Re: [Elecraft] Ken Kopp K0PP

[Vic Rosenthal]

What a beautiful tribute.
I too had a lot of help from 20-something hams when I was an annoying teenager.

Victor 4X6GP 

> On 3 Jul 2021, at 2:46, Taylor Monfort  wrote:
> 
> Ken (then W5TKI/4) and Rose Kopp, and Al Fizz (K4QEO) were my mentors.  I
> say mentors, because "Elmers" doesn't cover it.  My mother worked at the St.
> Petersburg public library with Rose.  I was 13, had an avid interest in
> broadcasting radio.  I saw a listing in Sears catalog for a "shortwave"
> radio with a photo of the Eifel Tower and Big Ben.  That was for me!
> International adventure.  Mom facilitated a visit to Ken and Rose's.  Wow
> was that exciting.  He was all CW and had great mil surplus gear, command
> sets, BC-348, etc.  Did I want a license, he asked?  You bet.  He and Al
> patiently taught me CW and theory.  I took the novice and was thrilled to
> receive WN4APB.  Ken, Rose and Al were all of 23 years old.  I can't imagine
> today's typical 23 year-old having the maturity and patience of putting up
> with an impudent 13 year-old to teach him both science and life lessons.
> 
> Without them, my life would have certainly been much different.  Amateur
> radio opened many doors. Immediately out of college, I was hired as a very
> young federal agent most likely because of my radio expertise.  Electronics
> was becoming an important tool for federal law enforcement.  I rose in the
> ranks to supervisory criminal investigator and then chief of technical
> operations due to that background.  I went on to found and run a successful
> broadcasting group.  I probably would not have even gone to law school,
> without the Kopp's influence.
> 
> I maintained contact with Ken and Rose through the years.  They remained the
> dearest of people to me.  Ken and I exchanged numerous emails, and had
> several long telephone conversations about life and radio. Ken directed me
> to my K-3.  Rose made a custom cover for it.  I am a life-long CW amateur
> and that remains a passion of my life.  I look forward to my K-4 and will
> commemorate and think of Ken when I make that first K-4 contact.  I knew Ken
> was not well and did not want this day to come.
> 
> Thanks Ken and Rose Kopp.  161 to you both.
> 
> 
> 
> Taylor  WA4APB
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
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Re: [Elecraft] KPA1500 Power Supply noise

[Vic Rosenthal]

I used to maintain computers used by farmers. I’m surprised they didn’t plant 
crops in them. There was enough soil there. Floppy disks (this was a long time 
ago) were unusable due to the abrasive action of the dirt.

Victor 4X6GP 

> On 28 Mar 2021, at 4:24, Steve Hall <99sun...@gmail.com> wrote:
> 
> Regarding placement of the KPA1500 power supply.
> After repairing and maintaining residential home computers professionally
> for several years, be advised that floor placement will allow 5X the dust
> to be sucked into the unit.  Units with air flow in and out are like vacuum
> cleaners.  I recommend raising the unit, even if only a foot or two, to
> reduce dust intake.  Units on the floor were packed with dust as compared
> to units on desks.
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Re: [Elecraft] Waaay OT: A new kind of QRM to be aware of ... warning issued by FCC today

[Vic Rosenthal]

 My initial thought about being told not use my radio to commit a crime was 
surprise that the FBI wasn’t also sending me an email telling me not to rob 
banks.
I mean, isn’t it sort of obvious that crime is bad?

Victor 

> On 18 Jan 2021, at 2:12, Mike Morrow  wrote:
> 
> So...the FCC *specifically* cites only amateur and personal radio services 
> as illegal for use in crime.
> 
> I wonder how long the list is of radio services that ARE FCC APPROVED for use 
> in crime?
> 
> Silly nonsense this all is.  It does not bring credit to anyone calling 
> attention to this total non-problem.
> 
> Mike / KK5F
> 
> -Original Message-
>> From: K4HYJ via Elecraft 
>> Sent: Jan 17, 2021 4:20 PM
>> To: 'Wes' , elecraft@mailman.qth.net
>> Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Waaay OT: A new kind of QRM to be aware of ...
>> warning issued by FCC today
>> 
>> I feel safer now!!
>> 
>> K4HYJ
>> 
>> -Original Message-
>> From: elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net  On
>> Behalf Of Wes
>> Sent: Sunday, January 17, 2021 5:13 PM
>> To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
>> Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Waaay OT: A new kind of QRM to be aware of ...
>> warning issued by FCC today
>> 
>> Well I'm glad that CNN cleared that up and I'm so relieved to know that
>> Amazon, Apple and Google are protecting me from unmoderated speech.
>> 
>> N7WS
>> 
>>> On 1/17/2021 2:07 PM, Wayne Burdick wrote:
>>> The FCC just posted this:
>>> 
>>> 
>>> https://www.fcc.gov/document/amateur-personal-radio-users-reminded-not
>>> -use-radios-crimes
>>> 
>>> I guess this isn't surprising, considering current events. But in case
>> their motivation wasn't clear, see this interpretation:
>>> 
>>> 
>>> https://www.cnn.com/2021/01/17/tech/fcc-radio-extremist-social-media-a
>>> ttack/index.html
>>> 
>>> Chances are VHF+ bands are the more likely vehicle for this form of
>> self-expression. It might get lost in the already "interesting" QRM on 75
>> meters.
>>> 
>>> 73,
>>> Wayne
>>> N6KR
>>> 
>> 
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Re: [Elecraft] K2 purchase considered

[Vic Rosenthal]

Strange. I have K2 #725, which received various mods over the years, but I 
never noticed anything like a loud pop, nor do I recall a mod for it.

Victor 4X6GP 

> On 21 Nov 2020, at 4:41, barry halterman  wrote:
> 
> I will throw my two cents in on this. Quite frankly, I do not see how a K2
> got the reviews it did over the years. I put one together in July to do
> something during lock down. After assembly, which was really a pleasure,
> and in two or three weeks after, I noticed a disturbing pop when tuning
> around strong cw stations. The s meter would jump to maximum signal
> strength and my ears took a beating with the loud pop!
> The rig went back to Elecraft for evaluation and I was told with this type
> of PLL circuit design, this is the nature of the beast. Having known this
> irritating pop is nature of the beast, I would have saved my money!!
> I want to say that Elecraft made a modification to help with the strong
> pops and I am very thankful for that and the the terrific service, but the
> pops are a big annoyance to me even with the suppressor.
> I still am evaluating if I want to keep this thing or put it up for sale.
> K3bo
> 
>> On Fri, Nov 20, 2020, 9:11 PM Macy monkeys  wrote:
>> 
>> Agree. I have had a parade of 'better' rigs come and go through the
>> shack...but my K2 built over 20 years ago is still here.
>> 
>> John K7FD
>> 
>>> On Nov 20, 2020, at 5:41 PM, Robert G Strickland via Elecraft <
>> elecraft@mailman.qth.net> wrote:
>>> 
>>> John...
>>> 
>>> Jim has the resume to back up his opinion(s) which I do not have. His
>> view point always merits serious consideration. For myself, building the K2
>> was/is one of the "peak experiences" I have enjoyed as an amateur radio
>> operator. While I now use a K3s - and it is a "better" radio - I have
>> continued to use the K2 regularly over the years. I never fail to smile
>> when it powers up, and the two of us go on the radio journey of the moment.
>> It is my go-to radio for field day. When I bought it there were no other
>> options, while today, the KX2/3, K3/s, K4 are all excellent radios that
>> should be considered; you can't go wrong with any of them. That said and
>> speaking for myself, I would sell any of the "better" radios in my
>> possession before parting with my K2. When you go on to better and better
>> rigs, you'll never regret the time spent with the K2. This reads like a
>> "testimonial," and I suppose that it is. No offense to anyone meant. Just
>> one ham's opinion.
>>> 
>>> ...robert
>>> 
>>> 
>>> 11/20/2020 06:54 PM, Jim Brown wrote:
> On 11/20/2020 10:07 AM, John Daws wrote:
> Am really tempted to get a K2 to use alongside the above- I have an
> experienced builder here in the UK.
> 
> 
> Everything I have read about the K2 excites me!!
 
 Most of the fun of the K2 is in the building. The newer rigs (K3, K3S,
 KX3, K4) are better radios.
 
 73, Jim K9YC
 
 
 
 
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>>> 
>>> --
>>> Robert G Strickland, PhD ABPH - KE2WY
>>> rc...@verizon.net.usa
>>> Syracuse, New York, USA
>>> 
>>> 
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Re: [Elecraft] K3 RX dead 80/20 meters

[Vic Rosenthal]

RX ANT not activated on 80 and 20?

Victor 4X6GP 

> On 1 Oct 2020, at 6:58, Jim Kennedy  wrote:
> 
> Hello all, I need some help ! My K3 s/n 3378 has gone deaf on 80 and 20 
> meters, all other bands are good. It does not have a second receiver 
> installed. I have confirmed the receive signal on the other bands is good 
> with my HP 8640B signal generator. I can get a signal thru it on 80/20 meters 
> but it takes a ton of RF from the signal generator. The attenuator is not on 
> nor the preamp. The internal antenna tuner works as expected. I have normal 
> power out on all bands including 80/20 meters measured with a Bird 43 and 
> Bird dummy load. Any help would be much appreciated. 
> 
> Jim 
> W7OUU 
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Re: [Elecraft] SVGA Screen save to memory stick

[Vic Rosenthal]

I’d like to know too. I’ve never been able to get it to work. Sometimes it 
starts saving snd hangs up; sometimes it doesn’t start.

Victor 4X6GP 

> On 26 Sep 2020, at 3:42, w4sc  wrote:
> 
> I’ve read the manual, tried at least 10 memory sticks (a very BAD location 
> for the USB, some don’t fit because of VGA cable.
> 
> What is the secret?
> 
> Ben W4SC
> 
> Sent from Mail for Windows 10
> 
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Re: [Elecraft] my KPA1500 and 160M

[Vic Rosenthal]

Ferrite is a bunch of tiny ferrous particles glued together by a nonconducting 
substance. It has magnetic properties but currents can’t flow in it (at least 
not very far). I haven’t tried, but I bet an ohmmeter would say it’s an 
insulator.

Victor 4X6GP 

> On 3 Sep 2020, at 7:48, Adrian  wrote:
> 
> Please quote your online reference please regarding ferrite cores being a 
> dielectric
> 
> If so then my not just use un-enammeled wire on a course wound core ? A 
> dielectric is an insulator ;
> 
> 
> Dielectric
> 
> From Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia
> Jump to navigation Jump to 
> search 
> Not to be confused withDielectric constant 
> orDialectic 
> .
> 
> 
> A*dielectric*(or*dielectric material*) is anelectrical insulator 
> 
> 
> I don't see any reference to ferrite cores being a dielectric online.
> 
> The molecular alignment heating method regarding dielectric loss, is not 
> mentioned on any ferrite core RF heating science, that I can find.
> 
> Please read ;
> 
> Predicting Temperature Rise of Ferrite Cored Transformers George Orenchak TSC 
> Ferrite International 39105 North Magnetics Boulevard Wadsworth, IL 60083
> 
> 
> "Core Losses Core losses are a significant contributor to the temperature 
> rise of a transformer. Hysteresis loss, eddy *current* loss and residual loss 
> all contribute to the total core loss. At high flux densities and relatively 
> low frequencies, hysteresis losses are usually dominant. Hysteresis loss is 
> the amount the magnetization of the ferrite material lags the magnetizing 
> force because of molecular friction. The loss of energy due to hysteresis 
> loss is proportional to the area of the static or low frequency B-H loop. At 
> high frequencies, eddy current losses usually dominate. Eddy *current* loss 
> is from a varying induction that produces electromotive forces, which cause a 
> current to circulate within a magnetic material. These eddy *currents* result 
> in energy loss. Understanding the behaviour of the combined total core loss 
> as functions of flux density and of frequency is most important. "
> 
> 
> Dielectric is not mentioned.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
>> On 3/9/20 2:15 pm, David Gilbert wrote:
>> 
>> If you weren't too stubborn you could find many, many online references to 
>> the dielectric characteristics of ferrites.  A ferite core absolutely IS a 
>> dielectric.  There is nothing false about what I've been telling you.
>> 
>> Dave  AB7E
>> 
>> 
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Re: [Elecraft] Waterproof SO-239 covers

[Vic Rosenthal]

This is frustrating for those of us who don’t live in the US or Europe. Even 
before Corona I tried to order some hardware from McMaster-Carr in the US, only 
to be (somewhat unpleasantly) turned down. The same from other suppliers.
I don’t know what’s the big deal when we pay the postage. I used to send 
packages around the world when I was in the US, and there was only one simple 
customs form to fill out.

Victor 4X6GP 

> On 16 Jul 2020, at 15:35, Mike Harris via Elecraft  
> wrote:
> 
> A great selection of bits. Unfortunately when I tried to order a couple of 
> microphone connector dust caps for my K2 and K3. The system took the order 
> but they refused to post them.
> 
> Regards,
> 
> Mike VP8NO
> 
>> On 15/07/2020 23:57, Dave Cole wrote:
>> American Radio Supply sells metal covers that thread onto SO-239, and have a 
>> soft rubber insert.  I have been using them on outdoor connectors for years 
>> now, and they work well...
>> 73, and thanks,
>> Dave (NK7Z)
>> https://www.nk7z.net
>> ARRL Volunteer Examiner
>> ARRL Technical Specialist
>> ARRL Asst. Director, NW Division, Technical Resources
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Re: [Elecraft] K1 D1 LED issue

[Vic Rosenthal]

Measure the voltage across the LED when it’s supposed to be on and off. That 
will tell you whether the LED or something else is at fault.

Victor 4X6GP 

> On 10 Jul 2020, at 7:25, W4RAM  wrote:
> 
> Good morning,
> I am looking for your advice with the follow issue:
> 
> D1 LED in my K1 does not work. LED does not light when I activate the RIT
> function. I can see in the screen when RIT is activated (ON/OFF).
> I already checked the D1 position, also solder, they look correct.
> This problem may seem simple to fix, however, and I'm not sure if the
> solution is just change the led.
> 
> Thank you for your advice and assistance.
> 
> Al
> W4RAM
> 
> 
> 
> 
> --
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Re: [Elecraft] N6TV recording K4 K3

[Vic Rosenthal]

I should have said “all of them are both dedicated and lucky.”

Victor 4X6GP 

> On 26 Jun 2020, at 8:44, Wayne Burdick  wrote:
> 
> 
> There's a lot more than two :)
> 
> 73,
> Wayne
> N6KR
> 
>> On Thu, Jun 25, 2020 at 10:28 PM Vic Rosenthal  wrote:
>> One of the most exciting experiences in my life as a ham was participating 
>> in the field test of the K3. I once sat in front of it and turned it on and 
>> off more than a hundred times in a row to verify that a firmware fix was 
>> successful.
>> 
>> The K4 testers are both dedicated volunteers — and lucky guys.
>> 
>> Victor 4X6GP 
>> 
>> > On 26 Jun 2020, at 1:53, Bob Wilson, N6TV  wrote:
>> > 
>> > Fun stuff (and more work than you might think).
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Re: [Elecraft] N6TV recording K4 K3

[Vic Rosenthal]

One of the most exciting experiences in my life as a ham was participating in 
the field test of the K3. I once sat in front of it and turned it on and off 
more than a hundred times in a row to verify that a firmware fix was successful.

The K4 testers are both dedicated volunteers — and lucky guys.

Victor 4X6GP 

> On 26 Jun 2020, at 1:53, Bob Wilson, N6TV  wrote:
> 
> Fun stuff (and more work than you might think).
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Re: [Elecraft] K3 - No RF output

[Vic Rosenthal]

Check that TX INHIBIT is off in the menu.

Victor 4X6GP 

> On 16 Jun 2020, at 0:35, G4BVH  wrote:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
>Hi Bill,The rig doesnot produce any RF out in any mode. Everything 
> looks normal on the display, LEDs etc, the rig keys via mic or paddle but 
> just no RF.Some have suggested a bad internal cable connection or bad board 
> edge connector. I am working my way through those. 73, Peter G4BVH
>
>
> 
>Get Outlook for iOS
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> On Mon, Jun 15, 2020 at 2:45 PM +0100, "Bill Steffey NY9H"  
> wrote:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> DOES k3 xmit ssb with a mic in usb ?
> 
> what mode ( TXDATA) are you using ...
> 
> usually when I have that symptom, turns out that computer sound card is 
> NOT putting out TX audio to rig.
> 
> 
>> On 6/15/2020 4:04 AM, G4BVH wrote:
>> Hi,
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> I have had a fault develop on my K3 whereby there is no RF being produced. I
>> have emailed the details to Elecraft support and am hoping to receive a
>> reply with suggestions. However, I thought I would also send the details
>> here in case anyone can suggest something to try or investigate further.
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> I have a K3, serial number 6482 which I built from a kit. It has worked
>> flawlessly since I built it. I have the 400Hz and 2.7kHz (2.8kHz?) filters
>> fitted and the 100W module but no other additions.
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> A few days ago, it was running 20W of FT8 and I suddenly discovered that it
>> hadn't been transmitting. Everything appeared that it should be
>> transmitting: the red TX LED was lit, it was not in TEST mode (TX not
>> flashing) but there was no RF output displayed on the bar graph and
>> definitely nothing coming out on any mode. There is no RF if I wind down the
>> power below the 10W level, there is the usual relay click going through 12W
>> - 13W and still no RF above this level, ie on towards 100W.
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> The K3 metering shows 13.5V and 0.84 on receive, 0.97A on the lower power
>> level setting and 1.18A on the higher power setting on transmit. The RF
>> output bar graph always displays 1 bar on transmit no matter what the power
>> level  is set but there is no RF coming out.
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> I tried the TX calibration but it fails saying the power level didn't reach
>> that required.
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> The receiver works fine and I can hear the CW side tone and SSB, AM and FM
>> audio monitoring as normal.
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> I have removed and reseated the front panel and also the 3 coax patch leads
>> behind the front panel but this made no difference. There is a yellow LED,
>> D33, on the main board which is lit on receive and goes out on transmit.
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> The latest firmware is installed - I updated this a month or so ago.
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> TX inhibit is OFF and the 20A breaker has not tripped.
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> Any thoughts or suggestions gratefully received.
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> Very many thanks and 73,
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> Peter, G4BVH
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> 
> 
> -- 
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Re: [Elecraft] NOT the feedline

[Vic Rosenthal]

Pardon me if this has already been covered, but do you have the same problem if 
you connect the antenna to ANT-2 on the KPA? I know you don’t want to do this 
permanently, but just as a test.

Victor 4X6GP 

> On 2 Jun 2020, at 3:47, Peter Dougherty  wrote:
> 
> Thanks for the reply, Jack. 
> 
> Here's a FULL summary of what is in the line at this moment from the jack on 
> up.
> 
> PL-259 (soldered, Amphenol 83-1SP as all are) to about 2 feet of RG-213 
> feeding into a Ten-Tec Tuner, which is being used only as an antenna switch 
> and is in bypass. This is needed because the power supply fan noise on the 
> KPA-1500 is just so overwhelming that I can only power it on when needed. I 
> am primarily an HF operator, so ANT-1 is reserved for my HF stack. If I put 
> the 6m antenna on ANT-2, I would need to keep the amp running. So everything 
> goes out on ANT-1, through the TT-238. From there, one feedline goes to the 
> HF stack and the other to the 6m output. It gets SLIGHTLY better if I go 
> directly from the KPA-1500 to the input box, as follows but I still 
> experience faults.
> 
> From there, a PL-259, and 7 or 8 feet of RG-213. Another PL-259, an Amphenol 
> barrel connector in the input box, PL259, then approximately 65 or 70 feet of 
> Commscope-branded LMR-400. PL-259 from that is connected to an Amphenol 
> SO-239 female-to-N-Male, the choke balun, then the driven loop element to the 
> antenna.
> 
> As of Tuesday morning this will change as follows. KPA-1500 ANT-1 out, PL-259 
> and about 40' of Davis BuryFlex out to the remote antenna switch at the base 
> of the HF stack. From there, about 25 more feet of BuryFlex, a barrel 
> connector then the LMR-400 up to the 6m antenna. This will basically just be 
> an experiment to see if there's any improvement; I'll be bypassing both the 
> old Ten-Tec tuner/switch and the inlet box, and routing via the HF signal 
> path and automatic antenna switch. Adding 65' of BuryFlex to the path strikes 
> me as adding measurable and fairly significant loss to an otherwise really 
> good, quiet antenna system, but if it lets me operate without having to worry 
> about hard faults all the time then I'll take that as a tradeoff.
> 
> - pjd
> 
> -Original Message-
> From: Jack Brindle  
> Sent: Monday, June 1, 2020 6:09 PM
> To: Peter Dougherty 
> Cc: Bob McGraw K4TAX ; elecraft@mailman.qth.net
> Subject: Re: [Elecraft] NOT the feedline
> 
> Lets take another try at this. There still isn’t enough information in your 
> emails to really determine what might be going on. From the amplifier’s 
> viewpoint, *everything* from the antenna jack on the back of the amplifier is 
> part of the antenna system. So far we know it consists of some section of 
> RG213, another of LM400, a balun of some sort, and an antenna. There are 
> undoubtedly some adapters and couplers in between, and perhaps a few other 
> things. Knowing exactly what these are is critical in making any suggestions.
> 
> Every few months since we released the KPA500 we have seen emails from folks 
> who are certain that the amplifier is causing a problem. We all build our 
> stations for low power, then decide that adding an amplifier is needed, so we 
> buy one. We then are faced with issues driving a lot more power into the 
> antenna system. These are caused by deficiencies in that system, which was 
> sized for much lower power, and almost always will contain at least one 
> component that cannot handle the power. The last part of the KPA500 before 
> power goes out is the directional coupler (note: it is after the low pass 
> filters), the KPA1500 has its ATU after those components. With the KPA1500 
> ATU in bypass, the directional coupler becomes the last component. This is 
> important because the directional coupler will see any problem in the antenna 
> system, and report it. No amplifier component is in the way to modify things, 
> we get a true picture of what follows the amplifier. So, when something 
> glitches in the antenna system (usually an arc in a coupler, or an overheated 
> toroid in a balun or matching unit), the directional coupler picks it up and 
> moves to protect the amplifier.
> 
> With this in mind, place the KPA1500 ATU into bypass and perform the test. 
> When you see the fault occur, you then need to look at the entire antenna 
> system, starting at the antenna jack on the back of the KPA1500. All of the 
> components are suspect, even a new part (balun, antenna, etc), which may have 
> been affected by high power right after installation. Be sure to looks at the 
> RG213, and at the coupler to the LM400. You have made reference to shack 
> feed-through, what is that, and does it use components that might have issues?
> 
> As in past cases, find the problem in the overall antenna system, and the 
> KPA1500 will be much happier, as will you.
> 
> So, before we can help you, we need to know the details of the system.
> 
> 73!
> Jack, W6FB
> Elecraft Engineering

Re: [Elecraft] NOT the feedline (was KPA-1500 faulting on 6m; SWR issues)

[Vic Rosenthal]

Are you using the same output connector on the KPA1500 for the dummy load and 
the antenna? 
Perhaps the problem is in one of the SO239s or in the KPA’s switching circuit?

