AWU (Weak signal VHF and above for 63 years)
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Re: [Elecraft] KPA500 Issue

[Rick Bates, NK7I]

It does.  But you HAVE to remember to send a dit on each band change so 
the amp knows where you are.


73,
Rick NK7I


On 4/1/2022 8:46 AM, Frank Scolaro wrote:

Jim,.
  
I use the "1A2R" (one amp tw0 radios) from 4O4A.  I have two rigs share my KPA1500.  However, if the rigs are on different bands, you do need to rely on frequency sensing by the amp.  Not sure if the KPA500 does that.
  
GL

Frank, W2YK

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Re: [Elecraft] KPA500 faults

[Rick Bates, NK7I]

As I recall, when I got one of the first KPA500 kits available, it was 
also important to note the HV under load... I'd have to dig through 
ancient notes to see what the allowed window should be... or it may be 
in the manual.


That points to the usable power of the house supply circuit; more so in 
old wiring that might not be adequate for such a load (you don't share 
that circuit with a microwave oven).


Mine was borderline, sagged to the low end of that range, on the middle 
post (in a newish home).  When moved to another tap to increase the 
voltage; was still in the 'ok' range for unloaded voltage (it CAN be too 
high).


A little testing and experimentation is needed in setup of the amp; and 
at any new location.


Mine didn't fault in the sag, my goal was a cleaner output with the 
higher voltage while keeping in that window.


73,
Rick NK7I



On 3/2/2022 10:39 PM, Jim Brown wrote:

On 3/2/2022 9:38 PM, Dr. William J. Schmidt wrote:

I have a KPA500 that faults on low (60 VDC) voltage.


Hi Bill,

It MIGHT be faulting because the HV is too low. It's an un-regulated 
supply, so if line voltage is low, HV will be low. There's a jumper to 
re-tap the power transformer, accessible with the top off, details in 
the manual. We used to run into that when running two K3/KPA500 
stations on the same 2kVA Honda on county expeditions for 7QP and CQP.


73, Jim K9YC

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Re: [Elecraft] Need help with kat500 utility

[Rick Bates, NK7I]

Let's start with the basic facts.

Rig --> amp --> KAT500 --> antenna/s (with the tuner blocking the amp 
key in while tuning).


1)  The KAT500 was working successfully 'for years' without issue.
2)  There was a sudden change in operation.

This doesn't necessarily mean it was the tuner; it more likely means 
that something in your antenna system has changed or failed (a rope or 
wire, the feed etc).  Start there (use an antenna analyzer to see what 
is different).  Take a look at ALL of that system (loose connector?).


Caps on either side, depends on the antenna load presented to the tuner; 
high or low impedance load (grossly simplified).


Key interrupt should be used for an amp, so you don't put too high a 
stress (mostly on the amp) during the tuning process, causing damage.


Likewise attenuator kicks in when you overdrive the tuner input, prior 
to a fault if it doesn't change.


At least this is my understanding, subject to confirmation/denial.

GL es 73,
Rick NK7I


On 2/23/2022 1:48 PM, Richard Donner wrote:

I  have some question about the operate tab in the kat500 utility.
In the "others"  what should be checked off?
"caps on the Ant side"
"amp key interrupt"
"attenuator"
   Not sure what these things do.

I had been using my kat500 for years and all of a sudden low SWR  matches
could not be found on one of my antennas.   It was odd because everything
was fine yesterday.
I found by checking "caps on the Ant side"  Ii could get a match in manual
mode.
  I wonder if that had been checked and all of a sudden it stopped being
checked?

Also I wonder if the"amp key interrupt "  was ever set properly.
How should it be set with a KPA500 amplifier all cabled up.
I did not see a simple explanation what these kat500 setting are for.

Any help would be appreciated.  I think I am going for a walk
Thanks   Richard wa6kyr
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Re: [Elecraft] K4 to KPA500?

[Rick Bates, NK7I]

Which antenna port on the KPA1500 are you using? Port 2 is disconnected 
at power off.


That's one small nit with the amp, the antenna switch and tuner are on 
the same power source as the amp; all or nothing.  It takes getting used 
to, after being familiar with the KPA500/KAT500 combo.


73,
Rick NK7I

On 2/22/2022 7:13 AM, Dave wrote:

Bob

There has been a thread on the K4 groups.io on this subject. There is much
more info concerning the K4 on there. While mine works correctly, some
don’t. I think a pin needs cutting off, you might check with a breakout box.

73 Dave G4AON

On Tue, 22 Feb 2022 at 14:53, Robert Sands  wrote:


My old cable, used with K3 and KPA500 works fine with K4 to KPA 1500
except the K4 receive is shut down when 1500 in off, regardless of cable or
use of interruptor. Ideas?

Happens Only on 40 and 75, not 20. No receive until 1500 is on. I also
tried the new cable.
Bob
K7VO

On Tue, Feb 22, 2022, 5:27 AM Dave  wrote:


No difference between using the K3 and K4. I use the same interconnection
cable that I used for the K3.

The K4 shows the power level against the power control knob as appropriate
when you go from standby to operate.

Power setting/control with the K4 and KPA500 is well controlled.

73 Dave
K4D #286
KPA500



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Re: [Elecraft] K3 Auto ATU Problem

[Rick Bates, NK7I]

The KAT3, KAT500, KPA1500 tuners, all have the same feature.  I have all 
three.


If you want a finer (lower SWR) value, within a few seconds of the first 
tuning cycle stopping, start the sequence a second time and the tuner 
will cycle through ALL possible settings to attempt a lower match.  It 
may/not make a difference.


I would also, at this point, seek out an antenna analyzer to see what 
data could be gleaned from that; perhaps a cable, connector or other 
antenna system element (anything beyond the tuner, even IN the radio) is 
no longer valid.  Tuning into a KNOWN 50 ohm dummy load may show 
something interesting as well.


Again, setting CONFIG | TUN to 10 (watts), should help resolve your 
issue, 5 watts is a touch low.  If it does not, you may have a failed 
component (or relay) in the tuner.


If you can, try to eliminate the possibilities (antenna, feed, 
connectors) to find out what failed/changed; narrow the search.  (Does 
another radio tune the antenna easily, EVERY time?)


73,
Rick NK7I

On 12/7/2021 3:13 PM, Fred Jensen wrote:
The KAT500 will enter a fine-tune mode if you re-initiate a tune cycle 
right after the first one has finished.  I don't know if the KAT3 will 
do that, and I can't test it because mine always finds the primary 
match the first time, but Elecraft would have a lot of incentive to 
reuse KAT3 algorithms and code in the KAT500.  I believe the Elecraft 
tuners use some variant of the steepest descent algorithm which can 
hang up on a less than optimal solution


73,

Fred ["Skip"] K6DGW
Sparks NV DM09dn
Washoe County

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Re: [Elecraft] K3 Auto ATU Problem

[Rick Bates, NK7I]

The KAT3 performs well at 10 watts, lower output levels may not get 
consistent results.


Ditto the KAT500 and KPA1500 tuners.

73,
Rick NK7I


On 12/4/2021 8:58 AM, Dave wrote:

Hi Tom,

In your initial post, you failed to state the power level of your 
failed autotune event.


Hence why my question did not ask what the tuning level needed for the 
K3 to trigger was, but at what power level you were performing your 
failed autotuning event at.


My thinking was that you might be below the auto tune trigger threshold.

73, and thanks,
Dave (NK7Z)
https://www.nk7z.net
ARRL Volunteer Examiner
ARRL Technical Specialist, RFI
ARRL Asst. Director, NW Division, Technical Resources

On 12/4/21 07:56, Tom Boucher wrote:

Dave (NK7Z),

The K3 performs its auto-tune sequence at a power output of 5 watts I
believe.

73,
Tom G3OLB
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Re: [Elecraft] Legal Limit With FT8

[Rick Bates, NK7I]

On phone or CW, it's a dog fight and power (and antenna gain) often 
reigns supreme.  That's the reality.  Get heard, get worked, get out.  
The JT modes bring something new to the playing field; making it more 
'level'.


For many, it's not about the distance or miles/km per watt.  That is 
determined by the magic of radio conditions.  QRP into a light bulb 
filament (not LED), may work stations during the really good cycle peaks 
while in the doldrums one must use a lot more to make the contact.


As Jim rightly says; it's ALL about noise, but keeping your local noises 
to a minimum is only half the equation.  Expanding what he says, when it 
comes to working DXpeditions (taking the latest groups in AF as an 
example), the antennas are not optimal (because they are hauled in/out, 
not on 30 meter high towers with proper grounding, not a permanent 
installation but lashed up); their local site is rarely optimally placed 
(a hotel or beach), the noise floors are frequently very high 
(thunderstorms add more exciting noise) and the power grid is also noisy 
(and intermittent) in some areas. Their output levels are variable due 
to ability or local laws, often not 'generous'.


The end result is that the calling station, generally has ZERO clue 
about conditions at the other end.  One can watch the DX to see the 
reports given and get a sense of their hearing ability (or lack) for 
known big guns being worked; but until the actual contact is made and a 
real report (life isn't always 59) given, one doesn't really KNOW that 
the power was excessive; then it's over.  What YOU hear is not what THEY 
hear; compare equally built stations but pay attention to the NOISE floors.


In some cases, one must surf the waves of QSB too; timing is critical in 
any mode.


Sadly, this is true even on permanent stations, i.e. one on Guam that 
transmits a GREAT 100 watt signal but the noise floor is so high that 
those calling MUST run much higher power to be heard.  Often, it's not 
possible.


However, JT modes also allow those with less than optimal (flea power, 
string antennas) stations to participate more often.  Perhaps not to 
work the rarest of DX, but they're 'in the game' enjoying the hobby.  
That's a HUGE benefit.


Rarely, the reverse is true.  Working the Antarctic stations with their 
noise floor at MDS, their reports are often better than most stations 
calling (I was so shocked that it worked with a meager wire antenna and 
100 watts on 60M [legal EIRP limit in the US], I tried for an 'insurance 
dupe' at half the power just to verify, got it too).  In that case, they 
had to overcome MY local noise, which is pretty good in the rural zone 
I'm in (the same worked on CW too and they weren't loud).  [K3's at both 
ends, HAD to help at least a little.  ;-) ]


Don't sweat the output power of others but pay attention to your 
station.  High output doesn't help work stations faster in JT modes 
(which can even be set to ignore loud stations in DX mode) and it 
doesn't usually cause an issue IF it's a cleanly transmitting station 
(KEY POINT), even when on the same tones as others (I've seen two 
station on exactly the same tones get decoded, one +4 and the other -18 
dB, the JT modes are magical).


My general rule is to base my output power on the signal level I 
receive, with a sense of their local conditions (based on their 
reports).  If that doesn't work, double the output power (add 3 dB) and 
try again (repeat as needed).  Generally, that works out but not always 
if the DX is in a noisy place.


In a perfect world of no noise, we could all work each other at QRPp 
levels.  Reality is much harsher.


Lower YOUR noise floor and keep YOUR station clean to cause no harm; let 
the other stations do the same.


73,
Rick NK7I




On 11/11/2021 7:17 AM, Lyn Norstad wrote:

Richard -

As of today, I have worked 40 stations in VK6-land ... the farthest land
mass area, for me, on Earth.

This is with 50 watts (or less) FT8, mostly on 40 meters, mostly 0800 - 1300
UTC and, basically, an oversized dipole at about 35 feet (actually a 3.5 MHz
EDZ - but that's another story).

Included in that bunch is THE station that appears to be the furthest from
me located on land (a MM in the South Indian Ocean might be farther, maybe).

I gave him a -15, and he gave me a -07.  QRZ distance, 11,026 miles.

73
Lyn, W0LEN

-Original Message-
From:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net
[mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of Richard
Sent: Thursday, November 11, 2021 7:17 AM
To: Elecraft Mailing List
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Legal Limit With FT8

There's a major jerk who lives within about 20 miles of me who runs BIG
power with FT8. When he's on the air, he blots out my K3S so his is the only
signal on the waterfall, the only signal the decoder sees. When his BIG
POWER is on the air, I can't be. And he's made it clear that he doesn't care
what he does to anyone else's enjoyment. Power for power's sake is
contagious.

Re: [Elecraft] HOA Crap

[Rick Bates, NK7I]

No!

Rent a station is NOT ham radio.  Argue all you want; but ham radio is 
about RADIO, even if it's just owning and using an HT because that's all 
you can manage.


You may as well log cell or Skype phone calls or EchoLink contacts (or 
IRLP, DMR, DStar etc) as use remote stations that are not yours; they 
have equal merit; none, zilch, nada, nil.  Only a few even have a radio 
involved; the rest is internet links; not ham radio.


EVERY entry in my log is from MY gear, a station assembled by ME 
(sometime with help building etc), a result of MY best efforts at THAT 
point in time.  It's a matter of pride and is a moral imperative to my 
standards.  Yes, it means I don't make EVERY contact or work every DX 
when I want; I have to wait for propagation, then hope I've done 
enough.  Yes, I've put money into equipment to own, use and maintain; 
not someone else's pocket to rent.  But I EARNED every log entry.


I pity you some; you've lost your compass.  Yes, you can get DXCC in an 
afternoon, moving sites to best apply propagation <>.  It's NOT 
your station, it's not worthy of your log; it has no value, because you 
purchased your log and awards instead of investing your time and 
efforts. It's your ego being stroked by your wallet.


Ditto using remote receivers to augment your own; your station can or 
cannot; it's THAT simple.


You have ZERO emergency preparedness without a radio; one of the tenets 
of ham radio.  You can't be prepared if you don't own a radio; if the 
systems are down, you have nothing.  An HT can at least saturate the 
neighborhood to check on others around you.


If you are so HOA bound that nothing outside can grow as an antenna (has 
NEVER been totally exclusive; stealthy has a market); build a club 
station where you can; drive there to operate it and log from that.  If 
it is an emergency and there IS still access, then use the remote if you 
have nothing else.  At least own and learn to use a portable radio (KX3, 
dual band HT, SOMETHING).


Yes, I operate a station remotely; MINE.  And if done well, no one knows 
where you really are at the time of the contact.


But you won't ever sell me that not owning a radio at all and to rent 
and operate remotely is even CLOSE to being a ham.  For pity's sake, 
hand the man an HT!


Harsh, perhaps.  But it's also one reason to escape the blasted HOA 
world too to make your own decisions. HOA is an infestation, a virus 
that allows others to make choices for you, even if you don't like their 
decisions.


/rant off; hot button; this arena gets old fast/

73,
Rick NK7I
More curmudgeonly every year it seems, ain't nuttin wrong with old 
school, it's just not as popular




On 6/28/2021 8:41 PM, William Levy wrote:

Gents,

Let me remind all of you in an HOA that you don't need to put up antennas.
You can join remote ham radio dot com and use giant antennas all from your
website. Much better stuff than most of us ever dreamed up HOA or not.

I live in NYC. I don't even have a Walkie. But I am full on remote HF
24/7/365.

It's a great world. Think of it as a resource. It's a NETWORK resource. And
you don't have to manage it.

Bill N2WL

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Re: [Elecraft] Speaker upgrade

[Rick Bates, NK7I]

Regardless of radio, my go to is the black Motorola mobile speakers (~5" 
square, with mounts).  Already shaped for communications audio (chopped 
lows, peaked mids and some highs) by design, they sound awesome on the 
K3 *once you find a matching output pair* (they can vary in output by 
several dB).  Estate sales, swap meets and radio shop closures are prime 
spots to find them; often $10 each (oh heck yeah, snag it and bag it!).


Also, if you find them, the old Radio Shack speaker cubes (about 2" 
cubed) have very clear communication audio and work great in a mobile 
environment.  Before RS went out of business the price was jacked up to 
about $60 (from $10) so swap meet prices may vary.


I (almost) never use any internal speaker since they are not usually 
more than a basic add on, or have to be cranked up so much to be useful 
that they don't last long (and are mono with dual receivers).


You might check to see what Elecraft offers for speakers to match your 
radio esthetics should your budget allow it.


73,
Rick NK7I

On 4/23/2021 12:52 PM, George Thornton wrote:

Which radio?

With respect to the K3 I would recommend use of external speakers.   They can 
improve comfort for longer listening periods.

I am a personal fan of the Sounds Sweet communications speakers.  Unfortunately 
although the web page remains open they have not been selling them for years..  
If you can find them used I would grab a pair.

I don't know that replacing the internal speaker would be worth the trouble.



-Original Message-
From: elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net  On 
Behalf Of Steve Fox
Sent: Friday, April 23, 2021 12:28 PM
To: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: [Elecraft] Speaker upgrade

Hi

Anyone care to recommend an internal speaker replacement?

Steve
KA4FOX

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Re: [Elecraft] Headphones for Hearing Loss

[Rick Bates, NK7I]

I may have missed or forgotten it; but does the computer portion of the 
K4 (the network chip specifically) allow for BlueTooth audio from the RF 
portion so one could use a BT headset (hearing aids)?


I have a BT headset with a (no boom) mic used on a iPhone that would be 
awesome to retask for phone on the K4 audio.  Two less wires on the desk...


73,
Rick NK7I

PS if not, one for the want list?


On 1/26/2021 4:45 PM, Joseph Shuman via Elecraft wrote:

Thanks to everyone.  A lot of good experience and advice to consider.

Keeping Watch -
shu

Joe Shuman, NZ8P
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Re: [Elecraft] External sound card advice needed to attach to K3

[Rick Bates, NK7I]

If it's insisted to use the OS sound card; one should make sure that the 
audio driver (slightly harder to access in Win 10) does not allow local 
microphone (web cam or often built into a laptop) to be accessed EVER 
(by disabling it AND reducing the level to zero), lest it find a path 
into the transmitter.  Checking after each update is required; levels 
and setting CAN change then (check 'listen' tabs  to deny as well).


That is the same issue as those who choose a mic input for (computer 
audio) digital TX, yet fail to disconnect the mic during digital 
transmitting, so both go live and unintended station sounds are 
transmitted with the wanted digital tones.  (head slap!)


Again, a rig costs hundreds plus, a computer (except Pi) does also; yet 
there is resistance to adding a $20 item to make legality simpler to 
meet... not a significant price.


Phil, you're correct in that it merits a question on the test; it's that 
common an error.  (No, I won't poke the bear, except to get a better 
photo, hi  and only from a safe distance).


HNY,
Rick NK7I

On 1/1/2021 5:47 PM, Phil Kane wrote:

On 1/1/2021 5:11 PM, Don Wilhelm wrote:

Just make sure your OS does not set the external soundcard as 
default. Windows often does that when you first install it - check 
the soundcard settings.


The Winlink VARA setup instructions make this very clear, although I 
have never experienced a Win 10 update turning my OS sound selection 
on after I have turned it to "No Sounds".


73 de K2ASP - Phil Kane
Elecraft K2/100   s/n 5402

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Re: [Elecraft] External sound card advice needed to attach to K3

[Rick Bates, NK7I]

You're making fun of care and caution?

Mistakes will happen (forgetting to turn VOX off when done with the QSO; 
bumping the key, the snoring cat laying on the microphone switch) but 
that is not the same level of mistake as transmitting ambient noise, 
operating system sounds (of any type) or similar.


We are all liable for what is produced by our stations; we should take 
that seriously and do our best to manage them.  It's been clear that 
there are many that don't as often found on the bands.


73,
Rick NK7I

On 1/1/2021 10:57 AM, Wes wrote:
We should go back to a toggle switch on the front panel for 
transmit/receive because having VOX turned on might allow an 
inadvertent transmission of shack noise.  Likewise, with QSK on CW 
accidentally bumping the key will send unwanted garbage.  We should be 
protected from ourselves making mistakes.


Wes  N7WS

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Re: [Elecraft] External sound card advice needed to attach to K3

[Rick Bates, NK7I]

I disagree, most users are not adept at the trivia in the drivers, so 
the chances of errant audio (monitor the microphone locally check mark) 
increases the risk of transmitting 'garbage'.


The user also loses the benefits provided by the OS sounds (as said in 
another email here on the list).


The average ham radio costs at least hundreds of dollars to buy, an 
adequate sound card is under $10-20.  It's not an economic strain.  The 
cost of wire for a simple antenna, costs much more.


Many newer radios come with a sound device built in; just use that and 
let the OS do things as designed for audio.


73,
Rick NK7I


On 1/1/2021 10:20 AM, Wes wrote:

Turn off Windows sounds in Control Panel and operate.

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Re: [Elecraft] External sound card advice needed to attach to K3

[Rick Bates, NK7I]

HNY Phil,

While I'm not an attorney, I've read the rules (subject to 
interpretation of course).  Transmission of music is specifically 
unlawful.  (What is defined as music these days, also subject to 
interpretation, hi hi.)


Defined in the simplest of terms, any sound transmitted other than for 
the purposes of communication (voice, tones for digital) is illegal.


This includes background music in the same room as the microphone 
(though generally ignored as part of the environment, in the US; same as 
telephone 'hold' music in an autopatch; traffic noise etc.) and 
certainly includes the 'musical' sounds from most OS (they offer no 
communication).


Which, to me, means the sounds from an OS are unlawful to transmit.  If 
the incidental OS sound is spoken ("You have mail"), that isn't legal in 
the digital, non-phone) portions of the bands.  At the very least, they 
use more spectrum than necessary (i.e. 3 KHz bandwidth in an area for 
FT8, which uses ~60 Hz bandwidth per user) and offer nothing for 
communication.


Considering the general apathy of the FCC lately (US of course), I'm not 
surprised that this has never been tested by citation.  I'd much rather 
err on the side of caution.  Turning off the OS sounds is not a complete 
solution.


Using a sound card, specific and limited to the radio use, is a vast 
improvement over using the OS sounds device to maintain legality.


73,
Rick NK7I

On 1/1/2021 10:04 AM, Phil Kane wrote:

On 1/1/2021 8:56 AM, Rick Bates, NK7I wrote:

A generically 'bad' idea and is the reason that voice, operating 
system sounds (all illegal) and poor audio are often in the digital 
portions of the bands.


Please explain your comment "all illegal" concerning "operating system 
sounds". As both a telecommunications engineer and a communications 
attorney I have never had to deal with the legality or illegality of 
"operating system sounds".


73 de K2ASP - Phil Kane
Elecraft K2/100   s/n 5402

From a Clearing in the Silicon Forest
Beaverton (Washington County) Oregon

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Re: [Elecraft] K3 Tx Spurious on Specific Frequencies on 160/80/40

[Rick Bates, NK7I]

I don't have an answer, I have no test gear that would even allow a look 
(other than another radio).  But I'm curious how you're measuring and 
observing (not doubting) these results.


Except for the reports seen on the air to validate your observations; if 
the radio change barely affects the results and the condition does not, 
it's either a failure of both radios or the testing environment (i.e. 
transmitting into the same antenna).


What happens with changes in power output, different (dummy) loads?  
Then the eternal question; since this hasn't been noted before at your 
station; what else is different or has changed?  Have you tightened your 
antenna connectors lately?


HNY,
Rick NK7I

On 1/1/2021 9:30 AM, g4piq--- via Elecraft wrote:

In general I've found the spurious performance of the K3 to be pretty good,
but I've noticed something today that I thought it would be worth asking
more widely if anyone else has seen and fixed.

  


I was calling CQ on 40m around 7014 kHz and I noted that several skimmers
also reported me weakly on c. 600 Hz either side of this frequency.
Sometimes skimmers have bad spurious responses, but seeing this on more than
one skimmer caused me to look more closely at my transmit spectrum. I
discovered that - particularly on 40m - there were specific frequency ranges
where a pair of sidebands appeared that move at 150% of the change in
carrier frequency. So on 7012 kHz they are at roughly +/- 500 Hz, at 7011
kHz they are at roughly +/- 1 kHz, at 7010 kHz they are at roughly +/- 1.5
kHz. They cross over with the carrier just below 7013 kHz.

  


Similar patterns recur in other parts of 40m, but they are strongest near
the bottom of the band. There are dramatic step changes in the level of the
spuria at the boundaries between synthesiser segments - So I see spurii from
7000-7004, none from 7004-7009, spurii 7009 -7015, etc. They peak in
strength when they are about +/- 500 Hz from the carrier, but drop
significantly in level as you get further from the carrier.

  


The level of these spurii is what was concerning - at their worst they were
less than 30dB down on the transmit signal. They grow somewhat non-linearly
with power. At 5W they are -40dBc, at 12W they are -32dBc, at 13W they are
-35dBc and at 100W they are a little less than -30dBc. I can see the same
style of spuria in some segments on 80m and 160m - but at lower levels.

  


I assumed this was a fault with that specific radio - and in some ways it is
- but the same spurii are present on both K3s that I have here - but on the
second radio they are no worse than -45dBc.

  


I've disconnected everything connected externally from the radio, tried
different power supplies, and recalibrated the synthesiser and Tx gain with
no significant change.

  


Both radios have the original synthesisers - not the KSYN3A.

  


Any leads from anyone on this one?

  


73,

  


Andy, G4PIQ

  

  


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Re: [Elecraft] External sound card advice needed to attach to K3

[Rick Bates, NK7I]

Precisely why (since MS can foul up audio settings routinely on any 
random update) it's a bad idea.  Leaving one small check mark in a lower 
level driver setting (looping/routing audio) that leaves a mic hot is 
but one example.  There are  too  many ways to make an error.  Using the 
computer sound card on a radio is not 'set and forget'.


We still have a large base of folks that don't get what is required to 
operate a clean (legal) station; we all learn as we go.  Setting 
boundaries is part of that edcucation (OS stays in OS, radio stays in 
radio).


Turning off the OS sounds, one would also lose features that the OS and 
apps that are useful (like JTAlert "DX" announcements, Zoom/Skype 
audio).  The small cost of a sound device (or second sound card) for the 
radio(s) is certainly worth the gains and lowering of the risks.


73,
Rick NK7I

On 1/1/2021 9:34 AM, Mike Harris via Elecraft wrote:
Not really. It all boils down to _*understanding what you are doing*_. 
Windows sounds can be turned off. The best sound card in the world 
isn't going to stop anyone from transmitting garbage. Understanding 
includes setting the audio levels correctly throughout the system. 
I've used my PC sound system with two simple audio cables for years. 
Now I have upgraded my K3 with the K3s I/O and simply pipe audio, CAT, 
PTT and PC CW down the one USB cable.


Regards,

Mike VP8NO


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Re: [Elecraft] External sound card advice needed to attach to K3

[Rick Bates, NK7I]

A generically 'bad' idea and is the reason that voice, operating system 
sounds (all illegal) and poor audio are often in the digital portions of 
the bands.


HNY!
Rick NK7I

On 1/1/2021 8:50 AM, Wes wrote:

You don't need a sound card beyond the one in your computer.

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Re: [Elecraft] External sound card advice needed to attach to K3

[Rick Bates, NK7I]

For getting started, there is nothing 'wrong' about the SignaLink USB 
but there are better devices out there (less noise, better sensitivity, 
flatter response).  There are also many mods for it to make improvements.


So for now, use what you have and when it you can (as with anything 
station), make improvements.


HNY!,
Rick NK7I


On 1/1/2021 8:38 AM, Joe Subich, W4TV wrote:



Trying to figure out what current sound cards will work with my older
K3.


Any sound card with Line In and Line Out will work with the K3.  I would
avoid the $5 USB dongles that are designed to work with a headset (mic
and earphones).

As long as you are not looking for voice DVK support (planning to loop
a microphone through the sound card) a simple sound card with just Line
In and Line Out will work just fine for RTTY (AFSK) and other audio
based data modes.

73,

   ... Joe, W4TV


On 2021-01-01 11:13 AM, Craig Wissman wrote:

Sorry to trouble you folks. I’m sure this is a well worn path.
Trying to figure out what current sound cards will work with my older 
K3.
Online equipment refs  I’ve discovered are either out of date or 
inconsistent.
I’ve been trying to follow Max George’s(NG7M) March 2018 1:55min 
YouTube instructions.   Also info from AA5AU and N1MM tutorials.
Tried to search this post archive but find doing it by subject matter 
doesn’t seem to work. Having to dig through monthly summaries.
Trying to get setup with N1MM/MMTTY K3 serial port vintage with dual 
rcvrs. Windows 10 desktop.
Plan to start out with FSK and maybe dabble with other chat related 
digital modes down the line.

Can anyone point me to current sound card best practices?
I have a 2006 vintage Signalink used years back but seem to we warned 
not to bother…

Craig WF6Q




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Re: [Elecraft] K3, KAT500, KAP500

[Rick Bates, NK7I]

You can put (either) the KPA or the K3 on the KAT500, it can take the 
weight.  When I used that combo, the amp sat on the tuner, no issues.


However, it's in your better interest to allow nothing atop the K3 AND 
the KPA to optimize cooling.


If you MUST stack them, shim (along the side edges) them to allow for 3+ 
inches of clearance to allow for heat dissipation (venting for the 
fans).  Again, that's not the best situation and should be avoided.  (K3 
on the bottom for easy control access, SHIM, KAT, KPA)


As said; you WILL have a mess of cables to address as well, RF, ACC, 
serial lines, power...  confining that to a small space rarely goes well 
(pull on one, five more follow).


I'd suggest serious thought to come up with a better arrangement.  If 
you use computer control and logging, the KPA/KAT combination don't have 
to be visible (just allow for cooling), and within no more than 6' of 
ACC cable away from the K3...  The computer can change modes, trigger 
tuning etc. via the utility apps (saves a long reach too).


GL es 73,
Rick NK7I


On 12/11/2020 2:07 PM, Jim Rhodes wrote:

That is how I would do it. KPA55 needs the most cooling. You will end up
with a maze of wires and cables behind the stack though.

On Fri, Dec 11, 2020, 13:18 Harlan Sherriff via Elecraft <
elecraft@mailman.qth.net> wrote:


Rearranging the shack. This may have been answered before but I can’t find
it. Is it okay to stack the three units bottom to top:
KPA
KAT
K3

73’
Harlan
K4HES


Sent from my iPhone
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Re: [Elecraft] K3 FT8

[Rick Bates, NK7I]

Not just the levels but the right input source on the K3?

73,
Rick NK7I


On 12/11/2020 12:28 PM, Don Wilhelm wrote:

Joe,

Do you have the audio levels set right for transmit?
Go to my webpage www.w3fpr.com and look at the last article in the 
left column.


73,
Don W3FPR

On 12/11/2020 3:10 PM, Joe K2UF wrote:

I am trying to get FT8 running on my K3 using Rig blaster advantage.
Everything works except no  transmit RF output.
  Enable TX puts K3 into transmit but no RFoutput.  Have tried 
adjusting RBA

xmit level and K3 mic output.  No joy.
  .Anyone able to share their PTT settings.
  Thanks,
  Joe K2UF
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Re: [Elecraft] K4 Radio Update

[Rick Bates, NK7I]

The shortest answer is:  That's not possible. It's an evolving OS like 
any other; change is inevitable.


Rick NK7I


On 12/6/2020 4:13 PM, Dave Cole wrote:

Hi Paul,

Not to pick nits, but I would rather have them write code that does 
not worry them when the Linux kernel is updated.


73, and thanks,
Dave (NK7Z)
https://www.nk7z.net
ARRL Volunteer Examiner
ARRL Technical Specialist, RFI
ARRL Asst. Director, NW Division, Technical Resources

On 12/6/20 3:59 PM, Paul Van Dyke wrote:
I believe you are correct, only Eric can tell you the exact.  I would 
rather have it that way,  It would tick me off immensely if they just 
passed through and the possible bug would show up later. They are 
more apt to play their cards a lot closer than many other manufacturers


Paul  KB9AVO

On Sun, Dec 6, 2020, 6:52 PM Dave Cole > wrote:


    Hi Paul,

    I want to check my understanding of what you just said:

    For whatever reason, a kernel update not triggered by Elecraft,
    triggered a shipment stoppage of the K4s?  Is that correct?

    73, and thanks,
    Dave (NK7Z)
    https://www.nk7z.net
    ARRL Volunteer Examiner
    ARRL Technical Specialist, RFI
    ARRL Asst. Director, NW Division, Technical Resources

    On 12/6/20 3:23 PM, Paul Van Dyke wrote:
 > Greetings...
 >
 > This to answer more than a few emails I have gotten.
 >
 > I just got off the phone with Eric WA6HHQ, and he explained that
    they made
 > a few tweeks in some of the features that are in K4. They DID NOT
    do a
 > major rewrite... But at the same time, there was an upgrade in
    the Linux
 > operating system, and Eric, Wayne, and many engineers, field
    testers are
 > beating up the code to make sure the improvements do not have 
adverse

 > affects or hidden flaws before they resume shipping. I believe
    there will
 > be a note, to all, in a week or so, giving a more detailed
    explanation.
 >
 > Keep Well
 >
 > Paul Van Dyke - KB9AVO
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Re: [Elecraft] K4 Radio Update

[Rick Bates, NK7I]

Usually any kernel update has to do with security issues (that's a very 
broad stroke) so freezing it would leave security gaps or known issues.


Then there are files that constantly seem to update (i.e. the time zone 
files are a constant state of update; who knew it was so tough to figure 
zone changes?).


And there may be improved drivers for the hardware, which may break 
things relying on eccentricities of the old driver...  Or drivers for 
new hardware since the last release instead of the generic driver that 
was used.


I randomly update my linux machines, no pattern at all but months apart 
is a fair guess.  They don't have many ports or services available so 
while they're still attacked, so far, there haven't been any successful 
break ins.  I also split the duties to various computers around the 
house (the router knows all and puts one linux box in the DMZ and it's 
secure enough to handle it).  Without knowing what I did, the end user 
doesn't have a clue what machine or OS I'm using.


Sometimes even the version (and support) have had a major update, which 
may change a lot of things in one pass. That's not always good.


Often the audio breaks because the app used to manipulate or process the 
audio is deprecated; so scripts or similar that call the apps must be 
adapted...


It's an evolving OS as any other, which means changes.

I'm sure Elecraft will stay on top of it.  Keep the faith.  Their name 
and rep is on the line and they treat things in that manner.


73,
Rick NK7I



On 12/6/2020 4:49 PM, Fred Jensen wrote:
Was wondering that myself, Carl.  But then, I can think of two broad 
reasons:


1.  The Linux update fixes a serious flaw that was adversely affecting 
the Elecraft FW


2.  The update does something that, if capitalized on, would have a 
serious positive effect on the Elecraft FW capability/performance


In any case, Wayne and Eric [and the rest of the crew for that matter] 
are not neophytes in this business.  I'm sure the reasons were good.


73,

Fred ["Skip"] K6DGW
Sparks NV DM09dn
Washoe County

On 12/6/2020 4:36 PM, Carl Yaffey wrote:
Hmmm. Not sure why they don’t “freeze” the version of Linux that they 
have for now.





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Re: [Elecraft] KAT500 lost serial comms - try factory defaults?

[Rick Bates, NK7I]

Frank,

I would start with a complete power removal (not just off) to the KAT500 
and the computer (unplugged from power).  Then go have a cuppa.  When 
you get back, plug the power in and restart it and test.


I have found that some devices (more in the USB realm) occasionally 
'stick' when exposed to RF and that a long power removal is the only 
cure.  If it's a frequent event, you have an RFI issue to deal with 
(better grounding and bonding is the first place to start for that).


GL,
Rick NK7I



On 12/4/2020 8:22 AM, Frank R. Oppedijk wrote:

Hi all,

I’ve used my KAT500 with pleasure for many years, but recently a problem has 
arisen: I’ve lost the serial communication feature. I’ve already swapped the 
KXUSB cable with another one (home-brew) so I’m pretty sure it’s not the KXUSB 
that’s gone kaput. And the PC is doing USB comms fine (e.g. the USB interfaces 
to my K3), so I guess it’s not the PC or the USB port either.

I’m contemplating trying a KAT500 factory reset. But two questions arise:
1. Can I do a factory reset without having the serial comms working (so: can I 
do a factory reset other than from within the KAT500 Utility)?
2. What antennas are enabled after a factory reset?

(Question 2 is because I have multiple antennas connected to the KAT500, and if 
the factory defaults would be that only ANT1 would be enabled, I would lose 
functionality until I’ve got the KAT500 repaired…)

Hope the collective wisdom of the group can help me out.

73 de Frank PA4N
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Re: [Elecraft] KX2 & FT8

[Rick Bates, NK7I]

Rich,

You WANT to change what Windows does because a generation ago, to allow 
their server software to function, they increased the error gap in the 
NTP system.  It allows WAY too much drift and they've never cleaned that 
up (because most users don't care).


I use and suggest Meinberg; which can replace the Windows NTP service.  
It's free and keeps my computers within .03 seconds to standard (on very 
slow Internet) without requiring high overhead (it just works and well).