Victor 4X6GP 

> On 1 Jun 2020, at 4:30, Peter Dougherty  wrote:
> 
> Many here suggested that it was most likely a feedline issue, and I figured
> this was indeed a distinct possibility. 
> 
> So this afternoon I replaced the feedline. I now have about 80 feet of brand
> new LMR-400, new 83-SP1 connectors (and an Amphenol adaptor at the balun
> since I don't have any type-N connectors here). The AA-230 ZOOM analyzer
> shows about 1.2:1 at 50.313, with resonance just below the band. I'll fix
> that tomorrow, but 1.2 or 1.3:1 should be nothing to the KPA. 
> 
> The TDR screen looks very clean, just a tiny bump where the feedline goes
> through the (new) bulkhead connector to get into the house. See:
> https://www.dropbox.com/s/izcwvece7nt5f42/2020-05-31%2019.32.44.jpg?dl=0
> 
> The SWR chart between 50.000 and 50.500:
> https://www.dropbox.com/s/y2xh4l1lihy2ujr/2020-05-31%2021.23.29.jpg?dl=0
> 
> Again, I know the antenna is resonant a bit low, but this should NOT be a
> factor. So here's what's now going on.
> 
> 1) Into a Cantenna dummy load, with 25W of drive from the M3s, the KPA-1500
> is delivering 1075W and showing 1.4:1. No problem delivering power and no
> faults.
> 
> 2) With input power increased, 35W of K3s drive gives 1375W at 1.5 into the
> Cantenna. Again, no problem delivering power to the purely resistive load.
> Why a 1.5:1, I don't know, but fine, whatever. I can TX for 15-20 second
> periods without issue.
> 
> 3) When I switch over to the live antenna, with25 Watts of drive from the
> K3s into the actual antenna and the amp faults out instantly in bypass. When
> the amplifier is in bypass and the tuner is in bypass, and when the K3s is
> delivering about 90W in FT8 mode, the front panel on the KPA-1500 says the
> SWR is 1.9:1. When I press the TUNE button on the radio, it's showing an SWR
> of 1.4:1. 
> 
> 4) Amp in bypass, tuner inline, press TUNE button on the K3s and the front
> panel of the KPA-1500 is showing a perfect 1.0:1 match. It SHOULD work fine
> like this, right?
> 
> 5) Pressing ONLY the OPER/STBY button to put the amp in operate (KPA tuner
> in and untouched since step 4), the amp SOMETIMES delivers power, sometimes
> faults out, shows an SWR of 1.7:1. Pressing the OPER/STBY button again to
> use only exciter power, and touching NOTHING ELSE, it's back to 1.1:1 with
> 90W of K3s drive.
> 
> 6) There is basically no rhyme or reason why this is happening and it's
> *somewhat* repeatable. The incredibly frustrating part is if I see a needed
> station come up, I'll flick the amp's tuner in line and it says it's tuned.
> Once WSJT-X keys the radio, 90 out of 100 times the amp will hard-fault. If
> it doesn't fault on the first transmission, it absolutely WILL on the second
> transmission. 
> 
> So I'm now at a complete loss to understand what's going on here. Amp is
> fine into a resistive load. Brand-new antenna, brand new LMR-400 feedline,
> brand new connectors, the KPA-1500 is faulting out the same as it did on the
> 10+ year old 6M5 with a patchwork of feedlines. I can't see how this is
> anything but a problem in the KPA-1500 (S/N 0398).
> 
> - pjd
> 
> -Original Message-
> From: elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net  On
> Behalf Of Jim Brown
> Sent: Sunday, May 31, 2020 8:22 PM
> To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
> Subject: Re: [Elecraft] KPA-1500 faulting on 6m; SWR issues
> 
>> On 5/31/2020 9:54 AM, Jim Miller wrote:
>> Have you vetted your feedline at 1500w? Many times something might be 
>> good at low power and fail at 1500.
> 
> This is good advice. Guys who do lots of portable setup say to always check
> the coax first, which mostly means check for a connector that's bad or badly
> installed.
> 
> In general, if it doesn't say Amphenol or isn't stamped with a MIL spec
> number, it's very likely to be poor quality. This includes barrels,
> adapters, etc.  Also make sure that every connector is" wrench tight."
> 
> The advice to run it straight to a dummy load is right on -- if you have one
> big enough. :)
> 
> 73, Jim K9YC
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Re: [Elecraft] K1 build question: T1, turn count method.

[Vic Rosenthal]

Measuring the inductance is not a good approach unless you have a way of 
measuring it at a specific frequency. The toroid material’s effect on the 
inductance of the finished coil varies with frequency, and most LC meters use a 
frequency below the HF range. 

Victor 4X6GP 

> On 30 May 2020, at 0:16, Paul Gacek via Elecraft  
> wrote:
> 
> John
> 
> Fair question as to why not.
> 
> I guess it boils down to tolerance in the design. As T1 and T2 are impedance 
> matches maybe my error isn’t going to push things out of tolerance. 
> 
> That written, the consensus feed back is I have counted the turns wrong on T1 
> and it’s easy enough to reduce a turn (versus adding one!).
> 
> I just completed the front panel tests and so before heading into the VFO 
> alignment, I’ll make the correction.
> 
> For all the inductors (such as L9,L10 etc) I measure the inductance before 
> installing them.
> 
> Paul
> 
>> On May 29, 2020, at 1:31 PM, John Harper  wrote:
>> 
>> Why would you choose not correct a known error?
>> 
>> Correct it and rule it out as a possible culprit in the event you have a
>> problem with the radio. If you don't correct it, and end up having a
>> problem, you'll wonder
>> 
>> John AE5X
>> https://ae5x.blogspot.com
>> 
>>> Any guidance on whether I should correct this is welcome.
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Re: [Elecraft] Elecraft K3s, etc. bonding

[Vic Rosenthal]

The problems of hum and RF pickup are reduced by simply connecting all the 
equipment chassis together with low inductance conductors. It’s a safety 
feature as well, providing a backup to the power cables’ ground conductor, and 
ensuring that disconnecting a coax jumper won’t suddenly put you in the path of 
an unexpected current. That doesn’t cost thousands and is at most a few hours 
of work.

Serious lightning protection is something else, and can be very expensive. But 
although bonding the equipment won’t protect you against direct lightning 
strikes, it does help to keep everything at the same potential and reduce the 
possibility of damage from less violent static discharges.

Victor 4X6GP 

> On 24 Apr 2020, at 3:19, Randy Lake  wrote:
> 
> Ok. I am sure I will get the wrath of God for going in this direction but
> here we go. I was licensed in 91 and have put together 2 average so contest
> stations with no grounds. None what so ever except power grounds. I have a
> bunch of equipment, not intentionally interconnected, that has had no issue
> in all that time. If I had seen something that led me to fix an issue I
> certainly would have. Safety ? Maybe. I am just not sure that the thousands
> of dollars that could be put into this type of grounding is necessary, in
> my part of the world.
> So, no grounds on lugs of any equipment, no grounds on tower (100') no
> grounding of coax. Aside lightning strikes, which I have had and not issue,
> what can I gain from spending the $$$ ?
> If someone can convince me I will consider.
> 
> Randy N1KWF
> 
>> On Thu, Apr 23, 2020 at 8:38 AM Randy Farmer  wrote:
>> 
>> I'm currently in the process of wiring up my new station and I happen to
>> be working on the equipment bonding phase for my pair of K3s SO2R
>> station. I'm doing my best to get decent connectivity between the
>> station components, but can't really figure out how to terminate large
>> (AWG 10) wire to the teeny 6-32 ground screws on the back of the K3,
>> especially since something like six bond wires need to be attached to
>> the transceivers. There appear to be no available ring terminals that
>> will fit these small screws; the smallest I can find are for #10 studs.
>> Even by using a threaded standoff installed in the K3 ground nut and a
>> longer screw to stand the rings off, stacking a bunch of these huge
>> terminals is extremely difficult. Providing some means of reasonably
>> quick disconnect for servicing purposes is equally difficult. Exactly
>> how can I go about connecting big wires to little ground posts?
>> 
>> 73...
>> Randy, W8FN
>> 
>>> On 4/20/2020 10:22 PM, Jim Brown wrote:
>>> On 4/20/2020 6:08 PM, Tom Norris NB5Q wrote:
 I'm asking what method and
 attachment point, to each piece of equipment, you experienced K-Line
 owners
 use to bond the K3s, P3, SP3, etc. and then on to the station ground.
>>> 
>>> I use wires soldered to screw lugs, making sure that the attachment
>>> point is not insulated from the chassis by paint. Some of the
>>> equipment has a dedicated grounding screw. Shells of DB connectors
>>> SHOULD be bonded to the equipment chassis, but not always -- some mfrs
>>> screw up and fail to do that.
>>> 
>>> Some of my equipment goes out in the field from time to time, so I use
>>> single circuit Power Pole connectors to make that easy. I'll use 2-6"
>>> between the lug and the PowerPole, then make a loop soldered to a
>>> PowerPoles that connect to each piece of gear in the string (so each
>>> connector has two wires). There are lots of suitable variations on
>>> this, depending on how the shack is laid out.
>>> 
>>> These are the slides for my talks on station power, grounding, and
>>> bonding. http://k9yc.com/GroundingAndAudio.pdf
>>> 
>>> 73, Jim K9YC
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> 
> 
> -- 
> Randy Lake N1KWF
> 73 Gunn Rd.
> Keene,NH
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Re: [Elecraft] VF Varies With Frequency

[Vic Rosenthal]

I put a shorted 1/4 wave stub — about a foot long on 144 MHz — on the coax to 
my 2m beam. The beam is right under my HF antenna, and thanks to the stub I can 
run 1.3 kW on 40-10m with absolutely no interference to the 2m rig, and no 
effect on 2m SWR. Before I had the stub, hitting the key on the HF rig caused 
the 2m transceiver to reboot.

The stub is near the radio, although I don’t know if that matters. I just used 
the published VF for the coax to figure the length.

To be fair, I should mention that the 2m beam is vertically polarized and the 
HF antenna is horizontal. But they are just a few feet apart.

Victor 4X6GP 

> On 1 Apr 2020, at 20:38, Jim Brown  wrote:
> 
> On 4/1/2020 7:58 AM, Don Wilhelm wrote:
>> When dealing with a length of transmission line, the use of the '468' factor 
>> should not be used - compute the actual wavelength and then apply the 
>> velocity factor.
> 
> There is yet another variable -- VF varies with frequency. At low 
> frequencies, it is lower (slower), increasing until it converges to the 
> published value at VHF. For this reason, matching sections and stubs must be 
> measured at or near the operating frequency with an analyzer or as a stub 
> placed in line with a generator and receiver. They should be cut long, then 
> trimmed so that the null in that generator/receiver circuit is heard, or the 
> analzyer reads a short or open.
> 
> How much is this variation? For typical transmission lines, it's on the order 
> of 1% from 80M, a bit more for 160M as compared to the published value. If 
> what you're building is a stub to kill harmonics, it's the difference between 
> the CW and phone bands on 80M.
> 
> 73, Jim K9YC
> 
> 
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Re: [Elecraft] Off-Topic: Your advice/suggestion about antenna

[Vic Rosenthal]

I wonder. Wouldn’t such noise be out of phase on the two halves of the flat top 
and hence be rejected?

Also, the nulls will be in the same directions (although the tightness of the 
pattern will vary) when the antenna is operated from half its design frequency 
to twice that (e.g., from 40 to 10 meters). 

...from someone who is using such a system with open wire feed and a Johnson 
Matchbox. 

Victor 4X6GP 

> On 18 Mar 2020, at 1:42, Jim Brown  wrote:
> 
> 4) A well-balanced transformer coupled tuner CAN present an open to the 
> common mode circuit, but the rest of the feedline is still part of the 
> antenna, so any common mode noise received on the feedline is coupled to the 
> antenna, and from there back down the feedline as a differential signal.
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[Elecraft] Penny wise, pound foolish

[Vic Rosenthal]

I recently ordered some Kester flux pens from a large Chinese company. They 
take a lng time, but shipping is free and prices are low.
But:
One of the pens had a date of January 2019, which means that half of its shelf 
life has expired.
The second one had a more recent date, but was leaking and encrusted with flux.
The third one had a recent date and was not leaking.
I decided that I had hit one out of three, until I looked closely at the label. 
The misspellings made it obvious that they were all FAKE. Instead of Kester 
flux, they could contain panther piss for all I know.
Don’t be dumb like me.

Victor 4X6GP 
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[Elecraft] NR

[Vic Rosenthal]

I’ve never found the K3 NR very useful. But this morning, I was trying to hear 
VP8PJ on CW through a humongous wideband radar (or something) signal that was 
running over S9. The IF NB didn’t do anything against it, and the DSP NB just 
helped a little. I found that opening up the bandwidth to about 2.2 kHz and 
setting the NR to F1-3 knocked the radar down enough that I could copy him!
Unfortunately, it didn’t make him able to hear me over the loud US pileup, but 
I was surprised that the NR was so effective in this situation.

Victor 4X6GP 
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Re: [Elecraft] Dual Receivers 2 different antennas Diversity receive

[Vic Rosenthal]

I notice a big increase in intelligibility of cw signals in conditions of QSB 
and even QRN with diversity on 40 through 10 meters (well, at least I have dim 
memories of 15/12/10 m). 
My antennas are only about 10m apart, but one is a horizontal dipole and the 
other is a vertically polarized small loop (a “pixel loop”, now made by DX 
Engineering). The dipole is also about 5m higher than the loop.

Victor 4X6GP 

> On 29 Jan 2020, at 2:09, Barry  wrote:
> 
> Frank,
>Not all of us have your backyard, like me. Using two different 
> polarization will get you there also, And, cross polarization will enhance 
> decoupling between the antennas.
> 
> 73,
> Barry
> K3NDM
> 
> -- Original Message --
> From: donov...@starpower.net
> To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
> Sent: 1/28/2020 2:41:40 PM
> Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Dual Receivers 2 different antennas Diversity receive
> 
>> I should have clarified 540 feet of separation on 160 meters,
>> much less on higher bands (e.g. 280 feet on 80, 140 feet on 40)
>> 
>> 
>> 73
>> Frank
>> W3LPL
>> 
>> - Original Message -
>> 
>> From: donov...@starpower.net
>> To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
>> Sent: Tuesday, January 28, 2020 7:38:07 PM
>> Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Dual Receivers 2 different antennas Diversity receive
>> 
>> 60 feet of antenna separation does not provide diversity capability.
>> Diversity depends on independent fading of received signals,
>> accomplished by at least one wavelength of spacing between two
>> identically polarized antennas or by two antennas with opposite
>> polarization. More than one wavelength of spacing will provide
>> even better diversity performance.
>> 
>> 
>> One wavelength of spacing requires 540 feet of spacing,
>> almost ten times more what you're proposing to use.
>> 
>> 
>> 73
>> Frank
>> W3LPL
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> - Original Message -
>> 
>> From: "VernonJ" 
>> To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
>> Sent: Tuesday, January 28, 2020 7:27:31 PM
>> Subject: [Elecraft] Dual Receivers 2 different antennas Diversity receive
>> 
>> My K3S has Main and Sub receivers. I would like to use Diversity receive with
>> the Main using the transmit antenna, and my Sub using a small receive loop.
>> Is there sufficient isolation on the Receive Only antenna connection to
>> protect the Sub? Antennas are 60 feet apart, and I intend to run 500 watts
>> at some point. If I need additional isolation and protection, how would I do
>> this? Thanks.
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> --
>> Sent from: http://elecraft.365791.n2.nabble.com/
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Re: [Elecraft] Ameritron 240V inrush limiter: any benefit on a KPA500?

[Vic Rosenthal]

Just like the 1930s vintage Western Electric at WKOP when I worked there in the 
early 60s. When you turned it on, it went click-click-click-click BLANG.
Two tubes, 12 kV on the plates, about 1 amp plate current for 5 kW output.

Victor 4X6GP 

> On 19 Jan 2020, at 1:45, Fred Jensen  wrote:
> 
> 10 KW homebrew FM broadcast TX [not kidding -- KPFK 90.7 Los Angeles in the 
> late 50's, 4 4-1000A's* in parallel driven by a 1 KW stage] had a step-start 
> using mechanical time-delay relays.**  It limited the inrush current to the 
> filter capacitors of the 5.5 KV plate power supply.  It was part of the power 
> supply in the back room, not the PA.
> 
> 73,
> Fred ["Skip"] K6DGW
> Sparks NV DM09dn
> Washoe County
> 
> * I do *not* recommend 4 ea 4-1000A's in parallel at 90.7 MHz. Things got 
> very hot.
> 
> ** Integrated circuits and microprocessors has not been invented then.  
> Actually, the transistor barely had been.
> 
>> On 1/18/2020 10:55 AM, Roger wrote:
>> NO amplifier needs inrush protection - it is the POWERSUPPLY that needs it
>> no matter how it is implemented.
>> So the answer is not an easy "NO" or "YES" but a definite "it depends"!
>> 
>> Roger, DL5RBW
>> 
>> 
> 
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Re: [Elecraft] K3 - Power cable voltage drop

[Vic Rosenthal]

I have a Fluke DVM also. I gulped when I bought it some 30+ years ago, but it 
was a good decision. It’s like a Snap-On wrench. It just feels right and never 
let me down.

Victor 4X6GP 

> On 25 Dec 2019, at 4:29, hawley, charles j jr  wrote:
> 
> I have a Fluke 87...for a couple of decades now. It does it all well.
> 
> Chuck Jack Hawley 
> KE9UW
> 
> Sent from my iPhone, cjack 
> 
>> On Dec 23, 2019, at 10:31 PM, Bob McGraw K4TAX  wrote:
>> 
>> A good, known accurate DVM is an asset to any station.  Use it to determine 
>> if the others are accurate.  There are several good brands available.   A 
>> DVM that is not accurate is worse than no DVM at all.   
>> 
>> My choice of many years ago is my Fluke 77.   After I tapped it with too 
>> much voltage, I sent it to Fluke for repair and calibration.  I am confident 
>> when I make a measurement it is accurate without question. 
>> 
>> Bob, K4TAX
>> 
>> 
>> Sent from my iPhone
>> 
 On Dec 23, 2019, at 2:12 PM, Buck  wrote:
>>> 
>>> The reliable place to measure the voltage at the K3x is using the supply 
>>> voltage display meter in the radio.  I was surprised to find mine was 
>>> significantly low.  I thought it was voltage drop but changing the supply 
>>> cable didn't make much difference.
>>> 
>>> Turns out the Astron power supply was more than a volt low and the meter on 
>>> the supply had been cranked up to make it appear to be correct.  I used two 
>>> separate VOMs to set the power supply and then adjusted the meter to make 
>>> it agree.
>>> 
>>> Moral of the story: don't rely on the meter on the power supply and assume 
>>> a low reading at the radio is due solely to voltage drop.
>>> 
>>> 
>>> 
>>> Buck, k4ia
>>> Honor Roll
>>> 8BDXCC
>>> EasyWayHamBooks.com
>>> 
> On 12/23/2019 2:26 PM, Phil Kane wrote:
> On 12/22/2019 9:44 AM, Bob McGraw wrote:
> I also added a dedicated ground between the ground screw on the back of
> the radio to the ground screw on the power supply.
 That's for "bonding".  Where do you pick up "ground" - at the radio, at
 the PS, or at some other point?
 73 de K2ASP - Phil Kane
 Elecraft K2/100   s/n 5402
 From a Clearing in the Silicon Forest
 Beaverton (Washington County) Oregon
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>> 
>> 
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Re: [Elecraft] Analysis of a CW COMMUNICATION

[Vic Rosenthal]

I participate in in the weekly mini-contests sponsored by CWOps, called CWTs. I 
generally operate in the 1 hour session at 0300 UTC. At that time, most of my 
contacts will be in North America. Naturally my signal will be weaker there 
than most of the competition, so I mostly search and pounce. I have found that 
requests for repeats or miscopies of my call (which is different from what most 
of the operators are primed to expect) increase rapidly when I call at more 
than about 27 wpm.
Just a data point.