73,
Rick NK7I


On 12/1/2020 1:09 PM, Rich NE1EE wrote:

On 2020-12-01 12:13:-0800, Jim Brown wrote:

On 12/1/2020 6:01 AM, Rich NE1EE wrote:

What is the sync time tolerance?

1 sec is OK, 2 sec will lose a lot of QSOs. I've used this free app for ten 
years. Painless to install, runs in the background.
http://www.timesynctool.com/

73, Jim K9YC

I think that I used to use that. It sure looks familiar. But I now use routines 
that are already a part of Windows. I just change the time sync period from the 
default of 1 week to 1 day. It could be set to hourly, and that would keep the 
sync time (theoretically) below 0.5s. Not trying to sell Windows, but don't see 
adding to what is already there.

~R~
72/73 de Rich NE1EE
The Dusty Key
On the banks of the Piscataqua

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Re: [Elecraft] Firmware development

[Rick Bates, NK7I]

Well that IS rather condescending.

I would take a different view, that MOST of the hams using Elecraft use 
MOST of the features on a regular basis but because the features are 
designed well, the user doesn't NEED to fiddle about (or understand the 
precise ways they work).  One of the benchmarks of a good UI is that 
most of it is set and forget.  Elecraft: PASS


With the support group, the manual and the Cady book; there is ample 
opportunity to learn some of the nuts and bolts for those who want to 
know.  Once set to operate in the fashion that the user prefers; the 
radio (with all the features) is simply used.  If one doesn't understand 
a function or wishes to learn a better use of a feature, they can read 
or just ask (or watch a video if that is how they best learn).


No one is born with all knowledge and I won't be disparaging to new 
hams; some of them blow right through all the exams in one sitting going 
from nothing to the highest license. They may not have experience yet, 
but clearly they're not idiots as you imply.  (Sadly, some are, even 
after decades of opportunity to learn better.)  It is the job of every 
ham, to teach them how to be better, to pass knowledge along.


Some people LIKE making adjustments and learning the deep secrets of any 
device; others adjust according to their needs and a few just leave most 
of the settings as stock and yet none of them are wrong.


Elecraft radios are no more complex than other radios but the simpler 
front panel UI (based on USING the radio, not fiddling with it) hides it 
a lot more than many other brands.  Then add that Elecraft designers 
actually USE the radios in all things ham radio; they understand what is 
needed for the 'average' ham, the DXer and the contester no matter what 
mode they choose. Kencomsu may, we never know and hear only crickets 
from them.


The K4 won't be much different; simple up front with the bulk of the 
used (but no need to be in your face) features accessible with the menu 
UI.  Certainly it's a better platform for future growth with refinements 
unavailable when the earlier models were designed; but that's splitting 
hairs that only an extreme user (contesting, DXing) would require.  It 
will be a solid, dependable radio, no matter how the ham chooses to use 
it; with growth potential unavailable from almost any other brand.


Name any other company that gives you FREE firmware updates in real time 
(not months later like Icom or never like most others) until the issues 
are resolved to the user satisfaction; or that ADD features previously 
unavailable. Or offer hardware updates or refinements, in part because 
the radios are designed to be modular and upgradeable as new devices are 
available.  Or board level support.  


No, I won't disparage or belittle any of the Elecraft line; the UI makes 
it all available (mostly set and forget); you get to talk directly with 
the designers and owners of the company and they do more than any other 
company to make things 'right' in the eyes of the customer/user; not 
just give cookie cutter designs and answers then move on with no help 
provided.


And the product line just works better, hearing ability is among the 
very elite and transmitters are cleaner on the air than most of the 
other brands.


If a user is constantly fiddling about with the controls; it's because 
they either want to or don't understand their proper use and should ask 
questions.  Set and forget is an asset.  Once set, the complexity hidden 
within the UI is one of the strong points, because it doesn't require an 
EE and operation becomes simple allowing the user to simply use and 
enjoy the radio.


If the user has not looked into all the settings, perhaps it's because 
they haven't needed to do so.  That's a telltale mark of a good product 
(although the ham SHOULD learn more about what tool/s they're using, in 
my opinion).


Maybe you haven't dived into the depths, because you haven't needed to 
or other reasons; but I wouldn't group all users in that category.  Each 
user has an level of understanding and ability; no two are exactly the 
same; no two stations are precisely alike.


When I first get any piece of gear, I go through every setting, making 
sure I understand it's use (adjust if needed); then I stop being 
concerned about the vast array of choices and just use the radio.  I may 
go back for refined adjustments, but that's not very often.  I suspect 
most hams are similar to that method.  If it's been a while, the manual, 
Cady book and group can be used (in that order) to find the proper control.


By design, Elecraft radios can be used by a wide range of hams from 
basic noob to EE+ education; from ragchewers to extreme use>; they've hit the mark.


They allow the hams to rise to higher level of understanding, competence 
and ability because of the quality; with some help from the manual, user 
groups, Cady book and DIRECT contact.  VERY few companies are at that 
level, 

Re: [Elecraft] KAT500 Anomalies

[Rick Bates, NK7I]

The short answer is you 'teach' the tuner on each 'bin' frequency what 
the settings are for a good match (with each antenna, each on it's own 
antenna port).  Then you put the tuner into manual mode; which still 
adjusts the matching values as the frequency changes BUT disables the 
retune feature.  You DO need to pay attention to SWR, that should be 
second nature anyway.


Every time you 'teach' a value into the bin (one per antenna port), it 
overwrites the previous value(s) so no, you won't run out of memory.


One thing I would do is check the tuner component values from your 
baseline (dry, sunny day) to the current values, it's possible that 
something is changing on the antenna more than usual (ladder/window line 
DOES change a little when wet or windy and near other 'things').  If the 
changes are small, you'll be fine.  Any major shift in values (or SWR) 
should be evaluated for cause (broken wire opens when windy?).


I suggest that you limit the amount of feedline movement, if possible (I 
tied mine with a cord, to the fence, then it ran to the shack, slightly 
tensioned just enough to compensate for tree movement, not free sway).  
That reduces the seasonal affects.


You could also compare un-tuned SWR to see if there is a radical change, 
but SWR is not the entire story of the load (it's a composite measurement).


Of course, make sure that your matching device (balun has variable 
meanings making that name, useless) has tight, clean weather resistant 
connections and isn't bothered by weather or seasonal debris (leaves).


I came across similar changes when I used a 375' center fed dipole (80M 
EDZ) at only 35' (oaks didn't grow much taller), window line fed into a 
4:1 common mode choke transformer and a SHORT piece of coax into the 
shack.  It worked well on all bands, I managed over 200 countries 
despite the local noises (noise floor ~-80 dBm).  Now I use a resonant 
antenna (80-6M plus one on 160M) which is MUCH simpler (but expensive) 
with a noise floor typically in the -120 dBm range (ah, quiet!  I moved 
away from the noise).


73,
Rick NK7I


On 11/23/2020 12:52 PM, Lyn Norstad wrote:

I've been using the KPA/KAT500 Combo for a bit over a year, and while there
have been a couple issues with the KPA, the KAT has been fine for all this
time.  I operate various digital modes frequently (i.e.: FT8, JS8, Winlink,
etc.) so I often return to the same frequency on each band.

  


Today, running 50 watts in Winlink VARA HF mode, it had problems staying
matched on 80 meters.  It would try to rematch on each transmit cycle.

  


As a result, the cycles were incomplete and data transfer was erratic.

  


My question is, how many memory settings can it hold in memory, per band?
My antenna is fed with ladder line (yes, I have a balun, etc and it's been
fine for well over a year).  It's possible that the system will tune
slightly different now and then due to the ladderline blowing around (in
contact with tree leaves, let's say).  Am I using up so many memory slots
after this time that it is running out of space?

  


Thinking that might be a possibility, I reloaded a config from about 6
months back which would not have seen as many frequencies used.  I have also
experimented with the MTA commands.  At this point, it seems stable.

  


I've always been a bit confused by the "Teach it in Auto Mode, but Operate
in Manual Mode" suggestion I've heard from time to time.  As received, the
"Memory Recall Tune on QSY" defaults to ON for both modes.

  


I'd appreciate any insight from KAT users.

  


73

Lyn, W0LEN

  

  


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Re: [Elecraft] Antennas and Output Power - KPA-1500

[Rick Bates, NK7I]

This happens due to heating of the finals (network); typically 1500 
watts when cold (15-25C in my shack), drops to 1400 watts once warmed up 
(50-60C).  One can either adjust as needed or just accept 1500 cold and 
the drop (much less than one dB); but of course one should pay attention 
in all cases, should the limit exceed the permitted levels.


True gain values should include the temp of the amp; it matters.

90% of the time, when I use the amp, I'll run <1200 watts out, even 
though there is already plenty of headroom in the amp.  It's rare that 
the few hundred more watts makes any real difference (but it's nice to 
have!).


Now that winter is starting (North Idaho), it also takes the chill off 
the shack!


73,
Rick NK7I


On 10/31/2020 10:34 AM, K8TE wrote:

I have also noted that after not using the KPA1500 for a "long time" which
could be 15-30 minutes, power output can exceed alarm settings (well over
1500 Watts).  And when used some more, the power output decreases to 1500
without any exciter adjustments.  This means the KPA1500 gain figure seems
to increase after "resting" and decreases with use.

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Re: [Elecraft] extension of the length of the K3/KPA acc cable

[Rick Bates, NK7I]

In a post long ago, 2 meters was posted by Elecraft, as the max end-end 
length of the ACC cabling (two sections of stock cable).  Cabling longer 
than that /MAY /affect the signal timing, causing errors (their words).  
I ran my temporary station that way (for a couple years) until I got the 
new shack room built and had no issues with cabling.


The cost of the proper cable from Elecraft is reasonable or there are 
other sources (at your own risk).  You bought a Ferrari of a radio, are 
you going to cripple it with questionable tires?  Don't cheap out, do it 
right.


I also agree, the N6TV boxes (and cables) simplify the wiring (not 
neaten to any great extent but it helps, it's great but not miraculous 
:-P) .  If you go that route, Bob will work with you for the proper 
pieces based on your needs.  Neatness helps minimize noise and other 
issues too.


73,
Rick NK7I


On 10/20/2020 12:55 PM, Eric Norris wrote:

In my book, get an N6TV Y-Box V3, he can supply proper cables of any
length.

73 Eric WD6DBM

On Tue, Oct 20, 2020, 10:27 AM Howard Sherer  wrote:


I have the older style thick heavy cable from Elecraft for connection
between the K3 and the KPA amp. It is just a little too short to fit my
application. What is the best way to extend its length without  any pin
conflicts to the missing pins? Can a standard VGA cable be used on the K2
side?

Howard AE3T
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Re: [Elecraft] K4 Remote Question

[Rick Bates, NK7I]

I've tried that (with 10 dB sticks on my wifi cameras) and it didn't 
really help.  That router already had high gain antennas (not the mesh 
style, they're apparently only available with internal antennas, sadly).


To 'translate' from a wired only device into wifi, an extender (with 
it's own router) can help, but as I've said is not the cure.  A pure 
wire to wifi dongle may (then the device is just another network user 
for the router to figure out).


My OpenSpot (original) is one of the devices wired to a node, the IRLP 
computer is another (each node has two ports, one of which can be 
connected to a switch too if you need more ports).  That way the mesh 
just handles the data without extender conflicts.


What shocks me the most is the sheer volume of 'toys' connected at any 
given moment, often upwards of 30 and I live alone!  Cameras, printers, 
computers, bluray, weather station, smart tv... it adds up very quickly.


73,
Rick NK7I

On 9/9/2020 10:39 AM, Raymond Sills via Elecraft wrote:

Hi Rick:
And... perhaps another answer for Wi-Fi "extension" is to use a better antenna. 
 Some routers permit you to add an outboard antenna, which could be a gain antenna, so 
you would then have a better connection for your LAN.  Or, you might situate the routers 
so they have a better path.  All that is in the traditions of ham radio!
73 de Ray    K2ULR    KX3 #211



-Original Message-----
From: Rick Bates, NK7I 
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Sent: Wed, Sep 9, 2020 1:24 pm
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] K4 Remote Question

Just be judicious in the use of wifi extenders, they are half duplex and
since they share the same channel of wifi, cause conflicts, which drags
down the entire network. Some can be configured to hear on one band and
transmit on another, which helps, a little.

My answer was to replace the network with a mesh net, then connecting
devices into the nodes directly as needed. That is MUCH more efficient
and the LAN speed shot back up to where it should be.

73,
Rick NK7I



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Re: [Elecraft] K4 Remote Question

[Rick Bates, NK7I]

Just be judicious in the use of wifi extenders, they are half duplex and 
since they share the same channel of wifi, cause conflicts, which drags 
down the entire network. Some can be configured to hear on one band and 
transmit on another, which helps, a little.


My answer was to replace the network with a mesh net, then connecting 
devices into the nodes directly as needed. That is MUCH more efficient 
and the LAN speed shot back up to where it should be.


73,
Rick NK7I


On 9/9/2020 10:18 AM, Fred Jensen wrote:
300 Mbps is massive overkill.  My K3 and computer is on the other end 
of the house from the router and wiring is pretty much out of the 
question.  I use a little WiFi dongle from IO Gear on the RRC-1258, 
I've got a couple, I think they came from Amazon.  We use TeamViewer 
for all the station automation at W7RN, it consumes several times the 
BW of the remote radio but still tiny compared to 300 Mbps.


73,

Fred ["Skip"] K6DGW
Sparks NV DM09dn
Washoe County

On 9/9/2020 8:29 AM, Pete Meier via Elecraft wrote:
The K4 has an eithernet port for remote operations. As I understand 
it the K4 doesn’t have WIFI .
My internet router is not close to my shack so direct CAT 5/6 wiring 
is not practical.
I know there are wired to wireless adapters available. 300 Mbps seems 
the typical speed to the router.


So my question is 300 Mbps sufficient for the K4 to send it’s data to 
a remote device for full control?


Pete WK8S



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Re: [Elecraft] KPA-1500 SWR fault above 700-800 watts on 160m

[Rick Bates, NK7I]

Being able to use a  without reading the manual is 
actually one of my personal tests of the user interface.  Jump in, see 
how it plays and what is presented to make changes if needed.


The K3 easily passes that test (former Kenwood user; Elecraft is similar 
in format), HOWEVER that is on the surface only.  One must read through 
the manual (a few times preferably) to get into the menu settings (only 
one layer deep) and the reasons for them, when to apply them.  An annual 
or topical review can be done in personal down time, to keep the meat 
memory cells active.  And even then, something new may 'appear' in the 
text and learning happens.


Then for reading dessert, read the firmware update statements as a few 
things are added and others change slightly over time since the manual 
was created.


I also have a 7300 (for the RV) and it's not as UI friendly to me but is 
a convoluted series of menus to alter what should be a simple change; so 
it's what one is used to seeing, in part.  Some of that is 
cross-cultural phrasing, some of it, is a lesser UI (in my opinion).


73,
Rick NK7I

K3, P3, KAT500, KPA500, KPA1500, investments in quality.


On 9/3/2020 11:56 AM, K8TE wrote:

RTFM is a wonderful acronym to follow.  I'm always surprised to read "I
think..." "I recall..." and similar posts to answer a poster's question.
Most of us are U.S.A. males, no offense to those who aren't.  As such, our
DNA has been irradiated by past (not Cycle 24) solar cycles and we no long
see the need to read manuals.

A friend of mine bought an IC-7300 because he could operate it without
reading the manual.  He has since read some of the manual and uses features
that make his signal (usually weak with a 12 ft. high antenna) more
copyable.  I am working on his further conversion.


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Re: [Elecraft] Inverted L for 160 meters

[Rick Bates, NK7I]

For the record, I agree but as I made no series of qualifying tests; all 
I was able to state in my previous comments was that the inverted L was 
more efficient (heard by more) and I heard better when I went vertical.


Both of which can be my change in location; this locale is loads 
quieter, one of the points I reviewed before purchase.  Although moving 
800 miles north in NA rarely helps propagation (I didn't move here for 
the fast internet or easy prop).  I can state that I have another 80 or 
so ATNO since the move (because I can HEAR now!); sitting at 304 worked 
(but I really have to work on getting more QSL cards).


What I have now works ; I mostly work what I hear (and with a K3, 
that ain't bad).  Will it work better with stacked arrays and/or taller 
towers?  We'll never know.  ;-)   Soon I'll be down to one antenna per 
band (total 2 for HF).  While that makes 'single point failure' 
possible, I like simple... and I have other endeavors should the 
antenna/s fail.


73,
Rick NK7I
FAR North Idaho

On 8/28/2020 4:13 PM, Bill Johnson wrote:

Exactly spot on in my opinion. What "works" in my backyard, perhaps will not in 
yours.  What seems to be a great antenna in my yard, doesn't make it movable and working 
elsewhere.  That's the fun of antennas IMHO.  Love to experiment and don't take too 
seriously all the suggestions.  I like talking about antennas but not pontificating about 
one over another.

73,
Bill
K9YEQ

-Original Message-
From: elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net  On 
Behalf Of Lyn Norstad
Sent: Friday, August 28, 2020 8:41 AM
To: j...@audiosystemsgroup.com; elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Inverted L for 160 meters

Jim, K9YC wrote, in part:


My approach to ham radio has never been mediocrity, but rather to get

better at everything within the limits of my real estate and resources.

Bingo!  We would all like to build the "perfect" antenna for each band and
each intended usage, but more often than not, there are limitations.

In my case, a vertical of any significance would not be permitted by HOA
rules (visible from street), nor would installation of a suitable radial
system be possible due to septic drain field and other considerations - both
physical and aesthetic.

So we do what we can and try to maximize the performance thereof.

Done.

73
Lyn, W0LEN

  


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Re: [Elecraft] Inverted L for 160 meters

[Rick Bates, NK7I]

I will interject here that when I lived in Mordor, er, CA, I also used a 
low (35' max height) EDZ (370', window line fed dipole).  I was able to 
work 200+ countries on all bands (I used a J pole on 6M) within an HOA 
environment (I put it up on a weekday when no one was home, it was 
'invisible').  Then I came to my senses and left the state.


For the first two years here, I used an 80M Sloper (was originally a 
dipole, but a branch took out one end, in the middle of winter snow) and 
a 160M Inverted L which I used on all other bands (except 6M).  In many 
ways, that was better than the EDZ (not enough trees to reuse that) but 
mostly due to the lower noise floor (dropped by ~40 dB in the move).


Now I use a SteppIR DB 36/80 at 60' (and the L on 160M) and it easily 
blows everything I've used out of the water, always in resonance too.  
Not only does it hear better (by nulling out noises, favoring the 
intended direction) it provides gain as well.  A HUGE difference to the 
untuned (but matched) Inverted L (what was unheard, is now workable).  
(Adding a proper grounding system also lowered the noise floor another 
20 dB on average; the house Ufer ground, while legal, was not 
sufficient.  At many times, the floor is at the MDS of the K3.)


The Inverted L at 500 watts out, talked better than it could hear (on 
the K3), frustrating everyone, proving that mismatch losses cost in both 
directions (and costing me a lot of DX).  After installing a proper 
grounding system AND bonding EVERYTHING; the next challenge is to lower 
the noise floor further (remove or reduce all noise sources).  I can now 
hear a little more than I can work (the 'other' side has noise to deal 
with) but will add an array for low band RX.


So you're both right, everyone is limited by what is available on the 
property and budget; I've used all the antennas mentioned in this 
thread.  And that, is the rest of the story (and even in the low range 
of the solar cycle, I have added some ATNO and numerous band slots).


Jim, I'd submit that not only is 160M more challenging on the left 
coast, but 6M is worse since it tends to be N/S much of the time and 
even the coastline leans left so not many stations are south. ;-P   6M 
like 160, also 'spotlights' but in pinpoints.  I have managed DXCC on 
160M since the move, 6M is still a greater challenge (up to 6 so far, 
it's a start).


I'm pleased your place has survived the fires (please do your PRC 4291 
'homework' to continue that good fortune).


73,
Rick NK7I


On 8/27/2020 9:43 AM, Lyn Norstad wrote:

That being said, when working within a limited budget (ham radio IS
important to me but it's not my whole life) and limited antenna options due
to HOA restrictions, I think my Extended Double Zepp performs exactly as I
hoped it would and pretty much maximizes the use of the space available.  At
its design frequency, it produces 4.7 dbi gain with exactly the radiation
pattern I want, namely N-S NVIS on 80 meters for statewide EmCOMM purposes,
E-W for 40m, Increasing numbers of lobes as we go up to 6 meters and thusly
becoming more omni. All are as desired.

How does that compare to your Inverted-L? (Serious question ...)

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Re: [Elecraft] KX3 radio settings for WSJT-X

[Rick Bates, NK7I]

That is clearly a case of RFI; the USB connection is 'sensitive' at that 
frequency range.


Your clue is:  "
then settle down quietly to about 100W.
2.  Around the same time Windows reports "USB device not recognized" and 
the mouse cursor disappears.  "


If it doesn't happen at low wattage but does at higher is your hint; 
you're getting RF back into the shack, which is never a good thing.


Presuming that ALL your equipment is properly bonded AND grounded (not 
the same thing), adding some ferrite to the cabling (begin with the USB 
cable) would be a good place to start.


If you are not completely bonded and grounded, start there first (it can 
also lower the noise floor so you can hear better too).


73,
Rick NK7I


On 8/27/2020 9:41 AM, David Haines wrote:

Here are more details:

All seems to be working fine on 160m-10m except for 17m, so KX3 VFO is 
at 18.100 for the rest of this discussion.


Without WSJT-X running, ATU finds a 1.1 match and TUNE button on KX3 
works as expected.


With WSJT-X running, using the WSJT-X TUNE button causes the following:

1.  KXPA100 power LED's light from left to right _twice_, in 
synchronization with a musical ringing that rises in frequency, then 
settle down quietly to about 100W.


2.  Around the same time Windows reports "USB device not recognized" 
and the mouse cursor disappears.   At this point different things can 
happen:  Maybe the cursor comes back and I can stop the TUNE at 
WSJT-X.  Maybe it doesn't and I have to shut off the KX3 with XMIT 
button.  Sometimes the PC freezes and needs a hard reset.


3.  The KXPA100 fault table lists no faults.

Anybody seen anything like this?

david, KC1DNY, KX3 #08651


On 8/26/2020 7:59 PM, Don Wilhelm wrote:

David,

It is a mystery why the computer reports that message only on 17 
meters.  There should be no band dependency for the USB connection.


73,
Don W3FPR

On 8/26/2020 7:02 PM, David Haines wrote:
I've had good luck setting up my KX3 for FT-8., but it took awhile. 
I used several good sources which I'm sure other will point you to. 
But here's my current issue:


I'm regularly getting FT-8 QSOs on 40m, 20m, and 10 m with no 
problems. The other night I decided to try 17m.  My Windoze computer 
replied "USB device not recognized."  HUH?



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[Elecraft] Remote station ops

[Rick Bates, NK7I]

Not to allow thread hijacking (now renamed at least);

One of my goals is to allow each component of the station to be 
manageable by a computer, in part for the purposes of operation when I 
travel.  Once that goal has been met (99% successful, a couple things 
are 'better' with eyes on), using TeamViewer (and Skype for phone modes) 
is simple.


I've done this for years, successfully but it requires solid 3G or 
better at the remote end, which is often a far greater challenge.


Rick NK7I


On 7/13/2020 9:24 AM, bht...@juno.com wrote:

Has anyone tried TeamViewer using the mode FT8? Was in QST a couple
months ago. Just another facet of this great hobby.

73,
Brian K1DIH


That's one of the great things about Amateur Radio.  There is literally
something for everyone.

73
Lyn, W0LEN


-Original Message-
From: elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net
[mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of Drew AF2Z
Sent: Monday, July 13, 2020 9:57 AM
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] FT8 - was "On Second Thought, I'll Take The
Stairs"

Please- *nobody* is asking JT to save CW by giving us an extra 6-8 dB
SNR. I hope that is not the next Goldilocks mode in the pipeline. I
assume proponents of such a cobbled up "user interface" would feel
perfectly justified in "sharing" even more CW frequency space? No thanks.

73,
Drew
AF2Z



On 07/12/20 20:57, David Gilbert wrote:


Not quite.  I'm aware of JS8 and tried it more than a year ago, but it
still has much of the rigidity of the WSJT-X user interface and isn't

as

basic as I think would be desirable.

Think of it this way ... CW works fine as both a contest mode, DXing
mode, and conversational mode.  Underlaying CW with a well configured
digital signal processing scheme like that which is under FT8, except
with a different user interface than either WSJT-X or JS8,  could be
equally versatile but with maybe 6-8 db better S/N ... possibly by an
even greater margin if the decoding allowed errors instead of being all
or nothing.

I'm not saying text-to-CW is the only way to reap the benefit of modern
digital signal processing ... only using it as an example.

People only interested in a contact will probably always prefer
WSJT-X/FT8 because it does that very well, but both contesting and rag
chewing could really use a different (simpler) structure while still
utilizing the superior weak signal peformance of modern digital signal
processing.  I guarantee that it is possible to do so.

73,
Dave   AB7E


On 7/12/2020 6:18 PM, Lyn Norstad wrote:

Enter JS8Call.

All the technology of FT8, plus all of the conversationality of CW,
RTTY and SSB rolled into one.

If you haven't tried it, you really should.  It's developer, Jordan
Sherer (KN4CRD) has done a terrific job with it and I am honored to
have been a part of the beta team almost since day one.

http://js8call.com/

73
Lyn, W0LEN


-Original Message-
From: elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net
[mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of David Gilbert
Sent: Sunday, July 12, 2020 7:40 PM
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: [Elecraft] FT8 - was "On Second Thought, I'll Take The

Stairs"


Well, the fact is that the coding and processing behind modes like FT8
doesn't have to be as rigid as is implemented in WSJT-X.  It only
requires that information be sent and received in time frames, and

those

time frames are simply a function of three variables ... bandwidth,
rate, and number of characters in the message frame.  It would be
possible to change any of those, such as widening the bandwidth to
increase the number of characters for the same time frame.

It would also be possible to send text but have it converted to CW on
the other end.  Or even to key CW that gets converted to text before
transmission ... i.e., CW to CW except with significantly better S/N
performance.  If the user was willing to live with a narrow bandwidth
single conversation format, clock synchronization isn't even really
needed.   And if we were willing to live with a single conversation
format, there would be no point in cramming everyone into 2.4 KHz and

we

could spread out like we do for every other mode.

I'm no expert, but I think that the coding could have enough error
checking to allow busted message frames to be printed (or converted to
CW) ... although of course with errors.  The extra error processing
would reduce the character count, though, all other things being

equal.

The point is that the digital signal processing behind FT8 is

extremely

powerful and could be adapted to other user formats with a lot more
flexibility than we have with FT8.  The hams who just dismiss FT8 out

of

hand really don't understand the broader weak signal applicability of

it.

73,
Dave   AB7E



On 7/12/2020 4:53 PM, Lynn W. Taylor, WB6UUT wrote:

Yeah, great, reliable at or below the noise floor, but if all you're
doing is meeting the somewhat arbitrary minimum that defines a QSO,
what's the point?

I mean 

Re: [Elecraft] FT8 - was "On Second Thought, I'll Take The Stairs"

[Rick Bates, NK7I]

Just as one can go from an electric or petroleum powered vehicle back to 
cart and horse (the common factor being wheels), doesn't mean that the 
history to get from there to here must be ignored (or honored).


It doesn't matter the mode, ties into history will still exist and can 
be honored (or ignored), even if elements are destroyed (statues or old 
unused modes).  And ham radio excels at exploring modes and methods.  
FT8 (and RTTY before that) is merely a stopping point on the line of 
history, something 'better' will come along (always has, always will, a 
constant) to fill the (momentary) needs.


The primary advantage (to some) of CW or phone is that it's human brain 
effort and skill, via the radio technology, that gives a sense of 
accomplishment (pride) while for some including the ties to history, the 
paths taken to get here.  For others, a complete technological contact 
with minimal effort, is what they seek and the world of ham radio allows 
that too.


All modes are valid and equal; just as casual, contest or rapid fire DX 
appeals to some, it suits the needs and purpose of the operator; to 
ENJOY what is available.


My satisfaction comes from using different modes (lately FT8 while it's 
popular AND CW and phone) to prove access to all parts of the planet 
(DXing) with a station that I assembled and built from what I could 
afford or manage to do the best (sometimes easiest) I can manage.  My 
'competition' is me, my motivation is always to do better.  I confine it 
with other limits too (budget, space used) because I don't want numerous 
towers or a super station and because that would affect my other 
enjoyable concerns (the view for one).


My preference is for a complete, simple station but that also means a 
group of single point failures exists (one of my choices).


If another has different ideals, there is room for that too, it's a 
personal set of choices.


Rick NK7I


On 7/13/2020 12:59 AM, David Gilbert wrote:


Fine, but that demarcation is pretty arbitrary.  You could just as 
easily go back to tube gear with crystal controlled transmitters and 
regenerative receivers., but I'd be a lot of money you don't. The gear 
you operate compares little in form, fit or function to anything those 
folks used back then.  Your current radio almost certainly has a lot 
of digital signal processing already, and I'll bet you use a keyer 
instead of a hand key.  Quite frankly, I can just as easily imagine 
somebody at his keyboard on the other end as I could if he was 
operating a paddle.  Most DXing and almost all contesting is already 
somebody simply pounding on a function key on a keyboard.

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Re: [Elecraft] KPA500 max heat sink temp?

[Rick Bates, NK7I]

Then you haven't used a KPA1500.

Rick NK7I


On 7/8/2020 2:11 PM, Eric Norris wrote:

Thanks, Jack!  Now the only question is, is the KPA500 a great amp, or the
greatest amp ever?  I'm in the second camp.

73.5  Eric WD6DBM

On Wed, Jul 8, 2020, 1:16 PM Jack Brindle  wrote:


I can confirm that KPA500 V1.00 firmware, which was the first released,
had a max temperature of 90 degrees C. This has not been changed in any
subsequent code.

As for the input power, the amplifier has improved over time. My original
prototype KPA500 requires power in the range described (about 35 - 40
watts), while my new one (just over a year old) needs about 20 or so watts.
Both are great amps!

73!
Jack, W6FB



On Jul 8, 2020, at 1:00 PM, William Hammond via Elecraft <

elecraft@mailman.qth.net> wrote:

Hi Eric, My manual (revision B, 2011) that came with my SN 0149 says 90C

maximum, page14 in the specifications.  It also says drive power 30-40
watts for 500 out and I have never beed even close to that, usually 22-26
watts drive.

FYI,
Bill-AK5X


On Jul 8, 2020, at 6:00 AM, Eric Norris 

wrote:

I just read in the current KPA500 Manual that max heat sink temp is 90C.
Is this true for my first-year production KPA500?  I seem to remember
somethink like 75C.  I cant find my old manual.

73 Eric WD6DBM
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Re: [Elecraft] Future of KPA500 & KAT500

[Rick Bates, NK7I]

Having both plus the KPA1500 (same height as the K4), that would be a 
challenge without a major rework.  Not just in squeezing it in, but 
still allow for adequate cooling.


If they choose to go down that path, I'd hope they keep the third 
antenna port (only two on the KPA1500).


As for their long term plans; we know they listen but are sly in 
responding until it's time to announce.


73,
Rick NK7I


On 6/17/2020 7:19 AM, hawley, charles j jr wrote:

Hey, that's a thought. Reinvent them to match the height of the K4 and maybe 
include the tuner inside the KPA500 box.

Chuck Hawley
  c-haw...@illinois.edu

  Amateur Radio, KE9UW
  aka Jack, BMW Motorcycles

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Re: [Elecraft] MFJ 1234

[Rick Bates, NK7I]

I've used (successfully) a USB relay to momentarily toggle AUX line 8 (? 
check) to remotely power the K3 on but now I've switched to the N6TV 
S-Box-USB and Y-Box system, which works in much the same way (and can 
remotely power on the Elecraft amps, cleans up cabling etc.).


Both methods require a computer that runs the 'turn on' file in bootup, 
OR being able to access that file from the main screen.  I have no 
problem leaving the station on at all times.


For whatever reason, only when I was > 1000 miles away did the power 
blip and the K3 wasn't there.  It got old to have someone go in, just to 
turn the radio off.  These methods took away that worry.


Even something as 'silly' as a Raspberry Pi toggling that AUX line once 
every XX minutes would work (and could provide other features).


73,
Rick NK7I


On 6/14/2020 1:44 PM, Kenneth Christiansen wrote:

Turning on the K3S is the one problem I have. I have to make sure it is on when 
I go. I would need another program to apply a ground momentarly to a pin of the 
K3S. I know there are programs that can do that but in my case it is not worth 
it to me to do it.  If the home AC blinks than I am off the air until I get 
home. I could make a delay timer to apply a ground pulse say in about an hour 
after the power returns or some kind of remote pulse for my land line but ???
Sorry

Ken W0CZ.   w...@vi29.net

Sent from my iPhone


On Jun 14, 2020, at 1:17 PM, NS9I WI  wrote:

How do you turn the K3S on?

t u 73 Dwight NS9I


On 6/14/2020 12:28 PM, Kenneth Christiansen wrote:
Hi Jim
I bought a 1234 in March of 2020.
I am using this iPhone 10 XR and NO-IP to control it from remote locations. CW 
worked right away and SSB needed three menu changes to the K3S. The monitor for 
SSB must be set to minimum, MIC+LIN must be set to off and MIC SEL must be set 
to LInE In.
I have checked into the Sunday morning 160 meter net remotely and everyone says 
it sounds fine.
One thing I like a lot is the 15 macros I have been able to write into the 1234 
to allow me to make changes remotely in the event I forget to do it before I 
go.  I work 160 SSB and CW on 80 - 10. I can change antennas on the K3S and 
tune them from the remote. 160 uses a dipole and the rest of the bands a 
vertical. Good luck. I had another remote but quit using it years ago because I 
had to always change several cables and it did not have many Macros. This one 
lets me change and get on the air anyplace with my phone as long as the K3S is 
on.
Ken W0CZ.   w...@i29.net
Sent from my iPhone


On Jun 14, 2020, at 11:01 AM, James Holohan  wrote:

Hi.
 Just wondering if anyone has used the MFJ 1234 Server with a K3S? I'm 
thinking of purchasing one but I'd like to hear from anyone with experience of 
using it.
Jim EI4HH
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Re: [Elecraft] Computer Monitor Recommendations

[Rick Bates, NK7I]

I went with a 50" 4K TV (LG from Costco ~US$300) mounted to the wall 
behind the operating desk.  If your computer can manage 4K video (or 
even HD), LOADS of space to see (don't need my readers) and spread 
things out and being a smart TV, it has other features for the shack but 
I added a Dish Joey too.


I've been using full QRO, all bands, no issues in receiving, no 
artifacts on the TV and it's cheaper than a monitor plus it has speakers 
so the desk has less on it.


The new shack is still coming together, but it's looking better each 
upgrade.  (I'd send a pic but I don't think qth.net allows that, so I'll 
update my QRZ page within a day or two.)


73,
Rick NK7I

On 6/13/2020 7:12 AM, Morgan Bailey wrote:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B075PMWCKS/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o08_s00?ie=UTF8=1
These
are great monitors. We use them in the hospital. RF pretty much immune. No
RFI generation and great for reading and Logging programs. Plus, They come
with 3 sets of cables. HDMI, VGA, Display port. I have 2 of these mounted
on this:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B009S750LA/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o07_s00?ie=UTF8=1
  .
Then I took 2 band clamps to the pole and mounted this:
https://www.amazon.com/Lenovo-ThinkCentre-Desktop-i5-6500T-Windows/dp/B07QGLC4FW/ref=pd_rhf_ee_p_img_4?_encoding=UTF8=1=BPF1Q6NJ43K17FSHV78W
. It has 6 usb ports, 3 type 2 and 3 type 3. More than enough for an SO2R
set up. 2 for radios, 1 for controller, 2 for separate keyboards and 1 for
mouse. No Usb break out boxes. Clean Setup. The Lenovo is hospital approved
for high rf environments. It is totally a metal box and works great for
logging, web streaming/browsing and light gaming, Guild Wars, EQ, WoW. It
is my set up.

Best of luck in your choices.

73
Morgan NJ8M



On Fri, Jun 12, 2020 at 9:06 AM krug261--- via Elecraft <
elecraft@mailman.qth.net> wrote:


I realize this subject has come up several times in the past; I've been
through the archives. However, computer equipment changes all the time. I
am in the market for a new "quiet" monitor for the station. Are there
monitors people would happily recommend? Conversely, are there
brands/models you would keep away from? Or even a type of monitor you would
not recommend for a shack?