Victor 4X6GP 

> On 3 Nov 2019, at 3:20, Tony Estep  wrote:
> 
> On Sat, Nov 2, 2019 at 6:44 PM EricJ  wrote:
> 
>> ...At 45 wpm, most ham ops need you to send your call three times or
>> more...
>> 
> ===
> Yeah, it's pretty obvious that sending a call faster and more times isn't
> an automatic way to improve end-to-end communication -- you could send it a
> lot of times at 100 wpm and work nobody. There's a tradeoff between the
> time it takes to send your call, and the probability that the other guy
> gets it correct. There's an optimal point on this curve.
> 
> Most of the players in DX pileups send at a speed under 30 wpm; the DX
> station tends to set the pace. After you participate in thousands of
> pileups you recognize that the consistently successful DXers have a lot of
> skillful strategies for getting their call through, and sending faster is
> not one of them. Neither is sending your call more than twice, max.
> 
> DXpeditioners who have been on the other end will attest that there's very
> little likelihood of a guy sending at 40 or above having his call copied
> among the screaming, howling pile.
> 
> Tony KT0NY
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Re: [Elecraft] Center-fed antennas

[Vic Rosenthal]

You bet. The Johnson Matchbox is as good as any expensive band pass filter.

Victor 4X6GP 

> On 11 Oct 2019, at 2:57, Joe Subich, W4TV  wrote:
> 
> 
> The one "multiband" antenna one can use in a multi-transmitter
> configuration is the flat-top with open wire feeders and a
> *Link coupled* tuner.  The link coupled tuner is a bandpass filter
> that significantly reduces harmonic/broadband noise just like the
> "Q" of a single band antenna.
> 
> 73,
> 
>   ... Joe, W4TV
> 
> 
>> On 2019-10-10 7:44 PM, Don Wilhelm wrote:
>> Bob,
>> Bandpass filters at each station will help a lot, but they do not have 
>> infinite out of band rejection.
>> There is still a huge benefit with single band antennas.  My club uses both.
>> Last Field Day (3F operation) one station got on the air with a multiband 
>> vertical, and all other operators jumped on that operator to shut him down 
>> quickly!  The multi-band antenna radiated harmonics of the radio.  Even 
>> though the transmitter met the -43 dB harmonic required by the FCC, the 
>> proximity of the multiband antenna to other antennas caused problems (that 
>> station was not using a bandpass filter).
>> So for Field Day multi-station operation, single band antennas, bandpass 
>> filters and transmitters with low phase noise are important.  We were not 
>> able to orient the antennas end to end due to space considerations at the 
>> EOC site, so we had to compromise on that, which makes the other factors 
>> very important.
>> I need to point out that as an experiment, a 2nd station used an antenna on 
>> 20 meters separated from the main 20 meters, and we were able to operate one 
>> on CW (K3) at the same time as the other station (Icom) used digital and SSB 
>> modes.  We had some mutual interference, but it was minimal.  The K3 did not 
>> interfere much with the Icom due to the K3's low phase noise, but the Icom 
>> did raise the background noise level on the K3.
>> 73,
>> Don W3FPR
> 
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Re: [Elecraft] Center-fed antennas

[Vic Rosenthal]

Things I’ve learned by experience:

In 63 years as a ham, I’ve had several :-) HF antennas. The ones that gave me 
the greatest overall satisfaction have been balanced, horizontal antennas. The 
worst have been verticals with inadequate radial systems or low random-length 
wires. Inverted Vs with angles less than 90 degrees between the wires are not 
much good, either.

There is no simpler way to make an efficient multiband antenna than to feed a 
dipole of at least 1/2 wavelength at the lowest frequency with open wire line. 
With some care in choosing the length of the line, a 1/4 wave dipole can work 
almost as well. I’ve worked over 300 countries on CW in the last 5 years on the 
bands from 40-10m with a 10m long rotary dipole, in an urban area (it is up 35m 
on a building and I run a kW, I admit). I regularly bust pileups on 40m with it.

1:1 baluns work to feed open wire lines, but can become inefficient in some 
circumstances and heat up. It’s possible to solve this by compensating for 
reactance with a pair of capacitors or inductors before the balun, but a better 
solution is a true balanced antenna tuner. 

“True Ladder Line” is a good product, but it’s easy to make your own, and you 
can use no. 12 (2 mm) wire for lower loss.

Sometimes a 4:1 balun may give a better match, but it will be less efficient 
(heat) and do a poorer job of keeping RF out of the shack.

Nothing has worked better for me at cleaning up RF in the shack than an old 
Johnson Matchbox, a true balanced tuner.

Victor 4X6GP 

> On 10 Oct 2019, at 23:56, Lyn Norstad  wrote:
> 
> I'm having great success with a horizontal center-fed "dipole" that has been 
> sized (360 feet long) to be an Extended Double Zepp (4.7 dbi gain) and cut 
> for the low end of 80 meters.  I feed it with 600 ohm "True" Ladder Line from 
> a Balun Designs Hybrid Balun (1:1 Current and 4:1 Voltage all in one case).  
> A short run of coax from the balun to my KAT500, and I am in business at any 
> frequency on 160 - 6 meters.
> 
> It's oriented to be an effective NVIS radiator in a N-S pattern on 80m, by 
> design, and to have major lobes on the other bands in other directions - also 
> by design.  For me, it's the most efficient and effective way to utilize our 
> lot space (400 feet clear) and still be "under the radar" in our HOA.
> 
> Birds seem to like it, and I find that it seems to be especially attractive 
> to Hummingbirds, my XYL's favorites.  A win-win, in my book.
> 
> 73
> Lyn, WØLEN
> 
> 
> -Original Message-
> From: elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net 
> [mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of Al Lorona
> Sent: Thursday, October 10, 2019 3:25 PM
> To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net; David Gilbert
> Subject: [Elecraft] Center-fed antennas
> 
> My experience with single vertical or sloping wires is exactly the same as 
> AB7E's. I have, over almost twice as many Field Days as Dave, come to a 
> similar conclusion, with the slight difference being my preference for an 
> "all-band dipole" fed with balanced line. This obviates the balun and reduces 
> feedline loss to negligible, so obviously I am maximizing efficiency at the 
> expense of any other possible advantage. (I can usually hear much better than 
> I can be heard... so thus far this has been a valid decision.)
> 
> To sum up what I and what I think Dave are saying, you can't beat a 
> horizontal, center-fed wire up as high as you can get it. Its simplicity, the 
> flexibility it gives you to QSY (with a good tuner), and its high efficiency 
> are almost unbeatable.
> 
> As a side note, the center-fed horizontal wire I have used here at home is 
> totally non-resonant. I don't even know how long it is. Once you give up the 
> obsession with resonant antenna length, you gain a huge freedom of choice.
> 
> In the bottom of the sunspot cycle, these advantages are somewhat reduced 
> because an op, especially on Field Day, might opt to forget about any band 
> higher than 20 meters -- and these days even 20 is questionable. This means 
> you can probably make do with coaxial cable and a balun for operation on 2 or 
> 3 bands but the general idea still holds.
> 
> Al  W6LX
> 
> 
>> Yes, a center fed normal dipole with the middle (high current portion) 
>> higher off the ground (say 50 feet for 40m) and a common mode choke at 
>> the feedpoint would almost assuredly perform better. 
>> 
>> 73,
>> Dave   AB7E
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Re: [Elecraft] San Francisco Chronicle: PG issues unprecedented power shut-off watch for much of Northern California

[Vic Rosenthal]

You can probably get her a deal on one of those “cute little radios,” Wayne! 
My wife refers to my K2 as my “little dorky radio”, but someday there will be 
an emergency and she’ll appreciate it.
Incidentally, a serious blackout is a good opportunity to use home station 
antennas with no manmade QRN. 

Victor 4X6GP 

> On 8 Oct 2019, at 5:11, Wayne Burdick  wrote:
> 
> I was visiting a sister last weekend who lives *really* deep in the woods, 50 
> miles from anywhere in northern California. She's completely off the grid, 
> thus unconcerned about PG's power lines. But she also has very spotty 
> cellphone reception.
> 
> During a moment when none of us had any bars, I pulled out the KX2 and the 
> AX1 whip (with the AXE1 40 meter extender). Sitting on her porch, running 10 
> watts SSB, I had no trouble checking into the Noontime Net on 40 meters. Now 
> she wants a ham license and "one of those cute little radios"  :)
> 
> We also heard an opening to Europe on 17 meters, but elected to play guitar, 
> drink wine, and enjoy the perfect weather instead.
> 
> 73,
> Wayne
> N6KR
> 
> 
>> On Oct 7, 2019, at 5:42 PM, Ken K6MR  wrote:
>> 
>> Yep, we’ve all received our text message, email, and phone call.  They are 
>> taking no chances.
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> My generator is fueled and ready  :^)
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> Ken K6MR
> 
> 
> 
> 
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Re: [Elecraft] RF chokes ...

[Vic Rosenthal]

This may or may not be a good idea. The impedance of RF chokes at multiple 
frequencies varies greatly, as anyone who has built a high power tube amplifier 
that covers 160-10 meters learns, sometimes the hard way. An open wire line 
used on several bands may present very high voltages at some points, which are 
different for different bands. So although Ken may have been lucky, your choke 
might go up in smoke, especially with high power.
I calculated that the voltage at the end of my open wire feedline when I 
transmit is as high as 7kV on 40 meters, and I’ve seen the arcs to prove it! 
The usual 2.5 mh choke would probably explode with the first dit. I am using a 
pair of 20 megohm 10kV resistors that I got from Mouser as static drains, 
across homemade adjustable spark gaps. 

Victor 4X6GP 

> On 27 Sep 2019, at 22:30, Ken G Kopp  wrote:
> 
> My 80M CF Zepp has a feedline with a 2.5 mH RF choke from each side to the
> station ground via a 2" wide flashing copper strap.
> 
> Never a problem with precipitation build up.
> 
> FWIW
> 
> 73
> 
> Ken Kopp - K0PP
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Re: [Elecraft] KPA-1500 failing on 160...AGAIN!

[Vic Rosenthal]

What happens with a dummy load? If it doesn’t fail, then the problem is in the 
antenna. The KPA may be more sensitive to a short period of high SWR than the 
K3.

Victor 4X6GP 

> On 27 Sep 2019, at 8:26, Peter Dougherty  wrote:
> 
> My KPA is once again repeatedly failing on 160m. I haven't used it on
> Topband since about the end of March, when it was fine. My antenna is
> checking out fine on my AA-230 ZOOM analyzer, and I can run 100W into the
> antenna from the K3s with no problem.
> 
> 
> I'm getting FAULT: PWR REFL on every keydown with drive power at any level,
> even just 5W in will cause it to fail.
> 
> I am running from the K3s directly into the KPA-1500, and from the KPA to an
> antenna switch out to the antennas. Everything was 100% last time I fired
> up, and the am IS working on 20 and 40 (the only other bands I've used since
> March). Any idea where to start looking here? I'm at a complete loss and
> have just missed two new DXCC entities on 160 as a result.
> 
> 
> -
> 73 and Good DX
> Peter, W2IRT
> 
> 
> 
> President, North Jersey DX Association
> 
> DXCC Card Checker
> Letter O Manager, ARRL Incoming 2nd District QSL bureau
> 
> 
> 
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Re: [Elecraft] Reflected power

[Vic Rosenthal]

He didn’t say common mode current WAS reflected power. He said that common mode 
current can cause incorrect SWR measurements, and that is true.

Victor 4X6GP 

> On 16 Sep 2019, at 7:37, Jim Brown  wrote:
> 
>> On 9/15/2019 6:05 PM, Michael Walker wrote:
>> Steve
>> 40 seems to be the killer band for weird things.  Dave's comments are the
>> first place to look.  Try also changing jumper cables.
>> What also could be happening is RF flowing back on feedline in a common
>> mode.  This RF gets measured as return energy and now, since the power is
>> higher, the return currents are higher and hence the high SWR reading.
> 
> False. Common mode current is NOT reflected power.
> 
> It is a fallacy that antennas like this do not need a serious common mode 
> choke, and it must be at the feedpoint (that is, up in the air). Indeed, 
> common mode current may be putting RF in the shack. Is everything in your 
> station properly bonded? Lots of things that work at low power break with 
> high power. See
> 
> http://k9yc.com/GroundingAndAudio.pdf
> 
> There are multiple versions of antennas using this name. Which one are you 
> using, Steve?
> 
> There are also fallacies about the performance of the double bazooka antenna. 
> Study this report by a very good engineer debunking them. 
> https://owenduffy.net/antenna/DoubleBazooka/index.htm
> 
>  You
>> won't see this with your RigExpert.
>> Does the same problem happen into a dummy load?  If Yes, it is an amp
>> issue.  If no, it is a antenna/feedline issue.
>> I would try some RF chokes (Mix 43) on both ends of the feedline (antenna
>> and amp end).  I chased strange RF issues for decades until I read this
>> document by the YCCC/W1HIS.
>> http://www.yccc.org/Articles/W1HIS/CommonModeChokesW1HIS2006Apr06.pdf.
>> After that I bought about 100 Mix 43 chokes and added them everywhere.
> 
> Mix 43 is a very poor material for HF chokes. The reason is complicated, but 
> it boils down to it's relatively high Q and wide production tolerances, which 
> make repeatable designs impossible.
> 
> Mix 31 is FAR better. W1HIS is right about the significance of chokes to kill 
> common mode current, but he didn't know about mix 31 when he wrote the 
> referenced document -- it was a pretty new material at the time. See the 
> latest version of my Choke Cookbook for detailed recommendations. 
> http://k9yc.com/2018Cookbook.pdf
> 
> 
>> Not only does it help with unique RFI TX issues, it also helps with the
>> ability to hear.  The quieter you are, the more you can copy.
> 
> Yes
> 
> 73, Jim K9YC
>> Let us know how you make out.
>> Mike va3mw
>>> On Sun, Sep 15, 2019 at 8:05 PM  wrote:
>>> Check your connections. Loose or poor PL-259s. Also check to see if the
>>> antenna is close to something causing it to arc over. I had one antenna
>>> that
>>> used ladder line with solid conductors. Due to it moving around in the wind
>>> one of the conductors developed a break which tested fine under low power
>>> or
>>> with an analyzer but would have problems at higher power. I've since moved
>>> to Davis RF copper clad stranded ladder line.
>>> 
>>> Dave wo2x
>>> 
>>> 
>>> 
>>> 
>>> -Original Message-
>>> From: elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net 
>>> On
>>> Behalf Of Stephen Rabinowitz
>>> Sent: Sunday, September 15, 2019 7:58 PM
>>> To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
>>> Subject: [Elecraft] Reflected power
>>> 
>>> My KPA-1500 switches from operate to standby due to reflected power more
>>> than 200w whenever drive power exceeds about 8 watts on 7 MHz. The forward
>>> power at that point is about 400w. The antenna is a double bazooka that
>>> shows an SWR of about 1.2 on a RigExpert AA-230Pro antenna analyzer. A
>>> Telepost LP-100A digital wattmeter shows SWR 1.3 with Z=52, R=49, Ph=17,
>>> and
>>> X=15. The KP1500 tunes to an SWR of what it labels 1.1 on that frequency.
>>> The latest firmware, version 2.27 is installed. This problem does not occur
>>> with double bazooka antennas on 80m or 30m, or with Yagis from 20m to 6m.
>>> It
>>> seems to me that there is a brief surge in reflected power at the very
>>> onset
>>> of the transmission that triggers the response, but that the reflected
>>> power
>>> quickly decreases to normal levels of just a few watts. Any ideas for
>>> dealing with this problem would be much appreciated.
>>> 73, Steve K2SN
>>> 
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>>> delivered to rocke...@gmail.com
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Re: [Elecraft] Rhombic antenna "gain"

[Vic Rosenthal]

Just a question of phasing it properly. Of course it would be hard to do for 
multiple bands!

Victor 4X6GP 

> On 14 Sep 2019, at 4:56, Fred Jensen  wrote:
> 
> Feed the termination power back into the antenna?  Conservation of energy? 
> [:-)
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Re: [Elecraft] Rhombic antenna "gain"

[Vic Rosenthal]

Just bring 600 ohm open line feedlines down from each end to a common point, 
where you have a relay or two to switch the feed and the terminating resistor. 
Then you can reverse it with a flip of the switch. Although transmit gain is 
the same as bidirectional, you can cut the noise by 3 dB.

Victor 4X6GP 

> On 14 Sep 2019, at 2:21, Fred Jensen  wrote:
> 
> Mike:  Rhombics can be operated either terminated or unterminated.  If 
> unterminated, they are bi-directional with half the power in each lobe.  If 
> terminated, the resistor absorbs half the power in the reverse lobe.  Either 
> way, half your power goes the "wrong" way, either behind your desired 
> direction or heats a big resistor.  They have a very low radiation angle and 
> a fairly narrow beamwidth which is why they're flame throwers and very common 
> in military and commercial stations, particularly in the days of 
> point-to-point radio circuits.  V-beams, sometimes called Half-Rhombics are 
> sort of likewise only broader azimuth patterns more suitable for maritime 
> ship-shore telegraphy circuits.  For ham applications, Google W6AM
> 
> 73,
> Fred ["Skip"] K6DGW
> Sparks NV DM09dn
> Washoe County
> 
>> On 9/13/2019 3:24 PM, Mike Markowski wrote:
>> Can you expand on this, Ken, or if easier, a reference?  I'm curious what 
>> tradeoffs are made.  I used a rhombic at Ft. Monmouth, NJ before the Army 
>> base was closed in 2011, and used to boom into Europe and Russia.  It was 
>> amazing.  I also got copies of WWII manuals on rhombic construction while 
>> there.  You know, just in case I became wealthy with tens of acres of land.  
>> :-)
>> 
>> 73,
>> Mike ab3ap
> 
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Re: [Elecraft] TX Delay

[Vic Rosenthal]

There used to be a problem with the K3 before the updated synthesizer came out; 
at just around 30 wpm the keying would start to sound erratic. But with the new 
synthesizer installed in a K3, or a K3S, there’s no problem at any speed I can 
send at, even with QRQ mode off.

Victor 4X6GP 

> On 24 Aug 2019, at 16:16, Peter Chamalian  wrote:
> 
> Thanks Vic.  I put in a query to Elecraft support about it and am awaiting 
> their reply.
> 
> I may have accidentally put the K3S into QRQ mode but my 35 wpm sending 
> hardly qualifies as that.
> 
> 
> Pete, W1RM
> w...@comcast.net
> 
> -Original Message-
> From: Vic Rosenthal  
> Sent: Saturday, August 24, 2019 9:11 AM
> To: Peter Chamalian 
> Cc: Elecraft 
> Subject: Re: [Elecraft] TX Delay
> 
> I haven’t tested it, but I recall that the delay is shortened if you use QRQ 
> mode. With the K3S synthesizer, you really don’t need QRQ mode for reasonable 
> hand sending speeds, so turn it off in the menu.
> 
> Victor 4X6GP 
> 
>> On 23 Aug 2019, at 17:28, Peter Chamalian  wrote:
>> 
>> I received a report of what seemed to be hot switching artifacts when 
>> running QSK with my SPE 2K amp.  The K3S was set for the default TX 
>> Delay but the friend who reported the issue later found an email from 
>> Wayne indicating there was some issue with the default TX Delay of 8ms 
>> actually being more like 5ms which would explain the issue.
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> I've not seen anything more about this and wonder if I've missed 
>> something or Elecraft still working on it?
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> In the interim I've increased the value from 8ms to 11ms which should 
>> put it in line with the actual 8ms default.
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> Pete, W1RM
>> 
>> w...@comcast.net
>> 
>> 
>> 
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Re: [Elecraft] TX Delay

[Vic Rosenthal]

I haven’t tested it, but I recall that the delay is shortened if you use QRQ 
mode. With the K3S synthesizer, you really don’t need QRQ mode for reasonable 
hand sending speeds, so turn it off in the menu.

Victor 4X6GP 

> On 23 Aug 2019, at 17:28, Peter Chamalian  wrote:
> 
> I received a report of what seemed to be hot switching artifacts when
> running QSK with my SPE 2K amp.  The K3S was set for the default TX Delay
> but the friend who reported the issue later found an email from Wayne
> indicating there was some issue with the default TX Delay of 8ms actually
> being more like 5ms which would explain the issue.
> 
> 
> 
> I've not seen anything more about this and wonder if I've missed something
> or Elecraft still working on it?
> 
> 
> 
> In the interim I've increased the value from 8ms to 11ms which should put it
> in line with the actual 8ms default.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Pete, W1RM
> 
> w...@comcast.net
> 
> 
> 
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Re: [Elecraft] Dedicated FTx Rig

[Vic Rosenthal]

You’d probably end up with a computer anyway (except perhaps for portable 
operations) to do all the functions other than the ones that WSJT handles. For 
example, I check propagation, point my antenna, receive cluster and RBN spots, 
maintain a log of tens of thousands of QSOs in various modes and keep track of 
award progress, upload QSO data to Clublog in real time, upload to LOTW after 
each session and update my log with results, receive WhatsApp messages, and 
more.
If you had an onboard computer, you would still end up dumping data to an 
external one on a regular basis anyway. I think the division of labor between a 
rig and external computer is just about right.
Now if you are backpacking and just making a few QSOs for fun, that’s another 
story.

Victor 4X6GP 

> On 10 Aug 2019, at 23:40, David Gilbert  wrote:
> 
> 
> I'm certain this is not an original idea, but I wonder if somebody will ever 
> come out with a dedicated all-in-one notebook-sized portable rig for the 
> FT-type digital modes.  I'm pretty new to FT8/4 but I find it interesting 
> that when I'm operating it all I ever do with my K3 is turn it on and make 
> band changes since everything else is done on my computer.  I wouldn't even 
> need to do that much on the K3 if WSJT-X had a button to make band changes.
> 
> Possibly such a unit might look like:
> 
> 1.  12 volt operation (10 watts output) for portable use
> 
> 2.  large enough screen to be practical
> 
> 3.  running modified (mouseless) version of WSJT-X  to allow up/down arrow 
> keys for:
> 
> a.  band selection
> b.  frequency change in 2 KHz increments
> c.  mode selection
> d.  contact selection from activity window
> e.  TX1-TX6 sequence override
> f.   transmit enable/disable
> 
> 4.  a button to momentarily press for log, press/hold to autolog
> 
> 5.  USB port to run modified WSJT-X from flash drive for easy upgrade and log 
> transfer
> 
> 6.  internal antenna tuner (could be manual)
> 
> 7.  etc.
> 
> Rigs dedicated to specific modes have never been very popular, but I suspect 
> that FTx might change that and I suspect an integrated low power SDR version 
> could end up being fairly inexpensive.  A side advantage is that audio levels 
> would be preset in hardware and we'd see less overdrive situations.  ;)
> 
> Anybody know if there is already something like this out there?  I can find 
> small inexpensive transceivers designed for FT8, but they still require a 
> separate computer.
> 
> Just some ramblings on a rainy day ...
> 
> 73,
> Dave   AB7E
> 
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Re: [Elecraft] Antenna or KAT500/KPA500 Problem

[Vic Rosenthal]

It is possible that the ferrites are heating. If that is the case, you could 
test it by transmitting a steady carrier for a minute while watching the SWR. 
If it’s heating, there should be a gradual rise.
Twin lead will change characteristics significantly when it gets wet. So will 
ladder line, although not as much. So if this happens when it rains, that’s the 
issue.
There is also the possibility that there is a badly corroded connection inside 
the balun which opens when something expands due to heat. I once had this 
problem with what seemed to me to be a very well-constructed bead balun. The 
connection to the coax connector was the culprit. It was hard to find because 
it was intermittent.
If you replace the twinlead with ladder line, it will need to be slightly 
longer because the ladder line has a greater velocity factor than the twinlead. 
The Vf of twinlead is about 78% and of ladder line 91% so it will be longer by 
a factor of 1.17.

Victor 4X6GP 

> On 7 Aug 2019, at 5:00, Mike Lichtman via Elecraft  
> wrote:
> 
>Every so often at random after I have been on SSB for a while  ( 80m with 
> about 450w and a 1.1 to 1 SWR)  my tuner jumps to retune or the amp faults 
> and switches to standby. I am using a Van Gorden full size (102’) G5RV as 
> an inverted vee. The 31’ matching section is 300 ohm twin lead and, even 
> though it has been up for 10yrs, is still flexible. Van Gordon is now out of 
> business. The twin lead goes into a 3/4” pvc pipe and coax comes out the 
> other end.
> I am thinking that the 12” long pipe section has ferrite beads to cut common 
> mode currents. I don’t know what wattage the ferrites are rated for. 
>   Someone suggested that the ferrites might be heating up and causing my 
> problem since the problem occurs after being on the air a while and could be 
> thermal. 
>My questions are:
>I have some new 450 ohm ladder line. Should I replace the 300 
> ohm with it? I know that most G5RV’s on the market today use 450 ohm not 
> twinlead. If so what kind of line isolator is needed or what balun?  Should I 
>  just replace the ferrite beads — and if so with what no. and mix. Can I just 
> use an ugly balun (coiled coax). All thoughts are appreciated. The antenna 
> itself has worked fine for me on all bands (80 thru 10) and I have worked all 
> continents except Antarctica. Thank you in advance and 73 Mike KF6KXG
>
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Re: [Elecraft] [Way (OT)] Pedantic comment about metric usage

[Vic Rosenthal]

No. 14 is wrong, of course. One million microphones is one phone, and a million 
phones is a megaphone.

Victor 4X6GP 

> On 31 Jul 2019, at 0:01, Jim KO5V  wrote:
> 
> These are wonderful, but I didn't see the millihelen: the quantity of face 
> required to launch only one ship.
> 
> I really liked #17:, two kilomockingbirds...
> 
> 73, Jim
> 
> "Like these?:
> 
> 1. Ratio of an igloo's circumference to its diameter = Eskimo Pi
> 
> 2. 2000 pounds of Chinese soup = Won ton
> 
> 3. 1 millionth of a mouthwash = 1 microscope
> 
> 4. Time between slipping on a peel and smacking the pavement = 1
> bananosecond
> 
> 5. Weight an evangelist carries with God = 1 billigram
> 
> 6. Time it takes to sail 220 yards at 1 nautical mile per hour =
> Knotfurlong
> 
> 7. 364.25 days of drinking low calorie beer = 1 Lite year
> 
> 8. 16.5 feet in the Twilight Zone = 1 Rod Serling
> 
> 9. Half a large intestine = 1 semicolon
> 
> 10. 1,000,000 aches = 1 megahurtz
> 
> 11. Basic unit of laryngitis - 1 hoarsepower
> 
> 12. Shortest distance between two jokes - a straight line
> 
> 13. 453.6 graham crackers = 1 pound cake
> 
> 14. 1 million microphones = 1 megaphone
> 
> 15. 1 million bicycles = 1 megacycles
> 
> 16. 365.25 days = 1 unicycle
> 
> 17. 2000 mockingbirds = two kilomockingbirds
> 
> 18. 10 cards = 1 decacard
> 
> 19. 52 cards = 1 deckacard
> 
> 20. 1 kilogram of falling figs = 1 fig Newton
> 
> 21. 1000 grams of wet socks = 1 literhosen
> 
> 22. 1 millionth of a fish = 1 microfiche
> 
> 23. 1 trillion pins = 1 terrapin
> 
> 24. 10 rations = 1 decaration
> 
> 25. 100 rations = 1 C-ration
> 
> 26. 2 monograms = 1 diagram
> 
> 27. 8 nickels = 2 paradigms
> 
> 28. 2.4 statute miles of intravenous surgical tubing at Yale University
> Hospital = 1 I.V. League"
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Re: [Elecraft] Windows Update and the K3 USB Audio

[Vic Rosenthal]

If your radio computers must be connected to the internet, as mine are for DX 
clusters, Club Log, firmware updates, etc., etc., then this may not be a good 
idea, since older systems are targets for malware. When MS stops supplying 
security patches, the situation will become even worse.

Victor 4X6GP 

> On 30 Jul 2019, at 23:49, Jim Brown  wrote:
> 
>> On 7/30/2019 12:02 PM, Andy Durbin wrote:
>> I avoided all the Win 10 pain by not installing it.
> 
> YES! For exactly this reason, I've paid extra to buy computers with Win7 
> rather than Win10 for radio.
> 
> 73, Jim K9YC
> 
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Re: [Elecraft] AF Limit?

[Vic Rosenthal]

I would like it. I use minimal AGC and it would be ear protection.

Victor 4X6GP 

> On 26 Jul 2019, at 3:29, Wayne Burdick  wrote:
> 
> At present the AF limiter only applies when AGC is off. We could add a 
> separate AGC-on limiter setting if needed. 
> 
> Wayne
> N6KR
> 
> 
> elecraft.com
> 
>> On Jul 25, 2019, at 6:41 PM, Rich  wrote:
>> 
>> Does the AF Limit always keep the audio level at the given setting or just 
>> when the AGC is OFF?
>> 
>> Rich
>> K3RWN
>> 
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Re: [Elecraft] K3S subreceiver sound "problem"

[Vic Rosenthal]

If the a/b switch causes the problem to move, then it is something connected to 
bandwidth (etc.) settings and not a hardware issue with the subrx. The a/b 
switch doesn’t change which receiver goes to which ear (etc.)

Victor 4X6GP 

> On 2 Jul 2019, at 3:02, Robert G Strickland via Elecraft 
>  wrote:
> 
> I put "problem" in quotes because it's not clear where the "problem" is: me 
> or the radio.
> 
> I recently purchased an Elecraft assembled and tested K3S with a subreceiver 
> and its own 400cps filter. The main receiver has the following filters: 2.8, 
> 1.9, 500 & 200. When I listen to both receivers through good quality 
> headphones, the subreceiver sounds muffled, dull, maybe a bit less volume 
> when the gain and audio settings are identical, all the while the main 
> receiver is crisp and clear. Reversing the head phones reverses the effect 
> which, I think, rules out my hearing and hearing aids.  Reversing things with 
> the A/B switch makes the left channel muffled and dull. I've tried a whole 
> lot of different setup parameters, read the manual and Cady's book carefully, 
> but I can't come up with anything the brightens up the subreceiver. Any 
> suggestions?
> Thanks.
> 
> ...robert
> -- 
> Robert G Strickland, PhD ABPH - KE2WY
> rc...@verizon.net.usa
> Syracuse, New York, USA
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Re: [Elecraft] FIELD DAY PREP

[Vic Rosenthal]

One of the worst FD problems I’ve experienced was a Japanese transceiver (I’ve 
honestly forgotten the brand) in the SSB tent that transmitted a wideband hiss 
whenever the PTT was closed. We couldn’t operate CW on the same band even 
though there was no problem caused by his SSB signal.

Victor 4X6GP 

> On 14 Jun 2019, at 20:52, Bob McGraw K4TAX  wrote:
> 
> So was the issue the result of poor shielding and connectors of cables inside 
> the trailer or actual antenna separation?  That would do it. 
> 
> And could the SSB station be pushing the power and ALC and compression thus 
> likely causing distortion and splatter?   That would do it. 
> 
> One of my major pet gripes for net control operators and contest operators is 
> the fact they believe turning things up a bit with the thinking they will be 
> heard a bit betterWhen in fact they are making their signal more 
> difficult to copy.   If their station sounds good during SSB rag chew QSO's 
> the the same settings should also be good for contests, Field Day, and when a 
> net control.  The mentality of turning things up a wee bit is just pure B. S. 
> 
> Bob, K4TAX
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone
> 
>> On Jun 14, 2019, at 10:52 AM, KENT TRIMBLE  wrote:
>> 
>> Good morning, Bob . . .
>> 
>> We normally use 75-100 feet separation between dipoles aligned end-to-end, 
>> and have had no problems over the years.  However, last year we were limited 
>> to less than 50-feet separation and I noticed the Carrier Operated Relay 
>> (COR) in my K3 was kicking on occasionally from the SSB station with which 
>> we (CW) were obliged to share a trailer.
>> 
>> I tried a TRP-150 for the first time on the air this morning and a station 
>> in Michigan detected no clicks, truncating, or other aberrations.
>> 
>> We'll see.
>> 
>> 73,
>> 
>> Kent  K9ZTV
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> 
>>> On 6/14/2019 10:24 AM, Bob McGraw K4TAX wrote:
>>> With stations running 100 watts or less and reasonable antenna separation, 
>>> I've found no reason for a Receiver Input Protector. Although, it might be 
>>> a good idea to circumvent a "screw up" by an operator.   I've seen some 
>>> mighty strange things done by knowledgeable hams at Field Day.
>>> 
>>> 73
>>> 
>>> Bob, K4TAX
>>> 
>>> 
 On 6/14/2019 10:07 AM, KENT TRIMBLE wrote:
 Have any of you used Ameritron's "Receiver Input Protector" model TRP-150? 
  I find no reviews on eHam.
 
 73,
 
 Kent  K9ZTV
 
>>> 
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Re: [Elecraft] Location of VFO B on the K4

[Vic Rosenthal]

I love my K3, but like in anything you love, there are things you hate. In my 
case they are the touch/hold interface and BSET (which is also a hold 
function). I know the tradeoffs, but I still wish for dedicated controls.

Here’s an unrelated thing that might be possible as an option on the K4: in CW 
mode, what if the gain increased gradually as you decreased the bandwidth? It 
would give a feeling of focusing on a signal.

Just a thought.

Victor 4X6GP 

> On 25 May 2019, at 23:45, Steve Lawrence via Elecraft 
>  wrote:
> 
> I always have the DX on VFO A on my K3 because this allows quick adjustment 
> of receiving controls - NR NB Width Shift etc - not so straight forward if 
> the DX is on B.
> 
> With VFO B wide open it's much easier - for me - to assess and move around in 
> a pile up.
> 
> Everyone has their method. This works for me with the purpose of spending as 
> little time as possible in a pile up.
> 
> There's no right nor wrong - just different.
> 
> Ergonomically you might not have laid out something the same way but you'll 
> likely get use to it fairly fast.
> 
> "The only constant is change."
> 
> 73 - Steve WB6RSE
> 
>> 
>> On May 25, 2019, at 1:27 PM, Don Wilhelm  wrote:
>> 
>> Since any K4 has the subRX built in, I don't see the problem, although some 
>> changes in operating habits may be in order.
>> 
>> For working DX, tune to the DX station with VFO A - then put VFO A into VFO 
>> B - Listen to the DX on the subRX.
>> 
>> Then tune with VFO A for a suitable transmit frequency.  Never a need to 
>> touch the VFO B knob, and no need to turn on SPLIT - always transmit on VFO 
>> A frequency.
>> 
>> The only reason to touch the VFO B knob would be if and when the DX decides 
>> to move his transmit frequency.
>> 
>> For contests folks will likely use RIT/XIT more than VFO B (except when 
>> scanning another band for multipliers), and for that type operation the 
>> K-Pod would be a desirable addition for many reasons, including easy access 
>> to Macros.
>> 
>> 73,
>> Don W3FPR
>> 
>>> On 5/25/2019 3:56 PM, Bill Steffey wrote:
>>> I rarely use RIT/XIT...   and the B VFO  frequently
>>>   so after November I may HAVE to use the K-POD more than I have been. 
>> 
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Re: [Elecraft] Two Receivers

[Vic Rosenthal]

But how can you figure out the pattern (or lack thereof) if you can’t find the 
stations he worked?

Victor 4X6GP 

> On 17 May 2019, at 23:33, Wes  wrote:
> 
> I probably shouldn't give away secrets but if you try this on some big 
> DXpeditions, you will be sorely disappointed.
> 
> For example when I was calling VP8STI on RTTY (my friend AA7A operating) I 
> tried calling on his last listen frequency but he never seemed to call two 
> stations who were on the same frequency.  So I started looking for a pattern; 
> many guys will tune up (or down) a few Hz or kHz and pick another caller.  
> This didn't seem to be the case either.  After nearly two hours I finally 
> determined his pattern was he didn't have one, he randomly tuned after 
> every Q.  I finally picked a relatively clear frequency and called for awhile 
> until he found me.  I queried him about this later and he confirmed.
> 
> In either of these cases you really don't need a second RX to figure this 
> out.  Your time is better spent learning sequences and planning when and 
> where to call instead of constantly tuning trying to find the last guy 
> worked. Besides all of the other two-receiver guys who don't know any better 
> are going to be calling on the same frequency too.
> 
> Wes  N7WS
> 
>> On 5/17/2019 11:27 AM, William Levy wrote:
>> snip---Interesting thing that 2nd RX. You put
>> the DX on the RX and you find the guy talking to him with the transceiver
>> and that is called a SLAM DUNK.
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Re: [Elecraft] K4

[Vic Rosenthal]

And you worked for the CIA when?
I was in the K3 focus group. I didn’t even tell my wife.

Victor 4X6GP 

> On 17 May 2019, at 8:30, Dave Cole (NK7Z)  wrote:
> 
> It will be interesting to go through the for sale ads on QRZ, and QTH looking 
> at who sold a K3S in the months leading up to the release date of the K4, 
> then do the same for the time period of the K3 to K3S transition.
> 
> If it is the same people, then we can guess at who had advanced knowledge, 
> and who to watch next time...
> 
> 73s and thanks,
> Dave (NK7Z)
> https://www.nk7z.net
> ARRL Technical Specialist
> ARRL Volunteer Examiner
> ARRL Asst. Director, NW Division, Technical Resource
> 
>> On 5/16/19 9:43 PM, Alan wrote:
>> I'm always amazed at what a great job Elecraft does keeping major new 
>> products secret throughout a long, multi-year development cycle.  There were 
>> engineers and others throughout the country (and the world) who knew about 
>> it but never let it slip.
>> Alan N1AL
>>> On 5/16/19 12:44 PM, Ken Widelitz wrote:
>>> Wayne and Eric are like Mueller and his investigators - No leaks.
>>> 
>>> 
>>> 73, Ken, K6LA / VY2TT
>>> 
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Re: [Elecraft] KPA1500 LOW GAIN FAULT

[Vic Rosenthal]

The first thing to do with any amplifier failure is to try it with a dummy 
load. If the problem still occurs, you can rule out SWR or RF feedback 
problems. It doesn’t seem like any of the above if it occurs on all bands, but 
it’s easy and a good start to a systematic diagnosis.

Victor 4X6GP 

> On 30 Apr 2019, at 5:35, Ed gilliland  wrote:
> 
> My KPA1500 is faulting with a low gain alarm ration 6.  This is with 23 watts 
> input 160-10 meters.  Any advice?
> 
> Thanks, Ed W5TM
> 
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[Elecraft] Modularity

[Vic Rosenthal]

All this talk about onboard computers (or not) and operating systems in the K4 
has me thinking.
My K3 is serial no. 0007. I have had it since the beginning, and with a few 
simple upgrades, it is almost as capable as a new K3S. But the computers I had 
back then are long gone.
What I would like to have in the K4 is a backplane architecture. The entire 
radio except for a control head would be located on plugin boards that could be 
swapped out easily for testing, customizing, or upgrading. The ENTIRE radio. 
The K3 goes in this direction, but not far enough.
One of the options would be an onboard computer. You could use the rig without 
it or with an external computer if you wish. Maybe it would come with some 
version of Linux, but you could put another version of Linux or Windows on it 
if you wanted. You could upgrade it easily when it became obsolete.
Yes, this would cost more. But with the savings available from modern automated 
surface mount construction, maybe it’s possible.

Victor 4X6GP 
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Re: [Elecraft] K3 XFIL Button

[Vic Rosenthal]

The XFIL button is my least favorite feature of the K3 user interface.
I always use the knob to change the bandwidth — except when I accidentally 
don’t hold the button long enough when activating or deactivating the APF, 
which I do a lot.

Victor 4X6GP 

> On 21 Feb 2019, at 13:40, Ed G  wrote:
> 
> Thanks Don.  I will have to experiement more using the DUAL PB. I have that 
> button set up for APF right now.
> --Ed—
> 
> 
> Sent from Mail for Windows 10
> 
> From: Don Wilhelm
> Sent: Wednesday, February 20, 2019 6:00 PM
> To: Ed G; elecraft@mailman.qth.net
> Subject: Re: [Elecraft] K3 XFIL Button
> 
> Ed,
> 
> Keep in mind that the DSP provides the ultimate filter width, the one 
> situation you asked about - roofing filter wider than the DSP filter is 
> already present - just set the filter configuration to "lie" about the 
> actual filter width, and the roofing filter will be switched in at a DSP 
> width that is wider than the roofing filter.
> 
> The other (DSP filter wider than the roofing filter) does not make much 
> sense to me.  Yes, in the filter configuration, you can tell the K3 that 
> the (for example) 400Hz filter is really a 600 Hz filter, then you have 
> accomplished what you desire.
> 
> I do not have much use for the XFIL button and never use it. I let the 
> Width control (or HiCut/LoCUT for SSB) switch in whichever roofing 
> filter is appropriate and consistent with the DSP width I have selected 
> and it works well.
> 
> The DSP filter width is a "brick wall filter" and you will not be able 
> to hear signals outside that bandwidth.
> 
> Keep in mind the purpose of the roofing filters.  In a crowded band, the 
> roofing filters keep strong adjacent stations from activating the 
> Hardware AGC which is there to protect the ADC from overloading.  In 
> other words (again using the 400Hz roofing filter example), if you have 
> the DSP bandwidth set at 300Hz centered on [150Hz plus sidetone pitch = 
> 750 Hz], and you have a very strong signal at 850 Hz, you will not hear 
> the strong signal because of the DSP width, but it will activate the 
> hardware AGC causing the AGC to 'pump' and the receiver sensitivity will 
> be reduced as a result of that 'pumping' - even though you cannot hear 
> the signal.
> 
> As an alternative, you might want to try turning on DUAL PB in the menu 
> which will give you a wider passband that is attenuated from the narrow 
> filter peak (or focus).  I believe that will give you what you seek.
> 
> 73,
> Don W3FPR
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Re: [Elecraft] Slightly Unbalanced dipole?

[Vic Rosenthal]

I’ve measured common mode current when feeding a balanced line with a good DX 
Engineering 1:1 balun and an unbalanced tuner, versus a real balanced 
link-coupled tuner (Johnson Matchbox). To my surprise, the currents are closer 
to equal with the unbalanced tuner and the balun! But the Matchbox seems 
quieter.
More investigation needed...