Thanks and 73, Bob, KA2TQV

KX3, KXPA100, PX3
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Re: [Elecraft] Self-fusing liquid electrical tape

[Rick Bates, NK7I]

Or expense?  Lessee... 20 (ground rods including 5 at the tower) times 
$4 per clamp, vs $11-15 for little discernible gains.. adding over $300 
in my grounding solution.  Not a huge amount, but those costs add up 
quickly.  I went with clamps, all buried below grade.


I opted to tie the shop (barn) panel rod to the tower and the house 
panel rod and have a single run out into a field for future (RX antenna) 
use (and simply more earth contact to dissipate).


The copper wire was the cheapest element in play.

Rick NK7I


On 6/5/2020 10:32 AM, Phil Kane wrote:

On 6/5/2020 9:05 AM, Grant Youngman wrote:


Cad-weld isn’t expensive — $11-15 per weld depending on where you buy
the stuff.  Typically sold in kits of 6 one-shot crucibles, and
available for varying ground wire sizes on 1/2” or 5/8” ground rods.

Agreed, but how many of us would go through that exercise?

73 de K2ASP - Phil Kane
Elecraft K2/100   s/n 5402

 From a Clearing in the Silicon Forest
Beaverton (Washington County) Oregon
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Re: [Elecraft] Problems with KRX3A

[Rick Bates, NK7I]

Gareth,

The information you have been given is correct but it's a challenge to 
wrap ones head around the details, a couple are subtle.


It is ultimately the items you have installed (the tuner, with the 
second antenna port) AND the connection of cables to the KRX3 (which 
connector source is chosen), THEN the setting in menu (KRX3 = ANT | BNC) 
to match those choices.


[The KRX3 will listen to ANT 1 | 2 with a tuner OR will listen to MAIN 
(whatever the main RX is using) | BNC; with or without a tuner (I think 
that's all inclusive).]


Then, the use of the front panel to engage which feed is in play, based 
on the options above (ANT 1 or 2; with a tuner| Main or BNC).


In my case, with a tuner (unused, one port to a KPA1500, the other to a 
dummy load) I chose to use the BNC as the RX source for the KRX3, simply 
so I cannot transmit into it, ever, and have diversity reception.  I can 
listen via main or BNC (RX system) and worry less about doing something 
stupid like blowing up the RX system and/or finals.


It also means that if I want the main receiver to hear the RX antenna 
(but transmit on the transmit antenna) I have to move a cable on the K3 
in the back (or provide a antenna switch), both are BNC, one is more 
challenging to reach through the maze of wires.


I'm hoping from the comments, that the K4 will be simpler to configure 
(on the fly) as most of us need simpler as we age ;-)   The most 
difficult part is deciding how one will use the tools most effectively, 
then put the parts in the right place to meet that/those goal/s.


None of which answers your original question.

I don't mean to be pedantic or insulting; I try to be complete because 
it's always the simplest of things that are the most elusive; details 
matter.


Assuming that the menu is set to enable a KRX3 and both SYN are showing 
expected results based on which SYN is installed (you've done this):


Hearing the rx audio 'rush' noise is a good start (use headphones, don't 
mix audio from the main RX); the audio stage is working, now look backwards.


Check the KRX3 filter selection to make sure that (a) the filter (menu) 
choice is correct (right filter) and (b) visually confirm the presence 
of the filter (DOH!) and (c) is actually IN the slot chosen (menu 
setting again).  Nothing is automatic, you tell the firmware what and 
where filters are installed.  (A quick test is to change the filter 
bandwidth on the front panel [B SEL or speaker/headphone audio]; note 
any audio changes from wide to narrow, if any.)


Then (if no success) I would start with actually seeing how the TMP 
cables are connected (you need to know anyway then change if needed to 
meet your goals); ARE they in the correct place; testing them along the 
way for continuity and shorting; then make sure that each is seated 
_fully_ (easy to miss) and correctly (hemostats or very small point 
pliers on the cable metal connector, very gently but firmly; tactile 
senses cranked up, damage is easy).  Do NOT ever pull on the cable itself.


Recheck the menu for the correct source settings again (in particular if 
you made changes).


If still no joy, based on your time difference to CA, an email of your 
test/findings to the repair team at Elecraft would be the best choice.


Please post your results, good and bad so others can learn too.

73,
Rick NK7I



On 5/28/2020 8:54 AM, Gareth M5KVK wrote:

Thanks, Clark
I think I’m going to open her up again and test all the connecting cables.

Never mind, at least I get to use my K2 for a change 

Gareth, M5KVK

From: Clark Macaulay 
Date: Thursday, 28 May 2020 at 16:47
To: Gareth M5KVK 
Cc: Mark Musick , "elecraft@mailman.qth.net" 

Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Problems with KRX3A

Hi, Gareth.

Well...you certainly have a mystery here. I found the documentation in the 
Elecraft manual on this subject a little hard to follow; the book by Fred Cady 
on the K3 is better and, if you'd don't have have it, I highly recommend it.

I think you said on a previous post that you can hear the noise of the SUB when 
enabling it, then you are correct that there is something blocking the signal 
from the antenna.  Assuming the configuration is correct, it might be the cable 
inside the K3 that feeds the signal to the SUB.  When I opened up my K3 a while 
back to add a filter to the SUB. I noticed that one of the little coax cables 
entered the SUB at a pinched right angle (at least it was in mine).  While I 
didn't have a problem, it seemed like it could be a problem if I didn't make 
sure the little connector was firmly inserted.

I'm afraid I'm now beyond my pay grade on this...

On Thu, May 28, 2020 at 11:36 AM Gareth M5KVK 
mailto:gareth.m5...@gmail.com>> wrote:
Thanks Mark
Sadly, Changing the CONFIG KRX3 to be ANT=ATU makes no difference.

Gareth

On 28/05/2020, 16:08, "Mark Musick" 
mailto:markmus...@outlook.com>> wrote:

 HI Gareth,
 Sorry, I sent my previous e-mail to you before seeing this one.
 You have 

Re: [Elecraft] Quiet Ductless HVAC System

[Rick Bates, NK7I]

Just as other appliances sold these days with a motor i.e. washing 
machines, dishwashers...  while digital control may add nice features, 
the noise generated can reduce operator pleasure (or operating hours).


Getting any manufacturer to routinely add filtering (even if under $1), 
won't happen without a lot of customer noise in return.  ;-)


Rick NK7I

On 5/27/2020 10:17 AM, Dave Cole wrote:
Of late, the fans in these systems are speed controlled by PWM.  Nice 
high power square waves...


73, and thanks,
Dave (NK7Z)
https://www.nk7z.net
ARRL Volunteer Examiner
ARRL Technical Specialist
ARRL Asst. Director, NW Division, Technical Resources

On 5/27/20 10:08 AM, Phil Hystad wrote:
I didn’t know that an HVAC system would be an RFI generator.  What 
part of HVAC is the cause of this and is this a recent problem in 
manufacturing units?


Note — I have never lived in a home with AC — never had a need here 
in the northwest (Seattle area).  I probably should add that when we 
go to our condo on Kauai the first thing my wife does is to turn off 
the AC unit.


73, phil, K7PEH


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Re: [Elecraft] WSJT FT8 TX not decoded using K3S TX - Rx ok

[Rick Bates, NK7I]

Specifically Data A mode...


Rick NK7I


On 5/17/2020 6:15 AM, David Herring wrote:

Can you confirm that the K3S is actually in Data mode?

I seem to recall once in my distant past when I was new to digital modes that I 
had my K3 in lsb rather than usb or Data mode. No one decoded anything of mine 
in that instance.

73,
David - N5DCH


On May 17, 2020, at 5:16 AM, HP  wrote:

Afire calling folks on ten who were running as much as +12 on Fri and Sat - and 
no answer
I called a friend across town - He sees the signal and it will not decode. 
While he was listening
he worked two stations on10 so his setup is working (K3S and Signalink)

I hooked up my K3 - Signalink - and it will not decode the K3S tones -decodes 
band signals just fine .
Makes no difference by band 80 or 10 the same and friend same on10 and 15 .
BTW the K3S decodes on air signals just fine.

This apparently happened in past week or so I do more listening than txing . 
Last FT8 qsos
in log were 5 /10 .

I uninstalled and re-installed WSJT -latest versions on both the K3 and K3S . 
No difference.

I went to earlier K3S config file - no difference.

Did an EEINT and still no difference-two different config files.

Makes no difference 5 watts,20 watts ,50 watts out of K3S. ,or 450 watts out of 
KPA . (all into dummy load on both xcvrs.)

Levels out of the computer are essentially same as always both rx and tx . Easy 
to get 4 bars ALC
with 5th flickering . Tones in monitor sound clean and looking at the monitor 
audio on scope they
are clean sine waves . The monitor signals look essentially the same on both 
the K3 and K3S.

Tried looking at recovered audio tones both ways - they look pretty much the 
same but hard to tell
dummy load to dummy load because of residual rx noise on the tones. Guess I 
could see if I could arrange to get
more signal.

Rig works on CW as always - dd not mess with SSB - Maybe I should look at two 
tone tomorrow --
or at least listen to it on SSB.

I restored computer W10Pro 64 bit to several updates ago and no change.
Rebooted computer - restarted programs . Clocks are within a tenth of a second.

I am out of ideas -other than to change the K3S over to using the Signalink 
instead of the USB/internal codec.
Guess I will do that later today since its 4 m.
Nuts.


Hank K7HP
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Re: [Elecraft] Upper limits of KPA500?

[Rick Bates, NK7I]

I didn't add the obvious, FT8 in that manner is a 50% duty cycle but 
with enough time to 'catch the breath'.


I remember back when it first came out, Wayne suggested to 'run it with 
all the LEDs lit' or something along that line but... it's capable of 
MUCH more than 500 watts and wisely better limited by firmware upgrades 
(in the early days I watched it put out almost 700, at which point I was 
far more cautious).  It's nice to know there is a certain amount of 
'overhead'.


Rick NK7I


On 5/3/2020 8:23 PM, Dave Cole wrote:

Hi Rick,
That is how mine behaves as well, almost exactly like that... However, 
I will be running SSTV, and that is hard on the amp...  I need to do a 
bit more testing prior to that.


As someone else said upthread, half power is really tough on the amp...

73, and thanks,
Dave (NK7Z)
https://www.nk7z.net
ARRL Volunteer Examiner
ARRL Technical Specialist
ARRL Asst. Director, NW Division, Technical Resources

On 5/3/20 7:52 PM, Rick Bates, NK7I wrote:

I spent 15 minutes active on 20M FT8 this afternoon (some lurking).

At 530 watts output (on the display and utility) into a 1.13:1 
antenna load (SteppIR) for a ten minute calling period (Mongolia then 
Oman), the temp rose to 66C; a few moments of elevated fan quickly 
brought that down to the low 60's between transmissions.


Ambient room temp 77F.  (Both calls succeeded.)

Rick NK7I
North Idaho

On 5/3/2020 7:42 PM, Andy Durbin wrote:
"It is interesting to hear how others experience their KPA500s over 
various conditions."


I have over a years's worth of KPA500 data recorded but it takes 
some effort to run it through the Excel templates to make pretty plots.


My KPA500 temperatures are strongly influenced by ambient 
temperature.  Shack temperature is often over 30 deg C in the summer 
months and it's not at all unusual for my fan to run at level 3 in 
FT8 QSO.  I think I have only reached fan speed 5 twice and that was 
while running temperature tests not while operating.   I terminated 
those tests at fan speed 5 and didn't wish to push it any higher.


So many people seem to think reducing the output power will keep the 
temperature down.  It does not.   Half power is about the worst heat 
dissipation condition for the KPA500.


73,
Andy, k3wyc
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Re: [Elecraft] Upper limits of KPA500?

[Rick Bates, NK7I]

I spent 15 minutes active on 20M FT8 this afternoon (some lurking).

At 530 watts output (on the display and utility) into a 1.13:1 antenna 
load (SteppIR) for a ten minute calling period (Mongolia then Oman), the 
temp rose to 66C; a few moments of elevated fan quickly brought that 
down to the low 60's between transmissions.


Ambient room temp 77F.  (Both calls succeeded.)

Rick NK7I
North Idaho

On 5/3/2020 7:42 PM, Andy Durbin wrote:

"It is interesting to hear how others experience their KPA500s over various 
conditions."

I have over a years's worth of KPA500 data recorded but it takes some effort to 
run it through the Excel templates to make pretty plots.

My KPA500 temperatures are strongly influenced by ambient temperature.  Shack 
temperature is often over 30 deg C in the summer months and it's not at all 
unusual for my fan to run at level 3 in FT8 QSO.  I think I have only reached 
fan speed 5 twice and that was while running temperature tests not while 
operating.   I terminated those tests at fan speed 5 and didn't wish to push it 
any higher.

So many people seem to think reducing the output power will keep the 
temperature down.  It does not.   Half power is about the worst heat 
dissipation condition for the KPA500.

73,
Andy, k3wyc
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Re: [Elecraft] About my capacitor failure (etc.) issue:

[Rick Bates, NK7I]

No!  That is the CORRECT thing to do; all grounds should equal ground.  
You should reconnect that to the chassis ground, it is not a design flaw.


Rick NK7I

On 4/24/2020 12:11 PM, Ray Albers wrote:

Finally, I'll mention that, like my old RS-20A, I found the negative
terminal bonded to the case. I consider this bad practice so I removed that
bond.

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Re: [Elecraft] K4/0

[Rick Bates, NK7I]

Here is the link of the video which demonstrates the remote features 
(another K4 or a tablet) management (it wasn't an iPad and wasn't 
defined in the video).


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_m2xXjeqJYM

Rick NK7I


On 4/24/2020 9:30 AM, Buck wrote:
As I recall, it was an iPad running a Windows emulation.  That's too 
much for my feeble brain to comprehend.


Buck, k4ia
Honor Roll
8BDXCC
EasyWayHamBooks.com

On 4/24/2020 12:25 PM, Grant Youngman wrote:
I believe it was a Windows tablet.  My recollection is that the 
message was that iPad support would come later.  There may have been 
some progress, but I haven’t seen anything new officially from 
Elecraft.  Might have missed it though.


I’m personally hopeful that there will be a fully functional macOS 
app for remote operation.  I run Windows 10 under Parallels to 
support several ham apps for which the developers have decided that 
Windows and only Windows is necessary.  But that would be an 
unfortunate and unnecessarily messy model to embrace.


Grant NQ5T



On Apr 24, 2020, at 12:06 PM, Gmail  wrote:

It was a tablet, I’m not sure it was an IPad
Ray
W8LYJ

Sent from my iPad


On Apr 24, 2020, at 09:15, Mark Musick  wrote:

Steve,
I don't have a link, but if you watch the video from Dayton last 
year you will see Eric demonstrating the K4 using an Ipad. No need 
for a K4/0. You'll be able to remote to it via a tablet, PC and I 
would expect an app to remote via a smartphone.


73,
Mark, WB9CIF


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Re: [Elecraft] Elecraft K3s, etc. bonding

[Rick Bates, NK7I]

And in the meantime, lightning protection helps to reduce the noise and 
risks of 'everyday' static noise sources like wind, snow, blowing dust 
and even rain static.  HELPS, not removes.


Having (last fall) just installed a basic dissipation system, the 
difference can be quite startling and can allow one to hear a LOT 
better.  My noise floor also dropped from 10-35 dB with an average of 20 
dB the moment I tied it into the existing house safety grounds.  And 
that was not only increased safety but was cheaper than most low band 
reception arrays (which I'll add as well). 'New' DX; SCORE!


Just as any other station feature, one can continue to enhance or 
upgrade lightning protection and bonding over time until there is less 
return than cost expended.


One more often forgotten note:  ALL wiring coming into a building, must 
be bonded to the common safety ground; satellite dishes, telephone/DSL 
wires, cable TV... ALL of them or lightning will 'find a way' to ruin 
your day.


Rick NK7I


On 4/23/2020 10:44 PM, Vic Rosenthal wrote:

Serious lightning protection is something else, and can be very expensive. But 
although bonding the equipment won’t protect you against direct lightning 
strikes, it does help to keep everything at the same potential and reduce the 
possibility of damage from less violent static discharges.

Victor 4X6GP
  

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Re: [Elecraft] Latest on the new home for my K3...

[Rick Bates, NK7I]

My design goal is:

PL259 - Antenna loads (dummy load on one port, switched)
BNC - Receive Only antennas
N/SMA/TNC - UHF (radio dependent)

no adapters allowed.

Rick NK7I


On 4/23/2020 9:18 AM, Dave Cole wrote:

That's another good idea, and thanks!!!  I will do that!

73, and thanks,
Dave (NK7Z)
https://www.nk7z.net
ARRL Volunteer Examiner
ARRL Technical Specialist
ARRL Asst. Director, NW Division, Technical Resources

On 4/23/20 8:44 AM, Gary Peterson wrote:
I almost forgot to mention that when making up the patch cables, use 
colored heat shrink on both ends of the outside of the coax, adjacent 
to the connectors.  If there is a jumble of patches, it is much 
easier to quickly see what is patched to what.


I love patch panels.  If anyone is planning a patch panel and does 
klutzy, brain fart things like I occasionally do, maybe this will help.

Gary
K0CX

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Re: [Elecraft] KPA1500 Tuner Question for the Group

[Rick Bates, NK7I]

The KAT500 utility will show the LC values in play after tuning (and 
caps on/not on the antenna side) .  I expect that the KPA1500 utility 
will do the same thing; I'll know more next week when I put the KPA1500 
online (the new station and shack are almost completed).


I keep the entire station, including the KPA500 and KAT500 utilities 
running 24/7/365; this allows simpler remote station operations.  Plus 
it's nice to compare the SWR on both devices (though neither has ever 
been different from the other); belt and suspenders.  I don't keep the 
amp(s) on all the time, just when I'm actively using the station.


Rick NK7I


On 4/23/2020 12:18 AM, Ignacy wrote:

MFJ-998 seems to tune anything. I am always trembling that it will smoke, but
for 5 years, no smoke. Even matching 80m dipole (fed by ladderline) on 40m.

It has 2 outputs and keeps matches in memory. Getting it to tune at
frequency previously tuned takes a fraction of a second. If both antennas
were used at same frequency, tuning for one antenna automatically brings
tune in the second. Very convenient for A/B comparisons.

The tuner displays L, C and SWR.

Ignacy, NO9E




--
Sent from: http://elecraft.365791.n2.nabble.com/
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Re: [Elecraft] KPA1500 Tuner Question for the Group

[Rick Bates, NK7I]

I use resonant antennas now, but prior to this the KAT500 and before 
that the Heathkit SA-2060 (which can use darn near anything).


Antenna Tuner SA-2060 Amateur-D Heathkit Brand, Heath Co.; B


It is safely stored away, one never knows if it will be needed again.

Rick NK7I


On 4/21/2020 7:59 AM, Lyn Norstad wrote:

Since the tuner built in to the KPA1500 is not able to handle the full power
of the amp at a 10:1 SWR (like the KAT/KPA500 Combo), what tuner(s) are you
using if you need that kind of matching capability (i.e.: for balanced feed,
etc.)?

  


73

Lyn, W0LEN

  


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Re: [Elecraft] Power supply for KS

[Rick Bates, NK7I]

Simply verify that the panel voltage is the same was what a known meter 
reads at the output, adjust the front panel meter as required.  (Most 
panel displays are off or simply not as accurate.)  Then one can use a 
permanent marker to place a line on the meter display, off the tip of 
the needle to quickly see any variance (in time, you'll squint less).


Rick NK7I


On 4/20/2020 1:10 PM, John Simmons wrote:
The same supply is sold under the DURACOMM name. I believe there is a 
pot accessible through a hole in the case to adjust the voltage.


My $0.02: I prefer supplies that are in a desktop case with meters for 
current and voltage. The meters give me peace of mind and add 
information and ambience to the ham shack. The Astron SS series seems 
to be good.


-de John NI0K

Richard Donner wrote on 4/20/2020 2:59 PM:

Hi Ken
Thanks for the info.
I am  not in a rush yet.   I noticed that the voltage is 13.4.. Maybe a
little higher might be better.  Not sure on the last point.
I will check what else they make
TU   73
Richard


On Mon, Apr 20, 2020 at 12:51 PM Ken Winterling  
wrote:



Richard,

I use an IOTA DLS-55 SMPS power supply (
https://www.iotaengineering.com/dls55.htm).  It provides 55 amps, 
doesn’t
produce RFI, is audibly quiet, and rugged.  The dimensions are 9.7" 
x 6.7"
x 3.4" and the weight is 5.0 lbs.  Mine is on 24/7/365.  IOTA also 
makes

them in other output voltages and currents.

Ken
WA2LBI


On Mon, Apr 20, 2020 at 15:21 Richard Donner 
wrote:


I need  to get a new power supply for my upcoming K4 and accessories
before
my present 40 year old supply goes belly up.
I want reliability and no fussing , fixing or modifying things. Any
recommendations.
I heard that some of the old brands are not what they used to be.
Thanks,
Richard   wa6kyr


--

Ken
WA2LBI

Sent from one of my mobile devices


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Re: [Elecraft] Power supply for KS

[Rick Bates, NK7I]

Wayne has said that 14.2V is desirable (as read on the display, so 
~14.4V at the source AND the input connector at the radio).  This 
provides a more clean signal.


It's also important to not allow voltage sag under load (for the same 
reasons).


Just make sure that if the power supply causes noise, that you can 
return it without cost.  Then your decision is switcher vs analog, each 
work well; each have issues or 'features'.


73,
Rick NK7I

On 4/20/2020 12:59 PM, Richard Donner wrote:

Hi Ken
Thanks for the info.
I am  not in a rush yet.   I noticed that the voltage is 13.4.. Maybe a
little higher might be better.  Not sure on the last point.
I will check what else they make
TU   73
Richard


On Mon, Apr 20, 2020 at 12:51 PM Ken Winterling  wrote:


Richard,

I use an IOTA DLS-55 SMPS power supply (
https://www.iotaengineering.com/dls55.htm).  It provides 55 amps, doesn’t
produce RFI, is audibly quiet, and rugged.  The dimensions are 9.7" x 6.7"
x 3.4" and the weight is 5.0 lbs.  Mine is on 24/7/365.  IOTA also makes
them in other output voltages and currents.

Ken
WA2LBI


On Mon, Apr 20, 2020 at 15:21 Richard Donner 
wrote:


I need  to get a new power supply for my upcoming K4 and accessories
before
my present 40 year old supply goes belly up.
I want reliability and no fussing , fixing or modifying  things. Any
recommendations.
I heard that some of the old brands are not what they used to be.
Thanks,
Richard   wa6kyr


--

Ken
WA2LBI

Sent from one of my mobile devices


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Re: [Elecraft] USB Noise core gets hot when operating FT*?

[Rick Bates, NK7I]

Jerry,

Ignoring how you've set up your station for the moment (every station 
has compromises but some push that to an extreme); the shutdown  of the 
connection is likely that RF got into the USB cable (as demonstrated by 
the hot ferrite) which caused the USB port hardware to lock up.


USB hardware can 'stick' so it won't work properly, a complete power 
cycle empties it of any charge, 'unsticking' the hardware.  (Yah a gross 
simplification, but you get the point.)


The only SURE way to restore it to function (assuming it's not blown) is 
a complete power down (unplugged from all power, let the power supply 
drain, disconnect the laptop battery, count another ten seconds) and 
restart.  That is why it worked after you 'cooled it off'.


If you can shift to a real serial port (not a serial dongle), that will 
help.  USB is RF intolerant compared to serial.  It's simplest to avoid 
USB as much as feasible near any RF.


If you can't avoid USB, you'll need to add a lot more ferrite or better 
yet, improve the antenna situation dramatically.


In the cases I MUST run a USB connection, I distance the antenna from 
the computer as much as possible and I run <100 watts (QRP to me), but 
generally that's when I run a portable station.  Jim, K9YC will tell you 
it's related to 'Pin 1' and the short version is that is has to do with 
bonding all things to a common ground; USB devices often ignore this.


In a few cases, improved bonding between the computer and radio /may/ 
help, but I'd have low hopes if the antenna is mere feet away.  Take the 
hot ferrite as a warning sign, it's not a healthy environment.


73,
Rick NK7I


On 4/18/2020 5:46 PM, ae...@carolinaheli.com wrote:

Today I was working a digital mode (FT8) and lost connection to the radio. I
cycled power with no success. On reseating the USB connection at the
computer I felt the ferrite core was HOT. The cable didn't feel hot at all.
I'm using a 20m hamstick in the office as my antenna. I shut everything down
to cool off. Afterwards everything seems to be working correctly.

Any ideas?

Tnx and 73

Jerry D. Moore

AE4PB

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Re: [Elecraft] Electrolytic Capacitor failure

[Rick Bates, NK7I]

I guess I'm fortunate, I've had Astrons running 24/7 for decades without 
any failure.  A 20A powers my repeater (IRLP node, 25 watt), a 35A power 
the Elecraft products and I just installed a 60A rack mount to replace 
them both (all are adjusted to 14.2 for spectral purity plus I can 
charge LiFePo4 too).


Rick NK7I


On 4/17/2020 12:49 PM, Bob McGraw K4TAX wrote:
I have always been taught and thus have a concern when power supplies 
of excessive capacity are used for any type of service. If the wiring, 
in this case,  between the power supply and the radio is #12 or #14 of 
any length typically supplied by radio companies, should a short occur 
in the power cable, it is likely the power supply will deliver full 
current.  That will quickly melt the insulation on the power cable and 
could cause a fire before the power supply goes into current limit.


Now at the same time, each power cable could be fused at the supply to 
limit the amount of current the supply can drive into the cable.   I 
have to say I don't like this idea as the in-line fuse adds a 
significant amount of resistance and will impact the stability or 
degree of regulation of the voltage at the radio under a dynamic 
changing load such as SSB or CW.


All of this is no different than when one uses a battery for their 
radio.  In auto installations, for that reason, it is highly 
recommended that a fuse or circuit breaker be located at or very near 
the battery.    Same applies here where the supply is capable of 
delivering very high amperage.   I realize power supplies of this 
nature have over current protection.   However, 70 amps through #14 
wire will will produce lots of heat and smoke amazingly fast.


The correct solution is not so simple in one sense of the word. The 
better solution is to use properly rated supplies for the required 
load.   For that very reason, I have two 30 amp CCS rated supplies on 
my desk.  One feeds the Elecraft 100 watt transceiver while the other 
feeds the Tentec Eagle 100 watt transceiver.


All of my supplies have both voltage and current meters and they are 
in a position I can see them when I turn them on.  With supplies which 
do not have meters, when one turns them on, you never know in advance 
and get what they deliver.  In my case, I observe the meters BEFORE 
turning on a radio.  On more than one occasion this has saved a radio 
due to a power supply regulation failure.  Dumping 24 to 32  volts 
into a $3000 radios is not very pretty.   Oh yes, the supplies do have 
OVP, Over Voltage Protection, but I've seen this fail as well and I've 
repaired several supplies where this did fail.   And one doesn't know 
it has failed until the voltage goes to maximum value.   Its too late 
then to find out the OVP circuit has failed.   A meter would have 
prevented radio and accessory equipment damage.


73

Bob, K4TAX



On 4/17/2020 12:28 PM, j...@kk9a.com wrote:
I also use an Astron RS-70 for my K3Ss. Like you, mine was not 
purchased for this purpose. It is under my desk so the physical size 
is not an issue and I have no worries about overloading it.


John KK9A


Barry w2up at comcast.net

I got a kick out of "big hulking supply," too.  I have an RS-70 on my 
K3.  It
used to power a lot more stuff, but since I downsized my station, it 
loafs
along.  Definitely overkill, but it sits under the desk, out of the 
way, so
why not?  Oh yeah, my keyer's on it, too, and still doesn't get warm, 
even

at QRQ :-)

Barry W2UP

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Re: [Elecraft] KPA500 problem

[Rick Bates, NK7I]

It's not elegant but I just finished a rack/table using a butcher block 
top (Home Depot) and angle stock on the front inside of the 2x2 wooden 
legs to mount the p/s and a repeater I use for IRLP (duplexer later, one 
pieces at a time).  The table top is stained and matches the height of 
the desk so there is almost a continuous surface.   Five coats of poly 
should suffice to seal it.  More angle stock from the front to back legs 
will support/share the weight for each item, so it's not entirely held 
by the front.


The K3, P3 and KPA1500 will sit on the desk within reach, just below the 
50" monitor (4K TV) mounted to the wall (swing/tilt mount).  The KPA1500 
amp p/s will sit on the table top but may end up in the rack later.  The 
KAT500/KPA500 will be nearby as backup, easily added if needed.


The next step is to add copper pipe along the equipment space to behind 
the desk for equipment bonding to ground, then add a shelf on either 
side of the monitor to hang speakers, rotor and SteppIR controllers and 
the control head of a dual band with some books too.  (There is also a 
small frig and microwave next to the desk.)  Then put a 36x36" piece of 
plywood on the wall (that wide so it can be well anchored by the 16" on 
center studs) for dual band, 6M FM radio and perhaps more later.


The entire station (and network) is all going to run from a UPS, which 
only has to last long enough for the generator to kick in (about 40 
seconds) so nothing drops out during an outage (except the large amp, on 
240V).


Most of the wiring will be hidden by desk or monitor, except the space 
above the table, where they come in from the tower (large conduits, 
buried in ground).


The floor is industrial laminate, the rack and desk have sliders (easily 
moved when wanted, no wandering).  A computer manages each piece, then I 
can remote into that computer from the warm house or when traveling.


It's a simple station, the 80-6M SteppIR up 60' and an 80/160M Inverted 
L.  Simple ROCKS!


73,
Rick NK7I
North Idaho

On 4/15/2020 10:46 AM, Don Wilhelm wrote:
When I built my operating desk, I made the top a full 36 inches deep 
so the face of the equipment is about 24 inches from the front.  I 
also put the 2 pedestals on appliance dolly wheels so I can roll the 
desk out for access behind the equipment.  There are shelves in the 
back to hold power supplies and all the other stuff that I don't need 
to see on a day to day basis.


I am fortunate to have a fully equipped woodworking shop and can do 
that kind of custom furniture design.  I built the desk from good oak 
and it matches the custom trim and cabinets throughout the rest of the 
house.


73,
Don W3FPR

On 4/15/2020 1:21 PM, Jim Brown wrote:

On 4/14/2020 10:18 PM, Victor Rosenthal 4X6GP wrote:
I chose to place my operating desk two feet from the wall. I refer 
to the area behind it as the "cable vault." This solution is cheap 
in terms of money and effort, but very expensive of space.


Yes. I wish I had thought of doing something like this after seeing 
something similar in N6RO's superstation. My operating position is on 
shelves attached to the wall behind them, held away from the wall 
about 2 inches for cables to pass vertically between shelves. That 
works, but it's a real PITA getting to cables connected to the radios 
and other gear when something must be removed for service, 
replacement, or to go into the field for FD or county expeditions.



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Re: [Elecraft] question on W2 wattmeter interface application

[Rick Bates, NK7I]

You uninstalled and cleaned the registry but did you purge the folders 
of the residue?  That data can be splattered in a variety of places.  It 
can haunt in many ways...  ;-)


Rick NK7I


On 3/19/2020 2:50 PM, Bill Steffey NY9H wrote:
I had uninstalled the app. , then cleared the registry , reinstalled 
it   no difference..


Intrestingly , and now i need to rethiink the installation process,,, 
the app does not appear on the taskline , appearing as a background 
app in task manager.


I agree ccleaner is a great tool...

bill

On 3/19/2020 4:29 PM, Rick Bates, NK7I wrote:


Bill,

I don't have a W2 so I cannot comment there, but two things stand out 
that need mention.


1)  Regedit is NOT the place to wipe out a program.  If you (as you 
said) don't know much about Windows, it is however the perfect place 
to make an unrecoverable error and trash the entire computer.  It is 
one of the core elements of the OS.  If you don't understand, don't 
attempt here, it's a dangerous place to learn (by mistake).


2a) The Windows key (four small window panes) with B /_*may*_//__/ 
bring that errant program back into viewing ability. (Windows B at 
the same time)


2b) Use the Task Manager (right click on the taskbar at the bottom) 
to 'End Task' if you can't get the upper right X to kill it. Ending a 
taskwill lose whatever changes you've made in that application since 
starting it but that's often a cause of the issues too.


If you wish to remove a program, uninstall it. If you wish to clean 
or purge the registry of residue (and other things), use 'CCleaner' 
(Crap Cleaner) which will do it with intelligence and safety.  It is 
free but has the (nasty) habit of wanting to stay running in the 
background, so get into the program settings and turn that 'feature' 
off.  You'll be amazed and how much 'stuff' gets purged if you use 
this app.


When CCleaning a _registry_, run the cleaning cycle again until it 
says nothing found.  Removing one old piece in the registry often 
causes others to not be needed as well.  Three times is 'usually' 
enough passes.


CCleaner MAY not get all the folders that installed software leaves 
behind, you have to hunt and dispose of them manually and CAREFULLY.  
Again, this can be a dangerous place to play if you don't understand.


(I've used CCleaner for years, I'm not a shill.)

After you've done this, then you can reinstall the software if you wish.

Now, back to the topic of the W2 software. Practice safe computing, hi.

73,
Rick NK7I

PS


On 3/19/2020 11:56 AM, Bill Steffey NY9H wrote:

STAY WELL ALL..

got my W2s in circuit...   However my interface ( not the utility) 
software finally finds the W2 but the application stays pinned in 
the let top corner of the main screen. Cannot even find the top bar 
to use the X to kill it.


Tried wiping out the regedit , but it manages to stick up there. 
tried a bunch of stuff.


I know this is my windows ignorance.


bill   ( 1 mile from nearest neighbor, both 89 & 93 years old )

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Re: [Elecraft] question on W2 wattmeter interface application

[Rick Bates, NK7I]

Bill,

I don't have a W2 so I cannot comment there, but two things stand out 
that need mention.


1)  Regedit is NOT the place to wipe out a program.  If you (as you 
said) don't know much about Windows, it is however the perfect place to 
make an unrecoverable error and trash the entire computer.  It is one of 
the core elements of the OS.  If you don't understand, don't attempt 
here, it's a dangerous place to learn (by mistake).


2a) The Windows key (four small window panes) with B /_*may*_//__/ bring 
that errant program back into viewing ability. (Windows B at the same time)


2b) Use the Task Manager (right click on the taskbar at the bottom) to 
'End Task' if you can't get the upper right X to kill it. Ending a 
taskwill lose whatever changes you've made in that application since 
starting it but that's often a cause of the issues too.


If you wish to remove a program, uninstall it. If you wish to clean or 
purge the registry of residue (and other things), use 'CCleaner' (Crap 
Cleaner) which will do it with intelligence and safety.  It is free but 
has the (nasty) habit of wanting to stay running in the background, so 
get into the program settings and turn that 'feature' off.  You'll be 
amazed and how much 'stuff' gets purged if you use this app.


When CCleaning a _registry_, run the cleaning cycle again until it says 
nothing found.  Removing one old piece in the registry often causes 
others to not be needed as well.  Three times is 'usually' enough passes.


CCleaner MAY not get all the folders that installed software leaves 
behind, you have to hunt and dispose of them manually and CAREFULLY.  
Again, this can be a dangerous place to play if you don't understand.


(I've used CCleaner for years, I'm not a shill.)

After you've done this, then you can reinstall the software if you wish.

Now, back to the topic of the W2 software. Practice safe computing, hi.

73,
Rick NK7I

PS


On 3/19/2020 11:56 AM, Bill Steffey NY9H wrote:

STAY WELL ALL..

got my W2s in circuit...   However my interface ( not the utility) 
software finally finds the W2 but the application stays pinned in the 
let top corner of the main screen. Cannot even find the top bar to use 
the X to kill it.


Tried wiping out the regedit , but it manages to stick up there. tried 
a bunch of stuff.


I know this is my windows ignorance.


bill   ( 1 mile from nearest neighbor, both 89 & 93 years old )

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Re: [Elecraft] Case color trivia ...

[Rick Bates, NK7I]

If you print your own, imbed a QR code into the design as well for a 
layer of security if stolen.


Rick NK7I


On 3/17/2020 12:32 PM, Mathew Copeland wrote:

Search any of the stock image sites for "Digital camouflage seamless
pattern" and you can find/sort ones that are tagged as creative commons or
public domain.

You can also use free software such as GIMP to generate your own pattern.
Perhaps using your callsign as a seed for the algorithm.

-Mathew
KM4UXN

On Tue, Mar 17, 2020 at 1:39 PM Fred Jensen  wrote:


Since one can use a KX2 for digital communications, a case with a
disruptive digital pattern [such as CADPAT or MARPAT] would be a joke
only a truly dedicated Nerd would get. [:=)  Nearly all patterns are
under copyright and about the only way to use them is either under
license, or [very difficult] to prove you came up with it totally
independently of the copyright version.  Good luck.