Victor 4X6GP 

> On 14 Jan 2019, at 2:44, Al Lorona  wrote:
> 
> You guys keep talking about coax-fed antennas. Yes, although it may be easy 
> to wind coax around a toroid and put it up at the antenna midpoint, that's 
> not so easy with open-wire line. This discussion was very coax-centric and I 
> wanted to open your minds that not everybody feeds their antenna with coax.
> 
> Balanced feedlines ("window line" or "open-wire" line) can have significant 
> common-mode current. They're not immune to the effect. (I know you know this; 
> I'm saying it for the benefit of all.) A device with high common-mode 
> impedance, located right at the output of the tuner, suppresses common-mode 
> current on a (balanced) feedline. That's it's purpose.
> 
> I'm in agreement with you about the 1/ cause of common-mode current and the 
> 2/ cure for it. I'm simply saying that for convenience's sake, consider 
> putting the choke at the tuner output.
> 
> A choke with high Z to common-mode current, external to the tuner, in a 
> non-conductive box, with as short a connection to the tuner as possible, does 
> quite well at suppressing common-mode current. I'll be happy to share my 
> measurements with you. 
> 
> There is no coax anywhere in my antenna system. So my solution was to put a 
> choke with high impedance to common-mode current right at the output of my 
> antenna tuner. I encourage users of open-wire line to do that.
> 
> Al  W6LX
> 
 In all cases of a radiator fed with coax, 
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Re: [Elecraft] Slightly Unbalanced dipole?

[Vic Rosenthal]

Why would a common mode choke at the antenna feedpoint present more problems 
than the common practice of feeding a balanced line through a single-ended 
tuner and balun?
I’ve done a lot of experimenting with the latter and have learned that a) the 
best configuration is with a 1:1 balun, and b) the balun will become lossy and 
heat up if the impedance it sees is highly reactive. The solution to b) is to 
cancel the reactance by putting the appropriate opposite reactance in both 
sides of the line between the balun and the antenna. Of course this means added 
complexity.
I would love to figure out how to make a choke that would work with balanced 
line at the antenna feedpoint, on multiple bands without any additional 
components.
FWIW I’ve switched to a real balanced tuner (Johnson Matchbox). 

Victor 4X6GP 

> On 14 Jan 2019, at 1:42, Al Lorona  wrote:
> 
> By the way, whenever Jim says, "...a very good common mode choke at the 
> feedpoint of an antenna...," he means an antenna fed with coax. For the rest 
> of us, of course, that choke would (should) go at the output of the antenna 
> tuner, whether in the shack or close by.
> 
> Al  W6LX
> 
>  
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Re: [Elecraft] ERR TXF

[Vic Rosenthal]

Select AM mode and then go to CONFIG:FLTX.
Or (better) use the he configuration tab of the K3 utility, as Don suggested.

Victor 4X6GP 

> On 10 Jan 2019, at 21:04, Mpridesti  wrote:
> 
> Ok understand except how do you select AM and have it stay?
> 
> Went to the CONFIG menu and selected FLTX (it shows CW in al FL numbers)  
> Tried to select a different mode I.e. AM but it does not stay AM
> 
> Regards,
> Mark, K1RX 
> 
> 
>> On Jan 10, 2019, at 1:49 PM, Victor Rosenthal 4X6GP  
>> wrote:
>> 
>> This error is caused by selecting a filter other than the 2.8 or 2.7 kHz 
>> filter as the transmit filter. Use CONFIG:FLTX to select that filter for 
>> CW/DATA/SSB. (Except if you have FM (13 kHz) or AM filters (6 kHz) you must 
>> select those filters in the FM and AM modes).
>> 
>> 73,
>> Victor, 4X6GP
>> Rehovot, Israel
>> Formerly K2VCO
>> CWops no. 5
>> http://www.qsl.net/k2vco/
>>> On 10 Jan 2019 20:08, Mpridesti via Elecraft wrote:
>>> Strange issue
>>> I setup the K3 for diversity RX
>>> Now I can not transmit CW. I get an ERR TXF
>>> indication. What needs to be changed to correct?
>>> Regards,
>>> Mark Pride
>>> 603-231-8965
> 
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Re: [Elecraft] Tuners and spurious responses

[Vic Rosenthal]

I have a 50 kW BC station in line of sight with my antenna. When I used a 
vertical antenna without a tuner, it was enough to overpower the bias in the 
K3’s T/R switch and generate spurs all over 40 and 30 meters. I fixed it with a 
highpass filter before changing to a horizontal antenna .
When I rotate my dipole, there is a point where one end gets close to a 
structure. The tuning changes, so I know it has an effect, which must unbalance 
the system. Maybe coincidentally and maybe not, local noise increases at that 
point. I think I will try isolating the tuner from ground and feeding it 
through a balun.

Victor 4X6GP 

> On 22 Dec 2018, at 9:05, Al Lorona  wrote:
> 
> Vic, it may well be your imagination (!) but you may also be hearing the 
> rejection that your tuner gives you, particularly to strong AM stations in 
> the broadcast band. My measurements, as well as circuit simulation, show 
> about a 40 dB rejection of AM stations when the tuner is tuned to 40 meters.
> 
> Circuit simulation of the Johnson circuit shows not all that high a Q, but it 
> certainly is starting to look like a broad bandpass response. (It's actually  
> more high-pass than band-pass.) That's why it's effective against the 
> broadcast band. It's yet another argument to use a tuner like that one.
> 
> Interestingly, I just moved from a link-coupled tuner back to an unbalanced 
> tuner with balun because my measurements of common-mode current on the 
> transmission line show that the balun is more effective at suppressing it. 
> The link-coupled tuner acts more like a voltage balun which would be okay if 
> the antenna were inherently balanced, but in many cases the current balun 
> suppresses common-mode better when the antenna is in an environment that 
> makes it not well-balanced. When power lines or houses or cars or other 
> things are in the antenna's near field it tends to make the antenna present 
> an unbalanced load to the transmission line. That's when equal currents (not 
> voltages) work better. But I'm repeating what has long been known.
> 
> If you can measure this stuff, like with an RF current meter, it becomes much 
> clearer.
> 
> Enjoy your new, cleaner reception, thanks to that tuner!
> 
> Al  W6LX
> 
> 
 This may be totally imaginary, 
 -- 
 73,
 Victor, 4X6GP
> 
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Re: [Elecraft] I am flummoxed about my antenna

[Vic Rosenthal]

1. The resonant point seems to be at 1.80 or below.
2. The broad response indicates high loss somewhere. If you hadn’t said that 
you changed it, I would suspect water in the coax.

Victor 4X6GP 

> On 1 Dec 2018, at 18:54, Leroy Buller  wrote:
> 
> There
> I tried to get on 160 with my Inverted L last night.  60 feet up and the
> rest over to a tree, 130 feet total.  About 20 random length radials in the
> yard.  The best I can do with a city lot.  This antenna worked last year
> very well, but now I get this
> 
> 12/1/2018 10:46:08 AM NOTES:
> 
> Frequency SWR
> - ---
> 00180 1.3
> 00181 1.4
> 00182 1.4
> 00183 1.4
> 00184 1.4
> 00185 1.5
> 00186 1.6
> 00187 1.6
> 00188 1.5
> 00189 1.5
> 00190 1.6
> 00191 1.6
> 00192 1.6
> 00193 1.6
> 00194 1.6
> 00195 1.6
> 00196 1.6
> 00197 1.7
> 00198 1.8
> 00199 2.0
> 00200 2.1
> 
> There seems to be NO resonance at all with this antenna.  Before, I could
> operate the bottom of the band but nothing above 1850 without a tuner.  I
> have changed out the coax feeding the antenna which hepl bring signals up,
> but it seems to be a dummy load.
> 
> Anyone have an idea what is going on?  Shucks, I am out of ideas.  Unless
> my ground plane has gone wonky
> 
> My tuner can't find a match for it either.  I have an automatice tuner now,
> but it cannot find a match.  Something is wrong here and I am stumped.
> 
> Any help from the antenna gurus out there?
> 
> Lee - K0WA
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Re: [Elecraft] Avoiding costly lightning damage to your radios gear

[Vic Rosenthal]

I have homemade adjustable spark gaps on my open wire line. It’s important to 
realize that voltages from normal operation on open wire lines can be quite 
high. My installation is atypical since I run a very high SWR on some bands, 
but the TLW program calculates as much as 7kv at the entrance to my shack on 40 
meters! I saw some serious arcs before I got everything sized properly. I got a 
couple of 10 meg 10kv resistors from Mouser to use as static drains.

Victor 4X6GP 

> On 31 Oct 2018, at 1:18, Fred Jensen  wrote:
> 
> Open wire feedlines used to have "spark balls" for lightning protection on 
> high power transmitter installations. Admittedly, the transmitters used tubes.
> 
> 73,
> 
> Fred ["Skip"] K6DGW
> Sparks NV DM09dn
> Washoe County
> 
>> On 10/30/2018 2:32 PM, rv6amark via Elecraft wrote:
>> Re:  "Spark plugs fire at 12,000 to 25,000 Volts. Some require as much as 
>> 45,000 V."
>> 
>> That is at the pressure inside the combustion chamber.  At atmospheric  
>> pressure, they fire at much lower voltages; however, Walter's point is still 
>> valid.  Turn on voltage is far more reliable with gas discharge tubes.  
>> Sparkplugs were probably more helpful  with tube gear than with today's 
>> solid state gear.
>> 
>> Mark
>> KE6BB
>> 
>> 
>> null
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>> --
>> This message has been scanned by E.F.A. Project and is believed to be clean.
>> 
>> 
> 
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Re: [Elecraft] new owner looking for fuses.

[Vic Rosenthal]

Sorry, I misunderstood. You are quite right that the current drawn at the lower 
voltage will be double for the same power output.

Victor 4X6GP 

> On 15 Jul 2018, at 18:38,   wrote:
> 
> I did not state the fuse current rating is dependent on the voltage, only 
> that you will need much higher amperage fuses (according to Georg Ohm) if you 
> changed the wiring of a 240v amp to 120v.
>  
> John KK9A
>  
> From: Vic Rosenthal [mailto:k2vco@gmail.com] 
> Sent: Sunday, July 15, 2018 12:58 
> To: j...@kk9a.com
> Cc: Elecraft Reflector
> Subject: Re: [Elecraft] new owner looking for fuses.
>  
> This is incorrect!
> The current rating of a fuse is independent of the voltage.
> The fuse blows as a result of heat, which is proportional to I squared times 
> R. 
> The voltage rating is just a guarantee that if it does blow, it won’t stay 
> conductive due to an arc.
>  
> Victor 4X6GP 
> 
> On 15 Jul 2018, at 5:21,   wrote:
> 
> Correction: I believe that there are conditions where you would have 240
> volts on the fuse in a standard single phase 240v circuit so it's best to
> use the standard 250v fuses. Of course 250v fuses are also fine with 120v
> amp wiring but the amperage will double.
> 
> GL
> 
> John KK9A
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Re: [Elecraft] new owner looking for fuses.

[Vic Rosenthal]

This is incorrect!
The current rating of a fuse is independent of the voltage.
The fuse blows as a result of heat, which is proportional to I squared times R. 
The voltage rating is just a guarantee that if it does blow, it won’t stay 
conductive due to an arc.

Victor 4X6GP 

> On 15 Jul 2018, at 5:21,   wrote:
> 
> Correction: I believe that there are conditions where you would have 240
> volts on the fuse in a standard single phase 240v circuit so it's best to
> use the standard 250v fuses. Of course 250v fuses are also fine with 120v
> amp wiring but the amperage will double.
> 
> GL
> 
> John KK9A
> 
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Re: [Elecraft] P3 display versus FlexRadio

[Vic Rosenthal]

This is what I do. Then I read the noise level in dBm from the screen. Very 
useful to compare noise levels at different times, etc.

But what I would like is a menu command that could be assigned to one of the 
function keys to automatically compute the average noise level and then adjust 
the ref level.

There would have to be an adjustment for an offset from the average, so you 
could set it up once to look the way you like it.

Then you could just tap the key whenever you want to readjust the ref level, 
and it would alway look the same.

Vic 4X6GP 

> On 13 May 2018, at 5:43, Wayne Burdick  wrote:
> 
> Hi Jim,
> 
> They may be automatically calculating a long-term-average noise floor, then 
> subtracting it from the waterfall. The P3 could do the same thing. But 
> automatic noise subtraction would have the same disadvantage as slow AGC: a 
> temporary rise in the noise floor would mask weak signals for the duration of 
> the averaging time constant.
> 
> You can achieve the same thing manually, without the averaging issue. Simply 
> adjust the REF level such that the noise floor is just at or slightly below 
> the line. The waterfall will then be nearly invisible except for signals and 
> higher noise peaks.
> 
> Wayne
> N6KR
> 
> 
> 
> http://www.elecraft.com
> 
>> On May 12, 2018, at 5:54 PM, Jim N7US  wrote:
>> 
>> I saw a demo last night of the FlexRadio bandscope.  It showed the noise
>> well above, on the Y-axis, the bottom of the display, but the waterfall
>> didn't show the noise, just the signals on the band.  
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> When I set the REL LVL on my P3 so the noise floor is below the noise, the
>> waterfall is blue from the noise, making it difficult to see the signals.
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> Can someone enlighten me as to why the displays are so different?
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> 73, Jim N7US
>> 
>> 
>> 
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Re: [Elecraft] [K2] auto tuner capabilities

[Vic Rosenthal]

It’s great. It matches almost anything. In the field I just hook a wire to the 
end of a fishing pole and throw a counterpoise on the ground. Very quick and 
easy. I highly recommend it.

Vic 4X6GP 

> On 4 May 2018, at 5:42, Robert G Strickland  wrote:
> 
> I've seen and read a great deal about feeding random lengths of wire, usually 
> end fed, in QRP operation. All sorts of tuners and counterpoises are proposed 
> and discussed. Question: is the K2 auto tuner sufficient and effective in 
> these types of situations? I'm thinking of building and installing one, and 
> I'd like to know if the tuner will take care of "most" arrangements, or will 
> I still need something outboard. Thanks for any and all comments.
> 
> ...robert
> -- 
> Robert G Strickland, PhD ABPH - KE2WY
> rc...@verizon.net.usa
> Syracuse, New York, USA
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Re: [Elecraft] Issue 12 re Astron Power Supply

[Vic Rosenthal]

But I keep coming back to this: almost every device connected to the power 
supply has V- connected to ground internally. So if you have, say, a keyer and 
a transceiver running off the same supply, won’t some of the transceiver’s 
current flow through the V- line to the keyer, to the case of the keyer via the 
internal connection, to the station bonding, to the transceiver case and thence 
to the transceiver V- input?

In short, don’t the accessories fed from the same PS as the transceiver do 
exactly the same thing as the notorious black wire in the Astron?

Vic 4X6GP 

> On 16 Apr 2018, at 23:50, Jim Brown  wrote:
> 
> Joe is right and George is WRONG.  V- is NOT GROUND, it is the return for DC 
> power.  Bonding V- to ground is a BAD idea -- that's why virtually all 
> pro-grade power supplies are built either without the bond or so that the 
> bond can easily be removed.
> 
> As to those who were confused by my advice -- I thought it was pretty plain.
> 
> Quite a few posts back, I posted a link to a detailed discussion of this on 
> my website. I published this around 2010-12. I urge those who are confused to 
> study it.
> 
> http://k9yc.com/PowerSupplyBondingAndAudioDistortion.pdf
> 
> My detailed advice on station grounding and bonding is the link below.  Much 
> of it has been incorporated in Ward Silver's recent ARRL book on the topic, 
> and is referenced in the book. You can buy the book from ARRL, while the pdf 
> on my website is free. :)  Joe and Don are right on in their understanding of 
> the NEC, the fundamentals of which I have been paid to teach to audio/video 
> professionals in workshops at conventions.
> 
> http://k9yc.com/GroundingAndAudio.pdf
> 
> 73, Jim K9YC
> 
>> On 4/16/2018 7:06 AM, Joe Subich, W4TV wrote:
>> 
>> On 2018-04-16 9:28 AM, George Danner wrote:
>> > Re-Connect it!
>> 
>> DON'T CONNECT THAT WIRE BETWEEN V- AND CHASSIS CASE!
>> 
>> Unless you have a substantial *EXTERNAL GROUND CONNECTION*
>> between your station ground and the electrical system ground
>> rod, that connection between V- and chassis will bridge the
>> power system "safety" ground and the station grounding and
>> put your delicate and expensive equipment between two "grounds"
>> that can separate by many hundreds of volts in a lightning
>> event (or equipment failure).
>> 
>> > We even used ring grounds around studio & transmitter building with
>> > ground rods every 10' all cad-welded.
>> 
>> That is proper grounding and bonds all entry points together *OUTSIDE*
>> the building to prevent grounds from separating.  It creates a common
>> "island" for everything inside the building.  However, for the majority
>> of amateur stations which fail to properly bond the shields of all of
>> the coaxial cables entering the shack to the electrical system ground
>> *at the meter*, there is no "island" ... more like an isthmus across
>> the equipment.
>> 
>> 73,
>> 
>>... Joe, W4TV
>> 
>> 
>>> On 2018-04-16 9:28 AM, George Danner wrote:
>>> Re-Connect it!
>>> 
 From a broadcaster (AM,FM & TV) was in South Florida (lightning capital of 
>>> North America).
>>> 
>>> The more massive the common (ground, bonding, whatever term you use) for 
>>> the connection between equipment and the power company ground connection 
>>> the better.
>>> We even used ring grounds around studio & transmitter building with ground 
>>> rods every 10' all cad-welded. This is probably over kill for a ham 
>>> station; but think as massive as you can.
>>> Towers at 500' or above had 2 ring grounds and lots of ground rods.
>>> 
>>> The common for equipment interconnection is for safety first and the 
>>> reduction of voltage drops on the common lines that can transfer from one 
>>> piece of equipment to another (us old timers use the term ground loop - not 
>>> PC any more).
>>> 
>>> 73 George AI4VZ
>>> 
>>> -Original Message- From: Charlie T
>>> 
>>> "This greatly increases the chances for damages to station equipment and 
>>> all other electronic equipment in the household in event of a lightning 
>>> event."
>>> 
>>> What is, disconnecting the wire or leaving it in place?
>>> Your comment can be taken both ways.
>>> 
>>> 73, Charlie k3ICH
>>> 
>>> 
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Re: [Elecraft] K3S display issue, one problem solved

[Vic Rosenthal]

Tap the MENU button and select the LCD adjustment. Maybe it is all the way at 
one extreme or another.

Vic 4X6GP 

> On 14 Apr 2018, at 14:58, Jim Spears  wrote:
> 
> OK, found the key to enabling the external 10 MHz source to the K3EXREF and
> K144XV.  This works FB now.  no need for advice or comment.
> 
> 
> 
> When I turn the radio on, most of the time the LCD screen is very bright
> with the normal display barely visible and faint.  I do not know if this is
> 10 times out of 10 or 4 out of 10 as I have not done an exhaustive
> experiment.  Advice and comment needed, hi.
> 
> 
> 
> I need to take another look at LCD ADJ and LCD BRT to see if something is
> amiss.
> 
> 
> 
> Jim
> 
> N1NK
> 
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Re: [Elecraft] New Sub RX

[Vic Rosenthal]

Actually, I sometimes find myself switching diversity on and off while trying 
to break a pileup when the dx station is particularly weak. The P3 + VGA is 
helpful in spotting when diversity is on and I can’t hear the pileup.

Vic 4X6GP 

> On 12 Mar 2018, at 22:23, Ralph Parker  wrote:
> 
> >But now I need three receivers. Two for diversity and one to scan the pileup.
> 
> K4
> 
> 
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Re: [Elecraft] PX3 & thumb drive...

[Vic Rosenthal]

I have the same problem with my P3.

Vic 4X6GP 

> On 24 Feb 2018, at 17:23, Stephen Shearer  wrote:
> 
> I have read, tried, and still can't use a "modern" thumb drive (USB)... with 
> my PX3 for data transfer.
> 
> I have an OLD thumb drive that works in my PX3 firmware 1.48...
> I have a Targus.com M-Sys DiskOnKey 128M formatted as FAT32 that works. (yes, 
> 128 mega...)
> I have a San Disk Ultra Fit FAT32 16G (and other SanDisk) that will not give 
> me an "M"...
> 
> Is SanDisk the problem?  Why?  Help, is there something I am not doing?
> 
> 73, steve WB3LGC
> 
> 
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Re: [Elecraft] K3S and Winkeyer

[Vic Rosenthal]

A lot of people will say no, the N1MM CW generation is fine. But it depends on 
a lot of things. In my case, the CW got poorer when there was a lot of internet 
activity on the computer. Computer sound generation and other stuff also 
affects it. Everything just got much smoother when I got a Winkeyer.

Vic 4X6GP 

> On 22 Feb 2018, at 3:52, Bill DeVore  wrote:
> 
> I’d like to start contesting and plan on using N1MM with my K3S. Is there any 
> advantage on adding a Winkeyer to the mix?
> 
> Thanks in advance,
> 
> Bill - W3PNM
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Re: [Elecraft] Selectivity

[Vic Rosenthal]

This is probably because you are using the rx equalizer and have boosted your 
preferred cw pitch. The narrowest filters (50 and 100 Hz) do not support the 
equalizer, so the boost disappears (this is slightly oversimplified, since 
there is an option for the type of DSP filter used for the narrow bandwidths 
that also affects this).

Anyway, the trick is not to boost any frequency ranges — just have the 
equalizer cut the ones you don’t want.

The rx equalizer doesn’t do much on CW with narrow bandwidths anyway, since the 
bandwidth determines the range of pitches that you hear.