73,
Fred ["Skip"] K6DGW
Sparks NV DM09dn
Washoe County

On 3/16/2020 6:35 PM, Ken G Kopp wrote:

Rose found in the course of her case and cover fabricating business that
most "camo" fabric patterns are copyrighted and therefore many fabric
stores don't sell them.

73

Ken - K0PP
elecraftcov...@gmail.com
1-406-560-3738


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Re: [Elecraft] Off-Topic - Antenna element repairs

[Rick Bates, NK7I]

If you can find a length of tubing one size larger (so that the pieces 
to be repaired just barely fit inside); cut a length long enough to 
provide lateral strength (side load), cut slits into the ends of the 
patch lengthwise then overlay that to 'mend' the two pieces (make it 
continuous again) and use worm gear clamps on the slits to bind it 
together (making sure that the original two parts are close so you don't 
have to trim to resonance).


The overlaid section will be stronger than the original (two layers) if 
you do this correctly and have a long enough patch (which will depend on 
the overall length since length gives leverage).


Some will suggest also adding conductive grease on the elements 
overlapping.  Other may also suggest adding two (at each end) small 
bolts at 90 degrees to each other to back up or replace the clamps 
(belts and suspender mode).  I don't suggest bolts as they're hard to 
realign next time and reduce the amount of material needed at the patch 
(makes it weaker).


I've also (because it was available) taken fiberglass rod and put that 
INSIDE the two aluminum ends, with bolts to keep it in place and a clamp 
to span any distance between the ends.  It worked but isn't as 
electrically sound.


I would not use a pop rivet, it's not bonded hard enough to the elements 
(you'd still need an overlaid section), isn't strong enough over time 
and could create a weak enough contact point for RFI later.  Brazing 
also brings in a dissimilar metal and creates even more issues.


GL es 73,
Rick NK7I


On 3/16/2020 10:06 AM, Fred Jensen wrote:

#3

73,
Fred ["Skip"] K6DGW
Sparks NV DM09dn
Washoe County

On 3/15/2020 3:01 PM, ae...@carolinaheli.com wrote:
I have a vertical antenna to repair and install that I believe is the 
same

as  or close to a hi-gain AV-18HT.
https://www.hy-gain.com/Product.php?productid=AV-18HT.
The main antenna vertical was cut so it could be taken down. I 
purchased it

used in hopes I could repair and install it.
I have two different places that require repair. Purchasing new parts 
for

the element appear to approach the cost of an entirely new antenna.
I'm thinking of three different methods of repair but lack experience.
1. I can braze the elements using aluminum brazing rods and flux.
2. I can get them welded back together but am concerned that the 
tubing is

very thin.
3. I can try to find tubing of sufficient size to put inside and then
pop-rivet/braze the pieces together.

What do you folks suggest?

Thanks in advance. I've collected about a fourth of the wire 
necessary for

the radials.

Jerry D. Moore
AE4PB



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Re: [Elecraft] Off-Topic: Your advice/suggestion about antenna

[Rick Bates, NK7I]

Duane,

I agree on both points.  The antenna is THE most important element of 
any station (the accepted maxim is it's 90% of the budget but most hams 
are 'cheap').  The radio is useless without a decent antenna.  An EDZ 
can work well but the peaks and nulls vary on every band and wind in the 
trees can be an issue.  Height matters, a LOT too.


I also hid (in plain sight) a similar 370' EDZ (at 35') antenna IN the 
HOA space (shot a wire over some oak trees) for years without it being 
seen and it worked well (other than the noise floor was obscenely high, 
all the time because it was urban).  It absolutely ROCKED on 40M (the 
noise precluded hearing much on 160M but I got 15-20 countries).


If budget is less of a concern, you might want to consider SteppIR, 
starting with the 2 element Urban beam (40-6M).  The only other comment 
along that line is leave a LOT of headroom capacity when selecting a 
rotator, they take a lot of wind abuse.  There are other beam antennas 
worth consideration, many are less expensive.


When I moved away from the HOA infestation area into rural with a 40 db 
(average) lower noise floor, in time I went from all band (R7, dipole or 
vertical) wires to a SteppIR DB36/80 (80-6M) which gave me an average of 
another 10 dB of GAIN in reception (plus directivity to null noise even 
further AND transmit gain too).


I bought the antenna, rotor and tower at an estate sale (SK sale), 
saving many thousands of dollars.  The son (a non-ham) just wanted it 
all gone, I assisted ;-) so keep watch, ready to 'attack'.


The sole remaining wire is an Inverted L for 160M.  I greatly prefer 
this to any dipole because the one wire is not pulled/stretched between 
multiple trees when it's windy (and the trees NEVER sway in sync at the 
same moments).  It moves precisely WITH the tree motion, it isn't 
stretched or pulled.  However, it's moderately deaf on 160M, I'll have 
to add an RX array (RBOG or 8 square are the current considerations) yet 
I'm now at 131 countries worked on 160M.


The sole sticking point remaining is my requirement that NOTHING antenna 
can be seen from the house (I bought an amazing view, it came with a 
house), so even with the acres I have, I'm limited to a few acres total, 
further reduced by proximity to the power lines along the road.  
Fortunately my neighbor (700' away) is also an HF active ham with even 
more acres (same visual rule) so we're considering a shared RX array 
(SDR and wifi based, which removes much of the desense issue too).


So my suggestion is that you look at the larger picture and perhaps even 
start fresh, not re-modify the original plans (make it a Revolution, not 
just an evolution).  Part of my move (escape to) here was just for that 
reason, to start with a fresh station based on simplicity of operation 
(which takes a LOT of planning and work to obtain; in a couple years, 
it'll be there, I hope.)


GL,
Rick NK7I


On 3/13/2020 11:19 AM, Lyn Norstad wrote:

Duane -

  


I am of the mind that the antenna is the most crucial part of any station,
and probably the most often maligned.  I have made a number of presentations
to ham groups on the design and construction  process involved in getting
the most bang for the buck, depending on your wants and needs (everybody's
are different).

  


In my own situation (2 acre semi-rural lot approx.150 feet x 600 feet
running E-W feet, and active HOA) the goal was to have a single antenna that
would provide the best primary signal on 80 meters in a North-South
direction, while providing the best possible signal on 40 meters in an
East-West direction, consistent with the 80 meter performance and without
unduly provoking the HOA (or my XYL).

  


I decided on an Extended Double Zepp, cut for 3.5 MHz.  That resulted in a
length of 360 feet, which worked nicely since I have 400 feet clear from the
house (West end) to a perfect tree for the far East end.  And another tree
in the center for support of both the antenna and the feedline.

  


I am feeding it with a 160 foot length of 600 ohm "true ladder line."  I can
go into more detail if this sounds like something that would work.  Modeling
this antenna with EZ NEC shows a maximum theoretical gain of 4.7 dbi in both
North and South directions.  With the ladder line, a dual hybrid balun and
short length of coax into the shack, my KAT500 tunes it very nicely on all
bands 160 m thru 6m.

  


I don't have your call so can't see where you are, but would be happy to
make other suggestions based on the coverage you seek.

  


73

Lyn, W0LEN

  

  


-Original Message-
From: bw...@fastmail.fm [mailto:bw...@fastmail.fm]
Sent: Friday, March 13, 2020 11:52 AM
To: Lyn Norstad; elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Off-Topic: Your advice/suggestion about antenna

  


Hi Lyn - thanks for the reply!

I have 3 acres of wooded land.

Its pretty much on two different levels.

The house is located on the lower level.

And from there the grade 

Re: [Elecraft] Where is Elecraft Support ?

[Rick Bates, NK7I]

And there is a Murphy corollary that basically says: "If the part is 
stockpiled, it won't be the part that is needed."


Rick NK7I


On 3/7/2020 12:46 PM, Jim Brown wrote:

On 3/7/2020 11:15 AM, Alan wrote:
Just as we were ready to go into production the part was 
discontinued.  I had to scramble to figure out some other means to 
perform the function (which meant a PC board turn).


Yes, and for Elecraft, that's a significant expense for a vintage 
product. The better mfrs, like Elecraft, do their best to stockpile 
parts as spares, but there's a limit to what you can do, and the sort 
of curve balls you've described do get thrown. Our emerging worldwide 
health crisis has the potential for damaging, even eliminating, a lot 
of businesses both large and small.


73, Jim K9YC


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Re: [Elecraft] KAT500 antenna selection

[Rick Bates, NK7I]

I'll submit that the KAT500 was designed long before 630 meters was 
generally open and the values needed to present a low SWR are far larger 
than needed elsewhere.  Anything below 160M is a 'specialty' band that 
far fewer will attempt.  However you COULD go through the values that 
the KAT500 offers manually and see if something could work.


You could use an antenna analyzer in SWR mode (fixed freq not sweep) to 
tune the antenna at almost any frequency (at flea power, all legally).


Rick NK7I

On 3/7/2020 11:09 AM, Lyn Norstad wrote:

Andy -

You bring up some good points, and I will be watching for the input from the
assembled brain trust.

One issue I have with the KAT500 is that it only goes down to 160 meters.
My previous tuner would handle much lower frequencies, allowing me to work
630 meters.  No such luck with the KAT500.  If there is a workaround, I'd
like to hear what it is.

Also keep in mind that tuning it on "off band" frequencies requires that you
transmit a signal of at least a minimal value ... which is technically not
legal.

73
Lyn, WØLEN


-Original Message-
From: elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net
[mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of Andy Durbin
Sent: Saturday, March 07, 2020 11:10 AM
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: [Elecraft] KAT500 antenna selection

The KAT500 has continuous frequency coverage for saving and selecting tuning
solutions and is not constrained to amateur band limits.  However, the
antenna selection can only be defined for the amateur bands.

Does the KAT500 simply use the antenna selection defined for the amateur
band closest to the out of band operating frequency?

73,
Andy, k3wyc
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Re: [Elecraft] Extra Protection For KPA500?

[Rick Bates, NK7I]

On 3/6/2020 12:00 PM, Bob McGraw K4TAX wrote:
It is more like having a 500 watt transceiver that covers 160M - 6M 
and works any mode I desire.   Now, that ain't bad!



Just WAIT until you get the KPA1500, then you'll have to ask "CAN that 
smile get ANY bigger?"  0.1-1500 watt radio, you decide just how much to 
use, it just keeps playing.


Rick NK7I


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Re: [Elecraft] Extra Protection For KPA500?

[Rick Bates, NK7I]

While you're adjusting the output drive for the amp on each band; make 
sure it's EACH band, including 60M (100 watt limit in the US) and 30M 
(200 watt limit in the US).


Yes, those bands also, because operator error (fatigue, excitement, 
rush, brain slip) WILL happen and having those QRP bands preset in the 
amp could save you grief.


Hope for the best, plan for the worst; this is planning for the worst, 
stuff happens.


73,
Rick NK7I


On 3/6/2020 11:37 AM, Bob McGraw K4TAX wrote:

Tony et al:

Go to the K3S  CONFIG menu and PWR SET.  Set the value to PER BAND.  
Then exit this menu by pressing MENU/CONFIG.  There IS NO value to set 
at this point.   Then with the KPA500 on and in OPER mode, while in 
RX, set the PWR value on the K3S to 20 watts or what ever power you 
wish to drive the amp with for that band. That is saved for that mode 
and band.   Then on to the next band.


When the KPA500 is in STBY mode the power value is what is set on the 
K3S for barefoot operation.  When the KPA500 is switched to OPER then 
the power value is what you have set for that mode and band.   This 
does require the KPA500 to communicate with the AUX cable.   See page 
12 Fig 3 of the KPA500 manual for the configuration.


If you have the K3S, the KPA500 and the KAT500, then see page 5of the 
KAT500 manual, Fig 1 for the correct cables and configuration.


As they say, it is all in the manuals.

73

Bob, K4TAX


On 3/6/2020 1:07 PM, Tony wrote:


Tony, The Config Menu has a Per-Band power setting (PWR SET = PEr 
bAnd) that will set the power output depending on the band selected. 
If you use the Aux cable between the K3 and KPA500 is is fully 
automatic and seamless. 73 George AI4VZ 


George:

I must be missing something because when I select PER BAND in the 
config menu, there's no power setting to set.


It doesn't display the power like TUN PWR does where the tune power 
is shown within that menu item so you can adjust it.


I have to order the AUX cable, but in the meantime I'd like to use 
this setting with the K3S so any suggestions would be appreciated.


Tony


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Re: [Elecraft] Extra Protection For KPA500?

[Rick Bates, NK7I]

Don et al,

On occasion the signal that the amp goes into Operate mode is not passed 
along (or received, I don't know which), which means that the K3 will 
operate at higher than required drive level, for a moment only because 
the KPA500 will fault VERY quickly protecting everything.


However, I am unable to come up with a viable pair of suspenders, so I 
simply try to be more aware when the amp goes hot.


The reverse can be true too; the K3 thinks the amp is still in operate 
(but it isn't) and transmits at lower than expected output.


Yes, I've dis/reconnected the cables, made sure they're snugged in; it's 
not repeatable, it's random.  I do use the two cables (6') which is the 
max allowed between the K3 and KPA, which may also be part of the 
cause.  (Moving it all into a new shack over the next few days, that 
cable length will no longer be required.)


Rick NK7I

On 3/5/2020 2:38 PM, Don Wilhelm wrote:

Curiosity is getting the best of me --
If the built-in protection works well, why do you need more protection?
If the belt works OK, then why add suspenders as well?

If you are operating a K3 or K3S, there is a per band power level that 
can be used.  It will automatically use the settings for the amplifier 
when the KPA500 is set to operate.  That can be considered your 2nd 
level of protection and it guards against "fumble fingers"


73,
Don W3FPR

On 3/5/2020 2:35 PM, Tony wrote:

All:

I'd like to avoid the inevitable situation where one mistakenly 
transmits too much power into an amplifier. I have a KPA500 and the 
protection circuit works well, but I was wondering what can be done 
to add an extra layer of protection?


Tony

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Re: [Elecraft] Unusual Behavior K3S / KPA500 Drive Power Greater Than 12 watts

[Rick Bates, NK7I]

12 watts is the transition point for the high(er) power amp in the K3 to 
engage, so it's feasible that as that happens, the LPA drops it's output 
some to make the set power out (to not immediately put out 100 watts but 
what the reading says it should be).


If the K3S has normal output when you're not adjusting the power out, I 
wouldn't worry about it.


If the K3S in CW is set for the desired power output, phone will be also.

73,
Rick NK7I


On 3/4/2020 6:20 PM, Tony wrote:

Rick Et al:

The K3S makes 110 watts measured so the rigs finals appear to be just 
fine. Audio is also clean with no distortion. After further testing, I 
found that the power drop is only momentary.


The RF output on the KPA500 does drop when the drive on the K3S is 
increased from 12 to 13 watts, but it quickly rebounds to it's normal 
output a few seconds later.


This happens on all bands and only takes place during the transition 
from 12 to 13 watts. I can hear a relay click during the 12 to 13 watt 
increase which happens to coincide with the momentary condition 
described above.


Whatever it is, something changes the way the transmitter behaves 
momentarily during that specific power change and my guess is that 
it's not unique to my K3S.


I spend most of my time on CW and little on SSB so I never noticed 
this before. Other than that, the K3S and KPA500 work flawlessly.


Tony






On 3/4/2020 6:09 AM, Rick Bates, NK7I wrote:
Except that it only happens in SSB, it sounds suspiciously like the 
high power amp (final) has failed in your K3S.  But start with your 
audio.  Are the settings normal (comp, mic gain etc)?


Can you try another microphone and turn on the monitor function to 
hear what your mic is producing?  Is the two-tone function 
accidentally on?


What power output can you read when not using the amp and going above 
12 watts?  If more than 12 watts, a calibrate output would be in 
order for for your confidence.


Is it confined to one band?

If you don't get direction of the cause from these tests, a phone 
call to Elecraft service is in order.


73,
Rick NK7I


On 3/3/2020 10:48 PM, Tony wrote:

All:

I've noticed an unusual thing happen with my K3S and KPA500 
amplifier while in SSB mode. When I increase the K3S drive beyond 12 
watts, the KPA500 power drops-off dramatically. This only happens in 
SSB mode.


The KPA500 functions fine with other transceivers as well so the 
condition appears to be unique to the K3S. Any suggestions?


Tony

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Re: [Elecraft] Unusual Behavior K3S / KPA500 Drive Power Greater Than 12 watts

[Rick Bates, NK7I]

Except that it only happens in SSB, it sounds suspiciously like the high 
power amp (final) has failed in your K3S.  But start with your audio.  
Are the settings normal (comp, mic gain etc)?


Can you try another microphone and turn on the monitor function to hear 
what your mic is producing?  Is the two-tone function accidentally on?


What power output can you read when not using the amp and going above 12 
watts?  If more than 12 watts, a calibrate output would be in order for 
for your confidence.


Is it confined to one band?

If you don't get direction of the cause from these tests, a phone call 
to Elecraft service is in order.


73,
Rick NK7I


On 3/3/2020 10:48 PM, Tony wrote:

All:

I've noticed an unusual thing happen with my K3S and KPA500 amplifier 
while in SSB mode. When I increase the K3S drive beyond 12 watts, the 
KPA500 power drops-off dramatically. This only happens in SSB mode.


The KPA500 functions fine with other transceivers as well so the 
condition appears to be unique to the K3S. Any suggestions?


Tony

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Re: [Elecraft] Flex6600 + KPA500 + KAT500

[Rick Bates, NK7I]

I'm not sure about how much the Flex demands the CPU, but I have the 
KAT500 Utility and the KPA Utility running while a third port manages 
the K3 (via HRD).  (A 4 port real RS-232 board in the computer, USB 
doesn't always play well in QRO environments; the 4th port manages 
keying CW and FSK while AFSK is still an option.)


These apps give me insight (SWR, power out etc) and control (standby, 
operate. switch antennas) over the transmitting and antenna elements 
(well, add PSTRotator for rotor and SteppIR control).


The key here is to make sure that it all runs on one computer successfully.

Since my station all runs on one computer at the same time, when I 
remote the computer, I remote the station (TeamViewer).  I add in Skype 
for audio (CW and phone).


So yes, it should be possible for you.  One bonus is that you're running 
your station (remotely or not) and no one has to know where you are and 
your log is accurate since it's based on the station location, not yours.


73,

Rick NK7I


On 2/26/2020 8:02 PM, w6mob wrote:

I am trying to run my Flex6600/ KPA500/KAT500 remotely.

Does anyone know if it is possible to hook up a PC & a Flex to a KAT500 at
the same time?

I have the KPA500/KAT500/Flex working together. I also have the KPA500
Remote S/W working on a PC. But I would like to also monitor/control the
KAT500 at the same time.

As best I can tell you can only connect a single KXUSB cable to the KAT.

Any suggestions?

Thanks,
Mick
W6MOB



--
Sent from: http://elecraft.365791.n2.nabble.com/
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Re: [Elecraft] Ivory Coast DXpedition

[Rick Bates, NK7I]

Thanks for the spot, I was elsewhere on the bands and hadn't paid 
attention to 20M (I'm prepping for the VP8PJ team tomorrow).


Logged in under 2 minutes from the listening start; Yay Elecraft (K3, 
P3, KAT500 and KPA500) with some help from SteppIR (DB36/80 at 60').


Another band slot filled, life is good.

Rick NK7I

On 2/22/2020 1:46 PM, Lyn Norstad wrote:

TU5PCT Czech DXpedition to the Ivory Coast is burning up 20 meters FT8 this
afternoon on multiple stations.

  


   https://www.cdxp.cz/

  


73

Lyn, WØLEN

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Re: [Elecraft] KPA1500

[Rick Bates, NK7I]

Presuming that is a known 'good' dummy load for that power level, have 
you run the output calibration of the driver radio (K3/S also presumed) 
as a starting point?


If that has been done (successfully, multiple times), check to make SURE 
that the radio (driver) antenna tuner is BYPASSED (not presenting an odd 
load into the amp).


Watch CAREFULLY that the driver output is constant (no dirty control, no 
spike etc.).


Then it's time to be concerned about the 80M tuned input circuit failing 
on the KPA1500 and call Elecraft for specific tests.  When the amp sees 
>=19 watts input, it wigs out, badly.  (But the extreme outputs ARE 
impressive; it's nice to have overhead at legal limit).


GL, please let us know how it was resolved,
Rick NK7I


On 2/19/2020 9:10 PM, Ed gilliland wrote:

Hello Everyone,

I'm getting the following error codes on 80 meters, 160 and 40 are 
working.


I suspected the 80m antenna so I tried using a dummy load and I get 
the same error codes.  Reducing the input power does not help.


I've reloaded firmware 2.38.

Anyone run into this problem?

Ed W5TM


918 20-02-19T23:00:11 OVR 61 - LOW GAIN  freq 3544 inp 10W 36A 21C adc 
222 power ratio 0
917 20-02-19T22:59:55 OVR 61 - LOW GAIN  freq 3544 inp 14W 43A 21C adc 
275 power ratio 0
916 20-02-19T22:59:31 FLT B0 - PWR DISS  freq 3544 inp 14W 44A 20C pwr 
dissipated 2313W
915 20-02-19T22:59:31 OVR 61 - LOW GAIN  freq 3536 inp 14W 43A 20C adc 
274 power ratio 0
914 20-02-19T22:58:40 FLT B0 - PWR DISS  freq 3536 inp 19W 51A 20C pwr 
dissipated 2676W
913 20-02-19T22:58:40 OVR 61 - LOW GAIN  freq 3536 inp 19W 51A 20C adc 
330 power ratio 0

912 20-02-19T22:55:01 ON  00 - ON  3 times firmware version 02.38
911 20-02-19T22:39:38 FLT 61 - LOW GAIN  freq 3536 inp 10W 36A 23C adc 
223 power ratio 0
910 20-02-19T22:39:38 OVR 61 - LOW GAIN  freq 3544 inp 10W 36A 23C adc 
222
918 20-02-19T23:00:11 OVR 61 - LOW GAIN  freq 3544 inp 10W 36A 21C adc 
222 power ratio 0
917 20-02-19T22:59:55 OVR 61 - LOW GAIN  freq 3544 inp 14W 43A 21C adc 
275 power ratio 0
916 20-02-19T22:59:31 FLT B0 - PWR DISS  freq 3544 inp 14W 44A 20C pwr 
dissipated 2313W
915 20-02-19T22:59:31 OVR 61 - LOW GAIN  freq 3536 inp 14W 43A 20C adc 
274 power ratio 0
914 20-02-19T22:58:40 FLT B0 - PWR DISS  freq 3536 inp 19W 51A 20C pwr 
dissipated 2676W
913 20-02-19T22:58:40 OVR 61 - LOW GAIN  freq 3536 inp 19W 51A 20C adc 
330 power ratio 0

912 20-02-19T22:55:01 ON  00 - ON  3 times firmware version 02.38
911 20-02-19T22:39:38 FLT 61 - LOW GAIN  freq 3536 inp 10W 36A 23C adc 
223 power ratio 0
910 20-02-19T22:39:38 OVR 61 - LOW GAIN  freq 3544 inp 10W 36A 23C adc 
222


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Re: [Elecraft] When might there be a P3 sale or drop in price

[Rick Bates, NK7I]

And don't forget that the P3 is actually an almost complete receiver 
(minus audio).  It just 'happens' to listen to the IF of the K3.


Rick NK7I


On 2/17/2020 9:16 AM, George Thornton wrote:

That was my experience as well.  I initially had the LP Pan but later switched 
to the P3 panadapter.

The P3 in my experience is far easier to use under practical operating 
conditions.  You can widen or shorten the span to zoom in on a narrow part of 
the band, or zoom out to see across the band.  You can easily adjust to put the 
noise floor at the bottom of the screen and adjust the height of signals so it 
all becomes more easy to follow.All of this can be done quickly with one 
hand.

I like my toaster and I don't regret buying it.





-Original Message-
From: elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net  On 
Behalf Of Craig Buck
Sent: Monday, February 17, 2020 7:48 AM
To: ae...@carolinaheli.com
Cc: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] When might there be a P3 sale or drop in price

P3 doesn't have a mouse point-and-tune feature that I know of.  LpPan with
NaP3 software does.


On Mon, Feb 17, 2020 at 10:42 AM  wrote:


I've been fighting getting the P3 for years. After trying to get SDR
based pan adapters to work reliably (I like the mouse point and tune
feature) I've decided I want to buy a toaster.

Just plug it in and it works.

A fully loaded 200watt P3 with video card..etc is hard to swallow when
I can buy a new HF rig with the Pan adapter built in for less.

Are there plans to have a sale or bigger discount?

My time frame for purchase is March. I'll probably be going to the
Charlotte, NC Hamfest for the purchase unless I'm on call that week.

Thanks in advance.



Jerry Moore

AE4PB





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Re: [Elecraft] QRO - KPA500 Failure

[Rick Bates, NK7I]

They self-insure OUTbound from Elecraft; it falls on the shipper to 
insure, not the recipient.


I had to send in the RF deck (only) of the KPA1500 for factory upgrades 
and I asked for Elecraft to cover shipping.  I waited a few days.


An hour after I got back from shipping it UPS from Idaho (the insurance 
was a killer, total bill ~$180), they approved paying for it.  DOH!


Ask, then be more patient than me.  The worst answer is 'no' and that 
only costs you time to find out.


Rick NK7I

On 2/6/2020 1:28 PM, Hisashi T Fujinaka wrote:

I'm not sure who asked the question first, but check your email from
Elecraft support about shipping. I was told Elecraft self-insures, so my
shipping of my KPA1500 amp from Portland, OR to the mothership was
around $20.

On Thu, 6 Feb 2020, Rick Bates, NK7I wrote:

While also not cheap in shipping and insurance (ask me how I know?) 
that is often the better choice.


Rick, NK7I



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Re: [Elecraft] QRO - KPA500 Failure

[Rick Bates, NK7I]

Since the SWR is still nominal into the amp (as shown on your radio), 
it's not likely the tuned input circuits (which is confirmed from no 
output on all bands).


This points to the high power module.  Running low output power from it, 
is far less efficient than pushing it hard (compare wattages consumed to 
RF watts output delivered at different output levels); which may have 
stressed the finals.  Ideally you run the previous stages at 
low-moderate power for lower IMD, then punch it up with the amp.


The "HIGH SWR" fault you saw is then very likely the final signing QRT 
SK.  You can confirm that with Elecraft wizards.


That module isn't hard to swap out, but it would be best (slightly more 
costly) for the entire amp to visit it's parents, so that other updates 
that may not have been done, can be done. Many of them, really matter.


While also not cheap in shipping and insurance (ask me how I know?) that 
is often the better choice.


Rick, NK7I

On 2/6/2020 12:54 PM, Michael Walker wrote:

Amps making noises like that usually mean you have to take the covers off.

They are easy enough to repair if you are so inclined.  If not, then you
will need to contact Elecraft support and odds are you will have to send it
home for a Spa day.

Mike va3mw


On Thu, Feb 6, 2020 at 3:35 PM Jim Brown  wrote:


On 2/6/2020 12:15 PM, Jim Mullen wrote:

Any pointers of where to start looking?

1) What SWR does the rig see with the amp off?
2) Make notes of any error messages given by the KPA500 display.
3) Call Elecraft Support

73, Jim K9YC
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Re: [Elecraft] K3 Audio

[Rick Bates, NK7I]

My K3 has the same issue.  It is a hardware issue since software control 
of the volume (HRD) does not cause any problems.


I've not taken the front panel off to see if the pots can be 'treated' 
with Deoxit yet.


73 es Merry Christmas,
Rick NK7I


On 12/19/2019 9:01 AM, Larry Boekeloo wrote:

I have a K3, serial #5278,  that's had an receive audio issue for almost as
long as I've owned it.

When I turn the AF gain nearly or completely counter clockwise, the audio
goes to full volume.  The only way to fix the problem, is to quickly turn
the AF gain back up and down a few times.  Many times, I'll want to turn
the audio all the way to answer the phone or talk to someone in the shack,
and the audio goes to full volume.

Many times, if I reload the DSP software, the issue goes away for a few
months.  I have the latest software loaded.

Anyone else have this problem?  Maybe the AF gain pot needs to be replaced?

Thanks.

Larry, KN8N
Kalamazoo, Michigan
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Re: [Elecraft] The Future of Our Hobby

[Rick Bates, NK7I]

An SWL QSL card would certainly be popular too if you could figure out 
how to send the report! :-P


Merry Christmas all,
Rick NK7I

On 12/16/2019 3:10 PM, David Gilbert wrote:


Neither would ham radio if you could talk to hundreds or thousands of 
other planets or stars, and couldn't do so any other way.  As best I 
know, a telescope is still the only way to observe one.


73,
Dave   AB7E



On 12/16/2019 1:44 PM, Wayne Burdick wrote:
And yet, dabbling in a different part of the electromagnetic spectrum 
-- with simple optical telescopes -- never gets old.


Wayne

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Re: [Elecraft] Excellent Elecraft service!

[Rick Bates, NK7I]

If there is a next time, one can ask for a shipping label from 
Elecraft.  But wait a few days for the response; when I returned from 
shipping the PA deck from the KPA1500 ($170 insured), I got the label in 
the email.  Oh well. It was out of warranty (but unused until the shack 
is completed; very soon now).


I always, always ask for discounts or similar; the worst possible answer 
is 'no', which costs me nothing yet sometimes provides a nice savings.


73 es Merry Christmas,
Rick NK7I

On 12/16/2019 9:53 AM, k7ffn frdmftr.net wrote:

I purchased a KX3 "Shack-in-a-Pack" a year ago, and after making one contact 
QRP at 5-watts, I set it aside in its carrying case while I took care of other 
commitments.  Last week, barely three weeks before the end of the warranty period, I 
brought it out and started working with it, studying the manuals, and figuring out how to 
use it.  I immediately discovered that transmitting into a 50-Ohm dummy load and pressing 
ATU TUNE returned an SWR of 25.4:1.  Discussions with 'Rob,' Elecraft technician, were 
not productive; i.e., the results that should have been obtained weren't there.  
Eventually I discovered that while it said I was transmitting at 5-watts, the RF 
indicator was reading el zippo.  Rob sent me a Repair Service Authorization (RSA) and I 
returned it to Elecraft for repair.  It took two days to get there and one day later I 
received notification that the KXAT3 board had failed, had now been replaced, the unit 
calibrated, and all is copacetic!  I am writing this to cr
  ow about the wonderful service offered by Elecraft, especially approaching 
the Christmas season!  (My only complaint is the $57 it took to ship it and 
insure it for $1400, but that is not their fault.)  I am very happy with 
Elecraft and I am looking forward to doing some serious QRP work when it gets 
back.

73.
--Don Cline, K7FFN
k7...@frdmftr.net

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Re: [Elecraft] KAT-500 problem

[Rick Bates, NK7I]

Check ALL your coax connections (and quality of coax), making SURE that 
the connectors are properly attached (soldered or crimped) to the wires 
AND that they are securely attached to the mated connector on the KAT500.


A /little/ leakage is normal but unless that station is 40 over 9, you 
shouldn't hear it.


My first guess would be that something failed or came loose.

Rick NK7I


On 11/23/2019 1:20 PM, Jack W4GRJ wrote:

Sounds like you have a great receiver
Jack
W4GRJ


On Nov 23, 2019, at 4:14 PM, jdfr...@bellsouth.net wrote:


I have a KAT-500 at least 4 years old.  I can hear stations without any
antennas connected to it.  I live in Clarksville, TN and I copied  station
in Bradenton, FL 600+ miles away on 14.3 MHZ.  I have had the same thing
happen on 40 meters as well.  Any ideas???



KX6F

John Freed

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Re: [Elecraft] K3 push buttons no longer workin

[Rick Bates, NK7I]

You might be able to use a radio control program (HRD being one) since 
the controls simply tell the CPU what to do.  Not ideal but you'd be on 
the air again while researching a proper fix.


73
Rick NK7I


On 11/18/2019 11:46 AM, Mpridesti via Elecraft wrote:

Hate to have to send it back to the factory at this time of the year. Is there 
a work around?

Regards,

Mark, K1RX



On Nov 18, 2019, at 1:15 PM, Christian Friess  wrote:

In my case the 4 rotary encoders had to be replaced.

73 de Chris, DL2MDU


Am 18.11.2019 um 17:44 schrieb Mpridesti via Elecraft:
Specifically the front panel button to select shift Lo Hi Width do not toggle. 
Only stays in FC or BW.

Did a firmware reload (newest from web) and no change.

What’s the fix?

Regards,

Mark, K1RX


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Re: [Elecraft] will utility programs run on Apple Ipad os ?

[Rick Bates, NK7I]

With a linux computer built into the K4, the door is open for wifi (or 
bluetooth) access to an iOS device (or a standard computer).  Unless 
Elecraft designed their own motherboard, it's likely already available 
on the board they're using and if they did roll their own, it may be in 
the chip set chosen for the wired access.  Wayne and team aren't 
ignorant in this want and have done a good job of looking forward when 
designing.


I expect a developer to step up at some point to make this 'simple' BUT 
it may only allow K4 access, not logbook, rotator, tuner, amplifier 
(etc) control.  That would mean more non-wired access.


The the K3 line, I use TeamViewer to access the computer controlling the 
station from any platform I have at hand (and Skype for audio, if CW or 
phone).  This includes my iOS devices. Sometimes the most direct path is 
the simplest.


73,
Rick nk7i


On 11/8/2019 1:17 AM, Nr4c wrote:

How do you plan to connect the iPad to the radio?  The K3 typically connects 
thru a RS232 or USB port.  Neither are available on an iPad.

Sent from my iPhone
...nr4c. bill



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Re: [Elecraft] 4k monitors for the shack, late 2019

[Rick Bates, NK7I]

It would be nice if you want to stream video while in the shack; I'm 
considering one also (but HDTV is much cheaper).  But one feature I 
would need is decent PIP (picture in picture) to watch two things at 
once (computer/radio and video source).


Two major things to consider are look angle and proximity.  If you have 
to look up more than a few degrees, your neck will whine, straight ahead 
is ideal.  If it's too large and close, it will be more difficult to 
take it all in or you move your head...  consider your ergonomics 
carefully, body parts resist movement, more each and every year.  It 
WILL matter, in time (or now).


73,
Rick NK7i


On 11/7/2019 2:38 PM, Grant Youngman wrote:

For ham use in the shack it would be pointless (unless you have money burning 
holes in your pocket).  If you do photography/video editing or graphics as a 
pro — that’s another thing entirely, and where the market for this display 
lives :-)

Grant NQ5T




On Nov 7, 2019, at 5:09 PM, Bert  wrote:

There are always people happy to part with their money! ;-))

Bert  VE3NR


On 11/7/2019 4:59 PM, Paul Gacek via Elecraft wrote:

Only Apple could come up with a desktop display that cost more than the K4.

https://www.apple.com/pro-display-xdr/ 

Paul
W6PNG


On Nov 7, 2019, at 12:47 PM, Tox  wrote:

Hello all,

I'm going to continue to eagerly await a K4 for A While. In the
meantime, I've been reconfiguring a room to become my shack, and am
slowly terraforming it.

I'd like to pick up a couple of HDMI displays to hang on the wall
above/behind the rig and the computer I interface to it. Viewing angle
will be shaded, pretty much on-axis due to location, and it will be
right next to the entry of my feedline. Expected usage would be
waterfall/UI and pskreporter type apps.

What can people suggest for quasi-affordable *RF-quiet* 4k displays in
the 27-40" range? (I'm not averse to buying something like one of the
midtier Samsungs, but do not have enough left in the wallet to
consider things like OLED).

Bonus points for quiet 4k HDMI switchers so I can bring Pis to the party.

Thanks,

Scott
AD6YT
--
Scott Small
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Re: [Elecraft] K3 #2257 woke up deaf this morning ...

[Rick Bates, NK7I]

Also check your filter, NB and NR settings, sometimes they go wonky.

Rick NK7I

On 11/7/2019 8:26 AM, Bob McGraw K4TAX wrote:
Check all connectors.  I've found that connectors that just "sit" and 
are never moved will oxidize and prevent signal flow.   They rely on a 
mechanical connection only.   Just unplug and re-plug 2 or three times 
for each one.


73

Bob, K4TAX


On 11/7/2019 10:12 AM, Mike Flowers wrote:

Hi Folks,


I powered up my trust K3 #2257 this morning and found it deaf. The RF 
and
IF stages appear to be working just fine.  I have 20M FT8 showing 
lots of

signals on my P3, but no audio.


WSJT-X shows no audio from LINE OUT either.


I'm on the right antenna and haven't fiddled with parameters for 
months, so
I am wondering if there is anything I might try/check before taking 
it over

to Watsonville for repairs.


Thanks!


- 73 and good DX de Mike,   K6MKF, NCDXC
  Secretary


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