Vic 4X6GP 

> On 30 Jan 2018, at 23:39, Roger D Johnson  wrote:
> 
> I noticed that during the contest, that if I selected 50 or 100 Hz 
> selectivity, the audio would drop way down. It didn't used to be this way. I 
> tried reloading
> an earlier version of the software but couldn't figure out how to do it.
> 
> Hope this comes through, finally!
> 
> 
> 73, Roger
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[Elecraft] P3 drift

[Vic Rosenthal]

My K3 seems quite stable (at least for CW purposes) although I don’t have a 
TCXO. But there is considerable drift in my P3 for the first 15 minutes or so 
after turn-on. This is noticeable when the span is narrow (5 kHz). I wonder if 
anyone has thought about the possibility of stabilizing it?

Vic 4X6GP 
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Re: [Elecraft] OT: CW, licensing, etc.

[Vic Rosenthal]

Two things about learning code:

1) It gets much harder after age 16, but
2) the development of Morse training software has made it MUCH easier than it 
was in the pre-computer age.

I just wish they could stop publishing those stupid charts that show the 
characters as dots and dashes. IMHO memorizing the code that way does a lot of 
damage.

Vic 4X6GP 
(CWops CWA advisor)

> On 15 Nov 2017, at 6:36, Walter Underwood  wrote:
> 
> Thank you for all the work you put into that.
> 
> My story is a lot like some others, but I got my Novice license during the 
> “two years and out” era (fall 1970). I didn’t make 13 wpm and I couldn’t 
> renew the license, so I was out of the hobby until 2009. Meanwhile, I got an 
> electrical engineering degree in signals and systems, with classes from some 
> of the pioneers in DSP. I worked in that field for a few years, then moved to 
> networking.
> 
> Without code, I came back to amateur radio, first with General and then with 
> Amateur Extra. I’m part of our local em-comm group and head up the Radio 
> Scouting activities for the Boy Scouts in our area. When I can get on a 
> summit, I do SOTA. A couple of times, I’ve made a stab at re-learning Morse, 
> but it is really, really hard. For me, it is like doing taxes while drunk. 
> Not pleasant. And don’t talk to me about “music and Morse”, because I’ve sung 
> in church choirs for over twenty years. I’ll try again.
> 
> wunder
> K6WRU
> Walter Underwood
> CM87wj
> http://observer.wunderwood.org/ (my blog)
> 
>> On Nov 14, 2017, at 3:52 PM, Ken G Kopp  wrote:
>> 
>> After reading all the comments on the subject, I'd like to
>> offer the following ...
>> 
>> I was one of the six people responsible for the "No Code
>> License".  I consider it an honor to have been chosen as
>> a member of the study committee by the ARRL.  FWIW,
>> each member of the committee was a dedicated CW
>> operator.
>> 
>> It had nothing to do with "incentive licensing".  We were told
>> by the both the FCC and the ARRL that some form of a code
>> free license -was- coming and they wanted to give the amateur
>> radio community a "say" in the matter.
>> 
>> Our committee was widely publicized in the hobby's media
>> and we all received -lots- of correspondence, both pro and
>> con. I still have two cartons of letters in my attic.  FWIW, the
>> letters are about 50/50 in favor and against.
>> 
>> What eventually became the "no code license" differs a bit
>> from what was we proposed ... think 160M and 6M for example.
>> It was thought that because of TVI that 6M would not be a
>> good place to put inexperienced new hams and the lack of
>> activity and LORAN A on 160M was a detriment.
>> 
>> The jury will always be out on whether "no code" has been
>> good for the hobby or not, but it was felt that the resulting
>> increase in the number of licenses may have "saved" the
>> hobby from the spectrum wolves on the prowl at the time.
>> 
>> Trivia:  We determined that if a person said they couldn't
>> learn the code there was no way to disprove that.
>> 
>> One can -always- find a CW QSO to enjoy.  I've been essentially
>> CW only since my Novice license in 1951 (WN5TKI) ... one of the
>> first issued ... and the FCC only came to Oklahoma City once a
>> year in those days.  My SK Elmer (W5ADC) drove this 13 year
>> old kid the 90 miles to take the exam.
>> 
>> 66 years have passed ... such changes I've seen.
>> 
>> 73!
>> 
>> Ken Kopp - K0PP
>> (Not a vanity call ... a story unto itself.)
>> 
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Re: [Elecraft] K3 after turning on doesn't receive or transmit

[Vic Rosenthal]

I suspect that “bad things” can happen if the power drops DURING the process of 
saving. Then you might get partial or invalid information stored. This could be 
why most of the time it is harmless.

Vic 4X6GP 

> On 14 Oct 2017, at 10:12, Clay Autery  wrote:
> 
> Just like any other computer with volatile memory  IF you don't tell the 
> computer you are shutting down, it doesn't know and therefore doesn't have 
> time to save the information to NON-volatile memory.
> 
> __
> Clay Autery, KY5G
> MONTAC Enterprises
> (318) 518-1389
> 
>> On 10/13/2017 3:00 PM, Dave Cole (NK7Z) wrote:
>> Respectfully, is that really true?  The K3 needs to be shutdown via the 
>> Power switch due to some sort of shutdown procedure, (or internal timings 
>> issue), within the radio?
>> 
>> 73s and thanks,
>> Dave
>> NK7Z
>> http://www.nk7z.net
>> 
>>> On 10/13/2017 11:52 AM, Bob McGraw K4TAX wrote:
>>> I would also comment with Knut, AB2TC, that one must always turn the radio 
>>> on and off with the power switch.  This allows the internal workings to 
>>> store the data. If you use a "master station switch" thus just dump the 
>>> power supply then the radio may not store the data as required.   I recall 
>>> the term "power down imminent" or PDI.
>>> 
>>> Years ago we had "the big switch" which was used to shut the station down.  
>>> Today with all of the computerized gadgets, power down in sequence is more 
>>> and more of a must do.
>>> 
>>> In another brand of radio to which I am familiar, there is a CPU timing 
>>> circuit that assures the CPU is up and running before loading the operating 
>>> code.   If this circuit is running too fast, it may cause a partial load 
>>> and related error.  This circuit is basically a simple RC network, and with 
>>> age the C value decreases thus making the timing circuit run too fast. i.e. 
>>>  not enough delay.
>>> 
>>> 73
>>> 
>>> Bob, K4TAX
>> 
> 
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Re: [Elecraft] Question for Wayne about your OCF Dipole

[Vic Rosenthal]

With any OCF or similar antenna there will be some bands on which the SWR on 
the coax is very high. And if you are trying to operate it at frequencies below 
its halfwave resonance, it can be astronomical.
I'm running a 10m long rotatable dipole, center fed, on all bands from 40 
through 6m. There is no way this could work with any kind of coax feed; the SWR 
on 40m is around 100:1.
The feedline is 34 feet (about 10m long). I discovered that the losses in a 
balun at the rig end are too great -- I nearly destroyed a 5kw rated DXE balun 
trying to do this (power was 1.2 kW). You need either a balanced tuner, or some 
balanced arrangement to cancel the reactance before the balun. I chose the 
latter.
I recently upgraded my balanced feedline to no. 12 spaced 10 cm. I put a twist 
in it about every 1m to improve balance. Calculated loss on 40m (by far the 
worst band) is less than 2 dB.

Vic 4X6GP 

> On 19 Sep 2017, at 6:57, Jim Brown  wrote:
> 
>> On 9/18/2017 8:17 PM, Charlie T wrote:
>> I wonder about the power handling capability of some of that cheap RG-6, or 
>> whatever they use for TV & satellite.
> 
> CATV coax is optimized for physical properties and for RF performance at UHF 
> (CATV does include "backhaul" information from the customer for billing, 
> etc., and that does run at HF).
> 
> Nearly all CATV coax has a copper-clad steel center and a shield with braid 
> and one or more foils. The shield is usually 100% Al. Loss in coax below UHF 
> is all due to I squared R losses. The steel center causes increased loss at 
> MF and low HF, while skin effect takes the steel out of the picture at VHF 
> and above. And because it's Al, shield resistance is higher than for a good 
> copper braid.
> 
> Further, an important property of a cable shield is its transfer impedance, 
> which is the ratio of differential voltage induced by current on the outside 
> of the shield. In other words, its a parameter defining the effectiveness of 
> a shield against common mode current. The lower the transfer impedance, the 
> better the shielding, and the lower limit on transfer impedance is the 
> resistance of the shield at the frequency of interest. That's an important 
> reason for using common mode chokes on coax used for RX antennas!
> 
> W8JI says that "RG6 cables can handle TX power," without qualifying which RG6 
> cables he's talking about (there are hundreds of them). I use CATV RG6 
> extensively for RX antennas, and buy flooded Commscope on 1,000 ft spools for 
> about $95.
> 
> While thinking about OCF dipoles, remember that because they are inherently 
> unbalanced, they tend to pick up lots of noise on the feedline, and because 
> they're nearly always fed with 2-wire line and usually a poor match on most 
> bands, they are impractical to choke effectively. [To understand why, study 
> my tutorial k9yc.com/RFI-Ham.pdf] No problem if you're in a quiet location in 
> the middle of nowhere, but not a great choice if, like most of us, you're 
> surrounded by neighbors, each with dozens of RF noise sources.
> 
> 73, Jim K9YC
> 
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Re: [Elecraft] Receiver Similaritie"

[Vic Rosenthal]

I racked my brain on this (I had an HRO) and the only thing I can think of is 
that they both have a sort of digital display.

Vic 4X6GP 

> On 3 Sep 2017, at 23:12, Fred Jensen  wrote:
> 
> Ummm ... my K3 has a tuning "precision" of 1 Hz, repeatable.  It has whatever 
> "accuracy" I set when I calibrate it against WWV.
> 
> Unfortunately I never had any of the HRO series and only used one a couple of 
> time on FD 150 years ago, so I don't know the answer to the question.
> *
> 73,
> 
> Fred ["Skip"] K6DGW
> Sparks NV DM09dn
> Washoe County*
> 
>> 
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Re: [Elecraft] Bluetooth audio adapter for K3

[Vic Rosenthal]

Is there a noticeable time delay when using Bluetooth? If so, it might be a 
problem for monitoring CW sending (or voice, for that matter).

Vic 4X6GP 

> On 2 Sep 2017, at 2:56, Dave Sublette  wrote:
> 
> This idea of putting headphones and mic on Bluetooth has interested me for 
> some time.  Looking at the page on amazon, the 366-T device looks to be a 
> transmitter only.  That would be fine.  You could hook it to the speaker or 
> headphone output of the radio and buy a pair of Bluetooth headphones and 
> listen just fine.  In order to use your mic (as with an headset/mic 
> arrangement), you would need a transmitter on your headset and another 
> receiver on the radio, plugged into the mic jack.  To use it, you would need 
> to put the radio on VOX.
> 
> This brings visions of after market boxes strung all over the desk and one 
> hung on your headset.  I don’t know what the RF from the headset Tx would do 
> to you. Do these things transmit continuously?  I would be more comfortable 
> with the idea if they only transmitted when you were talking on the radio.
> 
> I am not up on all the latest gadgetry.  Maybe someone can educate me.
> 
> 73,
> 
> Dave, K4TO
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Re: [Elecraft] RX antenna protection

[Vic Rosenthal]

I disagree. A good preamp like the DXE preamps can handle large signals and 
still be linear. That means they can output a lot of power. Do not assume you 
are safe if there is a preamp unless it is a lousy one!

Vic 4X6GP 

> On 15 Aug 2017, at 18:07, Ignacy  wrote:
> 
> If a receive antenna has a preamp, there no need to do any antenna guard
> since the preamp cannot destroy K3. 
> 
> I used K9AY, K7TJR 3 el array, and a Wellbrook loop close to transmit
> antennas. None was turned off during transmit.  Both have preamps and
> nothing was damaged despite running a  KW. Of all 3, K7TJR was the best by
> far. 
> 
> BTW, the RX ANT input in K3 is protected by a RF activated relay.  
> 
> Ignacy, NO9E
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Re: [Elecraft] RX antenna protection

[Vic Rosenthal]

I'm using a Pixel Loop. Advantages are that it is small, can be rotated to null 
a noise source, and works on all HF bands. It is vertically polarized, so if 
you have a horizontal antenna you can get a useful diversity effect without too 
much physical separation. It has a built in relay that disconnects it to 
protect your receiver while transmitting. I use diversity almost all the time, 
and it definitely improves copy of CW signals.

Vic 4X6GP 

> On 15 Aug 2017, at 17:01, Mark E. Musick  wrote:
> 
> Paul,
> I use several different receive antennas and use all the ones I am going to
> suggest.
> For your small lot, you didn't say how small, I would look at the Pixel
> loop, K9AY and RBOG.
> I have used these and they work. You can get all three from DX Engineering.
> From ARRAY Solutions there is the Shared Apex Loop. It will take up about
> the same space as a K9AY. I have not used one of these so can't say
> personally how well it works, but people I know that have used them speak
> highly of this antenna.
> You have gotten two good suggestions for front end protection. I use the DX
> Engineering receiver guard model RG-5000. You don't need the RG-5000HD
> unless you're in a contest environment. 
> Keep us posted on your progress.
> 
> 73,
> Mark, WB9CIF
> 
> -Original Message-
> From: elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net
> [mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of Chuck Milam, N9KY
> Sent: Tuesday, August 15, 2017 1:16 PM
> To: Elecraft Mail List 
> Subject: Re: [Elecraft] RX antenna protection
> 
> Also, check out the DX Engineering Receiver Guard Electronic RF Limiters:
> 
> 
> https://www.dxengineering.com/search/part-type/hf-receive-antenna-system-dev
> ices/product-line/dx-engineering-receiver-guard-electronic-rf-limiters?autov
> iew=SKU=Default=Ascending
> 
> ---
> Chuck Milam, N9KY
> n...@arrl.net
> 
>> On Mon, Aug 14, 2017 at 11:07 PM, Drew AF2Z  wrote:
>> 
>> Same situation here: small space and would like to try some low noise 
>> receive antennas. I recently bought an Array Solutions AS-RXFEP rf 
>> limiter to use on the RX Ant port of my K3. Haven't tried it yet but 
>> looks like it will do the job.
>> 
>> 
>> 73,
>> Drew
>> AF2Z
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> 
>>> On 08/14/17 21:48, W1PEF wrote:
>>> 
>>> I am considering a Rx antenna but my property is small and concerned 
>>> about strong signals over powering the receiver. Does the K3S have 
>>> built-in protection?
>>> Does anyone use a loop receive antenna or BOG antenna ... would like 
>>> some recommendations from actual users of receive antennas.
>>> Have the complete K-Line and would like to improve my ability to hear.
>>> Thanks for any advice...
>>> Paul
>>> W1PEF
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Re: [Elecraft] Is it my KX3/antenna or is it lousy band condx?

[Vic Rosenthal]

It's not a "con." It is a trade off that provides wide frequency coverage with 
a simple, sturdy antenna in return for a few dB of loss. Quite reasonable if 
you are the National Guard.

Vic 4X6GP 

> On 13 Aug 2017, at 20:28, Ken G Kopp  wrote:
> 
> The antenna Jim's is referring to (below) is ... I believe ... better known
> as
> a "T2FD".  In a case of conning the unknowing B & W ... and maybe even
> themselves ... sold hundreds of them to the Army National Guard.  You see
> them hanging above every armory here in MT.
> 
> 
>> Yes, but as noted above, not in a good way. :)   There's a folded dipole
>>> antenna made with a big resistor in the middle of it, the effect of which
>>> is to "broadband" it by "swamping" the resonance, AND to burn half of the
>>> transmitter power. In other words, the transmitter puts power into the
>>> antenna, but half of it is wasted in that resistor.
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Re: [Elecraft] KX3 AM breakthrough ()

[Vic Rosenthal]

I live in line of sight of a 50 kW AM BC station and I had interesting problems 
with my K3 when I was using a vertical antenna. I made a 3 MHz highpass filter 
which fixed it. Note also that the common T network style antenna tuner also is 
a highpass filter, so that could be a simple solution. Switching to a 
horizontally polarized antenna will also help if practical.

Vic 4X6GP 

> On 11 Aug 2017, at 21:21, Philip Anderson  wrote:
> 
> Hi everyone,
> 
> I have been using a KX2 as my main rig for most of this year, it works very 
> well although the receiver sometimes struggles a bit from my favorite 
> portable location right next to the sea, where there's often a large amount 
> of very strong signals.
> 
> Because of this, recent review comparisons of the KX2 with the KX3 tempted me 
> to buy a KX3 mostly for the extra receive performance. Unfortunately, when I 
> tried the KX3 from my favorite portable location next to the sea yesterday, I 
> had a problem with breakthrough of an AM broadcast station on 20m, the only 
> way I could completely eliminate the problem was by turning on RX SHIFT, 
> which unfortunately disables the roofing filter (a big reason for buying the 
> KX3) and dual watch.
> 
> I understand from comments I have read that this issue is an inherent 
> weakness of the direct conversion architecture, however - my KX2 never 
> suffers from this problem.
> 
> So before surrendering to the possibility that I've spent $$$ on a larger KX2 
> with disabled dual watch ;) I thought I'd explore alternatives to using the 
> RX SHIFT feature.
> 
> Since I've never had this problem with my KX2, and since that radio does not 
> have the RX SHIFT feature, I'm assuming that for some hardware reason, the 
> problem of AM broadcast breakthrough is not expected on the KX2.
> 
> Does anyone know what the difference between the two is? I suspect that the 
> KX2 has a more severe high pass filter, in which case a 3Mhz high pass filter 
> in the KX3 aerial lead might help sort out everything above top band.
> 
> Has anyone tried that?
> 
> Has anyone found any other solutions?
> 
> Phil G4PWO
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Re: [Elecraft] K3S Package Discounts

[Vic Rosenthal]

The email reflector is the first place to go if you have a problem. So of 
course reading it gives you the impression that there are a lot of problems. 
But I suspect it would be the same with a similar reflector dedicated to ANY 
manufacturer's equipment.
The look... well, that is up to you!

Vic 4X6GP 

> On 29 Jul 2017, at 16:59, Thom  wrote:
> 
> All I can say to Elecraft is if I had the money to buy a K3 with all the 
> options, given all the issues people have with them on this list, I probably 
> would not even consider buying one.
> 
> I was not really all that impressed with the look of it when I saw it at 
> Dayton this year.  It reminded me of the Kenwood gear, I currently own.
> 
> 73
> 
> Thom KI8W
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Re: [Elecraft] Interesting meter

[Vic Rosenthal]

A  100-watt output transmitter (with a 4-400 final!) and antenna tuner, in a 
6-foot rack. Equivalent to the tx section of my K3. Talk about "battleship 
construction!"
Lots of knobs for those who complain that the K3 has too few.

Vic 4X6GP 

> On 15 Jul 2017, at 22:37, Drew AF2Z  wrote:
> 
> Looks like an SWR Balance Meter for an AN/SRT-14 MF/HF transmitter or 
> associated coupler/tuner:
> 
> http://www.virhistory.com/navy/xmtrs/srt14-99.jpg
> 
> 
> 73,
> Drew
> AF2Z
> 
> 
> 
>> On 07/13/17 23:22, Howard Hoyt wrote:
>> Hi all,
>> I figured maybe one of you was, um, experienced enough to recognize this 
>> meter and let me know what piece of equipment it came from.  I found it in a 
>> cache of old broadcast equipment, so it is possible it was part of an old 
>> carrier current transmitter or some other such thing.  This is the link to 
>> the picture:
>> https://proaudioeng.com/swr-meter/
>> Cheers & 73,
>> Howie - WA4PSC
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Re: [Elecraft] OT: 2017 Chevy Silverado 1500 power outlets

[Vic Rosenthal]

The most likely situation is that you disconnect it for some reason (replacing 
the starter when the cable goes to one of the bolts that hold it, etc.) and 
then forget to hook it up. Or, in an older vehicle, corrosion where the wire 
meets the lug.

Vic 4X6GP 

> On 27 Jun 2017, at 22:42, Charlie T, K3ICH <pin...@erols.com> wrote:
> 
> I have to ask, has ANYONE ever heard of a circumstance where the negative
> return lead from the battery to the engine block has ever failed, short of a
> battlefield situation?
> Still, probably a good idea to fuse the negative to radio wire anyway.
> 
> Charlie k3ICH
> 
> 
> 
> -Original Message-
> From: elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net
> [mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of Vic Rosenthal
> Sent: Tuesday, June 27, 2017 11:52 AM
> To: Clay Autery <k...@montac.com>
> Cc: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
> Subject: Re: [Elecraft] OT: 2017 Chevy Silverado 1500 power outlets
> 
> I don't think math or difficult physics is needed. Suppose you connect the
> radio directly to battery, and then suppose the battery to ground cable
> becomes partially or completely disconnected. Finally, suppose you then try
> to start the engine. When the starter solenoid closes, some of the high
> current from the battery negative terminal flows through the negative lead
> to the radio, and then to ground through the radio's mounting bracket, the
> coax to the antenna, etc. The no. 10 ground wire might have to carry several
> hundred amps! Lots of things can be damaged.
> This is why negative leads should be fused, at least.
> 
> Vic 4X6GP 
> 
>> On 27 Jun 2017, at 18:21, Clay Autery <k...@montac.com> wrote:
>> 
>> Horse puckey!  I DEFY you to prove the physics OR math of that 
>> ridiculous statement.
>> 
>> __
>> Clay Autery, KY5G
>> 
>>> On 6/27/2017 9:55 AM, donov...@starpower.net wrote:
>>> WARNING! 
>>> 
>>> 
>>> For extremely important safety and fire prevention reasons reasons, 
>>> no accessory should ever be connected directly to the negative 
>>> terminal of an automotive battery . Just like when charging an 
>>> automotive battery, the negative lead of a cable running directly to 
>>> the battery should always connect to the engine block and never 
>>> directly to the battery.
>>> 
>>> 
>>> The positive lead must be fused where it connects to the battery. 
>>> 
>>> 
>>> There's an excellent discussion here: 
>>> 
>>> https://www.w8ji.com/negative_lead_to_battery.htm
>>> 
>>> 
>>> 73
>>> Frank
>>> W3LPL
>>> 
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Re: [Elecraft] OT: 2017 Chevy Silverado 1500 power outlets

[Vic Rosenthal]

I don't think math or difficult physics is needed. Suppose you connect the 
radio directly to battery, and then suppose the battery to ground cable becomes 
partially or completely disconnected. Finally, suppose you then try to start 
the engine. When the starter solenoid closes, some of the high current from the 
battery negative terminal flows through the negative lead to the radio, and 
then to ground through the radio's mounting bracket, the coax to the antenna, 
etc. The no. 10 ground wire might have to carry several hundred amps! Lots of 
things can be damaged.
This is why negative leads should be fused, at least.

Vic 4X6GP 

> On 27 Jun 2017, at 18:21, Clay Autery  wrote:
> 
> Horse puckey!  I DEFY you to prove the physics OR math of that
> ridiculous statement.
> 
> __
> Clay Autery, KY5G
> 
>> On 6/27/2017 9:55 AM, donov...@starpower.net wrote:
>> WARNING! 
>> 
>> 
>> For extremely important safety and fire prevention reasons reasons, 
>> no accessory should ever be connected directly to the negative 
>> terminal of an automotive battery . Just like when charging an 
>> automotive battery, the negative lead of a cable running directly 
>> to the battery should always connect to the engine block and never 
>> directly to the battery. 
>> 
>> 
>> The positive lead must be fused where it connects to the battery. 
>> 
>> 
>> There's an excellent discussion here: 
>> 
>> https://www.w8ji.com/negative_lead_to_battery.htm 
>> 
>> 
>> 73 
>> Frank 
>> W3LPL 
>> 
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Re: [Elecraft] Roofing Filters

[Vic Rosenthal]

I recall Wayne saying that Elecraft tested filters received from INRAD for some 
specific performance characteristics. I don't remember the details.

Vic 4X6GP 

> On 22 Jun 2017, at 17:14, Clay Autery  wrote:
> 
> INRAD makes Elecraft's filters as I understand it...
> 
> I'll be getting mine from Elecraft directly.
> 
> __
> Clay Autery, KY5G
> 
>> On 6/22/2017 8:10 AM, Mike Harris wrote:
>> Wandering the web I notice that INRAD are offering K3 Roofers somewhat
>> less than Elecraft prices.
>> 
>> Regards,
>> 
>> Mike VP8NO
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Re: [Elecraft] Flash mob experiment, right now, 28.050 +/- 5?

[Vic Rosenthal]

I hear lots of E skip lately. But there aren't enough ion clouds in the right 
places for me to reach you guys!
But I did work an LZ (about 860 miles away) lower in the band with good signals.

Vic 4X6GP 

> On 12 Jun 2017, at 18:55, EUGENE GABRY  wrote:
> 
> 
>> On June 12, 2017 at 10:23 AM Wayne Burdick  wrote:
>> 
>> 
>> In these days of low solar activity we have to make our own openings
>> 
>> Wayne
>> N6KR
> 
> I think the key lesson we have learned here is, call CQ much, much more often 
> then just watching spots and listening. If we all just watched spots and 
> listened, the static would be deafening!
> 
> Wished I could have been home and on the air for this "experiment"!
> 
> 73 Gene, N9TF
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Re: [Elecraft] [K2] No signal at TP1 during Alignment and Test Part 2

[Vic Rosenthal]

It looks like classic PTTL (poorly tinned toroid leads) on T5.

Vic 4X6GP 

> On 9 Jun 2017, at 5:20, Robert Forster  wrote:
> 
> Hi Don and Group,
> 
> I got a bit of time to troubleshoot this evening.
> 
> I do have a good signal at TP3 so I am ignoring the PLL and U4.
> 
> I did the DC measurements at Q18 and found some issues.
> 
> the gate shows as a negative polarity but at -.001 volts
> Source is .08
> Drain is at 6.8
> 
> This should lead me to suspect T5 correct?
> the soldering on the underside of the board for T5 looks ok (no ring for
> these points but the topside of the board looks rough!  I used the USB
> microscope and took some photos.
> Here: https://flic.kr/s/aHsm2aNdeG
> 
> I'm thinking that after the VHF contest I should remove T5 and check the
> windings and re strip the ends and retin.  Does this sound like an
> apropriate course of action?
> 
> Oh and just for the hell of it I bypassed C60 with no effect either.
> 
> Thanks again for all your help!
> 
> 73,
> Robert
> AD0TA
> 
>> On Wed, Jun 7, 2017 at 6:33 AM, Don Wilhelm  wrote:
>> 
>> Robert,
>> 
>> Do you have a good signal at TP3?  If so, ignore the PLL Reference
>> oscillator and U4 for now.
>> 
>> You need to get the VFO operating before doing anything else.
>> Do the DC measurements a Q18.  If you do not have a negative voltage at
>> the gate, it is not oscillating.
>> 
>> T5 is the most likely problem with the VFO.  Make certain it is wound
>> correctly and the leads are well stripped and tinned.  If you see a ring
>> around the lead (on the solder side), that lead was not adequately stripped
>> and tinned.  Both windings must be wound in the same direction.
>> 
>> If all the above is correct, put a temporary jumper across C60 to disable
>> the VFO ALC circuit.  If it oscillates with the jumper in place, but not
>> without it, replace Q17.  If that still does not correct it, try replacing
>> Q16.  Be certain D11 is oriented correctly.
>> 
>> Ignore the voltages on U4 pins 5, 6, and 7 - those are digital signals,
>> and the manual lists the voltage for the active signal, not what you would
>> typically measure with a DMM.  If you look at them with a 'scope you can
>> see pulses on those lines, and that should be sufficient for proper
>> operation.
>> 
>> RFC 15 also needs to be ignored until after you get the VFO operating.
>> Once you get a VFO signal at TP1, then you can investigate the operation of
>> U4.
>> 
>> 73,
>> Don W3FPR
>> 
>> 
>>> On 6/6/2017 9:47 PM, Robert Forster wrote:
>>> 
>>> Hello to the group!
>>> 
>>> I'm afraid I need to lean on your collective K2 troubleshooting expertise.
>>> After a long break I have finally made it to the Alignment and Test Part 2
>>> of my build.  Everything was going OK until I got to the VCO Test.  I have
>>> no signal at TP1.  I have tested this with the built in counter as well as
>>> an external counter.  I have gone through some of the troubleshooting I
>>> could find online:
>>> 
>>> The orientation of D13 and D8 look good
>>> 
>>> I have checked the soldering at relays K13, K14 and K15 and the value of
>>> C72.
>>> 
>>> I have checked the varactors at D21 through D26 and they are oriented
>>> properly I am nearly certain they are all the correct type
>>> 
>>> I tested RFC15 in the circuit and could not get any continuity through it.
>>> When I pulled it out of the circuit it tested fine so I put it back in.
>>> I'm sure this is something basic I just dont understand.
>>> 
>>> I know there is some more testing I can do with Q17 and Q18 (I did check
>>> that they are the right type and orientation I also check all the
>>> component
>>> values around Q18) Lets set that aside for just a second though...
>>> 
>>> Here is where I think it gets a little weird.  Looking at the schematic I
>>> followed it back to U4.  When I compared the voltage table to what i was
>>> actually seeing on U4 I think I may have found my problem.  According to
>>> the table pin 7 should have 0 Volts but i'm showing 4.8!  It also shows
>>> that pin 13 should have 4 volts but I'm showing 0.  All other pins are
>>> normal and match the chart.
>>> 
>>> Following Pin 7 of U4 back to Pin 1 of U5 I see the same 4.8 volts.
>>> This is supposed to be a clock line so I'm confused where this sort of
>>> voltage would be comming from.
>>> 
>>> I'm still new to alot of this and this is by far the most complex kit I've
>>> taken on so any and all help will be appreciated!
>>> 
>>> Thanks and 73,
>>> Robert
>>> AD0TA
>>> 
>>> 
>>> 
>>> 
> 
> 
> -- 
> ===
> I could tell you a UDP joke, but you might not get it.
> ===
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Re: [Elecraft] P3 Will it work on other Radios

[Vic Rosenthal]

This is true, if the IF is in range. But there are  some features that require 
communication between the radio and the P3. I think it may only work in 
tracking mode (not fixed mode). In any event, I would check this out in detail 
before buying one with the intention of using it with a radio other than the K3 
or K3S.

Vic 4X6GP 

> On 27 May 2017, at 6:55, Nr4c  wrote:
> 
> If you have access to IF OUT. 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone
> ...nr4c. bill
> 
> 
>> On May 26, 2017, at 4:03 PM, Scott Russell  wrote:
>> 
>> Will the P3 work on other manufacturer radios?
>> 
>> Thanks, Scott N1SER
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Re: [Elecraft] Beam antenna question

[Vic Rosenthal]

The TH11DXX that G3TXQ compares to the Hexbeam has at least 3 elements on each 
band and is a modern design, no traps. If someone found that the C3 (2 el on 
each band) outperformed it, I would be very suspicious that something was wrong 
with the sample tested.
I did look at the wrong picture and you are correct that the XR5 is 9 elements.

Vic 4X6GP 

> On 20 May 2017, at 23:28, Joe Subich, W4TV <li...@subich.com> wrote:
> 
> 
> > Why do you think it will "significantly outperform the hex beams?"
> 
> Based on the performance data (K7LXC/N0AX) for the original Force 12
> C3 and TH11 with comparisons of the broadband Hexbeam and the TH11.
> The K7LXC/N0AX field data shows the C3 outperforming the TH11 while
> G3TXQ's web page <http://www.karinya.net/g3txq/hexbeam/broadband/>
> shows the TH11 with approximately 3 dB advantage over the broadband
> hexbeam.
> 
>> I wouldn't say an 11 element yagi with capacity hats on the elements
> > has an especially low visual profile!
> 
> Neither the XR5 nor the Navassa 5 has 11 elements *or* capacity hats.
> The XR5 is a 9-element antenna and the Navassa 5 has 10 elements as
> documented in the two links I provided.
> 
> 73,
> 
>   ... Joe, W4TV
> 
> 
>> On 5/20/2017 3:34 PM, Vic Rosenthal wrote:
>> Why do you think it will "significantly outperform the hex beams?"
>> The point about uv is well taken re fiberglass, but I don't know what the 
>> cords on all the hexbeam versions are made of. There are uv resistant 
>> materials available.
>> I wouldn't say an 11 element yagi with capacity hats on the elements has an 
>> especially low visual profile!
>> 
>> Vic 4X6GP
>> 
>>> On 20 May 2017, at 19:36, Joe Subich, W4TV <li...@subich.com> wrote:
>>> 
>>> On 5/20/2017 11:32 AM, Terry Brown wrote:
>>>> These beams are not cheap,  I don't want to be taking the beam down
>>>> and replacing main structural components every 5 yrs.
>>>> 
>>>> Can anyone with a hex beam comment on this?
>>> 
>>> Your concerns are well placed with antennas made of fiberglass and
>>> dacron/kevlar cords.
>>> 
>>> Instead of a hexbeam, I would recommend looking at the Innovantennas
>>> XR5T: 
>>> <http://innovantennas.com/antennas-a-accesories/on-line-shop/view/productdetails/virtuemart_product_id/435/virtuemart_category_id/55.html>,
>>> or the JK Antennas Navassa 5:
>>> <https://jkantennas.com/jk-navassa-5.html>
>>> 
>>> Both have boom lengths of 12 feet or less, cover 20 - 10 meters and
>>> have optional 6 meter add-ons.  Either should significantly out
>>> perform the hex beams and - since they are aluminum antennas that do
>>> not use UV sensitive fiberglass, kevlar and dacron components - should
>>> significantly outlast the hexbeam with significantly less maintenance.
>>> 
>>> 73,
>>> 
>>>  ... Joe, W4TV
>>>> 
>> 
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Re: [Elecraft] Beam antenna question

[Vic Rosenthal]

Why do you think it will "significantly outperform the hex beams?" 
The point about uv is well taken re fiberglass, but I don't know what the cords 
on all the hexbeam versions are made of. There are uv resistant materials 
available.
I wouldn't say an 11 element yagi with capacity hats on the elements has an 
especially low visual profile!

Vic 4X6GP 

> On 20 May 2017, at 19:36, Joe Subich, W4TV  wrote:
> 
> On 5/20/2017 11:32 AM, Terry Brown wrote:
> > These beams are not cheap,  I don't want to be taking the beam down
> > and replacing main structural components every 5 yrs.
> >
> > Can anyone with a hex beam comment on this?
> 
> Your concerns are well placed with antennas made of fiberglass and
> dacron/kevlar cords.
> 
> Instead of a hexbeam, I would recommend looking at the Innovantennas
> XR5T: 
> ,
>  
> or the JK Antennas Navassa 5:
> 
> 
> Both have boom lengths of 12 feet or less, cover 20 - 10 meters and
> have optional 6 meter add-ons.  Either should significantly out
> perform the hex beams and - since they are aluminum antennas that do
> not use UV sensitive fiberglass, kevlar and dacron components - should
> significantly outlast the hexbeam with significantly less maintenance.
> 
> 73,
> 
>   ... Joe, W4TV
>> 
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Re: [Elecraft] KPA runaway issue

[Vic Rosenthal]

Just a guess, but if it happens in SSB but not CW, look for RF feedback into 
audio circuitry.

Vic 4X6GP 

> On 6 May 2017, at 19:49, W1GO (Joe)  wrote:
> 
> 
> Elecraft faithful,
> 
> Any guidance with trouble shooting a KPA500 / K3 issue would be helpful.
> 
> Problem: KPA500, primarily in SSB, “redlines” (600W+ LED) after a few seconds 
> of transmission / speech.  This seems to be independent of band.  With the 
> KPA in standby, the K3 output power holds rock steady as indicated in the KPA.
> 
> Conditions:
> -  Only about 20W of drive in SSB can result in the “redlining”  … To 
> eliminate the redlining, I have to turn drive down to about 18W. … about 20W 
> in CW provides about 500W fairly solid.
> -  The K3 is powered by a 70A supply that does not sag much upon K3 keydown 
> (14V to ~13.7V indicated on K3)
> -  KPA is powered off 240 … I tried two different KPA transformer taps as I 
> noticed with yellow tap the supply voltage right about 60V and occasionally a 
> little below on key down.  Supply voltage stays well above 60V with red tap 
> but same “redlining” of the KPA.
> -  Have tried various mic gain compression settings using dynamic mikes.  
> Without amp in-line I do fine with gain 30, compression 20 (10db).  I’ve gone 
> as low as gain 15 / compression 15 (~5db) with no impact.
> - I’ve tried various TXG VCE rating from -1.5 to 1.5 … no impact.
> -  ALC on … ext ALC off …. varied these to see if there would be an impact.  
> None.
> -  SWR (to different antennas) is <1.7 w/o KAT500 and <1.3 w/ KAT500
> 
> 
> What I’ve tried / done:
> -  Gain / compression changes as above
> -  Checked K3 supply voltage and no significant voltage drop on key down
> -  Changed power supply to a 35A powering K3 with no change 
> -  Varied KPA transformer taps to ensure supply above 60V
> -  Changed coax between K3 and KPA and KPA and KAT500
> -  Tried with two different antennas / coax runs and had same result
> -  Varied TXG VCE from -1.5 to 1.5
> -  Performed gain calibration on K3
> 
> 
> 
> I’ve had the KPA for about 9 months but primarily operated CW so not sure if 
> this is a recent occurrence.  Any other suggestions would be appreciated.
> 
> Many thanks, all, and have a wonderful weekend.
> 
> 
> 
> Kindest regards,
> 
> Joe
> W1GO
> 
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Re: [Elecraft] OT: Package shippers

[Vic Rosenthal]

The thing to keep in mind about international shipments is that UPS and FEDEX 
take the package all the way to its destination, including customs clearance, 
while USPS transfers it to the postal service of the destination country.
In my case, this means at least a month of extra time plus a degree of 
insecurity. UPS is much more costly, but if I were ordering something expensive 
or important, that is what I would request.

Vic 4X6GP 

> On 26 Apr 2017, at 20:56, Ken G Kopp  wrote:
> 
> I suspect for each of us our view of shippers will vary widel.
> 
> While certainly not a "large" shipper, Rose (Elecraft Covers)
> ships a number of packages a week, with many going to
> foreign destinations.
> 
> She -always- ships via the USPS and mostly via Priority Mail.
> In almost ten years she's had one package go astray, and
> that was due to me typing a wrong ZIP code.  A Priority Mail
> package will reach any US destination in no more then three
> days.
> 
> FedEx is absolutely terrible!  One fat envelope of legal papers
> from our bank was left on the driveway, laying in two inches
> of water.  Another was tossed over a fence into the yard.  Yet
> another was dropped near the BACK door of the house.  Didn't
> find it until a trace was instituted for the "missing" delivery.
> 
> When we order fabric, webbing, Velcro supplies, the vendor
> is told in no uncertain terms if the order is sent vis FedEx it
> will be the last one they get.  A gawd awful company! (:-)
> 
> FedEx problems may stem from their use of non-company
> contract drivers in their trucks ... at least in this area.
> 
> UPS is OK in our view ... all of Rose's orders are shipped via
> UPS or the USPS.
> 
> Trivia:  A case shipped to Istanbul via USPS Airmail was
> delivered in Turkey in -five- days!!
> 
> FWIW ...
> 
> 73!
> 
> Ken - K0PP
> elecraftcov...@gmail.com
> __
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Re: [Elecraft] Older option boards from K3 upgrade

[Vic Rosenthal]

The improvement in QSK performance and elimination of jitter in CW timing was 
immediately noticeable even without an a/b test. Night and day.

Vic 4X6GP 

> On 26 Apr 2017, at 0:06, Guy Olinger K2AV  wrote:
> 
> Many times, with spectrum analyzer screen prints, etc. Some of those
> in the near-astounding category.
> 
> At this point can't refer you to them but you can find them with some 
> searching.
> 
> A 3 dB improvement in TX strength will not be noticed either, until it
> is used in a situation where you're close to or in the noise.
> 
> Close neighbor hams with a sequence of installing the syns, and screen
> prints in the reduction in phase noise sidebands for each step, and
> noticeable improvement in interfering with one another. For me that
> was the killer demo.
> 
> The "news" aspect of the syns is pretty well past, so don't see much
> about it any more.
> 
> 73, Guy
> 
> 
> 
>> On Tue, Apr 25, 2017 at 4:33 PM, Wes Stewart  wrote:
>> I've seen these rave reviews about the new synthesizer many times.  Has
>> anyone actually done an A/B comparison in real time with two otherwise
>> identical radios.
>> 
>> I have a K3 with the original synthesizer (the actual one used to develop
>> the stiffener plate) and a K3S.  I have not run them side-by-side since I
>> don't have any test equipment with sufficiently low phase noise to use.
>> Anecdotally, using them one at a time in day-to-day operation, I haven't
>> noticed a difference.
>> 
>> Wes  N7WS
>> 
>> 
>>> On 4/25/2017 1:14 PM, Guy Olinger K2AV wrote:
>>> 
>>> I tossed my old synthesizers, in accordance with my dropping my old
>>> closet hoarder policy of keeping any and all for 40 years to see if it
>>> might be of any use. I actuarially doubt I will see another 40 years.
>>> 
>>> The synthesizer mod has met with such documented success, that I
>>> routinely advise someone looking for a used K3 not to bother unless
>>> the new synthesizer(s) are in it. Or to work a discount on any K3
>>> without them to offset the cost of the synthesizer(s) to be done
>>> immediately.
>>> 
>>> All this became apparent very early on after the new synthesizers were
>>> introduced.
>> 
>> 
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Re: [Elecraft] KPA1500

[Vic Rosenthal]

Here in 4X, I would not only have the 17% VAT but the absolutely insane cost to 
UPS it from California (and I wouldn't trust any other carrier).

But if you do a survey of other high-quality no-tune (both solid and 
hollow-state) amplifiers, you will find that Elecraft's pricing is quite 
reasonable. And you get the integration and good service as a bonus. I suspect 
they will do quite well with this product.

Vic 4X6GP

> On 22 Apr 2017, at 1:19, Michael Walker  wrote:
> 
> Wow..  $6K.
> 
> That will make it over $10K Canadian between the dollar exchange and the
> extra 13% tax here in VE3 land.
> 
> Mike va3mw
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Re: [Elecraft] New from Elecraft: KPA1500 amplifier with built-in ATU, separate power supply

[Vic Rosenthal]

Just as a bit of anecdotal data, I am feeding a 20m dipole with 1200 watts 
through 600-ohm open line on 40 through 10 meters. The SWR on 40 meters 
approaches 100:1 (the line is short, but I am still eating about 2.2 dB loss).

Anyway, this presents a very difficult problem for most tuners -- and if you 
try it with an unbalanced tuner plus balun, even a 5kW DXE balun gets too hot 
quickly.

My solution was to cancel the reactance by switching in external capacitance or 
inductance as needed on 'difficult' bands (40 and 30 meters) and then letting a 
commercial autotuner take it from there.

Some day I'll put the matching circuits at the antenna and get the 2.2 dB back.

Vic 4X6GP

> On 21 Apr 2017, at 22:59, GRANT YOUNGMAN  wrote:
> 
> 2.  There are many ways to bring any antenna/feedline's Z0 to something that 
> a reasonably-sized affordable auto-tuner can handle at not too great a feed 
> line SWR.  Not the least of which is to feed a commercial old fashioned 
> mechanical tuner with heavy-rated components that can handle the reflected 
> power from whatever bobbie-pin you’re trying to match without just melting 
> all the plastic in the tuner if you key down for a bit too long.
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Re: [Elecraft] [Amps] Fwd: Re: FYI Visalia Attendees

[Vic Rosenthal 4X6GP]

About time!

73,
Vic, 4X6GP
Rehovot, Israel
Formerly K2VCO
http://www.qsl.net/k2vco/

On 21 Apr 2017 00:03, Ed Muns wrote:


   Busted link.  Correction:
   [1]http://www.elecraft.com/images/visalia1.jpg
   73,
   Ed W0YK

References

   1. http://www.elecraft.com/images/visalia1.jpg

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Re: [Elecraft] Sub Receiver & KBPF3

[Vic Rosenthal]

There are two 'secrets' for working on the subrx:
1. Take off the left side panel, even though you don't need to. Makes 
reinsertion much easier.
2. When plugging in the TMP cables, get the center conductor in before pushing 
hard on the outer part. If it is placed properly, it should go in with no 
trouble.

Vic 4X6GP

> On 19 Apr 2017, at 23:17, Grant Youngman  wrote:
> 
> 
>> Messing with the sub-receiver is such a PITA that I will procrastinate
>> putting a new filter in for weeks before I gather the courage to pull it
>> apart.  
> 
> I can't see spending the money for shipping and insurance, not to mention 
> factory charges for relatively simple work, over fear of the sub receiver. 
> 
> I've had mine in and out ( and in and out and ...) a bunch over the years 
> and, while it might seem fiddly without a bit of patience and due care, never 
> had a real issue with it.  It's always seemed to drop right in.  Had it out a 
> few weeks ago for the 'n'th time to put the LF receive mods in. 
> 
> Or maybe I've just had a lot of practice ? :)
> 
> Grant NQ5T
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Re: [Elecraft] Was Amplifier - Now RF exposure limits

[Vic Rosenthal]

I did this too. They cut the carrier just long enough for me to get up above 
the base insulator. We used to joke about being complicit in radiating trashy 
music.

Vic 4X6GP

> On 8 Apr 2017, at 03:05, Fred Jensen  wrote:
> 
>> On 4/7/2017 4:05 PM, Ron D'Eau Claire wrote:
>> Remember, the microwave oven was "invented" by an engineer working around
>> magnetron RF sources and discovered the "Hershey" chocolate bar in his shirt
>> pocket had melted. When he figured out why, the "Radar Range" (first brand
>> of microwave oven) was born.
> So the story goes.  However, I believe I invented the microwave oven when I 
> discovered I could cram a hot dog into the feedhorn and it would heat up in a 
> few tens of seconds.  Sadly, Amana came along with the name "Radar Range," 
> and "cram it into the feedhorn" as a name was consumer toast.  I've also 
> noted that chocolate bars get really soft in my shirt pocket, magnetrons or 
> not.
>> One cold night in the late 1950's, working outside on a flight line of F-86D
>> fighters lined up wingtip to wingtip for preflight repairs and testing, I
>> concluded I must be catching the flu. I felt weak hot and sweaty after
>> several minutes talking with someone. We were standing in front of the
>> planes, most of which had the nose radomes removed for testing the
>> fire-control radar systems. Looking up, I noticed the radar antenna of one
>> plane across the way with someone sitting in the cockpit was pointing
>> directly at me. On a hunch, I took a few steps to one side and the antenna
>> twitched to follow me. I immediately moved completely out of the way and
>> within a short time I felt quite normal.
> Working my way thru college at the local TV station, the CE offered me $50 
> each time to climb the tower and replace the clearance lamps twice a year.  
> FAA requirement.  They sent me to climbing school at the local utility, 
> provided an approved harness, I "climbed" on a ladder inside the tower with a 
> fall arrestor hooked to a cable down the center.  $50 was big money then.  We 
> were on a ridge, I could see the Pacific after 100 ft or so, wind was 
> constant, and it was cold even in summer.  I climbed in the warmest part of 
> the day, and we were on the air of course.  The last clearance lamps were at 
> the base of the mast holding the turnstile antenna, bottom of which was about 
> 40 ft above me.  I warmed nicely doing those three lamps, and it made the 
> downhill leg a lot more comfortable.  OSHA today would have had a cow.
> 
> I use an HOA-Stealth antenna with my K3 at home, an end-fed wire along the 
> wooden fence.  I did the calcs, and at 100W, we're definitely safe.  I do 
> flash the two touch lamps in the bedroom on 80 and 160 but those things will 
> turn on if I sneeze. [:-)
> 
> The calcs are really easy on the on-line devices, I used the ARRL one.  Paste 
> the results in your station notebook and you're home free.
> 
> 73,
> 
> Fred ("Skip") K6DGW
> Sparks NV USA
> Washoe County DM09dn
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Re: [Elecraft] Was Amplifier - Now RF exposure limits

[Vic Rosenthal]

I strongly disagree. The heating effect - which is the only scientifically 
verifiable effect from RF exposure - is far smaller at HF than radar 
frequencies. Yes, you don't look into a horn antenna of an operating radar 
transmitter, but a 20 meter dipole is a different story entirely. The exposure 
limits mandated by the FCC (and by the authorities in this country too) serve 
only to cover various butts against opportunistic lawsuits. 

Vic 4X6GP

> On 7 Apr 2017, at 22:55, Gmail - George  wrote:
> 
> Ed & Brian,
> My father had severe health consequences from working in a classroom with 
> operating military radars!
> 
> Since the adoption of OET 65 in the late 90s, all licensees (including Hams) 
> have had the responsibility to insure their station is in complete 
> compliance with RF exposure limit guidelines.
> 
> Most likely during your last license renewal or application for a new 
> license, you checked a box stating you would insure compliance with 
> non-ionization radiation limits.
> Those guidelines are contained in bulletin OET 65.
> For Hams OET 65 Supplement B 
> (https://transition.fcc.gov/bureaus/oet/info/documents/bulletins/oet65/oet65b.pdf)
>  
> gives us some shortcuts to insure compliance without the tedious 
> calculations. Many of the tables were provided by ARRL & the W5YI Group.
> 
> There are also calculators available on the internet to make it quite easy. 
> Googleing "amateur radio oet 65 calculator" returned many to choose from.
> 
> The only caveat I will give is that most of the shortcuts and calculators 
> are for a single transmitting antenna at a specific location. Multiple 
> radiating antenna WILL change the protection distances - Field Day & group 
> contesting come to mind!
> 
> Use to be we had to submit OET 65 compliance statements when licensing all 
> transmitters for Broadcast Stations ranging from 150 MHz to 23 GHz. I 
> believe we finally could use just a blanket cover statement ; but it has 
> been a while since I licensed a non-Ham transmitter.
> 
> You do need to insure you are in compliance - to protect your family, 
> friends, neighbors and yourself.
> 
> 73
> George
> AI4VZ
> 
> 
> From: brian
> 
> "Considered dangerous" isn't quite right.  The jury is out of the exact
> danger levels of RF for all the various frequencies.  These distances
> are more of an accepted limit that protects you from inquiries regarding
> RF exposure.  Pointing to the distances being met helps get you off the
> hook.
> 
> People will be surprised to see how small the distances these
> calculations are-- especially at lower frequencies.
> 
> One note often overlooked. The distance is defined as the distance from
> feedpoint (usually center) of the antenna.
> 
> Also the duty cycle can be considered in the calculation.  There are
> stock duty cycles for SSB and CW given in the documentation.
> 
> Antenna gain may have to be included.
> 
> It used to be that anything at 100 watts and below at HF was exempted.
> I believe that has changed.
> 
> 73 de Brian/K3KO
> 
> 
> 
>> On 4/7/2017 16:06 PM, Edward R Cole wrote:
>> In the USAmerica ham's now have the *responsibility* of determining the
>> safe operating zones for each antenna per FCC regulation.  I doubt many
>> ever do the calculation.  Fortunately Australian ham Doug MacArthur (sk)
>> VK3UM (a well known eme'r) has written a program which you can download
>> for free.  I will simulate the emf fields base on your input data like
>> antenna, power, height, band and produces the legal exclusion zones
>> where RF exposure is considered dangerous.
>> 
>> http://www.vk3um.com/emr%20calculator.html
>> 
>> Its not hard to use and provides some interesting if not surprising info
>> about your station safety.
>> 
>> As I already stated, it is the legal requirement for all US hams to have
>> evaluated safe range for humans before operating.
>> 
>> Eg:  half-wave dipole, 1400w, line loss 0.5 dB, 14.2 MHz: exclusion =
>> 3.06m radially; safe height 2.60m for FCC.  Also provides ARPNSA and CEU
>> radiation limits.
>> 
>> 73, Ed - KL7uW
> 
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Re: [Elecraft] Amplifier

[Vic Rosenthal]

Hmm, I am running 1.2+ kW to a dipole on the roof about 20 feet above my K3, 
which has no RF problems though other devices in my shack do!

Vic 4X6GP

> On 6 Apr 2017, at 19:28, Dennis Watkins  wrote:
> 
> I would suggest that a redesign on the K2/K3s would be a starting point.  The 
> cheesy connectors on the back of the k3 will not stand up to a strong field  
> from a 1.5kw amp with the tower  mounted to the house. To much leakage for me.
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Re: [Elecraft] [OT] Morse is back!!

[Vic Rosenthal 4X6GP]

And it even does SO2R.

73,
Vic, 4X6GP
Rehovot, Israel
Formerly K2VCO
http://www.qsl.net/k2vco/

On 1 Apr 2017 20:17, Doug Turnbull wrote:

Dear OMs and YLs,
 We CW ops will be happy with this piece; Morse is back:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1KhZKNZO8mQ



73 Doug EI2CN


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Re: [Elecraft] K2 main encoder wanted

[Vic Rosenthal 4X6GP]

Are you certain that a bit of fiber from the felt washer hasn't worked 
its way between the shaft and the bushing? That is a known problem.


73,
Vic, 4X6GP
Rehovot, Israel
Formerly K2VCO
http://www.qsl.net/k2vco/

On 23 Mar 2017 11:41, Bob G3PJT wrote:

Hi Don

Thanks for the reply. I did know about the new encoder kit but the 
problem is that of its cost when it gets here.


Elecraft quote 124USD for the kit, that's £100 here which then gets 
VAT at 20% and a local handling charge - say a total of £130-140 and 
as well if I read things correctly I will need to get a new knob.


So you can see that my problem is that unless I can get a cheaper 
replacement I might as well sell the K2/100 either in bits for spares 
or at a discount.


The encoder does work fine but it has suffered a knock which has made 
it slightly stiff to turn, i.e it wont 'spin', but it is useable.


So thanks for the thoughts

73 Bob G3PJT






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Re: [Elecraft] K1 Front Panel Assembly: Potentiometer shaft doesn't fit

[Vic Rosenthal]

Of course a rat tail file or tapered reamer is the usual way, but I bought a 
deburring tool at the hardware store. It's a tiny crescent-shaped knife with a 
handle that you put into a hole and rotate. You can hold it at an angle to 
remove burrs from drilling, or straight to enlarge a hole slightly. It can be 
used on straight edges after sawing, too. It takes a very small bite and does a 
neat job.

Vic 4X6GP

> On 16 Mar 2017, at 07:57, Brian Moran via Elecraft  
> wrote:
> 
> I'm in the middle of assembling a K1, and have gotten to the front panel 
> final assembly. 
> The Potentiometer (type labeled 1-2-3) that I have has a threaded shaft that 
> is too large of diameter to fit the K1's front panel. What's the best way to 
> enlarge the hole to preserve the nice new paint?Or is there something else 
> that I'm missing?  I have Googled for this, however nothing in the first page 
> of results seems to mention this issue.Thanks,
> Brian N9ADG
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Re: [Elecraft] A question on the P3 or actually the Tx Mon

[Vic Rosenthal]

This is one of my pet peeves with the W2 -- it does not have an option for 
delivered power. Yes, I know how to subtract, but it's beyond trivial to do 
this in the software, and it would be convenient.

Vic 4X6GP

> On 6 Mar 2017, at 05:32, Alan Bloom  wrote:
> 
> The P3 shows total forward power.  The power delivered to the feedline is 
> forward minus reflected.
> 
> With a 13:1 SWR, 73.5% of the power is reflected and 26.5% is transmitted.  
> If the transmitted power is 92 watts then the total forward power should be 
> 347 watts.
> 
> Alan N1AL
> 
> 
>> On 03/05/2017 06:58 PM, Grady Harper via Elecraft wrote:
>> I placed the DCHF-200 after my antenna tuner.  In other words, the
>> DCHF-200 is between my tuner and antenna.  When relying on my tuner
>> to match the antenna to the radio My power meter (on the P3) is
>> showing an SWR of a little over 13:1 (which is about right) .  My
>> meter on my tuner is showing about 92 watts of power headed down the
>> antenna,but the meter on the P3 is showing over 200 watts.  My
>> intended output being 100 watts.  Does the DCHF-200 show out-going
>> pwr + reflected pwr?  The tuner matches the antenna to the radio, and
>> the tuner meter shows a very very small amt. of reflected power. I
>> put the DCHF-200 at this location, because if I had the tuner
>> installed in the radio, this is where it would go.
>> 
>> The antenna is a fan dipole trimmed for 40 meters and 20 meters.  I
>> am on  3.810 MHz and without the tuner the SWR is about 13.2:1 here.
>> The tuner matches the antenna to the radio with a SWR of very close
>> to 1.0:1. .
>> 
>> AJ4YA Grady
>> 
>> Thanks.
>> 
>> Sent from my iPad
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Re: [Elecraft] FW: Using your tower as a vertical - 160 or 80

[Vic Rosenthal 4X6GP]

Regarding using a tower as a vertical:

Some years ago I had a 50-foot mast with a tribander on it next to my 
house. I ran two wires out my window, one down to the base of the mast 
and one to a point on it that produced a reasonable SWR on 80 meters. 
The rotor cable and feedline for the beam ran down to the ground, and 
then back up to the shack. No ferrites or anything on the feedline. I 
wrapped the rotor cable around a ferrite rod at the rotor controller. I 
had a system of 16 radials, each about 20' long, and in a half-circle.


I ran about 600 watts to this arrangement and didn't notice RF issues in 
the shack. It worked surprisingly well, producing contacts from here 
into the US as far west as Illinois.


73,
Vic, 4X6GP
Rehovot, Israel
Formerly K2VCO
http://www.qsl.net/k2vco/

On 2 Mar 2017 05:21, Erik Basilier wrote:

Hi Alan,

Your link didn't work for me, but I assume your article describes how to
make a good bandpass filter. I do in fact recall seeing such an article in
QST years ago. Assuming that you were just pointing out that I can put a
bandpass filter on each feedline, as is common practice in SO2R operations,
I need to state my case in more detail:

Since I have second antenna covering 20-15-10 (a vertical), I started out
doing just that: putting a bandpass filter on each. I was in a hurry and
bought the LBS commercial filters rather than building based on the old
article. The antennas are close together, and even after I upgraded so as to
have two K3 radios, I was unhappy with the isolation with one K3
transmitting on 40 on the beam and the other K3 receiving on 20 on the
vertical. Just out of curiosity I plan to dig deeper into this situation, as
I think somewhat better results could be achieved. However, seeing the big
difference in performance on a given band between the vertical and the beam,
I really wanted both radios to have a beam. That is where I decided to get
the multiplexer (a model that includes 40m). Performance wise, this was
going to be like having one multiband beam, including 40m, for each radio.
Much better than using the vertical for one radio, assuming of course that
the physical sharing of one beam would aggravate the interference situation
I had when using separate antennas and bandpass filters. With the
multiplexer, per manufacturer's recommendation, each band still uses its
separate bandpass filter, so that total attenuation between bands is much
greater than what can be expected with bandpass filters alone. Still, I was
apprehensive of a possible increase in interference. The outcome was nothing
short of stunning: No interference at all. I see a possiblity that I could
have somehow reduced the interference experienced with separate antennas and
using bandpass filters, but I can't see that approach competing with the
superior results using a single antenna + multiplexer + bandpass filters.
The QST review backs up my assumption that the great results with that
configuration was no fluke. Of course, I cannot include 80m in the same
approach as long as I don't have a single antenna that includes that band
(and I can't quickly get a multiplexer that includes all 5 bands). So, for
80 I will have a separate feedline and just a bandpass filter. BTW I am very
happy to not have yielded to the temptation to upgrade my beam to a Steppir,
as the multiplexer approach requires the antenna to be tuned simultaneously
to multiple bands, not to tune to one band at a time.

If I had been able to achieve really good isolation with just a bandpass
filter for each band, your approach with an 80m antenna that also covers 40
would make good sense to my situation. As it is, keeping 40m within the
beam, even with no gain over running 40m on the second antenna, makes sense
as it allows me to route 40m not just through the bandpass filter, but also
through the multiplexer. Since I already tried an 80m inverted vee on the
tower, and it ruined the 40m performance of the beam, I am looking for other
approaches for 80m. It might be possible to change the beam to bring it back
to resonance on 40, but this particular beam is a complicated design
already. A sloper is one possiblity, but it is not likely to be my first
attempt, as it would be close to the beam and it would be somewhat similar
to the vee. At this point I am leaning toward either a separate shortened
vertical such as a Butternut model for 80 and 40 (not likely to use the 40
part) or using the tower itself as a vertical. For the latter approach I
would need to prevent the tower's feedline bundle (the part going into the
house) from forming part of the radiating element. I remember an old Antenna
Book discussing methods of feeding the tower as a vertical, but the author
seemed to ignore the issue of the cables coming off the tower. Maybe it was
assumed that the cables would be disconnected at the bulkhead whenever the
tower would be used as a vertical.  Nobody has replied to me about
experiences dealing with that issue. Also as 

Re: [Elecraft] Elecraft QSK

[Vic Rosenthal 4X6GP]

No, the real question is why doesn't Elecraft make a KPA1500!

I agree about the Alpha PIN diodes. I had an Alpha 86 for a few years, 
and never had any trouble with the PIN diodes -- and I made plenty of 
'antenna mistakes'. I sold it because I was tired of waiting the 90 
seconds for it to warm up, and I believed that Elecraft was about to 
release the KPA800 and 1500.


I suspect some of the PIN diode failures were due to static discharges. 
I had ICE antenna protectors that provided a good DC path to ground and 
a good lightning ground system. Or else I was lucky.


73,
Vic, 4X6GP
Rehovot, Israel
Formerly K2VCO
http://www.qsl.net/k2vco/

On 1 Mar 2017 01:14, wb6r...@mac.com wrote:

The Elecraft KPA500 silent QSK is achieved without expensive PIN
diodes but rather with relatively inexpensive switching diodes. I’ll
guess that the 1500 watt Elecraft prototype amp of some years ago
used a similar inexpensive, silent design.

Avoiding QSK should be because of operator preference not because of
fear of relay failure. In the case of operating non-QSK, it’s vital
for the operator to keep calls short and not be caught in a cycle of
doubling with the DX that’s heard all too often.

My Alpha 87A of 17 years or so has never had a PIN diode failure.
When the 87A was first introduced there were indeed PIN diode
failures. This was attributed to a bad batch (or batches?) of PIN
diodes. Subsequent runs of 87A's ceased to exhibit PIN diode
failures. Yet the urban legend persists that 87A’s should be avoided
because of the PIN diodes - which are expensive to replace.

The real question is why amplifier manufacturers continue to use
vacuum relays when inexpensive switching diodes can do the job. Thank
you Elecraft.

73 - Steve WB6RSE

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Re: [Elecraft] Vacuum Relays and 30 WPM QSK

[Vic Rosenthal]

I just had to replace one in my TL922 after about 5 years. I'm not a contester, 
but sometimes I bang away in pileups for a while. I have finally taught myself 
not to use QSK unless I need it. Setting the delay in the K3 to just enough to 
keep the relays closed between CW elements is almost as good but saves a lot of 
operations.
When the pileup is fast enough that I want QSK, it's a button press away.
-- 
Vic 4X6GP

On February 28, 2017 6:28:06 AM GMT+02:00, Jim Brown 
 wrote:
>On Sun,2/26/2017 3:04 PM, Guy Olinger K2AV wrote:
>> But even though the K3 is cycling TX/RX very fast the 8410 is not
>banging
>> the vacuum relay to death trying to follow 30 wpm dits. 30 wpm
>QSK*does*
>> significantly shorten relay time to failure. Contesting, I've worn
>some out
>> in less than a year.
>
>I own three very nice vintage Ten Tec amps that use vacuum relays. All 
>of them came to me used, and I've replaced those relays in each amp at 
>least once. After a few rounds of that, I stopped running QSK with
>those 
>amps. :) I'd like to hear from others having experience with vacuum 
>relays and QSK at contesting speeds. I mostly work between 28 and 32 
>WPM. The original equipment relays were Jennings, and I've mostly used 
>Gigavac as replacements. I haven't had to replace one since giving up
>on 
>QSK about 8 years ago, but I really would like to run QSK. Have I made 
>the right decision to avoid it when running with a vacuum relay?
>
>73, Jim K9YC
>
>
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